Instructions on how to make an ax with your own hands - a step-by-step description of how to create and assemble. Making an ax: from a wooden toy to a real tool What can an ax be made of

An ax is such a simple but useful tool that most home crafters have in their arsenal. It is applicable both in the conditions of the dacha, and in many professional works where good tools are indispensable. If you treat the ax with care and do not forget to properly prepare it, then the result of the work will certainly please and will not cause disappointment. Today we will figure out how to make this tool with our own hands.

Features of a homemade ax

The ax is a simple and common tool that is difficult to surprise anyone. However, thanks to him, you can cope with many complex jobs and end up with an excellent result. On sale you can find both simple options for axes, as well as more interesting and original ones, for example, with decorative inclusions. If you don’t want to spend money on a ready-made version, or you couldn’t find a suitable one among those, you can do it yourself.

Many home craftsmen, not found on sale the right tool, undertake to do it with their own hands. Such work cannot be called impossible or super difficult, but even here it is very important to follow all the rules in order to get a good result. It should be borne in mind that there are several varieties of axes that it is possible to build on your own.

For example, there are special cleavers that are very popular today:

• mechanical;
• with electric drive.

Of course, the mechanical version is the simplest and easiest to perform. It is equipped with a manual drive. Making such a model with your own hands is not difficult. Blueprints mechanical tools are quite simple and understandable, and the principle of their work lies in uncomplicated mechanical manipulations. This device consists of the following main elements:

• metal wedge;
• spring mechanism.

Working with such a tool, the master spends a minimum of effort and time, especially if you compare this cleaver with a standard simple ax. As for the even more advanced electric cleaver, there is one main part in it, which, after activating the engine, starts its movement - it constantly rotates. The master only needs to put in a new batch of firewood for the split.

You should also be aware of other options for axes that many craftsmen can make on their own.

• Joiner's. This tool has a small weight and size, as well as a pointed blade. It is used in cases where the most accurate and accurate work with wood is needed.
• Taiga. This ax can also be made by hand. It is perfect for felling trees, removing knots and bark.
• Tsalda. This tool is made to clear the area of ​​bushes.
• Kitchen. Such tools are made exclusively for cutting bones. The kitchen ax is a small tool with a short handle and a large blade.
• Lumberjack. Only suitable for cutting down trees. It is made from a long ax handle and a pointed wide blade. It also has other names, for example, felling.

The taiga types of axes are recognized as the most popular and practical. They are distinguished by the following features:

• little weight;
• small area of ​​the stabbing area;
• unusual sharpening of the blade (the edge located at the back is several times smaller and thinner than the front).

For the manufacture of a homemade ax, certain types of trees are ideal. It should be borne in mind that materials suitable for such purposes can easily withstand significant vibration loads that occur at the moment of impact of the tool.

Any homemade ax is also distinguished by the fact that it is ideal for the master who works with it. Making this tool with your own hands, it is possible to adjust it for yourself, for your hand. The result is the most convenient, practical and easy-to-use devices.

Tools and materials

The ease of use of the ax largely depends on the correct manufacture of its handle. One of the following types of wood is ideal for this part:

• maple;
• ash;
• birch.

You definitely need to know what steel the piercing component of the future tool is made of. Acceptable materials marked 8HF, 9HF, 9XC, HVG, U7A and many others. It is only necessary to avoid the designation of MRTU, OST and TU on these details.

Of the tools you may find useful:

• abrasive sharpener;
• file;
• marker for marking;
• chisel;
• magnetic corner;
• clamp;
• sandpaper;
• grinding disc for sharpening the blade;
• Bulgarian;
• Some jobs may require a welding machine.

DIY manufacturing

On your own, you can make any kind of ax. It can be simple, hunting, Scandinavian, marching, intended for throwing (throwing) or just decorative - there are a lot of options. And it is also permissible to update the tool and build a completely new and convenient tool from an old ax. In order to do such work yourself at home, you will first need to make an accurate drawing with all the indicators of the planned tool. It is important to indicate the dimensions of all parts, because they can vary greatly. For example, the stalk of an ax is not only quite large, but also medium or small, like the blade.

