How to properly apply peat fertilizer, and what it is for. Plot on a peat bog: what to plant? You can plant flowers in peat at home

Peat is a mixture of semi-decayed plant residues under conditions of excessive moisture. It is one of the most popular organic fertilizers, especially for beginner gardeners.

They try to acquire it as much as possible and immediately apply it to the soil or use it for growing seedlings. But at the same time they often fail, because. plants fertilized with only peat do not grow well enough, and seedlings grown in pots filled with peat alone often die for some reason. To avoid these failures, you need to know what kind of peat can be used, where and how.

As you know, peat is different - high, lowland and transitional. This is something you need to be aware of when buying it. They are easy to distinguish from each other, because. they have completely different colors.

• horse peat formed on the poor nutrients elevated places of relief. It is light in color, with an increased amount of organic matter, very acidic (pH 2.5–4.5), difficult to decompose, very moisture-intensive, with a low ash content (up to 5%), with a very low nitrogen content (two times less than in lowland peat) and other nutrients.
• lowland peat, as a rule, dark color (brown and even black-brown). It has a much higher degree of decomposition of organic matter and ash content, its acidity is often close to neutral.
• transitional peat occupies an intermediate position in its properties.

Lowland peat can be used for soil application without composting. But before being introduced into the soil, it is well crushed and “weathered” in heaps for at least six months. But it's not the best the best option, since the conversion of the nitrogen contained in it into a form convenient for plants will occur slowly.

That is why the use of even low-lying peat in its pure form as a fertilizer is inefficient, and sometimes harmful, since dry peat, when applied to the soil, absorbs the moisture needed by plants from the soil.

As can be seen from all that has been said, there is little sense in introducing unprepared peat into the soil, because. it potentially contains only nitrogen in abundance, but even in low-lying, well-decomposed peat, it is practically in a state inaccessible to plants.

In the first years after being introduced into the soil, such peat only increases the absorption capacity of the soil and improves its air regime. Therefore, we must remember that if the soil in the garden is well cultivated, loose and fertile, then it is practically useless to introduce such unprepared peat into it.

Another thing is if there is little organic matter in the soil, especially if it is heavy, clayey, swimming, or, conversely, sandy or light. sandy soil. In this case, with the help of peat, it is possible to significantly improve the physical properties and structure of clay soil, make it more loose, water and moisture permeable, and in sandy soil, on the contrary, significantly increase its moisture capacity.

To increase the humus content on soddy-podzolic soil by 1%, it is necessary to add 2–3 buckets of peat per 1 sq.m. At the same time, it is better to scatter it on the soil surface in autumn, and gradually mix the surface layer with peat in spring. Since peat retains all available substances well, it can be applied to the soil even in winter directly on the snow. In addition, peat is usually relatively cheap.

Some gardeners sometimes from fresh lowland peat with the addition of garden soil to it arrange bulk beds for growing cucumbers and zucchini, planting seedlings in holes completely filled with good humus.

As long as the roots of plants grow beyond the boundaries of such a hole, low-lying peat will already lose its negative qualities to a sufficient extent. When arranging such beds, wood ash is added to peat, 2 cups per bucket of peat and ordinary garden soil.

But, of course, it is much more useful to cover a pile of low-lying peat with a film and hold it for 3-4 months, occasionally pouring water, diluted slurry or herbal infusions. During this time, the peat will “ripen”, and it will already be a “really” useful peat.

And acidic high-moor peat in its pure form cannot be introduced into the soil and used for growing seedlings at all. Such peat is used mainly for animal bedding. Before being introduced into the soil, it needs serious composting. It is used for the preparation of peat-dung, peat-fecal, peat-phosphorite, peat-ash and other composts.

