The street rose does not bloom. Climbing rose, planting and care in the open field, tips and tricks. Landing in the wrong land

Let's find out in more detail what a climbing rose is. Planting and leaving in open ground behind this wondrous flower will be discussed step by step in this article. Correct fit - pledge of abundant and long flowering. How to care for climbing roses? Summer residents and gardeners appreciate the weaving variety of roses. They know that with the help of climbing roses, you can turn even the most modest site into a beautiful romantic corner.

Climbing roses, description

The shoots of climbing roses can reach several meters. Any support located in close proximity to the bush is quickly braided by its long and flexible branches. You have surely admired amazingly beautiful flower arches more than once. Floral columns, pyramids, trellises, well-disguised old buildings, part of a wall or a roof - any garden structure can be decorated with a luxurious climbing rose. This type of plant is ideal for vertical gardening, but in order for everything to look harmonious and attractive, you should know the rules for planting, pruning, caring for and protecting bushes from pests.

The color scheme of this type of roses is as diverse as that of their park or ground cover relatives. Buds range in size from 2.5 to 12 cm in diameter, climbing rose varieties bloom in June and continue to bloom as long as the warm season lasts (approximately 30-170 days, depending on the variety). There are many varieties of climbing roses, but all of them can be divided into groups:

• Semi-plaited, whose height reaches 1.5-3 meters.
• Climbing - 3-5 meters.
• Curly - 5-15 meters.

The shoots of these roses are formed continuously, the phases of budding and flowering differ, again, depending on the variety. Among these representatives there are both single-flowering species and re-flowering species.

Climbing rose, photo:

The buds of certain varieties can exude a pronounced aroma that is heard from a distance, some of them smell slightly audible, subtle and gentle.

How to plant a climbing rose, choosing a place

This culture will feel great in sunny places with good ventilation. Wetlands are strictly contraindicated for it, as are sandstones and heavy clay soil. In general, loose loam or fertile soils with good soil permeability are most suitable for this type of roses. If your site is dominated by an unsuitable soil for a climbing rose, then be sure to dilute it with a suitable one. Thus, sand is added to the clay soil, and clay is added to the sandy soil (to a depth of about 30 cm), in addition to this, humus or humus should be added, as well as phosphorus additives.

All procedures for adapting the land must be carried out six months before planting roses, or at least 2 months before that. Experienced gardeners recommend planting climbing roses where their counterparts have not previously grown. If it doesn't work out in another way, then before planting you need to replace the top layer of the earth (by 50-70 cm). Ideally, a climbing rose should be planted on a small hill. The root system of these plants goes deep into the soil (up to 2 meters), so you should make sure in advance that at the selected place the groundwater does not pass close to the upper soil layer.

If you decide to "drape" a part of the house wall with a climbing rose, then the distance between the bush and the wall should be at least 60 cm (and at least half a meter from other plants). Most often, the climbing rose is planted in the last weeks of September or in the first half of October. Thus, before the onset of a serious cold snap, the roots will have time to take root in a new place. With the arrival of spring, all parts of the plant will enter a phase of active development and growth, and by the beginning of summer the rose will bloom in lush color. If a climbing rose is planted in the ground in spring, then by this moment it should warm up to at least +10 ° C, catch the moment when the buds have not yet blossomed - this is important. The second half of April / the first weeks of May is the most optimal time for spring planting.

Planting a climbing rose when it's best in spring or autumn

I will make a reservation right away that the rules for spring planting of seedlings are not much different from autumn ones. You should be prepared for the fact that the roses planted in the spring will lag slightly in development, require increased attention from you to your person. Compared to their autumn counterparts, they can delay flowering by about 10 days.

All stages described, as well as subsequent care, are applied both in spring and autumn.

• So, before planting, the seedling needs to shorten the branches, up to about 20 cm in length, the roots - too, up to 30 cm.
• Dig a large hole so the roots have room to grow. The depth of the pit should be 60-70 cm.
• If you are planting several bushes, then the distance between them should be at least 100 cm. When immersing the seedling in the soil, make sure that the root collar is also buried 12-15 cm - this will protect it from frost in the cold season.
• The roots are gently straightened, covered with soil, slightly compacted with your hands. Make sure that all the roots are pointing down and not bending up!
• Planting a climbing rose in spring provides for the introduction of nutritious soil into the hole. About 3-5 kg, for example, peat compost, will appeal to your rose.
• After planting, the soil is trampled down a little and watered abundantly.
• It will be very good if you add a preparation with beneficial bacteria that stimulates growth, for example, Phosphobacterin, to the water for this first watering. The Heteroauxin phytohormone is also great.

In some cases, summer residents cover newly planted bushes with plastic wrap - this technique contributes to better adaptation of plants in a new place. It is up to you to do it or not, if the weather conditions in your region push you to create greenhouse conditions for climbing roses, then do not forget to raise the film daily and gradually increase the airing time every day. After stable warm weather is established, remove the film and cover the ground around the bushes with leaf humus, peat, chopped bark or straw.

How to plant a climbing rose in the spring, bought in a store?

Today in flower shops you can buy climbing rose seedlings with open or closed root systems.

Representatives with open roots should be immediately planted in the ground. When choosing, pay attention to the presence of lignified shoots - there should be at least two of them. Such a shoot must be ripe (bend with a crunch), otherwise the rose may not withstand wintering. The bush as a whole should look healthy, have well-developed roots, strong, without dried out fragments. The length of the shoots should be at least 60-70 cm.

Climbing roses with a closed root system are sold in pots, so you cannot immediately assess the condition of the roots. Carefully examine the shoots, they should look healthy, not very elongated, if they have a light green color, then it is better to refrain from buying.

The elongation of the shoots and their light shade signal about improper storage of seedlings - either in excessive heat or in insufficient lighting. Such a rose will be weak, painful, unlikely to survive the winter.

You should also pay close attention to the graft sites, a properly grafted cutting should have callus tissue at the "joint" site, which promotes fusion. If the graft site is peeling and looks unhealthy, then with such a rose you will only have problems.