From the spring

A small hatchet can be made from an old spring. It can be not only a working one, but also an original decorative tool, similar to a Viking axe. You need to do such a thing in the following way.

1. It is necessary to take an old spring from a machine with a width of 10 cm and a length of about 40 cm. Using a pre-prepared template, apply the contours of the planned fixture to the springs using a marker.
2. Draw the contours of the ax using a grinder with cutting wheels. Then carefully sand the cut blank, giving it the desired shape.
3. For particularly complex metal work, it is permissible to use a drill.
4. You can use an old chair leg as a handle. Drill 3 holes in the spring for fastening to the handle.
5. Cut off the leg to the desired length. Cut this piece into two halves. Drill 3 holes in each of them. After that, you need to assemble the handle, fixing it with bolts and screws. Draw the shape of the part on the grinder.
6. Finally, sharpen the blade. The result will be a beautiful mini hatchet. It is suitable for outdoor recreation or in a summer cottage.

From reinforcement

From this part you can make a good cleaver. It is done like this.

• Take two reinforcement parts with a length of 50 cm and 8 blanks to make the lower and upper squares.
• Using reinforcement, weld a couple of squares. Then weld the racks.

• For a cleaver blade, it is desirable to take steel with a thickness of 8-10 mm. Weld the knife to the reinforcing bases.
• Now focus on sharpening the angle of attack. Place the knife in the middle of the structure.

After that, a simple homemade cleaver can be considered complete. It can be a good alternative to a mechanical or screw device.

From a circular saw

A good ax can be built from an old disk circular saw. To make a reliable and strong tool in this case, you only need a carved disk from a circular. Consider how to make an ax from such a part (there is no need to harden the disk, since it is already hardened).

• Make a drawing of the future tool on cardboard or paper. Cut out the resulting template. Put it on disk.
• Cut out the desired part with the impeller.
• Heat the resulting part using a burner. Drill 2 holes for the wood handle.

• Cut off the excess leftovers from the bottom half of the piece.
• Clean the hatchet well using sandpaper.
• Cut out the wood handle. Lubricate the two halves of this element separated from each other with adhesive, install a pair of screws.
• Clean the handle. Varnish. This will complete the work.

From stone

You can make an ax using stones. This material makes good blades. However, it should be borne in mind that their manufacture is a rather laborious and lengthy process. Suitable types of stones:

• granite;
• quartzite;
• sandstone.

For such a tool, it is desirable to make an oak handle. This material is characterized by reliability and sufficient rigidity. Take a pre-made blank. It should be free of knots and other wood defects. Make an incision moving along the fibers under the anatomy of the handle. To do this, use a jigsaw with fine teeth. At the tip of the handle, make a slight slope, "looking" down. This is necessary so that the planned ax does not slip in your hands as you work.

Further, a hole can be made in the stone specifically for the cone, using a drill or a bench machine. After that, it will be necessary to hammer the prepared handle into the wedge. If you make a classic stone ax, then it is worth attaching the blade to a special wide-width Kevlar tape. Such parts are famous for their reliability and durability, so it will be safe to work with a homemade tool.

These rules should be followed when making a stone axe.

1. Grind the stone in such a way that it fits as close as possible to the end of the handle. Only in this way will it be easiest to tie it.
2. It makes no sense to use very expensive specialized devices and machines in the manufacture of this tool. Just remove the top layer from the stone. It would be enough.
3. Never make a handle out of raw wood. If you do not follow this rule, then over time you may encounter the fact that this part will dry out and noticeably decrease in size. The tool will be unusable.

If everything is done correctly, you will get a reliable, durable and wear-resistant tool that will solve many of the problems that home craftsmen face in the country.

An ax handle can be found in every person engaged in economic activities. The tool is quite expensive, and cheap copies are of poor quality. Therefore, we will figure out how to make an ax handle yourself.

How to make an ax head?

It is unlikely that you will decide suburban area forging the metal part by yourself. Therefore, it is worth looking for an easier way to make a head.

