The popularity of laminate flooring is explained very successful combination its price and quality. The price makes laminate competitive with almost any other flooring. Practicality, durability, wear resistance, ease of installation, easy maintenance of the flooring during operation make the laminate a "welcome guest" for any repair. Add to this a huge selection of laminate textures, up to imitation natural wood, stone and ceramic tiles, And color solutions offered by manufacturers. The laminate itself is being improved as a floor covering, and the locking joints of the panels are also being improved. Reliable adhesive bonding today has become almost archaic, replaced by the Lock-lock system, then Click-lock, 5g and Megalock locks, aluminum locks. All this, by and large, for the sake of achieving one goal - to maintain demand for the most popular flooring.

With all the simplicity (in fact, apparent) laying laminate with lock connections, there remains the problem of preparing the base for laying the coating. The base for the laminate must meet the following requirements:

  • Be even.
  • Be strong and stable.
  • Be dry.

The concept of "flat base" under the laminate gives the set of rules SP 29.13330.2011, according to which the difference in height should not exceed 2 mm along the entire length of the level 2 meters long.

Another important indicator is the slope of the base. According to the set of rules (this is clause 5.19), the slope should be within 0.2% of the corresponding size, while not exceeding 20 mm per room length.

These requirements are due to the fact that in the presence of more significant height differences, during operation, the joints of the panels will experience serious loads and, accordingly, will wear out faster. There will be gaps between the panels, and it will not work to repair the floor from the laminate.

Choosing plywood as a base for laminate flooring

Plywood has all the properties to be an excellent base for laminate flooring:

  • Plywood can easily level a wooden floor.
  • Plywood is characterized by low weight and high rigidity.
  • Plywood is distinguished by its ability to withstand significant loads.
  • The cost of plywood makes it a very affordable material.
  • Plywood allows you to produce preparatory work in the shortest possible time.
  • Plywood is not demanding on the conditions in which it is used.

Choice of brand of plywood

Plywood is produced in the form of a multilayer material of several pressed layers of different types and thicknesses. The number of layers is odd. In terms of moisture resistance, plywood happens:

  • FOF - suitable for residential use, low level of moisture resistance.
  • FC - suitable for use in residential premises, the average level of moisture resistance.
  • FSF is a brand with increased moisture resistance. It is unsuitable for use in residential premises due to the toxicity of the adhesive used in the composition of the material.

The material is made from coniferous trees and birch. Softwood plywood is mold and mildew resistant.

Important! For leveling wooden floors with subsequent laying of laminate, you should choose the FK brand (from birch). For these purposes, grade III plywood is suitable. Grade I has no flaws, grade II may have knot and veneer inserts, but their cost is much higher, and it makes no sense to purchase material of such grades as a leveling layer. Grade III has numerous cracks and knots in the structure, however this will not affect performance. Grade IV material does not always have a flat surface, and this condition is mandatory when laying a laminate.

I'm going to put laminate on the floor. Now the floor is wooden painted. A fibreboard-fibreboard, a type of thick cardboard, is nailed on top. This fiberboard is also painted.
But in some places it has small bulges, and where it is nailed %u2013 hollows. Can laminate be laid directly on this fiberboard or does it have to be removed?
Will the floor play on convex areas?

Related materials

We tore off the old wooden floors, which were raised by 20 cm. We will make a cement screed and lay a laminate. The screed is about 3-5 cm, it turns out that the level ...

Please tell me how to solve the issue. We bought a laminate, a substrate for it, a self-leveling mixture. They removed the old linoleum, and under it was bituminous ...

Visited with friends who had just renovated. Everything is very modern and high quality. Got the idea to make it at home...

User comments:

    In principle, laminate is a very undemanding flooring material. From the point of view of laying optimization, fiberboard is most often used to level the floor before laying the laminate. But in your case, in my opinion, the best would be complete replacement DPV, in order to avoid irregularities, if this is not possible, then try to neutralize these irregularities due to some kind of grasping materials (silicohelium with chips for example).

    Do you really have such bulges there that it will be noticeable on the laminate??? If this does not suit you, then you can put a new fiberboard, or even better, that it be plywood. You can simply glue it to the screed with any parquet glue, and screw it around the perimeter and in the center with self-tapping screws, this is done so that the base is strong and reliable. But the most important!!! Be sure to put a substrate, such as a cork, under the laminate.

    It is not recommended to lay the laminate on an uneven surface. All irregularities should not exceed 3mm per 1 m.p., if you have more, then they must be eliminated. The base must be clean, dry, even and strong, so not fiberboard is more suitable, but chipboard (chipboard), it can even be placed on top of fiberboard (so as not to tear it off).

