How to choose apple tree seedlings in spring. How to choose a good apple tree seedling How to choose the right apple tree seedlings

Imported apples, calibrated in size, gleam with a paraffin gloss on us, which often lie for half a year or more in their hardly edible spacesuit. We eat them ourselves, and out of habit we buy them for our children, because "Apples are healthy!"...

And at the same time, in many areas it became fashionable for us NOT to plant anything but a lawn and conifers ... Allow me, people! But how is it - your garden is okay, not a garden, but a plot) and without an apple tree? ..

However, since you are reading this, it means that you still decided to plant an apple tree. For which let me shake your hand!

So, let's start landing (buckle up!).

The apple tree is our northern storehouse of vitamins and usefulness. And even if times have changed and it has become unfashionable to plant tall trees on a seed rootstock, many new varieties and wonderful undersized rootstocks have appeared.

Which apple tree to choose - dwarf or tall? ..

Hard, oh hard is the agony of choice when the market is oversaturated with seedlings. Want columns - please. If you don’t want a column, here are “big” apple trees on a seed stock. And what kind of trees to plant - depends, mostly, from your wishes.

Mostly Because there are some restrictions. For tall apple trees, for example, it is necessary that the groundwater level on the site be no higher than 2 meters (on light sandy soils- can be planted with a groundwater level of 1-1.5 meters, using some little tricks).

And for dwarf apple trees, on the contrary, it must be borne in mind that the roots lie shallow, and the crop is large. Therefore, if you have an arid region, then watering (or other agricultural practices that increase the amount of moisture in the soil) will be necessary.

Advantages of tall apple trees.

They are large and beautiful, in summer it is pleasant to sit under such an apple tree in the shade. And between two large trees - you can hang a hammock!
A large harvest, moreover, if skeletal branches of different varieties are grafted, then there will be a large and varied harvest.
A large apple tree lives longer and bears fruit.
Since the roots of a large apple tree penetrate to great depths, it is not necessary to water it.
Such a tree, in principle, is more resistant to all kinds of weather vagaries. It, unlike dwarf ones, does not need to be tied up and afraid that the branches with the crop will break from the first strong wind.

Advantages of undersized apple trees.

They take up little space! In a small area, this is often vital.
They give little shade! In old, shady areas, people sometimes forget what “full light” is when the sun illuminates a plant from sunrise to sunset. The difference in plant development is huge. Therefore, it is important to keep our garden as sunny as possible if we want to grow vegetables, fruits or flowers there. As for the lawn, on the contrary, it often succeeds better in partial shade.
They start bearing early. In the third year, there will already be a dozen apples on a dwarf apple tree, and in the fourth year, you can get a couple of buckets of selected, large fruits!
Yes, yes, the fruits on dwarf apple trees are larger. Or maybe even tastier, although this is a moot point.
Having made a small planting hill, an apple tree on a dwarf rootstock can be planted in the most damp area, because its roots penetrate only half a meter deep.
On dwarf apple trees, it is much easier to cope with pests and diseases - you can always notice and remove it in time, while we may not even guess what is happening on top of a large apple tree.

How to choose varieties of apple trees for planting?

This question is very complex and individual. It’s good if you have the opportunity to walk around the market in the fall and taste apples by variety. But most of the townspeople are unfortunately deprived of this opportunity - they often sell unnamed apples in the markets, or even the same imported ones.

Choosing varieties according to descriptions on the Internet is also a dubious occupation, everyone has different tastes. So it remains to go by the method of scientific poke.

I think it would be superfluous to repeat “do not buy seedlings in dubious places, from roadside vendors and so on” ... Somehow I can hardly imagine a person who will buy a tree “do not understand what variety, do not understand from whom”. After all, there is enough seedlings of good quality apple trees in nurseries and large retail outlets.

It is important that the variety is released in your area, it is better to be sure about this before buying. Otherwise, you can get either a variety that freezes in winter, or one that does not have enough summer to ripen apples.

Well, one of the most important qualities of the variety is resistance to diseases, mainly to scab. Because, as you know, to plant apple trees and then complain that they may be tasty, but they are all covered with scab, which is why they are clumsy and unattractive - why is this needed. Plant varieties that are resistant!

Open root? Closed root? What's the difference!

Indeed, the main thing is that the seedling is strong and healthy, and only then you can think whether it is good that it has an open (closed) root system or not.

Potted seedlings - what's the catch?

It would seem that this is nonsense, because an apple tree in a pot (or a plastic glass) is much better - you can buy it even in spring, even in summer, and plant it right away. But not everything is so rosy with these pots.

Firstly, an apple tree just dug up in the field is often shoved into a pot, and there is no earthen clod pierced by thin roots. The first time you try to pull a seedling out of a pot or glass, all the earth falls off, and you can enjoy the view of the root system of your seedling.

Fortunately, if so, otherwise it can be worse - inside a plastic bag, there is a nylon mesh, large-mesh. At first glance, there is no need to remove such a grid - after all, it does not interfere with the growth of roots. But I strongly recommend removing the mesh, even if the whole earth crumbles (as often happens). Because many sellers stuff the roots into the net at random - crumpled, bent up, all in one direction ... And if the roots are not straightened, then instead of a fruitful tree you will have sheer torment and tediousness. The tree does not seem to die, and does not grow - it sits still and complains that its head hurts. More like a leg.

The second possible bad option for apple tree seedlings in a pot is when the pot is too small, and the apple tree has been languishing in it for several months. There used to be such poor fellows in stores, they have already faded in this pot, and an apple hangs on them ... What is the root system like there, in such a volume? .. Moreover, the store employees diligently fill this seedling with water ... Because in the evening it thoroughly dries up (evaporation of something hoo). And so every day - in the evening it dried up, withered, in the morning - it was poured and poured.