1. You will need any metal ax head. The optimal weight is 1.5 kilograms (± 100 gr.). It is necessary to cut the front ledge exactly with the butt. A defect of 5-6 degrees is allowed, but it is advisable not to allow such shortcomings.
2. The back of the blade should be rounded. Metal - cut off. Otherwise, the surface will be with corners. For such work, you can use a grinder, or an ordinary emery wheel (but not with a large grain).
3. Now you need to cut a semicircle in the inner part of the blade. Without it, the grip of the ax will be poor. Accordingly, no serious work can be done. Due to the optimal shape of the ax, it will be possible to hang it on tree branches, pull up logs, and so on. We will also reduce the weight of the tool element by 100-200 gr.
4. The upper corners of the butt need to be cut. Thus, we will achieve more efficient work with the tool and reduce its weight. But this is an optional step.
5. All that was left was the sharpening of the axe. Bulgarian is not even considered! Only a low power tool. An emery machine is perfect. It should have a large circle and medium grain. You need to sharpen the ax on both sides! You should not make it too sharp (the tool will not last long).

How to make an ax with your own hands?

It is very important to make a quality pen, otherwise you will quickly get tired in the process. Excellent geometry, high-quality grinding, balance - this is not only convenience, but also safety.

You can safely take pine for the material. It is easy to sand and sharpen. However, the material is quite brittle. With regards to birch, it is cheap, readily available and quite reliable. But it is best to take maple and clear. Among the shortcomings is the complicated process of making a pen, which is why beginners are unlikely to be able to cope with this task.

The length of the handle must not exceed 70 cm (small deviations are acceptable). If you want a camping hatchet, then 40 cm will be enough, but not for firewood. When planning large-scale work, it is worth making a pen 100-120 cm in size, but working with such a tool is difficult.

Step-by-step instruction

1. Let's say we already have a wooden blank. The diameter of the chock is at least 12 cm. Its size is 20 centimeters longer. There should not be any defects on the workpiece, even small knots.
2. The wood must be dried. But before that, we clean it from the bark, split the chock in the center. The exposure time is optimally 2 months. The temperature is 25 degrees. Percentage of humidity - no more than 15 units. Overheating or excess dampness is the cause of rapid deformation.
3. Creating a tool shape. You will need a knife that allows you to quickly remove all unnecessary. But, most likely, it will not be possible to do without a chisel or a small hammer. If you are a beginner, then you will have to spend a couple of hours on the third step. For an experienced person, planing an ax handle takes half an hour.
4. Planting and fixing the ax handle. Auxiliary elements - epoxy resin, gauze. Further waiting for a few days - later you can already chop wood. For reliability, it is worth hammering a wedge (especially if complex work is ahead of the tool).
5. It remains to grind the ax, varnish. Use only good quality sandpaper. Anti-corrosion mixtures are needed for the durability of the ax. Lacquer is a visual component. It is important if you plan to give a hand-made instrument as a gift.

For a gift, it would be nice to make a leather case. It's simple enough. You will need 30 × 30 leather, strong threads (preferably nylon) and an awl.

An ax is one of the most famous and affordable tools in the arsenal of most summer residents and professional craftsmen. If you use it correctly, you can simplify many workflows, resulting in an excellent result. An ax can not only be bought ready-made in a specialized store, but also made at home. It doesn't take much time, effort and Money. Today we will take a closer look at how to properly make an ax handle with your own hands.

How to select and prepare wood?

Many jobs are impossible without a well-sharpened and strong axe. This tool is often needed both in household and larger-scale work. In stores you can find many different models there are quite a few such tools, because there are quite a few types of axes themselves. Pick up perfect option possible according to any requirement.

But there are also cases when the consumer could not find a suitable tool for himself. Many people in such situations find a simple way out for themselves - they make an ax on their own. In order for the tool to turn out to be of high quality, reliable and durable, it must consist of good elements. So, to create an ax handle, it is very important to choose the right suitable material.

Not every type of wood is suitable for creating this ax detail. It is believed that a real master will go around the whole forest before he finds the very tree from which it will be possible to make an ax handle. In most cases, the indicated element of the ax is constructed from the root section of the birch, and even better if the growths that are present on its trunk are used. These parts are distinguished by a very dense and wavy structure.

Birch is not the only tree that can make a good ax handle. Instead, it is permissible to refer to trees such as oak, maple, acacia, ash and others. deciduous trees relating to hard rocks. According to experienced craftsmen, beech, oak, larch, walnut and elm produce the most reliable, comfortable and durable high quality handles. But it is not enough to find the ideal material for making an ax handle. We still need to properly prepare it for the upcoming work.