Planting a climbing rose from a store in spring, steps:

1. A rose with a closed root system is carefully removed from the pot along with an earthen lump, and then planted in the chosen place. For representatives with an open root system, remove the film from the roots, place them in water. If there are buds or shoots below the grafting site, remove them. If there is wild growth, we also remove it, too long shoots can be pinched. Do not forget to powder the cut points with charcoal or activated charcoal.
2. The roots should be in the water for 3-4 hours, thus, the plant will be saturated with moisture, the transport soil will become soft, it can be easily removed and carefully examine the root system. Stimulant "Kornevin" can be added to the water (according to the instructions).
3. We take the roses out of the water, gently straighten the roots as possible and place the seedling in the dug hole. About what the pit should be and how to mix the soil (if the situation requires it), has already been described a little above. Water the rose well.
4. After the water is absorbed, you can add more earth (spud). When re-filling the soil, the grafting site can be covered with a layer of soil, but not more than 3 cm.
5. If the spring sun is shining too brightly, do not be too lazy to cover the young bush with a paper bag or a cloth of light shades - so it is guaranteed not to burn out. This protective coating can be left on for 5-7 days.

Climbing roses, care and cultivation

In heat and drought, rose bushes should be watered once every five days. After 20 days after planting, you need to carefully shake off the soil from the bush. By the way, roses planted in the fall are also opened after winter in the first weeks of April. For this procedure, it is advisable to choose a non-sunny day, so that later the plant does not experience stress during the night temperature drop. Make sure that the grafting site remains about 10 cm buried in the soil.

During the growing season, the climbing rose requires generous watering. After the buds appear, as well as after the formation of the bush, the plant should be watered every 10 days. In this case, water should penetrate to the very roots and deeper, 10-12 liters per one bush will be quite enough. A couple of days after rain or watering, you need to loosen the soil around the rose. It can also be mulched. For roses, both waterlogging and lack of moisture are equally harmful, so observe the golden mean in this matter.

Climbing rose, photo:

How to fertilize climbing roses

Fertilization is an important step in the care of a climbing rose, because given view quite picky about feeding. Throughout the summer, nitrogen supplements should be alternated with complex fertilizers; it is recommended to apply them every 2-3 weeks. With the onset of spring, the plant is fed with a complex mineral fertilizer, for example - Agricola-Rose (according to the instructions). After two or three weeks, you can add organic matter - fertilizer "Ideal" or "Flower". You can also use the old proven method - 10 liters of mullein and 3 kg of wood ash, diluted in 50 liters of water. It is recommended to dilute one liter of this mixture in 10 liters of water, and then water the plant with the resulting composition at the very root. From about the second week of July, you can begin to slowly add phosphorus and potassium supplements in order to prepare the bushes in advance for the coming winter. Carefully read the dosage of drugs in the instructions, remember that by overfeeding the rose with chemistry, you can simply ruin it.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year of planting

How does it differ from standard requirements? It depends on competent care in the first year of a plant's life. further development and the splendor of flowering. When new shoots appear, the soil is removed from the bushes (the one that was used for hilling). If there are sunny days, then at first, light shading with coniferous spruce branches will not hurt. After 10-12 days after removing the hilling soil, you can start the first pruning of the central shoot. It should be shortened over the second or third sheet. A little later, with the lateral branches of the second order, you need to do a similar procedure, while the eyes "looking" inside the bush must be removed, and those eyes that are located on the outside are left for the further correct formation of the bush.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year also involves removing the buds, as odd as it sounds. From the beginning of flowering until the first weeks of August, it is recommended to leave only two flowers on each branch. With the arrival of autumn, these flowers will turn into boxes with seeds (fruits), and after the manipulations carried out, your rose will bloom especially magnificently next year.

Pruning climbing roses or how to prune a climbing rose

Is the climbing rose pruned in the fall for the winter? If other types of roses can be simply spud, then the climbing one must be covered completely - this factor does not depend on your region of residence. You can choose one of the methods of thermal insulation, in the first case, the ground part of the bush is removed from the support, the foliage is removed, and all weak and old shoots are cut off.

Here you have to choose 10-12 of the strongest and healthiest branches (remaining after pruning), combine them into one bundle, rewind with twine and gently tilt them to the ground. With the help of metal brackets (we cut the wire into fragments and bend), the branches are fixed to the ground, and then they are covered with an appropriate protective material. If there are several shrubs, they are located in close proximity to each other, then they can be covered with one common covering canvas. In the second case, everything happens in a similar way, only in this case the plant is not removed from the support, but reliably wrapped with protective material directly on it. The base of the bush is spud up as described above.

How to prune a climbing rose? This important agrotechnical care measure needs to be given special attention. Pruning helps to form the crown of the plant, promotes generous and long-lasting flowering, positively affects the health and vitality of the climbing rose. Immediately after planting, all shoots are shortened by 20-30 cm; in the summer, faded buds and branches growing inside the crown (thickening it) are cut off.

From the second year of the plant's life, branches are pruned at the end of the flowering phase.

How to prune climbing roses after flowering? They fade around the end of August - September (depending on the climate in the region), at this time all diseased and dead branches should be removed. The oldest shoots (choose 1 or 2) are cut off completely, subsequently they will be successfully replaced by young basal processes. If these processes are absent, then the old branches should be measured about 40 cm from the base, and the rest should be removed - this procedure is aimed at activating the growth of replacing basal branches.

The rest (not very old) shoots are cut off in the place where a new powerful growth began to form, later it will act as a guide. Short peduncle branches are cut to 2 or 3 buds (about 15-17 cm from the base of the branch), weak stems are cut to 3 buds (we also measure from the base). The skeleton (base) of the crown should be formed from the strongest, correctly growing shoots (evenly directed), on which young branches will then form.

How to prune a climbing rose in the spring? The pruner should be picked up when the buds begin to swell on the branches from below (last weeks of April / early May), not earlier. If you start pruning too early, then with night frosts, the branches may simply freeze, as a result of which the rose will bloom much later than the due date. If you miss the pruning time, then the plant will throw all its energy into forming new branches and foliage, and flowering will be poor.

Pruning climbing roses in spring has one important point - removal, namely, cutting off (not cutting) wild shoots that have grown below the grafting site. Usually this situation becomes apparent after the spring opening of the bushes. Also, at this time, all sick, frozen branches are removed, all affected fragments are clearly visible in the spring, when the buds swell on the “living” branches.

Transplanting a climbing rose to another place

Sometimes, out of inexperience, the gardener chooses an unsuccessful place where the plant feels uncomfortable and sick. In such cases, the situation can be corrected by transplanting. The best time to carry out this operation is autumn, September or the first weeks of October. It is not recommended to transplant later, since the rose needs time to adapt to a new place of residence before the onset of cold weather.

