Strawberries don't grow well. Why strawberries do not bloom and bear fruit, reasons. It's all about the feed

If strawberries do not bear fruit in a summer cottage, then an experienced gardener will name several reasons. The first is the degeneration of the variety. Strawberries bear fruit in one place for only a few years - some varieties 2-3 years, others, more persistent 4-5 years. Intensive type, modern, giving a large berry and super-yield, usually lose varietal qualities for 3-4 years.

1. Degeneration, loss of varietal qualities

Exit in the absence or small number of berries, in the presence of fruits in more deformed, with an excessive amount of seeds - simply change the planting material. Without regret, dig up the bed, if it is more than 5 years old, move it to a new place.

You can take a couple of outlets with you, but remember: with them you will also take a bouquet of diseases, fungal spots and viral, as well as voracious sweet tooth - pests - the old beds have probably become their breeding ground.

If the remontant strawberry has ceased to bear fruit, it is often advised to rejuvenate it by dividing the bush. The advice is useful, but only for a year. Dividing the old uterine root into several parts, next year we will get a small crop, but just a small one - it will be the last. The root system can be divided, but physiologically it has used up all the reserves laid down genetically.

Also, you should not take distant outlets for seedlings - only the first two, the very first from the mother plant: they are the most viable and promising.

Therefore, reluctantly, take such a step - you will not regret it.

2. There are no berries on strawberries - when did you plant them?

Another reason for the lack of berries (flowers, ovaries) is planting at the wrong time. Read about the choice of planting dates for strawberries in the author's publication.

Fruit buds of early varieties are laid at the end of summer - at the beginning of autumn. If you planted strawberries just before the frosts, generative buds did not have time to form, there is no time for differentiation (formation of fruit buds). All this shifts the timing of fruiting in the summer and significantly reduces fruit formation.

3. I got sick!

Another reason is a fungal infection: if the plants are covered with red, dark spots, then the bushes are probably sick with one of the types of fungal spots - brown, white, angular.

By destroying the leaf apparatus, thanks to which plants absorb oxygen and the process of photosynthesis occurs, the disease also affects the fruiting of the crop. Strawberries can also not bear fruit with Fusarium wilt - a disease of the root system. At its initial stage, the plants have a stunted, withered appearance, there are no berries, then they simply wither - the bushes can literally be removed from the soil if you pull it slightly - the root system dies.

It can also be the machinations of pests - larvae Maybug, carnivores that damage the root system, as well as weevil, slugs.

4. Is it all about nutrition?

With a lack of nutrients - nitrogen, potassium, manganese, boron, iron, the fruiting of strawberries is extremely poor. When planting, organic matter + mineral complex is applied, then - during flowering and ovary, the NPK mineral complex is applied at least twice - ready-made fertilizers in the chelated form, complex, tank mixture through the fertigation system or 1/ cup of ash + 30 g of urea - as they say, who is in what much. Details in this article.

5. Pollination, climate and pollinators

The lack of pollination is one of the reasons for the lack of berries - everything is in order in the garden, but there are no berries on strawberries - it will not give birth this year. Perhaps the ovary is missing due to problems with pollination. The bursting heat, the lack of pollinating insects can be to blame - remember, didn’t they howl them with insecticides and acaricides that act not selectively on the pest, but on all insects, including bees?

Some varieties need pollinators - extremely rare, but these are found among strawberries - remember, most of us grow garden strawberries. The yield of others increases when there is a nearby pollinator of another variety - for example, in Vikoda and vice versa, less in its absence.

Strawberries don't bloom!

Strawberries of productive age (up to 4 years) do not bloom - there are several reasons. The first reason for the absence of flowers and ovaries for strawberries is the lack of flower buds at the time of laying nutrients, moisture.

Generative buds were laid in August - early September of the previous year - so let's remember why the plants did not receive enough for laying the future crop. That is why, after fruiting, the plants are fertilized and watered until September.

At extremely high temperatures during the ovary - and the extreme starts after +30 C, the pollen loses its qualities, it can even become sterile. No pollination - no berries. That is why they try to grow early varieties- so that drought does not fall during the ovary.

