Do-it-yourself wooden salt shaker on a lathe. We make a salt shaker at home so how to make a do-it-yourself decoupage of a wooden salt shaker

Even the most inconspicuous things can become real works of art. At the same time, a minimum of time and effort is spent. We invite you to make a cute salt shaker with your own hands. The kitchen is the area where a woman spends most of her time. Therefore, every detail matters. Surrounding yourself with decorative, useful items is easy. You just need to show ingenuity and imagination.

First you need to find a glass salt shaker with a wide mouth. You can find enough similar items on the market for tableware. They are inexpensive and look simple. But this is at first glance. In fact, this is a ready-made template to use in your work. Fill your kitchen with colorful darlings and feel for yourself how your mood rises when you use them.

If for some reason a suitable salt shaker was not found, then it can be built from improvised materials. For example, a glass jar from baby food. Tear off the labels, wash it well, and punch small holes on top. Under the influence of a salty environment, the metal cover may become rusty. In this case, simply replace the cap with a new one. Stores will always sell baby food.

Now you need to think about the composition inside the salt shaker. The winter theme looks attractive: Christmas trees, skiers, snowmen. But this is not essential. As little "heroes" of your salt shaker, you can use toys from Kinder Surprise. Pay attention to the counters with key chains, there are also plenty to choose from.

We will glue the toy on hot glue. To do this, apply a generous amount of glue to the bottom of the toy and quickly place it in the salt shaker. Press it well so that the adhesive adheres to the two surfaces. To place an item in a jar, use tweezers. So it will be more convenient. Next, pour salt into the salt shaker and enjoy the cute little thing on the shelf of your kitchen.

Text and drawings: G. Fedotov

Ancient wooden salt shakers: 1 - chiseled, from ancient Novgorod; 2 - salt shaker-lion, Mordovia; 3 - woven from pine roots; 4 - chiseled with painting, 19th century, Russian North; 5 - salt shaker in the form of a swan, XVII-XVIII centuries, Vologda region; 6 - woven from birch bark; 7 - rectangular with painted relief; 8 - dugout salt shaker-chair, 19th century, Volga region; 9 - salt-cellar chair, decorated with carvings, 19th century, Volga region; 10 - cooper's salt shaker-chair, Volga region; 11 — salt-cellar-duck, dug out of birch burl, 19th century, Vologda region.

An old proverb says: "Without bread it is insatiable, but without salt it is tasteless." Bread and salt were mentioned together not only in proverbs and sayings, but also in epics, fairy tales, folk songs. Even now, according to the old custom, dear guests are greeted with bread and salt.

Since ancient times, salt was treated with care - spilling salt was considered a great sin. They kept it in safe salt shakers. Proportions, dimensions, design, materials and decorative trim salt shakers were determined by their purpose.

Going on the road, salt was taken in small road salt shakers. They were most often woven from birch bark or tree roots. Saltcellars made of birch bark had the shape of a cube or a boot. So that the salt does not wake up and does not soak, the salt shaker is tightly closed with a cork.

The salt shakers served on the table differed from the travel ones in their more impressive size and rich decorative decoration. In ancient Novgorod, wide squat salt shakers, carved on lathes, were common. In the last century, in the north of our country, there were chiseled salt shakers, painted oil paints.

But most often the salt shakers were sculpturally processed. Folk craftsmen gave them the shape of a swan, a duck (old duck) and even a lion. When carving a duck saltcellar, the craftsman left a bridge between the beak and chest, which served as a convenient handle. The back, together with part of the tail, was sawn off and a recess for salt was selected in the body with cutting tools.

Then the sawn part of the back and tail was installed in its original place. Holes were drilled near the tail, into which a round rod was inserted - the so-called swivel. If it was necessary to open the salt shaker, the lid on the swivel was easily taken aside. Some duck salt shakers had removable lids.

The salt shakers were decorated with carvings or paintings. If the raw material was valuable birch burl wood, then the craftsmen tried to reveal and emphasize the natural beauty of the textural pattern.

Cooperage salt shaker with Gorodets painting, 19th century, Volga region.

In the Upper and Middle Volga regions, salt shakers-armchairs were common. In shape, they really resembled armchairs, and individual parts of the salt shakers bear the same names as the armchair: back, armrests, etc.