All this does not mean at all that potted seedlings cannot be taken. It is very possible, but it is best to do this in early spring, before bud break, in extreme cases - before flowering. Of course, we are talking about trees that arrived on sale for the first year. And it happens that an apple tree in a pot in a store or nursery has been recycled for a whole season, no one bought it, but take it and survive the winter .. and then they sell it a second time.

You can also plant trees with apples and flowers, at your own peril and risk. But be sure to remove apples and flowers - not before the harvest of the tree in this difficult first year. No matter how much you want to taste an apple, it is better to postpone the tasting until next year - let the apple tree grow roots.

Now about seedlings with an open root (literally a couple of pages).

In general, it's easier with them. Because you can see the root, not the cat in the bag (pot). If the tree is taken on time (in early spring - before bud break, or in autumn, after leaf fall), then there will be no special problems with it. Taking seedlings with open roots with blossoming buds is a disastrous business.

Well, since the roots are visible to us, let's look at them carefully. In dwarf apple trees, we will see a washcloth of numerous and rather thin roots sticking out horizontally in all directions. And tall apple trees should have powerful 1-2-3 roots, going almost vertically down. The roots, if picked with a fingernail, should be white. Rotten and withered - we do not need. Rod roots roughly chopped off with a shovel right near the ground are also bad.

The appearance of the seedling - and who do we need?

Let's talk about the aerial part of the seedling. Due to inexperience, it is easy to do stupid things. Firstly, it’s worth buying either an annual twig - a vertical stick from a meter to more than two meters tall, with virtually no branches. Or a two-year-old, on which the crown rudiments are formed - 2-3 skeletal branches for tall apple trees, or 3-4-5 skeletal branches - for dwarf ones.

That is, if you happily grabbed a lush apple tree, in which 10 branches depart from the trunk in the second year, then there is nothing good here, it will be a thickened seedling and you still have to cut off half of the branches. And the tree grew them, spent strength ...

The second thing you look at is the trunk itself. A stem is a part from the bottom of the trunk, near the ground, to the first fork. This part should not be too low, not too high. Think for yourself where (at what height) you want to see the first branch. The trunk should be straight, and the top should not split, split, etc. That is, the central conductor - the highest branch, which goes up as a continuation of the stem, should be alone, without competitors sticking out nearby.

In general, all this, of course, is perfectly cut off and formed, so if you bought a crooked seedling that you liked, and let it live in health, it rejoices and makes you happy. But if there is a choice - think immediately for the future, imagine a tree in a year or two ... How these branches will grow, where and why.

How to plant an apple tree?

Here is another question of questions. How to plant it? It is clear that into the ground, but there are probably some secrets? Avon, one neighbor's apples are always large and beautiful, the other's apples are crooked and small. I suppose the first planted correctly, but the second did not?

It may be so, but there are no special tricks and difficulties with landing. If, of course, you have never planted a tree before, then it will be all new, and it will seem difficult to someone. And so - there is nothing special.

The first one is a hole. (Is there a sapling, go ahead, is it worth it, waiting? ..)

Where did all these advices come from - to dig meter-long holes? .. I can’t say who came up with the idea that it is necessary to dig a hole meter by meter by meter under the apple tree. Maybe this sage was just bored, or maybe he liked to dig.

That is, from the fact that you make such a hole, no trouble will happen. But the difference in the growth of a tree between a 50x50x50 pit (eight times less) and a meter per meter, WITH PROPER CARE, you will not notice.

What is traditionally advised to pour into a meter-long hole? Humus, organic and mineral fertilizers. But after all, everything that will be buried to a depth of a meter (organic matter, humus) falls into anaerobic conditions, where, decomposing, it remains in a form indigestible for plants.

As for the much-loved superphosphate, then, of course, you can pour it into the pit. But show me that apple tree that in an ordinary garden suffers from a lack of phosphorus? I haven't seen one yet, maybe I'm looking in the wrong place.

What else is usually advised to pour? Complex mineral (nitrogen-photfor-potassium). Why do we need all this at a meter depth? Well, maybe potassium will somehow be absorbed. Nitrogen - will go even deeper, with rains and in the first spring with melted snow it will not remain there. We have enough phosphorus in our soil...

So it turns out that digging a huge hole does not make much sense. There are exceptions - if the land is completely unsuitable for its structure. Well, that is, the land is such that nothing like trees grows there! If there is maple, oak, alder, ash in the area, then everything is fine with the soil, and there is no need to make a hernia and corns.

And what should be put in a pit 50x50?

Add ash to the nutrient soil, if any. Half a liter for such a hole is what you need. Unless, of course, you have alkaline soil. And then, when planting, cover almost the entire depth with ordinary black earth. If you want - add superphosphate.

But in the top layer (10 cm) you can already creatively put any organic or complex mineral fertilizers. We now have a wonderful choice - all sorts of "ideals", "biohumus" and "crystallons" filled the shelves of stores. Choose according to your taste, but on my own I can recommend the "Universal Ideal", but it is only in the spring. If you plant in the fall, and the autumn is warm, then the apple tree may still start growing, we don’t need it.

In general, when planting in the spring, you can put any fertilizer on top, it is better that all the main nutrients are there. And when planting in the fall, it’s better not to put anything at all, until the onset of stable cold weather. Then you can sprinkle on the snow with a complex mineral water, or in the spring - organic. When the snow melts, the mineral fertilizers dissolve well and penetrate exactly to the depth where they will be available to the roots.

Autumn planting of apple trees.

They say that it is better to plant an apple tree in the fall - after the leaf fall. At this time, the tree is busy actively growing its root system, and the aerial part is already sleeping in anticipation of spring. Therefore, our task is not to interfere with the tree. large quantity nutrients it is no longer required for the growth of roots, that is, just good black earth in the pit will be enough. Additional nitrogen (biohum, manure, humus, compost) should not be added, for the reason that the kidneys may wake up, which in turn is fraught with freezing of the seedling.

