This article will be very useful for those who are interested in woodcarving to some extent or just want to start working with woodworking. As you know, not only skills play a big role in obtaining the desired result, but also what you work with, in this case a tool. You can’t achieve results without a good tool, so in this article I will tell you how the author made a do-it-yourself joint knife. Why do it yourself, it’s all because the quality of the tool is an important factor, which currently costs a lot of money, and even more so if you have all the necessary materials, this knife can be made in a matter of minutes no worse than a factory one. As with all homemade products, before creating it, you need to decide on necessary materials and tools.

To do homemade knife-jamb necessary:
* A piece of wood, in this case, a leg from an unnecessary chair for the handle of a future knife
* Metal cutter for the cutting part
* Sheet of paper or cardboard to create a template
* Epoxy resin

Of the tools you will need:
* Hacksaw
* A pair of chisels with a straight and semicircular profile
* angle grinder or as they say Bulgarian
* Vise for clamping
* Electric drill

After all the materials and tools are available, you can start manufacturing.

Step one.
First of all, as in many other homemade products and inventions, it is necessary to make a template according to which the original part will be made. The advantage of templates is that they can be reused many times, and with their exact application, you can get completely identical parts. It will be easier to make a template from a pliable material, such as cardboard. The shape of the future handle and the main part of the knife, also referred to as the cutting one, is cut out of cardboard based on your preferences. The option that the author made is shown in the photo. The idea is good, so if you don't want to spend time thinking about the template, you can do something similar. The shape of the cutting part was adopted in the form of a scythe, so that grooves and recesses could be cut with its tip.

Step two.
Having the templates on hand, we proceed to cutting out future details on them, namely the handle and the knife blade itself. We apply templates to a wooden blank and metal, and then cut it out.

We cut out the wooden part with a hacksaw, but with a metal one you will have to tinker a little.
We will make the cutting part from an already unnecessary cutter, which must be clamped and then cut the part according to the template using a grinder. When working with a grinder, be careful and do not forget to wear glasses.

The wooden handle requires processing, so it needs to be sanded and we process the wood. The shape of the handle should fit your hand, and on its surface have smooth curves for your fingers, which will be very convenient when using. When the shape of the handle has reached the desired result, it is time to start finishing grinding, with the help of which the handle will have sufficient smoothness and streamlining of the shape.

Step three.
Now all the parts need to be connected, but for this you need to make a hole in the handle. This can be done with an electric drill, the hole should turn out a little over size the fixed part of the knife.

Step four.
It's time to assemble the knife, namely to attach the cutting part of the knife and the handle. This is done quite easily and simply, we insert the cutting part into the previously made hole on the handle and fix both parts with epoxy resin. After this procedure, the knife must be left to lie down in a warm place for a day, which will allow the epoxy to completely harden.

Step five.
The last final step will be to cover the surface of the handle with a protective layer, namely varnish, you can also impregnate the handle with a layer of oil, which will be absorbed into the pores of the wood and prevent it from spoiling.

In this article I will tell you how and from what to make a good oblique knife (knife-jamb) with your own hands. Such a knife is used for carving wood, for working with leather or other thin sheet materials.

It is known that the quality of a knife is determined by the quality of its blade. And the quality of the blade, respectively, the steel from which it is made. But where is home master take high-grade steel, hard, well-kept sharpening?! And the answer is simple - you just need to look around.

Option one Knife-jamb from a construction nail-dowel . Simply magnificent steel, which has hardness and ductility (of course, because they are hammered into concrete and do not break at the same time).

We hammer the dowel into the end of the workpiece under the handle (a piece of a handle from a shovel about 12-25 cm long is perfect).

On an emery or grinder grinder grind the hat from the sides and at an angle of 30-45 degrees to make a blade. With the help of a knife, a file of sanding paper, we cut out the handle under the arm.

Due to the fact that the blade is rather narrow, it is better to use it as a wood carving knife, although there are other uses for such a blade too.

Or an option for finer work with a pen that can be held like a writing pen

Option two Knife-jamb made of canvas from a hacksaw for metal. More precisely, its fragment, of which there are a huge number in any workshop.

The disadvantages of knives from a hacksaw blade include fragility in the transverse direction (a hardened blade breaks quite easily under improper load), in addition, the process of making a knife is more laborious. But the blade turns out to be wider, and therefore more functional than a dowel knife.

We sharpen the canvas at an angle of 60 degrees. You can grind the chamfer both from two sides, and from one. Knife-jamb with one-sided sharpening, by the way, is well suited for.

The handle can be made in two versions - simple and fast, as well as beautiful, comfortable, but complex. Simple and fast - just wrap a thicker layer of electrical tape around the handle - not very beautiful, but cheap and cheerful. And don't mind breaking.