For many centuries, a special type of lid on a swivel has been developed in peasant life. Two cylindrical rods, cut from the protrusions of the cover, rotate in holes drilled in the armrests of the side walls. The lid, rotating on swivels, easily leans back and rests against the back of the salt shaker.

The back rose above the body of the salt shaker and served as a convenient handle. Sometimes a through hole was drilled in the back - such a salt shaker could be hung on the kitchen wall. The design of salt shakers is designed in such a way that it does not contain any single nail or some other metal fastener. After all, metal parts from salt and moisture quickly rust and collapse.

According to the manufacturing technique, salt shakers can be divided into three types: dugout, carpentry and cooperage. Hollowed salt shakers were carved from a whole piece of wood. Joiners were assembled from individual planks using well-known joining techniques. wooden parts(for example, in a spike). Cooperage salt shakers were also assembled from separate boards, but they were fastened together with a willow hoop.

Especially many of these salt shakers with paintings on the lid and back were made by craftsmen for sale. They were willingly bought not only by peasants, but also by townspeople. Durable, roomy and comfortable salt shakers have served reliably for many years. They turned out to be so practical that they are still preserved in some peasant houses of the Volga region. The wood darkened from time did not spoil their appearance at all.

Some people nowadays keep a supply of salt in glass jars by closing them with plastic caps. Needless to say, how inconvenient it is? The jar constantly has to be removed from sight: hardly anyone wants to put such a salt shaker in a conspicuous place. In addition, there is always a risk of breaking the bank.

A wooden salt shaker, whether antique or made today, fits perfectly into the interior of a modern home. There is no need to hide it, and there is no need to talk about convenience - it has been tested by the centuries-old experience of the people.

For the manufacture of salt shakers, wood of linden, aspen, alder, birch is suitable. Do not use wood containing a lot of tannins, such as oak, or containing a lot of resin, such as pine.

The wood must be free of knots, cracks and rot, well dried and kept at room temperature. In the city, you can successfully use planks from crates, which are sometimes simply burned near shops. Prepared planks need to be planed so that they have a flat and clean surface.

Making a cooper's salt shaker-chair: 1 - parts of the salt shaker.

The first salt shaker can be made, guided by ready-made drawings. The volume of the salt shaker will depend on the width of the prepared boards. Folk craftsmen used boards with a width of 9 to 12 cm.

On a sheet of thin thick cardboard, draw an auxiliary grid. The dimensions of each cell should be equal to one sixth of the width of the board. Focusing on the cells, transfer only the outer contours of the parts to the cardboard.

Since the side walls of the salt shaker have the same shape, you need to make one template for them. You must draw and then cut out five patterns: back wall (back), front wall, side wall, bottom and cover.

Place the cut out cardboard templates sequentially on the blanks and circle with a simple pencil. Saw out the details of the salt shaker along the applied contours. Make cutouts in the lid for the swivels with a narrow chisel. Round the protrusions for the swivels with a knife, turning them into cylindrical rods.

In the side walls, drill two through holes corresponding to the diameters of the swivels. The holes in the side walls must be drilled exactly opposite each other, otherwise the cover will warp during assembly and will not fit snugly against the walls. Therefore, it is better to drill holes at the same time, pulling the side walls with clamps.

For all four walls, with a knife or chisel, cut off the ends in the places shown in the figure at an angle of 45 ° so that they can then be connected to the mustache. You need to cut carefully, constantly checking the accuracy of the cut and trying to ensure that the walls connected to the mustache fit as closely as possible to each other.

The bottom of the salt shaker is inserted into special grooves cut in the walls. They are called chimes. Cut out the chimes in the following sequence. At an equal distance from the edges, saw through all the walls with a thin file by about half the thickness of the planks. Then, with a chisel or cutter, make a longitudinal cut at an angle of 45 °. Cut the edges of the bottom also at an angle of 45 °. The cut edges of the bottom should fit snugly into the chimes cut into the walls.

Making a cooper's salt shaker-chair: 2 - assembling the salt shaker, the sequence of making and winding the hoop: a - splitting the wicker; b - planing of the rod; in - the beginning of the winding; d, d - continuation of the winding; e - tightening the ends of the hoop.

