Grow seedlings of strawberries from seeds. How to grow strawberries from seeds: instructions for growing and caring for at home (100 photos and videos). Pre-sowing seed treatment

Every year I grow strawberries from seeds for seedlings at home, which I plant in spring in open ground. A neighbor in the garden asked me to teach how to breed strawberries. So this note appeared, in which I share my many years of practical experience.

As a child, I loved Victoria, now it is my son's favorite berry. Every year I plant two or three new varieties of strawberries, because each variety has a unique taste and aroma.

I have something to compare with, both in terms of yield and taste. A ripe, dense berry just picked from a bush cannot be compared with the watery mass that fills the markets and shops of our country every spring.

Why grow seedlings from seeds

Strawberries are garden perennial from the Rose family, does not occur in the wild. With age, the yield falls, diseases accumulate, the soil is depleted. Through the cultivation of seedlings from biological seeds, the population is updated and the beds are healed.

In the first year, strawberries are gaining strength, in the second and third years they bring the greatest harvest. In the fourth year, the harvest declines. In the fifth year, the strawberries are removed, and the bed is freed for other crops. Plant young plants regularly to maintain the cycle.

Shops for gardeners offer ready-made strawberry seedlings at a price of 250-300 rubles per plant. Pensioners, who make up 80% of summer residents and gardeners, cannot afford such expenses.

Grandmothers selling inexpensive seedlings in the market will not give a guarantee that the strawberries are varietal and have not degenerated, that this is the first shoot from the mother plant. Buy a pig in a poke, waste time without getting the coveted harvest.

My planting costs were:

• Soil - 50 rubles, 10 liters
• Seedling set - 200 rubles, 2 pallets and 20 pots
• Seeds "Strawberry Flavor of Summer F1" - 68 rubles, 4 pieces per pack
• Seeds "Strawberry Nastenka F1" - 68 rubles, 20 pcs. packaged
• Seeds "Strawberry Sweet Tooth F1" - 29 rubles, 10 pcs. packaged
• The atomizer and phytolamps are reusable, left over from previous seasons.

Total 415 rubles, of which 200 for reusable pots. The price of one strawberry seedling is 250 rubles as of 2018 in Novosibirsk. Even if you manage to grow only a few plants, the costs will pay off with interest.

When planting seedlings with seeds, it will be known what kind of variety it is and with what characteristics. You can choose types of strawberries, so that drought-resistant and moisture-resistant varieties grow at the same time. Then it doesn't matter if the summer is hot or rainy. You will not be left without a harvest of berries.

Beginning gardeners are stopped by the horrors that they write on the Internet about growing strawberries. Seed selection, soil preparation, stratification, sowing under snow, cotton swabs with seeds in the refrigerator ...

In fact, to achieve the result, you need only three components:

1. humidity
2. warm

Where to buy and how to choose seeds by variety

Seeds are sold in specialized stores and garden departments in large hypermarkets. Company garden stores usually sell products from only one agro-complex, which reduces the choice of options.

Large producers and suppliers supply seeds and seedlings by mail, which is convenient for residents of remote areas where there is no choice of specialized stores. Mail order catalog with detailed description strawberry varieties.

When choosing seeds, read the description of the variety, paying attention to the following details:

• Date of manufacture and shelf life of seeds: In old seeds, germination tends to zero.
• Berry weight, from 2.5 to 25 grams. There are varieties with a berry weight of 40 grams.

The larger the berry, the fewer seeds in one package and the more expensive one package of seeds costs. But collecting large berries is much more interesting.

• fruiting period

Early, mid-season, late-ripening - by combining varieties, the berry will be all summer in your beds.

Remontant strawberry - bears fruit evenly throughout the season, until autumn frosts. When wild strawberries moved away, grandmothers selling berries in cups disappeared from the markets, you will have fresh large berry from the bush. My practice shows that growing large-fruited remontant strawberries is no more difficult than ordinary strawberries.

• Mouthless strawberry

Mustacheless strawberry - requires less care, no need to regularly trim the mustache. For reproduction, an adult bush in the third year is transplanted to a new place and, during transplantation, is divided into parts, an independent plant will grow from each.

• mustachioed strawberry

Weeding of the mustache is required so that there is no thickening of the plantings. Already in the second year, due to the children, the bed will grow three times from the initial one. For divorce, only first-order sockets closest to the mother bush should be left

Terms of planting seeds of strawberries for seedlings

Strawberry seedlings are sown from mid-February to early April, 2-3 months before the end of the threat of return frosts. When you do not have additional lighting, it is better to plant a couple of weeks later.

Fortified bushes are planted in open ground in late May, early June. For regions middle lane Russia, Ural and Siberia optimal time landings in open ground - June 10.

When planting earlier, to protect strawberries from recurrent frosts, cover seedlings overnight with covering material or sprinkle with hay and straw.

The second time the seeds for seedlings are planted in June, for the autumn planting of strawberries in open ground. Strawberries, which were planted in August-September, will have time to take root before frost and safely overwinter.

In the conditions of Siberia, autumn strawberries did not show any advantages over spring planting and begin to bear fruit the next year, so I stopped growing the second layer for autumn planting refused.

How to plant strawberry seeds

To better understand what is at stake, watch the five-minute video filmed for this article, where I sow strawberries for seedlings.

We fill the pot or cup with earth, to a height of one cm from the top edge. Lightly tamp and water thoroughly. Water for irrigation use settled, room temperature.

The land can be either ready-made soil from the store, or from your own garden. The main condition is that the earth is loose and homogeneous.

Pour dry strawberry seeds onto a moistened surface. As necessary, after, spread the seeds evenly over the surface with a toothpick.

It is strongly not recommended to water, bury, deepen or sprinkle with soil immediately after planting. The plant will take root on its own, and watering at first will only wash away the seeds.

To create a microclimate, the pots are covered cling film. Condensation will form on the surface of the film in the morning and evening. This is how natural hydration occurs. The film should be removed only after the appearance of the first shoots.

In the video, I showed how to wrap cling film around the pots, it is much more convenient to fix the film on the pot by pulling an elastic band for money on top.

Make sure that the earth does not dry out, if natural moisture is not enough, lift the film and gently pour it without pressure so that the seeds and the earth are not washed away with water. Excessive moisture is also detrimental to strawberries.

How long does it take for strawberry seeds to germinate?

Strawberries were planted on February 21st and the seedlings did not take long to wait, ten days later, on March 3rd, the first green shoots appeared under the film. Seeds sprouted unevenly, the last shoots were at the end of April, two months after planting.