However, if circumstances require it, transplanting a climbing rose to another place is also possible. As soon as the ground thaws after the winter frosts, and the buds on the branches of roses have not yet had time to wake up, you can get down to business. To do this, the ground part of the plant is removed from the support, the bush itself is carefully dug in (moving in a circular manner), about 50-60 cm recede from the base of the plant.Do everything very carefully so as not to damage the root system of the rose, let the hole be deeper than necessary, but the roots will remain intact.

When transplanting, the same rules are followed as with a standard planting - the roots are straightened and directed downward, the free space in the pit is filled with the appropriate soil mixture, the soil is lightly tamped and watered generously with water.

After 3-4 days, you should fill up the earth (it will settle slightly), spud your rose.

There is one interesting nuance associated with replanting roses - their belonging to the climber and rambler groups. I will allow myself a small digression: all varieties of climbing roses can be figuratively divided into these two groups:

• climbers;
• ramblers.

Climbing varieties of climbing roses are called climbing, they form rough and thick branches that can reach 3-5 m in length. Climber shoots are not very flexible; when transplanting, they must be cut to half of their entire length!

Rambler are precisely curly roses with flexible and soft whip shoots, the length of which can reach 10 meters. Rumbler roses are characterized by active growth; when transplanted, they cut off all the shoots that are more than two years old. All young branches are left intact, but at the end calendar summer they must pinch the tops - this technique accelerates the lignification of the branches.

How to propagate a climbing rose?

There are four ways to propagate this rose: seeds, layers, cuttings and grafting. The most common and convenient option is grafting. Seed propagation is only possible if the seed is purchased at the appropriate store. As you know, independently harvested seeds from climbing roses growing in your country house or in the garden do not bear the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

Growing a climbing rose from seeds

Pre-soak the seeds in 3% hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes. Such disinfection creates a shield against the appearance of mold in the subsequent stages of plant growth. Then we remove the seeds from the solution, spread them on a thin layer of cotton wool, again soaked in hydrogen peroxide, cover it with a similar cotton layer on top, which is also saturated with peroxide.

Place the resulting "sandwich" in a plastic bag and hide it in the refrigerator, in the compartment for herbs and vegetables. We periodically inspect the seeds, change the cotton layers to new ones (also saturated with hydrogen peroxide).

After 40-50 days, the already germinated seed can be gently transferred into peat tablets or small plastic cups with the appropriate soil mixture. Seedling cassettes are also fine.

Watering young shoots should be done as the soil dries up. For plants to develop properly, they need to provide daily light for 10 hours. If you do everything right, then a couple of months after planting the seeds in tablets or cassettes, the first buds may appear on young roses. With the arrival of spring, new livestock are planted in open ground.

Reproduction of a climbing rose by cuttings

This is the easiest breeding method, almost always giving 100% positive results. For cutting cuttings, already faded or still flowering branches are suitable for you, which are taken from a rose in the very middle of summer, on the 10th of July.

The cut fragment should have at least two internodes, the place of the lower cut (45º angle) should be located close to the kidney. The upper cut (flat) is carried out at a considerable distance from the kidney.

Further, all the lower leaves are cut off from the cutting, and the upper ones are cut in half. A stalk is placed in a previously prepared container with sand or with a mixture of sand and soil, buried by about 1-2 cm, covered with a glass jar on top and removed to a well-lit place.

Now you will need to periodically water the cutting (without removing the can) and make sure that it does not fall under the straight lines sun rays.

Reproduction of a climbing rose by layering

In the spring, from the shoots growing from below, we choose the most attractive one and make cuts on it, right under the buds. Next, we make out a small groove-bed about 10 cm wide, put a thin layer of humus on the bottom of the groove, sprinkle it on top with the same layer of soil. Now we carefully bend the shoot, put it in the groove and fix it with metal brackets. After that, we cover the shoot with soil, but leave the top looking out. Then, as usual, we take care of the bush, but do not forget to water and fertilize the place of the buried shoot. After a year, when spring comes, the layers can be cut off from the bush and planted in a separate place as a full-fledged plant.

Reproduction of roses by grafting (budding) on \u200b\u200brose hips

A climbing rose can be grafted onto a rose hip bush - this technique is often used by gardeners and summer residents. Best time for this operation - the last weeks of July or the first half of August. Before budding, the dog rose should be watered generously with water.

Directly on the root collar of the bush, an incision is made in the bark in the form of the letter "T", after which the edges of the bark are slightly pulled back. This kind of "pocket" holds a peephole cut from a climbing rose. The peephole must be separated from the rose along with the bark and a small piece of wood.

Next, we firmly press the peephole to the neck of the stock and also tightly wrap this place with a special film for budding (freely sold in flower shops). After all the manipulations, the rose hip bush hounds, and so that the soil rises 5 cm above the grafting site (this is the minimum). After two or three weeks, the film can be slightly weakened, and with the arrival of a new spring, it is removed for good.

Climbing rose does not bloom - why?

This can also happen, at least on flower forums, gardeners often ask each other a similar question. Experimentally, 7 factors were found out that affect the absence of flowers in climbing roses.

Climbing rose - diseases and pests

Caterpillar of a rose-cut sawfly on a rose
Spider mite rose

At the initial stage, aphids can be manually removed from the branches, having previously put on garden gloves, but as soon as it feels like a full owner, you will need the help of chemicals. Insecticides "Sharpei", "Aktara", "Inta-Vir", as well as the good old "Karbofos" are guaranteed to help you cope with this problem.

If you want to try the so called folk methods fight, then grate laundry soap (1 tbsp. l.) and dissolve it in 1 liter of water. Irrigate rose bushes with this solution for a week, after which remove all affected fragments - it should help.

Spider mites love heat and drought, a silvery bloom on foliage is a sign of presence uninvited guest... Old methods of struggle with the help of thick tobacco infusion or wormwood broth give very good results. Contact ascaricide "Neoron" is one of the better means protecting roses from spider mites. One ml of the drug is dissolved in a liter of water, after which the bushes are irrigated. Sometimes it is enough to treat roses twice with this preparation for the tick to give up its positions. Bio-insecticide "Fitoverm" also proved to be excellent in this matter.

According to the reviews of experienced gardeners, the drug "Aktara" works great against rose sawfly. Preparations "Aktellik" and "Phosbecid" (15 ml per 10 liters of water) also show a good result, which applies not only to the sawfly, but also to other "lovers" of climbing roses.