Before you finally connect all the parts of the salt shaker to each other, perform a trial assembly. Insert the cover swivels into the holes in the side walls. Connect the side walls to the back.

Insert the bottom into the chimes and attach the front wall. Then wrap the salt shaker with a strong rope. If all the parts of the salt shaker are well fitted to each other, then even with a strong pressure on the salt shaker, they should not move, as if they were put on glue.

The lid should open freely, turning on the swivels with some effort. The edge of the lid adjacent to the back should be slightly rounded. This is done so that when the lid is opened, it does not rest against the back.

It is also necessary to check that the lid fits snugly against the edges of the salt shaker when closing. Move the rope winding closer to the lid and round off the sharp corners of the salt shaker with a knife. Then slide the winding down and round the corners at the top.

If the salt shaker is supposed to be decorated with carvings, then it is better to disassemble it, apply threads to the parts, and then reassemble it. If you decide to paint it, then this can be done on the assembled salt shaker. But instead of a temporary rope, the salt shaker must be wrapped with a permanent willow hoop.

Prepare the hoop in advance by splitting the rod into three or four parts with an ordinary knife. Then cutting off the loose core of the split rod with a knife, you will get a flexible and durable tape. Press one end of it with the thumb of your left hand against the back wall of the salt shaker. Wrap the salt shaker with a strip, pressing the coil to coil as tightly as possible.

Finishing the winding, slide the remaining end of the tape under the turns near the other end. Pull the ends protruding from under the willow winding with force in opposite directions. Now you can safely remove the rope: the willow hoop securely tied all the details together.

Stages of manufacturing a salt shaker with a rounded body: 1 - drawings of parts and their blanks.

Without a single nail and glue, a salt shaker-chair is made, which has a rounded shape of the body. The lid has, as in a cooper's salt shaker, swivels on which it turns when opening and closing. But unlike the first, this salt shaker contains fewer parts, since the side and front walls are replaced by one bent part. The drawing above shows its development.

You already know how to make templates and use them to trace the details on the wood. Having cut out a wall reamer from the plank, drill four holes in it, corresponding to the diameters of the swivels.

Saw 15 parallel grooves across the workpiece at an equal distance from each other to a depth slightly more than the middle. If the saw blade is thick, the number of cuts may be less. But the same distance between them must be observed in all cases.

The number of cuts and their width is best determined practically on a separate board, based on the thickness of the saw at your disposal. At the bottom of the workpiece, saw through the chimes for the bottom.

Stages of manufacturing a salt shaker with a rounded body: 2 - an assembly drawing and a finished salt shaker.

In the back wall, cut the chime with a cutter and gouge two through rectangular holes with a narrow chisel, the dimensions of which should correspond to the dimensions of the ears - protrusions with round holes along the edges of the wall blank.

Place the wall blank for a few minutes in hot water, then wipe with a dry cloth and gently bend. Steamed wood with longitudinal notches easily bends by hand without much effort.

in holes bent workpiece insert the lid swivels, and insert the bottom into the chimes. Insert the ears of the bent workpiece into the through rectangular holes on the back wall of the salt shaker. On the reverse side of the back wall, the holes in the ears will appear about halfway. Drive a pre-prepared wedge into them, which will firmly bind the entire structure.

Thoroughly clean the assembled salt shaker with fine-grained sandpaper, and then decorate with carving or painting. The painting can be done with oil paints, tempera or gouache. Tempera and gouache paints must be fixed by covering the painted surface with oil varnish or natural drying oil. In no case should you cover the inside of the salt shaker with anything.

"Young Technician"
Photo of ancient salt shakers from "Folk Russian Wooden Products" Gr. A.A. Bobrinsky

Salt is a product that we consume every day, which is always on the table. It is better if the salt is in a beautiful salt shaker, and you can rejoice at the sight of another thing done with my own hands(Figure 116).

Saltcellar (Fig. 117) consists of three parts: 1 - cover; 2 - body; 5 - connecting pin with a head.

For the lid you need a planed board with dimensions of 100 x 70 x 12 mm, for the body - a bar 100 x x 70 x 40 mm, for a pin - a bar 40 mm long, square section 13 x 13 mm.

