Do-it-yourself sawmill from a chainsaw how to do it quickly and easily. Homemade sawmill and circular saw from an electric saw Do-it-yourself sawmill from a chain saw

Having your own sawmill is a profitable business, as wood is one of the most sought after building materials. You can acquire such equipment by buying it ready-made or by building it yourself. The choice of option depends entirely on how many cubic meters wood will be processed regularly. Experts recommend that you first familiarize yourself with the types of saws. The purchase of a finished product will help save time, and the manufactured one will fully meet the requirements of the owner.

Types of frame units

It is recommended to pay attention to the sawmill from the electric saw, in which the frame is the base. Typical factory-made products are expensive and are considered professional equipment with rich features and a high level of performance. The finished tool can pay off after a few months. It is necessary in the presence of a large amount of forest. In other cases, it is advisable to purchase or independently manufacture a sawmill from a small electric saw.

The equipment intended for sawing up of wood is presented in wide assortment. Most of them are too expensive for a typical suburban economy, and the processing volumes are focused on the scale of industrial enterprises and reach several thousand cubic meters per day. Experts distinguish 3 types of such devices:

disk;
tape;
tire.

Circular saws are the most common in the household. Among their disadvantages, there is an increased amount of waste in comparison with tape counterparts and the high cost of high-quality discs. Band saws are recognized as one of the most profitable options. They are unpretentious to weather conditions and produce a small amount of waste. It is recommended to use them with a tree whose diameter does not exceed 70 mm. The design of the device complicates the process of reproducing it with your own hands.

Tire sawmills are in great demand among hobbyists. They are capable of processing large volumes of wood. A do-it-yourself tire sawmill can be made more easily and quickly compared to analogues.

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Specifications

Factory-made devices have their own characteristics that affect the price. The electric saw ПЦМ-1Э (380 V) has small dimensions, copes well with the processing of wood with a diameter of no more than 60 cm and a length of no more than 9.5 m. It is equipped with a three-phase electric motor, the power of which reaches 5.5-7.5 kW.

Equipment PCM-3B (Stihl MS 660) small size it is able to process logs with a diameter of up to 60 cm and a length of up to 9 m. In a professional model, the engine power reaches 5.2 kW. The unit copes with the processing of 6 cubic meters of wood during an 8-hour shift.

The sawmill disk "Taiga DP-1" easily processes wood with a diameter of no more than 90 cm and a length of up to 7 m. It is capable of producing several types of wood products, equipped with an electric motor with a power of 11 kW. It produces up to 10 cubic meters of wood in an 8-hour shift. Band sawmill "Wood-Mizer LT-15" processes wood with a diameter of up to 70 cm, the length of the logs is not limited, and the weight can reach 2 tons. It is presented in two trim levels - with an 11 kW electric motor and an 18 hp gasoline engine.

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Self-manufacturing

To make a sawmill with your own hands, you will need to create a plan. Manufacturing process carried out independently if the sawmill will be used irregularly and there are certain materials (metal profiles, engine).

A sawmill made from an electric saw of its own production has more modest performance than its factory counterpart. homemade device used for the production of beams and boards. You must first determine:

the length and diameter of the logs to be processed;
unit performance;
motor - gasoline or electric;
installation location.

As an engine, you can adapt the carriage for a semi-professional chainsaw. Experts say that household chainsaws and electric chain saws will not work, since their motors are not designed to perform such actions (lack of the necessary power).

The bed, base or frame must be sufficiently stable and reliable, since the safety of the master and the quality of the equipment work depend on this. The length of the frame is determined by the length of the wood to be processed. Guides can be made from pipes, angles, U-shaped profiles. The thickness of the metal is selected taking into account the weight of the processed wood. For a carriage with a saw, metal of 3-4 mm is required. It will be able to support the weight of the armature and the engine.

The choice of disc or tire depends on the type of device being manufactured. Their length reaches 40-50 cm. You can reduce the amount of waste if you use chains with a small cut thickness and a special type of tire. The sharpening angle of the chain should be 10°. Experts recommend making a device for attaching round timber in the form of a low stationary unit.