The blanks must be dried well. This is done only in natural conditions, and it often takes a very long time - an average of 3-4 years, and even longer is better (5 years will be enough). Wood should be dried exclusively in a dark and dry place where there is good ventilation. Precipitation, dampness and water should not penetrate into the space where natural material will be prepared. Otherwise, there will simply be no sense in such drying, and it will not work to make a good ax handle.

How to make a template?

If you have material already prepared and dried to the desired degree, then you should proceed to the next step in creating an ax handle. Next, you will need to competently make a convenient template, which will be a great helper in further work.

Here it is important to take into account the fact that there are quite strict rules governing the shape of the ax handle based on the main type of device. So, light tools, the weight of which is usually from 0.8 to 1 kg, are usually made with a handle having a length of 0.4-0.6 m. As for the more “serious” heavy axes, there is a length of 0.55-0.65 m. It must also be taken into account that all existing species axes are divided according to their main functionality.

So, the following types of these tools are distinguished:

• carpentry;
• lumberjack;
• branchy;
• cleaver;
• butcher's.

Before proceeding with the independent design of such a tool, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the detailed drawings of different models of handles.

When making a template, a number of important features should be taken into account.

• So that in the process of work the ax does not slip out and does not jump out of the hands at the moment of swing, its “tail” must be made a little wider than the place of capture.
• When making an ax handle for a cleaver, it is necessary to make a part 0.75-0.95 m long. Carpentry tools are made short. Their handle generally reaches the mark of 0.5 m.
• To the parameter of the length of the handle, the will of the butt must be added another 8-10 cm for an allowance. It will be possible to cut it off after installing the butt. It is very important to ensure that the tree at this moment does not begin to split.

The template with its correct shape and all sizes will need to be applied to paper or cardboard sheet.

Step by step instructions for making

It is not difficult to prepare an ax with your own hands. To do this, you must adhere to a not very complex technology for the work. Let's get to know her:

• mark the workpiece using a template;
• after that, it can be carefully cut with a jigsaw or other similar tool;
• further, the prepared part will need to be turned on a special machine and polished.

There are a number important rules which must be adhered to in the course of work.

• The processing of the fixing place of the ax handle must be carried out to the maximum carefully and accurately so as not to accidentally remove the excess part of the tree. Otherwise, the butt simply cannot be tightly fixed in its place. It is better to periodically try on the handle to the eye, so that in the end you get a small margin (no more than 2 cm).
• Do not use a file in the process of finishing the part. This will inevitably loosen the tree. Because of this, it will be more difficult to work with him further. It is better to use not a file, but a finely abrasive sandpaper with a grinder. You will need to move the tool along the wood fibers.
• It is necessary to give the final, correct and beautiful shape to the fixing place of the handle, taking into account the angle of the butt attachment. As for the cleaver, for him the indicated angle should be approximately 85 degrees. For a standard ax - 75 degrees.

At self-manufacturing ax handles must be handled very carefully. It's not worth rushing. If desired, you can decorate the handle of the tool with patterns and carved decorations (for example, you can wrap it with jute cord - it will also hold the blade more securely). When the ax handle is ready, it will be necessary to correctly install the cutting part on it.

Let's consider how to do it.

• Adjust the top of the piece to fit the eye of the blade. Remove the excess part of the tree with a knife. Be careful.
• On the handle, set horizontally, the cutting part must be placed on top. Then you need to put a mark on the handle with a pencil, to which it will drive in. Divide the segment and set another mark.
• Lock the handle in a vertical position using a vise. The wide piece should be at the top. Prepare a hacksaw for metal. Make a cut exactly to the second mark under the wedge.

• At a specialized outlet, pick up a wedge made of metal or make it yourself from wood.
• Lay out the board on a separate countertop. Put a blade on it. Put it upside down. Throw the prepared ax on this part, tapping it on the board. Now turn the fixture over and tap the handle on the board. The part will continue to fit. These steps should be repeated many times. As a result, it will turn out to drive the ax into the eye well.
• Then set the part in a vertical position. Install a wedge in the cut. Hit him with a mallet. Saw off excess protruding parts

How to protect from decay?