GARDEN

HOW TO "IMPROVE" PEAT SOILS

Many collective gardens, especially in the eighties of the last century, in our region were laid on the territory of drained swamps and peat workings. Peat soils in these areas have some specific properties, which, if not eliminated, can adversely affect horticultural plants for a long time.
Peat soils are very diverse in their physical properties. But all of them contain little phosphorus, magnesium and especially potassium, they lack many trace elements and, first of all, copper.
Depending on their origin and the thickness of the peat layer that forms them, peat soils are divided into lowland, transitional, and upland.
Most suitable for growing horticultural and garden plants low-lying peatlands, often located in wide hollows with a slight slope. These soils have good vegetation cover. Peat on such peatlands is well decomposed, so it is almost black or dark brown, lumpy. The acidity of the peat layer in such areas is weak or close to neutral.
Lowland peatlands have a fairly high supply of nutrients compared to transitional and upland peatlands, especially nitrogen. Unfortunately, this nitrogen is found in low-lying peatlands in a form almost inaccessible to plants, and only after ventilation can it become available to plants.
It is possible to accelerate the transition of this nitrogen to a state available to plants by draining peat soil and enhancing the activity of microorganisms that contribute to the decomposition of organic matter by introducing a small amount of manure, ripe compost or humus into the soil.
Raised peatlands are usually excessively moistened, since they have a rather limited runoff of rain and melt water. They are highly fibrous, since they do not have conditions for a more significant decomposition of plant residues. This leads to a strong acidification of peat, which explains its very high acidity. Such peatlands have a light brown color.
Nutrients in high-moor peat, which are scarce in any peat soil, are in a state inaccessible to plants. And soil microorganisms that help maintain soil fertility are often simply absent in them. When laying gardens and orchards on such soils, their cultivation requires large expenditures. And in its pure form, high-moor peat can practically only be used as bedding for livestock, since it absorbs slurry well.
All types of peaty soils are characterized by low thermal conductivity, so they slowly thaw and warm up in spring, and are much more likely to be exposed to return frosts, which delays the start of spring work.
It is believed that the temperature of such soils is on average 2-3 degrees lower during the growing season compared to the temperature of mineral soils. On peat soils, frosts end later in spring and begin earlier in autumn. create a more favorable temperature regime on such soils, it is possible in only one way - by removing excess water and creating loose structural soil.
Peat soils in their natural state are almost unsuitable for growing horticultural and horticultural plants. But due to the presence of a large amount of organic matter in them, they have a significant "hidden" fertility potential, all four "keys" of which are in your hands. These keys are lowering the groundwater level, liming the soil, applying mineral additives and using organic fertilizers. And now let's try to get acquainted with these "keys" in a little more detail.
Reducing the groundwater level
To remove excess moisture in the area and improve the air regime, peat soils often have to be drained, especially in new areas. Of course, it is easier to do this all at once in the entire garden, but sometimes you have to do this only on your site, trying to create a local simple drainage system.
And if you are very unlucky and you have a site where the groundwater level is very high and it is quite difficult to lower it, then there will be even more worries. In order to prevent further contact of tree roots with these same groundwater, you will have to solve not one, but two "strategic" tasks at once - to reduce the level of groundwater in the area as a whole and at the same time raise the soil level at the site of planting trees and berry bushes by creating artificial mounds from imported soil. As the trees grow, the diameter of these mounds will need to be increased annually.
Soil liming
Liming of acidic soil is understood as the introduction of lime or other alkaline materials into it to reduce its acidity. In this case, the most common chemical reaction of neutralization occurs.
But in addition to this, the liming of peat soils also enhances the activity of various microorganisms that assimilate nitrogen or decompose plant residues contained in peat. In this case, brown fibrous peat turns into an almost black earthy mass. At the same time, hard-to-reach forms of nutrients contained in peat turn into compounds that are easily digestible by plants. And phosphorus and potassium fertilizers introduced into the soil are fixed in the upper layers of the soil, are not washed out of it by groundwater, remaining available to plants for a long time.