Start making your salt shaker with the lid. If you have prepared a planed plank with dimensions of 100 x 70 x 12 mm, then you just have to dull the sharp edges with sandpaper and mark the hole.

Draw a longitudinal center line on the workpiece and, stepping back from the end 13 mm, put a cross (Fig. 118). There will be a hole here. Sand the body, if required, on all sides.

Then draw a longitudinal center line on the plate, step back from the end 13 mm and put a cross on it. There will be a hole here too. From the opposite end, step back along the center line of 37 mm and put a cross. This is the center of the hole. With a compass solution equal to 32 mm, draw a circle from the resulting center (Fig. 119).

After that, using a semicircular chisel, make a recess for salt, it is done in the same way as the recess was scooped on a spoon. In this case, the workpiece must be fixed in a vice, and in their absence - in a special mandrel, which is a board with a hole sawn to the size of the body. The board is attached to the desktop with a clamp. Better - two (Fig. 120). If there is no clamp, then you can attach the mandrel with the help of screws.

Such a simple device allows you to quite reliably hold the workpiece. In the course of work, hold the chisel with both hands, this will greatly facilitate the processing process.

The thickness of the mandrel must be more than half the thickness of the workpiece. In this case, at least 25 mm.

Adjust the depth of the salt container to your liking. In the proposed version, it is 30 mm. After processing with a chisel, carefully grind the recess.

The connecting pin with the head (Fig. 121) is easy to machine on lathe in the school workshop. If this is not possible, then do it manually. To do this, prepare a knife with a sharp end (Fig. 122). When working with such a knife, follow the safety rules - do not cut in the direction of yourself.

First, grind the workpiece to Ø 12 mm (Fig. 123, a), cutting corners. You will receive a cylinder, one end of which is rounded off with a knife (Fig. 123, b). Measure from the rounded end of the workpiece 10 mm and make a cut on a circle up to Ø 6 mm.

Treat the body of the pin with a knife to Ø 6 mm and grind it (Fig. 123, c), and at the same time the head.

When all the parts are made, tightly connect the lid and body of the salt shaker (you can use a clamp for this) and, holding them with your hands, drill a hole through the lid and to a depth of 15 mm in the body (Fig. 124). Then assemble the salt shaker and, if there are small discrepancies between the lid and the body, eliminate them with a sandpaper.

After this operation, separate the parts of the salt shaker and start marking the patterns on the lid. Here you will perform one of the most beautiful figures of geometric carving - “leaves with teeth” (Fig. 125).

You already have a longitudinal center line. Step back from the end, where there is no hole, 35 mm and draw a transverse axis (Fig. 126, i). After removing the dimensions from the template, draw a square 60 x 60 mm, for which, from the point of intersection of the axes, set aside 30 mm on four sides and put marks (Fig. 126, a). Through them and build a square (Fig. 126, b). Through the same points, mark a square turned at an angle of 45 ° (Fig. 126, c),
Using a compass, the opening of which is 30 mm, inscribe a circle in a square and draw arcs from the corners of a large square with the same radius, as shown in Fig. 126, g. From the corners of the same square, draw arcs with a radius of 34 mm - from horizontal to vertical axes (Fig. 126, e), and also draw diagonals (Fig. 126, f). These diagonals will help you complete a number of constructions (Fig. 126, g):

1) in the corners I, divided by the diagonals into paired triangles, enter the "pyramids";

2) in triangles II, which make up a small square with concave sides, also enter "1tyramid". Get a "star".

The large arcs that you drew with the compass formed a leaf-like shape. This is not a leaf, this is a bed, that is, a place in which the leaf lies. To perform it itself, it is necessary, departing 1 mm from the line of the bed, to draw parallel lines (Fig. 126, h).

Try to do it by hand. If not, use a compass.

The veins and teeth of the leaf shown on the template will appear later, after cutting out the leaf itself. Therefore, now they do not need to be depicted.

It's time to pick up a knife-joint. But before you move on to carving, understand the names of the leaf elements indicated in fig. 127, which will be used in the following description: 1 - bed line; 2 - leaf contour line; 3 - axial line of the leaf; 4 - clove; 5 - vein.

