Do-it-yourself replacement of a tee in a sewer riser. Replacing the tee of the sewer riser. Purpose of fan pipes

A tee is one of the most sought-after types of styles. On sale you can find products for sewerage made of cast iron from several types of plastic. On which of them to choose?

And most importantly - how is the sewer tee replaced? Let's figure it out.

Material selection

So, given: the tee connecting the sewer riser to your intra-apartment wiring is cracked or rotten. It needs to be replaced. What is the best choice to make?

First, let's get acquainted with what we have to choose from.

• The main advantage of cast iron is its exceptional mechanical strength.. He is only afraid of shock loads; compressive or tensile load will not cause deformation or chipping. The service life can be estimated at 25 years or more.
• Polyvinyl chloride is the most popular material. 80 - 90% of plastic sewage is currently made from it. The service life is at least 50 years; the material is moderately plastic, is afraid of impacts and breaks under significant loads.
• Polypropylene is somewhat lighter than PVC; at the same time, it has greater rigidity, thermal and wear resistance. Service life does not differ from PVC.

Please note: on sale you can find the so-called silent plastic sewer. It has a multilayer structure and increased thickness. If a cast-iron riser, which perfectly muffles the sound, opens with a plastic tee, it is better to stop on a silent tee.

How does the current cost of materials compare? Yes, the difference in the cost of fashion in any case will not harm the family budget, but it is still interesting to correlate the costs in each of the cases.

As a researcher, we will serve exactly what needs to be replaced - a straight tee with all branches with a diameter of 110 mm.

The notorious multilayer structure and increased wall thickness can increase the cost of plastic fittings by 1.2 - 1.5 times.

Now let's think about the choice.

It seems that strength is an undoubted advantage, for which you can overpay a couple of hundred rubles.

Only now the strength of the tee will be in demand only when the section of the riser above it draws down. Actually, it is this drawdown that most often leads to a crack in the tee.

Note: in this case, the cast-iron style will not prevent subsidence, it will only prevent the mass of the riser from quickly splitting it.

If so, we prefer light, cheap and durable plastic. Which one - PVC or PP - is purely a matter of personal preference. As we have already found out, the performance of plastics in our case is almost the same.

Replacement

It seems that a kitchen or a sewerage system mounted under a bathroom - a 50-50-50 tee through which drains are drained from a bathtub or washbasin - will not require any special skills to replace. Let's focus on how to replace the tee in the riser with your own hands.

We will need:

• Actually a tee.
• Compensating pipe of the same diameter.
• Rubber cuff - an adapter from a cast-iron socket to a plastic pipe.

Lifting and fixing the riser

Start with a secure fix.

Otherwise, its subsidence after dismantling part of the riser will lead to a leak from the ceiling or collapse of the seal of the mounting hole.

1. We turn off the water in the riser and warn the neighbors about the upcoming work.
2. We remove the toilet bowl and disconnect the comb (internal sewerage).

In the photo - the dismantling of the comb and outlet to the toilet.

1. At a height of 1-1.5 m from the floor, we drill a hole in the wall behind the riser, as close as possible to it, with a drill with a diameter of 9.5 mm.
2. We drive a piece of 10 mm smooth reinforcement into it.
3. We tighten the riser with a thick wire a couple of centimeters below the reinforcement. An impromptu clamp should not slip through the pipe.
4. We put another similar clamp directly above the tee and, using a lever (crowbar or pipe), lift the pipe by this clamp until it stops.
5. Securely tighten the top clamp to the armature.

Dismantling

1. With a chisel or perforator, we beat off the concrete embedment, freeing the tee and the socket under it.

Attention: pieces of concrete that have fallen into the riser can become.

1. With a screwdriver, using a light hammer, we remove the cement seal from the socket of the tee and, if possible, the cable.
2. We cut the riser at a distance slightly greater than the length of the compensating pipe, from the socket under the tee. We make another cut 10 cm lower and remove a piece of pipe.
3. By turning the tee manually or with a gas wrench, we remove it and clean the socket under it.