    My husband laid laminate on lenolium, according to many finishing workers, this is even better than on concrete or self-leveling floors. If, as you say, where cavities are nailed, then as I understand it, not cavities, but a little from the nails is simply crushed, and about bulges - if these are not bubbles, as it happens there, it swells from moisture, or something like that, then not scary. Our floor was generally not very even, we were too lazy to level it, and there is such a place where you step on it, and you feel how the laminate sags a little, but we have been living for 3 years and there are no problems, nothing goes anywhere and does not disperse.

    If I were you, I would not take risks with laminate and additionally put either plywood at least 8mm or OSB board - 6mm. It would be enough. From the beginning, check the level of the floor, the difference should be no more than 5 mm per square meter. Good luck!

    Those who are accustomed to rip off money for every nonsense write about “leveling” and other costs. Laminate is easy to replace and cheap, so don't worry laser levels floor evenness and other marketing and management tricks.

    Chakra, we did exactly the same. They didn’t remove the old linoleum, they decided it would be warmer with it. Before laying the laminate, only the roughest irregularities were leveled with adhesive putty. They laid a foamed light substrate and laid a laminate. It bends in some places, but nothing critical has happened to it for more than two years. Correctly noted, if it breaks, it can be easily replaced. Even if the same design is not found, a die from under the furniture can be put in a prominent place, and put under a bed or a carpet of a different color.

    In principle, it is quite possible to put a laminate on fiberboard, but it is still better to lay a special substrate, it is inexpensive, but it will smooth out small irregularities well. Holes from nails don't matter at all. If the bulge is not more than 2 mm, then this is not scary. If large, you can try to process them with a grinder or file.

    Lay along the boards - you will break the locks.
    Fall asleep with sand - it will crunch
    You will level with a planer - drive in the nail heads deeper
    As an option, I will suggest the use of gypsum fiber. Cheaper than plywood, additional hydro-thermal insulation + leveling + speed.
    If the floor does not hit the level in the level, a frame is made under the level, covered with a fine fraction of expanded clay, 2 layers of GVL are laid with offset seams, then a substrate of 2 mm, then a laminate. Tested 4 years, no problem

    Nail holes are bullshit. If the bulge is not more than 2-3 mm, it’s also not scary. If your blisters are large, try filing with a file or grinder. In any case, additionally lay a special substrate under the laminate (see how to lay the laminate yourself in the video, everything is very clear there). No other alignment or replacement of fiberboard is needed.

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Before laying laminate on an uneven wooden floor, you should study the recommendations of professionals Repair work is often very scary for people. Still, when you think that a lot of things need to be done, even if the repair is exclusively of a finishing nature, it immediately becomes uncomfortable. In fact, everything is not so scary and not very difficult if you know exactly what you are going to do and how to prepare for the repair work. First of all, it is worth thinking carefully about what problems you may encounter during the repair work.

Easy installation of laminate flooring on uneven floors

Many residents of apartments and houses prefer to have laminate flooring that is pleasant for the household. Often in houses and apartments with wooden floors specialists are faced with the fact that it is completely impossible to lay a laminate directly on the floor until the problem is solved.


Before installing the laminate on an uneven floor, it is recommended to lay a substrate on it

The most frequent possible problems become uneven walls, floors or ceilings, as well as a number of other individual features that may be present in your apartment or house:

  • Relocated walls;
  • Non-standard window openings, etc.

Why can't you put laminate flooring directly on the floor? There are reasons for this. Laying on irregularities leads to the fact that the laminate can “go” with bumps, which subsequently leads to a violation of the integrity of the coating. Laying on such a floor is not only impractical, but also difficult in itself. In this case, it is almost impossible to fit small laminate tiles. How can you determine if the floor is even, if no flaws are visually noticeable, and the laying of the laminate does not work out in any way? good helper in this matter there will be an ordinary building level, which accurately determines whether the surface is flat or not.

If it was found that there is any unevenness on the floor surface, all work that has already begun to be done should be stopped and corrected.

Now the question arises, how to turn the unevenness of the floor into evenness? This question will always be answered by the relevant experts. They know better than anyone what threatens to repair a crooked floor, and how you can fix it all with your own hands. The most common way to level the floor is to use a material such as a leveling underlay, which should be laid on the floor surface. And yet, here, too, there are nuances. Let's take a closer look at this type of substrate.

Why do you need a leveling underlay for laminate flooring?

According to experts, most often similar problems are noted by repairmen of varying degrees of unevenness of walls, ceilings and floors. If the unevenness of the walls can still somehow be circumvented, for example, using special tiles or panels for finishing, installed on metal carcass, and the irregularities of the ceiling are harmoniously hidden under stretch ceilings, then an uneven wooden floor is a more serious problem.