When carving, you must use the sequence that is offered to you. Otherwise, it is impossible to qualitatively reproduce the composition of the picture.

First, the leaf contour line is cut (cut through). This is done in the same way as when cutting through the "straw", only in this case - along the arc. The penetration depth is 2 mm (Fig. 128, c). This must be done on all leaves. Then, cutting through jumper 1 with the toe of the knife between the contour and the bed (Fig. 128, b), holding the knife at an angle of 45e with respect to the plane of the lid, make a trimming, as on a “straw”. But here this is done on the one hand, and the toe of the knife 2 must pass under the leaf, going beyond the line of its contour by 2-3 mm (Fig. 128, b).

When you pass the knife from one jumper to another, you will get a one-sided "straw".

Having trimmed the bed on all the leaves, proceed to the carving of the leaves themselves. To do this, cut through the center line of the leaf. Hold the knife vertically, deepening its toe gradually from the edge to the middle, where the depth should be about 3 mm, and then gradually bring it out to the other edge (Fig. 128, c). After that, taking into account the directions of the layers of wood, cut the left and right parts of the leaf. When cutting, try to keep the knife at an angle of no more than 30-35 ° to the surface of the lid (Fig. 128, d).

After cutting out all the leaves, mark out using fig. 129, veins. They are drawn by hand.

Veins are cut without preliminary tattooing or cutting, although the result is a “straw”, however, short. To perform it, place the cutting edge of the knife at a distance of 0.5 mm from the vein line (Fig. 130, a). At the same time, hold the knife at an angle of 45 ° relative to this line. Press down on the knife so that its cutting edge evenly penetrates the wood. Then do the same on the other side (Fig. 130, b), and a short “straw” will turn out on the leaf (Fig. 130, c).

To obtain a clove, the initial part of the vein, about 2 mm, is pierced with the toe of a knife (Fig. 130, d), and then a trimming is made at an angle to it (Fig. 130, e). As a result, the “leaf with teeth” will turn out to be the same as in Figure 130, e.

When the leaves are ready, cut out the corner shapes and the central star. They are familiar to you and do not present difficulties in work.

After finishing the thread, assemble the salt shaker by first dropping PVA glue into the hole in the body. There, the connecting pin must be locked in place. The lid must rotate freely (Fig. 131). Now your salt shaker is ready and from now on will serve its intended purpose.

To make a salt shaker box, I took acacia, it is very decorative tree light green shade, with good polishing gives an unusually beautiful pearlescent effect.

To make the box, you will need various cutters for the lathe, I have them homemade from simple files. Their steel is quite suitable for carving.

Manufacturing technology of a wooden box.

1) We clamp a cylindrical blank for the body of the box into a lathe and first roughly round it, removing the edges. For this purpose, we use a semicircular cutter:

2) We round off more smoothly with a cutter-jamb.

3) We apply recesses with a cutter-jamb, which will be decorative bandages of the box.

4) Then we cut off on both sides of these recesses, creating bulges on the box.

5) The resulting faces are rounded off.

6) Now you need to make the inner cavity of our salt shaker. To do this, we rearrange the support bar to the end of the workpiece and begin to deepen it with a straight narrow cutter from the center to the edge. We do everything smoothly, without sharp pressure. Step by step we go deeper:

7) Then, with the tip of a triangular cutter from the center to the edge, we gradually expand the cavity, reaching the bottom.

8) We level the bottom with a wide straight cutter, we also form the desired thickness with it and make a groove under the cover.

9) We clean the bottom and side walls of the box with sandpaper.

10) When everything is polished, we cut off the workpiece from the machine with a hacksaw. I do this with the machine turned on. But for this you need to confidently hold the hacksaw in your hand, you need to constantly watch how much is left until the end of the cut so that the work does not fly out. It is also necessary to remove chips stuck between the swells, otherwise it gives friction:

Yes, the hacksaw must be driven away from you to the part!
A little before finishing, it is necessary to stop the machine and cut off the workpiece.
11) Now you need to make the lid of the box. She is domed. We adjust the lid to the size of the inner diameter of the box, for which we try it on:

12) We make the inside of the lid dome-shaped, forming it with a semicircular cutter:

13) When the inner part of the lid is ready, we proceed to the formation of the outer part with a handle: