Why myrtle does not bloom what to do. How to rejuvenate anthurium at home. Houseplant flowering

Myrtle is an ideal home plant for lovers of peace, silence, connoisseurs of harmony. The shrub is compact, evergreen, highly decorative and also has healing properties. We will learn how to properly care for myrtle at home, find out all the subtleties and nuances of the content of this wonderful plant.

Myrtle is an evergreen shrub small size, originally from the numerous Myrt family. The homeland of the plant is the warm regions of the Mediterranean; myrtle is also found in tropical and subtropical zones.

In our country, the plant can be cultivated in open ground - but only in the south, in the Crimea, in the Caucasus. In most of the territory of Russia, it is better to grow thermophilic myrtle at home, in a pot on a windowsill.

In greenhouse conditions, the bush grows especially strongly, sometimes reaching two meters in height. In a pot, of course, it is unlikely to reach this size.

External characteristic

In myrtle, both leaves and flowers are decorative. Its foliage is rather small, but abundant. Individual leaves have an ovoid elongated shape, a rich dark green shade and glossy shine.

Flowers are located either in the axils of the leaves singly, or are collected in small brushes. There is always an even number of petals: either four or six. More often, myrtle has the usual structure of flowers, but hybrid varieties are also double. Most flowers grow at the top, as the lighting is the best there. The flowers are either white or pink in color. In addition, myrtle has fruits - and they are edible. Black berries form when the buds have faded.

The aroma emanating from the leaves and flowers of the plant has soothing properties, helps to relax, rest. The scent glands are located on the leaves of the flower - they can be seen even with the naked eye.

Note that myrtle is a poisonous plant, but to a small extent. For sensitive and allergy-prone individuals, prolonged inhalation of the scent of its leaves can cause headaches and nausea.

Types, varieties

Let's get acquainted with the most common in indoor growing species and varieties of myrtle.

Ordinary

The most common variety in our country, literally called Communis. This type of myrtle grows up to half a meter in height, but when grown in open ground and in a greenhouse, it can reach large sizes. The plant is evergreen, has fine leathery foliage, shiny and decorative.

Variegated

The foliage of this plant is more decorative due to its variegation, spotting. On the surface of the leaves, you can see stripes, spots, dots of an interesting amber shade.

The flowers of variegated myrtle are also beautiful: although they are small, they have a wonderful beige and white shade, decorative golden stamens. In addition, the flowers also smell very nice. Ideal for home cultivation.

Large-leaved

This species is distinguished by especially pronounced medicinal and antibacterial properties. In the fight against colds, angina, flu, ARVI, large-leaved myrtle can provide invaluable help. In addition, the plant is capable of disinfecting indoor air, killing pathogenic microbes and sticks in it.

In height, this myrtle reaches 3-4 meters, that is, it is not cultivated in domestic conditions. The leaves are large, pointed, the flowers are snow-white with pronounced golden stamens.

Growing conditions

We will find out in what conditions myrtle should be grown at home.

Location and lighting

It is better to grow myrtle under the condition of abundant bright lighting. The plant is able to tolerate direct sunlight, but in summer, with especially scorching heat, it is still better to shade. In the shade, the plant, although it can survive, will not bloom. Thus, the window sill on the south or west side of the house will be the best choice of place for this plant.

Temperature and drafts

Myrtle grows well in cool conditions, despite its southern origin. A moderate air temperature is what you need: the range from +18 to +23 degrees is suitable. But in winter, you need to keep the plant in a cold room, at a temperature no higher than + 6-8 degrees. This measure will ensure the lush bloom of myrtle in the next season.

An adult plant is not afraid of drafts and cool breezes of air. On the contrary, frequent airing will benefit the myrtle, in addition, it will help spread the healing phytoncides exuded by the plant throughout the house. In the summer, you can take the plant out to the balcony, to the garden: moist, clean air will only benefit the plant.

Soil composition

The following soil composition is optimal for growing myrtle:

• sod land;
• peat;
• humus;
• river sand.

All of the listed components are taken in equal proportions.

Features of home care

We will find out what kind of care myrtle needs at home.

Watering

The plant needs timely watering in sufficient volume. Myrtle loves moisture very much and will not last long without it. During the growing season, keep the soil in the pot constantly moist.

In addition to direct watering of the soil, the leaves of the plant also need moisture: they must be periodically sprayed. You can arrange shower procedures from time to time. Showers and sprays are needed mainly in the summer heat. In winter, these procedures are not required, and even harmful.

When the temperature drops by autumn, the number and frequency of watering should be reduced. But the drying out of the earthen coma, in any case, it is important not to allow: in the dried soil, the myrtle will throw off all the foliage, it may dry up itself. The transition to the "reduced rate" should be gradual, starting in the fall.

The other extreme is also undesirable - waterlogging. This can lead to decay of the roots, so make sure that there is no stagnant moisture in the pot. Use soft and warm water.

Top dressing

The introduction of additional nutrition is necessary for myrtle for a prosperous existence. During the growing season, top dressing is applied once every couple of weeks; in winter, the plant does not need additional nutrition. You can use complex minerals intended for flowers.

If you want to enjoy the lush flowering of myrtle, use mainly phosphate fertilizers. And for evergreen bonsai, use nitrogenous compounds.

Pruning

In our country, common myrtle is most often grown at home - and unlike some other varieties, it tolerates pruning remarkably. Even from a non-flowering plant, with proper pruning, it is quite possible to get a neat tree like a bonsai.

When cutting off the top of the myrtle, keep in mind that it will acquire the classic fan-shaped bush shape. And by cutting off exactly the lateral shoots, you can end up with a lush graceful tree.

When pruning, the trunk of the plant should not be heavily exposed, it is necessary to leave more side shoots on it. And for flowering, not too strong pruning is important: carried away, you can radically remove flower buds.

Transfer

Since myrtle does not grow too quickly, it can stay in one pot for one year. He does not need an annual transplant, unlike many other plants. However, sooner or later, but myrtle old pot "outgrows" and needs a new "home". We add that young plants are transplanted every year for the first three to five years.

It is recommended to transplant in early spring - before sap flow begins after winter. Use a standard substrate of turf, peat, and humus, and don't forget the mandatory drainage layer. The pot must be selected only a couple of centimeters in diameter larger than the previous one.

Reproduction

At home, myrtle can be propagated both by seeds and cuttings. The first method is long-term, but if there are no cuttings, it is irreplaceable. If there is a choice, then propagation by cuttings is preferable: it is simpler, more efficient and faster. Read more about both methods below.

Seeds

In this case, the loss of the varietal characteristics of the plant is possible, since sometimes the seeds are collected from hybrid bushes. It is necessary to understand this risk when deciding on seed reproduction. Note that mortality reproduces well only on condition of fresh seeds - they have the best germination capacity.

Before planting, inspect the seeds and select the strongest ones, free from damage and rot. Free the planting material from the pericarp, then rinsing for disinfection in a solution of potassium permanganate. Be sure to dry the seeds before adding them to the ground.

Pour light, nutritious soil into shallow containers. Seeds are planted to a depth of half a centimeter. From above, the container is covered with a film or glass, after which shoots should be expected in a warm, well-lit place. Protect container from direct sunlight.

The seeds need daily ventilation, but for a limited time. It is recommended to moisten the soil by spraying, avoiding overmoistening, not overdrying the soil.

After one and a half to two months, seedlings appear. After that, the film should be removed and the seedlings should be grown a little. When two leaves appear on the seedlings, they dive into separate pots. When the seedlings reach 15-20 cm in height, their tops are pinched for greater branching of the shrub. Myrtle grown from seeds will begin to bloom in the fifth year of its life.

Cuttings

This method is much simpler and more convenient than the previous one. Myrtle cuttings root easily, and you won't have to wait long for a young plant to bloom. In addition, varietal characteristics in this case are transferred completely.

It is recommended to plant myrtle cuttings either in January-February or June-July. These periods are most suitable for the rooting of the shoot and its further development and growth. Most often, however, flower growers choose winter time.