Installation

What does it look like to replace a cast-iron sewer tee with a plastic one?

1. The riser above the cut to the length of the compensator socket is cleaned of paint and debris.
2. A collar is installed directly under the cut - ordinary, plastic, from the store. He has to keep the compensator from shifting.
3. The compensating pipe is pulled over the cleaned section of the pipe. As a lubricant, you can use ordinary or liquid soap.
4. The tee is inserted into the socket of the riser by means of a rubber cuff.

The tee is the most demanded shaped element. For a sewage device, it can be cast iron or plastic. The choice of a particular type will depend on the specific situation and several important nuances.

Often, when repairing a riser or replacing it, it becomes necessary to replace the sewer tee. This can be done on your own or with the help of specialists. In the first case, it is important to have basic knowledge and follow a clear sequence of actions. So, it should immediately be noted that tees can be oblique and straight. Such elements are used for various angles of connection to the sewer riser.

Installation of a plastic sewer tee and connection with a cast-iron pipe

The sewer cross is changed in such situations:

• if you need to reduce the level of placement of this element;
• if this part is already worn out to a large extent.

The reasons for replacing the cross also include the impossibility of cleaning the sewer system in the event of serious deposits on internal surfaces pipeline.

What material should the sewer tee be made of?

Most often, situations occur when the tee, which connects the riser to the intra-apartment wiring, cracks or rots. Then you can not do without replacing it. As a result, the question arises, on the product of which material to choose?

connection of plastic pipes with cast iron

To choose the right part, it is important to familiarize yourself with the range of products available:

• cast iron tees have good mechanical strength. Despite this, such elements are afraid of shock loads. As for the compressive and tensile load, you should not be afraid that this will cause deformation or chipping. The average life of the product is about 25 years;
• The modern material for the manufacture of tees is considered to be polyvinyl chloride. Most of the plastic sewerage is made from this material. The service life in this case will be at least 50 years. The advantages include plasticity, and the disadvantages are splitting under heavy loads and impacts;
• the best material is polypropylene, which is lighter than PVC products, while it has good rigidity, wear resistance and resistance to temperature extremes. In this case, the service life will be the same as in the previous version.

Now on sale there is a silent plastic sewer, which has a multilayer structure and is characterized by a greater thickness. If there is a need to open the cast-iron riser, then it is more expedient to give preference to a silent product.

For some, the ratio of the cost of materials is of considerable importance, since it can vary greatly, which affects the family budget. For example, consider the need to replace a straight tee, the diameter of which is 110 mm, which has all the necessary bends. The cost of such an element can be increased one and a half times due to the use of a multilayer structure and increased thickness of the surfaces. Of course, such parameters turn out to be attractive, so many do not mind overpaying 100-200 rubles.

When making a choice, you should know that a durable tee in more needed when the section located above it draws down, since it is because of this that the tees often crack. Please note that the cast iron product does not prevent subsidence, it only prevents it from quickly splitting.

plumbing plastic pipes in the bathroom

In this case, it is advisable to give preference to lighter, more durable and inexpensive plastic. What will be PVC material or PP, does not have special significance, since the performance characteristics of plastics are almost the same.

Tee Replacement

Sooner or later, the time comes when a sewer tee needs to be replaced, mounted under a bathtub or other plumbing fixture. To replace it yourself, you need to follow certain instructions. In addition, it is important to prepare such items in advance:

• directly the tee itself;
• of the same diameter, you need to buy a compensating pipe;
• a rubber cuff is required to go from a cast-iron socket to a plastic pipe.

Work should begin with fixing the pipe over the sewer tee. If this condition is not met, its subsidence may occur, which can lead to leakage and collapse of the mounting hole.