It is already too late to pour potassium and phosphorus “which helps the tree prepare for winter” - the tree has already prepared without you. So in general, just cover the seedling with earth, and you can sing a lullaby to it (although the roots will not sleep until the ground freezes). The only thing that should be done right away is to tie the seedling to the peg. On this autumn planting completed.

Spring planting.

I like to plant trees in the spring. Although this is not always good for apple trees with an open root, but for those that grew in a pot, spring planting is optimal.

We will immediately see how the tree grows, the rate of growth of the shoots, the color of the leaves, etc. If something is wrong - you can adjust the timely top dressing.

And if there are no tricks when planting (transshipping) a tree from a pot, then a plant with an open root will need some attention in the first month. Immediately after planting, water the seedling. Bucket of water on a tree. To get a complete mess. It is also good to pour water into the pit before you cover the roots with earth, mix the water with soil at the bottom of the pit, and spread the roots into the resulting mud mash and fill the pit almost to the top with soil. Then - pour another bucket of water, and when it leaves - add soil to the level.

Water the apple tree once a week, in a bucket, for the first 5-6 weeks. Well, unless the weather is damp and everything is already flooded, then you can not water it.

Planting depth.

It is important. If you plant a tree too deep, as it sometimes happens, then it will grow poorly and will hardly bear fruit, and then it will most likely die in a few years.

On grafted apple trees, the grafting site is clearly visible - in any case it should be ABOVE the ground.

If planting trees is a new activity for you, then carefully look where the root part of the seedling begins. Here comes the topmost root... And literally a centimeter above it you will see the transition of the above-ground part to the underground. The bark will have a different texture and hue. Here, the seedling cannot be buried deeper than this level! But vice versa, of course, planting a tree so that the roots stick out is also unacceptable.

We mulch and fertilize. Care in the first year.

Regardless of when we planted a tree - whether in spring or autumn, but we begin to “care” for it in the first spring.

Basically, care will consist of activities such as top dressing, mulching the trunk circle and crown formation. And of course - the search and reprisal against pests, where without them ...

Top dressing of an apple tree - a way to a harvest!

In order to achieve a harvest in the second year after planting (for dwarf ones, of course ... For tall ones - it’s good if in the fourth ...), you need to give the tree everything that it loves! In spring, it is primarily nitrogen. Nitrogen fertilizers are organic and mineral. Any will suit us.

Feeding options. mineral fertilizers.

Azofoska (nitroammophoska), a couple of tablespoons under the seedling. The most popular fertilizer contains nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in equal parts. We scatter around the tree early in the spring, ideally in the snow.

Carbamide (urea), potassium nitrate and everything else where there is nitrogen in an equal or greater proportion than other elements is also suitable.

If the snow has already thawed, but you still need to feed it, then the most The best way- apply fertilizer under the mulch layer. But we will describe this a little lower, under the heading "Mulching".

Next, we observe the growth of the tree. If the growth is growing, the leaves are green and cheerful, then everything is in order, and additional nitrogen is not needed. If the tree is in no hurry to grow, despite good watering, then at the end of May you can feed it with a liquid solution of nitrogen (urea), a tablespoon per bucket of water, for 1-2 trees.

Starting from July, nitrogen fertilizers should no longer be given. It is the turn of potassium and phosphorus. Sprinkle mineral fertilizer containing phosphorus and potassium, but without nitrogen, around the tree, in a quantity of about 1 tablespoon. Or even better. A glass or two in the trunk circle.

organic fertilizers.

Apple trees love organic, and fresh too (yes, yes, even fresh manure). Fresh, in addition to a specific (hee hee) smell, has another drawback - it can burn the trunk if placed close to the trunk. So you don't put manure right next to it, and that's all there is to it? . Otherwise, manure in the spring is a complete benefit, and you should not be afraid that the apple tree will begin to fatten or there are some other nitrogen distortions. Until mid-July, all the nitrogen will go away, and everything will be in order, just that the leaves will be large and green for a feast for the eyes.

How to apply manure? Yes, just put it in the trunk circle around the apple tree. But, as mentioned above, indent five centimeters from the trunk.

It is good as a mulch, and a fertilizer in itself ... And let's smoothly move on to mulching, because it is important!

Mulch your apple trees!

Especially in the first years of life, mulching apple trees is very useful. But since we have somehow not finished talking about organic fertilizers, let's continue here. So, the above was about mulching with manure.

Of course, you can mulch (and even better) with rotted manure, as well as compost, biohumus, chicken manure ... No, no, you don’t need to pour a thick layer of manure or biohumus. Put adequate the amount of organic matter that you have. And on top - cover it with a layer of mowed, slightly dried grass or straw, 5 centimeters thick.

Under hay-straw, ideal conditions will be created for the life of earthworms and other comrades, who will be happy to eat rotting grass and snack on manure, simultaneously loosening and fertilizing the soil to the required depth. Exactly the depth you need. It is in this layer of soil that the roots that feed our apple tree should be located. And that is why we have nothing to dig a meter-deep and wide hole for landing(I hope you have not forgotten that we talked about the pit at the beginning of this long article). By the way. Thank you for reading this far, not everyone was honored with this, but you could.

More on mulch. In general, they write about it everywhere now, but for some reason not everyone tries it. But you still try and make sure that the earth under a layer of mulch over the years becomes of excellent quality, it is light and fertile.

And of course, we must mention such a very important quality of mulch as curbing the growth of weeds in the near-stem circle of a young tree. Weeds significantly inhibit the growth rate of the seedling for the first few years, so you have to either put up with them or fight. And so we mulched - and please: no weeds for you, and fertility is a plus.

The pest will not pass! It won't fly or crawl (Optimistically).

The subtitle is, of course, overly optimistic. Because the pest - he does not sleep, but wants to eat. Who is of particular interest to us in the first years after planting?