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Step-by-step instruction

To make a sawmill for cutting with a disk, you will need to place the carriage at the top of the structure. Guides made from a 50 mm corner should be 5 m long. If the equipment is stationary, then holes will need to be drilled in concrete and in the corner in 15 cm increments. The structure is attached to the floor with dowels.

A device for fixing a log can be made from a channel or a U-shaped profile. The edges must be welded to the corner. Additionally, it is required to make holes for the bolts so that the log is fixed in the profile. The thickness of the processed logs will not exceed 40 cm, therefore 10, 15 and 20 cm are measured from the center of the profile. Holes for the stops will be located at these points. A more secure fixation can be achieved by installing a movable latch with teeth on the first and last profiles. The latch is made of a metal sheet 4 mm thick. The teeth are sawn with a grinder. It is required to make additional holes in the profile and the latch so that the last unit can be easily dismantled and installed back.

The next step involves the manufacture of the carriage. The design must be reliable, considering a three-phase motor with a power of 3 kW. The height of the product should be 1-1.2 m. It is necessary to mark a corner 4 mm thick and 40 mm long. Then you need to cut the elements. The design of the carriage is welded and requires the connection of parts. At the ends of its corners, holes are made for the wheels.

Next is the installation of the engine with the disk. It is desirable that its height can be adjusted, and the device can work in two positions - vertical and horizontal. You can adjust the unit in height using two pipes, which are recommended to be welded to the carriage frame.

At the next stage, you will need 2 channels welded to each other and a sheet of metal 6 mm thick. The channel is attached to the pipes using U-shaped clamps with a diameter of 10 mm. At its ends, you will need to weld pieces of metal with holes for clamps, which must simultaneously sit tightly on the pipe and, if necessary, slide along it. It is desirable to adjust the height using 2 threaded rods. From above, in the profile of the carriage, it is necessary to make holes for the bars.

A nut is welded to the ends of the profile on which the motor is located, into which it is necessary to screw the rod and weld the sprocket from the bicycle. On both sides, 2 threaded rods and asterisks are formed. Between them, 2 large sprockets from the bicycle are installed, which will have to be tightly connected. As they rotate, the motor will rise or fall.

By creating conditions for turning the motor both horizontally and vertically, it is possible to achieve rotation of the disk in 2 positions. The frame is assembled based on the dimensions of the disk and the engine and is welded to the movable profile. It is necessary to attach 2 bearings, make 4 holes in the steel sheet. They are necessary for mounting the electric motor, to which 2 metal rods will need to be welded, focusing on the diameter of the bearings. Then the structure is firmly attached to the frame. On the back side there will be a handle with stops. The protective casing is made of stainless steel and fastened with self-tapping screws to the frame with the motor. A control panel with "Start" and "Stop" buttons is connected to a fixed engine with a disk.

Tools

An electric saw is an indispensable tool for suburban area either in personal home. She simply copes with cutting thick branches, boards and different material from wood. Even the most reliable tool has its own degree of wear, sometimes it is necessary to fix small or large breakdowns. Electric saw repair their hands is possible only in certain cases and in the presence of certain abilities and equipment. Often the tool has to be given to the service. But there are some breakdowns that are simply fixed without the help of others.

Overview of the design of the chain saw

In order to master the ability to repair power saws, you need to be aware of their design. The main element that cuts the material is the saw chain, which is driven by a motor. The chain itself is a combination of cutting links, which are fastened together by hinges. The movement of the chain is done on a plate, which is called a tire. Do-it-yourself power saw from a grinder. This part is made of steel. of the highest quality, which is not subject to chips, scratches and corrosion - this is the main indicator of the property of the tool. Tires are distinguished by design:

welded;
one-piece with a removable tip;
one-piece with a tip made of carbide materials.

A welded tire is something similar to a "sandwich", which is welded from 3 constituent parts in one, with all this, a driven sprocket is riveted into the structure. One-piece design with interchangeable tip - 1 sheet product, normal for long instruments. In such a tire, the main load falls on the roller bearing of the driven sprocket. One-piece configuration reduces friction losses by 8-10%. If a tool with a solid bar made of carbide materials, then it is normally suitable for working with the highest load, also for operation in conditions of the presence of a huge amount of sand, dust and dirt.