One of the obvious reasons for the lack of flowers on strawberries is that they don’t bloom and that’s it! - death of flower buds during freezing, icing. By the way, covering material, film or agrofibre should not touch plants in winter - frostbite is guaranteed.

Obvious Causes of Common Problems

If the strawberry buds dry out, fall off before our eyes - this is the pests operating. Strawberry weevil laying eggs in flower buds and overwintering in plant debris. To combat it, insecticides are used, carrying out processing no later than 5 days before flowering, for warning - they take out plant debris, loosen the soil in the root zone.

If the center (stigma) of the flowers has darkened, frost is to blame. At the same time, the petals remain intact, do not change either color or shape. The situation is critical: if the stigmas die, there will be no ovary. To prevent this from happening, do not plant plants in cold lowlands, cover with agrofibre in early spring if there is a threat of a return frost.
To save the color from freezing, fog installations are used - moist air cools more slowly, watered by sprinkling the aisle.

By listening to our advice, you will not worry about why strawberries do not bear fruit - you will know what to do for a generous harvest.

If strawberries do not bear fruit in a summer cottage, then an experienced gardener will name several reasons. The first is the degeneration of the variety. Strawberries bear fruit in one place for only a few years - some varieties 2-3 years, others, more persistent 4-5 years. Intensive type, modern, giving a large berry and super-yield, usually lose varietal qualities for 3-4 years.

1. Degeneration, loss of varietal qualities

The way out in the absence or a small number of berries, in the presence of fruits that are more deformed, with an excess number of seeds, is simply to change the planting material. Without regret, dig up the bed, if it is more than 5 years old, move it to a new place.

You can take a couple of outlets with you, but remember: with them you will also take a bouquet of diseases, fungal spots and viral, as well as voracious sweet tooth - pests - the old beds have probably become their breeding ground.

If the remontant strawberry has ceased to bear fruit, it is often advised to rejuvenate it by dividing the bush. The advice is useful, but only for a year. Dividing the old uterine root into several parts, next year we will get a small crop, but just a small one - it will be the last. The root system can be divided, but physiologically it has used up all the reserves laid down genetically.

Also, you should not take distant outlets for seedlings - only the first two, the very first from the mother plant: they are the most viable and promising.

Therefore, reluctantly, take such a step - you will not regret it.

2. There are no berries on strawberries - when did you plant them?

Another reason for the lack of berries (flowers, ovaries) is planting at the wrong time. Read about the choice of planting dates for strawberries in the author's publication.

Fruit buds of early varieties are laid at the end of summer - at the beginning of autumn. If you planted strawberries just before the frosts, generative buds did not have time to form, there is no time for differentiation (formation of fruit buds). All this shifts the timing of fruiting in the summer and significantly reduces fruit formation.

3. I got sick!

Another reason is a fungal infection: if the plants are covered with red, dark spots, then the bushes are probably sick with one of the types of fungal spots - brown, white, angular.

By destroying the leaf apparatus, thanks to which plants absorb oxygen and the process of photosynthesis occurs, the disease also affects the fruiting of the crop. Strawberries can also not bear fruit with Fusarium wilt - a disease of the root system. At its initial stage, the plants have a stunted, withered appearance, there are no berries, then they simply wither - the bushes can literally be removed from the soil if you pull it slightly - the root system dies.

It can also be the machinations of pests - the larvae of the May beetle, the cockchafers that damage the root system, as well as the weevil, slugs.

4. Is it all about nutrition?

With a lack of nutrients - nitrogen, potassium, manganese, boron, iron, the fruiting of strawberries is extremely poor. When planting, organic matter + mineral complex is applied, then - during flowering and ovary, the NPK mineral complex is applied at least twice - ready-made fertilizers in the chelated form are complex, tank mixture through the fertigation system or 1/ cup of ash + 30 g of urea - as they say, who in which is much. Details in this article.

5. Pollination, climate and pollinators

The lack of pollination is one of the reasons for the lack of berries - everything is in order in the garden, but there are no berries on strawberries - it will not give birth this year. Perhaps the ovary is missing due to problems with pollination. The bursting heat, the lack of pollinating insects can be to blame - remember, didn’t they howl them with insecticides and acaricides that act not selectively on the pest, but on all insects, including bees?

