Thuja turned brown what to do. What to do if thuja and other conifers turn yellow in autumn? What to do when the thuja turned yellow after planting

Try to carefully, without effort, bend the thuja branches in different places of the crown with your fingers: dead dry branches break easily; living twigs are elastic (even if the needles have dried on them); the main trunk (in whole or in part) and roots may still remain alive in the tree. It is a pity that you did not contact us with a question about room overwintering of the thuja earlier, when the tree was not yet very badly damaged, but even now you must definitely try to help it, even if it outwardly seems completely lifeless (if it is still alive, it will move over time in growth).
In winter, the thuja in the living room, with sufficient watering, dries out from excessive dryness of the air and from warm content (the thuja is desirable for a wintering temperature of 6-10 degrees in a cool, bright room or close to the window glass on a cool windowsill, with regular maintenance of the humidity of the earthen coma and air, with daily crown spraying).
I recommend that you purchase "Epin" (an excellent tool for restoring plant immunity) and start spraying the crown of the affected thuja with soft water daily, adding "Epin" to the water according to the instructions; after drying the water on the branches, place the thuja in a "mini-greenhouse" (the greenhouse will help prevent further drying of the crown in room conditions) and put the thuja on a cool windowsill. In the spring, you can put the thuja on the balcony, protecting it from sun rays; in warm weather, you can spray the thuja crown twice a day (morning and evening).
After transferring the thuja to the garden, cover its crown with gauze or covering material. Do not rush to cut the bare branches of the thuja, be patient: young shoots may appear on them (perhaps the restoration of the tree will be slow).
Once planted by me in the fall in the garden, the thuja suffered during wintering and met the spring completely naked; after regular spraying and caring care, the thuja soon dressed in a new outfit and has been growing successfully for several years now.

Ziborova E.Yu.

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How to care for thuja in the garden so that it is lush and green?

If you want to admire the beautiful green plants on the site, then you need to know how to care for the thuja so that it does not turn yellow or turn black.

It happens that the thuja loses its color, splendor and beauty after winter or planting, and many novice gardeners do not know how to restore health to conifers. To avoid mistakes and learn how to properly contain thuja on garden plot, it is necessary to remember and apply the rules of agricultural technology in the cultivation of coniferous plants.

Depending on when the thuja was planted, it will be carried out further care. Proper planting and a suitable place for the ephedra will be the starting points for subsequent actions, these two important factors have a huge impact on the condition of the plants in the future.

For thuja planted in spring and summer, first of all, thorough watering is required once every seven days, provided that the days are warm, but not hot. If the weather is sunny and the air is hot, increase watering to twice a week.

The volume of water introduced under the shrub must be at least one bucket per normal conditions, in extreme - two. More liquid will be required for an adult and large plant, and in cases where a transplant has been made.

The first month of thuja growth is accompanied by mandatory sprinkling, during which the pores open and the plant begins to breathe, you can feel a subtle coniferous smell. The scaly thuja needles actively evaporate moisture, therefore, they constantly need to be replenished with water.

Thuja is sprayed once a week; on sunny hot days, sprinkling is required every day. best time irrigation of plants is considered evening, after sunset, but it is possible in the morning if the thuja is not in the sun for a couple of hours.

Tui after planting in the fall require watering and sprinkling in the same volumes as spring seedlings. A young plant needs to gain enough moisture to overwinter well, if the autumn is rainy and protracted, watering should be stopped or reduced. An excess of moisture for a period of more than two weeks can lead to thuja disease.

There is no need to fertilize the thuja after planting; appropriate top dressing should have been applied when planting. If, for some reason, fertilizers were not applied, and the soil on the site is poor in microelements, then it is better to feed the plant, but this can only be done in spring and summer.

When fertilizing in the fall, shoots and twigs will begin to develop in the thuja, which will not have time to form by winter, and may die during severe frosts.

Thuja after planting is best fed with a solution of Zircon, the drug stimulates the formation of roots, improves the absorption of water and nutrients by the plant. The fungicidal and antiviral properties of Zircon will protect conifers from diseases, viruses on early stages development.

