How a fiberglass casting from a matrix became a boat. Do-it-yourself boats. Boat drawings. How to make a boat Do-it-yourself boat with a cabin drawings

Fiberglass is the only material that allows you to create a shape of any complexity yourself. Independent design of the bottom makes it possible to equip it with redans of any configuration. You can achieve maximum efficiency of the ship's driving performance by placing the redans in the most suitable places. In addition, the design of a homemade boat will be a reflection of the character of its owner.

There is a manufacturing method homemade boat from plywood and fiberglass, when plastic is used only for the outer covering of the boat. But this technology does not justify itself. The layer of plywood lying under the plastic quickly gains moisture, which increases the weight of the vessel. There is a rapid destruction of plywood due to the action of microorganisms and the process of delamination, because in terms of strength, plywood is much inferior to plastic.

How to make a boat By carefully following all the rules, even a beginner will be able to complete this task. Technological process simple and budget. The hull of the vessel is created by means of a reinforcing filler impregnated with a polymer composition.

Materials and drawing

Raw materials used as a reinforcing filler in the manufacture of the frame:

• hull base, sides - roving fiberglass TP-07, TP-03, TP-056;
• local strengthening of individual sections - structural fiberglass T-11, T-13.

Fiberglass happens different types according to the type of weaving, the size of the threads. Basically choose "oblique" or satin weave. The threads must be twisted. The material is sold in the form of sheets, rolls, tapes.

Fiberglass is sold impregnated with a greasy composition. In order for the fabric to be better impregnated with a binder, the lubricant should be removed with gasoline, white spirit or acetone. The fat-free fabric is dried for about 2-4 hours in air.

Resin is needed to glue the reinforcing material. There are three types of resins used in the shipbuilding industry: epoxy, vinyl ester, and polyester. The most important characteristics of resins in the construction of a fiberglass boat from any type of fiber are adhesion and impregnation.

A cheap option is to use polyester resin, which allows you to create a solid fiberglass element in one operation. TM Ashland resin may be used. To create a decorative, with protective properties of the coating of the body, you will need a gelcoat. You will also need plywood with a thickness of at least 1.2 cm, which has moisture resistance.

Making a boat is impossible without a competent drawing. The design of the future watercraft can be carried out using the AutoCAD program. First, a 3D model is created, then frame diagrams, patterns. Ready drawings are taken on specialized sites, on the Internet. Now you can start making a fiberglass boat with your own hands.

Matrix

Directly manufacturing process making a fiberglass boat with your own hands begins with the construction of a matrix. First, a frame is made on which the frames are attached. Next, they should be upholstered with twelve-millimeter plywood, trying to achieve the most even surface possible. The edges of the boat are made more rigid, a double layer of plywood is used for the sides.

Now it is necessary to align the boards for a long time and carefully using polyester putty. It is necessary to eliminate all errors so that the design of the boat is stable. You can work with special spatulas-patterns.

At the stage of matrix alignment, it is possible to provide for such an important part of the boat as the keel. It ensures smooth movement of a rowing or motor boat, excluding agility. A homemade keel made of wood is poured with polyester resin.

By marking, all the errors of the constructed matrix are revealed. Sandpaper align and clean the edges, giving the future vessel symmetry. The finished form cleaned of dirt is degreased, an anti-adhesive composition is applied to it in 4 layers. It is needed as a separator to prevent the resin from sticking to the mold surface.

Gelcoat coating

After the wax layer dries, a gelcoat is applied, which is the outer surface of the boat. This is a crucial moment, on which depends appearance vessel. Gelcoat provides protection against scratches, UV, scuffs. You need to apply it, achieving a uniform coating, avoiding bubbles and streaks. Now you can start laying the cut parts on a completely dry layer of gelcoat.

Case manufacturing

The cutting of the fabric is carried out by cutting the cloths corresponding to the length of the body. Cloths for laying along the waterline and keel should not have joints. If an impact occurs on an obstacle, then the material in this place is able to lift up and then peel off. Allowances should be left when cutting along the edges for laying overlay. To sew pieces of fiberglass to obtain the required length, you can use glass threads pulled out of the edge of the material, or linen soaked in drying oil.