In addition to all of the above, I would like to remind you of the spring and autumn spraying of roses with Bordeaux liquid - this is important.

Among the diseases of climbing roses, the most dangerous are: bacterial cancer, gray rot, powdery mildew, coniotirium (burnt bark).

Powdery mildew
Bacterial cancer

There is no cure for some diseases (bacterial cancer), but taking prevention seriously will minimize the risk of the disease.

Disinfection of the root system in a solution of 3% copper sulfate (before planting), removal of suspicious fragments and rapid irrigation of wound sites with the same copper sulfate are the most often recommended preventive measures.

The defeat of the coniotirium can be detected in the spring, as soon as the protective cover is removed from the roses. In this case, you must immediately cut off diseased branches (with the capture of healthy fragments) and burn them. Until the buds awaken, the plant can be treated with three percent iron sulfate; the ground around the bush must be watered too. The same Bordeaux liquid or the drug "Abiga-Peak" can also participate in the case while the buds have not yet blossomed.

In principle, to combat other diseases of roses, the usual scheme works - the removal of the affected areas and their subsequent burning, abundant irrigation of the plant with a solution of ferrous sulfate (3%), copper sulfate (2%) or Bordeaux liquid (3%). Such spraying is often carried out in three stages (with a weekly interval), but sometimes, especially at an early stage, one treatment may be enough.

Climbing roses - photos and names of winter-hardy varieties

The dream of any gardener is that your favorite flowers delight the eyes with lush buds for as long as possible and endure wintering staunchly. It is simply unrealistic to mention all winter-hardy and long-blooming varieties of climbing roses, but I would like to highlight some of them and briefly describe their main qualities.

Climbing rose "Iceberg"

It fully justifies its name, its snow-white buds will bloom for a very long time (until autumn) and profusely. Re-flowering - distinctive feature of this rose, it grows rather quickly and in the shortest possible time can braid an arch or a wall of a building. The plant is unpretentious, cold-resistant, the aroma is weak.

Variety "Iceberg", photo:

Climbing rose "Lavinia"

Boasts cupped flowers of rich pink shade, undemanding to care, re-flowering, aroma with light nutmeg notes. It grows up to 3 m in height, has good immunity to most rose diseases, blooms continuously until the first frost.

Variety "Lavinia", photo:

Variety "Polka"

It is characterized by an undulating bloom, approximately five waves per summer. Terry buds, apricot shade, gradually turning into a creamy color. He loves sunlit places very much, has good disease resistance, can grow up to 3 m in height. This variety has powerful and spreading shoots with large thorns, weak aroma.

Photo of a climbing rose of the "Polka" variety:

Climbing rose "Don Juan"

Luxurious double rose with large (12 cm in diameter) flowers of deep red color. It is an excellent option for decorating the walls of buildings and any vertical supports. It grows up to 3.5 m in height, loves the sun, but also blooms without problems in partial shade. These roses can be cut to make bouquets, they are very fragrant and keep fresh for a long time.

Variety "Don Juan", photo:

Variety "Flamentants"

This rose is considered one of the most attractive red climbing roses. Her buds are large (8 cm in diameter), double, multi-petal. Possesses increased frost resistance, powerful bushes can reach 2-3 m in height. With proper care, this variety can grow and bloom in one place for about 20 years. The aroma of the rose is very delicate, but not very pronounced.

Photo of roses "Flamement":

Climbing rose "Handel"

The buds of this variety have a very interesting color - white-pink, with bright crimson edges and a slightly yellowish center. The buds are large, about 10 cm in diameter, the bush grows to 2.5-3 m in height. The rose is multi-blooming, disease resistance is average, one should beware of black spot and ash.

Variety "Handel", photo:

Variety "Bobby James"

Small-flowered representative, but the most attractive in its category. Can reach 8 m in height, resistant to disease, semi-double white flowers with a yellow center (about 4.5 cm in diameter), outwardly resemble cherry flowers. It has a pronounced musky aroma; during flowering, the branches are simply covered with buds, so that behind them you can hardly see the foliage. The buds themselves have the ability to slowly open over about 10-12 days. A spectacular and incredibly luxurious variety

Photo of a rose variety "Bobby James":

Climbing rose "Golden Perfume"

A re-flowering variety whose flowers bloom slowly, to the delight of gardeners. Large buds (up to 10 cm in diameter) of this rose exude a very strong aroma that can be heard even from afar. Flowers of a rich bright yellow hue will adorn the bush until the arrival of the first frost. The shoots grow up to 2-3 m in height, the foliage also looks very attractive - rich green, dense, creating a beautiful contrast with yellow flowers.

Variety "Golden Perfume", photo:

Variety "Parade"

One of the most winter-hardy re-flowering climbing roses, it has large (10 cm in diameter) multi-petal buds of a juicy cherry shade or rich dark pink. Luxurious inflorescences are so large and heavy that the shoots literally bend from their weight. It blooms throughout the summer, blooms slowly, reaches 2-3.5 m in height, resistant to precipitation.

Roses of the "Parade" variety, photo:

Climbing rose "Schwanensee"

Another variety with increased cold resistance. The multi-petal buds of this rose have a classic shape, medium size (7-9 cm in diameter) and a very delicate color - white, with a creamy pink heart. Schwannensee blooms until the very frost, slowly blooming and spreading a delicate refined aroma. The variety is hardy, multi-flowering, rain-resistant. The bush can reach 3 m in height.

Variety "Schwannensee", photo:

Variety "Casino"

This rose is suitable for cutting into a bouquet, has a bright fruity aroma, lemon-colored buds are most beautiful when loose. A multi-petalled variety, the diameter of a double flower reaches 9-11 cm, its color is darker inside, the outer petals are paler. The bush grows up to 3-4 m in height, blooms profusely, luxuriantly, repeatedly throughout the summer.

Climbing rose of the "Casino" variety, photo:

Of course, a climbing rose will require an investment of time and effort from you, but you must agree that its luxurious beauty fully justifies such "sacrifices." Follow all the above recommendations, carefully consider the choice of residence for the rose.

Do not plant it near bushes and trees with powerful roots, do not forget to feed it with appropriate fertilizers in time.

Provide it with reliable support, the types of which I will tell you about in the next article.

Let a climbing rose also settle on your site. Planting and care in the open field, the nuances of reproduction and transplanting, a rough idea of \u200b\u200bindividual varieties - you now know all this and can apply my advice in practice.