Thuja care at different times of the year

Thuja care begins after winter, lasts all spring and summer, ends in late autumn. According to many gardeners, the plant is unpretentious and can grow with minimal attention, however, a number of significant problems arise in the process of growing: thuja is dry after winter, turned black, turned yellow after transplantation, how to water, what to feed and what to do about it? There are answers to all these questions, consider the most common and most important.

When to open thuja after winter?

It is not necessary to remove the shelter from the plants immediately with the appearance of the first rays of the sun, especially for young seedlings growing for the first year. Make sure that the ground around the thuja has thawed and warmed up a little, then remove the covering material. Having opened earlier, there is a risk of yellowing of the thuja, since the warm sun will cause the growth of twigs and shoots, the root system of the conifer in frozen soil will be at rest, and water exchange will be disturbed.

What to do if the thuja turned yellow after the winter?

Before proceeding with active actions, you need to find the reason for the yellowing of green twigs and shoots, there may be several of them:
Spring burning of the coniferous part of the plant. A fairly common occurrence, to avoid this, the plants are shaded already in the month of February, and not in April, when the snow melts. Do not use dense fabrics and materials to cover the thuja, gauze and mosquito nets are fine.

Spunbond is not suitable, as it transmits ultraviolet rays, which are most dangerous for arborvitae in the spring. There is no need to “wrap” coniferous plants in a fur coat, the greenhouse effect inside will only worsen the condition of the green beauties. If the moment is missed in early spring, water the seedlings with warm water and spray the plants with Ecogel-Antistress biostimulator to accelerate growth. With the beginning of summer, it will be necessary to cut off the burnt branches;

in the photo - yellowed thuja

Root locking occurs when water stagnates at the site or nearby groundwater. Excess moisture in the soil can be a source of not only yellow needles, but also mold on thuja. If the plants have been in the water for a short time, remove the bad branches with a pruner, gently loosen the ground around the trunk shallowly, being careful not to touch the root system.

Treat with any antifungal drug, spray the crown and branches with Zircon or Epin to stimulate growth. In the case of a close passage of groundwater, the thuja must be transplanted to another place, since over time the roots will grow even more, the plant will die from an excess of moisture;

If the thuja turned black after the winter, it is most likely that a fungal infection has set in. Cut off all bad branches and treat with Hom, if the fungus reappears, treat again. Thuja trunk circles can be watered with a solution of Fundazol or another fungicide. The plant can turn black if pets mark it, protect the plant and treat it with any fungicide.

In spring and summer, as in autumn, thuja is watered as well as after planting, taking into account weather conditions and observing time frames. Top dressing of thuja begins in early spring, ends in the second half of August, so as not to cause the growth of shoots by winter.

In the first year of life, plants are not fed, then fertilizers are applied as needed. Use complex fertilizers for thuja, such as Osmokot (10-15 grams per bush) or Kemira-Universal (100 grams per 1 m² of plantings).

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Thuja owes its popularity to the evergreen lush dress. This plant is a real gem.

manor plot, park area, city squares. But what to do if your favorite tree turns yellow? How to save him? First you need to figure out why this is happening.

Causes of yellowing thuja, and control measures

Tui themselves are unpretentious, but if the needles begin to lose their color, then it's time to save the plants. What can cause yellowed needles?

natural processes

The life of each needle ends after about 5 years. At this age, chlorophyll ceases to be produced, and individual branches or parts of them begin to turn yellow. This is a natural process. The branches gradually die off and fall off, and others come to replace them. In this case, you don't need to do anything. If you do not like the appearance of individual shoots at all, then the yellowed parts can be carefully cut off.

seasonal changes

During the winter cold, some varieties of thuja turn slightly yellow. Needle color change may be slight. This is due to the fact that the plant adapts to the lack of light and severe cooling. In the spring, when the process of sap flow begins, and daylight hours increase, the color of the needles is restored. Another reason for the spring yellowing of thuja can be sunburn.

Possible mistakes during planting thuja

If the thuja turns yellow after planting, then some mistakes were made. For example:

1. The plant is planted in sandy soil. In this case, moisture does not linger in the upper layers. The cause of yellowing may be its lack.
2. Thuja is deficient in nutrients ah because of the density of the clay soil.
3. Peat soils with stagnant water can cause rotting of thuja roots, causing the needles to begin to lose their color.

