How to make a plywood boat. Do-it-yourself boat: how to make wood and PVC plywood. Materials and tools

Every professional fisherman or hunter is simply obliged to have a boat in his arsenal. At the moment the market is overflowing with a range of boats various models and modifications for different tastes and wealth.

This article will outline detailed description how to create your own boat with your own hands.

Self-assembly of a plywood boat

Many people wonder if it is possible to make a high-quality swimming facility on their own, save on it and enjoy the manufacturing process.

Boats made at home have a number of undeniable advantages over their factory "brothers":

Product weight. When using plywood, the weight is significantly reduced compared to similar wooden or metal models.
The use of solid sheets will allow you to create ideal shapes, which will provide excellent stability and ensure ease of launching.
Minimum final cost. It will be spent, it will only have to Consumables such as plywood, boards and glue, varnish. It is worth noting that much can be found in the garage of a thrifty owner.

People with carpentry skills will spend a week and a half on this work, provided they work in their spare time or two full days.

Dimensions and drawings

Consider the technical capabilities of the future boat in more detail.

Relatively flat and narrowed bottom with a slight rise in the bow and stern. The height of the bow of the side is 540 millimeters, which in turn is more than that of many motor boats of this class.

In order for the overestimated nose not to interfere with the view, a cut is made along the length of the bow by 100 millimeters. The bow is designed in such a way as to facilitate the boarding or disembarking of passengers, as well as loading.

Special cargo compartments are provided under the bow and stern. The design provides for the possibility of using oars and low-power motors up to 8 horsepower.

This model can be safely called multifunctional, as it is perfect for hunting, fishing and just household needs.

It is possible to install a canopy, in case of bad weather conditions, on a special aluminum structure for which nests are provided in the side of the boat.

The greatest length in meters 2.3. Width in meters 1.34

Board height:

The bow is 54 centimeters.
The back is 40 cm.
The height of the stern is 45 centimeters.
Body weight twenty kilograms.
Load capacity 180 kilograms.

Possibility to install an outboard motor from two to eight horsepower.

It is possible to use one oar pair.

Drawing No. 1:

a) Bottom view.
B) Top view.
B) Transom (blanks)

Figure #2. External cladding (sheet preparation):

A) Board.
B) cheekbone.
B) bottom.

Construction materials

To build a homemade boat, you will need some experience with carpentry tools.

Below is a list of the tools you will need:

screwdriver
Manual milling machine.
Manual grinder.
Clamps.
Electric jigsaw.

List of materials for assembly:

Waterproof plywood with a thickness of at least 4 millimeters and dimensions of 2.5 by 1.25 meters and one and a half sheets of 6 millimeters.
Planed boards with a thickness of 25 millimeters.
Rails are wooden.
Brass nails.
Wood screws.
Epoxy resin.
The varnish is waterproof.
Fiberglass.
Beam 50 to 3400
Beam 40 by 20 by 4000

Assembly - detailed instructions, step by step

We make a frame for the sides

The frame is assembled on a workbench, and finished on the ground. You lay a keel on the workbench, to one side of which a sternpost with a pre-attached transom is attached, and to the other side a stem.

The keel part with attached frames and stems is connected with nails.

You should carefully check for the absence of distortions and, if any, carry out an adjustment.

Adjustment can be made by stretching the string between the stem and the transom. After making sure that the axes match, you can finally fix it.

A thin cloth or paper impregnated with thick paint or resin is laid between all joints.

After the stems have been fixed, you can proceed with the installation of the frames.

At a right angle on the frames, a cutout for the keel should be made. For a tight and reliable fastening of the frame, the cut under the keel should be made 0.5 mm narrower than the frame.

The landing should be checked with a tight rope, which should coincide with the beams. By setting the frames at an angle of 90 degrees with respect to the keel, you can finally fix it. After all the operations done, you should set the deflection angle.

For this purpose, you can use a round or rectangular beam, which is temporarily fixed to the ends of the keel from the inside, and an 11 cm beam is inserted between the keel and the beam.

To exclude lateral distortions, the stems and transoms, as well as beams, are fastened with some kind of timber.

Frame sheathing

After that, he will draw the formats of plywood sheets prepared for sheathing in the same dimensions and try on templates for the minimum amount of waste on these sheets.