The wood from which the ax is made, like other similar materials, is subject to decay. Such problems always arise over time or in inappropriate storage conditions for the instrument. It is important to take care of a homemade ax in advance, protecting it from decay. It is strongly not recommended to use compounds such as varnishes or paints to protect wooden handles. The ban on the use of such compounds is due to the fact that their presence on the handle can lead to it slipping out of the hands during certain work. The reason for this is the glossy smooth texture.

The optimal solution to protect the ax from rotting, other suitable impregnations will become. Handle can be covered linseed oil or good old drying oil. There are other highly effective antiseptics that will extend the life of natural wood. But keep in mind that they will need to be applied periodically. Don't forget this process.

Some craftsmen add red pigment to antiseptic protective products. They turn to such a trick not at all to make the tool more interesting. appearance. After this coating, the ax will be much easier to find in the grass, because its color will become brighter.

Please note that the ax handle should be made so that its cross section has a characteristic oval shape. Only by observing this condition, it will be possible to successfully hold it, without straining the hand too much. Ax strikes will be more accurate and easier. It is recommended to make wood blanks for creating an ax handle in late autumn. It is during this period that the movement of juices is minimized (almost stops), which means that the tree becomes, as it were, dehydrated.

Many inexperienced craftsmen neglect the drying of wood for the construction of an ax handle. As a result, this ends with the fact that the handle changes in size, and the metal part with the butt on it is held very poorly. It is permissible to deal with undried material only in special situations, when the handle needs to be built urgently, and this spare part is made as a temporary one.

When making a brand new ax handle yourself, you need to draw up a detailed drawing / template of the future tool. If you have a very handy old ax in your arsenal, then you can remove all parameters from it. This will make it much easier and more convenient. Do not rush to turn the cutting edge of the tool. First you need to make sure that the metal is sufficiently hard. If it turns out to be too soft, then it will need to be additionally hardened under the influence of high temperatures.

It is permissible to start sharpening the ax blade only after it is installed on the ax handle.

A ready-made ax (both homemade and store-bought) is very important to use correctly. Experienced craftsmen it is strongly not recommended to try to cut various metal parts with such a device. Even if you plan on cutting wood, it's best to make sure there are no solids inside that could harm the tool.

It is strongly not recommended to throw the finished tool on hard surfaces, especially from a great height. The ax is not recommended to be left outdoors. Precipitation or aggressive Sun rays may adversely affect the quality wood detail. Keep such an instrument in a dark and dry place. Only under this condition will the ax serve you for many years.

Axe- a chopping tool, consisting of a wooden handle, often a short one, and a blade, which is located longitudinally or perpendicularly relative to the shaft. The latter are called tesla. They cut grooves during the construction of huts and ships, princely houses and churches, hollowed out troughs, boats, cut sculptures, toys and other wooden products.

The secret of the durability of products chopped with an ax is that the fibers of the tree are crushed under the blow of an ax and do not let moisture through. This does not happen when sawing, when the pores of the wood are left open for rot to enter.

What are axes and what are they used for?

The etymological dictionary gives several versions of the origin of the word, starting from the Bulgarian “ax”, Slovenian “topor”, Czech, Polish, etc. Connoisseurs consider the ax to be an Orthodox word and associate it with “trample”, otherwise “beat” when talking about the heart, from Ukrainian "tepority" - drag with difficulty, Bulgarian "tptya" - mesh, trample.

The wooden handle is called an ax handle, the metal part, which has a blunt rounded end on one side, is called a butt. Not the most the best option there will be a choice of a stick with a round section. It is much more convenient if the cross section is oval and the ax handle consists of straight and curved sections. Its tail section folds down for a comfortable grip.

On the other side is a blade with a sharpened working blade. Sometimes products have a beard-protrusion on the blade next to the mount, which protects the ax handle from impacts on metal and strengthens the wood mount. with metal part. It is believed that such axes are descendants of battle axes from Northern Europe. Most often, beards have carpentry tools, they are indispensable when working with wood.

Axes were used as cold fighting weapons, chopping and throwing.