The algorithm of actions in this case is as follows:

1. Cut off an adult plant in early summer. The shoot must be taken from the top of the myrtle and must not bloom. The resulting cuttings must have 3-4 pairs of leaves.
2. The length of the cut off shoot should be from five to eight centimeters. It is recommended to cut the leaves from below.
3. Place the lower part of the cutting (1 cm) in the Phytohormone solution, thus keeping it for two hours. After the root stimulator, rinse the cutting with clean water.
4. Landing is carried out in a peat-sandy substrate. The shank is buried three nodes and placed in the ground at an angle of 45-50 degrees.
5. For more efficient and faster rooting, the cutting needs to create greenhouse conditions. To do this, cover it on top with a film or plastic bottle with the neck cut off.
6. The stalk for rooting should be placed in a warm place, out of sunlight. Regularly, the escape must be freed from shelter and ventilated.
7. After a month, the plant usually takes root. After that, the shelter is removed and the myrtle is placed on a well-lit windowsill.
8. Further care is standard, as for an adult flower. Propagation by cuttings leads to the flowering of a young shrub in 2-3 years.

Bloom

In the case of seed reproduction, myrtle blooms in the fifth year, and with cuttings - in the second or third. However, it is important to consider that in order to obtain flowers in spring, myrtle should not be cut too much. Pruning removes flower buds, so you don't have to wait for buds in the current season. If you want to enjoy blooming myrtle, we recommend postponing pruning until autumn.

Myrtle blooms in June-July. To get healthy and beautiful flowers, you must:

• properly care for the shrub;
• regularly ventilate the room or take the pot out to the balcony, into the garden.

If you care for myrtle incorrectly or keep it in inappropriate conditions, the plant may well get sick, which will reduce the likelihood of flowering to a minimum. In addition, the shrub rarely blooms when kept in a poorly ventilated room with stagnant air.

Diseases, pests and other problems

Consider what problems arise when growing myrtle and how you can deal with these problems.

Rotting roots

Myrtle often falls ill due to improper watering. It is important to prevent waterlogging of the soil and stagnant phenomena in it, while maintaining the substrate moderately moist. From an excess of water, the roots of the plant rot, as a result of which the flower sometimes dies.

Falling foliage

Dry air with insufficient watering leads to foliage falling and curling. But it is not difficult to cope with this problem: you just need to start regular spraying of the plant and resume watering it.

Leaves can also wither when water stagnates in the ground. But in this case, they will not dry out, but will acquire a moist, sluggish structure.

Poor or no growth

The causes of the problem may be different: most often these are lack of care or improper plant maintenance. However, it should be noted that myrtle, in principle, grows slowly, so you should not panic ahead of time.

Spider mite

Sometimes a spider mite attacks myrtle. This pest can be recognized by small white cobwebs that stand out against the background of the leaves. If found, wash the foliage with warm water and soap, you can also use tobacco infusion. If the mite has multiplied significantly, it is better to use insecticides: but only by taking the pot out into the open air.

Shield

This pest can also attack myrtle: dark spots on the foliage will serve as a symptom. Insecticides are ineffective against the scale insect, since the hard shield shell protects the insect well. Get rid of the pest by washing the foliage with a tobacco-soapy caustic solution. If you can see the insects well, you can also remove them mechanically - with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.

Aphid

This pest can quickly lead to drying and curling of foliage, and then to the complete loss of myrtle of its decorative effect. Aphids settle on the leaves from below, feeding on the sap of the flower. You will have to deal with this pest with insecticides, since folk methods are ineffective here. And aphids multiply too quickly.

We learned how to grow myrtle at home. The plant is famous for its beauty and medicinal properties: having started it, you will not regret it at all. Well, the tips from the article will help you more competently approach the cultivation of this wonderful homemade evergreen shrub.

Carefully caring for their home flowers, some lovers sometimes have to face the need to restore plants to life that are on the verge of death due to various reasons.

You should not get rid of a decaying or drying flower that has lost its decorative effect. If possible, you should give him a chance for rehabilitation, and in most cases, the revived plant will generously thank its owner for taking care of it.

Anthurium. General information

Anthurium (Latin Anthurium) is a genus of evergreen epiphytes of the Aronnikov family (Araceae), numbering up to 900 species. The plant has shortened stems and aerial roots, leathery leaves of various shapes and sizes, inflorescences are distinguished by inimitable originality thanks to flowers collected in elongated cylindrical cones with a bright color.

The inflorescence is equipped with a bracts in the form of a greenish veil with a pleasant matte sheen. In some countries, the anthurium is called the "flamingo flower".

Anthurium came to Europe from tropical and subtropical latitudes of the New World. The plant has an extensive range - from Mexico to the southern coast of Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay. In northern latitudes, anthurium has adapted well due to the conditions created by flower growers.

In fact, the plant is highly capricious when trying to grow it indoors. Some species are only able to take root in heated, humid greenhouses.

Anthurium is grown for the sale of its cut inflorescences, as well as to add special sophistication to the interior at home.

Care features

Caring for epiphytes in northern latitudes is not so easy. Anthurium is demanding literally everything that surrounds it. The slightest deviation from the desired conditions - and the flower is rapidly dying out.

Lighting

Anthurium "loves" diffused light or partial shade. Direct sunlight can burn the delicate leaves of the flower. It is recommended to determine the permanent location of the anthurium on the east or northwest side. In cases where the active sun still penetrates the flower, the window can be shaded with a tulle curtain.

Temperature modes

Like most tropical plants, anthurium prefers slightly increased temperature conditions, however, too dry and hot air can lead to the death of the plant. The temperature during the period of active life should not exceed +280 C and drop to +170 C. With the arrival of the first cold weather, the plant "falls asleep". The winter temperature is +15 .. + 160 C. At the end of winter, the temperature is gradually increased so that the plant has the opportunity to form buds.

Watering

Anthurium is very hygrophilous. As soon as the topsoil dries up, water it again. However, the water should not stay in the pot for long. After abundant watering, the remaining water that has dropped into the pan should be removed. Water for irrigation should be soft and chlorine-free. Frequent stagnation of moisture will lead to decay of the root system and the gradual death of the flower. By the winter period, watering is significantly reduced.

Air humidity

High humidity of the ambient air of 85-95% is optimal for the content of anthurium. It is recommended to cover flower shoots with wet moss or other hygroscopic materials, which must be constantly sprayed with water. Such care will be grateful for the roots of the plant, which will enter the phase of active growth, which cannot be achieved in room conditions with dry air masses.

An ideal humidifier for anthurium will be a room humidifier or the "Fog" system. Caring flower growers regularly wash off the accumulating dust from the leathery leaves of the plant with a sponge soaked in warm water, which suppresses decorativeness. During flowering periods, water should not be allowed to enter the inflorescences, which can cause brown spots on the stipules.

Top dressing

Mineral complex fertilizers are applied in the spring-summer period every 2-3 weeks. The most important thing is not to overdo it when fertilizing. Organic mixtures will provide a good effect. Leaf humus, cow dung, or chicken manure can be added to the topsoil in the pot. This must be done with great care so as not to harm the plant with large portions of toxins.

Priming

For growing anthurium in room conditions, the pots are filled with a loose, coarse-fibrous, well-ventilated substrate with a weak acid reaction. By adding large pieces of silicon or peat chips to the substrate, you can make a good soil that will dry out and ventilate easily. Silicon will not allow the earth to be compressed and sour. A reliable drainage from dry cuttings and a thick layer of sand or expanded clay should be laid at the bottom of the pot.

The necessary substrate for transplanting anthurium is bought in flower shops, however, you can make it yourself. This will require peat chips, chopped moss and turf in a 2: 2: 1 ratio, or from deciduous soil, peat chips, sand, charcoal and coniferous bark in equal proportions.

Transfer

In a new pot, the plant must be planted somewhat deeper than before transplanting. Thus, new roots are buried. Young plants are replanted annually to provide somewhat larger pots. After transplanting, long shoots can be tied to supports.

Anthuriums prefer plastic pots as they take on ambient temperatures, and in ceramic pots the plant can cool significantly.

Diseases and pests

Anthurium is susceptible to various types of infections and pests.

Pests can be:

The most destructive diseases are:

Root rot... With an excess of moisture, pathogenic bacteria attack the root system. The roots stop supplying nutrients to the aerial part of the plant. Stems and leaves dry out, darken and die off without a chance for salvation.

Stem rot. Overmoistening as a result of flooding the soil coma and too frequent spraying leads to rotting of the stems. The softening and darkening of the stem and leaves indicate that it will not be easy to revive such a plant. Many gardeners say that we revive such a plant in the first place, which will give chances for flower restoration.

