How to make a small electric motor at home. How to assemble a simple electric motor at home. Features of the collector motors
This video is for all novice ham radio experimenters who would like to make a simple mini motor from available radio components. Very good way to keep your child busy and accustom him to technical knowledge. Be sure that your child will show his knowledge in physics lessons at school.
Let's assemble a simple electric motor
Let's repeat the old school experiment. What you need to prepare for homemade:
Battery 2a. Enamelled wire with a cross section of 0.5 mm. Magnet. Two pins, stationery tape, plasticine. Tool. First, let's make a coil. We wind it from enameled wire. We make 6-7 turns around the battery. We fix the ends of the wire with knots. Now you need to properly clean the varnish on the coil. This important point- the performance of the engine depends on the correct execution. One end is completely cleared of insulation. The other is on one side. This side should line up with the bottom of the spool.
We fix the pins on the battery with tape. We check the contacts with a tester. Install the magnet. In this case, it's weak. Therefore, you have to lift it closer to the coil. We fix the structure on the table with plasticine. The coil must be installed correctly. When it is set, the bare ends should touch the pins.
The principle of operation of the simplest micro motor
A magnetic field is generated in the coil. It turns out an electromagnet. The poles of the permanent magnet and the coil must be the same. That is, they must repel. The repulsive force turns the coil. One of the ends loses contact and the magnetic field disappears. By inertia, the coil turns. The contact reappears and the cycle repeats.
If the magnets are attracted, the engine will not spin. Therefore, one of the magnets will need to be turned over.
We start the motor. We can give a little practicality to this product. Attach a hypnotic coil to one end of the coil. Fascinating! You can make a famous thaumatrope with a bird in a cage.
Channel “OlO”
A more advanced homemade engine for studying electromagnetic phenomena
Video “99%DIY”. 
We need a wine cork. First of all, we make a hole in the center. On both sides we cut out small planes. Insert the knitting needle into the hole. Fix with superglue. We wind electrical tape on the knitting needle. We install two pieces of copper wire inside the cork.
You will need insulated thin copper wire to create a mini motor. The master used a length of 5 m and a diameter of 0.4 mm. We wind in the 1st direction on the motor rotor. We remove the insulation from the terminals of the winding. We connect the wires to the contacts. We fix the winding with superglue. We give contacts the following form. The motor rotor is ready.
Now let's make the body. This will require a wooden base and two small bars in which we make holes. Bars and glue on the base. Install the motor rotor.
From two pieces of copper wire we will make brushes for a mini motor.
Why do you need two magnets. Glue on small wooden blocks. We glue the blanks on the base, leaving a minimum gap between the magnets and the winding. The electric motor is ready. Now let's move on to testing.
As you can see in the filmed video, this miniature engine has a lot of backlash and does not have much power. But this is not important for such a homemade product, it is designed to study electromagnetic phenomena that often take place at school superficially, without the use of special experiments. It is impossible to study the subject without visual and practical actions, especially when it comes to electricity. Here the imagination is a weak helper.
However, as you may have also noticed, you can attach some kind of drive to the motor shaft. For example, the fan will work. When you have mastered this video tutorial, you can proceed to a more advanced motor. Use bearings to reduce friction. Then the efficiency of a do-it-yourself device can compete with industrial products of this kind.
It is always interesting to observe changing phenomena, especially if you yourself participate in the creation of these phenomena. Now we will assemble the simplest (but really working) electric motor, consisting of a power source, a magnet and a small coil of wire, which we ourselves will make.
There is a secret that will make this set of items become an electric motor; a secret that is both clever and amazingly simple. Here's what we need:
1.5V battery or accumulator.
Holder with contacts for the battery.
Magnet.
1 meter of wire with enamel insulation (diameter 0.8-1 mm).
0.3 meters of bare wire (diameter 0.8-1 mm).
We'll start by winding the coil, the part of the motor that will spin. To make the coil sufficiently even and round, we wind it on a suitable cylindrical frame, for example, on an AA battery.
Leaving 5 cm of wire free at each end, we wind 15-20 turns on a cylindrical frame.
Don't try to wind the spool too tightly and evenly, a small degree of freedom will help the spool retain its shape better.
Now carefully remove the coil from the frame, trying to maintain the resulting shape.