If you were able to figure out why your newly planted tree is turning yellow, that is, washed away to transplant it into suitable soil. The ideal composition for planting thuja contains turf ground with the addition of peat and sand. And don't forget the drainage layer.

Wrong care

If a lot of time has passed after planting and the plant suddenly began to lose color, then the reason could not be proper care. Pay attention to the following points:

1. Thuja turns yellow from lack of moisture. Right organized watering will return your plant rich greenery.
2. Groundwater, located close to the surface of the earth, can cause jamming and rotting of the root system. To save the plant, it is better to transplant it to another place.
3. Exposing or deepening when planting the root neck can cause the bark to die off and the entire tree to dry out. The first signs are yellowing of the needles. This reason can be easily eliminated by digging in or, on the contrary, releasing the root collar so that it is flush with the ground.
4. If during planting the distance between the trees is not maintained, then from constant contact and lack of space they will turn yellow and crumble.
5. If the thuja is transplanted from a dense planting immediately to sunny place, then from burns it will begin to turn yellow immediately after disembarkation. It must be remembered that this plant loves shady places.
6. The cause of yellowing can be an incorrectly selected fertilizer or its excess, as well as reagents or salt, which is sprinkled on the tracks during ice.
7. If individual shoots turn yellow, then the cause may be a lack of iron. The right combination of fertilizers will save your plant.

Animal Influence

Plants can be seriously affected by dog ​​and cat marks. First of all, the root system reacts, and only then the problem is manifested by yellowing of the needles.

Diseases and pests

1. After the winter cold, thuja needles are often affected by brown mold. Her name is shute brown. It is necessary to treat the plant with the help of Bordeaux mixture or cartocide. It is recommended to process thuja several times, maintaining an interval of two weeks.
2. Treatment with Rogor-S or Actellik will help to cope with aphids.
3. For the treatment of fungal diseases, HOM, commander or cartocid are used.

If you managed to correctly determine why the thuja begins to turn yellow, then the plant can be saved and it will delight you with lush greenery for many years.

When growing thuja, many gardeners are faced with such a problem as changing the color of the needles of this ornamental plant: she acquires an ugly brown or yellow. The tree begins to dry, shed its needles and, in the end, may die. So why does thuja turn yellow? What are the reasons and what can be done to avoid it?

spring sunburn

This is one of the most common causes of discoloration of many conifers, including arborvitae.

In early spring, the snow on the site still lies in a rather thick, even layer, and the sun begins to bake more and more every day. The sun's rays are reflected from the snow cover like from a mirror, and their intensity also increases. After the winter, the thuja is weakened, its needles are very tender and sensitive, so the plant easily gets a sunburn.

What to do if the thuja has already received a sunburn.

If the thuja has already turned yellow, then a shadow and sufficient watering can save it. Do not worry, the plant will eventually come to life, grow new needles and acquire its natural color.

And in order to avoid similar situations in the future and protect the plant from the aggressive effects of spring sunlight, it needs to create comfortable conditions. At the end of winter, cover the thuja from the sunny side with fir branches (spruce branches) or such a covering material that allows air to pass through well, but protects from light.

fungal diseases

Coniferous plants are susceptible to fungal diseases. In a diseased plant, the needles turn yellow and fall off. Therefore, immediately after the thuja was planted in the ground, it must be treated with a solution of foundationazole (take 10 g of the drug for 10 liters of water). This procedure can be repeated periodically to prevent the disease.

Dried branches of the plant must be cut off, and the cut itself should be smeared with a solution blue vitriol (5%).

Bordeaux liquid will also help to cope with thuja fungal diseases. But one procedure is not enough here. For preventive purposes, the plant must be sprayed at least 2 times a year: in early spring and before the first autumn frosts.

Aphid

Wrong fit

Experienced gardeners know that sometimes the thuja needles turn yellow and fall off due to the wrong planting depth of the tree. This is a very common mistake. When planting a thuja, its measles neck is often deepened or, conversely, exposed.