Seedlings are easily mistaken for weed grass. Cotyledon leaves do not look like the usual tridents of adult seedlings.

The leaders of the informal competition were the varieties "Sweet Tooth F1" from Aelita and "Nastenka F1" from Sedek. Strawberry seeds "Aroma of Summer" and "Kyrgyzka" did not let the greens go, but the roots have already begun to hatch.

Each variety of large-fruited remontant strawberries hatched. "Aroma of Summer" has a germination rate of 100 percent, all 4 grains that were in the capsule of the seed package sprouted. The fact that the variety breeds with a mustache is encouraging. Varieties "Sweet tooth" and "Nastenka" partially ascended, "Kyrgyzka" - amicably ascended

The variety "Kyrgyzka" does not exist, I called strawberries that way, because the berry from which I picked the seeds was bought last summer at the market from a Kyrgyz woman.

After the seeds have sprouted, caring for the strawberries consists in daily airing the seedlings, and the film is removed from the pots for a day. In the evening, the film is returned to its place until the morning. Ten days later, on March 13th, I completely removed the film so that the plant stems would not rot due to high humidity.

Every plant needs light to grow, and strawberries are no exception. Agronomists recommend 16 hours of daylight, which is achieved by backlighting with phytolamps. Phytolamps are sold in specialized stores and online stores.

The first years I did not have phytolamps, seedlings also grew. Without illumination, it is recommended to sow later for a couple of weeks, when daylight hours increase.

Second required condition This is soil moisture control. The soil must not be allowed to dry out. Water the soil carefully, drop by drop, so as not to damage young plants with pressure.

For these purposes, a pipette or a rubber pear from a pharmacy is suitable. I myself water with a garden sprayer, in which there is no pressure and the water barely drips.

When to dive strawberries

Dive seedlings of strawberries when 2-3 real leaves of a jagged shape grow. Seeds do not germinate evenly, so picking is carried out as the seedlings grow.

It is watered the day before the pick, so that the soil dries up and the strawberries can be dug up and removed along with a clod of earth. The root system during this period is poorly developed and easily damaged, so when transplanting, try not to expose the roots.

Strawberries dive twice. First time in small volume cassettes. In a month, the roots will grow, and the second time they are transplanted into half-liter pots. If you immediately plant in large containers, then the roots will not have time to master the entire space, moisture will stagnate in the ground and the plants will begin to rot.

In order not to confuse where which variety grows, I glue strips of adhesive tape on the pots, on which I sign the name of the strawberry.

When picking seedlings of strawberries and planting in a permanent place, make sure not to fall asleep with the ground at the growth point - the middle of the plant, from where the leaves diverge to the sides. Otherwise, the plant will die.

Video clip of how I dive seedlings of strawberries:

Soil and pots for growing strawberries

I used to use plastic sour cream cups and disposable cups. This year, for strawberries, I purchased reusable containers with a squeezed bottom and a common tray. Now I immediately put a pallet with ten pots on the racks and window sills.

The difference between pots and disposable cups is ease of care. He pulled out the pallet with the plants for quick watering, then turned it around so that the seedlings that were in the shade on the edge of the window sill were at the window in the light.

Cups from the set have drainage holes. When the seedlings have grown, for quick watering I pour water immediately into the pan with cups, to a level of 1 cm. The earth absorbs moisture well.

If you use disposable cups, then before planting, pierce the bottom with them (with an awl, needle) for drainage so that excess water does not stagnate.

According to my observations, strawberries planted in a 0.5 liter cup grow 2-3 times larger than their counterpart in a 0.2 liter cup. Strawberries in 0.1l cups stopped growing until they were transplanted into a larger container.

I did not notice the difference between the finished soil and garden soil. The strawberries grew the same. The choice depends on your personal preferences, which is more convenient to prepare soil in the fall or go to the store in winter.

In the northern regions, garden soil is disinfected by low temperatures, the soil is left in bags in the street from autumn until the end of Epiphany frosts. Two weeks before planting, the bags are brought into the house so that the earth warms up.

Personally, I liked using purchased soil more. Shop soil is already ready for planting and does not require additional manipulations for disinfection and fertilization.

Growing strawberries in peat tablets

A year has passed since the publication of this note, strawberries in the garden have taken root by 100%, and summing up the season, I want to say that the sweetest berry is the Flavor of Summer F1 variety.

I like to grow large-fruited varieties of strawberries. This February, 2020, I again bought the seeds of the Aroma of Summer hybrids from Gavrish, Pink Dream from Sedek (the Pink Dream strawberry variety is new to me, I have not grown it before) and decided to conduct an experiment - to grow seedlings in peat tablets.

For the purity of the experiment, in order to determine which method is better, I will sow part of the seeds from each package in the usual way, as described above.

As strawberries grow in peat tablets, I will regularly talk about the progress of the experiment in this post. If you want to be in the know - bookmark the page and update every week.

• February 23, 2020, seeding

I bought two mini-greenhouses with a pallet, a lid, a cassette block for 12 cells and peat tablets, in Novosibirsk the price range is 50-55 rubles for one greenhouse. According to the instructions on the package, I filled the cassettes with water, and waited until the water was absorbed.

After 30 minutes, I unpacked the packages with seeds and immediately placed them in the center of the peat tablets, deepening literally half a millimeter and closed them with a transparent lid. Much more convenient than covering with cling film, as I did that year. I did not sow thickly - one cell, one cell

Gavrish was pleased this time, the capsule from the Aroma of Summer package contained 8 seeds and the second 7 instead of four standard grains.

• March 03, 2020, strawberries have sprouted, but not all yet

10 days have passed and the first shoots of strawberries appeared, there is no difference in germination time in comparison with sowing in the soil, and on the tenth day the strawberries begin to sprout.

Now in the afternoon I open greenhouses for ventilation for several hours and turn on the backlight with a phytolamp. Temperature regime I don’t specifically regulate it, the thermometer on the windowsill shows 23 degrees.

• March 04, first watering

Strawberries are poured with settled water at room temperature, so as not to wash away the peat and seedling roots, I water with a teaspoon. One teaspoon of water at the edge of the cell, so you do not damage the strawberries growing in the center of the cassette.

Peat tablets contain enough nutrients necessary for the growth of seedlings, so strawberries do not need additional feeding.