Knowing the acidity of the soil in your area, alkaline materials are introduced in the fall. The dose of their application depends on the level of soil acidity and for acidic peat soils, on average, about 60 kg of ground limestone per 100 square meters. meters of area, for medium acid peat soils - an average of about 30 kg, for slightly acidic - about 10 kg. On peat soils, in acidity close to neutral, limestone can not be applied at all.
But all these average doses of lime application vary greatly depending on the value of acidity, especially on acidic peatlands. Therefore, before adding lime, its specific amount must be clarified once again depending on the exact value of the acidity of the peat bog.
A wide variety of alkaline materials are used for liming peat soils - ground limestone, slaked lime, dolomite flour, chalk, marl, cement dust, wood and peat ash, etc.
Remember!!! Lime is not recommended to be applied to the soil together with phosphate fertilizers and ammonia forms of nitrogen fertilizers.
The introduction of mineral additives
An important element in improving the physical properties of peaty soils is their enrichment with minerals - sand and clay, which increase the thermal conductivity of the soil, accelerate its thawing and increase warming. At the same time, if they have an acidic reaction, you will have to make an additional dose of lime to neutralize their acidity.
At the same time, clay must be applied only in dry powder form, so that it mixes better with peat soil. The introduction of clay into peat soil in the form of large lumps gives an insignificant result.
The lower the degree of decomposition of peat, the greater the need for mineral additives. On heavily decomposed peat bogs, 2-3 buckets of sand and 1.5 buckets of powdered clay per 1 sq.m should be applied, and on weakly decomposed peat bogs, these doses should be increased by a quarter.
Application of organic and mineral fertilizers
Manure, peat-dung or peat-fecal composts, bird droppings, humus and other biologically active organic fertilizers are applied in an amount of up to 0.5-1 bucket per 1 sq. meter for shallow digging to quickly activate microbiological processes in peat soil, contributing to the decomposition of organic matter in it.
To create conditions favorable for plant growth, mineral fertilizers must also be applied to peat soils: for the main tillage - 1 tbsp. spoon of double granular superphosphate and 2.5 tbsp. spoons of potash fertilizers per 1 sq.m of area, and in the spring additionally - 1 teaspoon of urea.
Most peat soils have a low content of copper, and it is in a form that is difficult for plants to access. Therefore, the introduction of fertilizers containing copper into peat soil, especially on acidic peat soils, has a significant effect. If necessary, fertilizers containing other trace elements, primarily molybdenum and boron, must also be applied to peat soils.
Then peat soil, along with mineral soil poured on top, manure, organic and mineral fertilizers and lime must be carefully dug up to a depth of no more than 12-15 cm, and then slightly compacted. This is best done in late summer or early autumn when the soil has dried considerably.
If it is not possible to cultivate your entire site at once, then master it in parts, but by applying all the above-mentioned amount of mineral additives and organic fertilizers to them at once, or by first filling the planting pits with loose, fertile soil, and in subsequent years, carrying out work on cultivating the soil in row spacing. But this is already the worst option, because it is better to do all this at once.
Remember! On already developed peat soils, a gradual decrease in the thickness of the peat layer occurs due to its compaction and mineralization of organic matter. This happens especially quickly in areas where the same vegetables are grown for a long time without observing crop rotation, requiring frequent loosening of the soil.
Therefore, cultivated peat soil in gardens, and especially in garden plots, needs annual additional application of organic fertilizers. If this is not done, then every year a gradual irreversible destruction of peat (its mineralization) will occur on your site, and in 15-20 years the soil on your site will no longer be fertile peat, but infertile sod-podzolic. At the same time, its physical properties will greatly change for the worse.
To prevent this from happening, among other things, as mentioned above, a well-thought-out crop rotation system, saturated with perennial herbs, must constantly operate on your site.
The advantages of peat must also be able to use
Peat is one of the most popular organic fertilizers in the Urals, especially among beginner gardeners. They try to acquire it as much as possible and immediately apply it to the soil. But often there is little sense from such an introduction, since in peat, as you already know, only nitrogen is in abundance, but even in low-lying, well-decomposed peat, it is often in a state inaccessible to plants.
In the first years after the application, such peat only increases the absorption capacity of the soil and improves its air regime. Therefore, we must remember that if the soil in the garden is well cultivated, loose and fertile, then it is practically useless to introduce such unprepared peat into it.