Depending on the application, axes are:

Another variety is double-sided. The blades can have different sharpening and are designed to perform a wide range of work. They can be used as throwing weapon because they are well balanced. Manufactured from high carbon steel. The other side of the coin is their injury risk, high price, uncomfortable handle, and lack of shock function.

Manufacturing

The manufacture of blades from high-carbon steels protects the axes from mechanical damage and allows them to withstand temperature extremes. The blade does not require periodic sharpening, during operation it is not damaged with the appearance of nicks and scratches. A stamp indicating the brand of metal is put on the head. Forged Products stronger and heavier, you should give preference to this type of metal processing.

According to the width of the cutting part, the tools are:

1. wide;
2. medium;
3. narrow.

If the blade of a metal blade is sharpened at an angle of less than forty degrees, the tool penetrates deeper into the wood, but also quickly dulls. Combined sharpening allows you to save the blade from damage if the impact falls on the edge of the metal, with this method the central part is sharpened at a sharper angle than the edges.

The blades are straight and rounded. The latter, due to a decrease in area and an increase in pressure on the points of contact, acquire better cutting qualities.

Axes with a plastic shaft are as strong as wood, but lighter. Sometimes wooden ax handles are made with a rubberized handle to absorb shock and protect the wrist.

The right choice of tool

1. the optimal length of the ax handle is from the wrist to the shoulder joint;
2. the handle of the ax must be completely covered by the hand to avoid injury.

When choosing a short handle, you will have to make too much range of motion in order to increase the force of impact, the return to the hand will also increase. This will interfere with long and productive work with the tool.

If you intend to constantly work with the tool, you should give preference to an expensive quality product. If work drops out from time to time, get a cheaper option. A product from one manufacturer may have large price differences depending on the sale in the market or in a large store.

Design features of taiga axes

Taiga axes are truly universal. Tools are capable of felling trees, butchering animal carcasses, chopping wood for a fire, processing and splitting logs along the fibers, and building huts. They are highly durable and last for years. They are used by hunters, hunters, geologists, foresters and tourists.

The taiga tool differs from the carpenter's ax in the length of the handle. As a rule, it is longer than 50 centimeters and allows you to make a wide swing to increase the impact force when cutting. The blade of the head has no upper part. If necessary, you can independently change or adjust the blade of an existing ax. The saw cut of the upper toe reduces the weight of the tool, strengthens the upper part of the head, when working at low temperatures, it is more convenient to work with such an ax. The shape of the blade is rounded to allow for various forest work. The head has a beard for strength.

A wedge or steel nail is inserted into the eye, or seat, to reinforce the fastener. Fungus - a place on the handle - should not allow the hand to slip off. The butt of the ax can easily replace the hammer if necessary.

When choosing a taiga instrument, three rules must be observed. The tool must be selected individually according to the height of the man, taking into account frequent use, the main weight should fall on the metal head, the weight of the tool is chosen optimal in terms of transferring the product and performing the impact function.

DIY taiga masterpiece

Let's do taiga ax from the old with their own hands. For manufacturing, you will need a metal head from another product. It is free of rust. If the damage is deeply ingrained into notches and cracks, the metal is soaked for a day in an acetic bath, then cleaned with sandpaper.

The next step is to adjust the tool head for a taiga specimen using a grinder.

For an ax handle, a tree with hardwood is chosen. Beech is best suited for this role. The handle, on which the head is mounted, is impregnated with oil in several stages to prevent dampness. It is advised to use drying oil, wax, boiling oil, you can use linseed oil.

But it should be dried in ultraviolet rays in order to start the process of hemolytic cleavage, in which some bonds in the substance break up and stronger ones are formed. The process ends when the product becomes dry, rough to the touch and leaves no marks on the hands.

The product receives additional durability and water tightness. The fibers of the tree should go along the handle, manufacturers sometimes tinker and paint over the product if the fibers are at an angle. The strength of the ax handle in such a product is reduced.

The metal part is mounted on the butt of the handle in such a way that the ax handle extends one and a half centimeters above the head. Having achieved a tight fit, the head is removed and several cuts are made in the butt, not reaching the planting depth by 5 millimeters: one longitudinal cut and two transverse cuts.