The second option is a wooden handle. Made from two halves. You need to take either two planed boards that fit well to each other, or carefully split one (but only evenly). In one of the blanks, a groove for the blade is cut with a chisel or just a knife, they are smeared with glue, folded together and fixed (with clamps, you can wrap it tightly with a rope).

In the example shown in the photo, because the boards did not fit perfectly to each other and the adhesive connection was not very strong, I riveted them with three rivets made of aluminum wire - the third one is not visible in the photo - it is not through and goes through a hole in the canvas.

How to make wood carving knives?

On one of the forums, I came across quite intelligible material on the manufacture of carving knives, which is given below without any changes. I hope that the author of Serjant's note and the administration of this forum will not be in a complaint.

"Hello guys, it's me, Serjant, I'm writing from Flyboy's computer, because the nasty admin cut off my Internet.

So:. Let's start.

Knife first

It is called "Bogorodsky knife" (Fig. 1). Designed for both rough and fine woodworking. For rough work, it means to give the workpiece the desired shape. Approximately trim to guess the silhouette. For example, cut out a spoon. For a thin one, for example, cut fingers on a small wooden toy, cut out the muzzle of an animal, etc. Speaking of toys. This knife, got its name from the village of Bogorodskoye, Moscow region, where they cut it, which has been famous all over the world for several centuries. wooden toy. As can be seen from the figure (Fig. 1), the knife is simple in shape, and also easy to manufacture.You will need:
1. A piece of steel. The ideal option, for wood carvers, it is considered the blade of a mechanical saw (they cut rails with this saw and similar pieces of iron). Steel grade does not play a special role. What is P6, what is P9, what is P6M5, or the completely cunning R3AM3F2, is not particularly important. All of this is great stuff. These canvases are usually 1.8:2.3 mm thick. We are looking for the right size piece of canvas. You can buy a canvas on any construction market.
2. Tree. Or rather, a couple of plates of linden or birch. Exactly planed and dry. Why linden or birch? This wood is very good at absorbing sweat from the hand, which comes in during the wood carving process. But still, linden is preferable, although it is inferior to fur-deep birch. properties.
3. PVA glue or any other hardening wood glue. It is possible and epoxy resin. Glue "Moment" and the like are not suitable, they do not hold the glued seam.We sharpen the blade. We choose the dimensions of the blade and shank because of what we will do with this knife. If we roughly plan the pieces of wood, then we make the blade larger, 70-90 mm, more is possible, but not necessary. If delicate work, then smaller, 30-60 mm. Shank:. How many do not mind, so much and leave. On the shank, with the help of a sharpener or a grinder, we make a bunch of "teeth", notches, or whatever else to call them. This will serve as a good fastener in the tree. Sharpening the blade razor sharpening blade will contribute to the softness of the cut, and the blade will not get stuck in the tree. (see fig. 1). We sharpen the blade and straighten it to the state of shaving the hair (we use our own carcass)

After sharpening, we wrap the blade with paper and electrical tape so as not to cut ourselves during the installation and processing of the handle.
We apply a shank to one of the wooden plates and trace the outline of the shank with a pencil. We hollow out a groove in the plate, with a depth equal to the thickness of the blade. The blade, after being inserted into a wooden plate, should not protrude, it may even be necessary that it be slightly lower than the plane of the tree by 0.1..0.2 mm. Nothing to worry about, this gap will be filled with glue. In principle, what is shown in Fig. 2. Using the sharp tip of a knife, we apply a mesh on the glued planes of the tree, for better penetration of the glue. Boldly smear with glue, insert the blade into the groove, and press the second plate. We tighten this entire structure with clamps or clamp it in a vice until the glue dries completely. For PVA, this is usually a day.

When the glue dries, we betray the handle in an oval shape in cross section. I deliberately do not give any cross-sectional dimensions, everyone can choose for their own hand, how comfortable it will be to hold, and correctly. We carefully grind the handle, but without fanaticism, it is not necessary to grind it to the state "like a cat's:" It is also not necessary to impregnate with oil or some other muck like cyanoacrylate, let the tree nourish the sweat from the hand.

Sometimes it is useful (but not necessary) on the handle, closer to the blade (5 mm back from the edge of the handle), to file a narrow groove with a file, and wrap it with wire or thick cotton thread and soak it with glue. Make the winding not wide 10: 15 mm wide, so that the winding and the handle are flush. Such a strengthening of the structure is necessary for power work or when repairing a knife, when it is lazy to make a new handle.

It is useful to have several Bogorodsk knives, different sizes and with different sharpening angles. I personally have 5 of them.

joint knife

The name comes from the fact that the knife has a beveled blade.