Anthracnose. With a strong infection, the leaves begin to dry out at the edges, and with the progression of the disease, the dying anthurium cannot be saved, the entire aerial part is depleted and dies off. Resuscitation of a flower affected by anthracnose is possible only in the first stages of the disease.

Blackening of leaf tips... The disease is caused by an excess of calcium salts in the soil. By balancing the acidity and composition of the soil, the development of the disease can be stopped, however, returning the decorative effect to the plant will not be an easy matter.

Rolling leaves. The leaves give anthurium a special sophistication. Therefore, when they start to disappear, the flower takes on a pitiful appearance. The most likely reasons are dry hot air, frequent drafts, lack of or too high activity of sunlight. As soon as the root cause is eliminated, there is a chance to reanimate the anthurium at home.

How to rejuvenate anthurium

Anthurium, like most indoor plants, needs rejuvenation. The flower lives a "full" life for 4-5 years. Further, he simply needs complete resuscitation. Experienced flower growers will tell you how to save the anthurium.

Signs that an exotic pet is awaiting help include the following changes in its appearance:

If the foliage has completely disappeared, then this condition requires a thorough analysis and determine what to do next. Leaves curling into a tube, as well as a reduction in their surface area, will be a signal of insufficient lighting or too hot ambient air.

In principle, while maintaining all the necessary conditions for growing anthurium, rejuvenation will not be needed for several years. At the same time, a flower that has undergone resuscitation gives out a noticeable increase in green mass with the appearance of new inflorescences, it will confirm that the negative signs of aging have disappeared and there is no more cause for concern.

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Video: # 283. Rejuvenating anthurium, experimenting

How to rejuvenate anthurium? Useful Tips for reproduction and cultivation of anthurium.

The indoor plant anthurium is extremely popular. Its extraordinary glossy flowers attract interest, the flowering lasts for a long time, the plant can bloom in winter with sufficient light. Anthurium care is not difficult, knowing certain criteria, it is not difficult to grow and propagate it.

What does the old anthurium look like?

Anthurium eventually loses its own decorative appearance. The lower leaves die off and an unsightly "trunk" appears. But this is not the only problem. An old anthurium has both leaves and flowers small, often it does not bloom at all. The real age of anthurium may be different, but its appearance will tell you that it's time to rejuvenate the plant.

Old anthuriums look different depending on the variety and content criterion. Some give a lot of side shoots, turning into a lush bush with an abundance of small flowers

Video: Reproduction of anthurium 1 part / Anthurium - propagation part1

Anthuriums, like the rest of the Aroids, have air roots. They can be quite large or only rudimentary. They are visible under the leaves on the anthurium stem. To rejuvenate anthurium, it is necessary to simply cut off its top with leaves so as to leave 2-3 given aerial roots, and later plant it in the soil. There are several methods to root the apical stalk of anthurium.

1 method. You need to grow roots first, and then cut off the top. For this, the upper part of the crown of the bare stem is wrapped in moss, the moss is often moistened until the roots grow through the moss. This happens soon enough. After that, the stem is cut off and together with the moss lump penetrated by the roots (do not damage the roots when cutting!), Planted in a pot.

Method 2. First, make a very loose medium in a small pot. In addition to the purchased land for aroids, moss, charcoal, pine bark, vermiculite, and coconut fiber are certainly added there for looseness. Then the top is simply cut off from the anthurium with several rudiments of light roots and planted in a pot so that these roots are in the ground, but the rosette is not buried. Anthurium takes root well without any hassle. Water often, but it is important that moisture when watering immediately flows freely from the pot, as when growing orchids.

Method 3. It is allowed to simply define small tops in a glass of water so that only part of the trunk is in the water, but not the petioles of leaves. When the growth of roots becomes noticeable, it is allowed to plant the top in a pot. The disadvantage of this method is that the stalk can rot in water, especially if it is not warm enough.

It is very cool to spray such an apical stalk planted in the soil from time to time evenly with warm water. Before planting, it is allowed to dip it in a root solution or another root growth catalyst. The room temperature must be 20-25 degrees.

When to rejuvenate anthurium?

Usually, anthurium is rejuvenated during transplantation. Lateral shoots with roots (if any) are separated from the overgrown old bush, and the tops are also cut off for rooting.

But the best method would be this: for rooting, cut off the upper part of the anthurium with air roots (or all the tops, if there are several of them), but do not touch the stem with the roots in the pot. After that, watering should be reduced, since there are no leaves and the plant has nothing to evaporate water with. After some time, lateral rosettes of leaves will begin to appear, which over time are allowed to be divided and by this method to propagate the anthurium.

This rejuvenation of anthurium is more suitable for inexperienced flower growers, since in case of poor rooting of the tops, the lateral shoots will still save the plant.

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What does the old anthurium look like?

Anthurium loses its decorative appearance over time. The lower leaves die off and an ugly "trunk" is formed. But this is not the only problem. The old anthurium has small leaves and flowers, often it does not bloom at all. The real age of anthurium may be different, but its appearance will tell you that it is time to rejuvenate the plant.

Old anthuriums look different depending on the variety and conditions of detention. Some give many side shoots, turning into a lush shrub with many small flowers. Others have only one rosette of leaves, which gradually rises above the soil on a low stem, covered with remnants of old leaves.

Anthuriums, like other Aroids, have aerial roots. They can be quite large or only rudimentary. They are visible under the leaves on the anthurium stem. To rejuvenate anthurium, you just need to cut off its top with leaves so that 2-3 of these aerial roots are left, and then plant it in the soil. There are several ways to root the anthurium apical stalk.

1 way. You need to grow roots first, and then cut off the top. To do this, the upper part of the top of the bare stem is wrapped in moss, the moss is regularly moistened until the roots grow through the moss. This happens pretty quickly. After that, the stem is cut off and together with a moss lump penetrated by the roots (do not damage the roots when cutting!), Planted in a pot.

Method 2. First, prepare a very loose medium in a small pot. In addition to the purchased land for aroids, moss, charcoal, pine bark, vermiculite, coconut fiber must be added there for looseness. Then the top is simply cut off from the anthurium with several rudiments of aerial roots and planted in a pot so that these roots are in the soil, but the rosette is not buried. Anthurium takes root perfectly without any worries. Water regularly, but it is important that water flows out of the pot immediately when watering, as when growing orchids.

Method 3. The small tops can simply be placed in a glass of water so that only part of the trunk is in the water, but not the petioles of the leaves. When root growth is noticeable, the top can be planted in a pot. The disadvantage of this method is that the stalk can rot in the water, especially if there is not enough heat.

It is very useful to spray such apical cutting planted in the soil from time to time with moderately warm water. Before planting, you can dip it in a root solution or other root growth stimulant. The room temperature should be 20-25 degrees.

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Signs of the need for flower rejuvenation

On the forums of flower growers, you can find out that in some cases, without special care, the old anthurium continues to bloom at the age of more than 10 years. In others, the plant needs reanimation after 4-5 years. Therefore, it is not age that makes the flower grow old, but improper care.

Signs that a pet is asking for help and needs rejuvenation will be its appearance:

• the anthurium stalk was bare high from below;
• the flowers are crushed or the plant does not bloom;
• leaves shrink, many side shoots appear;
• The trunk is pulled out, while the leaves fall off.

In any case, if the flower has lost its decorative effect, and it is a pity to part with it, it should be reanimated. But first, analyze and determine what is missing in agricultural technology, so that henceforth the plant will please for a long time with its appearance.

Basic care requirements:

• year-round keeping in the light without direct sunlight, ensuring daylight hours for at least 12 hours;
• exclusion of any kind of drafts;
• creating a comfortable temperature for ambient air and ground;
• creation of a zone of high humidity around a flower of any kind by evaporation and spraying;
• appropriate soil and watering without stagnation of water in the pot;
• regular watering with settled soft water and plant feeding;
• timely transplantation and reproduction;
• fight against diseases and pests.

If the set of measures is completed, then the anthurium will not need rejuvenation for a long time.

Signs of improper flower maintenance

When a plant is actively gaining green mass, new inflorescences appear, there is no reason for alarm.

Read also: Chlorophytum does not require complex home care

If the leaves begin to curl into a tube, reducing the surface area, this is already a signal of a lack or excess of light and dry air. If black spots appear on the leaves, the plant is watered abundantly and stagnant zones have appeared in the substrate. The tips of the leaves begin to turn yellow, you need to raise the air temperature and eliminate the draft.