The contours of natural-sized parts when marking on plywood can be obtained by connecting the points found when setting off the given dimensions from the axes of the parts using a long ruler or pattern.

All parts are cut with a jigsaw with fine teeth, taking into account a margin of 2 - 3 millimeters. For the subsequent joining of the sheets, you will need to add 70 millimeters.

Before gluing, the axes of the parts to be glued should be aligned, using a thread driven between the boards on which the workpiece will be attached.

After the glue has hardened, the same parts of the board should be knocked together with small nails and adjusted to each other with a planer.

Along both edges of the cheekbones at a distance of 12 millimeters, holes with a diameter of 2 millimeters are drilled in increments of 50 millimeters for wire fasteners, which will subsequently be connected.

Fasten the skin should start from the bow of the boat, fastening with copper wire through the holes made along the bottom and side. The wire is twisted from the outside by two or three turns with a slight slack.

Then we sheathe the transom and the bottom of the boat

After the sides are assembled, templates A and B are installed and temporarily fixed at the positions shown on the planking drawing.

Having assembled the bottom according to the same principle that was used when assembling the sides, you should install the transom of the boat and fix it with 3x18 screws at a distance of 50 millimeters using glue.

There is such a possibility that the sides will protrude into the stern beyond the transom, in which case the edges should be trimmed with a planer.

After all the above operations have been done, you should finally tighten all the paper clips with pliers and compress everything from the inside.

Fiberglass

All cracks and joints of the resulting boat should be glued with fiberglass cut into ribbons.

The first layer should be at least 25 millimeters wide, and the next two layers should be at least 80 millimeters, however, it is worth considering that the 2nd and 3rd layers should be offset in different directions from 10 to 15 millimeters.

After the fiberglass has completely hardened, cut off the protruding ends of the wire braces and glue the fiberglass on the outside.

The bottom should be reinforced with planks to increase its rigidity and increase its service life. This is done in this way:

The prepared planks are drilled for screws in increments of 20 - 25 centimeters. After that, the blanks are laid out in places and attached to the screws, marked with a pencil and removed.

The marked places are treated with glue and the blanks are screwed back.

After the glue dries, the screws can be unscrewed and the holes can be hammered with specially prepared nails carved from wood.

After removing the auxiliary devices, all holes in the boat's skin must be puttied with sawdust or wood flour mixed with epoxy.

The inner part of the body is treated with hot drying oil. You can use regular oil-based paint to paint the bottom and cans of the boat.

Adhesive selection

Adhesive material in the construction of boats is used:

Epoxy resins.
Vinyl ester resins.
Resins are polyester.

Let's take a closer look at the above resins:

Epoxy resin - can be safely called a universal resin used in the manufacture of swimming facilities, has found an indispensable application in composite structures and ship repair. These resins in terms of indicators provide the highest quality of the glue line.
Vinyl ester resin is essentially a hybrid compound. Epoxy molecules provide increased strength. Moderate shrinkage during curing, and high strength prevents the formation of cracks during solidification. It is also worth noting the increased toxicity of this type of resin and the rather high cost, in comparison with other types.
Polyester resins - can be safely called the cheapest type of resin, used in the construction of ships using plastic.
The main advantage, in comparison with other types of resins, is the relative cheapness of this product. The disadvantages include only what is used only for gluing fiberglass.
These types of resins are used for the construction of boats and yachts and are used to impregnate products in the plastic reinforcement process.

Regardless of the material, absorbency and adhesion are undoubtedly the key to making a quality boat.

All photos from the article

A do-it-yourself plywood motor boat is interesting to many of our compatriots for two reasons - creative nature and lower cost. Despite the apparent complexity of the project, it can be understood and implemented.

But for this, such a factor as your desire to do this is extremely necessary. In addition, what you did on your own will be morally more expensive for you, so stay tuned and we will show you more videos in this article.

We make a small boat

Note. We will not consider a specific design, for example, do-it-yourself drawings of a folding plywood boat.
Our goal is to tell you about general principles and methods of manufacturing small boats.

Necessary materials and tools

Choice of plywood:

to make a boat out of plywood with your own hands, you, of course, will need this very plywood, only of different thicknesses;
for the hull you will need a sheet thickness of 5 mm, but for the keel and frame you will already need 10-15 mm of thickness(choose the length of the panel depending on the length of the case);
as you understand, quality products are needed here, therefore, you will have to choose either elite E or 1st grade for work- the price, of course, will be higher, but the quality will rise along with it;
moreover, it is important, on which the water resistance and strength of plywood depend - the most the best brands here you can name FSF or FSF-TV (combustible), FB and BS (aviation - also used in shipbuilding).