Some varieties need pollinators - extremely rare, but these are found among strawberries - remember, most of us grow garden strawberries. The yield of others increases when there is a nearby pollinator of another variety - for example, in Vikoda and vice versa, less in its absence.

Strawberries don't bloom!

Strawberries of productive age (up to 4 years) do not bloom - there are several reasons. The first reason for the absence of flowers and ovaries for strawberries is the lack of nutrients and moisture at the time of laying flower buds.

Generative buds were laid in August - early September of the previous year - so let's remember why the plants did not receive enough for laying the future crop. That is why, after fruiting, the plants are fertilized and watered until September.

At extremely high temperatures during the ovary - and the extreme starts after +30 C, the pollen loses its qualities, it can even become sterile. No pollination - no berries. That is why they try to grow early varieties - so that drought does not fall during the ovary.

One of the obvious reasons for the lack of flowers on strawberries is that they don’t bloom and that’s it! - death of flower buds during freezing, icing. By the way, covering material, film or agrofibre should not touch plants in winter - frostbite is guaranteed.

Obvious Causes of Common Problems

If the strawberry buds dry out, fall off before our eyes - this is the pests operating. Strawberry weevil laying eggs in flower buds and overwintering in plant debris. To combat it, insecticides are used, carrying out processing no later than 5 days before flowering, for warning - they take out plant debris, loosen the soil in the root zone.

If the center (stigma) of the flowers has darkened, frost is to blame. At the same time, the petals remain intact, do not change either color or shape. The situation is critical: if the stigmas die, there will be no ovary. To prevent this from happening, do not plant plants in cold lowlands, cover with agrofibre in early spring if there is a threat of a return frost.
To save the color from freezing, fog installations are used - moist air cools more slowly, watered by sprinkling the aisle.

By listening to our advice, you will not worry about why strawberries do not bear fruit - you will know what to do for a generous harvest.

Strawberries are considered one of the most popular horticultural crops, in home gardens and summer cottages of our compatriots, it has consistently occupied a leading position for many decades.

This berry is loved for its color, aroma and, of course, a delicate sweet taste with a slight sourness. However, sometimes situations arise when there is too much acidity. Let's understand the reasons.

Why are fruits not sweet?

There are many reasons why berries grow not sweet, but sour.

The first reason is related to the wrong variety. It happens that when transplanting their bushes to a new place, the gardener simply confuses the plants different types and then he is surprised to find that those berries that should be sweet turn out to be completely different. To avoid such confusion, you should be more careful and sign the seedlings when changing the landing site.

The second reason is too long growing time and natural aging of the shrub. It is believed that strawberries need to be renewed every 4-5 years; if it grows in one place longer, then the berries invariably shrink, and their taste loses its sweetness and aroma. This is easily explained - the root system wears out over a long time and is no longer able to provide either the proper size or the favorite taste of strawberry fruits.

The fifth reason is related to the height of the strawberry planting. If you are the owner of uneven land with slopes, moisture stagnation often occurs, which significantly impairs the taste of berries and the development of strawberries in general. In this case, it is worth equipping raised beds, leveling them on the surface, and you can enjoy good harvest.

The sixth culprit in low sugar levels in fruits is also beds, but this time they are located incorrectly in relation to sunlight. Strawberries love the light and the most delicious fruits grow in the sun; in order for the fruits to fully ripen, they need at least 8 hours of natural light per day.

Heat and sufficient light are key factors influencing the quality and quantity of cultivated garden strawberries.

The third reason is excess watering. Of course, if the summer turned out to be rainy, then you can’t do anything here, the only advice is to loosen the ground near the bushes and aisle as often as possible, this will allow moisture to evaporate faster. But more often the gardeners themselves are to blame - out of ignorance or in pursuit of the size of the berries, they flood their plantings. As a result, the berries become watery and completely tasteless.

