Do-it-yourself installation of iron poles. Drilling holes for fence posts: we make holes and holes with our own hands. Drilling methods, their pros and cons

The creation of holes for fence supports is considered the most time-consuming and responsible stage of construction, on which its result largely depends, appearance, strength and durability of the fence. To avoid blunders knowledge regarding the parameters of the holes for the supports and the tools used for this type of work will help.

Hole Options

Getting started, the wizard will have to perform some calculations and determine:

Number of poles

In order not to be mistaken at this stage, it is recommended to first calculate the width of the section. The value of this parameter should be a multiple of the length of the sides of the future fence and lie in the range from 2.5 to 3 meters. With smaller sections, the complexity and cost of work unnecessarily increase, with large ones, the fence will not be strong enough. Keep in mind that the higher the fence, the more often the posts are located.

For example:

• if the fence will have the shape of a regular rectangle with sides 50x25m, and its height does not exceed 2 m, then it is advisable to make sections 2.5 m wide, then a total of 60 supports are needed (4 corner + 19 on each of the long sides + 9 on each of short sides)
• if one of the sections is allocated under the gate, and the gate is part of the leaf leaf, then no additional supports are required. If the gate stands separately (the most common option), then one more support is needed for it, and there will be 61 pillars in total.

Fence hole diameter

It is always wider than the support, the only exception is when the post is driven into the ground. Typically, the size of the hole is 2-2.5 times the size of the post.

With a wider well, it will be difficult to fix the support strictly perpendicular for subsequent pouring, but the skew will definitely make itself felt in the future. In addition, too much concrete mix will be needed. With an excessively narrow hole, it will be generally impossible to perform concreting with high quality.

Hole depth

The value of this parameter depends on the characteristics of the soil on the site and on the dimensions and weight of the fence itself.

Taken into account:

• soil freezing depth: the bottom of the hole should be 10 cm deeper than this mark;
• groundwater level: it is necessary to dig a hole below this value;
• climate features, wind loads, possible snow cover weight;

Fence weight and height

For light fences, poles are dug in a third of the length (that is, for a fence 2 m high, the pole must be deepened by a meter), for heavy stone and brick fences, another 20-30 cm is added. It must also be borne in mind that crushed stone should be created at the bottom of each well pillow 10 cm thick.

Tools Used

To create holes, you need a tool that can ensure the verticality of the hole, because the slightest deviation can further lead to a distortion of the section. In addition, it is necessary to maintain the desired diameter of the hole and take care to optimize the costs of effort and finances.

regular shovel

Among the advantages is the cheapness of the tool. There are many more disadvantages: it is impossible to dig a narrow hole with a shovel, and even more so to comply with the requirement of verticality. The high labor intensity of the work should also be taken into account. For these reasons, a shovel is used only when a frame is being dug under a wide square support (for example, under a concrete pillar, which will be made using the monolithic casting method).

Motobur

Use this gas or electricity powered device to create a hole desired diameter and absolutely correct geometry is possible in just a few minutes. The rules for working with a motor drill are extremely simple: first, a hole is made with a shovel half a bayonet deep in order to remove the turf layer and mark the drilling site.

Then the engine is turned on, and the drill is put into action. It is required to hold it strictly vertically, pressing into the soil. The soil is fed up by the auger and accumulates around the hole.

Difficulties may arise when drilling on rocky ground. In order not to spoil the tool, it is necessary to work at low speeds, try to hook and lift large stones, remove the drill from the hole more often and clean it.

The only but significant drawback of a motor drill is its high cost: when it comes to building a single fence, buying a tool whose price is calculated in five figures is hardly cost-effective.

garden drill

It can be disk or screw. A disc tool is a simple device consisting of the actual drill, which is a disc curved as shown in the figure, an extension rod and a T-handle. The auger drill has a more complex design.

Due to low cost, low weight, simplicity of design and the ability to drill holes of a geometrically correct shape and the desired diameter, up to 2 meters deep, garden drill is the most popular tool for this type of work, so let's dwell on it in more detail.

Rules for working with a garden drill

Unfortunately, a builder who decides to use this device for the first time may encounter difficulties in his work, for example, with the fact that the drill does not want to fulfill his direct duties.