Another thing is if there is little organic matter in the soil, especially if it is heavy clay soil. In this case, with the help of peat, it is possible to significantly improve the physical properties and structure of clay soil, make it more loose, water and moisture permeable, and in sandy soil, on the contrary, significantly increase its moisture capacity. In addition, peat is usually relatively cheap. But all this must be done skillfully.
As you already know, peat is different - lowland and highland. This is something you need to be aware of when buying it. In addition, both of these peat have a completely different color. Lowland peat can be used for soil application without composting after aeration, but this is not the best option, since the conversion of the nitrogen contained in it into a form convenient for plants will be slow.
Some gardeners sometimes from such fresh lowland peat with the addition of garden soil to it arrange bulk beds for growing cucumbers and zucchini, planting seedlings in holes completely filled with good humus.
When the roots of plants grow beyond the boundaries of such a hole, the low-lying peat will already sufficiently lose its negative qualities. When arranging such beds, wood ash is added to peat, 2 cups per bucket of peat and ordinary garden soil.
But, of course, it is much more useful to cover a pile of low-lying peat with a film and hold it for 3-4 months, occasionally pouring water, diluted slurry or herbal infusions. During this time, the peat will “ripen”, and it will already be a “really” useful peat.
And acidic high-moor peat in its pure form cannot be introduced into the soil at all. It needs serious composting. Composting high-moor peat with manure converts a significant part of the inaccessible nitrogenous compounds of peat into a form more accessible to plants. These processes occur much faster if the compost is maintained at a fairly high temperature.
It is not difficult to prepare such peat-manure compost in the garden. A layer of peat 25-30 cm thick is laid at the base of the stack. Then layers of manure and peat are alternated until the stack reaches a height of 1.2-1.3 meters. Then pour 1-2 buckets into the middle of the stack hot water, and cover the top of the pile with a layer of peat 15-30 cm thick. For one weight part of the manure of high-moor peat, they take 2 times more.
When laying acidic high-moor peat and manure in such a pile for composting, it is very useful to add superphosphate at the rate of 2-3 kg per 1 ton of composted material and various lime fertilizers, depending on the acidity of the peat.
They shovel such a pile of compost every 1.5-2 months. Properly prepared peat-dung compost in its effect on the yield of horticultural and horticultural crops is not inferior to ordinary manure, and often surpasses it. Now this is the real use of peat.
For the preparation of peat-liquid compost, any type of peat (primarily riding) and slurry are used. Peat is placed in two adjacent shafts in such a way that a recess is formed between them, with the thickness of the lower layer in the recess not less than 35-40 cm. Slurry is poured into this recess at the rate of 0.5 tons of this slurry per 1 ton of peat. You can also add superphosphate here at 2-3 kg per ton of peat. After the slurry has soaked all the peat, the mixture is raked into a pile without compaction and covered with a film.
The temperature of the compost in such a stack with loose laying quickly rises to 50-55 degrees. Peat actively absorbs ammonia and reduces the loss of nitrogen from peat compost during storage. And slurry contributes to a more rapid transfer of nitrogenous compounds of peat into a form more accessible to plants. During spring-summer preparation, such peat-liquid composts ripen within 3-3.5 months.
But if there is not enough slurry (and this is mostly the case), then it is poured into the compost heap only in order to “infect” the high-moor peat with bacteria. Then lime materials must be added to such a pile - for 1 ton of high-moor peat, 20-30 kg of lime or 30-40 kg of wood ash. But such compost will mature only after 1.5-2 years and, of course, will contain fewer nutrients than peat-dung compost. But it's also very good. organic fertilizer.
It is rational to use high-moor peat in the garden and for the preparation of peat-fecal composts. This is a very strong and fast-acting fertilizer, containing almost twice as much nitrogen as manure. They are prepared in almost the same way as peat-liquid composts.
To do this, a layer of peat 40-50 cm thick is placed under a canopy, a recess is made in it, where feces are poured. Then they are covered with a layer of peat chips with a layer of 15-20 cm thick and covered with a film. It is important that the process of composting feces in a pile proceed at a temperature of 55-60 degrees, which is favorable for the neutralization of pathogenic microflora.
If necessary, new layers of peat and feces are added to this pile. But in this case, the complete disinfection of the compost will take place slowly, so such compost can be used no earlier than a year after the last feces laying.
And it is desirable not to put such peat-fecal composts on a vegetable or strawberry garden, but to use it only in an orchard.