1. CHAIN ELECTRIC SAW FROM THE BULGARIAN OWN HANDS. When working with an electric saw of any configuration, you need to keep in mind the possibility of a “kickback” appearance. throwing the tool towards the person performing the work. This situation occurs if the very end of the saw bar rests against the material being processed. To avoid injury in such a situation, manufacturers equip saws with an automatic chain brake.

Overview of possible malfunctions of electric saws

If the saw does not cut, need to check availability of power, integrity of wires and connections.
If everything is in order in the power supply, you need to check the chain brake, which blocks the operation of the tool. To eliminate this problem, you need to move the brake shield to another position.
If the measures described above did not turn on the saw, then need to check cable and plug integrity.
If the power of the saw has decreased, the performance has fallen, you need to change the carbon brushes, which, apparently, have worn out.
Quite often, the chain begins to stop not immediately, but after a certain amount of time. The longer the saw is operated, the larger this time gap becomes. To get rid of this task, you need to change the saw brake band, which has worn out over time.
Often in the work of the saw there is a nasty, ear-cutting sound. Such a sound often occurs due to a lack of oil in the mechanism or due to contamination of the grooves that conduct it. A chain saw is a saw How to make a bird feeder with your own hands. It's easy to fix the problem - fill in the oil and clean the furrows.
It is important to use only original spare parts that are recommended by the manufacturer. Using spare parts from other companies often results in tool breakage or unsafe situations.
If there is damage to the case, then for the sake of your safety, the saw must be handed over for repair.
Do not replace the cutting parts of the tool that are not recommended by the manufacturer or do not fit the design.

CHAIN ELECTRIC SAW FROM BULGARIAN WITH YOUR OWN HANDS

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Homemade electric chain saw

Homemade removable adapter for grinder, turning it into chain saw.

Electric saw sharpening

One of the elements of the saw that you need to monitor yourself is the chain. Chain saw 2 years of operation, is it worth repairing an apartment with your own hands. It must be sharpened prophylactically, since in case of delay with this process, repair chain saw it will be impossible to do it by hand. It must be given to the service, where sharpening will be done on professional machines.

Some rules for working with electric saws

Chain saws are designed to operate at maximum speed, and should always be run at wide open throttle to increase productivity.
You should not cut at a right angle away from you, you should hold the saw at a slight angle from the body.
It is necessary to adhere to the instructions for repairing the electric saw, as well as purchase only those spare parts that which are recommended by the manufacturer.
Before transporting the saw, it is necessary to turn off the engine, keep the bar with the chain behind you when carrying, it is necessary to pack the saw in a casing before transportation.
Do not operate the saw above shoulder height as this increases the risk of an accident.
If the saw is stuck in the material, then it must be removed from there very carefully. The buoyant force acting on the saw increases when the upper part is clamped, which is quite dangerous for the operator.
When working with a log framed by thin branches, one should act very carefully, since in some cases thin material is clamped by a tire and leans back towards the person doing the work.
It is strictly forbidden to use a defective, misadjusted or incompletely assembled instrument.
Before starting work, it is necessary to check the operation of the saw switch.
It is necessary to constantly monitor the tension of the chain, because if it is poorly tensioned, then the risk of it jumping off the guides increases, this leads not only to injuries, but also to damage to the device.
Repair of Partner power saws, like any other saws, is recommended to be carried out in a specialized service center, since self-repair leads to serious problems in the future.

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A circular electric saw is a very useful thing in any household; in terms of the degree of need, it is perhaps in second place after an electric drill. If you have to use a saw and not very often, nevertheless, with the slightest possibility of manufacturing parts, I recommend getting such a machine. The saw of the proposed design can be equipped not only with a saw blade with a diameter of up to 200 mm, but also with cutting and grinding wheels, a milling cutter and a universal woodworking head.

The main components of the electric saw in the proposed version have undergone significant structural changes associated with strengthening the structure and changing the layout: the unit is frameless (Fig. 1). Unlike the prototype, this design of the saw provides not only sawing wood, but also planing and milling, as well as tool sharpening and metal cutting.