Early May, care in the garden

Last year, the beginning of May turned out to be warm and I went to the garden to check my plantings. That year, I grew from seeds two varieties of remontant strawberries - "Irishka" and "Lizonka" from the agricultural company "SeDek"

Both varieties overwintered well, without additional shelters. Let me remind you that I grow strawberries in Western Siberia. Bushes planted in spring have grown well in a year. Seedlings planted in autumn are all rooted, but the bushes are not large in size, compared to those that are six months older.

"Irishka" - a beardless variety, cut off old dry leaves and stalks with scissors. "Lizonka" - a mustachioed variety, I left only the children of the first order, the closest to the parent bush. All the same, the children grew up on two more of the same beds. He quickly dug up a bed, dug up the children of strawberries with soil with a garden shovel - and to a new place of residence.

In size, the children were not inferior to the mother bush, they have a powerful, well-developed root system. It is recommended to leave the very first shoots from the mother bush, because degeneration begins on the children of the second and third order and the properties of the mother bush are lost.

After a well shed landing, old and new. 5 liters of water per bush. Strawberries now need moisture, because the bushes begin to lay the future crop.

By May 5th, flower stalks began to appear on both varieties. If you compare the berries of "Irishka" and "Lizonka" with each other, then the berries of "Lizonka" are dark red, denser and two times larger than those of "Irishka".

The most important difference made by my son, "Lizonka" gives sweet juicy berries, the "Irishka" variety gives smaller and Pink colour with sourness. In this connection, Kirill abandoned the variety "Irishka", saying that it was necessary to plant "Lizonka"

I don't like weeding, and secondly, I'm just too lazy to do it. I tried to solve the problem of weeds in strawberries in two ways - I treated one area with herbicides, on the second I carefully weeded everything and covered it with sawdust. Pine, 4-5 cm layer. I poured gently under the leaves and around, so as not to fall asleep at the growing point. Sawdust - where wood is cut into boards, distributed free of charge.

In the spring, the area treated with herbicides is all green, there is nowhere to go from the grass. You can’t even see strawberry bushes, everything is overgrown. The area covered with sawdust is clean, a few dandelions made their way, which I quickly pulled out.

My mistake was too frequent landing. The overgrown bushes became crowded and there was not enough space for ventilation. This time I planted a berry in the garden in two lines, alternating in a checkerboard pattern.

Is it possible to plant strawberries of different varieties nearby on neighboring beds?

When I was just gaining experience in growing large-fruited garden strawberries, on the Internet on large sites I came across the opinion that different varieties of strawberries should not be planted next to each other.

The main argument was that the bees would pollinate different varieties of berries, which would negatively affect the harvest. All plantings will lose their varietal characteristics.

Interested in this theory of cross-pollination, I turned to local beekeepers with the question of how far bees fly. It turns out that the departure of a bee from the hive is up to 5 km, during the honey collection, the bees collect pollen at a distance of up to three kilometers.

It turns out that in order to avoid cross-pollination, different varieties need to be planted at a distance of 3 kilometers from each other. Who can afford a three-kilometer-wide aisle in a vegetable garden?!

Strawberry is a bee pollinated plant. No bees - no harvest. I'm on the edges of the garden, literally square meter I sow the land with honey plant - phacelia. Sowed in three terms. Phacelia also bloomed in three terms. And all summer my beds buzzed from bees and bumblebees.

Whether there was cross-pollination or not - I don’t know, but different varieties in neighboring beds did not affect each other in any way.

And my main counterargument in favor of the proximity of different varieties of strawberries is that we plant HYBRIDS. Letter designation"F1" on the seed package means it's a hybrid. Seeds from the resulting crop will not have the properties of the parent bush. It doesn't matter if it was over-pollinated or not.

With a neighbor whom I talked about at the beginning of the article, we went to the store together, bought land and seeds from the same counter. I told him for an hour, the information that you read above.

However, on the same evening, a neighbor called me, it turns out that I am growing strawberries incorrectly. He read on the Internet as needed, and now his harvest will be trampled.

And I planted the seeds in my own way. My strawberries grew quickly, and in the very first summer they brought a harvest. The neighbor waited until autumn and gave up - not a single seed sprouted.

It became interesting to me what a neighbor found about strawberries on the Internet. It turned out that I don’t do a lot of things, from what my neighbor did:

• did not put the seeds in the refrigerator
• did not germinate the seeds
• did not cover the surface of the earth with a layer of snow
• did not spread the seeds on the snow
• did not sprinkle snow with seeds with a layer of sand

As practice shows, strawberries grow well without all these dances with tambourines. It is recommended to cover with snow so that the seeds can be better seen and what exactly happens in nature. But the seeds differ from the soil in color, and in nature, garden strawberries do not grow.

Another popular, but very harmful advice is the instructions for self-harvesting seeds. I have harvested the seeds myself several times. It is not difficult and the germination is good. Only an incomprehensible grass grows, very powerful and without berries.

"Kyrgyzka" is my last experience, I will not spend more time and effort on my strawberry seeds. It's a shame that the "Kyrgyz" I have grown twice from cheap store-bought seeds.

Miracle buttocks fabulous collection - scam

In conclusion, I want to warn you about one popular way to deceive gullible gardeners.

For interest, I called the contact number of the miracle of the buttocks. The girl assured me that Academician Sakharov made this discovery in his research, for which he received the Nobel Prize.

High yields are due to the top-secret soil from the jungle of the wild Amazon. People are greedy for freebies, and despite the delusional nature of such statements, they send their money to pay for this very buttock.

I told how to germinate the seeds in two months, and in the second year to collect 1.5 kg of berries from the bush. Owners of a domestic buttock are "guaranteed" a yield of 5 kg per bush every two weeks starting from the second month after planting.

Spending a lot of time exploring the site Russian Academy sciences, I have not met any mention of Academician Sakharov anywhere. Among the Nobel laureates, too, there was no such surname or merit.

Do not be fooled by such offers - a fabulous collection of homemade miracle buttocks is a common deception and a money scam

I am very interested to know how you grow strawberries, which varieties you like best and what difficulties you face. I would be grateful to everyone who will share their results in the comments.

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Thank you for your attention, Alexander Utyshev gardened with you

Most summer residents grow strawberries in the traditional way - using ready-made seedlings or rooting tendrils. This method is simple, fast and understandable even for beginners. But experienced gardeners have long noticed that strawberry bushes purchased on the market in practice turn out to be a completely different variety. Until you harvest, you will not notice such a substitution. So how do you grow exactly the varieties you want? You need to master the propagation of strawberries by seeds. You will get guaranteed results and a great experience. Pay attention, this breeding technique is universal: from now on you will have both strawberries and strawberries from seeds at home.