Then wrap the free ends of the wire several times around the turns to keep the shape, making sure that the new binding turns are exactly opposite each other.
The coil should look like this: 
Now it's time for the secret, the feature that will make the motor work. It's a secret because it's a subtle and non-obvious trick, and it's very hard to detect when the motor is running. Even people who know a lot about the operation of engines may be surprised by the ability of the motor to work until they discover this subtlety.
Holding the spool upright, place one of the free ends of the spool on the edge of a table. With a sharp knife, remove the top half of the insulation, leaving the bottom half in the enamel insulation.
Do the same with the other end of the coil, making sure that the bare ends of the wire are pointing up at the two free ends of the coil.
What is the meaning of this approach? The coil will lie on two holders made of bare wire. These holders will be attached to different ends of the battery, so that electricity could pass from one holder through the coil to another holder. But this will only happen when the bare halves of the wire are lowered down, touching the holders.
Now you need to make support for the coil. They are simply coils of wire that support the coil and allow it to spin. They are made of bare wire, since in addition to supporting the coil, they must deliver an electric current to it.
Just wrap each piece of bare wire around a small nail and you have the right part for our engine.
The base of our first electric motor will be the battery holder. This will be a suitable base, because at installed battery it will be heavy enough to keep the motor from shaking.
Assemble the five pieces together as shown in the picture (without the magnet at first). Put a magnet on top of the battery and gently push the coil... 
If done correctly, THE COIL WILL START SPINING FAST! We hope that you, as in our experiment, will work the first time.
If, nevertheless, the motor does not work, carefully check all electrical connections. Does the coil rotate freely? Is the magnet close enough (if not, install additional magnets or cut wire holders)?
When the motor starts, the only thing you need to pay attention to is that the battery does not overheat, since the current is quite large. Just remove the coil and the circuit will be broken.
Let's find out exactly how our the simplest electric motor. When an electric current flows through the wire of any coil, the coil becomes an electromagnet. The electromagnet acts like a normal magnet. It has a north and south pole and can attract and repel other magnets.
Our coil becomes an electromagnet when the uninsulated half of the protruding coil wire touches the uninsulated holder. At this moment, current begins to flow through the coil, the coil has a north pole, which is attracted to the south pole of the permanent magnet, and a south pole, which is repelled from the south pole of the permanent magnet.
We stripped the top of the wire with the coil upright, so the poles of the electromagnet would point right and left. And this means that the poles will move to be in the same plane as the poles of the lying magnet, pointing up and down. Therefore, the coil will turn towards the magnet. But in doing so, the insulated part of the wire of the coil will touch the holder, the current will be interrupted, and the coil will no longer be an electromagnet. It will rotate further by inertia, again touch the non-insulated part of the holder, and the process will repeat again and again until the current runs out in the batteries.
How can you make an electric motor spin faster?
One way is to add another magnet on top.
Bring the magnet up while the coil is spinning, and one of two things will happen: either the motor will stop, or the motor will spin faster. The choice of one of the two options will depend on which pole of the new magnet will be directed towards the coil. Just remember to hold the bottom magnet, otherwise the magnets will jump to each other and destroy the fragile structure!
Another way is to put small glass beads on the axis of the coil, which will reduce the friction of the coil on the holders, as well as better balance the electric motor.
There are many more ways to improve this simple design, but we have achieved the main goal - you have assembled and fully understood how the simplest electric motor works.
Consider some aspects of design. We will not promise the manufacture of a perpetual motion machine, according to the type of creation attributed to Tesla, but the story is expected to be interesting. We will not disturb readers with paper clips and batteries, we propose to talk about how to adapt a ready-made motor for your own purposes. It is known that there are a lot of designs, all are used, but modern literature leaves the basic foundations behind the stern. The authors studied the textbook of the last century, learning how to make an electric motor with their own hands. Now we offer to plunge into the knowledge that makes up the basis of a specialist.
Why are collector motors often used in everyday life?
If we take the phase at 220V, the principle of operation of the electric motor on the collector makes it possible to make devices 2-3 times less massive than when using an asynchronous design. This is important in the manufacture of appliances: hand blenders, mixers, meat grinders. Among other things, it is difficult to accelerate an asynchronous motor above 3000 rpm; there is no specified limitation for collector motors. What makes the devices the only ones suitable for the implementation of designs of centrifugal juicers, not to mention vacuum cleaners, where the speed is often not lower.