The basis of this design is the electric motor from washing machine, for example, type DAO-A. The advantage of this electric motor is exceptional reliability, and given that it works in an electric saw in more favorable conditions, it makes direct sense to ensure its operation in a more forced mode by replacing the starting relay with a capacitor starting system, which will be discussed below.

The base of the saw is sawn from plywood or board at least 20 mm thick with dimensions of 300 x 500 mm. The electric motor is fixed to the base with Mb screws with a conical head using corners 50 x 50 mm in size and 140 mm long, attached to the electric motor by its own standard coupling bolts so that the horizontal shelves of the corners are directed outward from the engine.

In a similar way, an underframe is attached to the upper part of the electric motor, made of plywood with a thickness of at least 15 mm and having approximately the same dimensions in plan as the base (Fig. 2). The holes in the squares, which serve for their fastening to the engine, in order to ensure the tension of the belt drive, are made of an oblong shape. Instead of the regular nuts of the upper coupling bolts of the engine, a steel bar measuring 120 x 20 x 4 mm with M8 threaded holes into which the bolts are screwed is installed. The underframe and the base in the zone opposite to the engine are connected by spacers made of a metal bar with a diameter of 15 mm.

The ball bearings of the shaft, on which the saw blade and the belt drive pulley are mounted, are installed in the bearing assembly housing. With regard to the manufacture of the bearing unit housing, shaft and parts used to secure saw blade(Fig. 3), it is advisable to entrust their manufacture to a qualified turner, since not only the safety and reliability of the machine in operation, but also the quality of woodworking largely depend on the quality of these parts.

The housing of the bearing assembly is machined from steel 20, it is designed for the installation of type 203 bearings, which can, for example, be taken from the water pump of Moskvich 402-408 cars or purchased at a car dealership. It is desirable to make the spindle shaft and the fastening parts of the saw blade from a higher quality steel, for example, from steel 45. The dimensions of the fastening parts of the saw blade make it possible to install disks with an inner hole diameter of both 32 mm and 50 mm.

The housing of the bearing assembly is welded to a steel square measuring 75 x 75 mm with a wall thickness of 5-6 mm, a length of 82 mm, with which the bearing assembly is fixed to the underframe with Mb screws with conical heads. The threaded holes for attaching it to the underframe should be drilled prior to welding using a template with which holes are subsequently drilled into the underframe. Bearing seats are rubbed with chalk before welding to avoid welding splashes of metal. It should be noted that all subsequent holes in the parts to be joined are recommended to be drilled together during the rough pre-assembly process, including cutting a hole in the underframe, which serves to install a cutting tool, the approximate size of which is 200 x 30 mm.

The desktop is made of duralumin 4-5 mm thick or textolite, vinyl plastic or duralumin 8-10 mm thick. For the passage of the saw blade in the table, a slot is made about 10 mm wide. This can be done later, in the process of checking the operation of the machine. A boss is screwed to the end part of the underframe, to which halves of detachable card cards are attached with M5 screws. door hinges 90-100 mm long (right and left), which include reciprocal halves of loops with pins, fastened to the desktop with M5 screws with a conical head. Reciprocal halves to ensure the orientation of countersinks in the hinge plates with fastener heads are interchanged: the right half is joined to the left, and the left to the right counterpart.

In the opposite part of the table there is a support-lifting device that provides smooth adjustment lifting of the edge of the table relative to the underframe and, accordingly, the required amount of exit of the edges of the cutting tool relative to the surface of the table. At the first stage of manufacturing the machine, generally speaking, you can do without a lifting device by fixing the table on the underframe and adjusting the table rise by setting washers.
Before pressing the bearings into the housing, they must be lubricated with LITOL-24 grease. When using bearings with other dimensions, the dimensional chains of the bearing housing must be corrected. It is desirable to use nuts ready-made. The driven pulley can be adapted from an old washing machine or machined from aluminum alloy.

The drive belt must be approximately 600 mm long, otherwise it will not be possible to use a cutting tool with a diameter of 200 mm or more:1 Some washing machines are equipped with such belts. In combination with a cutting tool with a small diameter, of course, shorter belt lengths can also be used.