Varieties

Not every seeded strawberry produces a great harvest. In order not to experiment, it is recommended to initially give preference to those varieties that are unpretentious during germination and easily tolerate planting from pots in open ground.

1. Diamond. This variety is very fond of gardeners for resistance to diseases - pests, fungi, viruses. Although the fruits are not large, the variety has a very high yield: it is possible to collect 2 kg of strawberries from one bush. Compact berries are well stored, juicy, elastic.
2. Ducat. Another high yielding variety. Ideal for early planting of seedlings, as it is not afraid of night frosts in spring. The berries are medium, regular elongated shape.
3. Queen Elizabeth II. This variety is truly the queen of our gardens. An ideal strawberry for most regions of our country. Very resistant to frost and pests. The variety is remontant, always gives a generous harvest. The berries are large and very sweet. Queen Elizabeth II is considered one of the most successful and popular varieties for growing strawberries from seed.
4. Clery. On our summer cottages this Italian variety appeared not so long ago, but has already won popular love. From berries it is possible to collect very quality seeds. Clery strawberries are rarely susceptible to rot and other diseases. But since the plants come from Italy, that is, this variety has a significant minus: it is not frost-resistant. Therefore, Clery is massively grown by summer residents of the southern regions.
5. Olivia. This variety is suitable for summer residents who have poor land and unfavorable conditions for locating a land plot. The yield of the variety is average, but this is offset by the extraordinary persistence of Olivia: this strawberry tolerates cold, dry summers very well and at the same time is easily grown from seeds.
6. Kent. Another popular variety. The taste of the berries is delicate, the fruits of the variety are juicy and large. Kent is famous for its unpretentiousness. Kent has a good resemblance.

Sowing dates

Have you clearly decided that strawberries from seeds will appear on your plantation? cultivation, country tricks will help you understand this process in detail. Experienced summer residents know that in this case it is extremely important to correctly guess with the sowing dates. This is the key to a high yield. If you want to grow seedlings from seeds for the purpose of selling, then sowing should be done in the middle or in the last decade of February. Seedlings must necessarily grow with artificial lighting. But summer residents note that in the future this affects the intensity of strawberry growth. Such seedlings are less resistant to drought and viral diseases. Therefore, if you grow strawberries for yourself, then seedlings should grow without artificial lighting. And this means that the ideal time for sowing seeds is from March 5 to March 10. If you sow earlier, the seedlings will die due to lack of natural light.

Seed collection

Ready-made seeds can easily be bought at any gardening store. But, firstly, you cannot be 100% sure of the quality of these seeds. Often their similarity is very low, many seeds are not viable. Secondly, as with purchased seedlings, you run the risk of growing from seeds not at all the variety that is withered on the package. And since you have decided to master the cultivation of strawberries from seeds at home, then take part in this process at all its stages.

How to get strawberry seeds from a berry? You need to get seeds from well-developed, healthy, strong strawberry or strawberry bushes.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Take 4-5 ripe large berries
2. Cut off the nose of the berry with a knife - underdeveloped seeds are collected here
3. From the rest of the berry, cut off the layer of pulp with a knife along with the seeds.
4. Spread evenly on paper towel
5. Send the berries and seeds to dry in a warm, dry place, but not in direct sunlight.
6. When the pulp is completely dry, grind it in your palms, separating the seeds
7. Place the peeled dry seeds in a glass storage container

Once you've learned how to harvest seeds from strawberries, it's also important to store them properly. Seeds should not be allowed to freeze, but too heat they don't fit either.

The optimal storage mode is from 5 to 15 degrees Celsius. Moisture and sunlight should not get into the jar.

Seed preparation

Another important trick experienced summer residents is the process of seed stratification. In other words, the seeds need to be hardened. A month before the planned sowing, you need to take a wet cotton pad, place the seeds on it, and cover it with the same wet disk on top.

Using a needle or toothpick, make through holes so that the seeds can breathe and do not rot. Place the container with seeds in a warm room for 48 hours. Then refrigerate for the next 4 weeks. Control the moisture content of the cotton pads, they should not dry out.

After 1 month, the seeds need to be removed from the refrigerator and dried a little. Now they are ready for planting in the ground for seedlings.

Soil preparation

Strawberries are a very demanding crop in terms of the quality of the substrate. The earth should be light, loose, crumbly. But without any organic fertilizers or mineral supplements. You can buy ready-made clean substrate in bags. You need a versatile potting soil designed to grow seedlings of any kind. If you use the land taken in the garden, then it must be disinfected. First, prepare the right soil mixture. You need to take forest or garden soil and add sand to it in a ratio of 3: 1.

As soon as the earth from the cold street is transferred to a warm room, numerous pests become active in it. There is a risk of infecting young sprouts. There are several options for cleaning the substrate. The simplest is to pour plenty of boiling water on the ground 14 days before planting the seeds. The second option is to heat the earth in the oven for 20 minutes at a temperature of 100 degrees.

When you disinfect the substrate, both harmful and beneficial microorganisms will die in it. Leave the soil in a warm room for 2 weeks so that beneficial bacteria re-populate it. And only after that you can carry out sowing. Please note that the soil already needs to be prepared at the moment when the seeds are stratified and lie in the refrigerator.

Sowing seeds

Planting strawberries with seeds for seedlings requires initially deciding in which containers to sow the seeds. Two options are suitable for strawberries - this is sowing in containers or in peat tablets. We will look at both of these methods in detail.

To containers

Once the seeds have lain in the refrigerator for 4 weeks, they can immediately be sown in containers. For convenience, take one large container.

Fill the container with pre-prepared and heated earth. Lightly tamp the soil with your hands. It is not necessary to water it abundantly - it is enough to moisten it thoroughly with a spray bottle. Now it is important to carefully, evenly transfer and distribute the seeds. Their size is very small, so it is best to work with tweezers. Gently press the seeds to the ground, but do not sprinkle the substrate on top. Strawberry seeds germinate well in the light.

Now the container must be covered with a lid and placed in a warm, well-lit place. If your container was sold with a lid without ventilation holes, then you need to do them yourself. They are needed for natural ventilation, as well as lighting.

It is important that direct sunlight does not fall on it. Seeds dry out quickly, do not have time to germinate and die. The first 3-4 days you can not open the lid. Under it, an ideal microclimate was created for the germination of seeds. Condensation collects on the lid, it flows down to the surface of the substrate and optimally moistens the soil.

Ideally, buy a container with a transparent lid. You can control the level of moisture: if there are few drops, you need to spray the soil with a spray gun. If the entire lid is wet, often dripping from it, open the container for ventilation.