Leaf-eating caterpillars - larvae of hawthorns, various moths.
Weevils (while there are no fruits - their larvae).
The indefatigable aphid and its associates are ants.

The host of these bezpredelschikov is great and terrible, but there is no point in being afraid, we must fight. Moreover, I prefer not napalm and potent poison, but a reasonable approach and manual gathering.

In fact, while the trees are small (and dwarf apple trees are always small), it is enough thoughtfully and slowly to walk around the tree once a week, examining its leaves. Spotted the hooligans? Put them in the toilet, and there you know what to do with them. Yes, exactly what to wet. Usually this is enough. But if you are overcome by an epidemic of pests, you should think about the ecological balance in your area. Perhaps you have everything under black fallow, all the weeds are weeded out and the main enemies of harmful insects have nowhere to live?

How to plant an apple tree in spring correctly

Grow beautiful orchard, giving an excellent harvest, and boasting delicious and large apples, every gardener dreams of. To do this, you need to know the nuances of choosing and preparing seedlings, as well as properly preparing the place before planting an apple tree in the spring.

How to choose and prepare apple tree seedlings

If you have decided on the apple variety you are interested in, it's time to go shopping for planting material. You should know what to look for when choosing.

Where to buy and how to choose seedlings

To do this, it is better to use the services of specialized stores or nurseries, since apple seedlings purchased at spontaneous markets could be stored incorrectly. There is also the possibility of acquiring a completely different variety.

When choosing a tree, you should pay attention to the following nuances:

a two or three year old seedling should have several skeletal branches and a branched root system;
good condition of the bark without damage;
The height of the seedling should be 1.5 m.

Preparing a seedling for planting

annual seedling does not yet have branches, so it must be prepared for planting and correctly form the future crown:

Cut off the top with a sharp knife or pruner, retreating a few buds (this will give the tree the opportunity to develop side branches);
Examine the buds: those that look up will grow at an acute angle in the future, competing with the main trunk, so they should be removed. Leave 5-6 good buds looking to the side and spaced evenly along the length of the seedling, skeletal branches will form from them.

Also ask the seller how tall the adult tree will be. The choice of a landing site in your area depends on this based on the cast shadow on other landings.

Soil preparation and planting apple trees in spring

Buy seedlings is not enough to get good harvest. It is necessary to choose the right time, prepare the soil and follow the planting technology.

When to plant apple trees in spring

Determining the time is easy. If the air temperature is consistently above zero, you can start working.

In the southern regions, landing begins in mid-April.
IN middle lane In Russia, the end of April is considered the most suitable time.
In the Urals and Siberia, it is recommended to plant apple trees no earlier than mid-May.

Planting an apple tree in spring

Before planting apple trees, it is necessary to prepare a hole in advance. This is best done in the fall, but it can also be done in the spring, 7-10 days before planting.

The following parameters for the landing pit should be observed:

for high varieties of apple trees (from 200 cm) - a diameter of 100-110 cm, and 70 cm in depth.
for medium (from 120 to 200 cm) - 100 and 60;
for undersized (no more than 120 cm) - 90 and 50, respectively.

The top layer of soil is more fertile than the bottom, so they must be separated when digging (spread out in different directions from the pit).

If the soil is clay, before planting an apple tree, it must be diluted with sand (in a ratio of 2: 1), and if it is sandy, then add humus and peat (2: 1: 1). The bottom requires special attention: loosen it with a shovel, and fill it with broken bricks or tiles, a walnut shell is ideal. Such a layer will be an excellent drainage for excess moisture and a barrier against washing out nutrients from the soil.

How to plant an apple tree in spring

The procedure for planting seedlings in spring differs from the autumn one in the composition of fertilizers. The pit must first be prepared and the seedlings properly cut.

The finished pit is covered with the top fertile layer of soil to a depth of 15-20 cm;
Prepare a mixture of fertilizers with the ground: 1 cup of superphosphate and 3 tbsp. potassium sulfate is mixed with the remaining soil from the top layer, and poured into the pit;
The rest is filled with fertile soil to the top with a small hill;
A wooden peg is placed in the center of the mound, and a seedling is placed next to it, spreading its roots evenly in a circle;
Next, the seedling is sprinkled with earth and rammed. It is necessary that the base of the tree (the junction of the trunk and the root system) be several cm above ground level, this will prevent the seedling from settling.

Planting an apple tree is carried out on the north side of the peg, which allows you to slightly protect the bark from sunburn.

How to plant an apple tree in spring video

Apple tree care after planting

A young tree needs good support. To do this, the seedling must be tied to a peg, which is driven into the ground to a depth of 15-20 centimeters. It should be tied with a cloth or soft rope, but in no case should this be done with wire or synthetic materials.

On the day of planting, it is necessary to carry out good watering: 30-40 liters of water will be needed per pit. The main thing is that the water ceases to freely go into the soil and begins to stagnate a little. The procedure is repeated a week later, adding nitrogen-containing mixtures (35-45 grams of ammonium nitrate or nitroammophoska).

How to plant a garden of fruit trees

If you plan to grow more than just apple trees in the garden, you should take care of the correct arrangement of trees, since not all crops coexist equally well in one area.

Planting a garden: choosing neighbors and location

Positive allelopathy (compatibility) have apple, pear and mountain ash. And crops such as apricot or cherry are best planted in another part of the garden. The heaviest tree is considered Walnut, which is why it is most often placed on the edge of the plot under the fence.

Cherry does not like the neighborhood.
An apricot, cherry plum or plum planted nearby is likely to die.
The apple tree gets along well with the plum, which cannot be said about the peach and pear.

The choice of a place for planting apple trees depends on the height of the future tree. Place seedlings of tall varieties on the north side suburban area, and undersized - on the south. This planting will provide uniform illumination of all trees, and they will not obscure each other. The distance between the planting pits should be at least 4 m so that the trees do not intertwine crowns and roots.