Leveling underlay for laminate flooring perfect solution with small unevenness of the floor, whether it is a wooden floor or rough concrete.


Thanks to the leveling substrate, you can make the floor even and extend its life.

In this case, the underlay can be used when laying both laminate and parquet flooring without screed. The substrate can vary in thickness, which varies from 1 to 4 mm, to be enough for leveling, as well as by the manufacturer and the type of material itself.

So, the leveling substrate can be:

  1. PE foam underlay. This is the most popular synthetic-based material. It is characterized by low prices, high thermal insulation, which makes it an excellent material for leveling and simultaneously insulating the floor, in addition, such material is not attacked by rodents and pathogenic microorganisms.
  2. Cork backing type. It is a high-quality, environmentally friendly leveling material with a price corresponding to quality. At the same time, it is more expedient to lay a cork underlay for a long period under a high-quality expensive floor. Some manufacturers of cork substrates equip their material with an additional adhesive layer.
  3. Bituminous substrates with the addition of cork shavings. Regarding the pricing policy, it is as expensive as the cork counterpart, while, due to the addition of bitumen, it has excellent hygroscopicity and sound insulation.
  4. Styrofoam type leveling material. Laying such a substrate allows you to maintain the maximum level of the floor, helps to even out minor irregularities and flaws in the floor surface.
  5. Combined substrates. Most often, companies use a combination of expanded polystyrene and polyethylene foam for their production.
  6. Pine tile. Environmentally friendly material for leveling the floor surface. Laying such a substrate is not difficult, but it is worth remembering that coniferous tiles are laid diagonally.

Thus, it can be noted that before buying a leveling underlay, determine what type of floor it will be laid on, what price line of underlays and what properties and disadvantages the selected underlay model has.

Do I need to carefully level the floor under the laminate

It was considered where to start work on finishing the floor, how to choose a substrate, and what to pay attention to, but you need to decide, maybe you don’t need to deal with alignments? Finishing work by themselves imply the presence of an already flat surface on which the finishing will take place, but with some materials this rule can be neglected, with the exception of laminate. Laminate tiles should always be laid out on a perfectly flat floor surface. Otherwise, you will only get a headache.


If the room is residential, then for ease of use, the floor should be leveled before laying the laminate

The following flaws are also possible:

  1. The difference in the level of the floor surface will cause deformation of the laminate panels.
  2. The level difference between 2 adjacent floor areas will also cause poor adhesion between the panels, which will lead to cracks.
  3. The seams between laminate tiles will be subject to divergence, and hence deformation of the laminate material itself. Opened seams will have to be puttied more than once.
  4. On an uneven floor surface, especially at the transition between rooms, the laminate creaks.
  5. Due to the divergence of the panels, moisture will get under the coatings, which will cause irreversible sad consequences and the floor would have to be completely replaced.
  6. If the floor is uneven, you may notice that some of the laminate panels, and maybe several parts, are pressed through.

As can be understood from the above, it is always necessary to level the floor surface as much as possible before laying the laminate, otherwise you risk extending repair work not for a single day or even a month, respectively, and material costs for repairs will increase.

Can laminate flooring be laid directly on fiberboard?

Very often, people moving into apartments of the so-called old stock are faced with the fact that the floors are covered with fiberboard material, in other words, plywood or Chipboard boards. The question arises, is it necessary to remove everything to the rough surface of the floor, or can you install the laminate directly on top of the plates?


If you are laying laminate on fiberboard, then it must be carefully sanded, cleaned of debris and dust.

Experts say it's possible.

In addition, fiberboard and chipboard boards can be used to level the floors in the apartment, especially if there is not a strong allowable floor slope. A floor with a slope is the case when the height of one part of the floor is 0.1-0.2ᵒ or more higher than the other.

In defense of the use of fiberboard and chipboard, the advantages of this material work:

  • Such plates can easily level the floor surface;
  • Possessing good rigidity, the plates are an additional guarantor of the longevity of the laminate;
  • Pleasant cost of leveling material, compared with others;
  • Does not require special conditions - chipboard and fiberboard boards are covered different types floors in different rooms.

Although such plates are not a full-fledged high-quality board, they are able to cover and mask the unevenness of the floor, but also due to their great endurance, they can be used even in rooms with high traffic or the presence of massive heavy furniture. Such plates allow you to correct floor irregularities and level the floor surface. For these reasons alone, you can give the green light to the installation of stoves in the room.