So, the process should be performed in the following sequence:

• on the riser, you need to turn off the water, warning the neighbors in advance about the plumbing work;
• the toilet bowl is dismantled and the internal sewerage is disconnected;
• a hole should be drilled in the wall behind the riser using a drill with a diameter of 9.5 mm, while the level of this hole should be about one and a half meters from the floor;
• then a 10 mm piece of smooth reinforcement is driven in;
• the riser must be pulled with wire at a level slightly below the reinforcement;
• it is impossible to allow such a clamp to slip through the pipe;
• the same clamp must be applied over the tee, lifting the pipe with a crowbar for it until it stops;
• the clamp located above must be securely pulled to the armature.

installation of sewer pipes and their connection to the riser

Dismantling works

• Using a chisel or puncher, you need to beat off the concrete embedment for easy removal of the tee and socket that are under it.
• In the process of performing these works, it is important to be extremely careful, because the sewer may become clogged due to pieces of concrete that have fallen into the riser.
• Using a screwdriver and a light hammer, you need to dismantle the cement seal and the cable from the socket of the tee, if possible.
• The riser is cut at a distance slightly greater than the length of the compensating pipe, namely under the tee from the socket. The next cut should be about 10 cm lower. After that, a piece of pipe can be safely removed.
• The tee can be removed with a gas wrench or manually, only it is important to turn it. After removing the part, clean the socket located under it.

Installation work

To replace a cast-iron sewer tee with a plastic element, you need to follow a certain sequence of work:

• it is necessary to clean the riser from contaminants above the incision and old paint for the length of the socket;
• a simple purchased plastic clamp is placed directly under the incision. Its role is to keep the compensator from moving;
• then a compensating pipe should be pulled onto the cleaned section of the pipe. For ease of the process, you can treat the element with liquid or ordinary soap;
• using a rubber cuff, the tee must be carefully inserted into the socket;
• if the process is carried out correctly, the compensator should fit into the upper socket of the tee, after which it is fixed with a clamp;
• at the end of the work, the toilet bowl is installed and the comb is connected.

connection of the sewer riser and plastic pipes

To perform the work, you need to acquire the following tools and materials:

• new cross;
• compensating clutch;
• tape measure;
• hacksaw;
• pencil;
• gloves
• A 20 cm piece of pipe, the diameter of which can be up to 3 cm.

Phased work

• At the first stage, there are preparatory work. In advance, you need to ask the neighbors from above not to use the sewer for a while. It is easier if plumbing processes are performed on the top floor.
• At the second stage, the pipe is marked for its correct cutting. To do this, you need to retreat 7.5 cm from the upper border of the socket, making a mark for cutting. To make an even cut, it is recommended to use the method of welders. The pipe is wrapped with newspaper and the edge is evenly aligned. Further marking is performed along the entire circumference. You don’t need to cut right away, you should remove the pipes that are connected to the cross. If special cuffs are used to fix the riser to the wall, then they must be removed.
• Now you need to clean the work area from impurities. And prevent a possible drain from forgetful neighbors. To do this, the cover of the viewing tee is unscrewed, then a condom is inserted into the part of the pipe located above this hole. It, as a rule, is put on in advance on the tip of the tube and tied with a thread. Now you need to inflate it and tie it. Performing such actions, you can save yourself from impurities for a while. Despite these precautions, work must be done quickly.
• At the last stage, the pipe is cut according to a pre-prepared markup. The upper area is deflected to the side to dismantle the old cross. Putting on gloves, the old element is carefully removed, while a new cross is installed in its place. Now a compensator should be put on the pipe to make it easier, it is recommended to apply a soapy solution to the sealing cuff of the compensator.

We can say that the main part of the work is done. After that, it is required to pierce the condom and screw the cover of the revision hole back on. If necessary, plugs are installed on the outlets of the cross or pipes are brought to it, which are then fixed to the wall using fasteners.

Despite the warning, some neighbors forget about the request not to use the sewer, so it is recommended to have an empty basin on hand that can be substituted while draining sewage.