The regular circuit for switching on the electric motor of the saw is shown in fig. 4. The starting relay type RTK-S is fixed near the motor so that the arrow on its body is oriented vertically upwards - otherwise the relay will not work correctly. Practice shows that it is more expedient to use a capacitor starting system (Fig. 5), since it is noted that in the presence of a working capacitor, the engine torque is noticeably greater.

The capacitor start system does not require the use of a start relay. Automatic shutdown of the starting capacitor is carried out using a modified two key switch. The "Start" key (Fig. 6) is supplied with an elastic element - a piece of foam rubber or sponge rubber measuring 5 x 10 x 20 mm, which ensures the return of the key to its original state. The flag attached to this key provides automatic operation of the second section of the switch S2, which supplies power to the electric motor.

The electric motor is started by pressing the "Start" key for the time during which the electric motor will reach its operating speed. After the pressure is removed, the “Start” key returns to its original state with an elastic element, opening the contacts SI, which turn off the starting capacitors, while the “Stop” key remains on, closing the contacts S2. Stopping the motor is done by pressing the "Stop" button. When using a capacitor start system, it is necessary to install a fuse for a current of about 6A.

To adjust the belt tension, the nuts of the tie rods are released and the underframe is displaced relative to the engine, after which the nuts are tightened again. It should be borne in mind that during intensive use of an electric saw equipped with a capacitor start engine system, the regular transmission belt may turn out to be the weakest link in the machine. In this case, a double belt drive can be used.

When using the standard system for starting the electric motor, it is also advisable to connect the capacitor Cp to the outputs of the starting relay "O" and "P", as shown by the dotted line in Fig. 4, although the starting relay monitors the moment of current increase quite clearly, not allowing the electric motor to develop significantly more power.

The details of the electric motor starting system are mounted on a metal shield bent in place in a z-shaped manner, which serves to protect the electric motor from sawdust. The shield is made of galvanized roofing steel and fastened with M8 nuts to the protruding ends of the lower coupling bolts of the electric motor at a distance of about 35 mm from it and screwed to the base with screws. A key switch is attached to the front surface of the shield, and capacitors are mounted on the back side.

A guide is attached to the table with Mb bolts, made of a duralumin corner measuring 50 x 50 mm and 600 mm long, in which a family of holes with a diameter of 6 mm is drilled, allowing the guide to be fixed to the table parallel to the saw blade at the required distance. It is desirable to install steel threaded bushings in the table.

At the base of the saw, a trapezoidal slot is made with dimensions: At the base of the trapezoid 70 and 30 mm, the height of the trapezoid is 150 mm. The slot is used to dump sawdust from under the disk into a storage plastic bag, which is put on the neck made under the slot, and fixed on it with twine or elastic. Sawdust is useful as mulch in gardening, as well as bedding for cages of small animals, such as hamsters. Of course, for keeping animals, sawdust from chipboard, etc. use is not allowed.

During operation, the electric saw is installed on a massive stand made of hardwood boards, such as birch, with a thickness of at least 25 mm. Inside the stand, near the corners of the box, bosses measuring 40 x 40 x 40 mm are placed, on which the base of the machine rests. The stand serves as a case for storing the saw, for which the saw is turned upside down and placed on the same bosses, but it can also be used as a bin for collecting sawdust, as it is equipped with a bottom.

The design of the spindle assembly allows the installation of a wide range of various cutting and grinding tools. Speaking about the selection of saw blades, we can recommend that you first purchase a rip saw blade with a thickness of 1.6 mm, a diameter of 200 mm and 48 teeth. Generally speaking, the power of the saw motor is not very significant, so do not try to fit saw blades of large diameter and thickness; do not purchase discs designed for cross cutting: if a rip saw cuts quite satisfactorily across the fibers, then when you try to cut longitudinally with a cross saw, you will suffer pretty much.

It should be borne in mind that when sawing significant volumes of chipboard, a conventional steel saw blade "sits down" very quickly due to the presence of various hard inclusions in the material. Therefore, if you need to cut significant amounts of chipboard, I advise you to get a saw blade with cutting edges equipped with carbide inserts.