To prevent the ax handle from cracking, the cuts are reamed. Now wedges are prepared from the same material - five wedges are required - and the structure is assembled again.

Bonded for strength epoxy resin, reinforcing with bandages to enhance the tightness of the fit. Beech wedges are driven in, securely securing the seat. All excess is cut off, the product is carefully polished. Over time, epoxy becomes unusable; to remove it, axes are burned in a fire. In this case, you can use wood glue.

The final touch is the sharpening of the blade.

To avoid accidental injury, you can sew a protective cover on the metal part.

Proper tool sharpening

You can sharpen the product manually and mechanically. Each has its own secrets that you need to know in order to avoid dulling the blade and breaking the “sharpener”.

At manual sharpening, a template is prepared from tin, the angle of sharpening is selected, the desired shape is cut out and applied to the ax blade. On the blade of the head, the sharpening line is marked with a marker. The action is performed by moving "from oneself", the process is time-consuming and exhausting. It is carried out in several steps using sandstone grinding wheels with grains of different sizes.

At mechanical experts do not recommend sharpening an ax in a hurry, they do not advise working as a grinder, you should choose a low processing speed. For the desired sharpening angle, a finishing paste is used, the grinding wheel is covered with it and the product is ground.

After sharpening, the tool blade is protected against rust with lithol, grease, machine or used oil. It is best to keep the tool in a dry place.

Compliance with safety regulations

1. do not leave the ax on the ground so that the tool does not rust and the ax does not become damp;
2. the head of the product should not hang on the handle;
3. when chopping a log, put wood underneath so as not to damage the blade on a stone or metal;
4. make sure you have enough room to swing your ax freely.

The ax is rightfully considered the “king” of the carpentry tool. A real carpenter, who is professional in his craft, knows how to make an ax that is ideal for a particular operation. The master, as a rule, has several axes, always ready for work. However, this tool is needed not only by carpenters, but also by ordinary people living outside the city in private houses, as well as citizens who go to summer cottages or on weekends. Each owner has to chop wood to heat the stove in the house or in the bathhouse. In order for this process to go faster and not cause trouble in the form of a flying ax, a dull blade or a broken ax handle, you must be able to properly prepare this tool for work and maintain it in “combat readiness” throughout the entire period of operation. The shape of the ax handle may be different. It is important to correctly fit the ax, wedge it, and then sharpen the blade at the right angle.

When buying an ax, or rather its stabbing part, you should pay attention to the quality of the metal used to make the tool. Look for the GOST sign on the ax, which confirms the compliance of the metal state standards and requirements. Be on the lookout if this sign is replaced by TU, OST or MRTU. In this case, the manufacturer can make changes to the technology. Soviet-era axes, which are of high quality metal, can be purchased at a flea market.

The quality of the metal can also be tested empirically by taking two axes and hitting the blade of one of them on the blade of the other. On a lower quality product, notches will remain after impacts. Also, the quality of the metal is checked by the characteristic sound that is made when the ax is tapped. In this case, the tool must be in a suspended state.

You should also pay attention to the following points:

• a well-drawn blade should not have bends or dents;
• taper shape of the eyelet;
• alignment of the eye and the blade of the ax;
• small thickness of the butt and perpendicularity of its ends to the blade.

Do not be upset if you cannot find an ax that meets all of these requirements. After all, the identified deviations can be eliminated by sharpening the burrs, boring the eye and giving the butt a symmetrical shape.

There will also be useful material on how to make a device for carrying firewood:

The choice of workpiece and the manufacture of an ax handle

The length of the ax handle is chosen based on the height and strength of the master. The quality of the wood also plays an important role. Lightweight axes, weighing about 800-1000 g, have handles from 40 to 60 cm long. For a heavy tool (1000-1400 g), the length of the ax varies from 55 to 65 cm.

The force of impact depends on the length of the ax handle. The longer the handle of the ax, the easier it is to chop wood chocks. The strength and height of a person also matters.

Not every type of wood is suitable for making an ax handle. For this purpose, a true master goes through the whole forest before he finds suitable tree. Most often, a blank for an ax handle is made from the root part of a birch, and preferably from growths on its trunk, which are distinguished by a special curly and very dense wood. Instead of birch, you can use maple, oak, acacia, ash and other hardwood deciduous trees. The blanks must be dried well in natural conditions, which will take a lot of time.