Well, that's not the point:

The knife is used for cutting material, cutting veneer, trimming contours, various kinds carving, such as flat-relief geometric carving, Kudrinskaya, etc.

This knife is also called a shoe knife, but, as far as I could find out, a shoe knife is distinguished by one-sided (chisel) sharpening of the blade. Although not always. Generalth view and dimensions are shown in Fig. 3

The manufacturing technology of the knife is exactly the same as the Bogorodsky knife. The only difference is that the handle of the knife is adjusted in such a way that it is convenient to hold the knife with a reverse grip, with the blade towards you. This is the basic position of the knife in the hand.

The number of knives-jambs at the carver is also not regulated by any rules or traditions. I have 10 different ones. "

You can enlarge the images by clicking on them with the mouse or open the following links:
Bogorodsk knife
knife - joint
Source http://talks.guns.ru/forummessage/5/61314.html

The work of the master is afraid, but no matter how golden hands are, in some cases it is difficult to do without tools. So in woodcarving without good, handy tool difficult to get the desired result. Nowadays, you can buy everything, including the most best tool, but there is a small snag - finances (not everyone has the opportunity to buy) I propose to make a joint knife with my own hands.

To make a do-it-yourself knife-jamb you need:
- small beam wood, I personally used a wooden leg from an old chair for this purpose (this will be the handle for the knife)
- milling cutter;
- a pencil and a sheet of paper;
- epoxy.

Tools:
- saw on a tree (hacksaw);
- several chisels and a semicircular and even profile;
- Bulgarian;
- vice;
- electric drill.

Making a do-it-yourself joint knife step by step

Step 1
Initially, we will make a template according to which we will make a joint knife. It is best to use cardboard to make a template. We make the shape of the handle and the main cutting part of the knife as needed, depending on the needs, what exactly you will do with this knife and how it will be convenient for you. If you want, you can use a template from a photo. With this shape of the cutting part, it will be convenient for you to cut notches and grooves.

Step 2
The template is ready, let's start cutting out the handle and blade of the knife.
We cut out the wooden handle with a hacksaw, and cut the blade with a grinder according to the template from the old cutter, having previously clamped it well. Don't forget to follow the safety rules.

After the handle is cut out, it must be thoroughly sanded. For convenience, it is best to make the shape of the handle according to the lice of the hand with smoothly passing bends for the fingers.

Step 3
All elements of the knife must be connected into a single whole, therefore, using an electric drill, we make a hole in the handle. Making it a little larger than the fixing part.

Step 4
Attach the knife blade to wooden handle. There is nothing complicated about this, you just need to insert the blade into the hole on the handle, using epoxy to fix it. Then leave the knife for a while in a warm place so that the resin hardens well.

Step 5
We will cover the handle with oil, it will saturate the pores, for a long time it will not let the wood deteriorate and will beautifully highlight the texture. If you want, you can varnish the handle. As they say: the master is the master.
The blade of the knife needs to be sharpened well.
That's all the knife-jamb made by your hands is ready. I hope it will serve you for a long time.

Sculptural composition, work of Novoselov A.V.

To perform all types of carving, various elements of home decoration, furniture, souvenirs and other crafts, you need a special tool.

The carving tool can be distinguished as the main (cutting) and auxiliary (for drilling and sawing, carpentry, marking). Also widely used are various electrified household tools and appliances based on an electric motor, which the master can make himself.

All tools must be of excellent quality so that you can easily perform carving work of any complexity.

The cutting tool should be made of good steel, light and comfortable, perfectly sharpened so that the wood is cut like butter, it should be kept in perfect condition.

A blunt tool crumbles, crumples, and does not cut wood, and the cuts and the carving itself look rough and careless. This spoils the mood and often discourages the desire to finish the work. It is easy and pleasant to work with a sharp tool, the drawing is clean, precise, beautiful. By the finished product, you can always determine not only the skill and handwriting of the master, but also what and how he did the work.

Cutting tool

Bogorodsky knife, used for sculptural carving, takes its name from Bogorodsk sculptural carving.

Bogorodsky knife

joint knife(chamfer sharpening angle 20°, bevel angle 35 0; 45°; 60°), used for flat, flat-relief, embossed, openwork threads.

joint knife

knife cutter- used as an auxiliary tool for various types of threads.

knife cutter

Chisels straight(sharpening angle 18-20°); are used as an auxiliary tool for various types of threads.

Straight chisel

Chisels semicircular- the main tool used to perform all types of woodcarving. There are: - sloping (R˃H), medium (R=H), steep (R˂H).

Chisels semi-round

Sameski - Cranberries these are chisels with a curved blade that allows, when carving, not to touch the processed plane with the handle. There is a cranberry-flat chisel, a cranberry-corner. cranberry - a semicircular chisel.