The fourth reason is related to the characteristics of the soil. The fact is that strawberries prefer fertile and well-drained lands, slightly acidified. If you noticed that in the current season strawberries have slightly changed their taste and become more acidic, then in the spring, be sure to feed the land with compost or rotted manure mixed with river sand in equal volumes - dilute with water and thoroughly pour the resulting solution over the entire area where growing strawberries. Such processing can in no way be attributed to full-fledged top dressing, however, it is noted that the fruits actually turn out to be sweeter and rather large.

The seventh reason is high planting density. It seems to some owners of summer cottages that the more bushes they plant on one bed, the more they will harvest. This is not so - strawberries love space and need to provide a lot of space. The best option planting berries on a site is considered a square-nested method, when the distance between shrubs on one bed is 30-40 cm, and the row spacing is about 50. If the plantings are denser, the bushes will feel a nutrient deficiency - in such conditions, the berries are small and sour.

Another reason is cultural disease. When buying bushes, inspect them most carefully - there should be no signs of rot, mold and spotting on the leaves and shoots: all fungal infections cause plant depletion, which at best causes a loss of taste characteristics of the fruit, but most often leads to the death of bushes. Such a preventive examination should become mandatory from year to year.

The ninth factor, which often leads to an increase in acids in fruits, is the wrong planting date. It is advisable to plant garden strawberries in August, but many do this when they feel like it, which is fundamentally wrong. Strawberries should be planted in the last summer month, because only in this case, before the onset of cold weather, does it have enough time to build up the necessary root system. If you live in a temperate climate, then before the arrival of frost, you also need to mulch the ground or cover it with agrofiber - then the young bushes will be able to survive the winter, and the fruits will turn out juicy and sweet.

The tenth reason is related to excessive haste. Do not expect in the first year - immediately after planting - a plentiful and sweet harvest. Let the plants gain strength and energy - then in a year you will be able to enjoy the delicate taste of berries.

And, finally, the taste of the berries is significantly reduced if gardeners resort to mowing at the end of the season in order to remove all leaf blades from the site. Most often, as a result of such actions, damage is caused to the growth point and this provokes deformations that lead to a decrease in the sweetness of strawberries. All leaf plates are best combed out with a small rake.

How to improve the quality of berries?

If you notice that strawberries have become more sour - do not despair. In most cases, the situation can be corrected and enjoy delicious fruits next season.

• Give the plant light. It has been proven that the aromatic compounds that give strawberries their distinctive flavor are very closely related to the amount of light the plant receives. Scientific studies have confirmed that if you triple the lighting, the sweetness of the fruit also increases.

Scientists have calculated that the presence of sugar in a berry growing in the shade is 7 times lower than that of one planted on sunny place; therefore, if your berries develop near a fence or in the shade of a sprawling tree, just transplant them to a new place where they will not lack light and warmth.

• Give me more red. Surprising but true. Plants mulched with red fiber produce fruits that are 20% larger than the rest, as well as much sweeter and more fragrant. This is confirmed by data from studies conducted at the University of California at the beginning of this century. Under such conditions, more ascorbin and anthocyanins are produced in the berries, which are responsible for the coloring of the culture.
• Provide potassium to strawberries. Experiments conducted by breeders have shown that plants grown on acidic soils with a high content of potassium have a much sweeter taste. If you live in regions where the land cannot boast of such parameters - just make raised beds with a high amount of organic matter, for example, peat and compost; also, apply potash fertilizer every two weeks throughout the growing season.

• Plant correctly. Proper planting gives half the sweetness of the berries. In order for the plant to please with a sweet and plentiful harvest, the distance between the seedlings should be observed, as well as regularly loosening the earth and removing weeds. It is optimal to pull out excess herbs immediately, as soon as they appear - this not only improves the taste of strawberries, but also significantly increases the content of vitamin C in it, and, therefore, makes the fruits more useful and nutritious.
• Comfrey and aspirin. Studies have clearly shown that the specific taste of the berry is due to the presence of the bacteria Methylobacterium extorquens, which live on the leaves. Their content increases dramatically if the plant is sprayed with infusion of comfrey, which is popularly called Adam's grass. To prepare such a composition, you should collect half a bucket of grass, pour water and leave for a month under a closed lid. For processing, 15 parts of water are taken for 1 part of the infusion, diluted and leaf plates are sprayed every two weeks.