Residential buildings of the Soviet and earlier eras are equipped mainly with cast iron sewer networks. Old houses with a Khrushchev-type layout have cast-iron pipelines and are designed for a standard service life of up to 70 years. In fact, the owners of five-story apartment buildings need to replace the sewer much earlier. The reason for this may be the carrying out of repair work on the redevelopment of the apartment, major or current repairs, requiring a total replacement. engineering networks in the apartment: plumbing and repair of the sewer pipe in the apartment.

Changing the sewer line

Before changing the sewer pipes in the apartment, they outline a plan for dismantling.

Currently, an alternative pipeline for cast iron is PVC sewer pipeline. The phased replacement of sewer pipes and the repair sequence consists of the following types of work:

1. Disconnecting plumbing fixtures from existing sewers. If it is planned to reuse household plumbing fixtures, then in this case it is recommended to dismantle it carefully and carefully in order to preserve the material. Old toilets were usually installed with a cement joint to the sewer pipe, so to remove it you have to break the joint with a hammer and clean it in parts;
2. Dismantling of existing horizontal sewer pipes made of cast iron;
3. Obsolete pipes can be dismantled with a heavy rubber mallet or wooden sledgehammer. In some cases, with good preservation of pipelines during dismantling, an angle grinder circular saw with a diamond blade is used;
4. Dismantling of the existing sewer riser. At this stage, it is best for the owner of an apartment in a multi-storey building to ask the neighbors of the upper floors not to use the sewer. If the owners of the upper and lower apartments are not going to replace the common sewer riser, then in this case there is only one way out - using a grinder saw, carefully cut the existing riser at ceiling level at a distance of 100 mm from the ceiling and 80 mm from the floor level;
5. The upper and lower uneven cut lines of the cast-iron sewer riser are carefully cleaned with a grinder equipped with a stripping removable disk.

Important! Sewer repairs in the apartment are carried out with the obligatory observance of safety regulations and the use of personal protective equipment: goggles and respirators.

New sewer line

After the dismantling of the outdated cast-iron sewerage engineering networks from cast iron is completed, you can proceed with the installation of a new central drainage pipeline. Any sewerage scheme consists of such elements as:

• Central vertical drainage riser pipe 100 mm;
• Sewer tee with a diameter of 100 mm for connecting the toilet bowl of the bathroom;
• Drainage pipes with a diameter of 50 mm connected to the bathtub, sink, washbasin, dishwasher, washing machine.

The most crucial moment of repair work on the replacement of sewers is the installation of a new sewer riser.

Installation subtleties

Replacing sewerage in Khrushchev is carried out in the following order:

1. Before starting work, it is necessary to caulk the existing openings of the sewer pipe with a lump of rolled-up polyethylene, which will prevent debris from entering the pipeline;
2. Special seals in the form of a cuff made of dense rubber are inserted into the upper and lower cuts of the existing pipeline. The surface of the rubber joints must be coated with silicone sealant. Such a protective measure eliminates the possibility of fluid leakage during the operation of domestic sewage;
3. After installing the seal, the next step is to install the main part of the sewer riser - an adapter with a diameter of 110 mm from PVC. The connecting fitting is mounted over the rubber seal in the upper and lower parts of the sewer riser. Connections must be airtight and tight;
4. The assembled sewer new riser with taps is installed strictly vertically and fixed on the wall with special clamps with a diameter of 100 mm. Fixing elements are attached to the wall with building plastic dowels. For a standard bathroom, three sewer riser mounts are enough.

After installing the main sewer pipeline, you can proceed with the installation of the vertical part of the drainage pipeline.

Dismantling the old tee

Replacing the sewer tee connecting the toilet to the horizontal drain pipe and the central riser is considered the most time-consuming work. In residential buildings of old construction, bathrooms are equipped with cast-iron tees, completely immured in monolithic concrete. Therefore, to dismantle and replace them, you will need to dismantle part of the floor. Another important problem of replacing this important element is the brittleness of cast iron during the dismantling of the sewer pipeline. One careless shock movement can lead to a chain reaction of destruction of the sewer riser going to the neighbors.