If initially there were no fiberboard or chipboard boards on the floor, but you want to cover the floor with them, then first of all it is necessary to install the boards with all responsibility. Next comes the laying of the laminate itself, which in turn follows certain classic laying points, regardless of type.


When laying laminate, it should be borne in mind that a plinth will be installed around the perimeter of the room.

Consider what types of styling can be used:

  1. Laying the laminate perpendicular to the light source. This method is good if you are worried that the seams between the tiles will be visible.
  2. Laying light, diagonally and classic herringbone laying is possible. This can often be found in the apartments of the old fund.

Each way of laying allows you to achieve a special pattern on the surface of the floor, which makes the room more interesting and comfortable.

Ways to put laminate on an uneven wooden floor (video)

So, there are enough options for doing the job. It is important to understand for yourself what you want to get as a result. And then it remains only to follow the chosen technology.

Major home renovations usually involve changing floor covering. A material such as laminate is practical and comfortable. It combines some of the qualities of linoleum and outwardly imitates wooden plank floors or parquet.

Laminate flooring is very easy to install and requires little maintenance. Such a coating would be a good option in a house where there are small children.

Laminate is strong enough to withstand any impact. For example, he is not afraid of an overturned pot of boiling water or spilled paint. This type of flooring is presented in a wide range with various patterns and ornaments.

Helpful information ! In addition to the classic wood-like design, at the present time you can see original carpet patterns, marble-imitating coatings, and more.

It is worth noting that the laminate, like other flooring options, has some disadvantages. First of all, it is worth noting their fragility.

Its service life is no more than 5-6 years. This is due to the fact that the bottom layer of the laminate plate is chipboard or fiberboard. Therefore, the laminate, just like wood, is characterized by high porosity and over time it begins to warp.

What is the underlayment for?

In order for the laminate not to lose its original appearance for as long as possible, you need to use a substrate under this floor covering. In addition, it will act as a shock absorber and prevent subsidence and deformation of the coating at the moment when it is subjected to loads. Substrates are different and each of them has both its pros and cons.

Isolon and polyester

Izolon It is a material in the form of polyethylene foam. This type substrates are reasonably priced. It is able to withstand the influence of moisture, the occurrence of fungus, which often affects wooden surfaces. But isolon has one drawback - fragility.

Isolon is easily torn and sags very quickly under load, so it will not be able to cope with the task of depreciation. However, it has good sound insulation, which makes it especially in demand. Under the laminate, the isolon is connected by gluing with adhesive tape.

Polyester- This is a more expensive material that has a two-layer structure. A thin layer of aluminum foil is placed over the polyester layer.

In order to connect the pieces of polyester laid under the laminate, you need an adhesive tape made of aluminum frame, which can be purchased at any hardware store. Laying polyester implies great difficulties, unlike isolon. This is due to the fact that it does not roll well.

It fills the voids well, but under the influence of the load it is strongly deformed and sags..

Cork underlayment is the most expensive option available. But the high cost only indicates the appropriate quality of the material.

Important! Cork has excellent noise and heat insulation qualities, and also does an excellent job of depreciation. If there is a substrate of such a plan under the laminate, it will not sag or deform under the influence of loads for a long time.

Moreover, it is of natural origin, it does not contain heavy chemical compounds that harm the human body.

If we talk about the minuses of the cork substrate, then they can be attributed to the fact that it does not withstand moisture well. In order to neutralize this drawback, it must be covered with a waterproof composition.

In this case, tar will be the best option. In order to protect the substrate from moisture emanating from the concrete floor, it should be laid on glassine or greenhouse film. Today on sale there is a cork substrate that has a rubberized base or a variant with bitumen.

Having decided to use a cork substrate, you need to know that its thickness should be within 4 mm. The most optimal indicator is 2-3 mm.

A thicker underlay combined with an uneven floor will result in large joints between the planks, resulting in an unsightly floor surface. Before laying laminate flooring, the floor must be leveled.

The substrate is not able to smooth out all its defects and irregularities. In addition, it will positively affect the service life of the floor material.

Wood fiber substrates

Wood-fiber substrates are presented in the form of boards laid under the laminate. They perfectly dampen the sounds of steps, but are powerless in the fight against penetrating noise.

Helpful information! If you want to protect yourself from the sounds of noisy neighbors, you should refuse such a substrate plan. The main advantage of this material is thermal insulation, so it will ideal option for rooms on the first floors, where the floor is always cold.

  • In order to enhance the effectiveness of the wood fiber substrate, the boards must be laid perpendicularly.
  • Many masters recommend laying them at an angle of 45 ° to the direction of the checkers. Nearby rows can be shifted relative to each other by? plate length.
  • A distance of 2 mm should be ensured between the plates, the distance from the plate to the wall is 1 cm. In this case, with temperature changes in the air, the deformed substrate will not compress the floor covering.