The following videos will successfully complement the article:

It is impossible to create a beautiful garden without a royal flower. He accompanies people for more than one millennium due to his great popularity. It is planted in the most prominent place in the hope of admiring a luxurious, long-lasting flowering. But sometimes it is not there, and gardeners wonder why the rose does not bloom? What is wrong and how to return her wonderful biological feature?

1. Common Causes
2. Landing in the wrong land
3. Bad place
4. Incorrect cropping
5. What to do with a weaving rose?
6. Need to pick wilting flowers?
7. Malnutrition
8. Correct wintering
9. Eliminating wild growth and dormant shoots
10. The influence of the external disease-causing environment
11. Conclusion

Common Causes

There are several problems that can be dealt with and influenced the development of the flower.

Buying an unsuccessful seedling, because they are sold even in grocery outlets, what quality can you dream of?

A strong, healthy seedling is best purchased from a nursery or a specialized store. It will easily take root, develop strong shoots, and please with flowering.

How to choose a good seedling:

• The age of a young plant should not exceed three years

• If the root system is open, you need to make sure that it is developed, the roots are healthy, there are no dry, rotten

• A good seedling has up to four healthy stems

• The branches should be deep green. Spots of all shades of brown, bark in cracks - all this suggests that the plant is weak, and you do not need to acquire it

Landing in the wrong land

Rose is a demanding flower. It will not grow in heavy soil, in clay, in constantly washed away, on rocky, swampy lands. Sandy, acidic soil does not suit them either. In it, all the usefulness immediately sinks into the lower layers, and the flower does not have time to feed on them.

The king's flower is vital for light, nutritious soil, well absorbing water, breathable. The land on the site chosen for the rose bushes can be made fertile or suitable by adding organic humus, sand, compost, peat and other useful mixtures to it. They are buried in a planting hole and dug up.

If the soil is too light, you need to put a substrate in the hole, which is denser and retains moisture. Damp areas can be dried with additional drainage, grooves. Fertile soil is poured into a thin layer of earth in the root zone.

Bad place

The rose is not able to bloom in a shaded area. This is a light-loving plant, but growing in the dark, in a through wind, does not develop, does not set buds. It is sick, the shoots do not become woody, they remain blind, and die during the winter.

Being constantly in the bright sun, the inflorescences burn out and the petals fall off. Planted on the south side of the house, roses are often severely burned.

Such reasons can be eliminated by choosing the correct location for the landing hole. To:

• On a hot afternoon, the scorching rays of the sun did not fall on the rose

• The bush was protected from through and north winds

• There were no mature trees nearby. The rose does not tolerate competitors, and the tree will take all the nutrition on itself

Incorrect cropping

The rose should be pruned correctly. This procedure is one of the main reasons for the lack of flowers. After all, the useless nutrition of empty shoots wears out the plant.

In the springtime, until the buds have blossomed and after the end of the return frosts, the main pruning is carried out. Her rules:

• Use only a sharpened tool so as not to make burrs, not tear the bark, the shoot should not bend or break

• The correct cut is above the outer eye, which is directed outward from the center of the bush. This technique makes the bush lush, spreading, well-lit and ventilated. Shoots should not grow in the middle of the bush

• Slices are performed at an angle, large stumps are not left. They will dry out and can turn into a source of disease

The first, after removing the winter shelter, do sanitary pruning. Broken stems, frozen, weak, blind, on which flowers are not expected are removed. The rest of the branches can be worked on.

Then pruning is carried out, forming a beautiful bush. It can be of any shape, height, which will allow you to correct flowering in the future.

At this stage, every gardener can choose any option:

• Carry out a weak pruning by one third of the entire length of the stem, then lateral buds will grow, creating flower stalks

• Trimming is fine - only half of the shoot. This gives the bush splendor, because it will begin to throw out side branches with flower buds under the cut

• Cardinal pruning involves leaving the remnants of shoots on the bush, cut off by two-thirds of the entire length. This is of course stressful for the plant, but it is also an incentive to release new, healthy, strong branches that create a luxurious voluminous bush. You should not use this method annually, so as not to weaken the plant.

If you have information about what to do and how, with a practically non-flowering rose bush, you can achieve one-time, poor flowering or luxurious and long-lasting throughout the summer.

In the first version, all shoots are cut in length in the same way, in the second - at different heights. It is important to know that thick shoots are cut moderately, thin ones, weak ones - significantly and lower. You should not regret them, competent pruning will only benefit the bush.

How to deal withrosewhipsqueeze?

A rose that weaves needs only sanitary pruning in spring, without shortening the shoots. The main feature of such a plant is that it is the lateral buds that are capable of forming buds. Therefore, such grown branches, in order to stimulate abundant flowering, must be placed in a horizontal position on supports or trellises.

There is reasoning among novice flower growers that the buds of a climbing rose need to be cut off after flowering. It turns out that it is not recommended to do this, the bush does not bloom after that, and subsequently it will slowly develop.

If necessaryfrompick withering flowers?

There will be no flowering if fading peduncles remain on the bush and long branches do not pinch.

You must proceed as follows:

• It is not necessary to wait for the petals to fall off the withering buds by themselves. They are removed as soon as they lose attractiveness.

• The flower is cut over the nearest healthy bud at a height of up to eight millimeters. But you need to make sure that young shoots with several flowers can withstand the cut branch.

• On bushes with large roses, the stems are cut, on which there are incomplete leaves

• Do not leave large eyes looking at the center of the bush

Malnutrition

Newbie gardeners apply only nitrogen-containing fertilizers under rose bushes during the growing season. Such top dressing contributes to the rapid growth of branches, flowering is inhibited and occurs only at the end of the season and even then scarce.

In order for roses to grow well and bloom beautifully all season, you need to make the appropriate dressing at each stage of the growing season:

• In the spring, after pruning, the bush grows new stems. In the formation of a chic bush, complex nutritional formulations with nitrogen, forsphorus and potassium

• In summer, during the period of abundant flowering, the flower is fertilized with magnesium to restore strength.