What can be planted under an apple tree in the garden

Most best option using a near-barrel circle is turfing. Thus, the soil will receive more oxygen and moisture. Nice appearance lawn will create an atmosphere of relaxation.

But if you have a small plot and a lot of trees, it is better not to waste precious meters and use them wisely. The apple tree has a not too dense crown, so the shade-tolerant plants under it will receive a sufficient amount of light.

If you want to create a fragrant flower bed in the near-stem circle, the answer to the question of what to plant under an apple tree is simple - flowers. It is best to sow the soil:

daisies and marigolds;
crocuses and primrose;
bells and balsam;
pansies.

When there is very little free space, a whole garden of parsley, dill, garlic and lettuce can be placed under the apple tree. On the south side of the tree, cucumbers, eggplant and zucchini will take root well. Since the root system of the apple tree is located close to the surface of the earth, it is recommended to organize a small bulk bed around the trunk so that the plants do not interfere with each other.

Outcome

Planting apple trees in the spring is proper preparation pits and the location of the seedling in it. Having coped with these simple tasks, you will grow a healthy and productive tree without any problems. Plant a beautiful garden in your area, sow the area under the trees with flowers or herbs so that it is not empty, and enjoy the aroma of flowers in spring and ripe fruits in autumn.

Planting an apple tree occurs a month before frost, in autumn, and early spring. In the first year after planting seedlings need to be watered frequently, and fertilizers are not applied yet.
The most suitable soils for apple trees are loamy. As a rule, compost, peat, coarse river sand are added to clay soil, since apple trees are harmed by a lack of air in the soil. If the soil is sandy, then it is recommended to add a little more peat, humus, clay soil, compost.
Apple trees are planted in spring and autumn. In spring - in April, as a rule, in the last days of the month, in autumn - from the twentieth of September to mid-October. Later on October 20, it is better to prepare apple trees for spring planting, dig in, and then plant them in the spring.

What kind of apple trees to plant?

In general, first of all, you need to decide on the following points:

age - 1 or 2 years old
rootstock – dwarf, semi-dwarf, or "normal" tree
ripening period - summer (July-August), autumn (September-October), winter (October) varieties

How to choose an apple tree?

When buying, pay attention to the following:
- 4-5 branches on the crown
- 7-8 cm from the root - grafting
- the tree has healthy bark
- 1.5 m height
- many roots, not 1 squiggle
- winter-hardy varieties

How to choose a pear?

Approximately the same as an apple tree, but also make sure that there are no thorns - with thorns it will be a "wild".
How to plant young trees?

In general, apple trees can be planted in autumn and spring. In spring - at the end of April (from the 20th), in autumn - from September 20 to October 15. After October 20, it is better to dig apple tree seedlings and plant them in spring.

The landing algorithm is something like this.

1) We dig holes - preferably a week before planting.
The distance between the pits for semi-dwarfs: 4 meters between apple trees, 3 meters between rows (for vigorous 5x5, medium crown - 4x4, dwarf - 3x2)
We dig holes up to a meter in diameter and up to 70 cm deep (actually, I got a width of 50 centimeters and the same depth)
We lay the top layer with humus in one direction, the bottom layer in the other.

2) We make a small mound at the bottom of the "fertile".
3) You can add 2-3 handfuls of bone meal.
4) We put the apple tree on a mound (and not in a hole, as I would do :)
5) We put two pegs nearby (you can get by with one, but always on the north side).
6) Sprinkle the “fertility” and tamp it with our hands so as not to damage the roots.
7) We fill the hole before vaccination, leaving 5-10 centimeters from it to the ground.
8) We water the apple tree (2 buckets of water).
9) We cut off the leaves (if it's autumn).
10) In autumn, you can also protect the trunks from hares - overlay the trunks with spruce paws or juniper.
11) We are waiting for spring to prune.

How to cover apple trees for the winter?

"...Apple trees in bloom - what a miracle!" They delighted you in the spring and all summer, now it's your turn to take care of the apple trees and prepare them for the winter, especially for young plantings. Every gardener probably thought about how to prepare apple trees for winter, and the most experienced already know exactly when and what activities should be carried out. If you cannot yet boast of knowledge in this area, then this article will help you find answers to questions such as preparing young apple trees and apple tree seedlings for winter, and the question of how to cover for the winter those apple trees that have delighted you for many years .
Preparing apple trees for winter

Of course, every gardener is concerned about the question how to insulate apple trees for the winter. If these are not young plantings, then courting the near-trunk circle will be enough for your beauties so that the roots do not freeze out. This may be a layer of mulch or earth taken from the aisle. But do not forget that you need to prepare for winter from the beginning of September. Around this time, it is necessary to make abundant watering of apple trees around the perimeter of the crown, and fertilizers can also be applied. And then we throw mulch or earth from the aisle on the trunk circle. This technique will allow your apple trees to most comfortably approach the winter cold. In no case do not water after the onset of frost, as you will only harm the trees. If there is a desire to prune trees, then this is also done only until the first frost. Other procedures can be started later, after harvesting. After the end of leaf fall, we remove the dead bark from the trunks of trees and burn it, and we apply white or lime on the boles. Also, after leaf fall, old trees can be sprayed from lichen with a solution of iron sulfate. It is also recommended to tie the bottom of tree trunks with roofing paper to protect against pests.

Recently, such a type of apple trees as columnar has become popular. Their preparation for winter is not something specific; all the same procedures are suitable as for apple varieties that are more familiar to us. Young apple trees need more attention, and therefore their preparation for winter will take a little longer. For example, it is recommended to wrap the basal neck of young plantings with nylon stockings to protect against rodents. And a little higher, at a distance of about 10 cm from the ground, it is worth making a shelter from newspapers that protects the trunks from frost and pests. The newspaper strips that you wrap around the trunk should be multi-layered so as not to get wet from rain and snow. If you are thinking about what else to close your apple trees for the winter, then there is a completely inexpensive material - snow. As soon as snow falls, it is raked on the trunk circle, the more the better. Such a simple technique as raking snow to the trunks will allow you to save young apple trees in winter.