Solid wood:

for the design of the sides, mounting the seats and arranging the spacers inside the hull of the boat, you will need solid wood;
pine edged board is best suited for this purpose - it is lighter than larch, but due to the resin content, it tolerates getting wet well.

Suture material:

to tighten the body and connect other parts into an integral structure, suture material is needed here;
for this you can use thin steel or copper knitting wire, thick nylon fishing line or plastic clamps.

Tightness:

in order for the boat not to leak, all seams must be sealed with water-repellent glue - at the moment there are a lot of them for sale;
as practice shows, compositions based on polymer resins are best suited for this purpose;
fiberglass is also used to seal the seams - a tape from it is put on glue along the joint;
it is also possible to use fiberglass for this purpose, pasting the sides and bottom with it;
to protect against swelling, water-repellent varnishes and adhesives are used, impregnating the body and lintels with them - for this you can, for example, use bakelite varnish or glue;
in addition to impregnation, you will also need polymer paint, which will complement the moisture resistance and decorate your boat.

Tools:

to make a boat with your own hands from plywood, of course, you will need tools and, first of all, this is a circular saw and / or an electric jigsaw (a hacksaw is also useful);
a set of hand carpentry tools in the form of a hammer, chisels, pliers and the like;
grinding disc or belt machine;
tape or steel clamps;
paint brushes for applying impregnations and paints and varnishes.

Choosing a drawing

Important!
Before you start assembling, find the drawings that are right for you - how to make a boat out of plywood with your own hands, it can be a flat-bottomed boat for fishing that you will use on the weekends or a kayak for camping trips while on vacation.
But if you are already experienced in “shipbuilding”, then you can try to draw such a project yourself, but here it is very important to calculate the carrying capacity so that the craft does not capsize during operation.

A large number of fishermen are convinced that the best fishing equipment can only be made by hand. Fishermen learned how to make not only gear, but also swimming facilities.

The process of building a watercraft is very exciting and allows you to fully realize your creative potential.

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Manufacturing features

When building a boat, it should be borne in mind that the most significant element of the frame part is the base on which the rest of the parts (keel) are attached.

The nasal region is formed by the stem and fixed on one side. In the aft part, the fastening is carried out by a sternpost - elements responsible for ensuring the longitudinal rigidity of the structure.

They can be made on the basis of wooden materials (solid) or glued separately and fixed with nails and screws.

The transverse parts of the hull make it possible to achieve bends and transverse outlines, which adds the necessary rigidity to the craft. In the upper part of the stem and stern, boards are placed that are connected to the frames. This design forms the sides.

The resulting frame is to be sheathed with plywood. A flooring (slan) is laid in the inner part of the boat. Thus, the lower deck is formed.

Boats made of plywood material can be equipped with a motor or oars. The main difference in the design is the stern. For motor boats, a transom (made of multilayer plywood) is installed in the stern.

On request, the boats can be equipped with a cockpit, deck stringers and side stringers. To ensure good buoyancy, the niches must be filled with foam, which will prevent the vessel from capsizing.

Decide on the parameters

Experts presented the most comfortable parameters for a watercraft made on the basis of plywood, the thickness of which is within 5 mm:

The length of the hull (from the bow to the transom) - 4.5 (m);
The width indicator in the widest part of the body (measurements are taken from above) - 1.05 (m);
Boat depth indicator - 0.4 (m).

The most important stage of construction is the construction of a drawing. You can take a ready-made drawing presented on sites on the Internet or make it yourself.

It is very important to carefully study the proposed drawing if the diagram is taken from the Internet. It is recommended to build a scale drawing on graph paper. This will allow you to accurately calculate the elements of the case.