The glass fiber layer is evenly coated with a binder polymer resin. For this, it is recommended to use a rolling roller. Air bubbles must be avoided, as voids remaining in some places weaken the structure. Next, the next layer of fiberglass is laid in a similar pattern. Up to five layers of fiberglass can be applied. To obtain a more beautiful top layer, it is recommended to use a special "top" fiberglass.

Power frame and floor

To reinforce the body, it is necessary to lay three wooden bars along the mold, which are then covered with two layers of fiberglass. The frames are mounted every 30 cm, also applying fiberglass to them.

It is necessary to create a double sealed bottom, making the boat unsinkable even in case of capsizing. The floor is sheathed with plywood sheets with moisture resistant properties. The finished floor is covered with a couple of layers of reinforcing fabric, with mandatory impregnation with polymer resin. The composition is allowed to dry completely.

Final stage

It remains to remove the finished boat from the mold, cut off the allowances, sand the surface, mount the roof and timber to protect the sides. You can also make additional elements: seats, oar mounts, drawers. Using fiberglass, you can make any necessary accessories for the ship with your own hands. After that, start painting.

By a similar method, do-it-yourself fiberglass boats are made. Of course, the drawing and construction of a boat is more complicated than boats, and more effort will be required. But the cost of homemade will cost half as much as the same finished vessel.

Repair

It is required to repair a fiberglass boat or a boat in the event of typical damage:

• decorative layer defects;
• cracks in the body;
• holes and half-holes;
• divergence of angles;
• shells.

Basic materials for repair: fiberglass, epoxy resins. When starting repairs, it is recommended to place the damaged area closer to the horizontal level. Surface must be clean, dry and free of grease. A hair dryer, technical or household, may be required. Before starting to repair defects, the fiberglass must be degreased by rinsing in a solvent and dried well.

For emergency repairs, do not dry it over a fire, as soot will form. Before laying on damage, fiberglass is impregnated in a diluted compound (polyester or epoxy resin), after which it is squeezed out by pulling between two sticks. The repair site must be cleaned with a large sandpaper to the fiberglass layer, making it slightly terry.

Troubleshooting

Minor damage in the form of scratches are sealed with epoxy without filler or primer. A through-type scratch is removed by puttying with a filler compound, after which the treated area remains to be sanded and painted over.

It is enough to cover small cracks with epoxy resin. If the body is cracked, then a decorative layer is removed from both sides of the damage to the fiberglass. After drying, it is filled with epoxy resin. To do this, press on each side of the crack, allowing it to open, and coat it. After that, the edges are combined, fixed. From above, on both sides, a strip of fiberglass impregnated with a compound is applied. After hardening, the repair site is sanded, covered with a layer of resin, sanded again and painted.

A half-hole is characterized by a break with a remaining piece of plastic. If the break is small, then you need to set the protruding piece. To do this, it is necessary to process all surfaces with a compound. With the help of a stop and a mallet, the piece is put in place, while a bulge forms on one side, and a dent on the other. Fiberglass with impregnation is laid on a convex place, fixed with a load. After polymerization, the half-hole is puttied with resin with filler. Further actions, grinding - laying the impregnated sheet, are repeated twice. Then sanding and painting is carried out.

The hole is sealed with a foam punch, preferably along the outer contours. Several patches are made from thick fiberglass with tolerances from 3 to 5 mm, so that the thickness of the package matches the thickness of the hull. After installing the punch, patches are glued. The algorithm of further actions is the same as in the previous cases.

The divergence of the corners is eliminated in the same way as the sealing of cracks, but fiberglass is taken in the form of a tape. The sink is the most unpleasant type of damage. Sometimes it's a manufacturing defect. It can form between the layers due to the ingress of water, which bursts the layers into winter time. To repair, you will need to open the sink by drilling a hole until it enters the cavity.

Then a wide incision (up to 5 mm) is made in the place of its largest size. The opened cavity is dried with a hair dryer, filled with a compound using a syringe. The processed shell is clamped into the press. Then the usual algorithm of puttying, grinding and painting is performed.

Fiberglass is an excellent material for the manufacture of boats and boats, available in use. Do-it-yourself fiberglass boats are durable and strong, easy to repair. It should be borne in mind that the components of the materials used in the work are not safe for health. It is necessary to work in rubber gloves, protective masks, goggles, in a well-ventilated place.