Experienced gardeners note that if a crushed aspirin tablet is added to the resulting solution, the taste of the berries will improve significantly, and the ripening period will be reduced.

• Pick only ripe berries. In order to get truly mouth-watering berries, you need to pick them only when they are ripe, best in sunny weather and in the afternoon. It has been noticed that it is at this time that it is especially juicy and sweet, since the sugar level is elevated, and wateriness, on the contrary, is minimal. There are varieties that, even after they turn red, have not yet reached technical maturity, so consider the characteristics of the variety when harvesting.
• Use the mechanism of organic farming. Organically cultivated strawberries contain more antioxidants and beneficial vitamins than those cultivated using chemical farming techniques. The use of natural dressings allows not only to make the taste brighter and richer, but also more environmentally friendly and, accordingly, safe for children and adults.

Do not forget to loosen the plant, as garden strawberries prefer free access of air to the roots. These works should be carried out at least twice a month. Starting from the second year of the plant's life, the bushes should be hilled, as adventitious roots are formed in the near-stem zone.

Follow the watering regime. The plant needs water, especially in June, when both berries and mustaches are growing. Moreover, watering should be continued after harvesting, since at this moment roots and buds are formed for the next growing season.

If you properly care for the plant, feed and water it in time, then you will definitely get a good harvest of hard, juicy and sweet berries.

More details about proper care for strawberries you will learn from the following video.

Strawberries are found on almost every garden plot. Unpretentious and useful berry thrives in temperate climates and is cultivated in many countries. But its cultivation requires a certain experience, only if all the rules are followed, you can get a good harvest.

Characteristics of strawberries

Strawberries are plants and berries of green and nutmeg strawberries. The very word "strawberry" means "club", "spherical". It's perennial herbaceous plant belongs to the rose family. It has large, trifoliate leaves, oval or ovoid, green. Petioles reach 40 cm in height. The roots are fibrous, germinate to a depth of 20-25 cm.

Inflorescence in the form of a few, - or many-flowered corymbs. Strawberry flowers are white, yellow or pink. They are unisexual, five-petalled, pollinated by insects, located on long peduncles.

The fruits are complex, conical in shape, are false berries (multi-nuts). seeds Brown are located outside. The color of the berries is usually bright, red. The pulp is juicy, fragrant.

Strawberry not blooming

Varieties

There are hundreds of varieties of strawberries. Only 73 varieties are registered in Russia.

In order for the yield to be high and the berries to be tasty, you need to choose elite varieties:

1. Temptation. Hybrid. Early ripe, large-fruited variety. High degree of productivity - about 3 kg of berries are harvested from one bush. Pulp with a slight musky flavor.
2. Queen Elizabeth 2. The pride of Russian breeders. In one season, 2 crops are obtained. The taste of the pulp is sweet, honey. This remontant variety has excellent transportability, frost resistance.
3. Mara de bois. Hybrid. The berries are round, very sweet. The variety has high frost resistance.
4. Honey. Very popular american variety early maturation. Resistant to bad weather, gray mold, tick attack. Used in industrial preparations.
5. Masha. Early maturing variety, very different large berries. One berry reaches a mass of 100 g. It has good survival and disease resistance.
6. Kimberly. Dutch hybrid. Heart-shaped fruit, caramel flavor with slight sourness. One berry can weigh from 15 to 20 g. One of the advantages of the variety is a low degree of mustache formation.
7. Gigantella. Very large fruits, the weight of one berry can rise up to 125 g. The pulp is characterized by juiciness and a sweet, slightly pineapple taste. Holds up well to transportation.

Regardless of the variety chosen, high strawberry yields can only be achieved with proper care.

Strawberries do not bloom: reasons

Every gardener may face the vagaries of strawberries due to agricultural errors. Strawberries fade, but give only a meager and small harvest. It happens that there are no fruits at all, since there was not even flowering. Strawberries do not bloom, what to do?