After installing a new polypropylene tee 100x100x100 mm in size, its holes are covered with a thick layer of silicone sealant to create a tight connection with a plastic sewer pipeline.

Installation of horizontal sewerage

After the assembly and installation of the central drainage pipeline, the replacement of the sewerage system in the apartment begins. Pipe sewer wiring to the points of connection of household appliances is made of pipes with a diameter of 50 mm and combines all the elements of water disposal into a single home sewer network. To repair the sewer, direct plastic pipes and various fittings.

Table of slopes and diameters of domestic sewers

plumbing fixture	bias	Distance between the central sewer riser and the siphon, mm	Horizontal pipeline diameter, mm
Bath	1:30	100-300	40-50
Shower	1:48	150-170	40-50
Toilet	1:20	up to 600	100
Sink	1:12	0-80	40-50
Bidet	1:20	70-100	30-40
Washing	1:36	130-150	30-40
Sink with shower	1:48	170-230	50
Central drainage riser			100
Branches from the central sewer riser			65-75

Since the liquid drains by gravity in the sewer pipeline of the apartment, during installation, the sewer line must be laid with a slope towards the riser. To solve this problem, you need to know the exact arrangement of plumbing fixtures and other elements of drainage.

Purpose of fan pipes

The fan pipe can be considered as a kind of ventilation hood of the central sewer riser.

In fact, it is a continuation of the sewer drainage pipe with a diameter of 110 mm. So that they do not appear in the house sewer unpleasant odors and harmful gases did not accumulate, the upper part is placed above the level of the roof covering and goes directly into the air atmosphere. To protect against rain and snow, the fan pipe is covered from above with a protective cap in the form of a fungus.

Pipe repair instruction

Replacing the vent pipe is a necessary measure when general repair domestic sewer system. The simplified work plan consists of the following activities:

• dismantling of the old fan pipe;
• installation of a new structure.

In Khrushchev houses, fan pipes were installed from cast-iron pipes. Specific gravity 1 meter of a cast-iron sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is 25 kg. If you make a simple arithmetic calculation, then you can understand that when dismantling a 3-meter-long gray cast-iron fan pipe, the weight of the dismantled structure will be about 100 kg. Therefore, it is unsafe to carry out dismantling on your own, it is difficult to hold such a significant weight in your hands.

Replacing a drain pipe is similar to replacing a sewer riser. The only difference is that another vent portion of the pipe is added, extending beyond the roof structure.

Replacement of external sewerage

The problem of deterioration of external sewer communications often leads to serious accidents. Therefore, there is an urgent need for emergency emergency repairs. Many city dwellers are familiar with a similar picture: a blocked part of the street with a large amount of earthmoving equipment and heaps of earth near an open pit. Replacing the sewer pipes of the external pipeline in an open way is associated with great inconvenience and difficulties. After all, often at the location of sewer pressure and non-pressure pipelines there are other underground communications plumbing, electrical power cables, communications.

Alternative sewer replacement method

An alternative solution for the open method of repairing external pipelines is trenchless sewer repair. In dense urban areas, this replacement method has gained its popularity due to obvious advantages:

• Reduction of production costs. With trenchless replacement, there is no need to use earth-moving equipment for excavation and removal of soil;
• Reduction of the duration of work on the replacement of sewerage;
• Sewer replacement is carried out by a small number of workers;
• To carry out the work, it is not required to issue a special permit - an order for earthworks;
• No risk of injury to others engineering communications. With the trenchless method, the new sewer pipeline line runs along the old route;
• The possibility of laying a pipeline of a larger diameter, which increases the capacity of the sewer;
• No interference with the movement of urban vehicles and pedestrians.