Too hard water has a detrimental effect on the plant. Therefore, when drinking water has a high content of hardness salts, it must be softened by passing it through a special filter or using the freezing method. If the water is not completely frozen, the hardness salts will remain in the liquid layer, the ice can be used for watering plants. Signs of watering with hard water are blackening of the tips of the leaves.

Yellow leaves and stems of dried flowers must be cut off with scissors, after disinfecting them in order to stop damage to the plant.

The flower dies, how to save the anthurium

The plant is stretched out and sheds its leaves intensively - you need to carefully examine the stem. This type of aroid is partially propagated by aerial roots. On the stem, you can see the designated bulges, in these places, under the conditions, the plant can take root. In nature, a drooping branch takes root into the soil even through the air, trying to reach the nutritious litter. If these processes are alive, then although the anthurium dies, it can be saved.

It is necessary to check for the presence of pests and diseases on the plant that led to the drying of the anthurium. Remove the plant from the pot and carefully examine the condition of its root system. At the same time, act carefully, the roots are fragile. Only light and fleshy roots are considered alive. Yellowed and brown weaves no longer work. They are either rotted from improper maintenance or are subject to infectious diseases... If the anthurium has dried up in the ground part, maybe there are live roots with which you can revive the bush.

It happens that a flower without external signs of root decay sheds its green outfit for six months, in order to then revive again, but this happens if the roots remain alive.

Read also: Useful properties of geranium and its use in everyday life

How to rejuvenate anthurium

• activating aerial roots;
• restoring the health of the root system.

Aerial roots will begin to develop in a warm and humid environment. Therefore, the best way would be to put the plant in a warm place and create a belt of sphagnum moss around the growth points of future roots. In a constantly damp substrate, after a week - two the plant will take root. Then this part can be cut off with a sharp disinfected knife, sprinkled with crushed charcoal or ground cinnamon.

Such a seedling can be immediately rooted in a pot, having prepared the desired composition of the tropical soil. Sphagnum will not interfere with this, the roots will break through the pores of the moss, reach the nutrient mixture.

But if the plant is very elongated, then in this way you can root another piece of the plant stem. During the regrowth of the roots, the plant is not watered, so as not to spoil the idle soil. It is only sprayed on top. As the messenger of the salvation of the anthurium, a new leaf will soon appear on the seedling. After that, create conditions for the anthurium for its early development. The plant does not need fertilizing for the first 2-3 months, the soil is filled, and there are still few roots.

In order to understand well the state of the rhizomes and understand how to reanimate the anthurium, it is necessary to carefully wash all the roots, and they are very fragile. Then cut out the decayed and brown parts. If there are growth points on the light roots, they will be visible. Place clean, disinfected and dried roots in a pot with a drainage layer and suitable nutrient soil. The capacity of the dishes should correspond to the size of the root system. If there are few roots left, then the container should be small.

Plant the plant according to all the rules and wait for the result. Such work may not be required if only the ground part of the anthurium dies, the roots remain viable. Then, after cutting off the top for separate rooting, the entire pot is left at rest in a warm and bright place. After some time, young shoots should appear, which can subsequently be transplanted. This is also one of the ways how to rejuvenate anthurium.

Read also: Exploring the different ways of breeding Ahimenes

A significant role in the revival of plants is played by the subsequent care for them, as for a loved one who is recovering from a serious illness.

The composition of the soil for rooting anthurium

First of all, you should know for sure that any disease brought in with the ground can be the last straw for a weakened plant. Whatever composition is prepared, it should be disinfected in any way. The final processing should be carried out with permanganate, after which the clod of earth is dried.

Recommendations for adding a large amount of sphagnum moss are correct, in addition to moisture retaining properties, it is also bactericidal. The danger is that if the ground is dry from above, the moss near the root retains moisture, so there is a danger of over-watering the plant. Perlite and vermiculite keeps moisture well in the soil, giving it away if necessary. Ground charcoal makes the substrate porous and creates nourishment centers for the plant. The bark, necessarily, high-moor peat. leafy substrate provide the necessary acidity. Sand is a source of silicic acid. A small amount of biohumus fills the composition with useful microflora. All these substances are vital in the composition of the soil. Vermiculite is good to use as a top filling so that moisture from the pot evaporates less.

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Reproduction of anthurium by dividing the mother bush

Most often, reproduction is carried out during the spring transplant of anthurium into new containers. Gently remove an adult bush from the pot, shake off the soil from it, free the root system. Try to untwist the roots so that you can divide them equally. Use a sharp, clean knife to divide the rhizome in two. Treat places of cuts and root breakages with crushed activated carbon... Plant each part of the anthurium separately.

Next, follow all the rules for planting a plant in the ground. Don't forget drainage! The pot should be small and the soil should be loose and nutritious. All roots should be covered with earth, and the rosettes of leaves should rise above the ground. The soil must be sufficiently moistened, but not wet, otherwise the young seedlings will rot.

Reproduction of anthurium using side shoots

Stem shoots with air roots are separated from the plant with a clean sharp tool and rooted in a container filled with soil, perlite or clean wet sand under a film. The greenhouse must be periodically ventilated, when it dries up - moisten the substrate.

When roots and leaves appear in seedlings, they are transplanted into pots to a permanent place.

Propagation of anthurium by cuttings

To propagate anthurium by cuttings, take an apical cutting with one leaf and several air roots. Such an escape takes root very quickly. Rooting is carried out in the same way as with the help of lateral shoots. The method is described in the previous paragraph.

Reproduction of anthurium by seeds

Buying anthurium seeds in the store is problematic. There they sell already formed specimens of all kinds of anthuriums. But if you want to definitely get an anthurium hybrid with the help of your seeds, you can try. Just remember that this is a long and laborious process. To do this, during flowering, it is necessary to artificially pollinate the anthurium. Take a cotton swab or clean brush and periodically transfer pollen from one ear of blossoming to another. With 2 or 3 specimens, cross-pollination can be carried out. Then the result will be higher. Carry out the pollination procedure several times over two to three days.

You are waiting for the anthurium fruit - berries - to appear on the cobs. If you succeed, wait for them to ripen. Each berry contains from one to four seeds. The seeds will ripen in about nine to ten months. Carefully remove the ripe fruit from the inflorescence. Remove the seeds from the pulp of the berries and rinse them with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Dry slightly and sow immediately in a plastic container with a lid. The seeds deteriorate very quickly and become unsuitable for germination. Use a loose substrate with a thin layer of perlite as soil. Spread the seeds evenly on the surface of the substrate, press them lightly with a spoon. Close container tightly. Place it in a warm, bright place on a windowsill. In a few days (10 - 15) your shoots should appear.

Your greenhouse needs to be ventilated occasionally. Two months later, when the first two or three leaves appear on the seedlings, they dive into disposable cups with suitable soil. As the young anthurium grows, it is transplanted into a suitable pot. The flowering of such an anthurium can be expected only in three to four years.

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Types and varieties

Of the 900 species of plants of the genus Anthurium, 3 are cultivated under artificial conditions: Anthurium Andre, Anthurium Scherzer and Anthurium Khrustalny.

Anthurium Andre

It is characterized by a shortened trunk, to which, with the help of long (up to 35 cm) and curved cuttings, large (25-30 cm with a width of 8 to 13 cm) oval-lanceolate leaves are attached. When flowering, it forms an inflorescence - an ear up to 10 cm long of yellow shades, surrounded by a bracts of red, pink, salmon or white tones.

The species is the ancestor of dozens of varieties that differ in the color of the bracts. On the basis of this feature, it is customary to combine them into groups. Indoor conditions, white and red varieties are most often grown.

• White Champion, White Champion, Sumi and the white-pink variety Princess Amalia Elegance are popular among white varieties.
• From the group of reds - Dakota, Sierra Magic and Turenza.

Scherzer's Anthurium

It stands out among its relatives by a spirally twisted ear, surrounded by a large red-orange bracts and leaves on long (6-25 cm) cylindrical petioles.

The leaf blades are elongated (linear or lanceolate), pointed, with a blunt or wedge-shaped base, colored in dark shades of green and pubescent. The top side is glossy, the bottom is matte.

Popular varieties:

• Lacetti with salmon shades bedspread;
• Graphitti with light, red speckled bract;
• Hawaii with a 2 or 3 color bedspread;
• Alexia Blue with a bracts of gentle, sky-blue tones.