• From the second half of summer, the bush is fed with potassium and phosphorus. The excellent composition of Kalimagnesia will properly prepare the plant for the cold season

• The rose responds well to feeding with humus, obsolete manure. It is poured a little like mulch and the health of the flower will immediately improve

Correct wintering

Improper preparation of the plant for cold weather also affects the condition of the rose. What you shouldn't do:

• Feed with nitrogen fertilizers at the end of the season. After such stimulation, new shoots and leaves grow rapidly, without having time to ripen, they will freeze during frosts and begin to rot

• Do not pick off leaves in autumn. Such a reception in October gives the plant a signal about the onset of cold weather, and it itself begins to prepare

• Prune bushes. As you know, this procedure stimulates the appearance of lateral branches, and the release of new buds from the leaf sinuses. Instead of the plant preparing for the dormant period, it will waste energy on the useless growth of young green stems, and when exhausted, it will not be able to winter well

Elimination of wild growth anddrinkers escapes

Cultivated roses are usually grafted on a wild rose, so sometimes non-varietal shoots grow. They can be recognized by their rapid growth, they have a lot of thorns, small leaves. Without cutting them out, the bush will not bloom over time and will turn into a wild one.

Such thick stems should be removed immediately near the root. To do this, the soil is raked up until the grafting itself and the overgrowth is cut out with a sharp tool. The cut can be pollinated with ash.

Sleeping shoots are found on every bush. There are no peduncles on their tops, the growth point seems to have dried up. Such a stem is often weak, deformed, low, not developing.

If there are enough such specimens on the bush, instead of forming buds, it wastes energy on empty branches. In this case, cropping is necessary. Do not feel sorry for them, because they will still be of no use. And after pruning, the growth of new, flowering shoots will begin.

Influenceexternal disease-causing environment

If the rose bush does not bloom, it may be attacked by pests or diseases:

• With powdery mildew, a bloom appears on the green mass. It is necessary to remove the affected organs (leaves, stems) and spray with fungicides with sulfur - Fitosporin, Topaz, Baktofit and others. In spring, for prevention, the bush is dusted with ash, treated with mullein infusion

• Gray rot appears in the spring as a gray bloom. In the summer, it is recognizable by its brown spots. To get rid of it, you need to cut and remove all affected stems, leaves, flowers

• Black spot is difficult to deal with. In summer, a fungal infection affects most roses with black spots. This is facilitated by - planting a plant in the shade, thickening of the bush, lack of light, ventilation, the presence of weeds. The affected organs are cut off and removed, spraying with Ridomil, Parafit, etc. is carried out. folk recipes an infusion of mullein is considered effective, which is treated weekly from the moment the kidneys appear

• Powdery mildew appears as purple dots on leaf plates, then passes to branches, young leaves. The disease is similar to phytophthora and are saved from it by chemical preparations Ridomil Gold, Parafit, etc. As well as by removing the affected areas

• If there are few caterpillars, slugs, snails, they are removed by hand, if there are many, then insecticides are used

• Green aphids can be seen during the active development of the plant. It covers the tops of the shoots and eats up all the buds. It is not possible to cope here manually, it is necessary to sprinkle with nettle infusion, a solution with soap

• After spider mites remain on the leaves yellow spots, there is a cobweb on the back of the sheet plate. The plant needs to be rescued with acaricides - Rapeseed oil, Neoron, Fitoverm. The affected areas are cut, removed and burned

• The leaf rolls eat the edges of the leaves. Then they curl up, and inside them there is a spider web with a cocoon and a caterpillar. Treatment must be carried out with a systemic insecticide

Conclusion

Spraying with chemicals should be carried out in the evening hours if the weather is hot. In cloudy weather, such procedures are performed at any time. Do not exceed the dosage and take better precautions: use glasses, gloves, a respirator.

After determining the reasons why there are no flowers on the rose bush and after eliminating them, any grower is able to grow beautiful roses that will delight with abundant flowering all season.

Climbing roses ennoble household plots, facades of houses, fences. They braid arches, gazebos, columns, garlands. The place where such a rose is planted immediately becomes the main focus on the site near the house or in the garden. Many bred varieties come in different colors and shapes. The lack of flowers in a rose is a huge problem for the grower. To understand why buds do not appear, you need to understand the reasons for this phenomenon.

Landing place

In the first year of life, the rose does not bloom. The young plant takes root in a new place, gets used to the climate and soil. All forces are directed to the development of the root system and new shoots.

Much depends on the chosen place for the queen of the garden. The rose will not bloom if it grows in the shade. It takes enough light and warmth to form flowers. Daylight hours should be 8-10 hours. In a shady place, the stems develop incorrectly, they stretch towards the light, stretch out, not having time to ripen. Shoots can freeze in winter. Direct rays are also detrimental to the climbing bush. In the heat, few buds appear, the sun burns them, does not allow them to bloom.

To prevent water stagnation, the selected area should have a slight slope. The length of the roots reaches 2 meters, therefore, it is impossible to plant in areas where groundwater is close to the surface of the earth. If there is a risk of increased moisture, then a small hill is ideal for flowers.

Rose does not like windy areas and drafts. In cold weather, the plant stops blooming and growing. A real queen doesn't want to share her space. Therefore, you should not plant bushes next to trees or shrubs. With a powerful rhizome, trees will take nutrients from the soil. The rose simply won't have enough nutrients to bloom. The beauty is planted at a distance of 70 cm from the nearest plant.

Attention!

It is not recommended to plant a plant close to the walls of the building, the risk of rapid depletion of the soil is likely. The minimum distance from the building is 50-60 cm.

Weak ground

Rosa prefers fertile, loamy, loose soil. Lack of flowers may indicate depletion of the soil. Clay and sandy soil heavy on the rosebush.

To obtain a light substrate, sand is poured under the bush, carefully loosen the earth. A little lime will help make the earth crumbly. To enrich the soil, top dressing is applied:

• in the spring they are fed with ammonium nitrate, 30 g of the substance per square of earth, repeat after 15 days;
• organics - manure infusion 1:10, 4 liters of solution are consumed per plant;
• during the period of bud development, the bushes are fertilized with nitrogen.

Before planting seedlings, the soil is loosened to a depth of 70 cm. The quality of the soil and the cultivation of the land affect the formation of buds.

Lack or excess of fertilizer

A large amount of substances can harm the bushes, for example, nitrogen will stimulate the growth of foliage and shoots, but flowers will not appear. To increase soil fertility, add humus, humus, phosphorus, and special bacteria. A way out of the situation with an excess of nitrogen - add potassium salt, mix it with superphosphate.

Wood ash is a good food for the rose. It contains all the necessary substances, including potassium.

In the second year, pink bushes are fertilized several times throughout the year:

• for the first time - organic matter is introduced at the beginning of summer;
• the second feeding is done 3 weeks after the first - with potash and phosphorus fertilizers;
• in July, you can add complex fertilizers for roses.