Preparing apple seedlings for winter

If you decide to decorate your garden with new seedlings, then remember that only frost-resistant varieties of apple trees can be planted before winter, while the rest of the seedlings should be dug up and planted in the spring. By the way, it is not forbidden to prepare pits for planting in the fall. So, how to cover apple tree seedlings for the winter? To begin with, choose a dry, high place that is not blown by the winds. Next, we prepare the soil: we add peat or humus to the sandy one, and sand to the loamy one. We mix everything well and dig a groove from west to east with a width and depth of about 30 cm. We put seedlings in it with a slope to the south (this will save them from sunburn) and fill it with earth. The soil needs to be shed well so that the roots are moistened. Around the seedlings we lay out means from rodents: bait, branches of wild rose or blackberry. We beware of a large accumulation of snow around the seedlings by the end of winter - they can support, and therefore excess snow should be removed from the seedlings by the end of the earth.

If you already have a harvest of apples, then you can learn how to preserve apples in winter quality, various ways of packaging and storage.

pruning apple tree

Many, unfortunately, neglect this agricultural technique. Some believe that the tree knows better than we what it needs, others believe that pruning does more harm than good. Other gardeners understand the importance and usefulness of pruning, but they don't know how to approach a tree. After all, do what is wrong - you can’t put the circumcised back. But there are daredevils who believe that there are no difficulties here and begin to cut branches as God puts on their souls. More than once I had to see trees mutilated by scammers. Pruning is the most difficult operation in gardening, it is carried out according to strictly defined rules.

I will briefly outline the essence of this operation. A fruit tree, if not pruned, grows up and down. Leaves and fruits rise to the periphery of the crown. The growths of branches and fruit formations in the central part become smaller, die off, the apple tree becomes bare. The leaves appearing here are shady, photosynthesis in them is several times weaker than in the light ones. Meanwhile, it is known that the main crop is formed on young branches in a well-lit part of the crown, which means that there should be no shaded areas. The optimal crown is 2-2.5 meters wide and up to 4 meters high. Wherein free space between crowns in a row should be at least half a meter, and between rows - a distance equal to the height of the tree.

The type of pruning depends on the age and condition of the plant.

In order to prevent the growth of young fruit branches from stopping, it is necessary to start rejuvenating the tree and normalize the number of fruit buds. To do this, the ends of the main and strong overgrowing branches with increments of less than 10-15 centimeters must be cut off for translation in the place where the growth was at least 25-30 centimeters. Partially remove frail and unproductive fruit branches, and cut some of them over a well-developed branch. The weaker the growth, the stronger the pruning. At least once every two or three years, cut the branches growing upwards by transferring them to the branch towards the periphery.

If the tree has not been pruned for a long time, it has thickened and become bare inside, it is necessary to identify the leader and main branches, subordinate them and remove several large ones, without touching the small overgrown ones. In an adult tree, pruning begins with lowering the height and opening the center. Eliminate part of the central conductor, if it is visible, or 2-3 large branches that replace it, with the transfer to the side branches and thin out the most dense areas. Very tall and very bare in the center of the apple tree must be cut off gradually, immediately reducing the height from 7 meters to 3 is difficult. In parallel, the tree is thinned out.

When pruning thickened trees, try not to inflict large wounds on the plant at the same level on the trunk and main branches. If there is a need to remove two such branches, cut one of them into a ring, and the second - by transferring to some branch. When the wound heals, you can finally cut off the second one. Be sure to cover and cover up wounds immediately to prevent infection.

re-vaccination

About spinning tops and silkworms

Memo to the gardener

When pruning, many factors must be taken into account, including varietal characteristics of the growth and fruiting of a tree. For example, some varieties with strong growth (Antonovka ordinary) require slight shortening and thinning of only extra branches, and snow calvil and aport require stronger thinning and weak shortening. Varieties with moderate growth and medium thickening of the crown (papirovka, winter golden parmen, champagne renette, saffron pepin) must be thinned out and shortened medium. Varieties with weak growth and early fruiting (Lithuanian Pepinka, many spur varieties) require heavy pruning and very little thinning. Varieties with a narrow pyramidal crown (sinapy) - more thinning of the crown than varieties with spreading crowns (renetes).

In varieties that bear fruit mainly at the ends of long branches and on fruit twigs (calvili, aporta, rosemary), over time, the crown becomes sprawling, the branches sag under load, and a large number of shoots that thicken the crown appear from dormant buds. If such a tree has strong growths, it is necessary first of all to thin out and cut at the same time, and if the growths are weak, then first of all it is necessary to shorten and remove excess branches in the middle of the crown. In varieties with a predominantly ringed type of fruiting (Antonovka, Borovinka, papirovka, renettes), pruning can be done every 3-5 years, shortening the skeletal branches. If the growth is weak, pruning is carried out on 3-5-year-old wood and up to 25% of old rings are cut out. In varieties that occupy an intermediate position between these two groups (melba, Simirenko's renet, autumn striped), pruning also includes techniques characteristic of both groups: the crown is periodically thinned out and the branches are shortened, and if growth has practically stopped, a strong pruning of 4-6- summer and older wood to encourage the growth of young shoots.

Top dressing of apple trees

Every gardener knows that proper and timely feeding fruit trees is the key to their health and successful fruiting. Such a fruit tree as an apple tree is no exception to this rule and also requires periodic top dressing.

We have already considered how to properly fertilize the garden, here we will focus on a specific crop - apple trees.

Apple trees need to be fed with appropriate fertilizers 4 times throughout the garden season: in the spring in the second half of April, at the beginning of the flowering of the apple tree, during the period of fruit pouring, and the last top dressing is done after the final harvest.