Care rules

No less important is the proper care of conifers.

After planting the thuja in the ground, the first thing you need to do is protect it from the sun, create a shadow - a weakened plant needs strength to take root in a new place. Then the soil around the thuja needs to be mulched.

Watering

After planting in the soil, within 1 month, the tree must be watered once a week (10 liters of water per plant). In the dry period, watering is carried out more often, 2 times a week (15-20 liters of water per plant).

If the sun is very hot, then the thuja needles must be sprinkled with water. But on a hot afternoon, this cannot be done: water droplets on the needles turn into small lenses, and the needles can get a sunburn. Spray the plant in the morning or late afternoon.

If the thuja is grown in an area with a high level of groundwater, then the plant can do without watering.

Mulching

Soil mulching is carried out with compost, sawdust, peat or wood chips.

To avoid drying out and overheating of the soil in hot summer period or freezing of the soil in winter, a 5-centimeter layer of these materials is poured around the thuja.

Top dressing thuja

Thuja must be properly and timely fed with organic and mineral fertilizers.

Manure is most often used as "organics", it is poured with water (1: 4) and infused for two weeks. One plant requires 2-3 liters of this infusion. You need to pour it not on the base of the trunk, but on the soil around the tree. The larger the thuja, the greater should be the radius of the circle of cultivated soil.

As mineral fertilizers it is good to use preparations "Bioud" (for 1 tree 1 kg of fertilizer, used up to three times per season), "Kumir-universal" (for 1 square meter 120 g of the drug), "Epin" solution (for 5 liters of water 1 ampoule of the drug).

Important: before winter period the plant cannot be fed. Thuja is preparing for rest - the growth of shoots stops, they ripen. And top dressing will stimulate the growth of the tree, young shoots will go into the winter weak and may die. Therefore, August is the last month when the thuja is fed before wintering.

Pruning and decorative tree shaping

Dry branches of the thuja are pruned every spring, before the start of the vegetative process. This allows you to maintain the size and shape of the plant, which is especially important if the thuja is grown as a hedge.

The formation of the tree begins to be carried out as soon as it reaches the desired size. To keep the plant strong and viable, you need to cut off no more than one-third of the shoot.

Wintering

There is no need to shelter an adult, strengthened thuja for the winter. She is not afraid of snow and frost. However, heavy snowfalls can damage the dense crown of the plant. To prevent this from happening, at the end of autumn, in case of a snowy winter, the thuja crown can be strengthened. large trees can be pulled together with a screed, thuja in the form of a ball - with twine. Tui, designed in the form of a column or pin-shaped shape, which have several tops, can also be slightly pulled together with twine.

However, it is necessary to provide shelter for young specimens planted in autumn, and also not to forget about shelter in order to protect against burns.

If you follow these simple advice, then you can grow a beautiful, strong decorative tree, which will become a worthy decoration of the garden.

Together with the services of pruning thuja, cutting thuja and scheduled annual maintenance, we at Garden Academy Moscow are engaged in the processing of thuja from pests. For example, if your thujas turn yellow on the outside or inside, turn brown, turn black or have manifestations of other thuja diseases or thuja pests, or if you decide to protect yourself in advance from the manifestation of diseases in thujas by protective treatment of thujas - call us. Our specialists will find out the causes of diseases, draw up a treatment plan and solve this problem. Usually one, two or three treatments are required with a frequency of 7 days.

Why do thujas turn yellow and what to do?

There are many reasons for the yellowing of thuja needles. This can be due to various fungal infections, as well as other reasons completely unrelated to diseases. For example, in winter, a cold burn can occur, and in the spring, by the sun.

Thuja pests and other causes of yellowing of thuja will be discussed in this article. We will look at how to prevent yellowing of thuja needles and how to deal with pests.

Why does the needles of the thuja turn yellow. What is thuja sick about thuja pests.

Yellowing of thuja is not associated with diseases and pests. It should be remembered that for the winter, the thuja in the needles produces a special protective pigment of red color, which changes the color of the plant from slightly brownish to intense brown and even pinkish-bronze (depending on the type and variety of thuja).