Late boarding

If the strawberries do not bloom, the reasons lie in the belated planting. Correct term landing corresponds to the second half of summer - the end of July or the beginning of August. For middle lane Russia's planting deadline is shifted to early September. Until the first cold days, strawberries are firmly rooted, laying berry buds for the future harvest.

Late boarding

If the landing is in more than late dates, then the flowers in the spring can not wait. All its energy is spent on the development of the root system and leaves, and there is no time left for the formation of buds. Therefore, the harvest is postponed until next year.

The gardener can only strengthen the care of such seedlings in anticipation of the next year. If the care is correct, then the strawberries will bloom and produce a crop. If the strawberries could not bloom, then you need to look for other reasons.

Age

If strawberries do not bear fruit well, then the reason may be at her age. Bushes growing in the same place for more than 5 years are considered old. They bloom worse, give too small berries. Landings will have to be updated. For this, old bushes are removed and burned, and young ones are planted in their place.

no pollination

Why don't strawberries set after prolonged rainy weather? This is due to the lack of insect pollinators. Sometimes bees and bumblebees disappear due to the destruction of their nests during agricultural work. To attract insects again, you need to stop treating strawberries with insecticidal preparations. Flowering bushes are sprayed with a warm solution of water with a small amount of anise or coriander oil.

Water and nutrition scarcity

Water and nutrition scarcity

Strawberries bloom poorly insufficient watering, lack of top dressing. It is necessary to feed and water the plants regularly until September, especially in August, when flower buds are formed for the next year.

Overfeeding

A large amount of nitrogen-containing fertilizers will also prevent strawberries from blooming. Excessive feeding only leads to the growth of foliage, strawberries "fatten". The number of mustaches may increase. The use of nitrogen-containing fertilizers should be stopped, and the foliage should be cut. Abundant watering is needed to flush out excess nitrogen from the soil. You can make phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. A year later, the harvest will be able to rise again.

Weevil

Often the gardener notices that the strawberries do not have time to bloom, as the buds dry up and fall off. It is worth examining plants for weevil attacks. The reason is that the pest lays its eggs in the buds, so strawberries do not develop berries. The fight against insects consists in the autumn collection and burning of plant residues, loosening the soil.

Weevil

After the appearance of buds next year, you need to use the insecticidal drug "Fitoverm", "Admiral", "Iskra-Bio". Spraying is done in the early morning so that the poison has time to stop its action before night. Processing is carried out a week before flowering.

Diseases

The absence of berries may be due to the disease powdery mildew and leaf spot. Therefore, in the spring it is necessary to carry out prevention.

In order for flower stalks to be able to tie berries, it is necessary to provide for the following preventive measures:

• removal of dried leaves after thawing snow;
• loosening the earth;
• the first spraying with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture in the spring and the second - with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture on the eve of flowering;
• spraying with insecticides from weevils after the appearance of peduncles;
• collection and destruction of damaged buds with weevil larvae;
• processing strawberries with Bordeaux mixture after harvesting.

Little light

Little light

Strawberries do not grow well, what should I do? This berry loves the sun. Strawberries planted in the shade slow down their development, cannot grow, do not bloom. The leaves become pale, and the petioles become long. We'll have to transplant it along with a clod of earth to a more lit place.

hypothermia

In a frosty winter with little snow, strawberries may be without snow cover. The freezing of the heart causes the lack of flowering. It is not worth harvesting frozen strawberries, as they can recover over the summer and bloom the next year. In order to avoid hypothermia, the plants are covered with agrofibre, leaf litter, spruce branches, and are engaged in snow retention. It is also necessary to cover strawberries during return spring frosts.

Darkening of the middle of the flower is a sure sign of strawberry frostbite. The risk of hypothermia arises from the wrong location. Do not plant strawberries in lowlands that accumulate cold stagnant air.

Unsuitable soil

Unsuitable soil

Strawberries do not bear fruit, what should I do? Perhaps the problem lies in heavy clay soils. All the strength of the plant goes only to the formation of a mustache. Such soil needs the introduction of humus, coarse sand. It is good to place the beds on a slight elevation, it is recommended to prudently make drainage.

landing errors

Too deep or high planting of the seedling leads to the fact that the bush never bloomed. The correct position of the strawberry heart is on the same level with the ground. A deeply planted plant needs to be dug up, and a too high planting is corrected by adding earth.