On the prepared workpiece, the contours of the future ax handle are outlined according to the selected template. A thickening should be provided at the end of the ax handle, designed to “brake” the hand in case the tool slips out. Then, excess wood that is outside the contour is removed with a knife, an ax with a perfectly sharpened blade, a chisel or a jigsaw, which is much faster. Having completed the fitting of the ax on the ax using a mallet, and making sure that these parts fit snugly, you can continue further finishing the tool handle. Glass is used for scraping, and fine-grained sandpaper is used for grinding.

Above is a drawing of an ax handle (a) that meets the requirements of GOST 1400-73, and below is a camping ax handle (b) with a zone of undisturbed fibers of 40 mm

Important! If the ax easily enters the eye, then this means that the master made a mistake in the calculations and drew the template incorrectly. In this case, even a driven wedge will not correct the situation, ensuring a short tight fit of the ax on the handle.

How to put an ax on the handle?

Below is an algorithm for carrying out operations, showing how to put an ax on a turned and polished ax handle. This is one of the possible ways:

• Fit the top of the ax to the eye of the ax. At the same time, cut off excess wood with a knife. You should not use a file, as it “swings” the tree.
• On the ax handle, placed in a horizontal position on the table, put the ax on top, and with a pencil put a mark on the handle to which it will be mounted. Divide the segment in half and put a second mark.
• Clamp the handle vertically in a vise with the wide end at the top. Take a hacksaw and make a cut to the second wedge mark.
• Buy a metal wedge from the store or cut a wooden analogue, the thickness of which should be from 5 to 10 mm. The length of a wedge made for an ax with your own hands should be equal to the depth of the cut, and the width should be equal to the size of the ax eye.
• Place a board on the table and place the ax on it, placing it upside down. Put the ax on the handle and start tapping it on the board. Then turn over and tap on the board with the handle of the ax handle, while the process of planting continues. Turning and tapping should be done several times. As a result, the ax handle will enter the eye.
• Next, place the ax handle vertically and insert a planed wedge into the cut, hammer it with a mallet to half or almost to the end. With a hacksaw, saw off everything that remains sticking out from above.
• Apply oil (motor oil, linseed oil, sunflower oil, etc.) to the handle, let the excess drip off and leave to dry. Wipe the ax and handle with a rag.

After fitting the ax to the ax handle, shown in figure (a), it is mounted (b) and the handle is wedged (c): 1 - ax, 2 - ax handle, 3 - wedge

How and at what angle is the ax blade sharpened?

So that the tool does not cause trouble, it is necessary to sharpen the ax blade correctly. According to the requirements of GOST, the sharpening angle of a construction ax should be 20-30 °. Tool for carpentry sharpened at a slightly larger angle of 35 °. The recommended angles must be adhered to, as thinner blades will bog down in the wood. It will take extra effort to pull them out. On knots, a thin blade can easily bend. The blade sharpened at an angle of 35 °, breaking the chips separated from the main log, does not get stuck in the wood.

First, a “rough” primary sharpening of the ax is performed, during which it is possible to eliminate all the chips, minor damage and large potholes with a rotating grinding wheel. At the same time, a new clear cutting edge of the ax is being formed. Then the rough-sharpened blade is subjected to “finishing” sharpening. Grinding is carried out along the entire length of the blade on both sides with a fine-grained bar, which removes all burrs.

Three ways to sharpen an ax blade: a) a grinding wheel; b) a bar, moistened with water; c) dressing with a whetstone moistened with machine oil

Important! The shine of the ax blade and the absence of burrs on the cutting edge indicates that the sharpening process was successful.

How to properly store an ax?

After work, it is recommended to put on a cover made of thick leather, birch bark or other material on the ax blade. You can't leave an ax stuck in a log. A real master takes care of his tool, because the ax is an “extension” of his hands.

Having tried at least once to chop wood with a homemade ax, you will not be able to work with a shop tool. If you doubt your abilities, then use the services of craftsmen who know how to make a convenient ax handle for an ax from a selected and dried blank.