The yellowing of the top of the thuja indicates that it does not receive enough nutrients due to damage to the root system. This may be due to two reasons. The first reason is an excess of moisture at the level of the root system. This happens in conditions of stagnant water or high groundwater levels. The second reason is the defeat of the roots by fungal diseases (read on the page: thuja diseases).

Observation experience shows that most often thuja turn yellow due to excess moisture in the soil. For example, it is dangerous to plant thuja in low places where there is often water that accumulates there after snow melts or heavy rainfall. If you know in advance about the tendency of the soil to swamp and stagnant moisture, you need to either immediately choose another place for planting, or make good drainage in such soil in advance for the outflow of water. In conditions of overmoistening, the thuja needles turn yellow, as the roots lock up and rot. The process of decay extends to the bases of the skeletal branches and the plant inevitably dies.

If the thuja began to turn yellow in conditions of waterlogging, it is better to immediately transplant it to another place. According to one of the experts, the Smaragd thuja is capable of withstanding spring moisture stagnation in a water layer of about 10 cm for a week. True, about 5-10% of the Smaragd thuja dies under such conditions. However, the surviving plants still suffer in the future and are characterized by slow growth. A fungal soil infection is often additionally attached to the jamming of the roots, causing Fusarium or root rot. Of the preventive measures on stagnant soils, site drainage is used or the right place for planting is chosen. Sick plants are transplanted, treated with a Bordeaux mixture or special preparations of a similar effect. In professional nurseries against root rot, spraying with a 0.2% solution of foundationol is used.

The next reason for the yellowing of the needles is its decay. We are talking about the decay of needles in those cases when the needles of the thuja turn yellow and die off due to poor breathability and lack of light in places where closely growing plants come into contact with each other or with a massive fence (solid wall or fence). In some cases, the decay of the needles is also associated with the removal of winter shelter too late. When covering with lutrasil, thuja will also spit. The needles in such places turn yellow, dry and easily crumble. As a preventive measure, it is recommended to plant plants in time, observe the correct interval in advance when planting them, monitor the condition sheltered plants as the spring warms up.

You should not plant thuja too close to cast supports, walls or fences that do not have free spaces and that create continuous shade and drafts. The crowns of plants from the side of such supports turn yellow from exposure to winter drafts and lack of light.

Often we are faced with the fact that the thuja turns yellow inside, only around the trunk. Outside, the color of the shoots is normal. The yellowing of these areas is associated with insufficient light supply to them, as well as with a limited life cycle of needles (it lives up to 3-5 years). Yellowing of the thuja inside, practically does not affect it appearance, since this deficiency is hidden from the outside by densely spaced healthy shoots. The process of yellowing of the thuja inside is natural and is not associated with any diseases.

Often we can observe that our thuja has turned yellow under the rays of the spring sun. Then we can talk about sunburn of needles. Thuja burns are observed in early spring, with the beginning of the growing season, when the plant has already woken up and started to grow, but the developing needles have not received enough moisture due to the fact that frosts are still holding on and the earth has not had time to thaw. To prevent spring burns, it is recommended to shade sensitive species in the fall, especially on the south side, and also to do good watering before winter, so that the needles absorb enough moisture. In addition to the above, it should be noted that different types thuja are susceptible to varying degrees sunburn. The most resistant in this regard is the western thuja, and the least resistant is the eastern thuja. If burns have already appeared, it will not be superfluous to make shading until the earth thaws. Can also be watered warm water and spray needles in the absence of sunlight. Spraying with zircon gives a good effect.

An increase in the dose of fertilizers recommended by the manufacturer leads to a supersaturation of the plant with microelements and is also the cause of yellowing of the needles of the arborvitae, and burns of the roots. Do not overdo it with top dressing! Use only special fertilizers for conifers. During the spring planting of thuja,

Insufficient iron content in the soil also leads to yellowing, sometimes whitening of thuja needles on various independent shoots. Similarly, red-violet color of needles can signal a lack of phosphorus in the soil, and chlorotic needles and slow growth of arborvitae - a lack of nitrogen in the soil.