Instruction

First, decide on the technology of construction. There are two main ways: in the first, a set of hulls is first made, sheathed with thin plywood. Then the finished case is pasted over with several layers of fiberglass. When using the second option, a matrix is ​​made, in which the body is then glued.

The first option is suitable for those who build in a single copy. The disadvantage of this method is that the finished case needs a rather laborious processing. The second option requires the cost of material and time, but at the same time allows you to get a body with an ideal surface that needs only painting. This method is advisable to use for small-scale, since the matrix remains intact and ready to build the next boat.

Having chosen the first method, create, according to the drawings, a set of the hull of the future boat. If this is your first independent building, choose a set of ready-made drawings - this will save you a lot of problems. It is worth building a boat according to your own drawings only after acquiring a certain experience.

When building a boat, use only stainless fasteners - brass or bronze screws and nails. The fiberglass used must be annealed with a blowtorch (but do not burn it!) To a slight brown tint. Without such treatment, the fiberglass fabric will be poorly impregnated with the polyester or epoxy resins and the case will be very fragile.

When choosing a resin, remember that polyester resins are easier to work with than epoxy resins, but polyester resins are less durable. For gluing the first layers of skin, you will need fiberglass - that is, coarse-weave fiberglass. For the outer layers of the body, use satin weave fiberglass. A fiberglass mesh goes to the very top - a thin fabric of rare weaving, well impregnated with resin.

Sand the finished case and polish it. This work should begin before the resin has completely hardened. Be sure to work in a respirator, use electric tools - it is very difficult to handle a large body by hand.

When choosing the second option, first make a matrix. To do this, you need to create a set that is reverse to the hull of the future boat. Use polyester resins, the wall thickness of the matrix should not be less than 8 millimeters. The matrix must necessarily have stiffeners so that it does not “be driven”. Remember that the quality of the future boat hull depends on the quality of the matrix surface.

Start gluing the body in the matrix by applying a separating layer - without it, the body will firmly stick to the matrix. As a separating layer, use floor wax, petroleum jelly, wax. After its application, the molding of the boat hull begins. The decorative (painted) layer is applied first, its thickness is 0.4-0.6 mm. Then, layers of fiberglass mesh, fiberglass fabric and glass wool are successively laid. All layers are carefully rolled to the surface of the matrix with a roller.

After forming the body, it is necessary to install (glue) the inner set. Do this directly in the matrix, this method will avoid deformations. Make the deck in a separate matrix and connect it to the hull or glue it in place. A body properly made in the matrix does not need additional finishing and painting.

Learn how to build a boat with your own hands. If you like leisurely and reliable boats () and like to spend a lot of time on the water, I suggest you build a displacement tourist boat Crab. If you cannot build this boat with your own hands, then contact any master boatman. In construction, the boat is not complicated and does not require scarce materials, so it will not be difficult for the master to assemble this boat from the material that he has at hand. Here it is important to maintain the contours of the hull, since they are close to the optimal speeds of 8-12 km / h.

Therefore, it is not worth putting engines more powerful than 20 hp. Otherwise, the boat will go into a very disadvantageous mode in terms of fuel consumption. The lower limit of engine power is 3-4.5 hp. After it, the boat has poor handling and a strong loss of speed during a strong headwind. Therefore, a good propeller stop is needed, which is obtained at a low speed of rotation from 1000 to 1500 rpm, and a large propeller diameter. The boat is designed with a low side and a cabin not large in volume. To reduce the wave resistance of the hull, a relatively narrow (L/B = 3.3) coefficient of longitudinal completeness ϕ = 6.65 was chosen. The wheelhouse has a small height, approximately 1.6 m, and is located in the stern of the boat, it is open from the stern and the control post is located in it. And if the driver opens the hatch located above his seat, he will be able to drive while standing on the bench.

It is not recommended to increase the cutting height, this will lead to a loss of speed and poor controllability of the boat. In the wheelhouse, in a rather free place, there is a galley with a gas stove, there is also a sink for washing dishes. The galley closes with a lid and becomes a seat for two people. The length of the cockpit with the wheelhouse is approximately 2 meters, so that 6 people can comfortably accommodate. But if you decide to go on a long trip, I advise you to take no more than 4 people on board. Since there is not much space in the cabin of the boat, then two will have to sleep in the cockpit on air mattresses. The cabin has a wardrobe, a bar closet, berths with small lockers and a shelf in the forepeak. On the drawing general view the engine UD2-M1 with a power of 8 hp is indicated. Air-cooled, paired with a reverse gear from the SM-557L engine. It is desirable to install these engines openly, or to provide air flow if a hood is installed.