V.G. saffron

Decayed remains of flora and fauna have long been used in agriculture. Gardeners use peat as a fertilizer, knowing about the values ​​and characteristics of this mineral.

How is peat formed?

In marshy places, a lot of vegetation and living organisms die, after death they form a compressed biomass. The further process takes place in conditions of high humidity and lack of air.

Peat extraction technology

Occurring on the surface, it is easily mined. They do this in two ways:

• milling;
• lump or excavation method.

Milling

This method involves layer-by-layer extraction of peat, in short cycles. That is, with the help of milling drums, the top layer is milled with a depth of 6-20 mm. As a result, a crumb of peat is formed, the particle size of which is 15-25 mm. After milling, the layer is constantly turned over in order to dry.

When it dries, they begin to roll it, stack it. Then everything is repeated, the number of repetitions reaches 10-50 times.

This mining method has been used since the 1930s. The advantages of this method are that it is fully mechanized, that is, the cost of the material obtained is low. Milled peat is used in production, power plants. And in agriculture, 15-25% of the extracted minerals. The milling method is intensive drying and requires good weather conditions. In addition, it is more in demand, since the cost of human resources is minimal, and production is in large quantities.

Lump

Mined with excavators. The development is carried out to a depth of 400-800 cm. First, peat is mined with bucket equipment, then bricks are formed from it. They are laid out in the fields to dry. They are then stacked and hauled away. Based on the place of extraction and other development costs, the cost of the mineral is determined. The weight of one piece varies from 500 to 1000 g. This mining method is no more than 90 years old.

transitional peat

Everyone gets it possible ways, it all depends on where it lies and which method is more profitable. Most often, this species is used for agriculture in order to increase soil fertility.

Peat as fertilizer: pros and cons

When purchasing peat, young and inexperienced summer residents add it in unlimited quantities to the beds with plantings. Is it right and is it bad for cultivated plants only a few think. Peat consists of 40-60% of humus, but in its pure form it is very harmful for the garden. Plus, many gardeners consider a large percentage of nitrogen content, about 25 kg per 1 ton.

But few people know that this nitrogen is not absorbed by plants, as it is poorly absorbed.

It is better not to fertilize the garden with clean peat, it is necessary to mix it with others. The advantage of adding peat to the soil is that it increases the air permeability of the soil, making it more airy and loose. It is easier for plants to grow in such a land, but this is not enough for the full development of the root system, green mass and fruits.

Horse peat is suitable for those plants that feel great in acidic soil. In this case, it is added during transplantation and later they mulch the soil around the plants.

Comparison

You can understand the value of this mineral in comparison with organic fertilizers:

• chernozem;
• chicken manure.

Manure and manure

The main difference is acidity. Peat wins here, so it is used for depleted land. But in most cases, humus is used, since it contains more useful substances necessary for plant growth.

Chernozem

Chernozem contains a large amount of humus, but there are also more pathogenic bacteria and viruses in it. Therefore, the summer resident has to choose independently based on what the soil lacks. If you make peat, it must be diluted with sand and perlite and humus.

chicken manure

Chicken manure wins in that it is more valuable in terms of the composition of nutrients. Some summer residents prefer to use litter.

What is peat for?

A novice gardener wonders about the role of peat fertilizer for the site. The advantage of its use is that it contains a large amount of humic and amino acids, they contribute to the rapid growth of plants.

Peat is used for the preparation of fertile soil, for planting seedlings, indoor plants.

The main purpose of using peat in agriculture is to increase soil fertility.

Advantages of using minerals on the site:

• improvement of soil structure;
• increase in productivity;
• increase in moisture permeability;
• improved breathability.

How useful is fertilizer for personal plot, the summer resident will appreciate after its application. But you should carefully study the composition of the soil, and then apply top dressing.

Peat properties

There are many properties due to which it is widely used in agriculture, medicine, cosmetology and many other industries. The summer resident is interested in the answer to the question of what properties peat has that are useful for a personal plot or cottage:

1. Combined with others organic matter capable of nourishing and enriching the soil.
2. Makes the soil moisture and breathable.
3. Increases soil acidity.
4. Eliminates the soil from pathogenic microflora.
5. Can lower nitrate levels.
6. Weakens the impact of pesticides.

The properties of peat differ depending on what type it belongs to. No need to make a mineral on fertile soils. In this case, its properties are neutral.

Composition of peat

The composition includes plant residues that have not completely decomposed. Their decay products and mineral particles. Under natural conditions, it contains 86-95% water. Botanical composition:

• remnants of wood;
• tree bark and roots;
• various plant remains;
• hypnum and sphagnum moss.

The chemical composition is different, it depends on the type, botanical composition and degree of decomposition. That is, the percentage of micro- and macroelements in its composition depends on what type of peat is being studied, and whose plant residues are based on it.

Acidity of peat

It directly depends on how much calcium is in its composition. Due to the high degree of acidity, horseback is practically not used when planting; it is suitable for mulching. Since its pH is 3-5. Summer residents prefer to use lowland peat, as its acidity is 5-8. All particles in its composition are well decomposed and are suitable for feeding any crop.

According to the degree of acidity, the following classification is determined:

1. Strongly acidic, their ash content is 1.5-3%, lime content is 0.15-0.6%, pH is 2.5-4.
2. Medium acid, ash content 3-6%, lime content 1%, pH 3.5-4.5.
3. Slightly acidic, ash content 5-12%, lime more than 1%, pH 4.5-5.5.
4. Neutral, high ash content, neutral pH above 7%.

It is worth remembering that when it comes to composition, it will not be possible to say unequivocally about all types. Therefore, general characteristics are given.

Degree of decomposition

The presence of humus in it depends on how decomposed the peat is. That is, than more degree decomposition, the higher the percentage of structureless particles. This characteristic is the main one in describing the qualities and useful properties.