Quarters are most productive to choose a cutter with an outer diameter of 125 mm, with a bore of 32 mm. It is extremely useful to get a cutting disc for metal with a thickness of 3 mm, with a bore diameter of 32 mm, and an outer diameter of up to 200 mm, although using centering washers it is also possible to install discs with a bore diameter of 22 mm. In this case, cutting metal and profiles will not be any problem for you. When using a cutter or cutting disc the hole in the desktop may need to be enlarged a bit.

Drawings of the parts that secure the universal woodworking head (UDG) on the spindle are shown in fig. 7. By the way, I was forced to pay for the costs associated with the purchase of UDG and the manufacture of installation parts due to the fact that the electric planer "Rebir" type I-5709 made in Latvia broke down literally after 4 hours of relatively unstressed work - the anchor of the electric motor burned out. Judging by the fact that spare anchors instantly disappear from the shelves, I realized that the reliability of this planer is extremely low and a more reliable tool should be acquired. I note that in the case of using UDG, it will be necessary to make a special desktop, since the passage of cutters fixed in the head requires a hole width of 55 mm. Cutters for UDG can be made from commercially available planer knives by processing them on a cut-off and emery wheel on the same machine.

Before starting sawing, in order to avoid damage to the saw teeth, it is necessary to carefully inspect the workpiece for the absence of nails and other inclusions. This rule should be especially strictly observed when processing wood that has been in use. If metal inclusions are found, they should be removed. If the engine stops due to overload during sawing, the saw must be switched off immediately, the cause of the overload removed and switched on again. The reason for the frequent repetition of such situations may be the blunting of the cutting edges of the saw blade. In this case, you should use a personal or “velvet” file of a semicircular or diamond-shaped section and sharpen the cutting edges, which can be done without removing the disk from the machine. After this procedure, the saw will work again, like a "beast". Along the way, I note the need to control the divorce of the cutting edges of the saw teeth, which should be approximately 0.6-0.8 mm. Without a divorce, the saw does not like to cut! You should also periodically clean the contacts of the keyboardist.

When cutting the edges of unedged boards, in order to obtain even edges on the board, it is first necessary to “beat off” the line with a hemp or cotton cord rubbed with charcoal or chalk. It would be nice to get an auxiliary support roller, which can be taken from the squeezing device of the washing machine, fixing it on a stand of the appropriate height.

By raising the working table, you can install an abrasive stone and use the machine to sharpen the tool. A plywood disc with a diameter of up to 250 mm with a glued skin (“button accordion”) will allow you to grind parts. A polished wheel, which is a package of round fabric blanks sandwiched between two discs, will facilitate the process of polishing metal and plastic parts with polishing paste.

Cutting and fastening tools are very convenient to store in metal can with a diameter of 300 mm from under the film. A piece of cloth soaked in oil is placed at the bottom of the jar, the saws are stacked (it is advisable to separate them with cardboard spacers), wrapped with the ends of the cloth and the jar is closed with a lid. Now the instrument is not afraid of corrosion. An eyelet can be attached to the box, allowing you to hang the box on the wall.

When working on the machine, follow the safety rules: be sure to use safety glasses, work in gloves or mittens. Remember that new fingers never grow back to replace those cut off, and it is still very difficult to engraft the cut off, despite the tremendous advances in medical science.
I wish you success in your work!

Along with such labor-intensive work as cultivating the land on an individual plot, the rural worker also has to solve another important task - the preparation of firewood for furnace heating. And they require a lot - an average of 8-9 m3, sawn into logs according to the size of the firebox and chopped into logs. It's, frankly, tedious. Even when working together, and not with a one-handed saw, but with a two-handed saw, it takes more than one weekend of the warm season.

I propose the design of a home-made electric saw, made on the basis of a powerful drill and a standard saw unit. I used a 220V, 340W single-phase electric drill with a spindle speed of 295 rpm. The shield of the chainsaw shank is rigidly fixed on the neck of the tool with screws (any one is suitable - from the Druzhba or Ural saw), the chain drive sprocket is put on a drill shank shortened to 50 mm? 20 mm with slots machined under it and cottered. The taper shank of the drill is driven into the hole of the drill shaft and also cottered, after which the saw chain is thrown over the sprocket and pulled.

When assembled, the electric drill is fixed horizontally on a pivot shaft mounted in end plain bearings.