Wrong kind

If the strawberries bloomed well, but there were no berries, what is the reason? By mistake or as a result of deceit, weed varieties of strawberries can be purchased. The wild game does not give berries, instead it grows rapidly, filling the whole space with itself. Wild varieties may even bloom, but the berries will grow small and in minimal quantity. If the situation repeats for 2 years, then the plants will have to be removed. Quality varieties adapted to the climate must be purchased in specialized stores.

Wrong thinning

Wrong thinning

Gardeners are faced with the fact that from year to year there are many flowers on strawberries, but no berries. Strawberries may flourish but fail to yield. An inexperienced gardener concludes that strawberries have degenerated. The fact is that strawberries have one feature. A bush with male flowers is more developed and massive. Mustaches and rosettes are stronger and stand out noticeably against the background of frail and small female bushes.

While thinning rows, the gardener seeks to get rid of weaker specimens by mistakenly removing bushes with female flowers. Over and over again, their numbers decrease in favor of male plants. But for normal pollination and fruiting, only 15-20% of plants with male flowers are needed.

In order for strawberries to bloom, you must follow the rules for planting and caring for the plant. The choice of a place for a strawberry bed to a large extent affects the yield. The most successful location of the beds is southwest. Do not place strawberries in the shade of trees.

Strawberries grow poorly in place after eggplant, tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, potatoes and peppers. You can use a place for planting after carrots, legumes, parsley, beets, garlic, radishes. Landing should be done in light soil, with good aeration. Before planting, the soil is fertilized with humus and compost. It is good to create bulk beds.

It is recommended to take seedlings in cups so that the root system is closed. The length of the root should be about 5 cm, and 2-3 leaves should be present on the bush itself. To increase the survival rate of seedlings, experienced gardeners during planting, pinch the longest spine. You need to leave only 3 leaves, remove the rest. These actions will allow seedlings to take root better.

It is recommended to plant after rain or watering so that the soil is sufficiently moist. Before planting, a box with seedlings is kept in a cool place for 5 days. When planting, you need to place the neck of the bush at ground level, the roots should take a vertical position.

Need care

important proper watering, 2-3 times a week. In dry weather, watering is carried out as the soil dries. Moisture must penetrate into the soil to a depth of at least 5 cm. Throughout the growing season, strawberries require abundant watering.

Top dressing is done three times per season:

1. After planting in the ground, strawberries need phosphorus.
2. Before flowering, potassium must be added.
3. After harvesting, it is worth fertilizing with phosphorus and nitrogen.

To make strawberries bloom and form a good harvest, it is necessary to prune the tendrils and young shoots, as well as diseased leaves creeping along the ground, dry twigs. Do not neglect weeding. All these procedures contribute to increasing the yield of berries.

In order for strawberries to retain abundant flowering and fruiting from year to year, the method of transplanting it to a new place is used. After the third season, the bushes are dug up along with the rhizome and burned, as old plants produce a poor quality crop. Only healthy and strong specimens aged no more than 2 years are suitable for transplantation.

Transfer times:

• in autumn, it is good to transplant young bushes from the mustache of an old plant;
• in the spring, bushes obtained from seeds during home cultivation are transplanted.

Strawberry Propagation Methods

Propagation of strawberries is carried out in 3 ways: with the help of seeds, mustaches, division.

Propagation by seeds is usually used to develop a new variety. With this method, there is a high probability of obtaining a plant that differs in properties from the parent. Seeds are taken from the dried outer layer of a ripe berry. In March, the seeds are placed in a container, sprinkled with soil, placed in a warm and bright place, sprayed with water. After a month, you can see shoots. After the formation of 2-3 leaves, the seedlings dive, planting in separate containers. In May, planting is carried out in the ground.