There may be several reasons for this:

• Too dense soil. Plain water can make it softer. It is recommended, having drilled a hole to a shallow depth, pour a bucket of water into it and wait a bit until it soaks into the soil - it will become much easier to work. You can also try to soften the ground with a crowbar.
• Master's inexperience. When working, the drill should be held strictly vertically, removed after 2-3 turns in order to remove the soil chosen by it and, if necessary, clean the cutting edge. When turning the handle, do not put excessive pressure on it, trying to speed up drilling.
• Insufficient sharpening of the drill. Sometimes factory products are sold without sharpening, and such a tool, of course, is not able to cut off a layer of earth. Sharpen yourself with a grinder or file. Please note that the chamfer is removed from the top.
• Wrong shape of the drill. This drawback is inherent in homemade disc tools, in which the drill is two semicircles welded to an extension at an angle to each other. Be sure to check its geometry: the angle between the semicircles is 30-40 degrees.

And, finally, sometimes the master simply overestimates his physical capabilities: in hardware stores you can buy a drill with a diameter of 10 to 30 cm, but the higher this parameter, the more effort will have to be spent on rotating the handle.

In addition, it will be even more difficult to work on very dense, clay soils. For this reason, experienced builders advise using a garden drill only on light, sandy soils as long as you don't need too many holes. Otherwise, it is better to rent a motor drill.

And one more tip: it is advisable to choose an auger drill or a disk drill model with an auger, which is located below the cutting planes. It will simplify the removal of the selected soil from the drilling zone and facilitate the work.

How to fix a pole

Before installation, it is necessary to protect the underground part of the support from moisture: wooden poles are burned with a blowtorch and treated with resin, metal ones are painted. Further, the prepared support is installed strictly vertically in the center of the hole on a sand or crushed stone cushion and fixed with spacers.

Concreting of the support can be done in two ways:

1. The traditional, "wet" method involves filling the space around the column with a concrete mixture, followed by its vibration.
   The method is used on sandy soils that are unable to accumulate a large amount of water.
2. If the soil in your area is clayey, like a sponge absorbing moisture, the force of frost heaving will push the pole along with the concrete sleeve. In this case, bottling is performed (“dry” concreting): that is, the space around the post is simply covered in layers with crushed stone. Each layer is carefully compacted.

Individual particles of crushed stone retain mobility relative to the support and each other, therefore, when the surrounding soil swells, they simply move, and the column remains motionless. In addition, a layer of crushed stone, working as a drain, removes moisture from the post.

The disadvantage of the method is that even with careful compaction, over time, the rubble sags, and the pillar loosens, so after a few months it is necessary to add rubble, and until then, further arrangement of the foundation is impossible.

When creating a light fence on soft, not prone to heaving, soil, it is possible to install pillars without concreting, by driving them into the ground: in this case, a small hole is made along the diameter of the support, a pillar is installed in it and hammered with a sledgehammer. The method requires great physical strength and experience.

If you are going to soften the soil with water to facilitate drilling, drill several holes at the same time: this will help to avoid downtime. Do not try to pull the garden drill out of the hole with a jerk, as this can hurt your back. It is better to swing it slightly, after which it will be possible to get the tool without any tension.

It is necessary to sharpen not only the end parts of the auger, but also the edges of the round plates: they are not directly involved in drilling, but by cutting the roots of plants, they will help to complete the work faster.

Last tip: if this is your first time doing business, try your hand at the hole for the post, located in the most inconspicuous place, and no one will notice your mistakes. And only then, having gained experience, you can start drilling the remaining wells and do the job flawlessly.

Impossible to imagine Vacation home or cottage without a fence. Whatever material it is made of, support posts are always needed for fencing. They can be made of concrete, wood, but more often developers prefer metal poles: they combine practicality and affordable price, they serve for a long time. They are easy to install on your own, knowing the basic subtleties of installation work.

Shape selection

Metal fence posts are made from ordinary steel pipes, which can have a different cross section:

• Circle;
• Rectangle;
• Square.

A pipe with a round section is the most budgetary. The length of products sold from the manufacturer is 2.5 ... 6.0 meters. Diameter of round rolled products - 57…108 mm. When choosing such supports, it is necessary to purchase stabilizing plates to make it possible and convenient to fasten the fence to the pole.

Square and rectangular pipes are more expensive, but also durable: their stiffeners provide the supports with stability under the action of loads. The wall thickness of the pipes for poles varies from 2 to 4 mm. Blanks, like round pipes, are produced in lengths of 2.5 ... 6.0 meters with minor allowances.

Rectangular and square tubes can be used under different types fences. To choose suitable size sections, select the appropriate size of the span between the supports and calculate the approximate weight of the material (fence, profiled sheet, etc.)