Frost and winter drafts can also lead to damage to thuja twigs and yellowing of needles. Frost cracks are bark cracks that occur on twigs or trunk during simultaneous exposure to frost and sun. Depending on the location and depth of the lesion, the needles of the thuja may turn yellow, or may remain green. Frost cracks are treated with 3% solution of copper sulfate, then smeared with wood balm, garden pitch. Winter drafts lead to frostbite of parts of the plant, damaged branches turn yellow and die. Plants growing near solid walls or fences are prone to winter drafts.

If your thuja grows along the road and in winter the tips of its needles turn yellow or brown, and this mainly happened on the lower parts of the plant, then it is reasonable to assume that it was affected by special mixtures that road builders pour during this period in order to eliminate icing.

Mechanical damage to branches can be caused by the weight of snow or ice adhering to them, when branches bent to the ground not only deform the crown, but also break. Sometimes large trees lose entire branches. This happens after heavy precipitation in the form of sleet or freezing rain. Adhering snow must be carefully shaken off with a long wooden stick. Broken and broken thuja branches will turn yellow.

The next reason why the thuja needles turn yellow is the lack of moisture in the soil. In a long dry period, all thujas need watering. Young and recently planted plants are especially sensitive to drying out of the soil. At first, the thuja fades due to loss of moisture, and then begins to turn yellow and dry (read below).

If the thuja turned yellow after planting.

1. Insufficient watering. Thuja at any age loves medium-moist soils and does not tolerate excess water. Ideally, the soil for it should always be moderately moist. So thuja develops better and grows faster. However, according to the definition of experts, thujas need mandatory watering after transplantation, during a long drought and at a young age. This suggests that young and recently transplanted plants have a lower threshold for drought tolerance. As a matter of fact, the way it is. By the way, plants that have successfully taken root after spring planting may not survive a dry summer and require closer attention. It is enough to assess the state of soil moisture by touch and prevent it from overdrying.

2. Violation of landing technology. With insufficient deepening, the roots will suffer from drought and this can cause not only yellowing of the thuja, but also the death of the plant. During the planting procedure, the plant needs abundant watering. Not only the landing pit is abundantly poured, but containers with plants are spilled through. A clod of earth is also watered to a wet state, in which it does not fall apart. Some sources write that excessive deepening can lead to yellowing of the lower branches of the thuja, poor growth or fading of the plant, and even rotting of the roots. Such problems do not always happen, but the situation can be corrected by freeing the root collar in a circle from the excess layer of earth.

3. Broken branches during transportation. Damaged branches of the thuja will soon turn yellow and will have to be removed. The thinned sections of the crown will overgrow on their own over time, but they can also be closed with neighboring branches, securing them with wire in the right direction. To prevent such damage, the plants must be properly positioned in the vehicle. Also, the crown of the plant can be tied before transportation, although for many varieties of arborvitae this is not mandatory and depends on a number of factors.

4. Too long waiting for landing from the moment the thuja is dug out of the ground. During such a pause, in the absence of watering, the roots may dry out. When the roots dry, the result will not be long in coming: planted after a long waterless pause, your thuja will turn yellow partially or completely. Perhaps the plant will not die, but it will be much more difficult for it to take root. There is only one conclusion: a clod of earth should not dry out before planting, therefore it requires watering and proper storage. If the branches are still alive, and only the needles have suffered, remove the yellowed needles with your hands. Such branches may eventually become covered with new shoots.

Thuja turned yellow from pests.

Tui pests. The activity of thuja pests greatly weakens the plants and often causes their death. Thuja pests are thuja aphid, which is bred by ants, spider mites, gray larch leafworms, moths - moths, click beetles, bark beetles, thuja false shield, thuja beetle (stem pest).

Thuja aphid has a gray - brown color and is covered with a silvery coating. On closer examination, this aphid on the thuja can be seen from the underside of the shoots. The aphid is an insect that sucks vegetable juice and lives in numerous colonies, so over time, its activity causes yellowing and falling of the needles.

You can treat thuja from pests with a soap solution. Treatment with such a solution is repeated at least two to three times every 7 to 10 days. If aphids are too numerous, insecticides should be used to control them. Be sure to destroy the anthills on the site, so the ants are engaged in settling aphids.