Stages of creating a sketch of a general plan

First of all, you should draw an axial (possibly diametrical) plane - a line dividing the body part along the length into a pair of equal parts. Given the symmetry of the image of the boat, all elements should be adjusted as accurately as possible.
The plane of the diametrical type is divided into proportional segments. Frames will be located in these areas.
Draw a vertical projection swimming facility.
Let's move on to building top view.
We draw plans for frames along the cross lines.
Making sure the locations are consistent and scale of all parts.
Having made a sketch of the frames, we proceed to the construction of its drawing, using a scale of 1 to 1. It is advisable to build drawings on a cardboard base, which will allow you to easily transfer it to plywood.
To ensure the necessary smoothness, you should connect the points with a metal ruler (from the keel to the side area).
Having folded the drawing along the diametrical plane, we check the symmetry. It is very important that the sides repeat their contours with accuracy.

Transferring the image from the template to plywood

After checking the symmetry of all elements, we first transfer the image to a cardboard base. After that, we proceed to transferring the templates to plywood, while accurately observing all the contours. In no case should you make additives for allowances! By transferring the template, the order of the fibers is observed in absolute accuracy.

Materials and tools

When creating a swimming facility, you can not do without the following materials and tools:

screwdriver;
manual milling machine;
grinder (manual type);
clamps;
jigsaw;
waterproof plywood with a thickness of 5 mm (2.5 by 1.25);
waterproof plywood with a thickness of 6 mm (1.5 sheets);
planed boards (at least 25 mm thick);
reek (tree);
nails (brass);
wood screws;
epoxy resin;
varnish (waterproof type);
fiberglass;
timber (50 to 3400);
timber (40 by 20 by 4000).

Manufacturing process

The assembly of the frame part begins on the workbench and ends on the floor (ground).

In order to avoid errors during the assembly process, it is recommended to use the instructions below:

We lay the keel on the workbench.
We attach a sternpost with a transom to one of the sides of the keel. The stem is connected to the second side.
With the help of nails, the keel part (together with the frames) and the stems are connected. We carefully check everything for distortions. If there are any, adjustments must be made. To do this, a string is stretched between the transom and the stem.
Making sure that the axes are completely aligned, we make the final fastening.
Thin fabric soaked in paint(quite thick) and distributed among the available compounds.
After fixing the stems, we proceed to install the frames. To ensure tight fixation, a cut under the keel should be made a little narrower than the frame (a couple of mm).
Landing is checked with a stretched rope. An exact match to the beams must be ensured.
Install frames 90 degree angle is recommended.
We finally fasten the frames.
Having done all the operations, we set the deflection angle. For this purpose, round bars can be used, temporarily fixed to the extreme parts of the keel (on the inside).
We insert between the beam and the keel wooden beam(11 cm).
Fastening is carried out exclusively with bars, which will prevent the occurrence of distortions of the transom.
Let's move on to the frame. It is advisable to transfer the entire sheet sketch to a reduced cardboard size and cut it out.
We draw an image for cutting on plywood(observing sheet dimensions).
Trying out templates.
Cutting with a jigsaw(fine teeth) all details. We make a margin of no more than 2 mm. It is very important to add an additional 70 mm for joining sheets.
Using the threads driven in (between the boards), we combine the axes of the elements. We glue and wait for it to harden.
Using small cloves, shoot down the same parts of the craft.
We carefully customize among themselves with a planer.
We drill holes (2 mm in diameter) stepping back from the edges of the cheekbones 12 mm, observing a step of 50 mm, intended for staples (wire). It is the braces that will become reliable connectors.
The skin is attached starting from the bow of the vessel. It should be fixed with copper wire through the holes that are made along the bottom and side part. The wire is twisted from the outside for a couple of turns.
Next, we make the lining transom and bottom.
Assembled boards to be installed and temporarily connected.
The bottom is assembled according to the same principle, which is the board.
We install the transom and fasten it using screws(3 by 18) and the adhesive base, while maintaining a distance of about 0.5 cm.
If the side elements protrude beyond the transom to the stern, then you can use a planer to align the edges.
Finally twist the paper clips with pliers. We crimp everything in the inner area.
Each slot and joint of the craft must be glued with fiberglass tapes. The width of the first layer should reach 28 mm, subsequent layers - about 75 mm. Positioning each subsequent layer, slightly shift it (on different sides).
After the fiberglass has hardened, the protruding edges of the staples must be removed. We glue the outer area with fiberglass.
To increase the degree of rigidity and increase the service life, it is necessary to reinforce the bottom with planks. To do this, holes for screws are drilled on the planks (the step is 25-28 cm). All blanks laid out in their places are fixed with screws, basted with a felt-tip pen and removed. Only after processing each basting with an adhesive base can the workpieces be screwed into place. After the glue dries, the screws are unscrewed, and the holes formed are clogged with nails that are cut from wood.
Removing accessories, putty with a mixture of epoxy resin with sawdust all the holes in the skin.
The outer part of the boat processed with glue and fiberglass.
Inside the boat is covered hot drying oil.
The ship is painted oil based.