This indicator is determined as a percentage, “by eye” or under a microscope. In the first case, only fresh peat is taken, which has its own natural moisture content. Signs by which the degree of decomposition is determined:

• plastic;
• quantity and preservation of plant fragments;
• the amount and color of the squeezed water.

The decomposition is divided into 3 groups:

• 30% - strongly decomposed. It is pressed through the fingers, separate, large fragments of plant residues remain in the hands. After squeezing water, which is either very little or not at all, remains plastic. The water is dark Brown.
• 20% - moderately decomposed. It is difficult to push through the fingers, a lot of plant remains remain in the hands. Water that is squeezed out is light brown or brown in color. Pressed peat springs weakly.
• Less than 20% - slightly decomposed. Impossible to push through fingers. Plant remains are easily visible. Water is squeezed out easily, its color is yellowish or colorless. Pressed peat is springy and rough on the surface.

More detailed information is provided by the macroscopic method proposed by P.D. Varlygin.

In the field, when it is not possible to conduct laboratory tests, the smear method is used. The disadvantage of the method for determining the degree of decomposition is hardly visible traces of slightly decomposed soil. And the advantage is the fast determination of results.

Peat types

According to the research of the Institute for the European part Soviet Union there are 38 species. But all these species are combined into 3 types, which are subdivided based on the properties of peat and the nature of the waters that feed the swamps.

1. Lowland.
2. Horse.
3. Transition.

lowland peat

It feeds on groundwater. Its pH is neutral or slightly acidic. In total, it contains 70% of organic residues, in addition, it contains a large amount of minerals.

Often, lowland peat is used to improve the soil composition of the soil, which has been used for a long time without any fertilizer.

horse peat

Of all types, the most infertile, therefore it is only suitable for mulching or plants that require high soil acidity for growth and development.

transitional peat

The middle formation between the lowland and high-moor peat, that is, the layer is transitional. With fewer trace elements, and low acidity of the soil. The plant remains that make up this species are almost constant, differing slightly, depending on the type of peat deposits.

Neutralized peat

Mounted subspecies. It is used for the preparation of substrates, for this they take raw materials of a low degree of decomposition. In this case, limestone flour is used to neutralize acidity.

With its use, greenhouse soil is made, or soil for plants grown in pots. For open ground used for planting trees and shrubs.

Use of peat

The scope of its application in agriculture is very extensive. The mineral is used in beds, in greenhouses, in the garden and when growing flowers.

For the garden

Pure peat is not used to fertilize beds. Basically it is mixed with humus and other organic substances. And make it wet 50-60%. Otherwise, it will already be mulching.

Peat compost is a common occurrence on summer cottages. In addition, summer residents call this method of application the most effective.

For greenhouse

The ability of a mineral to absorb moisture and at the same time retain it is indispensable in the arrangement of a greenhouse. With the help of these properties, it maintains the optimal temperature regime of the soil in the greenhouse for a long time. Concurrently, the mineral is an antiseptic. Therefore, in greenhouses, peat is filled by 50-90%.

For garden

For use in the garden, preliminary preparation of the mineral is required. Within 2 weeks it is recommended to keep it carefully fluffing. If possible, sift through a sieve.

When using peat in the garden, constant watering is required. Correct use will provide the roots of plants with useful substances and oxygen necessary for the active growth of plants.

For plants

Peat is used for many types of crops. Apply as a fertilizer in spring or autumn for digging. This helps to improve the composition of the soil and increase the nutrients that the plant takes for proper development and growth.

For flowers

Fans of growing flowers, garden and indoor, also note the positive effect of peat on plants. Using a mineral as a fertilizer helps plants recover faster after transplanting.

Peonies respond especially well. They grow faster, bloom better and have a very strong smell. Use it as mulch and top dressing. In the second case, it is necessary to combine with mineral fertilizers.

Application in winter

IN winter period the mineral is used for compost. During the winter, it overheats and turns into the most nutritious fertilizer. Its introduction in winter causes early snow melting. Therefore, the ground starts to warm up earlier.

Fertilization of individual crops

The mineral is used for some crops in different ways, it is important to know how to properly fertilize so as not to harm either the plant or the soil.

Potato

Growing potatoes is a labor intensive process. The summer resident, in order to get a crop, makes fertile soil in the garden, adding sand and clay. But by themselves, these components do not perform the necessary function, so peat is added to them. This soil composition is the most suitable for the culture.