Trenchless replacement of sewers in urban environments makes it possible to quickly restore emergency sections of pressure sewers. What is the trenchless replacement method?

There are several types of trenchless replacement of sewer pipelines. The most popular is the laying of a new sewage system according to the "pipe in pipe" principle. Worn-out sewer pipes are replaced with special polyethylene pipes. For this work, special equipment is used - a pipe pulling device with a pneumatic drive. Repair work are conducted from one sewer well to another. Modern technologies allow you to replace the external sewer pipeline of considerable length in two to three days.

Using the trenchless replacement method, it is possible to repair not only sewer networks, but also replace the water pipe line.

Video

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At the very beginning of the toilet repair, at the stage of dismantling the toilet bowl, sink, water and sewer pipes, I came across an unexpected problem in the form of a riser leak. The house is practically new - 3 years of construction. There were no problems prior to the repair. But after the drain pipes were disconnected, and the holes in the cross of the riser were plugged with plugs, the riser dripped.
Well, not like a river. Not even a stream, but such an almost imperceptible drip leak. However, she did not give rest. All this was aggravated by the fact that it was already time to start building a new wall of the plumbing box. And after its erection, access to the lower elements of the sewer riser will be seriously complicated. The reason for the digging was not amenable to any explanation.

Everything looked like this. The lowest joint of the pipes of the riser, or rather the pipe sticking out of the floor and the crosspiece inserted into it, was constantly wet. However, there was no evidence that water was getting in from above. Moreover, upon closer examination with a flashlight, periodic ejection of drops from the lower tube was clearly observed. Actually, this gave rise to the version that the cause of the leak is a poor-quality or missing sealing rubber cuff of the pipe.

One way or another, earlier I still thought about replacing the tee, since two more clients were added at the riser: washing machine and a dishwasher in the kitchen next door. Earlier in the bathroom, we easily changed the tee of the riser together with the godfather, spending 20 seconds on this procedure. But I didn’t really want to change the tee at the obviously current sewer riser on my own. As far as I know, risers, both sewer and water, are the responsibility of the DEZ. Therefore, I called there and invited the plumber Vasily, the author of the legendary phrase "domestic valve with a cap under the stuffing box," to 18:00.

Vasily agreed that the reason was probably the lack of a cuff. However, he said that it would be better for me to invite a team to repair the riser for tomorrow morning or afternoon. To this, I assured him that he could count on me as a member of the brigade, and that if a two-man brigade was enough, then it was time to start repairs right now.

Okay, let's look at the cuff first! - Vasily decided and the procedure began.

We must change! But how to disassemble the sewer riser?

Really? HOW? Now everything will be told in detail.

No- I will tell those who think that in order to remove the pipe from the riser, the entire assembly is fed up or down - this is unrealistic, since the pipes sticking out of the ceiling and floor are fixed quite thoroughly.

And not so- there will be an answer to those who believe that the riser should be deflected to the side and then its length will increase, which will make it possible to release the element.

In fact, the riser is disassembled very simply! To do this, it provides a special element - compensator. This is a short pipe, the socket of which is significantly longer than the sockets of 5 cm common for all other elements of the route. Thus, this compensator can be pushed onto the top pipe by 15-20 centimeters, which will make it possible to safely disassemble the sewer riser and replace any of its elements .

IMPORTANT! If you decide on such a replacement, then to facilitate the work, you should drop a little machine oil into the joints of the compensator and other elements that you plan to disassemble 2-3 hours before the start. And on the wall it will be quite useful to mark the initial heights of the joints. Just in case.

So. Having fed the compensator up together with all the tees attached to it from below, we took out and opened the lowest connection. Vasily fished out a cuff from the pipe. And while none of the residents of the upper 9 floors decided to wash, or, which is certainly much more fun, flush the toilet, we pushed the crosspiece back into the pipe.
The cuff did not cause any complaints. There was no particular point in changing the cuff, and I suggested that Vasily replace the lower tee with a new cross. Vasily asked to see it, and after examining it, he expressed satisfaction with the quality of the element, finding it higher than that of the existing element. Indeed, all surfaces of the cross were perfectly smooth, in contrast to the noticeably rough old one.