Anthurium Crystal

It is appreciated for the beauty of long-petiolate oval leaves of dark green color with light veins. The ear is greenish yellow.

In indoor conditions, varieties are grown:

• Hooker, with large green, with small black spots, leaves and purple or dirty purple flowers.
• Majestic, with beautiful dark green velvety and textured foliage laced with olive veins.
• Climbing, with creeping or clinging shoots bearing oval-elongated leathery leaves. The decorativeness of this variety is provided by attractive-looking fruits - berries in shades of orange, red, purple and white.

Anthurium flower - cultivation features

The homeland of anthurium is the tropical forests of the American continent, where there is a lot of light, warm and humid. Therefore, the flower needs conditions that are as close to natural as possible. This is the key to its comfortable existence indoors.

Most farmed species slow down their vegetation in the fall and rest in the winter, needing coolness and short daylight hours.

Anthurium care at home

The flower is easy to grow.

Caring for him consists in watering, feeding and infrequent transplants.

Lighting, temperature control

Anthuriums love bright, diffused light. In direct sunlight, its flowers and leaves fade. Lack of light leads to excessive stretching and exposure of the shoots.

In addition to good lighting, the plant needs warm air. The flower is comfortable at room temperatures from 22 to 25 ° C. A slight (17-20 ° C) coolness is allowed at night.

The flower does not tolerate stagnant air and drafts.

Soil requirements

For growing anthurium, a nutritious, light, loose and moisture-absorbing substrate with a neutral medium (5.5-6.0) is suitable. As a basis, you can take purchased soil for azaleas with the addition of broken brick or perlite. You can also prepare the potting soil yourself.

There are several options for its composition:

• refined high-moor peat, leaf soil, sand, crushed and pre-steamed bark of coniferous trees, crushed charcoal (2: 2: 1: 0.5: 0.5);
• rotted horse manure, fibrous peat, pine bark, fine pumice (1: 1: 1: 1);
• expanded clay, fibrous peat, pine bark (1: 1: 1);
• peat, finely chopped sphagnum, sod land (2: 2: 1);
• peat, coconut fiber, pine bark, charcoal, chopped sphagnum moss (1: 1: 1: 0.5: 1).

Before use, to avoid root infections and damage, the substrate is disinfected.

Watering and moisture

Anthurium equally badly tolerates a lack and excess of moisture, therefore, a correctly selected irrigation regime is important for it.

• In the heat of summer and in winter, in a heated room, the flower is often watered. The frequency of moistening is determined by the drying of the topsoil.
• In winter, with artificial lengthening of daylight hours and keeping the flower warm, the moisture regime is not changed.
• In preparation for rest (autumn), watering is gradually reduced, reducing it to a minimum for winter (once a month).

Humidification is carried out with warm (2-3 degrees above the ambient temperature), settled or pre-boiled water, under the roots.

Top dressing and fertilization

During active growth and flowering (spring and autumn), anthurium is fed 2 times a month, alternating the use of organic and mineral fertilizers... As mineral additives, special products for orchids are used.

Anthurium responds well to weekly foliar dressing any complex fertilizer.

Anthurium transplant

Anthurium needs transplants, the frequency of which is determined by its age:

• Young (up to 4 years old) forms grow rapidly and therefore need an annual transplant, including replacing the container with a slightly larger one.
• Adult specimens are transplanted once every 2-3 years.

The reasons for transplanting an adult flower are:

• complete filling of the pot space with roots;
• acidification of the soil;
• diseases of the root system.

In most cases, anthurium transplantation is carried out by the transshipment method. The exception is plants with diseased roots.

Before the procedure, the flower is watered abundantly. The earth ball must be completely saturated with moisture.

After that:

• a drainage layer is placed on the bottom of the container;
• about a third of the volume of the pot is covered with soil;
• an earthen lump with a plant is placed in the center of the container, the voids are filled with the remaining substrate.

The transplanted anthurium is placed in the shade for 3-4 days.

Transplantation of diseased plants is carried out after the preliminary release of the roots from the ground, their examination and removal of unhealthy areas.

To grow anthurium, plastic or glass wide shallow containers are used.

It is better not to use ceramic pots: Anthurium roots grow into their surface.

Dormant period

From the end of autumn and throughout the winter, the anthurium has a rest.

At this time, active work is going on at the cellular level. The plant forms flower buds. The decorativeness of the future flowering depends on their quantity and quality. This is why it is so important to ensure this period for this flower.

For bookmark flower buds you need coolness and short daylight hours.

When kept indoors, these conditions are created artificially:

• in the fall, the flower is transferred to a cooler place;
• gradually reduce the intensity of watering;
• stop feeding.

Reproduction of anthurium

The discussed plant is also known among flower growers under the name "male happiness". And you always want more happiness! Anthurium reproduces by seeds and vegetatively.

Growing from seeds is difficult, since planting material is very rare on sale. Self-production is long and does not guarantee germination. Therefore, anthurium is propagated by seeds extremely rarely - only to obtain new hybrids.

Vegetative propagation is easier and faster. It allows you to get new plants with all the characteristics of the maternal form.

It is carried out using:

• cuttings;
• root growth;
• layering;
• dividing the bush.

Cuttings

The most common method is to grow anthurium and their apical and stem cuttings. They are harvested in spring and summer, cutting off the side shoots.

• The tops of shoots up to 10 cm long with 1-2 pairs of leaves are used as apical cuttings. The rest of the branch is freed from foliage and divided into 5-8 cm pieces. These are stem cuttings.
• Apical cuttings are rooted in settled water at room temperature or a substrate consisting of perlite and clean sand, covering the containers with a transparent airtight material.
• Stem - in wet sand, perlite or moss, covering containers with glass or film.
• For the growth of roots, cuttings need heat (from 20 ° C) and light. I air the plantings daily. The soil is moistened as it dries.

If these conditions are met, the roots are formed in 3 weeks. After the leaves appear, young plants are transplanted into separate containers and looked after as adults.

Aerial roots are formed in the upper part of the shoots of some anthurium species. Their presence greatly simplifies the procedure. Such a stalk is planted immediately with the soil mixture.

Reproduction by root shoots

An adult plant actively grows lateral shoots, often extending immediately from the rhizome. This is the root growth. In spring or summer, it can be carefully detached and planted in separate containers filled with substrate.

Layers or side shoots

In comparison with the previous options, it is a less laborious, but more time-consuming method of obtaining new plants.

To carry it out, part of the anthurium shoot is freed from leaves and covered with wet sphagnum, covered with plastic wrap on top.

Roots are formed under the moss layer within 3-4 months. The shoot site is separated and planted in an individual pot.

Dividing the bush

Adult and overgrown bushes are subject to division. It is carried out from the second half of February to May, often combined with a transplant. The method is also good as a rejuvenating procedure.

If at this time anthurium blooms, then the peduncles are cut, which will significantly reduce the loss of strength and accelerate the adaptation of the plant.

To carry out the manipulation, several sequential actions are performed:

1. The abundantly watered flower is removed from the container;
2. The roots are freed from the ground, straightened, untwisted and examined. All sick and questionable areas are cut out. Sections are disinfected with crushed coal.
3. With a sharp tool, the rhizome is divided into several (from 2 to 5) parts with roots. Each is planted in a separate container.

Pests

Anthurium, like other indoor plants, is susceptible to pest attacks. The greatest danger is posed by rapidly breeding sucking insects: aphids, scale insects, spider mites and mealybugs.

Pests settle on the surface of leaves and shoots, feed on plant juices, causing it to turn yellow and dry.

Insects are washed off with soapy water. The processing is carried out several times. In case of poor performance, insecticides are used.

Possible diseases

With gross and prolonged violations of conditions of detention and improper care, anthurium weakens and often gets sick. There are quite a few diseases to which it is susceptible, but this is not a reason for refusing to grow or treat it.

• Anthracnose (fungal infection): accompanied by the appearance of red or brown spots on the leaves and blackening of their tops. Leaves with signs of the disease are removed. The plant is washed under running water and treated with any fungicide. In the absence of positive results within a week, the flower is destroyed. The pot is disinfected.
• Gray rot affects the shoots, rapidly spreading to the leaves. Sick areas are removed. Flower processed chemical preparations according to the instructions at least 3 times.
• Root rot is manifested by discoloration and subsequent rapid wilting of the leaves. When transplanting on diseased roots, a light liquid (pus) is visible. At an early stage, this disease is fairly easy to treat. It is enough to reduce watering and place the flower in a warm place.
• Brownish spots on the leaves are a sign of rust damage. Treatment consists in removing damaged leaves and repeated (after 3-4 days) application of fungicides or alcohol solutions for 2 weeks.