In peat tablets

You can purchase ready-made peat tablets-glasses and plant 1-2 seeds in each of them.

Important! You need to transfer seeds that have already hatched into tablets. To do this, the seeds are taken from the refrigerator to a warm room, the air temperature in which is not lower than 20 degrees. Within 1-2 days, the seeds will begin to germinate. They are transferred to peat tablets. How to transfer?

First, moisten the peat tablets well, let the excess water drain. Transfer the seeds with tweezers, slightly pressing to the ground. Place peat tablets on a pallet, and cover with a film or lid on top. As with the container, keep an eye on the humidity levels.

Seedling picking

How to grow strawberries from seeds at home after the sprouts start growing? As soon as your seedlings start laying 3 full-fledged leaves, the plants need to be transplanted into separate containers - one copy in a small glass. The dimensions of the container should be somewhere around 8x8 cm. The height is also 8-10 cm. You can buy ready-made plastic pots in gardening stores, but you can also use the usual containers from yogurt and sour cream.

At the bottom of the cups, be sure to lay out the drainage. These are small pebbles, river sand, crushed walnut or eggshell. Pour soil on top. Water the soil generously, make a small indentation and carefully transfer the strawberries. Sprouts should not be buried deep. Press down a little on the ground. No more watering the seedlings on this day.

Diving is a very important process. It cannot be ignored. Inexperienced summer residents often plant grown plants already in open ground, without first transplanting them into individual containers.

What gives a dive?

• Stimulates the development of a powerful root system, especially the laying of lateral roots.
• Due to picking in the container, there is no interlacing of adjacent roots, which are then injured when planting in open ground.
• When the germination rate is 100th, then the strongest sprouts can be selected and transplanted.
• Picking protects against diseases that will be transmitted to all sprouts.

Care

• A common problem is the thin stems of the seedlings, which, under the weight of the leaves, fall to the ground. Often these sprouts die. To prevent this from happening, you need to add a little earth, to give the plants the opportunity to take root better.
• Water gently - with a large spoon or spray with a spray bottle. A jet of water from a watering can exposes the roots, which leads to poor development of seedlings.
• If you notice a white, green mold on the surface of the earth, then remove the affected areas of the soil with a match. Let the soil dry out, do not water for the next 2-3 days. In the case when this problem recurs regularly, you can treat the soil with a solution of a special antifungal drug. These products are universal, sold in any gardening store.
• Change the arrangement of pots with seedlings every 2 days. The stems of the sprouts will always reach for the light source. To keep the stems even and strong, the cups need to be scrolled in the opposite direction.
• From mid-April, seedlings need to be hardened off. Take out the pots during the day on the balcony or veranda. When the night temperature stabilizes and does not fall below 5 degrees, you can leave the seedlings all night.
• Strawberry seedlings can be planted in open ground from May 25 to June 5.

As practice shows, propagation of strawberries by seeds is a troublesome process. But this is only the first time. Take into account all the tips and nuances. If you strictly follow all the recommendations, you will be able to harvest an excellent harvest.

To get garden strawberries from seeds, you have to painstakingly care for the planting plant. Some gardeners do not see the point in such troubles, since it takes a long time to wait for seedlings to germinate, many do not germinate, and the sprouts appear fragile and small, so the picking has to be done with tweezers. It is necessary to monitor the seedling soil: it can not be waterlogged and overdried. And yet such work brings its significant results. You will learn about this and about the recommendations of experienced gardeners on our page.

So, why grow strawberries from seeds at home? In order to improve the already grown berry on the site, that is, to rid it of viral diseases, as well as to propagate new varieties of culture. Strawberries should be remontant (alpine) and small-fruited varieties, then it will be easier to grow healthy seedlings - it is not as capricious as. You can proceed to breeding large-fruited varieties after gaining experience in growing, for example, varieties such as Rembol - it is difficult to propagate with a mustache or Waitsou - the bushes do not have a mustache, they are propagated by seeds or dividing the bush. Strawberry seeds can repeat parental qualities in new seedlings.

It is more difficult to grow strawberries from seeds at home - this should be done by breeders, but every summer resident can try. Although strawberries from seeds do not replicate maternal qualities, it is possible to create a new healthy variety, and all efforts will not be in vain.

Among the popular varieties Rembol and Whitesow strawberries are in demand. Bloom and bear fruit holiday season there will be strawberry

Note!

Do not buy seeds, it is better to grow your own. There is no point in collecting seeds from hybrid strawberries, as well as acquiring them, since they do not repeat maternal qualities. On the packaging they are marked with the letter F1.

Large-grade strawberries from seeds at home are grown in the same way as strawberries. You need to choose several varieties for growing in your climatic region, although each of them will require individual care. Varieties must be adapted to the soil of the garden plot.

Resistant to cold, pests and diseases, strawberry seedlings can grow from seeds at home, if you sow the culture of the following varieties: Bogota, Dawn, Mount Everest, Mashenka, Queen Elizabeth, Festivalnaya. Of these, sour varieties are: Bogota, Zarya, Mount Everest, sweet varieties - Mashenka, Queen Elizabeth and Festivalnaya. Strawberries of Annapolis, Gigantella, Regina and Fragola varieties are popular.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

If it is possible to illuminate the sprouts with a lamp, then seeds can be sown already in December, if this is not possible, then in March - early April. Seedlings of strawberries from seeds germinate exclusively during daylight hours or when illuminated for 12-14 hours.

Important!

Seeds do not need to be soaked if they are fresh. If the expiration date has expired, then you will need a growth stimulator to soak the seeds.

Soil preparation

The earth should be light and permeable, so it is sieved through a sieve. You can choose one of the following mix options (in parts):

• No. 1: garden soil - 3, humus or compost - 3, wood ash - ½;
• No. 2: vermiculite - 4, peat and sand - 3 each.
• No. 3: coconut fiber + humus or biohumus - 1 each.
• No. 4: humus - 5, sand - 3;
• No. 5: sod land - 2, sand + peat - 1 each.
• No. 6: sand - 3, garden soil + humus - 1 each.

Advice!

For disinfection, the soil must be calcined or frozen or poured with pink potassium permanganate. If you use small peat tablets, after soaking they will turn into a column of peat, 10 times higher than the original size.

Seedling containers

For sowing seeds, a mini-greenhouse is prepared, into which the selected soil is poured. IN plastic containers there should be a lid and holes in the bottom for drainage. The plastic must be transparent so that the fungus does not spread in the container. When using disinfected peat tablets, the inside of the container is only wiped with potassium permanganate. If the container is filled with a soil mixture, then the edges of the walls are 2-3 cm in size. The earth is slightly moistened, leveled so that the seeds do not go deep into it. Many make beds and sow planting material on them, then distribute it over the container with a toothpick.