First of all, it is necessary to define the zone top dressing of an apple tree. It is determined by a circle at a distance of about 50-70 cm from the tree trunk and to the end of its branches - the so-called trunk circle.
Methods for preparing a feeding solution for apple trees.

For the first feeding of an apple tree, it is possible to use 4-5 buckets of manure humus, which is sorted out from stones and various debris found in it and scattered around the tree. With the same success, you can use urea to feed the apple tree. It is scattered at the rate of 400-500 grams per 1 tree.

At the first feeding of an apple tree, spraying it with a solution of 2 tablespoons of urea in 10 liters of water gives a good effect. Spray should be leaves, branches and trunk. This procedure should be repeated a couple more times after the end of the flowering of the apple tree with an interval of 20 days.

For the second feeding of the apple tree, it is required to prepare a special feeding solution. When determining its quantity, it is necessary to proceed from the calculation for 1 tree - 50 liters of feeding solution. We prepare the solution as follows. In the prepared water we place 250 grams of superphosphate, 150 grams of urea and 200 grams of potassium sulfate. Urea can be replaced with 1.5 liters of bird droppings.

The resulting solution is thoroughly mixed and applied to the feeding area. With this method of feeding, since it is produced in the hot season, it is better to water the tree both before and after feeding.

For the third feeding of an apple tree, it is also necessary to prepare a feeding solution based on the fact that it takes about 30 liters per 1 tree. To prepare a feeding solution, 3 grams of dry sodium humate is diluted in hot water and poured into the water prepared for the feeding solution. Next, 130 grams of nitrophoska (complex nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizer) is added to the solution. The resulting solution is also thoroughly mixed and introduced into the feeding area.

When preparing a solution for the fourth feeding of apple trees, 300 grams of potassium sulfate and superphosphate are mixed in 30-40 liters of water. The resulting solution is thoroughly mixed and introduced into the bait zone. If after harvesting the fruits the weather is rainy, then dry application of these fertilizers to the bait zone of the apple tree is allowed.

It is worth remembering that any additional top dressing of an apple tree produced by spraying should be completed at least one month before the start of fruit collection. Compliance with these simple rules feeding the apple tree will allow you to increase the vitality of the tree, its resistance to disease and increase productivity.

To plant an apple tree, you need to purchase a quality seedling. The harvest depends on the correct choice of seedling. What to pay attention to? What to ask the seller?

Apple trees grow better and bear fruit more abundantly if there are several of them on the site. But in a small garden, I want to plant other trees! Perhaps your close neighbors have apple trees, then the problem is solved.

On a fairly large area, it is better to plant several apple trees of different varieties so that there are both early and late apples.

When choosing seedlings, you need to consider several important points:

Seedling size and rootstock

The size and dimensions of an apple tree must meet standards and be sold with stiff branches. Previously, almost all varieties of apple trees were tall, they began to bear fruit 6-7 years after planting. Now there are both medium-sized and dwarf ones. The size of the tree largely depends on the rootstock. You should ask the seller about this. If he finds it difficult to answer such a question, then he has nothing to do with seedlings, what can be bought from him is unknown.

All varietal apple trees are grafted onto a specific plant - a stock. The root system of the apple tree depends on it. There are a large number of well-known rootstocks for apple trees in the world.

Vigorous rootstock- this is basically a seedling grown from the seed of a wild apple tree or apple tree of the Antonovka variety. Apple trees on this rootstock grow five to seven meters high. Fruiting begins in the sixth year. The life expectancy of a tree is up to eighty years. They have deep roots, so these apple trees are not suitable for areas where groundwater is high. Currently, the tall rootstock is used less because of the strong growth and late entry of trees into fruiting.
Medium and semi-dwarf the rootstock is obtained vegetatively, it gives a tree height of 3.5 - 4 meters. Apple trees on this stock live 30-35 years, they begin to bear fruit in the fourth year.
dwarf rootstock mainly used in intensive horticulture. The height of the tree is 2-2.5 meters, fruiting - for 2-3 years. With anti-aging pruning, trees live up to 30 years. This the best option for areas where the groundwater level is above 1.5 m.

Visual inspection of the seedling

Height annual apple trees should correspond to approximate sizes from 120 to 130 centimeters. If the seedling is lower standard size, this indicates improper care. For example, about insufficient feeding, watering, seedling diseases, the presence of pests. If the seedling is too tall and the shoot is not mature, this is an example of insufficient application of fertilizers or watering.

On the cut, the roots should be light and juicy. The trunk of the seedling should not be damaged, and on the shoots themselves there should be no traces of pests and diseases. When selling a tree, there should be a tag with information about the species and variety.

The roots of a good seedling have branches and many small roots. If one tap root or roots are broken, it should not be taken.

9.02.2016 | 11364

How to choose an apple tree seedling in a nursery so as not to regret wasted money? Arm yourself with our recommendations!

Each gardener strives to gradually acquire new varieties of shrubs and fruit trees in his country house. However, when choosing certain seedlings, it is very easy to get confused and not get what you would like at all. In addition, many sellers, alas, cannot be considered conscientious and often they sell bushes affected by diseases, confuse varieties intentionally or on purpose. But in the end, after a few years of caring for the tree, the summer resident realizes that it has not grown at all what I would like to see on the site.

Common situation? Many have encountered this, so today we will look at how to choose the right apple seedling and not get an unnecessary purchase.

Basic selection rules

When the variety has already been selected and the summer resident mentally knows what the crop will be, the choice before him is different - to correctly select planting material. And this is where we need to start from groundwater level which dominates the area. If they are located below 3 meters, then you can pick up any stock and apple trees can be vigorous, semi-dwarf and dwarf.

If the groundwater level above 2.5 meters, then seed (they are vigorous) rootstocks are not suitable for the site, since in this case the tree reaches up to 8 meters in height (without shaping), and such a "giant" will have to take root directly into the water. In this case, you may encounter the following issues:

Decreased yield;
Loss of winter hardiness and gradual or even complete freezing;
The appearance of a large number of diseases due to the weakening of the tree;
Withering crown.