The entire structure of the saw is mounted on light metal (from any pipes? 32 mm) goats, through a channel platform (W-10, L = 790 mm). Three support brackets (legs) are welded perpendicular to the site, and timber is laid on them for sawing. In addition to the channel, vertical stops prepared from a steel corner 40X40X5 mm are attached by welding, to which the sawn log is pressed. So that the round timber laid under the saw does not start to rotate under the action of a moving chain, a cap clamp is provided in the form of a cable clamp with a pressure pedal at the lower end.

The electric saw-drill proved to be very convenient in work. It is almost silent, weighs only 12 kg, has a very high performance, economical. For example, in 1 hour you can cut 2.5 m3 of logs into logs 30 cm long, and the electricity consumption with payment will be: A \u003d 340 Wx1chx4 kopecks. = 0.34 kWh1h4 kop. = 1.4 kop.

Rice. 1. Electric saw:

1 - stops, 2 - bearing housing, 3 - coupling, 4 - rotary lever, 5 - drill, 6 - drill switch, 7 - drill clamp, 8 - support plate for drill, 9 - shaft. 10 - platform-channel, 11 - racks, 12 - thrust bearing, 13 - frame, 14 - pedal, 15 - cable. 16 - support, 17 - hinge, 18 - driven sprocket, 19 - tire, 20 - guide cracker, 21 - shield, 22 - drive sprocket, 23 - bar, 24 - bracket, 25 - coupler (corner), 26 - drill shaft , 27 - sprocket cotter pin, 28 - fixing screw, 29 - drill cotter pin.

Rice. 2. Rotary shaft with drill coupling: 1 - channel platform, 2 - bearing housing, 3 - coupling, 4 - base plate for drill, 5 - shaft, 6 - bearing base plate. 7 - stand (not shown in side view), 8 - bolt.

With such a saw, you can harvest not only firewood, but also, without an assistant, cut logs with a diameter of up to 50 cm, boards, bars, textolite, asbestos-cement slabs and similar materials.

This machine has been working flawlessly on my farm for over 7 years. He is quite unpretentious; during operation, it is only necessary to lubricate the bearings and the gearbox of the drill once a year. The chain itself will require more attention: every one and a half hours of work it must be carefully re-lubricated, then it will serve for a long time and reliably.

When working with an electric saw, it is necessary to strictly observe the safety rules: have a connector on the cable, stand on a rubber mat when the machine is turned on, use only dry gloves, preferably rubberized from the side of the palms.

When assembling a saw with a drill, no transformations are required: only one handle (side) is unscrewed and removed from the drill, and a hole 8 mm is drilled in the end handle - to connect the drill to the saw bar.

Owning a sawmill is a profitable device, as wood is one of the most sought-after building materials. There are two options to get a sawmill: make it yourself or buy it in a store. Of course, the second option is simpler, but the first has more advantages. First of all, homemade from a chain saw is more cheap product in addition, such a device will fully meet the requirements of the owner.

Below are two options homemade saws: a tire sawmill from an electric saw and a circular saw from a manual circular saw. To make the first one, you will have to make some purchases, as well as stock up welding machine, the second option can be made from materials that any owner will surely find in a garage or on a plot.

The sawmills that are sold in the store are excellent productive devices with great functionality, designed for large volumes of wood. Such a tool can pay off in 2-3 months, but it is not advisable if it is used exclusively for domestic purposes. In this case, you can do it yourself from a small electric saw.

Currently, there are three types of sawmills on the tool market:

disk;

tape;

tire.

Circular saws are one of the most common in the household. Their disadvantage is the high cost of high-quality discs, as well as a relatively large amount of waste. Band saws the most economical, they are not afraid of bad weather, they leave little waste, but at the same time they have a complex device, which makes their manufacture at home a very difficult task. The simplest version of an electric sawmill is a tire saw, they differ in an elementary device, and can also process large volumes of wood of any thickness.

Self-made tire saw

In order to make a sawmill on your own, you will need drawings and certain calculations. The manufacturing process is not particularly difficult, the only point is the availability of all the necessary resources. Naturally, a home-made sawmill will be inferior in performance to factory products. However for the manufacture of beams and boards fit perfectly.