Nitrogen supplements should not be used in the middle of summer.

In the third year, they feed:

• april - 100 g of complex mineral fertilizer per plant;
• fertilize the second time after the flowers wither - with mineral additives;
• in September, you will need superphosphate 30 g per square meter.

Preparation of organic fertilizer: two weeks before application, manure is placed in the container, filled with water 1: 3. Potassium sulfate 30 g, superphosphate 20 g are added. The whole mass is stirred, insisted for 10-12 days. Before watering, the solution is diluted with water 1:10, 3-4 liters are poured under the bush. In the fall, while digging the aisle, 1 kg of compost is added to the square of the earth.

A lot of overgrowth

The growth of stems and new shoots requires nutrition. New root growth begins to develop next to the bush. If you do not cut off all unnecessary branches in time, the plant will turn into a shapeless bush and will start to run wild. The forces will go to the development of greenery, the buds will cease to appear.

Cut off the root shoots near the ground with sharp garden shears. Small branches with thorns and leaves are removed. Forming a neat bush will help throw all the resources into flowering.

Pruning the bush in the spring rejuvenates the plant and allows for more flowers. Weak, sick, unproductive, and also the stems growing inside the bush are cut off. Thanks to pruning, the inside of the rose is aired.

Excessive pruning of the bush leads to improper plant development.

Diseases and pests

Excess moisture causes fungal diseases... Direct sunlight, lack of nutrition, cold, windy nights weaken the immune system of the rose. She begins to hurt, if you do not notice the signs of the disease in a timely manner, the flower may die.

Powdery mildew

Above 20 C *, during the growing season with high humidity, the fungus Spherotika begins to develop. A gray bloom forms on the leaves, which appears on the buds and branches. Tissues are destroyed, parts of the plant die off.

As a preventive measure, the rose garden is planted in sunny, ventilated areas. Digging the soil also gives good results. The affected parts are cut off, destroyed.

The drugs are used:

• in March, they are sprayed with vitriol with potassium (sulfate) 0.3%;
• spraying is carried out with colloidal sulfur 1%;
• spray a solution of soda and soap on the bush, 50 g per bucket of water;
• until the roses have bloomed, copper and soap are used during the growing season: 300 ml of liquid soap per 10 liters of liquid, 30 g of copper sulfate are poured into 1 liter of water, combined, mixed.

In summer, sprayed 3 times every 8-10 days. Processing is carried out in October before preparing for winter.

On the bark arise brown spotsthat turn black, forming rings around the stem. Such branches must be cut off. In order for the plant to resist cancer, feed it with potassium, stop feeding it with nitrogen. In September, potassium sulfate 20 g, superphosphate 30 g are introduced. Timely shelter for the winter, cutting off diseased shoots, ventilating the bushes during thaws is necessary.

Rust

After rains, when it is warm, the phragmidium fungus moves through the water and falls on neighboring bushes. It can be carried by gardeners on overalls, hands, tools. Orange spots are formed on stems, peduncles, leaves. The foliage dries up and falls off, the flowers are deformed.

In the fight against rust, all the foliage is removed, fired. They dig up the ground, the bushes are treated with Bordeaux liquid, iron sulfate 3%. In the spring they are treated with Hom, Falcon.

Peronosporosis

In hot, humid times, the disease develops. Brown spots appear on the leaf blades. To avoid this, roses are fertilized with phosphorus and potassium. Fungicides are used: Zircon, Strobi, Privekur. In case of severe damage, the entire bush is removed in order to avoid mass infection.

Chlorosis

If there are not enough trace elements in the soil, the foliage turns yellow or white, and subsequently it falls off. It is necessary to establish which element the flower is missing and feed it. You can take soil samples and analyze it.

Thrips

Barely visible insects, yellow or brown. The female lays 300 eggs during the life cycle. Consequences - the buds do not open, the leaves are deformed. To kill insects, one of the following products is diluted: Fufanon 10 ml, Karbofos 60 g, Intavir 1 tablet per bucket of water.

Spider mite

An effective remedy against ticks is a tincture of tobacco, wormwood, makhorka, yarrow. Wormwood helps to fight caterpillars, aphids, mites, rust. For prevention, all rose bushes are sprayed with it.

A black insect with a shiny shade up to 10 mm in length. The eggs are found in the leaf axils. The larvae move inside the stem and damage it. The plant dries up. To combat them, use the same means as with thrips.

Rose leaflet

Insects lay eggs on leaf plates, they curl up. White larvae appear inside. In July, they grow up to 1 cm. The rolled leaves are plucked and destroyed. The substances used are: Spark, Intavir, Karbofos.

The rose is also loved by other harmful insects: green rose aphid, rose cicada, caterpillars. A decoction of horsetail strengthens the immunity of a climbing rose, has a detrimental effect on ticks, fights rust, powdery mildew... For infusion, take 1 kg of grass, pour cold water 1:10, insist for a day, boil for half an hour, filter. Spray bushes on hot days.

Climbing rose wintering

Improper preparation of plants for winter can negatively affect flowering next year. Roses need shelter in winter time... Low temperatures can destroy delicate bushes. Spring thaw, dampness, rains cause fungal diseases. The solution to the problem is synthetic material for covering: spanboard, agrotek, lutrasil. They use frames, arcs, stakes. You can use spruce branches, spruce sawdust. For this, the shoots are bent to the ground and placed on a layer of spruce branches. The plants are buried on one side and laid so that they do not break.

Do not cover roses with plastic wrap. The greenhouse effect can cause budding during winter.

The bushes are covered at a temperature of 5-7 degrees, not lower. This is mainly done in November in dry weather. Starting in September, watering is reduced, potash fertilizers are added, the tops are cut off. The supports are removed, placed on fallen leaves and covered.

• the difference between a climbing rose and other varieties is that it blooms on last year's shoots, therefore, they must cover the growth for the winter;
• in the second year, many side shoots grow, if they are not removed, then in the third year of life the rose will give few flowers;
• the remaining shoots are cut by a third, this procedure awakens the lower buds;
• it is better to lubricate the sections with brilliant green or iodine;
• the formation of the bush is done only after flowering;
• rose loves horse manure, flowering will be abundant;
• if you need to plant bushes against the wall, then this should be the south side;
• in the fall, when pruning, about 5 strong annual shoots are left;
• it is impossible to allow the rose to spread on the ground, if it does not braid the arch, arbor, then it is necessary to make supports for it;
• while working in the garden, when pruning branches, use a sterile tool;
• do not break off shoots or buds, only cut off with sharp scissors or pruners;
• a plant transplant is done as a last resort, if an unfortunate place is chosen and the rose does not bloom, it is transplanted in the spring, before the buds awaken, or in September.