Boat testing

After self-manufacturing boats should go out on it to the reservoir and be sure to test. When checking speed characteristics, it is necessary to create conditions as close to reality as possible. In addition, testing is carried out with different levels of load.

In this case, you can use an independent exit and with two people on board. However, it is desirable that the total weight does not exceed 150 kg. You can measure the speed with a GPS navigator.

It is important to consider that motors with low power (5 hp) can hardly tolerate an increase in load. This situation will be exacerbated if the boat is too short.

Therefore, for such motors, the recommended load does not exceed 90-100 kg, otherwise it will be impossible to switch to planing mode. Sufficient length of the boat and a good motor will allow you to easily go on planing even when fully loaded (150-160 kg).

In the manufacture of a swimming facility, all irregularities are necessary that appear after applying epoxy glue, sand with sandpaper.
Any flaw can be puttied with putty moisture resistant type.
There should not be any special difficulties in the construction of the boat, however, it is extremely important to follow all the recommendations of experts regarding the phased process.
Before cutting the material, you should once again make sure that the measurements are correct. and only after that proceed to cutting out the details.
picking up wooden material for the manufacture of boats, you should give preference to products without the presence of knots and cracks. We select only the highest quality specimens.
With the correct assembly of the structure, you can be sure of the strength and reliability of the boat. Products made on the basis of plywood can very rarely leak.
Plywood boat is light, which does not cause any problems during transportation.

Despite the abundance of fishing and tourist boats in specialized stores, the most different forms and sizes, many are still interested in how to make a homemade plywood boat. The main reason for this interest lies, perhaps, in the indestructible craving of our compatriots for creative work.

Let you buy anything today, but in a home-made boat or dinghy, made according to drawings almost from the Fisherman magazine, there is some kind of indescribable charm.

In the article we will give some tips, using which you can quickly learn how to make boats - homemade plywood.

Materials and tools

Not so long ago, homemade plywood mini boats were very popular. This made it possible to work out methods for their manufacture, as well as to determine the most suitable materials.

Of course, today the list of available varnishes, impregnations and adhesives for plywood is much wider than it was even ten years ago - but for the manufacture of small-sized boats with our own hands, we do not need anything complicated:

Plywood is the most important component. For the manufacture of boats, sheets of glued natural birch veneer with a thickness of about 5 mm are most often used. Separate parts, such as frames or keels, are cut from a thicker (10 - 15 mm) material.

Note!
In order to ensure sufficient reliability for the sides, only high-quality plywood should be used for sheathing, without cracks, delaminations, knots, etc.
Of course, the price of material of the first or second grade will be higher, but then you will be sure of the safety of your boat.

Wood is used for the installation of internal struts, the design of the sides, seats etc. It is advisable to use an edged planed board made of light wood species.
The suture material is used to connect the individual parts of the skin into a single whole.. Seams can be made using a fairly thin and flexible wire, plastic clamps, thick nylon fishing line, etc.
Glue is needed to ensure the seams are properly sealed.. To date, masters have practically abandoned natural compositions based on casein, and prefer modern polymer resins.

In addition, we will need special varnishes and impregnations that protect the wood from swelling and decay. It is also worth stocking up with fiberglass or similar material for gluing all seams. As an alternative to fiberglass, fiberglass can be used - then the entire bottom and sides will be pasted over with it.

Well, do not forget about the paint - after all, we want our ship to be beautiful!

As for the tools, the set will be almost standard:

Saw on wood.
Electric jigsaw with a set of blades of different lengths.
Sander.
Hand tool(hammer, pliers, chisels, etc.)
Clamps for clamping plywood when gluing.
Brushes for impregnation, varnishing and.

Making a boat

Drawings and layout

Before starting work, we determine what kind of vessel we need. Today, on the net you can find a variety of drawings of home-made plywood boats, so nothing is impossible either in building a punt for fishing or in assembling a tourist kayak.