For the manufacture of a tire saw, certain materials will be required:

metal rails;
metal tubes with different diameters;
electric motor;
chainsaw tire;
drive sprocket (also suitable from a chainsaw).

As an electric motor, you can use any engine, for example, from a semi-professional electric saw, from an old grain grinder, or you can purchase it specially.

If the choice falls on the purchase option, then for household needs a three-phase 5.5 kW electric motor is ideal.

Assembly of the cutting part

The cutting part is represented by a tire and an electric motor connected to each other. The whole structure is placed in a metal frame, which is mounted on a vertical solid axis. In other words, the frame in which the saw is enclosed will be able to move vertically inside another frame. This movement will occur due to the guiding axis.

The first step will be frame manufacturing in which the bus will be installed. The frame is in the shape of a rectangle. On one side of the tire, it is attached to a vertical axle that provides rotation.

The sprocket that drives the tire has a central hole. It needs to insert an axle made of a strong alloy, which has high strength. Perfect fit low carbon steel. The axle opposes the horizontal movement of the tire, that is, the tire itself has a horizontal position in space, and the axle is vertical. On both sides, bearings are put on the axle close to the tire - this helps to avoid vertical displacement of the cutting part. After that, bushings are put on top that clamp the bearings.

The top of the axle is attached to metal profile. The opposite part of the profile is welded to the frame in which the electric motor is installed. Thus, the rectangle is formed as follows: the lower part is a tire, on both sides of it is an axle and an electric motor, the upper part is a bar.

This design does not allow the tire to give play during operation.

The electric motor and drive drum are attached on the opposite side of the axis. To attach them to the tire, you will need the remaining parts from the electric saw. The electric motor is mounted on a rigid body. Here, a large vibration should be taken into account, which means that the basis for the engine must be very rigid. From the side of the engine, a metal axle or a rigid profile is welded. It is due to him that the entire cutting structure will move vertically to ensure that the log is cut in the right place.

Transferring the body with the saw to the base

The next step is to transfer the entire structure to the main frame, which has the shape of a parallelepiped. This framework mounted on rollers, which will move along the rails and saw the log. The sides are a welded frame made of thick metal. From above, they are fastened together. In other words, the front view will resemble the letter P mounted on rails.

The distance between the side posts is 1-1.5 meters and is calculated based on the length of the tire: it should be slightly larger. The side racks themselves are so wide that a structure with a cutting base can be installed inside. If this design has a width of 60 cm, then the width of the side faces should be the same. This is done with the expectation that a saw will be installed inside one of the racks. The axis along which it moves is attached above and below inside the side frame.

Thus, vertical movement is provided by the axis. Horizontal movement occurs with the help of rollers that roll along the rails.

Making a circular saw from a hand-held circular saw

For home master Having a circular saw at home is a matter of vital importance. It is quite possible to make it with your own hands. The easiest way to do circular saw is to use a hand saw. For the manufacture of the machine, the design of an existing saw does not need to be redone. Enough make a table for her. Obviously, the saw will be fixed under the tabletop, and the disc through a special hole is above it.

To make a table, you will need wooden bars 40 * 40 and plywood. A square base is made with a side length of 80 cm and a height of 40 cm.

A square sheet of plywood is taken as a countertop, it is best to use lacquered or laminated - it provides smoothness and easy sliding. In the central part, a cut is made for the disk. Holes are pre-drilled in the corners for attaching the tabletop to the table.

From below, a disk is attached to the tabletop. hand saw. The easiest way to do this is with bolts. Hats must be carefully drowned in the surface.

To turn on the saw, you need to fix the power button on it, and insert the power plug into the outlet that will be connected to the start button.

For ease of use, you can attach a metal corner on one side, which will serve as longitudinal stop. To move it, you can make cuts at right angles to the disk, and move it by loosening and tightening the bolts that fix this stop.

A circular saw from an electric saw is a simple and inexpensive option for home use. Of course, when installing a tool, the thickness of the tabletop will steal a little from the disc, but in general, this option is quite enough for domestic needs.

Do-it-yourself sawmill from a chainsaw how to do it quickly and easily. Homemade sawmill and circular saw from an electric saw Do-it-yourself sawmill from a chain saw