Strawberry

Applying fertilizer on strawberry beds, gardeners note the precocity of the berry, the harvest becomes richer, the taste of strawberries is richer. They are applied in spring or autumn, mixed with sawdust and dried well. Add it to the aisle of 30 kg per 1 m 2. Or directly to each hole.

Tomatoes

For this crop, peat is used as a foliar and root top dressing once every 2 weeks. Or they make 4 kg per 1 m 2, scattering evenly over the garden.

For the best effect, the mineral is added when planting seeds.

cucumbers

Thanks to the introduction of peat into the soil, a rich crop crop is obtained. It is important to observe the dosage and correctly lime or reduce the acidity of the soil. Compliance with proportions will help to get the maximum possible yield from cucumber bushes.

Cabbage

For this culture, which is very picky about acidity, peat is used by lowering the pH. Then the effect of its application will be noticeable almost immediately.

Soil fertilization with peat

To improve soil fertility, summer residents use this mineral. But many do not even think about the fact that it brings harm. Therefore, before fertilizing the soil, it is necessary to determine what exactly the soil needs.

When introducing it into fertile land, you should not expect improvements, as there will be no result. But if the soil is severely depleted, then it raises its fertility.

Peat preparation

Before use, it is necessary to properly prepare the mineral. To do this, you need to fulfill simple requirements:

1. Ventilate well before use. To volatilize the toxic substances that are in its composition.
2. Humidity of the used raw materials is not less than 50%.
3. The impact on the plant is not immediate, sometimes they are noticeable, only after 2-3 years.
4. Regardless of the season, fertilization is always appropriate.
5. The best way to use it is compost.

When to deposit

There are no specific dates, it is brought in at any time, in spring and autumn for plowing. During the period of plant growth, aisle and under the roots.

Dosage

There are no regulations on the use of minerals. They only note the moment that it is necessary to make it for several years in a row, gradually bringing the soil to the desired degree of fertility.

Mulching with peat

This process also requires the implementation of the rules, this leads to a positive result from the work done. Mulch during the growing season or before winter. IN summer period for this, peat is used, which is applied with a layer of 1 to 2 cm. In the spring, protecting plantings, up to 5 cm, in winter the layer is not limited.

Soil top dressing

To enrich the fertile layer of the earth, peat mixed with any organic additives is used. Since he alone does not provide proper enrichment with minerals. Mineral, in its pure form, is used only for mulching.

They use high-moor peat for mulch, lowland and transitional, to enrich the soil.

Organization of peat compost

Pure fertilizer provides few nutrients to the soil. Therefore, summer residents recommend making compost. It requires leaves, food scraps, cut weeds, and other plant debris. Compost is prepared within 1-1.5 years. The degree of readiness is determined visually. The entire mass should be homogeneous and loose.

Ways

There are 2 ways to organize compost, which of them is preferred by the summer resident himself.

Spot composting

A layer of peat 50-60 cm is laid out at the chosen place. Then manure 70-80 cm is laid out in a continuous layer, or in heaps. from all sides. This method is preferred in winter.

Layered

Peat is distributed over a width of 4-5 m, the length of the site, if possible, the layer thickness is 50 cm, then a layer of manure is laid, then peat again, and so on several times, the height of the finished compost heap is 2 m. The last layer is necessarily peat.

Peat based fertilizer

Fertilizer manufacturers create plant nutrition. They make it for those who cannot make their own compost heap. They are made in the form of granules that are added directly to the wells. And liquid fertilizer, which is absorbed much better. They are watered plants and used as a growth stimulant for seeds.

Peat oxidate

Economical plant nutrition, which is much cheaper than imported analogues. Helps plants accumulate nutrients, improves soil structure, prevents toxins from entering the plant.

It contains amino acids, monosaccharides, proteins, humic acids, minerals and fulvic acids. Be sure to dilute with water when using.

Extract from peat

For manufacturing, a low-lying view is used, with the help of electro-hydraulic processing, an extract is obtained. The fertilizer is very easy to use. Contains many useful substances. Recommended for areas where there is no need to fertilize the soil.

Alternative to peat fertilizers

If it is not possible to purchase a mineral, it is replaced with organic matter similar in composition of nutrients. These include:

• manure;
• humus;
• humus;
• bird droppings;
• feces;
• sawdust, tree bark;
• green manure;
• compost pits.

The choice of an alternative is up to the vegetable grower.

Manure

The best substitute for peat. Its composition is rich in minerals that plants need for growth and development. All of them are in an easily digestible form.