A convenient way to propagate strawberries is with a mustache from vegetative buds. Take no more than a couple of first whiskers from the strongest 1-2 summer plants, the rest are removed. On each of them, only the first rosette is left, cutting off the ends of the mustache. The rooted mustache is separated from the mother bush only in August, 7 days before transplanting to a new place.

By division, you can propagate remontant strawberries that do not give a mustache. A productive, well-developed 3-4 year old bush is dug up and divided with a knife. Each of the seedlings must have an intact horn and at least 3 leaves. Division is carried out in spring or autumn, after fruiting is completed.

The problems of the lack of strawberry flowering and low yield will not arise if the rules of agricultural care for care are followed.

It happens that the strawberry fades and gives a meager harvest from small berries, and sometimes it does not bear fruit at all, and does not even bloom.

The question arises before gardeners: why strawberries do not bloom and do not bear fruit - all berry lovers want to know the reasons for such an unusual phenomenon. We will find out what causes problems with the flowering and fruiting of garden strawberries in order to prevent their occurrence in the future.

The absence of flower stalks or abundant crops is possible for a number of reasons:

late boarding

The young strawberry, planted last August, does not have time to form before the frost. flower buds, because it gives all its strength to building up the root system. Such plants will give a harvest only next year.

In order to avoid "downtime" in fruiting, we plant young rosettes at the end of July, then they will have time to take root, form buds for flowering and will please you with a good harvest next summer.

frostbite

If the middle of the flower darkened, they were beaten by frost: the petals do not suffer at the same time - the stigmas freeze. Reason: the bushes are planted in the lowlands, where a lot of stagnant cold air accumulates in the cold.

Before frost, we cover the plantings with a good covering material such as jute, lutrasil or agril, simply laying it on top. If the strawberry is covered with polyethylene, be sure to put arcs so that the flowers do not freeze due to contact with cold cellophane.

In calm weather, you can water the plants abundantly before freezing: the air will stay warm longer.

bush obsolescence

Strawberries that have been growing in one place for more than 5 years are getting old, bloom poorly and produce few berries, they become smaller.

It remains to completely renew the plantings by cutting down the old bushes (we definitely burn them) and replacing them with young ones.

freezing

Varieties more suitable for warm climatic zones may freeze slightly in Siberian conditions. But sometimes even winter-hardy bushes freeze when the wind blows snow from the ridges.

In order to avoid freezing, we transfer the strawberries to a site protected from the winds, or cover it for the winter with covering material or put up a wind barrier made of slate sheets.

Lack of pollination

Faded plants do not produce ovaries due to long rains, which did not allow bees and other insects to pollinate the flowers. Another reason is the disease of bees or the destruction of bumblebee nests during agricultural work.

Attract insects by spraying blooming strawberries warm water, dissolving in it a little coriander or anise oil. And, when strawberries bloom, we stop treating the bushes with insecticides.

Lack of moisture or nutrition

Poor yields and poor flowering of bushes that are 2-4 years old indicate a lack of moisture or depletion of the soil.

Since the flower buds for the next year are laid in garden strawberries in August, we regularly feed the plants until September and water them as needed.

Bad varieties

If long-planted bushes do not produce berries, you made a mistake with the variety and acquired weed varieties such as Dubnyaka, Zhmurka, Bakhmutka or Suspension. They either do not bloom, or bloom with a barren flower. The same goes for varieties that are not suitable for growing in your climate.

Strawberries do not bloom, what to do? Get rid of such plants and buy new ones, from specialty stores, not from hand, and suitable for your climate.

Strawberry weevil attack

Drying and falling of the buds, drying of the pedicels indicates that the plants were attacked by the strawberry weevil, which laid its eggs in the buds.

In order to destroy the pest and its offspring, in the fall we collect and burn plant residues, loosen the soil near the bushes. The next year, immediately after the buds appear in the early morning (with later procedures, the poison will not disintegrate until nightfall, and you will destroy beneficial insects, eating harmful) we spray garden strawberries with an insecticide such as "Fitoverma", having time to carry out the treatment a week before flowering.

So, you know why strawberries do not bloom and do not bear fruit, the causes and solutions to problems. It remains to take into account all the recommendations, provide the berries with proper care and avoid buying seedlings from unknown people.