A jet of hot air can be directed to the wheelhouse and cabin with the help of a screen, it will turn out quite efficient heating in wet weather. Air-cooled engines are much easier to maintain and more economical. With a UD2-M1 engine and a 1:1.64 gearbox, this boat has a speed of 12 km/h and consumes only 0.28 l/km of fuel. Boat hull can be built different ways. In the drawing you can see laminated frames, they are glued according to the templates from the rails. The hull plating can be carried out directly along these frames. Which are installed on the slipway as patterns. You can also use hinged frames. Parts of these frames are sawn out of boards and interconnected with overlays of the same thickness.

If the frames are made of oak or ash, make blanks with a thickness of 22 - 24 mm, if made of pine, then the thickness is 28-30 mm. When marking, place the details so that the wood has a minimum overstressing of the fibers. Otherwise, the frames may crack during grounding or in other emergency situations. It is better to make hinged frames in three layers, replace the lining by gluing strips of waterproof plywood 4-5 mm thick on both sides of the frame. The distance between the frames is 600 mm.

How to build a boat with your own hands - hull plating options.

When sheathing the hull, edge to edge of the board is connected by gluing along the edges, this gives the boat hull good rigidity without additional frames. To do this, you need spruce or pine boards 20 mm thick and 120 - 150 mm wide in the middle part of the length of the boat's hull. The plating is attached to the keel, frames and stem with 5x45 screws, and the edges of the plating must be riveted with nails - preferably copper rivets with a diameter of 3.5 - 4 mm. Pre-drill smaller holes for the nails. Rivet the inside ends of the nails onto the washers.

Body with plank upholstery smooth. With this method of sheathing the hull of the boat, adjacent belts do not have a connection with each other, only through the frames. The thickness of the skin is 20 mm and the spacing is 600 mm, the case with this option is quite strong, but it may appear to leak along the poses. You can use an additional element triangular rail - a flipper, which is fixed with frequent metal brackets in the grooves of the skin, which are separated from the outside. The best option is to put one bent frame between the hinged frames indicated in the drawing. Or make all frames bent. Then the spacing will become 300 mm, the thickness of the skin can be 15 - 17 mm. Blanks for bent frames can be cut from oak, ash slats with a section of 16x35 or spruce slats with a section of 18x35. First they need to be steamed out and then put into the case, when all the skin is assembled on temporary patterns. With bent frames, the weight of the boat will be less. Now briefly how to make the most important individual boat hulls. To make a keel, you can use any of the methods shown in the figure.

The keel consists of a bar placed on the edge or the keel itself with a thickness of 40 mm and a rezenkil - which is attached to the upper edge of its board, which is bent into a layer, or two rails on the sides. Here the choice depends on your capabilities, but keep in mind that with the option with slats, it is possible to flow along the poses between the slats and the keel, so you need a tight fit and more fasteners and waterproof glue will not be superfluous at all. The stem is assembled from two parts for their manufacture, it is necessary to draw in advance the contour of the stem in full size according to the theoretical drawing, then transfer the dimensions of all parts to the plaza according to the distorted design. According to this markup, the parts are pre-treated, then tightly adjusted to each other. The most difficult thing is to choose a tongue and groove - to make a recess from the boards at the bottom of the stem.

This must be done on the slipway. To mark the frame frames, you need to draw a full-size plaz drawing, then mark the thickness of the outer skin inside the bypass. Do this with a flexible rail or compass. Rivet floors, linings and beam brackets with copper nails - rivets with a diameter of 4-5 mm, then put washers under the ends and rivet, you can also use galvanized steel bolts. Each part must be fastened with at least three rivets. The top-timbers of all frames are connected by a temporary crossbar - a bar at a height of 800 mm from the OL. It is better to sheathe the transom into a tongue and assemble it on the plaza along with the harness.