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How to rejuvenate anthurium? The indoor plant anthurium is very popular. Its unusual glossy flowers attract attention, flowering lasts a long time, and the plant can bloom in winter with sufficient light. Anthurium care is not difficult, knowing certain rules, it is not difficult to grow and propagate it. What does the old anthurium look like? Anthurium loses its decorative appearance over time. The lower leaves die off and an ugly "trunk" is formed. But this is not the only problem. The old anthurium has small leaves and flowers, often it does not bloom at all. The real age of anthurium may be different, but its appearance will tell you that it is time to rejuvenate the plant. Old anthuriums look different depending on the variety and conditions of detention. Some give many side shoots, turning into a lush shrub with many small flowers. Others have only one rosette of leaves, which gradually rises above the soil on a low stem, covered with remnants of old leaves. How to rejuvenate anthurium? Anthuriums, like other Aroids, have aerial roots. They can be quite large or only rudimentary. They are visible under the leaves on the anthurium stem. To rejuvenate anthurium, you just need to cut off its top with leaves so that 2-3 of these aerial roots are left, and then plant it in the soil. There are several ways to root the anthurium apical stalk. 1 way. You need to grow roots first, and then cut off the top. To do this, the upper part of the top of the bare stem is wrapped in moss, the moss is regularly moistened until the roots grow through the moss. This happens pretty quickly. After that, the stem is cut off and together with a moss lump penetrated by the roots (do not damage the roots when cutting!), Planted in a pot. Method 2. First, prepare a very loose medium in a small pot. In addition to the purchased land for aroids, moss, charcoal, pine bark, vermiculite, coconut fiber must be added there for looseness. Then the top is simply cut off from the anthurium with several rudiments of aerial roots and planted in a pot so that these roots are in the soil, but the rosette is not buried. Anthurium takes root perfectly without any worries. Water regularly, but it is important that water flows out of the pot immediately when watering, as when growing orchids. Method 3. The small tops can simply be placed in a glass of water so that only part of the trunk is in the water, but not the petioles of the leaves. When root growth is noticeable, the top can be planted in a pot. The disadvantage of this method is that the stalk can rot in the water, especially if there is not enough heat. It is very useful to spray such apical cutting planted in the soil from time to time with moderately warm water. Before planting, you can dip it in a root solution or other root growth stimulant. The room temperature should be 20-25 degrees. When to rejuvenate anthurium? Usually, anthurium is rejuvenated during transplantation. Side shoots with roots (if any) are separated from the overgrown old bush, and the tops are also cut off for rooting. But the best way would be this: for rooting, cut off the upper part of the anthurium with air roots (or all the tops, if there are several of them), but do not touch the stem with roots in the pot. Reduce watering after this, since there are no leaves and the plant has nothing to evaporate moisture. After a while, lateral rosettes of leaves will begin to appear, which over time can be separated and in this way anthurium can be propagated. This rejuvenation of anthurium is more suitable for inexperienced growers, since in case of unsuccessful rooting of the tops, the lateral shoots will still allow the plant to be preserved.

The myrtle tree is one of the most attractive and interesting indoor plants. Pleasant aroma, beautiful bloom, ease of formation, high decorativeness - myrtle has these advantages. Home care is organized according to certain rules. You will learn about them from this article.

The myrtle family is well known among flower growers. There are about 10 varieties of myrtle in total. The homeland of the plant is the Mediterranean. Grows in subtropical climates. In natural conditions, it is a shrub or tree up to 3 meters high. When grown in an apartment, it reaches 60 cm.

The leaves are small, shiny, leathery, oval, dark green. When rubbed in hand, they give off a pleasant spicy aroma. Main part essential oils concentrated in small veins. The flowers are small on long stalks, with five petals and many stamens. The color is white or pale pink. Fruits are round small berries of intense blue color.

Interesting information! Myrtle leaves contain phytoncides. They improve and disinfect the air in the apartment. Leaves and dried fruits are used as spices. The most famous myrtle spice is clove.

The subtleties of growing

Complete home care for myrtle is organized in accordance with a number of rules. Myrtle is considered a capricious plant, often refuses to bloom or sheds leaves. Creating optimal conditions for growth and flowering helps to avoid this.

1. Lighting and site selection. It easily tolerates the direct rays of the sun, but loves diffused light more. In the heat, they shade it. It blooms only when there is enough light. The optimal location is the window sills of windows facing west or east. In summer, the flower is rearranged to fresh air. Provide adequate lighting in winter.
2. Temperature. In the summer season they are kept at 18-20 ° C. In winter, the plant needs coolness. Myrtle is rearranged on a glazed balcony or loggia with a temperature of at least 6-8 ° C. After a good rest, the myrtle blooms magnificently and for a long time. When wintering in a room, the flower is well watered and systematically sprayed. This helps to avoid leaf fall, but does not guarantee flowering.
3. Humidity. It grows better in high humidity. It reacts to spraying with warm, well-settled water by amicably releasing new shoots. The need for moisture increases during periods of increased growth. At this time, the procedure is carried out daily. Additionally, air humidifiers and trays filled with water are used.
4. Watering. Water the plant often - as soon as the topsoil begins to dry out. In winter, the need for water is less, but the soil cannot be completely dried out. Stable soil moisture is maintained all year round... Do not allow water to stagnate at the bottom of the pot.
5. The soil. The soil for myrtle is chosen nutritious, not heavy, of moderate acidity. A mixture of peat, humus and turf with the addition of sand or perlite is best suited.
6. Top dressing. During the period of active growth, fertilizing is frequent - every week. For abundant flowering, fertilizers with a high phosphorus content are chosen. Complex preparations for decorative deciduous crops are regularly used.
7. Transfer. Until the age of four, the bushes are transplanted annually. Mature trees - every 3-4 years. The optimal time is spring, before flowering. When transplanting, the root collar is not allowed to go deep. A thick drainage layer is provided at the bottom of the planting tank. The size of the pot is determined by the diameter of the crown - it should be half the size. Myrtle will not bloom in a large pot.
8. Pruning and shaping. Myrtle - indoor flowerwhich is very easy to shape. She tolerates a haircut easily, quickly starts up young shoots. Pruning of myrtle is carried out in early spring before active growth begins. The trimming method depends on the desired result. Throughout the summer, the crown of the plant is corrected by pinching too long young shoots.

Important! The lack of flowering may indicate insufficient lighting, a large pot, and stuffiness in the room. They correct the situation by daily airing the room, lowering the temperature during the rest period, transplanting into a smaller pot.

Reproduction methods

Reproduction of myrtle is not difficult even for novice florists. Young plants are obtained by cuttings and sowing seeds.

By cuttings

Cuttings are cut twice a year - in the middle of winter or summer. Semi-lignified branches are selected from the middle or lower part of the crown. The optimal length of the cutting is from 5 to 8 cm. Half of the leaves are removed from the cutting, the remaining half are cut off. The lower cut is dipped in a growth stimulator. A mixture of heteroauxin with 0.25% ascorbic acid content gives a good effect. The container is filled with a light sphagnum and sand substrate. Cuttings are placed in it at a slight angle and covered with foil. A greenhouse with cuttings is placed in a cool, shaded area.

During the rooting phase, the temperature is maintained at 16-20 ° C. The greenhouse is periodically ventilated, the level of humidity is monitored, if necessary, the soil is watered and the cuttings are sprayed. They take root quickly - no longer than a month. The seedlings are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 7 cm (a regular plastic cup will do). When the roots are completely entwined with a clod of earth, they are transferred into a larger pot. The first flowering is not earlier than 3 years later.

Seeds

Seed myrtle grows more slowly. When using seed collected from the mother plant, the characteristics of the variety may differ. Germination substrate is a mixture of peat and vermiculite. Before sowing, it is watered with a weak fungicide solution.