There is no question of how to make an electric motor speed controller. The problem was solved a long time ago by cutting off part of the supply voltage sinusoid cycle. This is possible, because the collector motor does not care whether it is powered by a variable or direct current. In the first case, the characteristics fall, but the phenomenon is tolerated because of the obvious benefits. The electric motor of the collector type works and in washing machine, and in the dishwasher. Although the speeds are very different.
Easy to do and reverse. To do this, the polarity of the voltage on one winding is changed (if both are affected, the direction of rotation will remain the same). Another task is how to make an engine with a similar amount constituent parts. It is unlikely that it will be possible to make a collector on your own, but it is quite possible to rewind and pick up a stator. Note that the rotation speed depends on the number of rotor sections (similar to the amplitude of the supply voltage). And on the stator there are only a couple of poles.
Finally, when using this design, it is possible to create a universal device. The motor runs easily on both AC and DC. It’s just that a tap is made on the winding, when turned on from the rectified voltage, the turns are fully used, and with a sinusoidal only a part. This allows you to keep the nominal parameters. Making a primitive collector-type electric motor does not look like an easy task, but it will be possible to fully adapt the parameters to your own needs.
Features of the collector motors
In a commutator motor, there are not too many poles on the stator. To be more precise, there are only two - northern and southern. The magnetic field, as opposed to asynchronous motors, does not rotate here. Instead, the position of the poles on the rotor changes. This state of affairs is ensured by the fact that the brushes gradually move along the sections of the copper drum. The special winding of the coils ensures proper distribution. The poles seem to slide around the circle of the rotor, pushing it in the right direction.
To ensure the reverse mode, it is enough to change the polarity of the power supply of any winding. The rotor in this case is called the armature, and the stator is called the exciter. It is permissible to include these circuits in parallel to each other or in series. And then the characteristics of the device will begin to change significantly. This is described by mechanical characteristics, take a look at the accompanying drawing to show what is claimed. Here, graphs are conditionally shown for two cases:
- With parallel supply of the exciter (stator) and the armature (rotor) of the collector motor with direct current, its mechanical characteristic is almost horizontal. This means that when the load on the shaft changes, the nominal shaft speed is maintained. This is used on processing machines, where changing the speed does not have the best effect on quality. As a result, the part rotates briskly when touched by a cutter, as at the start. If the obstructing moment increases too much, stalling occurs. The engine stops. Summary: if you want to use the engine from a vacuum cleaner to create a metalworking (lathe) machine, it is proposed to connect the windings in parallel, because in household appliances a different type of inclusion dominates. And the situation is understandable. When the windings are supplied in parallel with alternating current, too much inductive resistance is formed. This technique should be used with caution.
- When the rotor and stator are fed in series, a lovely property appears in the collector motor - a large torque at the start. This quality is actively used for breaking trams, trolleybuses and, probably, electric trains. The main thing is that when the load increases, the speed does not break. If you start the collector engine in this mode at idle, the speed of rotation of the shaft will increase immensely. If the power is low - tens of W - you should not worry: the friction force of bearings and brushes, the increase in induction currents and the phenomenon of remagnetization of the core together will slow down growth at a specific value. In the case of industrial units or the aforementioned vacuum cleaner, when its engine is removed from the housing, the speed increase is like an avalanche. The centrifugal force is so great that the loads can break the anchor. Be careful when starting collector motors with series excitation.
Collector motors with parallel connection of the stator and rotor windings are perfectly adjustable. By introducing a rheostat into the exciter circuit, it is possible to significantly increase the speed. And if such an anchor is attached to the branch, the rotation, on the contrary, will slow down. This is widely used in technology to achieve the desired characteristics.
The design of the collector motor and its connection with losses
When designing commutator motors, information regarding losses is taken into account. There are three types:
Usually, when supplying a collector motor with alternating current, the windings are connected in series. Otherwise, there is too much inductive reactance.
To the above, we add that when the collector motor is powered by alternating current, the inductive resistance of the windings comes into play. Therefore, at the same operating voltage, the speed will decrease. The stator poles and housing are protected from magnetic losses. It is easy to verify the need for this by simple experience: feed a low-power collector motor from a battery. His body will remain cold. But if you now apply an alternating current with the same effective value (according to the testimony of the tester), the picture will change. Now the housing of the collector motor will start to warm up.