In the end, the tree will simply die, so initially you should select those species that will not have a highly branched, but shallow root system.

Semi-dwarf varieties are very well suited for such areas, but in some climatic conditions develop poorly. So, only a few of them are suitable for the Moscow region. For example, 54-118. Therefore, before buying, try to outline the types and varieties to be chosen in advance in order to accurately purchase what will be profitable.

With nearby groundwater ( over 1.5 meters) only dwarf rootstocks are suitable, as well as those that appeared not so long ago columnar variety.

Columnar apple trees have a superficial root system, which is both an advantage and a disadvantage, since these plants are very susceptible to freezing soil and severe frosts. They give a much smaller harvest compared to the first two types of rootstocks, but they can be planted quite close to each other (for example, according to the 1x1 m scheme).

They also require very careful attention from the gardener, namely watering and constant feeding, so you should not choose such planting material if you cannot or do not want to take proper care of them.

Selection by fruiting period

It is important to choose the right apple tree seedlings according to the maturity of the variety. For example, if an autumn apple tree is intended for the southern region, in the northern latitudes the fruits on it will not have time to fully ripen. In addition, it always depends on the landing site and what additional qualities will possess the tree. For example, in the southern latitudes there is no need to select varieties with frost-resistant properties, and in the middle and near to the north there is no need for them to have increased resistance to diseases inherent in the south.

By maturity, 3 main types of seedlings can be distinguished:

summer apple trees they give a harvest in August, so the shelf life usually does not exceed a month. These types usually have excellent taste qualities. The most common varieties - White filling, Lungwort And Grushovka, - can be selected for landing in middle latitudes;

autumn apple trees bear fruit from September, and it is possible to keep the fruit intact for a month. Cinnamon striped, Melba, Borovinka- these are the most famous representatives;

winter apple trees harvest is given at the very end of September or sometimes early October. Such apples have the highest shelf life (usually up to six months) due to the density of the fruit and its taste. These types are worth choosing for areas with hot summers and warm autumns. The following types of varieties are currently known: Moscow winter, Antonovka, Bogatyr, Aport, Welsey.

What to look for when buying?

Since a properly selected seedling plays an important role in obtaining a healthy and strong tree, the main attention should still be paid to its condition.

First of all, pay attention to root condition purchased plant, because they are the most important part of the whole tree. Since they are the least protected, unlike the stems, they can tell a lot about the quality of the apple tree. So if they look lethargic and dry, which means that the plants were poorly stored, and this will not contribute to the survival of the purchased planting material. And will a good seller treat his product this way? This means that he is unscrupulous, and it is better to avoid purchasing any purchases from him.

Pay also attention are the roots exposed, removed into the soil, any moist environment, or at least shaded. In the first case, it is better to immediately look for another seller, because the roots of a good seedling should always be in a nutritious and cool environment.

In addition, a good seedling should always meet the following requirements.

He must be zoned, that is, grow in the same latitude where it is bought and have all the relevant features for this (such as, for example, frost resistance, resistance to the influence of a particular disease, and more).

The stem must not have any damage and the slightest wounds, should be even and straight.

The seedling must be well grafted. If the branches are located at right angles to the main stem and at the same time have thorns, then you have a wild animal in front of you and you should not buy it. The fruits of such an instance will be small, the harvest will be small, and the taste will be poor. You can also recognize a non-grafted vaccine by the fact that the shoot begins to grow directly from the rootstock.

Roots in the cut should be white- that means they're alive. Frozen and dried will be brown. Pay attention to how branched they are and whether they reach in size up to 30 cm, because this directly speaks of their excellent survival rate.

The roots should also not be dried, and you should not buy such a seedling, especially if the seller makes a discount. This only speaks of the desire to sell stale low-quality goods.

Roots need to be carefully check for any imperfections, swellings, as well as growths, since this sign speaks of root cancer frolicking at the apple tree. The stem, like the roots, should not have growths, even if they are located under the bark. Of course, some bumpiness can occur. To make sure the plant is healthy. Under her the stem should have a bright green color.

Age of planting material plays an important role, because the smaller it is, the the best properties he has survival. It is best if he is no more than 2 years old.

The age is determined simply: annual plants do not have well-developed branches, a two-year-old apple tree will have several additional branches located at different angles.

Carefully take the root in one hand, and with the other hand, gently pull the trunk. If he holding tight, which means that everything is in order with the vaccine, but if it lags behind the trunk, then it has rotted.

The roots should be moist, but not rotten. Also check them out elasticity, because if they are brittle, this is a bad sign.

If you want the seedling to have a better survival rate, then select those specimens that sold in containers. It has long been proven that if the plant was in the ground, that is, it had a closed root system, then there is a one hundred percent success in survival after planting.

Do not buy seedlings that have already released leaves, one of the most important rules. When landing in the ground, they will often get sick and it is not known whether they will be accepted at all, so it is better to look for specimens on which the buds have not yet blossomed.

Healthy seedlings: where to find?

Where to buy an apple tree seedling? Some summer residents prefer not to waste time looking for it and purchase plants in the markets or even on the roadsides. But in this case, enterprising scammers can easily pass off as another variety a plant unsuitable for growing in this latitude or even a wild one. And if at the same time a small tree is infected with some kind of viral disease, then in a few years it will spread to the entire garden.

Try to purchase any species, including dwarf and semi-dwarf, only in special nurseries. There you will really be sold the right type of apple tree, which is not only grafted in accordance with all the rules, but also passed sanitary control.

If you want to buy a seedling on the market, then be sure to ask for a certificate, as many nurseries in the autumn and spring periods can export their products for sale. Do not buy anything from those people who cannot confirm the quality of the seedling being sold, otherwise you will get a pig in a poke.