Pipe section, mm
	1 meter	2 meters	3 meters	4 meters	5 meters	6 meters
40×40×2	709	173	72	35	16	5
40×40×3	949	231	96	46	21	6
50×50×2	1165	286	120	61	31	14
50×50×3	1615	396	167	84	43	19
60×60×2	1714	422	180	93	50	26
60×60×3	2393	589	250	129	69	35
80×80×3	4492	1110	478	252	144	82
100×100×3	7473	1851	803	430	253	152
100×100×4	9217	2283	990	529	310	185
120×120×4	13726	3339	1484	801	487	296
140×140×4	19062	4736	2069	1125	679	429

Corrosion protection methods

Metal without protection quickly corrodes and loses strength, spoiling the appearance of fence posts. In order to prevent this phenomenon and prolong the service life metal pipe, its surface is galvanized by hot dipping in a zinc solution. The finished surface does not react with oxygen, water and chemical compounds in the air and soil.

Another way to protect the pipe in production is to cover it with polymer films. They are applied in a thin layer on the surface of the metal. This method of isolation is effective for an almost unlimited amount of time, provided that the layer is intact.

The most reliable pipes have double protection with both zinc and polymers at the same time.

Even the highest quality protective coating is not able to withstand the elements of the earth for a long time, and soon the galvanization and the polymer layer are broken, and the metal begins to oxidize. To exclude this process, the buried part of the column must be additionally isolated from the aggressive environment.

How to process metal fence posts in the ground:

• Bituminous mastic;
• Special polymeric mastic for metal processing.

The choice is small, but these products are highly effective and inexpensive. Coating is carried out at the stage of preparation for the construction of the fence. It is necessary to allow the mastic to dry before deepening the structure. Roll materials are completely inefficient, so it makes no sense to install them in a drilled hole.

Determination of pipe length

Before purchasing pipes for installing supports, it is necessary to correctly calculate their length and quantity.

The length of the pipe for driving is calculated as follows: the height of the fence + the depth of soil freezing + 20 cm. It should be noted that the length of the pipe underground must be at least 1/3 of the height of the upper part.

Example: the height of our fence is 2.0 meters. The depth of soil freezing in the region is 1.2 meters. We get: 2.0 + 1.2 + 0.2 = 3.4 meters. This length should be our blanks.

Manufacturers sell pipes of random lengths, you can purchase a blank of the nearest size - 4.0 meters and cut it off yourself or order trimming from the seller. If there is a better offer for a longer length, for example, 10.5 meters at a low price in terms of 1 segment, we can buy a pipe and cut it into 3 parts (in our case 3.4 × 3 = 10.2 meters, we suitable pipe 10.5 meters). You should focus on the price of products and the assortment offered by the seller.

The distance between the fence posts should not exceed 2.5 meters. It is necessary to plan the location of the support pipes in advance and count their number.

Installation of metal fence posts

There are several ways to install metal fence posts:

• Driving and screwing into the ground;
• butovanie support;
• Pillar concreting;
• Combined method.

The choice of installation method depends on the type of soil and the load on the supports from the fence.

Pillar driving

Under light fences on sandy soils, poles can be driven into the ground. This will require only pipes and a sledgehammer, you should also find a head for the pipe so as not to crush the sectional surface.

Work should be done with a partner. Dig a small hole in a pre-marked place. A pipe is inserted into it, then one holds the post strictly vertically, the second clogs. After every few blows, it is necessary to check the verticality of the support.

The advantage of installation by driving in is the possibility of trouble-free dismantling of the supports.

Screwing posts suitable for installation round pipes. To do this, 1-2 blades are welded to the lower end. Next, the support is screwed to a predetermined depth. This method is suitable for installing a permanent fence, since dismantling the pillars will be a very difficult task.

Butting of the support (dry concreting)

With heaving soils under light fence it is advisable to choose the installation of metal poles by bottling with large gravel and sand.

Installation algorithm:

• 1) First, corner supports and poles are mounted on which the gate and gate will be attached. For them, choose more durable pipes;
• 2) Next, install the intermediate support pipes.

How to properly dig metal fence posts:

• In the marked place, recesses are made under the supports by means of a drill. The diameter of the pits is optimally taken to be 20-40 cm, so that there is enough space for falling asleep and compacting the rubble.
• A layer of crushed stone and sand 10-15 cm is laid on the bottom of the hole.
• Install the pole, align its verticality.
• A mixture of crushed stone and sand is poured in layers into a pit of 15-20 cm, tamped and watered, each time checking the vertical of the support by level.
• When 15-20 cm remain to the surface of the earth, the top of the pit is poured with M100-M150 concrete.

When the soil is heaving, the crushed stone compensates for the pressure applied to the post and the support remains in place, the fence does not float up from the ground.