If none of the found drawings suits us, you can do the design yourself.

True, in this case, you will need certain skills to calculate the carrying capacity, otherwise the boat can turn out to be extremely decorative.

Having studied the available projects of home-made plywood boats, or having made our own, we transfer the contours of the main details to paper.
Using paper templates, we draw lines on plywood sheets along which frames and sheets for sheathing will be cut.
If the factory length does not suit you (and this happens in 99% of cases), then it is necessary to splice them. To do this, we cut off the ends of the plywood at an acute angle so that the length of the resulting bevel is 7-10 thicknesses of the sheet itself.

Having attached the beveled parts to each other, we coat them with glue and clamp them with clamps. This technique is called the connection "on the mustache."
In parallel, we prepare wooden bars from which the frame of our future boat will be made.

Advice!
To facilitate the work on the project, you can assemble special goats from bars with a section of 50x50 mm.
It will be much more convenient to place all the details on these goats during the connection process, especially if you work without helpers.

Case assembly

When everything is ready, we begin work:

Using a wood saw or electric jigsaw, . The indentation from the design size should not be more than 1 mm, otherwise the sides will not “converge” during stitching.
We glue the transom parts (tailgate) and frames to obtain the desired thickness and strength. Glued parts will be somewhat heavy, but it's not scary!
If you plan to install an outboard motor, then the transom should be additionally glued with fiberglass and reinforced with a hardwood board.

Advice!
To increase the strength of the connection, the frames and transoms can be additionally fixed with self-tapping screws.
In this case, the length of the self-tapping screws should be such that the point does not pierce the part through and through.

We install the transom on pre-made goats and begin to attach the bottom and sides to it, bringing them together on the bow.
We fasten the sheathing parts either with the help of suture material (if not very thick plywood is used), or exclusively with glue, cutting off the edge of the plywood at an angle.

At this stage, it is very important that all the elements converge in size, since in order to reduce the gap, it will be necessary to disassemble the entire structure and partially cut the frames.

After the "rough assembly" you can start gluing.

Adhesive work

The instructions for gluing and sealing our vessel are as follows:

We prepare a mixture of epoxy resin and aerosil (silicon dioxide). We mix the components in a 1:1 promotion using a nozzle on a drill. The optimal consistency of the mixture is like thick sour cream.
We strengthen the corners between the bottom, sides and transom with the help of wooden fillets - small corners that ensure the rigidity of the connection.
Strips of fiberglass and fiberglass are glued to all seams from the inside, carefully lubricating the joints with an epoxy-aerosol compound.

Note!
Since most adhesives contain volatile toxins, all paint work must be done with respiratory protection!

After the glue has dried, we install the frames in the selected places.
To fix the frames, we use the same glue. If the dimensions of the vessel are large enough, then in order to strengthen the structure, the frames should be additionally fixed on the bottom and sides with overlapping strips of fiberglass.

We lay the flooring on the bottom, fasten the oarlocks, seats and other parts provided for by the design.
If it is planned to equip the boat with a cockpit ( closed space in the bow), install the cover, fixing it on the sides and frames.

After waiting until the whole structure dries, we remove the boat from the goats, turn it over and grind the outer surface. Then we process the seams with an epoxy mixture and glue the bottom with fiberglass.

Coloring

At the final stage, we need to provide our boat with protection from moisture and give it an attractive outer appearance:

First, carefully degrease all the details.
Then we process the wood with impregnation. Here, the composition for sea or river vessels from Tikkurila is quite suitable.
We putty all planes, masking cracks and irregularities, and then we process it with a special primer.
Paint homemade plywood boats you can use almost any paint, but if you want to ensure the durability of the ship, then it is better to use special pigment mixtures designed for processing wooden ships.

The average paint consumption is 1 - 1.5 l / m 2. It is best to apply it with a brush, but the use of an airbrush is also allowed.

Conclusion

homemade boat plywood made using this technology will be quite suitable for fishing trips, family walks, etc. Of course, it is not worth going out into the open sea in it, but as practice shows, for large rivers and lakes in our country, such a design is quite reliable. In the presented video in this article you will find Additional information on this topic.

How to make a plywood boat. Do-it-yourself boat: how to make wood and PVC plywood. Materials and tools

Self-assembly of a plywood boat

Dimensions and drawings

Construction materials