Myrtle seeds are scattered over the surface, covered with a very thin layer of substrate on top. The landing container is covered with glass. Maintain the temperature at 18-20 ° C, monitor the soil moisture - it can neither be overdried nor overmoistened. Every day, the glass is briefly removed, airing the greenhouse. When favorable conditions are created, seedlings appear in 1-2 weeks. Dive into separate pots in the phase of 2 true leaves. Flowering - not earlier than 5 years of age.

Important! Young seedlings grow very slowly. To accelerate growth, they provide quality care and regular feeding.

Diseases, Problems and Pests

Young myrtle rarely gets sick. Mature and old bushes are less resistant to pests and negative factors.

• Aphids and scale insects. They attack the plant with insufficient moisture. Correct the conditions and carry out the treatment with anticoccidal agents.
• Spider mite. Appears when there is insufficient soil moisture. Myrtle is treated with insecticides.
• Fungi and putrefactive bacteria. Their appearance provokes constant waterlogging of the soil. The plant is transplanted by removing the affected parts.
• Yellow, dull leaves with curled edges. Sign of excessive lighting.
• Chopping leaves, pulling stems. The reason is poor lighting.
• Falling leaves. Increased temperature and dry air in winter or stagnant water in the root system.

Growing myrtle at home is challenging but exciting. Having mastered shaping, you can give your myrtle any shape.

In our latitudes, myrtle appeared from the regions of the Mediterranean and the Middle East, therefore its name in translation from Greek means "incense", and the second name - Arrayan - means "aromatic" in Arabic. This evergreen plant has such names for a reason. Even in antiquity, it was noted that in addition to decorative myrtle, it has many useful qualities due to the presence of essential oils, which have a strong antimicrobial effect. Arrayana leaves have a healing effect not only in the composition of medicines and cosmetic preparations, but also simply by releasing phytoncides into the air.

Myrtle blooms very beautifully: the whole tree is covered with boiling white flowers, sometimes with a slight pinkish tint. But such a sight is not always pleasing to the eye of the owner, and this happens for several reasons.

At first, myrtle is a plant of southern latitudes, so it is used to bright sunlight. At home, the tree will feel most comfortable on the southern windowsill, where it can receive sunbathing in abundance. However, from direct rays it is better to shade it with a curtain. In such conditions, the Arrayan will delight you with wonderful flowers, but placed on the west, east or north side, most likely, it will not bloom at all. In addition, it must be borne in mind that the flower does not tolerate any abrupt change in illumination. For example, if you decide to move it from the north side to the south, then you need to do this in several stages, increasing the amount of light gradually, first moving the myrtle to the east or west windowsill.

Secondly, the flower has a real need for fresh air. Indeed, in its native land, it grows on the street all year round, so small drafts for myrtle are not only not dangerous, but even desirable. In the warm season, the plant generally needs to be kept outdoors if possible: on an open veranda, balcony or in the garden. And then abundant flowering is guaranteed.

Thirdly, this visitor from the subtropics constantly needs a humid microclimate, which is ensured by regular watering and spraying using soft, preferably rain or melt water. For the winter period, moisture should be reduced to 1 time per week, and spraying can be discarded if the tree is in a cool room. The optimum temperature for the resting period should be 8-10 ° C.

Fourthly, the crown of a tree is usually customary to form at the beginning of the growing season, that is, in spring, but in this case, flowering will definitely not come. If you want to admire the blooming Arrayan, prune it after the flowers have fallen, around August.

For lovers of light and natural aromas, myrtle is best suited: it helps to improve the air in the room, to establish the atmosphere, and its leaves are used as a medicine. It is also grown to create a bonsai-style tree. And among the variety of varieties, you can choose suitable for both beginners and experienced flower growers: leaving is not difficult, but you should still remember some features.

Myrtle - plant features

Myrtle is native to the Mediterranean, but it also grows in North Africa (in Europe, it freezes after the first frost). Depending on the variety, a thermophilic plant in the form evergreen shrub in these parts it reaches a height of 3.5 m, due to which it is grown as a garden crop in tubs or in the open field. The bush is even pruned to give the crown the desired shape.

A bright representative of the family is common myrtle. It is a shrub up to 2 m high with dark green leathery leaves and small white or pink fragrant flowers. The fruits are edible black berries on which the calyx is attached.

After flowering on the myrtle, dark fruits of a round or elliptical shape with seeds are formed

There are many varieties of plants in the myrtle family. Interestingly, eucalyptus is also ranked among it. However, only a few varieties are suitable for home. Caring for them is simple, but they need to create acceptable conditions, for example, high humidity, ventilation and regular watering.

Indoor varieties

Despite the modest variety of suitable varieties, the choice of myrtle for the home is nevertheless further limited by supply. The optimal way out is not buying in stores, but growing cuttings from plants that have taken root with friends. If there is a choice, then it is better to pay attention to the varieties described below. They differ in the shape and size of leaves, flower, fruit, and are also considered the most unpretentious and compact varieties:

1. Alhambra - dense, leathery leaves, white fruits and flowers.
2. Microfilla is a bonsai with small leaves.
3. Flore Pleno - is distinguished by fluffy, double flowers.
4. Tarentina is a fast-growing tree with small leaves and abundant flowering (for example, Tarentina Granada, Tarentina Variegada, etc.).
5. Boethica is a slow-growing tree, its trunk twists over time and has a rich shade of cinnamon.

It is noteworthy that all the listed varieties belong to the common myrtle species.

Photo gallery: home species of myrtle

Myrtle Alhambra is distinguished by abundant blooming and fragrant fruits
The easiest way to find a variety on sale is Microfilla Double flowers - perhaps the only thing that distinguishes Flore Pleno from other varieties
Myrtle Tarentina Variegada is decorated with elegant leaves with a white edging Myrtle Boethica has large leaves, larger than other species (6-7 cm, while the standard is 1-2 cm), with a pointed end

According to experts, any variety of common myrtle is suitable for bonsai.

Myrtle lends itself well to forming, so it is relatively easy to grow it in the bonsai style

But the most original trees will come from the Boethica and dwarf Microfilla varieties: it is convenient to form their crown and trunk because of the slow growth and pliability of the shoots.

Planting and transplanting

It is best to transplant an adult myrtle once every 3-4 years, and young plants are transplanted annually in spring. When transplanting myrtle, do not deepen the root collar of the plant: this can lead to various diseases or decay. A good drainage layer must be laid on the bottom of the pot.

General rules for transplanting myrtle:

1. Plants up to 3 years old are transplanted every year into a pot, 2-3 cm wider (enough for the root system to fit) than the previous one, the roots are not cleared from the ground, they are reloaded and some fresh soil is added. And also the capacity for transplanting can be selected based on the size of the plant's crown: in terms of volume, the pot should be half the volume of the plant's crown.
2. Plants after 3 years are transplanted as they grow, when the roots completely entangle the earth ball.
3. The transplant is done in the spring, before flowering.
4. Young myrtle can be transplanted after flowering.
5. Every year, in adult plants, the top layer of the soil is changed, which is not entangled in roots, cutting it off carefully with a knife and filling in a fresh portion. During this procedure, the root system is not treated and generally try not to affect.
6. Myrtle has sensitive and delicate roots, so they cannot be injured during transplantation.
7. It is better to choose a ceramic and light pot so that the leaves do not get burned when its edges are heated.

If the above rules apply to both adults and the younger generation, then the requirements below are only suitable for a tree older than 3 years:

1. Prepare the soil.
2. Free the root system from some of the old soil, leaving a small ball to fill the pot with more than half of the new soil.
3. Place in a new pot. In order not to damage the roots, you can rinse them in warm water.
4. The plant is not deepened, for this they make a mark of the old ground level on the trunk.
5. Fill the voids with new soil.
6. Leave the plant alone for a few days.
7. Watering is allowed in 7-15 days.
8. Fertilize myrtle no earlier than 1 month after transplanting.

Young myrtle trees are transplanted in the same way, but leaving more soil on the roots and choosing soil with a different composition: a mixture of peat and coarse sand

For adult plants, obtain a slightly acidic ready-made soil or mix:

• peat;
• sod land;
• coarse sand.

Mirtu recommend slightly acidic soil Ph 6-6.5, all universal purchased soils have such acidity. The main thing is that the soil is loose, it allows water to pass well. The water should not stagnate. Good drainage is imperative to the bottom. Water for irrigation and spraying must be defended, if it is very hard, then it can be acidified.