Moth larvae - moths gnaw through the tissue of the tips of the thuja shoots, making moves in them. On closer examination, on the affected parts of the plant, you can see the inlets and outlets, as well as tiny caterpillars. The butterfly itself is also very small (up to 4 mm), flies out at the end of May. The moth - the moth is a mining moth, it lays its eggs in the apical shoots of the arborvitae, from which the larvae emerge again in the spring. So annual life cycle the pest is repeated again. The needles of the thuja turn yellow and die.

If butterflies or larvae are found, it is necessary to mechanically remove them and the parts of plants damaged by them. In insect control, chemical insecticides are also used. To prevent the spread of the pest, in July it is necessary to carry out a double treatment with special products containing pyrethroids. The interval between treatments should be 8 days.

The gray larch leafworm is a small dark caterpillar. Affected shoots are characteristically covered with cobwebs. In some places, the cobweb connects the needles into a cocoon, inside each cocoon there is a caterpillar. Caterpillars emerge from eggs and after 3 - 4 weeks turn into pupae, and then into butterflies. The wingspan of a butterfly is 20 - 22 mm. Pine, spruce, larch are most often affected. With a large number of insects, the plant may die.

For prevention, plants are sprayed with insecticides in May - early June. If there were too many caterpillars, re-treat in the summer.

Beetles are click beetles, or rather their larvae are root pests that are in the ground. Eating the roots, they cause the thuja general weakness, stop growth, then the thuja turns yellow and dies. In the people, the larvae of click beetles are called wireworms. Having grown from larvae, the click beetle differs from others in the ability to roll over from its back to its feet, making a characteristic sound when jumping. The larvae develop in the ground for 3-5 years, grow up to 2.5 cm and, as they mature, begin to eat the thicker parts of the roots.

To destroy the larvae, the earth is watered with products containing diazinon. The appearance of larvae of click beetles is facilitated by acidification of the soil and its waterlogging, so these factors should be eliminated. It is useful to carry out preventive digging of the soil in the fall.

The spider mite is easy to differentiate from other pests by the presence of a thin arachnoid coating, which eventually covers a large area of ​​the crown. Most often, this pest is found on Canadian spruce. Insecticides help in the fight against spider mites.

bark beetle - very dangerous pest plants, affecting not only thuja. The pests themselves and their larvae eat the wood, gnawing through many passages in it. Plants affected by bark beetles die within a month. The size of the bark beetle is 0.8 - 9 mm and it has a lot of varieties.

When a thuja beetle appears, the plant must be treated with special insecticides. If there is little sense from them, it is better to destroy the plant by burning. This pest is somewhat similar in appearance to the bark beetle and makes small holes in the trunk. Sometimes you can see curved passages in the bark and small wood shavings fall off the tree.

If your thuja was struck by a false shield, then when examining the shoots of the plant, you will find rounded dark or light brown growths on them, very similar to buds. These are adult pests and their larvae. Adult false scale insects spend the winter in the litter, and their larvae hibernate in the bark of young shoots. The size of the false shield is about 3 mm. Thuja does not die immediately, but always significantly weakens its growth, and its needles first look dull, lethargic, then turn yellow, dry.

How to treat and prevent. To prevent infection, in early spring, as soon as the ground has thawed, a special caterpillar glue is applied to the base of the trunks, blocking the way up for insects. For the same purpose, you can wrap burlap around the trunks, since it plays the role of a trap. If there are few insects, it is enough to clean off the shoots from them by any mechanical means. With extensive infection, insect pests are destroyed with insecticides. A good result is given by Aktara's solution, which needs to be processed twice with an interval of 10 days. Actellik can be used in the same way. The treatment must be repeated in the summer (mid-July and August) to prevent a new generation of larvae from developing. There is no need to list all the names of insecticides, since any garden center will help you choose the right one.

Now the thuja requires resuscitation to restore its health - these are mineral supplements, regular watering, as well as spraying and watering with growth regulators (zircon, epin give good results).

*The exact price is determined by the photo or video. *Note - the cost of pruning thuja depends on the height and depth of the crown (width), on the diameters of the trunks and on the number of pruning edges ordered by the client.

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