Specialized substrates

Specialized substrates are made from non-traditional materials that are made by various construction companies. Such options include polymer porous substrates, etc.

Important! It is rather difficult to evaluate the advantages and disadvantages of these substrates, since the manufacturer often conceals their structure. However, specialized substrates are usually of good quality and provide all the necessary functions.

A good alternative to the traditional substrate would be its liquid variety, which implies an adhesive mass that connects the laminate to the base. In this case, the mass will not prevent the deformation of the laminate with fluctuations in room temperature and air humidity. The mass retains its elasticity and dampens noise well.

Fiberboard substrates have excellent sound and heat insulation. Their disadvantage is high porosity, as a result of which this kind of substrate is not able to withstand the influence of moisture.

By observing certain precautions, you can extend the life of the material. If moisture penetrates under the laminate, this will not lead to its deformation, but with regular exposure to water, it may be damaged. Therefore, it is necessary to provide it with proper operating conditions or cover the fiberboard panels with appropriate waterproof materials.

MDF underlays, just like fiber products, should be laid at a 45° angle to the laminate battens to help prevent overlapping gaps. It is important that there is a gap of 1-2 mm between the plates, and 5-10 mm between the plate and the wall.

The stability of the board can be increased by gluing it to the floor at several points. Another option is to attach it with staples or nails.

Coniferous tiles

Coniferous substrate under the laminate- This is an innovation that has appeared on the trading market relatively recently. The cost of such material is quite high, so sometimes it is not so easy to find it in hardware stores.

Often on sale you can see Isoplat coniferous plates. Such a plan material has environmentally friendly qualities, is able to pass air, so that you can prevent the greenhouse effect.

If we talk about elasticity, then the needles cannot compete with cork. Tiles made of needles have a thickness of 4-5 mm, which does not meet the requirements of laminate manufacturers. The substrate is laid diagonally.

Bitumen-cork substrates

The basis of such material is kraft paper in combination with bitumen. A small cork crumb is applied over the material. Chopped pieces of cork (2-3 mm) are used as a topping.

Bitumen is characterized by the fact that it does not allow moisture to pass through, is able to retain sounds, is breathable, and therefore does not allow the formation of condensate. The cost of a bituminous substrate is quite high, so it is advisable to lay it under expensive types of laminate. Conclusion

Using a laminate underlay is not required condition. However, without it, it will be necessary to carry out repeated repairs in 5-6 years. You can extend the life of the laminate by laying panels and special plates.

Their task is to protect the house from extraneous noise, cold. In addition, they prevent the deformation of the floor covering in the form of a laminate.

Laminate is one of the most popular flooring options these days. But masonry any material has its own invisible moments. This is what will be discussed further.

Invisible styling points

If you are asking if it is possible to put a new laminate on fiberboard, then you have come to the right place. We will try to figure out what the difficulties of such work are and how to avoid them.

Laying laminate on hardboard sheets

During the installation process laminate flooring the most important evenness of the floor base. Only in this case is it possible to correctly lay the panels.

Main! Differences in height are verified using a bubble level. In this case, the value should not be more than 2 millimeters. All bumps and holes should be removed. Most manufacturers dictate their own height difference values. But under any circumstances, the base should differ in particular evenness, otherwise the pops of the lamellae cannot be avoided. Yes, and panels covered with laminate can pop out of their own connections, which are called "lock".

Due to this, before laying down the laminate, it is recommended to correctly assess the condition of the floor. And if the base is uneven, the issue must be removed. As a rule, you can apply putty mixtures to the surface without even removing the fiberboard. This is when the sheets are laid on the concrete.

It is best to straighten the base for the laminate by removing the plywood. And if the floor is even, lay the panels right on it. If not, make a screed. This the best option. Practice shows that if there are a considerable number of irregularities, then it is easier to make a screed than to level everything with a putty composition.

Laminate flooring on concrete screed

The main thing is to adequately assess the condition of the floor base, so as not to lay the laminate in vain on the fiberboard and damage everything. No one speaks against laying laminate panels on fiberboard sheets. This is common material, and it is permissible in this case. Let us return only to the fact that the floor must be even.

Conclusion

Laying fiberboard sheets on the floor or not - depends only on your desire. There shouldn't be any problems. Look carefully at the quality of the material and ask the store for quality certificates for any product in order to masonry was of high quality.

How not to install laminate flooring Laminate on wooden floors in Khrushchev, without plywood



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