Cranberry chisels

Ceraziki chisels resemble steep semicircular chisels. The width of their canvas is 2 ... 3 mm. Designed for cutting thin veins, the sections of which correspond to the profile of the tool.

Cerazik chisel

Chisels - corners or geismus.(angle between cutting edges 50-70°). Used to select a V-shaped groove, used to make contour thread elements.

Corner chisel or geismus

Stichel. Stichels always have a bend angle of 15 degrees. Their handles are most often in the form of a fungus.Used to sample various veins in the manufacture of engravings.

Stichel

Klepiki. Rivets come in a variety of sizes, but they have only three forms of sharpening: a sword, a leaf, and a nail. The first two are called so: rivet-sword and rivet-leaf.

They are used in flat-relief and three-dimensional carving for cleaning the background in hard-to-reach places.

Klepik-sword, Klepik-leaf

Chisel-nail. Marigolds differ from ordinary rivets in the form of sharpening. She looks like a fingernail. The purpose of nails is cleaning in hard-to-reach places and making stapled thread elements.

nail chisel

Spooners(spoon knives). The best spoon holder is a sharpened ring with a bar welded to it. Spooners are needed to remove a large amount of material in the recesses and to process the inner walls in the manufacture of dishes.

Spooners

Punches and stamps- these are steel rods with a pattern at the working ends. They are most often used for chasing the background in flat-relief and relief carving.

The cutting tool is made of tool steels:

1-Carbon (U10; U12; U10A; U12A), when sharpened, they are determined by a white beam of sparks with separate stars.

2-alloyed (XB5; X12; Ch12M), when sharpened, they give yellow or orange sparks.

3-High-speed steels (P18; P9), when sharpened, they give dark red sparks.

Tool sharpening and dressing

Of great importance for the performance of high-quality woodcarving is correct sharpening tool.

Tool sharpening consists of two stages:

1- chamfering;

2- edits.

1. Chamfering. The chamfer can be removed on an electric grinder (see fig.), a grinder with a manual drive or manually on an abrasive block.

An electric sharpener for sharpening and straightening tools: a - a mechanized double-sided sharpener with devices for sharpening, straightening and polishing tools: 1 - movable stop; 2 - felt circle; 3 - protective screen; 4 - abrasive wheel; 5 - engine; b - movable stop device;: 1 - horizontal movement lock; 2 - movable platform for choosing the angle of sharpening; 3 - bolt - vertical movement lock; c - a device for straightening and polishing a tool (diagram): 1 - electric motor; 2 - belt drive; 3 - felt circles; 4 - wooden circles for corners; 5 rubber wheels with abrasive; 6 - bearings; 7 - metal frame; 8 - movable stop; 9 - shaft.

The location and movement of the tool during sharpening is shown in the figures.

Chamfering: a - on straight chisels; b - on semicircular and sloping chisels: 1 - external chamfer; 2 - internal chamfer; in - on chisels-corners: 1 - internal chamfer; 2 - external chamfer.

The position of the chisel during sharpening: 1 - straight chisel; 2 - semicircular and sloping; 3 - chisel - corner;

When sharpening it is necessary:

Maintain the specified angle of sharpening;

To maintain the shape of the blade, the chamfer should be even without traces of curling;

Blueing of the instrument is not allowed (prevent by periodic wetting of the instrument in water).

2. Edit. Under the editing of the tool is understood to increase the purity of sharpening the blade, deburring, improving sharpening. To edit the tool, microcorundum whetstones (Fig.), skins, and leather are used.

Sharpening a joint: a - sharpening parameters: 1 -

chamfer; 2 - sock; 3 - blade; 4 - heel;

b - the position of the hands at work;

For semicircular incisors, a dressing board is made of linden, cuts on its surface are transverse grooves for incisors of different sizes (Fig.).

Dressing boards and belts

1 - board with a set of profile bars and whetstones;

2 - dressing board with chisel profiles;

3 - leather or canvas belt for straightening.

Before editing, GOI paste is rubbed into the dressing board. inner surface semicircular incisors are ruled by round wooden twigs wrapped in fine sandpaper or leather rubbed with GOI paste. You can edit the instrument on a rotating felt wheel rubbed with GOI paste.

A properly sharpened tool must have a specified sharpening angle, blade shape, and no burrs.

When cutting across the grain of a pine or spruce board, the cutter should leave a clean cut without breaking the grain.

Literature:

1. Burikov V.G., Vlasov V.N.

House carving-M.: Niva Rossi together with the Eurasian Region Company, 1993-352 p.

2. Vetoshkin Yu.I., Startsev V.M., Zadimidko V.T.

Wooden arts: textbook. allowance. Yekaterinburg: Ural. state forest engineering un-t. 2012.