After waiting 3-4 minutes of the state, when the noise of the water inside the sewer subsides, we again moved the compensator up. Vasily inserted a new (just in case) cuff into the lower pipe - 3 seconds. Disconnected the old cross - 2 seconds. Then a bad and very suspicious sound began to appear in the riser! ( drumroll) Growing in strength, like an approaching locomotive, the sound left no doubt that its cause was 6 liters of water from the toilet bowl + a certain amount of human waste products - in liquid or somewhat more solid form.
Having absolutely no desire to verify the type of product with our own eyes, we installed a new cross in the lower branch pipe with well-coordinated movements and moved the compensator and upper tee down, keeping within 3 seconds. The whole replacement took 8 seconds, although the last three seconds, it seemed to me, dragged on for a very long time ...

Such a quick replacement is possible if all the old disconnected and new elements connected are pre-treated with grease at the joints. If there is no machine oil at hand, then, at worst, you can use ordinary sunflower oil.

Installed back all the holders of the riser, we went to wash our hands and wondered:

Why was the sewer line leaking?

The rubber cuff is excluded, the narrowing of the cross was pushed into the lower branch pipe as far as it will go. There is only one reason left - a crack in the cross. And she can only be in one place - in one that could not be seen in any way while she was part of the riser. This is the bottom corner of the tee.

Turning it upside down, we immediately discovered this crack.

Judging by the appearance, the crack was far from fresh. Apparently it clogged from the inside with you-know-what, and when it dried, it formed a sealing layer. However, it was only necessary to slightly move the outlet and this unreliable sealant ceased to fulfill its functions.

You see what a mess! - Vasily pointed his finger at the defective tee.

I only offered to take this with me to the DEZ as evidence of the repair of the riser without calling the emergency brigade. He politely refused.
Just as politely, he did not refuse a small gratitude, and, as it seemed to me, very pleased with the work done and the reason found, he bowed out.

And who is our hero today?

ZYZH: It is clear that it is wrong to draw conclusions about quality based on such a small sample. Therefore, if you have something to say about the quality of a particular manufacturer of PP sewer pipes, please comment!

Good day to everyone, I will describe a simple way to replace the tee on the "rotator". For this we need; ordinary wire cutters, soldering acid, a soldering iron, tweezers and the spinner itself and a new tee). Many have spinners with rusted, deformed, broken hooks, and in order to replace it, it is necessary to disassemble the entire design of the spinner, which is not always convenient, and sometimes impossible without "consequences", because putting back the entire design of the spinner turns into that fetish )

I don’t remember where I saw or read this method, but the bottom line is that this method remained the only acceptable one for me both in terms of time and labor costs.

So, let's start, turn on our soldering iron and wait for it to heat up, any low-power soldering iron will do, about 40W is the very thing, in our store its price is about 100 rubles)) We also need soldering acid, absolutely any and solder, sold in all kinds of "radio engineering" price 20 rubles for a bottle.

On the new tee, we bite the eyelet closer to the forearm and slightly unbend it, so that the eyelet for the tee at the spinner crawls into the resulting gap.

If the Tee has any nano coating)) it is necessary to clean it with scissors paper for 1 ... 1.5 mm from the edges of the gap.

Then we put the tee in the eye of the spinner, bend the eye to its original position, poison with acid (carefully with a toothpick !!!) our stripped edges of the rupture of the tee and solder it with ordinary solder).

That's it, the tee has been replaced. This procedure practically does not affect the strength of the tee (IMHO).

By the way, if you overdo it with acid, it's okay, after soldering, wash the spinner with soap and acid karachun)

I hope that some of the things I wrote will be useful to someone. See you on the waters)