Pillar concreting

Supports are concreted for heavy fences made of profiled sheet, forged spans. The main task with this installation is to create a reliable cushion to compensate for heaving loads so that the support remains in place. all year round. In most cases concrete pillars used in the construction of a strip foundation for a fence.

Work progress:

1. They dig a trench under the foundation and in the designated places they take out the soil under the pole. The diameter of the hole can be 20-30 cm, depending on the size of the pipe section.
2. A pillow of crushed stone 10-15 cm is poured into the bottom of the pit and it is carefully compacted.
3. Set up formwork for concrete base. Its walls can be laid with roofing material, which will protect the stone from excessive wetting during service and facilitate the process of formwork removal.
4. Install the frame for concreting. To create it, use longitudinal reinforcement with a periodic section of 8-10 mm in diameter, for dressing - smooth rods with a section of 6 mm. The frame can be independent for free-standing supports and connected continuously with a strip frame if a column-strip foundation is being installed under the fence.
5. Inside the frame, a metal pole is installed on the pillow and fixed with reinforcement in a strictly vertical position.
6. Filling in progress concrete mortar M150-M200.
7. After 5-7 days, the formwork can be removed and the soil can be poured into the pit, compacting it.

Combined installation method (partial concreting)

For heaving soils, you can choose the method of partial concreting of metal poles. It, like the previous method, is suitable for both strip foundations and spot installation of pillars.

1. Dig a hole to 1/2 or 2/3 of the design depth.
2. Clog the pipe to the design mark.
3. They make a crushed stone pillow under concrete 10-15 cm.
4. Put the formwork and install the frame as in the full concreting method.
5. Pouring concrete solution.
6. After 5-7 days, the formwork is removed and the pit is covered with soil.

How to paint metal fence posts

After installation, the poles can be painted. This is a necessary measure for additional protection of the metal against corrosion.

Painting with bituminous varnish

Bituminous varnish is one of the most affordable means for metal processing.

1. The pipe must be thoroughly degreased and cleaned of contaminants. If necessary, it can be washed with soapy water, then dried thoroughly.
2. Rust is removed with a metal brush and a relief is created for reliable adhesion of the composition to the base.
3. After cleaning, the pipes should be wiped with a cloth soaked in solvent.
4. You can apply bituminous varnish. If its consistency is very thick, it is diluted with white spirit. The solution is applied with a brush in 1-2 layers.

Enamel for metal

Metal paints are made into 3 groups:

• 1) Primer enamels are independent products that combine the functions of a primer and a finishing layer. Enamels are applied on a previously degreased surface in 1-2 layers. At correct application and observance of operating conditions, the coating is able to serve for several years, protecting the metal from corrosion.
• 2) Ordinary enamels that require additional priming. The primer GF-021 is used as the base layer, which is applied to the metal in 1 layer. After drying, colored enamel is applied in 1-2 layers, depending on the desired color intensity.
• 3) Enamels for rust - modern product, which does not require priming and preliminary cleaning of the surface from rust. The composition neutralizes the centers of corrosion and protects the metal from subsequent oxidation.

All compounds are available for purchase at any building materials stores.

When erecting a fence without a foundation, the main stage is the installation of supports. It is necessary to determine in advance the depth to which they will be installed, as well as drill holes. To avoid falling pillars, it is important to learn how drilling is done.

Drill or shovel

In any case, making a hole for a fence post is much easier than drilling a well. But still, this will require some skills and abilities. You can dig holes manually or use special equipment for this. Its cost is quite high, not everyone agrees to pay rent.

Most often they use cheaper methods - they use a shovel or a hand drill. You can dig wide holes with a shovel, but you need a drill to make narrow holes. And in fact, and in another case, you will have to use physical force.

It is easier to work with a drill than with a shovel, but it is quite difficult to carry it from one place to another, since its weight is rather big. It is worth remembering that the pit alone is not enough to install the pole. It is not enough to make a hole in the ground, you also need to properly concrete the support post so that it does not loosen and bend over time.

Preparation and necessary calculations

Not a single pole can be installed without correct calculations and without correctly made holes in the ground. The location of the fence must be marked on the site even before its installation. At the same time, the installation of pillars is immediately calculated. All this should be done before purchasing all necessary materials. Dimensions are entered in the drawing.