Snow is poured on top instead of earth, the container is closed with a lid and put in the refrigerator for 2 weeks, although some gardeners keep the container cool for only 4 days. The snow will gradually melt and go into the soil, followed by the seeds. This process is called stratification. Gardeners do not like it, but it is necessary for the plant, as close to natural, natural conditions for growth are created. First, the seeds "sleep", and special substances prevent their germination before the favorable period comes. It is stratification that helps the seed to come out of hibernation and begin to grow. If there is no snow for the container, then the seeds can be kept in the refrigerator in a damp cloth, and only then sown in the ground.

After stratification, the mini-container can be placed on the windowsill without opening the lid for 2-3-4 days, as there is still enough moisture for sprouts. Do not forget about additional lighting. Then the lid is gradually opened, as the strawberries will start to grow in 10-15 or 30 days, cotyledon leaves and roots will appear. The lid is opened first for an hour, then for two, and so on, so that the seedlings are stable and do not fall, and also so that moisture does not quickly evaporate.

seedling care

Until the first three true leaves appear, top dressing is not carried out. Humidity in the container, not waterlogged soil, is the key to growing strawberries from seed. The lid helps maintain the humidity level. The lid is a little fogged up - everything is fine. If it collects condensate in the form of drops, then the soil contains a lot of water. Then the seedlings should be aired. The dry cover shows that it is necessary to water the seedlings.

Watering itself must be done carefully: with a fine-spray sprayer or drip onto the walls of the container from a medical syringe. It is recommended to take melted water. To disinfect the earth from dormant fungi, Fitosporin is diluted in water according to the instructions.

With the emergence of seedlings, the lid of the container is no longer closed. When 2-3 true leaves appear carry out a pick, distributing the sprouts with tweezers into separate cups. You need to be extremely careful, because you can easily damage a tiny fragile plant with a stem as thin as a blade of grass.

In the process of picking, it is necessary to monitor the root so that it does not bend up. To do this, you can make a recess in the ground with a stick. The sprout is planted at the same depth as in the container. After adaptation in a new place, the earth is filled up to the level of the cotyledon leaves, leaving the growth point free. When a long and thin stalk is covered with earth, additional roots will appear from it.

How long does a strawberry grow from seed? It germinates almost the same way as strawberries. Another way to grow both crops is that the sprouts simply spud, that is, they rake up the soil, filling the stem. The growth point and leaves remain above the ground. In this case, picking is carried out later, after the appearance of 3-4 pairs of true leaves. The seedlings will then be stronger, but the roots may intertwine. Then they are gently washed with water and a fork is used to unravel.

Note!

After planting the sprouts, you need to constantly monitor the level of humidity, harden the seedlings on the balconies at positive temperatures. Feeding seedlings before planting in the ground is not carried out.

Planting seedlings in the ground

As soon as the frosts pass, the positive temperature is established, the seedlings are planted in the prepared soil in the garden. Do not forget about hardening seedlings. In April, the containers are kept in a cool place for an hour, then for two hours, and after 7 days - all night at a temperature of 5-7 ° C. In late May and early June, seedlings are buried in the ground in prepared pits.

Some shoots may already be with flowers, they are pinched off so that the plant adapts better. Therefore, strawberries or strawberries from seeds at home in the first season may not give a large harvest, but next year the berries will certainly appear in large quantities. The roots of seedlings are treated from pests with a saline solution with copper sulphate.

The beds for seedlings are not located in the lowland, so that it does not suffer from drafts. Wet areas with high groundwater levels are also not suitable. With one-sided planting, the beds are placed at a distance of 60-80 cm, and the plants are buried at a distance of 25 cm from each other. With a two-line planting, the distance between the beds is also 60-80 cm, and between plants it should be up to 40 cm. For weak bushes, the distance is reduced.

Important!

The roots of the sprout should not be bent, they are buried vertically. The apical kidney is placed on the surface of the earth. A recess is made around the sprout and water is poured up to 500 ml, then mulch is laid out from straw or sawdust, compost or humus.

A good harvest is always guaranteed if strawberries or strawberries grow in one place for no more than 3 years.

Some amateur gardeners are wondering how to grow strawberries from seeds, which in general requires certain knowledge, without which you will never get a crop.

In today's article, we will provide the information needed to grow strawberries from seeds, which will be useful to both beginners and experienced gardeners who decide to test their skills in a new path.

It is best to plant strawberry seeds in late February or early March. Some gardeners plant seeds in late December, which is important for areas with a colder climate. Planting seeds at this time will allow the seedlings to get stronger enough for further transplantation into open ground.

Moreover, if you plan to spend the whole summer on suburban area, you can plant strawberry seeds in May or June, but in this case, planting seedlings in open ground will take place in the hot summer months, which will require additional care in the form of timely shading and more frequent watering.

Plant strawberry seeds in more late dates we do not recommend, since the seedlings will have to be kept at home until the next season, which is not suitable for all people.

Selection and processing of planting material

Having dealt with the timing of planting seeds at home, you should proceed to the direct selection of these same seeds.

To do right choice check out the following list:

1. Before purchasing seeds, check with the seller if it is possible to grow them in the conditions of your site (the type of soil on your site). The vast majority of strawberry varieties grow well and develop in soils of any type, but there are exceptions that you need to know about before planting seeds of a dubious variety;
2. Choose varieties that are best suited for climatic conditions your region. In addition, there are varieties resistant to certain diseases, but with a smaller yield, as well as varieties with a larger yield, but susceptible to disease. Based on this, you should choose exactly the sort of strawberry that is right for you in these matters;
3. Decide in what position you will grow strawberries. Modern varieties have both horizontally and vertically growing specimens;
4. Decide on the final taste of the berry itself, which can be sweet, tart, sour, as well as banana and pineapple.

The most popular strawberry varieties in the CIS countries are the following samples:

1. Gigantella;
2. Masha;
3. Victoria;
4. Gum;
5. Anapolis;
6. Camarosa;
7. Regina;
8. Fragor.

Strawberry seeds should be purchased at flower shops, or from trusted breeders of this crop. Often the seeds from such suppliers are of high quality, as well as good germination. Before planting seeds, all damaged, underdeveloped and abnormal appearance samples.