Assemble the hull when the keel is at the bottom, install on the slipway according to the theoretical drawing a bookmark, a stem, a transom and a keel with a resenkeel. Check the position of the frame frames and attach to the resenkel using steel squares - shorty or two M6 bolts passing them vertically through the floors. Place the squares in the joints of the fender with frames. The ends of idle beams are cut into the fender. Place beams when assembling frame frames on 1, 2, 3 frames. Mount the deckhouse when you finish installing the carling 8, mount the bulkhead on the 5th frame and the deck flooring, which is assembled from 15 mm boards, do not forget to caulk afterwards.

"Designer" in the bow of the cabin is an inclined coaming, it can be assembled from 17 mm boards or from plywood 8-12 mm thick. Also set a time frame at frame 4, this will give a curve to the side coaming. Mark the felling beams in the same way as you marked the hull beams. And cut the ends into a shelf dovetail). Sheathe the roof of the cabin with plywood 6 mm thick or clapboard with a thickness of 12 m. Be sure to then cover the roof of the cabin with canvas (on liquid putty) and secure it with beads and glazing beads.

Theoretical drawing of the boat Crab

Table of ordinates of the theoretical drawing of the displacement boat Crab that you can assemble with your own hands, mm (according to the outer skin)

General view of the tourist boat: 1 - hinged steering wheel; 2 - aft mooring bollard; 3- handrail; 4- onboard distinctive light of the boat; 5- boat headlight; 6- top fire; 7- casing for the sliding hatch; 8- forluk; 9 - foot rails; 10-biteng; 11 - bale bar; 12 hatches above the driver's seat; 13- boat engine; 14- fodder locker.

The layout of the boat 1 - afterpeak; 2- boat engine; 3 - fuel tank; 4 - control cabin; 5 - sliding hatch; 6- casing for the hatch cover; 7 - forluk; 8 - shelf; 9 - forepeak: 10 - shelf; 11 - portable bucket; 12 - sewing the sides with slats, internal: 13 - bunk - sofa; 14 - bureau-cabinet; 15 - seat for the driver; 16 - fuel tank; 17 - seat cover - locker; 18 - folding chair: 19 sink for washing dishes: 20 - gas stove; 21 - double folding door; 22- wardrobe

Bookmark and section on frames. 1 - outer skin; 2-frame (laminated - 30 X 45: wall-mounted - 28 X 65); 3-side stringer 28X50; 4 - knee δ = 25; 5 - cockpit coaming, plywood δ = 8 or board 10-12 mm; 6 - gunwale 8X25. oak; 7-rail 12 X 25; 8 - carlings 25 X 40; 9-floor, δ = 30. 10 - bead, 25 X 30; 11 - fender 28 X 50; 12 - bead r - 22; 13 - deckhouse coaming, plywood δ = 8 or a board with a thickness of 10 - 12, 14 - shelf 22x50 15 - shelf 20X32; 16-shoulder, g-12; 11 - wheelhouse roof, plywood δ = 6; 18-beams 22X32; 19-carling cutting 25 X 40; 20 - strip 2X20. brass or light alloy; 21 - bar 8X60. oak; 22 - bulkhead, plywood δ = 6 or lining 12-15; 23 - door pillar 20 X 40. floorboard support bar. 28X35; 25 - bar 12X80; 26 - rail 30X30: 27 - flooring of beds, board 12 mm or plywood δ = 6; 28 - interior lining of the cabin, rail 8 X 45; 29 - layout 8X80; 30 - cabin roof, plywood δ = 6; 31 - beam 22X 35; 32-deck flooring, board 15-17 or plywood δ = 8; 33 - beam 25 X 60; 34 - rail 30X30; 35 - stem; 36 - screws M6 X 150; 37 - button; 38 - rezenkil 35 X 140; - 40X80; 40 - aft deadwood: dial on bars 140 mm thick: 41 - rudder thrust, steel δ = 3-4; 42 - deadwood overlay, 140 X 140; 43 - starnica, δ = 40; 44 - transom strapping, 28 X 65; 45 - transom, δ = 20-22.

Keel assembly options: a - a keel variant with a board made of board; b - keel version with side rails. 1- keel of the boat; 2 - resenkil; 3 - mounting bolt M6 with a pitch of 200-250: 4 - rail size 40 X 30; 5 - screw 5 X 80 with pitch pitch 120.