Therefore, they even try to assemble the casing from sheets of electrical steel, riveting or gluing with the help of BF-2 and analogues. Finally, let's supplement what has been said with the statement: the sheets are typed along the cross section. Often the stator is assembled according to the sketch shown in the figure. In this case, the coil is wound separately according to the template, then insulated and put back on, simplifying assembly. As for the techniques, it is easier to cut steel on a plasma machine, and not think about the cost of the event.
Easier to find (in a landfill, in a garage) already finished form for assembly. Then wind coils of copper wire with varnish insulation under it. Obviously the diameter is larger. First, the finished coil is pulled onto the first protrusion of the core, then onto the second. Press the wire so that a small air gap remains at the ends. It is believed that this is not critical. To hold on, sharp corners are cut off at the two extreme plates, the remaining middle is bent outward, squeezing the ends of the coil. This will help to assemble the engine to factory standards.
Often (especially in blenders) there is an open stator core. This does not distort the shape of the magnetic field. Since there is only one pole, there is no need to expect special power. The shape of the core resembles the letter P; a rotor rotates between the legs of the letter in a magnetic field. Under the device, circular slots are made in the right places. It is not difficult to assemble such a stator yourself from an old transformer. It's easier than making an electric motor from scratch.
The core at the winding point is insulated with a steel sleeve, on the sides - with dielectric flanges cut from any suitable plastic.
Many radio amateurs are always not averse to making some kind of decorative device for purely demonstrative purposes. To do this, the simplest schemes and improvised means are used, movable mechanisms that can clearly show the effect of electric current are in great demand. As an example, we will look at how to make a simple electric motor at home.
What is needed for a simple electric motor?
Please note that to make a working electric machine designed to perform some kind of useful work from the rotation of the shaft at home is quite difficult. Therefore, we will consider simple model demonstrating the principle of operation of an electric motor. With it, you can demonstrate the interaction of magnetic fields in the armature winding and the stator. Such a model will be useful as a visual aid for school or a pleasant and informative pastime with children.
To make the simplest homemade electric motor, you will need an ordinary finger-type battery, a piece of copper wire with lacquer insulation, a piece of a permanent magnet, not large in size. more battery, a pair of paper clips. From the tool enough wire cutters or pliers, a piece of sandpaper or other abrasive tool, adhesive tape.
The process of manufacturing an electric motor consists of the following steps:
A simple electric motor is ready - just push the coil with your finger and it will start a rotational movement, which will continue until you stop the motor shaft or the battery runs out.
Rice. 4: start the coil If rotation does not occur, check the quality of the current collection and the condition of the contacts, how freely the shaft moves in the guides and the distance from the coil to the magnet. The smaller the distance from the magnet to the coil, the better the magnetic interaction, so you can improve the performance of the electric motor by reducing the length of the racks.
Single cylinder electric motor
If the previous version did not perform any useful work due to its design features, then this model will be a little more complicated, but it will find practical use at your home. For manufacturing, you will need a 20 ml disposable syringe, copper wire for winding the coil (0.45 mm in diameter is used in this example), larger diameter copper wire for the crankshaft and connecting rod (2.5 mm), permanent magnets, wooden planks for the frame and structural elements, DC power supply.
Of the additional tools you will need a glue gun, a hacksaw, a clerical knife, pliers.
The manufacturing process of the electric motor is as follows:
- Use a hacksaw or utility knife to cut the syringe to get a plastic tube.
- Wind a thin copper wire around a plastic tube and fix its ends with glue, this will be the stator winding.
Rice. 5: wind the wire around the syringe - Remove the insulation from thick wire with a clerical knife. Cut two pieces of wire.
- Bend the crankshaft and connecting rod for the electric motor from these pieces of wire, as shown in the figure below.
Rice. 6: bend the crankshaft and connecting rod - Put the connecting rod ring on the crankshaft to ensure it is tightly fixed, you can put a piece of insulation under the ring.
Rice. 7: put the connecting rod on the crankshaft - From wooden dies, make two stands for the shaft, a wooden base and an eye for neodymium magnets.
- Glue the neodymium magnets together and glue the tab to them with a glue gun.
- Fix the second ring of the connecting rod in the eye with a cotter pin made of copper wire.