In the spring, when the temperature rises to 10 degrees, the shelter is removed. Without fresh air, fungi can develop and the plant will get sick. Airing on winter days, when the thaw comes, is a must for a climbing rose.

I don't know myself, I found it on the internet, maybe figure out your reason:
1. Incorrectly selected or cultivated soil
Roses love fertile loose soil, so too dense and heavy soil is unlikely to work. If, nevertheless, the choice is small, and a place with depleted soil is chosen, then it is worth more carefully approaching the issue of feeding. A mandatory stage in preparing the hole for planting is loosening the soil to a depth of 50-70 cm, it is to this depth that the roots of the rose grow.

2. Wrong location

Roses love open spaces, well lit by the sun and sheltered from the wind. In the shade and in a draft, these fragile flowers will not only not bloom, but generally will develop very slowly.

3. Insufficient watering

Roses tolerate drought, but the plants will throw all their strength into maintaining vitality, and not blooming. Therefore, in hot times of the day, the soil around the bushes should be regularly moistened.

4. Poorly tolerated wintering

A rose bush can stop the development and formation of buds, if it has not wintered well, froze. Therefore, you need to take a very responsible approach to this issue, starting preparation even before the season of prolonged rains, otherwise the bush will gain moisture.

5. Incorrect cropping

This is a whole science, and there are specific rules for different groups and varieties of roses. For example, if roses are blooming again, you need to remove the upper part of the shoot with a dried flower, cutting it obliquely and leaving 5-8 mm above the next eye. You should carefully prune the climbing roses of the Rambler group, which bloom only on last year's shoots, removing only the frozen ends of the lashes - then you will not have to wonder why the rose does not bloom.

Periodically, old bushes need to be rejuvenated, also pruning according to the rules, removing thin and weak branches, as well as old woody lashes, leaving 3-5 strong lashes.

6. "Feral" rose bush

Since most of the roses in our area are grafted, and not self-rooted, you can skip and not remove in time the wild growth from the stock, a bush on which a cultivated rose sprout is grafted. These wild whips gradually weaken the plant and the rose can easily lose its varietal qualities. It is very easy to recognize the insidious growth: it grows from below, the leaves are smaller, a large number of thorns. As soon as you see something like this, rip up the ground and cut off the branch at the very base. 7.

7. Improper feeding or overfeeding

Sometimes a rose bush instead of flowers begins to violently form lush foliage and actively grow upward. This is, in most cases, a consequence of an excess of nitrogen fertilizers. This is corrected by the introduction of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers or just ash, but the effect will not be noticeable immediately.

We hope that the analyzed situations will help you avoid mistakes and now you already know exactly why the rose does not bloom.

Rose is the queen of the garden. But the queen is capricious and often refuses to bloom. Among the reasons for this unpleasant phenomenon are easily fixable and those that cause a lot of trouble. In any case, we must quickly deal with the reasons and try to help the plants.

Why Roses Don't Bloom

Not all summer residents plant roses at home: there is a lot of trouble with them. But if you get a good understanding of agricultural technology, the garden will become much more beautiful. But roses refuse to bloom for many reasons.

Young or old plants

A very young rose, the first year of life, and does not have to bloom. It should take root properly and gain strength, build up the root system. Moreover, if the first-year rose decides to bloom, it is better not to let her do this, to cut off the buds that have appeared.

A rose that is too old may not bloom either: it is not for nothing that you have to transplant plants from time to time, and between these procedures it is necessary to carry out anti-aging pruning.

Bushes that are too old may refuse to bloom

Wrong landing site

Roses are heat-loving plants that do not tolerate drafts, so the location of the bush is of great importance. The rose may refuse to bloom in the shade, in the winds, in places with a close location of groundwater. Perhaps it should even have been planted on an artificial mound, and it can also lead to sad results.

Bad soil

Roses bloom well on breathable fertile soils. If the bush is planted in clay, you can not wait for flowering: when planting, it was necessary to refine the soil to a depth of at least half a meter, adding sand and various fertilizers.

Wild growth

Florists often grow varietal roses grafted onto wilds, usually on wild rose. In such cases, over time, a lot of root growth is formed around the bushes, weakening the main bush, taking away food and moisture from it. This can lead to a lack of flowering, so the shoots must be systematically removed.

Rosehip shoots often grow near grafted roses.

Incorrect cropping

Roses are pruned annually and according to the rules. Without this procedure, flowering worsens and fades from year to year. Too strong pruning depletes the bushes, superficial pruning does not allow the formation of new strong shoots. Pruning should be done with a sharp, clean pruning shear to prevent accidental infection.

Incorrect watering

Roses need a lot of moisture to bloom, without watering they bloom poorly, and in extreme cases they may not bloom at all. It is best to water the roses infrequently, but abundantly, to a great depth. After watering, it is necessary to loosen, or better - mulch the soil. Any bulk materials used in gardening are used as mulch.

Improper nutrition

Roses are a must, but the wrong balance of nutrients can inhibit flowering. So, with an excess of nitrogen, foliage will grow violently, and you can not wait for flowers.

Freezing or damping

And the timely gradual cleaning of the covering material in the spring. Shelter should be sufficient to survive the frost, but roses that have not been opened in spring can quickly rot from damping and refuse to bloom.

In most regions, roses need to be covered for the winter, but be sure to open them in time.

Diseases and pests

Diseases and pests in roses are diverse, and if the plant is weakened, then we will not talk about any flowering. It is necessary to fight these phenomena in time, to spray the bushes with suitable preparations.

How to help plants

Having dealt with the reason for the lack of flowering, we must try to eliminate it. If no diseases are found, everything is in order with watering and feeding, the shoots are cut out, the planting site is perfect, but there are no flowers, you should try the following:

• cut out extra shoots: the thinnest, growing in the wrong direction, "blind", curves;
• perform a stimulating pruning: the shoots are pruned over a strong leaf or bud;
• feed the roses with complex fertilizer with a predominance of potassium; it would be nice to add humates.

Chances are, these simple steps will help you see flowers again.

Video: first aid in the absence of flowering roses