The only negative for the site is that fresh manure cannot be used.

Humus

Rich in nutrients that increase the overall fertility of the soil. It is introduced before digging or directly into the wells.

Humus

It is used as an alternative to peat in most cases, as it is rich in nutrients that enrich the soil.

bird droppings

Il

Silt rich in humus, potassium and nitrogen is used in areas to increase soil fertility.

Feces

They are not used in their pure form; special preparation of fertilizer with their use is required. Made from a compost heap.

sawdust, tree bark

Cheap and affordable organic fertilizer, which becomes an excellent substitute for minerals. Contribute to the plots only rotted. Mixed with other dressings and layered with the ground.

Compost is prepared from the bark, mixed with mineral supplements and moistened. Fertilizer will be ready within 6 months.

siderates

Since autumn, the site is sown with perennial or annual crops, plowed up in the spring. Useful substances pass into the soil, enriching the soil.

Compost pits

Harmless organic fertilizer, which significantly increases soil fertility. The disadvantage of top dressing is that it is being prepared from 1 to 2 years. But do not forget that it is in this form that minerals are better absorbed by plants.

Peat as a fertilizer is indispensable on the site. But do not make it thoughtlessly, everything is good in moderation.

Exist different types the soils on which horticultural societies are found. Somewhere clay prevails, somewhere peat. For example, my site is located on peat bogs. For some reason, some gardeners have a negative attitude towards such soil. Although all gardeners are trying to buy peat and fertilize their beds with it. This soil has its pros and cons.

Disadvantages of peat soil

The disadvantages of such soil are the following.

It is often necessary to water the sown seeds until the seeds germinate, since the top layer of soil (about ten centimeters) dries out very quickly, and moisture is needed for seed germination. Moisture of morning dew is not enough for all types of seeds. Small plants, such as dill, are especially affected. For some plants, it is necessary to add sand to the beds (to retain moisture). Not all types of fruit trees grow on such soil.

Of course, on peat lands, you need to burn fires with caution. You will extinguish the fire from above, but the lower layer of peat may ignite from it, and you will not immediately detect it. It is better to fill the site with gravel for this. Or you can do it, as it is done on my site - they put a brazier on a concrete slab. It can cook and burn garbage.

To remove excess moisture, drainage ditches run along the perimeter of our site, thirty centimeters deep. This is enough to remove excess moisture during rains.

Benefits of peat soil

Benefits include the following.

Peat land is very loose, light, it is a pleasure to work in such land. You can dig any hole with your hands, spud plants. No need to loosen the beds, just weed them. Before weeding, it is not necessary to moisten the soil, all weeds are pulled out with ease. Almost all plants grow by leaps and bounds. You always have soil at hand for sowing seedlings. After seed germination, when the roots of plants sprout the upper dry layer and fall into the lower layer, you can rarely water the beds. Because inside the peat land is wet.

A hole was dug in my area: three by three meters, about two meters deep, there is always groundwater in it, with which I water my plants. All summer they grow beautifully different kinds leaf lettuce: lettuce, arugula, parsley, celery, mustard, watercress. I always collect good harvest onion, carrots, beets, cucumbers, bell peppers, pumpkins, zucchini, cabbage, radishes, potatoes and other vegetable crops.

We added sand to the strawberry beds. Lush bushes grew with a lot of berries, as a result they got an excellent harvest. All these plants grow very well in such soil. Cuttings of various plants take root well due to the lightness of such soil.

Many types of flowers and flowers grow very well on peat soil. ornamental shrubs. There are many flowers in my yard. These are dahlias, gladioli, asters, petunias, phloxes, irises, lilies, primroses, lavaterra, septembers, hostas, tulips, daffodils, decorative sunflowers, crocuses, various types of rosaries. And they all grow and grow beautifully without frequent watering and loosening. Of course, provided that the summer is not very dry. I can say that in a dry summer it is often necessary to water any soil. Of the ornamental shrubs that grow well in my area, I can name the following - barberry, heather, juniper, thuja. Currants, honeysuckle, gooseberries, raspberries also grow well. And they all bear great fruit.

I do not use any fertilizers on my site, because I am opposed to any plant growth stimulants. My opinion - that will grow, will grow. I collect a good harvest from my site, and I have it environmentally friendly.

From my practical experience, I can say that one should not be afraid to acquire plots on peat lands. And if now I had a choice - on what basis to buy garden plot, I would choose peat land. The advantages of such a soil are much greater than the disadvantages.