The slightest inaccuracy can lead to serious consequences, which will be quite difficult to correct. If one pole is installed incorrectly, the entire fence may warp or fall on its side. Basics for correct installation are:

1. When making calculations, you need to correctly determine the distance between adjacent supporting pillars of the future fence. It depends on the area of ​​​​the fenced area, the weight and size of the canvas itself, which will be attached to the poles. Usually adjacent support posts are separated from each other by no more than three meters.
2. The diameter of the hole for the support must be greater than the diameter of the cross section of the column itself. However, it is better not to make the hole too wide, otherwise the soil around the post will be loose. If, on the contrary, the diameter of the hole is too small, it will not be possible to carry out concreting.
3. In order to determine the number of required holes, you need to make calculations. To do this, the length (perimeter) of the entire fence should be divided by the width of one run. This refers to the distance between adjacent pillars, on average - 250 cm. If you reduce the width, you will not be able to avoid additional financial costs, and if you make it, on the contrary, more, then the canvas will sag.
4. The distance between the posts depends on the height of the fence. The higher the fence, the shorter this distance should be.
5. You also need to pay attention to the depth of the holes. This indicator depends on the soil. The stronger the soil, the less you can make the depth of the holes. If the composition of the soil consists mainly of sand and clay, then such soil, as a rule, is considered unstable. And there should be more holes for fence posts in it. Their depth can even reach one and a half meters, while the posts, installed on more stable soils, need holes with a recess of only one meter.

However, whatever the composition of the soil, the support column must enter it at least a third of its length.

Using a shovel, garden auger and power auger

The use of a drill for digging holes

When all calculations are completed and all values ​​​​are calculated, as well as all the necessary markings are made, you can begin the main work on installing the supports. This will require suitable Building tools. Most often, a motor drill, a garden drill or an ordinary shovel are used to dig a hole. The last tool is the cheapest, but also the longest and most difficult to work with.

With a shovel, it is rarely possible to achieve the desired effect. It can dig wide holes of small depth, but if you need to make a narrow and deep hole, then a shovel will no longer help.

Be that as it may, to the merits of this a simple tool two facts apply:

1. A shovel is available in almost all personal plots.
2. To work with a shovel, neither electricity nor any other type of paid energy is needed. You just need to pick it up and start using it for its intended purpose. If it breaks, it's easy to fix.

Another tool that can be used to make holes is a garden drill. Its price is several times higher, and its mass is much larger (the device weighs almost 10 kg), but it is more convenient to work with it. With it, you can drill a hole up to two and a half meters deep.

The average diameter of the holes made with this tool is 15 cm. You can buy it at a specialized hardware store. When buying, it is important to pay attention to the sharpening of the main working part. If it is sharpened poorly, it will be possible to make holes only on chernozem or sandy soils. On rocky and clay soils, the efficiency will be significantly lower.

The easiest way is to make holes in the soil with a motor drill. With it, you can save time and physical strength, but, unfortunately, you will not be able to save money. After all, this tool will not be able to work without electricity or fuel. Also among the disadvantages is the excessive noise of this device. But he can make holes up to three meters deep, and it takes only a few minutes. The diameter of the holes being made can be different, but from 15 to 30 cm is considered optimal.

concreting

Often, when installing a fence around a private suburban area, the poles are mounted by concreting. This method is considered universal. At the same time, a hole is made in the ground, a pillar is installed vertically in it, and all the space remaining around the pillar is filled with concrete mortar.

There is an opinion that in this way, the pillars are securely fixed in place due to the high strength of concrete. However, the mixture that fills the empty space in the hole around the support post does not do its job well. After all, the soil is able to swell under the influence of low temperatures. As a result, the column can move, move outward, or even collapse.

Before concreting, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the soil on which the fence will be installed. Most often, the result of soil heaving can be detected in the spring, after the snow melts. However, sandy soil it is not subjected to heaving, and therefore this technology is quite suitable for it. But on clay soils, pillars should be installed using one of two alternative methods: bottling using crushed stone or clogging.

The last way is very simple. A small hole is made in the ground, smaller than the diameter of the post itself, and then a post is driven into this hole with a sledgehammer. To simplify the work, you can use a ladder.

Butovanie

Sketch of the support post

The bottling method is otherwise called dry concreting. It is applicable for the installation of any support - wooden, concrete or asbestos-cement. At the same time, after making a hole of the required size in the ground and leveling the post into this hole, the voids are covered with rubble. Filling the void around the pillar is not necessary immediately, but gradually.

First you need to fill in the crushed stone in one layer and compact it, then the crushed stone is already laid out in the second layer and also compacted, and so on. To simplify the work, you can use a device such as a vibrating plate. Its other name is vibronog. He will help to carry out ramming.

If there is no such device, you can make it yourself, using a trimmed log for this. One of the main advantages of dry concreting is soil drainage. Water does not flow to the base of the support, as the rubble does not allow it to do so. Poles installed by butting can stand for a long time, but still, it is possible that under the influence strong wind they loosen, and then you have to repeat the rammer.