We do not recommend using store-bought strawberry seeds for human consumption, as there is no reliable information as to what kind of variety or hybrid it is, whether it will suit your growing conditions, and whether its seeds will bear fruit.

Having decided on the criteria for selecting seeds, you should talk about their direct preparation, which consists in observing the following points:

1. To improve and accelerate germination, the seeds should be soaked in melted or rain water for 2-3 days.
2. Soaked seeds are laid out on a damp cloth and placed in a plastic bag. The bag is placed in a warm and bright place, while avoiding direct sunlight, and remains there until the seeds sprout. Check the fabric periodically and moisten it.
3. If desired, before soaking the seeds, they can be treated with phytosporin, which will protect them from possible fungal and bacterial invasions that may occur when planting in open ground.
4. Seeds germinate at a temperature of + 27-30 degrees. Seedlings are kept at a temperature of + 25-27 degrees.

The use of growth activators in the germination of strawberry seeds is not relevant, since the culture has good germination.

For experienced gardeners, seeds can be germinated using the stratification method, when the container with the sown seeds is moistened, covered with cellophane, and put in the refrigerator for 3-4 weeks, then in a warm and bright place, which stimulates them to grow actively and form the strongest seedlings.

Capacity selection

It is best to plant sprouted strawberry seeds in plastic or wooden boxes, 50 cm long and 30 cm wide. Also, seeds can be planted in ordinary containers and cups, like seedlings of other plants, but this is true in cases where 2- 3 bushes of this berry, for indoor cultivation.

We recommend using the black plastic crates that fruit and vegetables are sold in at major grocery stores. A plastic film is placed at the bottom of such a box, in which drainage holes are made. The box with the film is placed on a pallet in which excess liquid will accumulate.

As for the capacity for planting already sprouted seedlings, you can use ordinary flower containers, as well as deeper plastic cups, but this only applies to seedlings that will later be transplanted into open ground.

If you plan to grow strawberries using the hydroponic method, special cardboard boxes will be an excellent purchase, ensuring the maximum planting density of this berry, and the ability to harvest the largest possible crop from the smallest possible area.

Soil preparation

The vast majority of strawberry varieties are unpretentious to the ground.

Despite this, in order to improve the rate of growth, development, and overall fruiting, it is recommended to prepare the soil in accordance with the following points:

1. Take 1 piece of sod land.
2. Take 1 part of peat.
3. Take 1 part of clean, coarse-grained river sand.
4. Mix everything until smooth.
5. Put the mass in the oven for 30 minutes, and bake it at a temperature of +150 degrees in order to destroy all microbes and fungal spores.

You can also sow seeds and grow seedlings in soil purchased at a flower shop, for which a fruit and berry soil mixture would be an excellent option.

General rules for sowing seeds

Regardless of how you grow strawberries, there are general rules planting seeds, which are listed below:

1. To obtain maximum germination, strawberry seeds should be planted in a warm room, the temperature of which does not fall below +25 degrees.
2. Planting of germinated seeds is carried out in a container with soil, to a depth of not more than 1 cm.
3. Sowing seeds should be carried out in the soil, which was previously calcined in the stove (relevant for soil taken from nature).
4. Seeds, seedlings of which will dive into open ground, should be treated with phytosporin, which will protect the root system and sprouts from infection by fungi and bacteria in the first months of growth.
5. It is better to use the seeds of hybrid species, since they are the most seed-oriented.
6. Sow exactly germinated seeds, which will increase their germination many times over, and significantly reduce the germination time.
7. You can carry out the stratification of seeds at will (not recommended for beginners).

Instructions for sowing in a container

Germinated seeds are most often planted in containers or boxes.

For proper fit seeds in these containers, adhere to the following points:

1. Take the desired container, the height of which will be at least 10 cm.
2. Treat the container with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, or wipe it with a rag soaked in alcohol. Dry the container well.
3. Place a plastic bag on the bottom of the container, and make through holes in the bag and in the container itself. In general, if the container is plastic, you can do without cellophane, but if it is wooden, in order to avoid rotting of the bottom, we recommend using a film.
4. Pour the previously prepared soil mixture into the container, the layer thickness of which should be approximately 7-8 cm.
5. Lightly compact the soil layer, and moisten it with a spray bottle.
6. Take the germinated seeds with tweezers and place them in a container on top of moistened soil.
7. Lightly press the seeds to the soil, but do not deepen, and cover them with a layer of soil, the thickness of which should not exceed 5-10 mm. If you plant unsprouted seeds, they should not be covered at all. Ungerminated seeds should be lightly pressed into the soil, and left to germinate in a bright and warm place. Space the seeds 2.4 cm apart.
8. Place the container in a bright and warm place, periodically spraying the soil with a spray bottle. If you sowed unsprouted seeds, you can cover the container with foil before the first sprouts appear. If the seeds were germinating, just moisten the soil in time, keeping it moist.

Instructions for sowing in peat tablets

Sowing seeds in peat tablets should take place in accordance with the following points:

1. Purchase peat tablets from a flower shop, which will measure approximately 2.4 cm.
2. Pour peat tablets with melt or rain water, and let them infuse for a period of 2 days.
3. After the peat tablets have increased in size, place them on a pallet or in a plastic box.
4. Make a small indentation in each of the tablets, and place one seed there, slightly pressing it into the tablet.
5. After all the seeds have settled on peat tablets, the container is covered with a plastic bag and placed on the windowsill.
6. Periodically spray peat tablets from a spray bottle, preventing them from drying out.
7. After the shoots appear, the film must be removed.
8. Keep the seedlings on the tablets until the first roots appear through it.

Remember, sowing seeds in peat tablets can be done without first germinating them. Otherwise, peat tablets will have to be left open, which will complicate the procedure for moisturizing them.

picking

If you are growing seedlings on peat tablets, after the first roots begin to appear through them, transplant them into a separate container (pots, boxes, cups) keeping a distance of 3-4 cm between the sprouts. In the case of growing in cups, for each cup planted 1 sprout. Seedlings are planted in a container with soil, the recipe for which we discussed in the middle of the article.

Seedlings are planted in open ground when they have at least 5 leaves. If you grow seedlings in the traditional way, initially using a container with soil, after the seedlings have 2-3 leaves, transplant them into larger and deeper containers, where they will grow until 5 leaves appear, after which they also pick them in an open priming.

It is necessary to dive seedlings of strawberries into pre-prepared beds, located in 2 rows, and having a distance of 30 cm between them. The depth of the beds should be equal to the depth of the container in which the seedlings grew, for example, the glass has a depth of 15 cm, respectively, the bed should have a similar depth, +-1 cm.