Rice. 8: fix the second connecting rod ring - Insert the shaft into wooden posts and put on bushings to limit movement, make them from pieces of native wire insulation.
- Glue the stator with the winding, the racks with the connecting rod on a wooden base, in addition to wood, you can use other dielectric material.
Rice. 9: glue the racks and stator - Using flat head screws, secure the leads to the wooden base. The two contacts must be long enough to touch the motor shaft - one on the curved part, the other straight.
Rice. 10: shaft touch points - Put on the shaft on one side the flywheel to stabilize the rotation, and on the other hand the impeller for the fan.
- Solder one lead of the motor winding to the elbow contact, and the second to a separate lead.
Rice. 11: solder the winding leads - Connect the electric motor to the battery with alligator clips.
The single-cylinder electric motor is ready for operation - it is enough to connect power to its outputs for operation and scroll the flywheel if it is in a position from which it cannot start itself.
Rice. 12: plug in the power To stop the rotation of the fan, turn off the motor by removing the crocodile from at least one of the contacts.
Cork and spoke motor
It is also a relatively simple homemade option, for its manufacture you will need a champagne cork, insulated copper wire for winding the anchor, a knitting needle, copper wire for making contacts, electrical tape, wooden blanks, magnets, a power source. From the tools you will need pliers, a glue gun, a small file, a drill, a clerical knife.
The manufacturing process of the electric motor will consist of the following steps:
Rice. 14: Connect winding ends and leads For better contact, you can solder. The conclusions should be bent so that they literally lie on the spoke.
It is always interesting to observe changing phenomena, especially if you yourself participate in the creation of these phenomena. Now we will assemble the simplest (but really working) electric motor, consisting of a power source, a magnet and a small coil of wire, which we ourselves will make.
There is a secret that will make this set of items become an electric motor. A secret that is both clever and amazingly simple. Here's what we need:
1 meter of wire with enamel insulation (diameter 0.8-1 mm).
0.3 meters of bare wire (diameter 0.8-1 mm).
1.5V battery or accumulator.
Holder with contacts for the battery.
We'll start by winding the coil, the part of the motor that will spin. To make the coil sufficiently even and round, we wind it on a suitable cylindrical frame, for example, on an AA battery.
Leaving 5 cm of wire free at each end, we wind 15-20 turns on a cylindrical frame.
Don't try to wind the spool too tightly and evenly, a small degree of freedom will help the spool retain its shape better.
Now carefully remove the coil from the frame, trying to maintain the resulting shape.
Then wrap the free ends of the wire several times around the turns to keep the shape, making sure that the new binding turns are exactly opposite each other.
The coil should look like this:
Now it's time for the secret, the feature that will make the motor work. It's a secret because it's a subtle and non-obvious trick, and it's very hard to detect when the motor is running. Even people who know a lot about the operation of engines may be surprised by the ability of the motor to work until they discover this subtlety.
Holding the spool upright, place one of the free ends of the spool on the edge of a table. With a sharp knife, remove the top half of the insulation, leaving the bottom half in the enamel insulation.
Do the same with the other end of the coil, making sure that the bare ends of the wire are pointing up at the two free ends of the coil.
What is the meaning of this approach? The coil will lie on two holders made of bare wire. These holders will be attached to different ends of the battery so that current can flow from one holder through the coil to the other holder. But this will only happen when the bare halves of the wire are lowered down, touching the holders.
Now you need to make support for the coil. They are simply coils of wire that support the coil and allow it to spin. They are made of bare wire, since in addition to supporting the coil, they must deliver an electric current to it.
Simply wrap each piece of bare wire around a small nail and you've got the right part for our engine.
The foundation of our first the electric motor will be the battery holder. This will be a suitable base, because with the battery installed, it will be heavy enough to the motor did not shake.
Assemble the five pieces together as shown in the picture (without the magnet at first). Place a magnet on top of the battery and gently push the coil...
If done correctly, THE COIL WILL START SPINING FAST! We hope that you, as in our experiment, will work the first time.
If, nevertheless, the motor does not work, carefully check all electrical connections. Does the coil rotate freely? Is the magnet close enough (if not, install additional magnets or cut wire holders)?
When the motor starts, the only thing you need to pay attention to is that the battery does not overheat, since the current is large enough. Just remove the coil and the circuit will be broken.