Carefully transfer the sprout into the prepared beds, along with earthen cake on the root system. Cover the planted seedling with earth in such a way that the surface of the seedling soil is not covered with new soil.

After the planting of the seedlings is completed, water each seedling with 0.5 liters of water diluted with an organic stimulant, such as AgriTecno Fertilizantes. After fertilizing the seedlings, the soil around them should be mulched with humus. The layer of mulch should not exceed 1 cm.

Remember, if your beds are located under straight lines sunbeams, the first few days they should be shaded in the middle of the day, so that the sprouts smoothly adapt to a new place of growth.

Aftercare

Subsequent care for seedlings transplanted into open ground comes down to the following points:

1. Carry out regular watering, at intervals of 2-3 days, depending on weather conditions.
2. Lightly loosen the surface of the soil after watering, preventing it from compacting and settling.
3. Remove weeds.
4. Treat with insecticides if necessary.

As for fertilizers, they are applied only after the first harvest. The best fertilizer for strawberries is 2 tablespoons of chicken manure diluted in 10 liters of water. Melon fertilizer is completely natural, and the berries treated with it will be absolutely safe for human consumption.

With the approach of the winter season, at the end of September, the bushes are covered with a thin layer of humus, the thickness of which does not exceed 1 cm. The beds are insulated with straw, fallen leaves or sawdust. If heavy autumn showers or heavy winds are observed in your region, you can additionally cover the strawberry bushes with a plastic bag with holes previously made in it for air circulation.

Conclusion

Based on the information in this article, it becomes clear that almost every beginner can germinate, grow and care for strawberry seeds at home, with the desire and diligence. Remember, you can sow and plant strawberries in almost any climatic zone of the CIS countries, which makes it an excellent purchase for any summer resident and gardener!

Strawberry – favorite treat in the country, the seedlings of which can be grown at home. Growing strawberries from seeds- a troublesome and long process, but as a result you will grow strong and healthy seedlings with excellent varietal qualities.

Let's consider in detail: when to sow strawberry seeds for seedlings, how to grow strawberry seedlings from seeds at home, picking strawberry seedlings.

In February, the sowing of vegetable and horticultural crops for seedlings such as peppers, eggplants, strawberries begins.

Why grow strawberries from seeds

Strawberries are often propagated using purchased seedlings or by rooting mustaches. But it happens that the purchased seedlings grow a completely different variety.

More reliable grow strawberries from your own seeds, since the seeds purchased from the seller do not always grow the promised variety.

Seeds are collected from well-developed bushes that give a large yield and are not damaged in any way. Seeds are harvested from ripe berries, their middle part and base - there they are larger, they are distinguished by good germination.

Seeds can propagate strawberries of any variety, except for hybrids.

When to sow strawberries for seedlings in 2019 according to the lunar calendar

1. February - from 6 to 16
2. March - from 7 - 20, auspicious days – 8, 14, 15
3. April - from 6 to 18, favorable days - 10, 11
4. May - from 6 to 18, favorable days - 10, 16

Terms of sowing strawberry seeds for seedlings

Sow strawberry seeds for seedlings in late February - early March. For cultivation for sale, sowing is carried out in more than early dates, but illumination of seedlings should be mandatory.

Without additional illumination, it is better not to sow seeds before March, otherwise the seedlings will die from lack of sunlight.

Preparing seeds for sowing

Before sowing, strawberry seeds must be placed in 0.5% potassium permanganate solution. After that, rinse the seeds well in clean water.

The next step will be stratification- put the seeds on wet cotton pads or cloth. List the different varieties separately. Put all the seeds in a container, close the lid and put in a dark place for 2 days.

Then send the seeds in a container to the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 2 weeks. Seeds must be regularly aired and sprinkled with water.

Let the seeds dry a little before sowing.

Sowing strawberry seeds for seedlings

Ready seeds can be sown in soil in a container, as well as in peat cups.

The soil for growing strawberry seedlings should be light, not oversaturated with fertilizers. For those who make the soil with their own hands - 2 parts of sod land and 1 part of peat and sand.

Mix all the ingredients and be sure to disinfect in the oven for 20-30 minutes at a temperature of 150 degrees.

Place the disinfected soil for 2 weeks in a warm place so that beneficial bacteria reappear in it.

Soil for seedlings put in a container, slightly compact and moisten. Spread the seeds over the surface at intervals of 3-4 cm with a damp toothpick. Do not cover the seeds with earth, they germinate in the light.

We cover the container with a transparent lid (there should be small holes for air exchange) and put it in a warm, bright place (without sunlight).

Growing strawberries in peat tablets

Peat tablets already contain all the necessary nutrients. The advantages of this method of cultivation are that the seedlings do not need to dive, the root system develops freely, the seedlings develop well.

Place peat tablets in a container, fill with water so that they increase. Spread the prepared seeds with a toothpick into tablets. Cover the container with peat tablets with a transparent lid and put in a warm place.

Ventilate the crops regularly, remove the resulting condensation from the lid so that mold does not develop. The lid is removed only after the appearance of the first true leaves.

Video - Strawberries in peat tablets

Growing strawberry seedlings at home

Crops needed keep in a warm bright place, monitor the amount of moisture in the container, ventilate at least 1 time per day. Seedlings appear after 2 weeks.

The first week the seedlings need a temperature of 23-25 ​​degrees, and after a week 15-18 so that the seedlings do not stretch.

The cover or lid is completely removed from the container only after the formation of 2 true leaves, the temperature should be at the same time 18-20 degrees.

After removing the cover, the seedlings require even more light, additional illumination may be required. Seedlings should not fall into drafts; during this period of seedling growth, the temperature is reduced to 15 degrees.

Watering strawberry seedlings

For watering, use a medical syringe or pipette, water under the root of each plant. Water should be settled, room temperature. When watering, try not to get on strawberry leaves - black spots may appear.

Watering is done early in the morning or after sunset. Strawberries are afraid of waterlogging and can be affected by a black leg - rot of the root neck of seedlings. This disease manifests itself at the stage from germination to the formation of 2 true leaves.

Illumination of strawberry seedlings

Seedling in winter period requires mandatory backlighting. For these purposes, use photolamps or LED lights, fluorescent lamps. Lighting should work for 13-14 hours, because even at 12 noon in February, the lighting is not as intense as in spring.

Install the lamp above the seedlings at a distance of 20 cm. It is also convenient to purchase a timer socket that will turn on the lighting at 6 in the morning and turn it off at 23 o'clock.