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Expanded clay is usually used as drainage, but perlite is considered more effective, which can be mixed into the ground. Before use, the soil is sterilized and treated with fungicidal substances to avoid fungal infections.

Myrtle care

Caring for myrtle differs little from the standard. It is important to remember that he loves warmth during periods of activity, moisture and fresh air.

Table: conditions of keeping myrtle depending on the season

Watering and feeding

When the myrtle grows and blooms, it is abundantly watered with settled water at room temperature. Chlorine is detrimental to delicate roots, even a short contact with it will lead to sad consequences. The frequency of watering depends on many factors, but its need is determined by the condition of the soil: it is not allowed to dry completely. However, excessive watering guarantees soil acidification, rotting of the roots: the tree will throw off its leaves and stop developing.

Spraying (or periodic shower) will help to cope with drooping leaves, return their elasticity and bright color. And also these procedures are the prevention of many diseases and the appearance of pests. Myrtle is sprayed during the period of activity every day or several times a day. To facilitate maintenance and to ensure a suitable air humidity, which should be high, a humidifier is placed in the room or expanded clay is placed in a tray from a pot and poured with water. Spraying gives a short-term improvement in conditions: as soon as moisture evaporates from the leaves, the myrtle will feel its lack.

The humidity can be raised by placing the pot with the plant on a pallet with wet expanded clay, just make sure that the bottom of the pot does not touch the expanded clay - that is, put the pot on a pallet, and then put them on a pallet with wet expanded clay. Also, after transplanting, keep the plant under a transparent bag. It is necessary to make a hole in it for fresh air, and make sure that mold does not form.

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The room in which the myrtle grows is regularly ventilated, taking the plant itself to another room, where it will be protected from hypothermia.

This plant needs fresh air, but it is afraid of drafts and extreme cold.

Myrtle grows in direct sunlight. However, in the midday heat in the warm season, he is provided with protection, especially when he is on an open balcony.

Fertilizers help the tree grow, but they are used with caution. If you add a little humus when transplanting into the soil, then you can forget about the ready-made compositions until summer. In other cases, the myrtle is fed with complex fertilizers in the spring, and after the beginning of flowering and until its end with nitrogen. This plant also accepts top dressing of roots or leaves in the form of spraying.

Flowering and fruiting period

Myrtle usually blooms in late spring or early summer. This period lasts about 2 months. With its beginning, the volume of watering and the frequency of spraying are increased.

In order to produce fruits, insects are needed, however, at home, pollination in this way is almost impossible., So this is done manually with a brush

With active pruning and crown formation, the myrtle stem does not bloom. If the appearance of the crown does not bother, then this process can be accelerated and intensified: then they stop pruning and apply nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers.

For intensive flowering, myrtle is planted in a cramped pot so that it does not waste energy on the growth of shoots and the development of the root system.

Dormant period

Myrth needs a dormant period in winter to gain strength for the next season of explosive growth and intense flowering. If in summer and warm spring for him the best place - balcony, loggia, outdoor garden, in winter adult plants feels better at a temperature of 6-12 ° C and without additional illumination. If the myrtle is left to winter in a warm room with normal lighting, then it is regularly sprayed, but watering is still reduced.

During the dormant period, which lasts from December to the end of February, watering is significantly reduced to 1–2 times a month and any additional feeding is excluded. For the dormant period, the plant is prepared gradually: in advance, they begin to reduce the temperature in the room and reduce the volume and frequency of watering.

But these rules do not apply to plants that are less than 3 years old: in winter they are in a warm and well-lit room with additional lighting.

Formation of the trunk and crown

To make the shape of the myrtle beautiful, it is periodically trimmed. The procedure and methods for forming a stem or crown depend on the variety, but this is always done in early spring or after flowering ends.

In the summer, it is permissible to remove a few extra branches. If you do not trim the crown of the myrtle, then it acquires a pyramidal shape.

Shoots can be bent and tied, entangling with soft wire, but with care

Pinching is relevant in spring and in young plants during the period of activity. This will make the crown wider, so it is better to cut young branches short enough.

Video: tree formation

Bonsai at home

Many people are fond of this extraordinary activity, and myrtle is perfect for the formation of bonsai. It is advisable to choose slow-growing and dwarf varieties (for example, Boethica or Microfilla). To form the crown, they regularly pinch the upper leaves, cut off unnecessary branches, preventing flowering. It is then that the crown will be lush and thick, and its shape will be compact and correspond to the given one.

So, Boethica's trunk can be directed in different directions: it is pliable, but you should not pinch it, because there will be creases

The myrtle bonsai pot should be flat and wide, with low walls. To avoid drying out the soil and add decorativeness, moss is placed on the top layer of the soil or mulched.

Inconsistency of the pot can create obstacles to the normal functioning of the root system, which will lead to the early death of the tree

Care errors

When growing myrtle, various problems arise, often associated with improper plant maintenance. Below are the most common causes of your plant's "unhealthy appearance".

Table: Improper Care: Problems and Solutions

Often you have to resort to emergency resuscitation of a plant (in particular, a dried one):

1. Remove the plant carefully.
2. Submerge its roots in warm water for several hours.
3. Place the myrtle in the pot.
4. Cover with plastic wrap.
5. Air at least 1 time per day, preventing the soil from acidifying.
6. Add compound fertilizer for ornamental plants.

When the myrtle recovers, the film must be removed. Next, you should review the terms of its containment.

Diseases and pests, treatments

Myrtle becomes vulnerable to pests when the conditions of detention are violated.

Table: list of the main pests and diseases, control measures

Disease or pest	Signs	Treatment
The plant withers. The base of the stem rots.	Does not respond to treatment.
Leaves fall. A cobweb is formed.	Acaricide treatment (Fitoverm, Aktellik, Sunmight).
The leaves turn yellow, curl up. Stopping growth.	Wash off pests with a stream of water. Hardening in cold air (taking out to a balcony or loggia for 30 minutes at a temperature of 10-15 degrees, sheltering from the wind).
Sticky leaves.	Wash off pests. Treatment with soapy water.
The leaves curl up like the stems. Light green or brownish insects appear, usually not exceeding 5–7 mm.	Wash off the pest in the shower. Treat with insecticide (Dr. Foley, Aktara, Aktellik). Cut off damaged parts.

Photo gallery: signs of affected plants

When a scutellum is damaged, a sticky liquid (the so-called pad) serves as an excellent haven for the development of a sooty fungus Leaf aphid quickly weakens young plants, sucking out their cell sap One of the main signs of the presence of a whitefly is the presence of a sticky plaque - honeydew When fungal disease plants most often the best way out is to isolate the affected plant or to destroy it.The presence of a spider mite is indicated by the presence of small white dots on the leaves (mainly on the lower side) and the presence of a thin cobweb that braids the plants (or their parts)

Reproduction of myrtle

Myrtle is propagated mainly by cuttings; reproduction by seeds is undesirable: plants lose varietal characteristics (crushing of leaves and flowers). In addition, cuttings are a more reliable method: seeds lose their ability to germinate very quickly.

Cuttings

Reproduction by cuttings should be carried out no more than twice a year: first in winter (in January-February), and then you should focus on spring or mid-summer (July). For quick rooting, you can use stimulants.

To prevent moisture evaporation, the leaves are removed from the lower part of the cutting, and the remaining ones are shortened.

Reproduction stages by cuttings:

As a rule, plants grown from cuttings bloom only in the second or third year.

Seed propagation

The myrtle tree obtained from seeds will delight you with flowers no earlier than in 4 years.

In addition, it should be borne in mind that seeds have a tendency to decrease germination after one year of storage.

How to grow myrtle from seeds:

Myrtle grown from seed grows slowly.

Seed stratification

Few people stratify plant seeds, although this is often required. So what is this "beast"?

Stratification is the preparation of a plant embryo for future germination without loss: keeping the plant in a humid environment at a low temperature and then planting it in a relatively warm soil. Without pre-cooling, the seed can simply rot in the ground.

Typically, this seed preparation is carried out as follows:

1. The seeds are soaked in warm water for 24 hours.
2. Prepare a container with wet cotton or paper tampons, on which the seeds are laid.
3. Seeds in this form are placed in the refrigerator; the temperature should be within 1–5 o C.
4. Withstand 1.5-2 months in this state.

To increase efficiency, Zircon (1 drop per 300 ml of water) is added to the water for primary soaking. This solution must be infused for at least 16 hours. It is suitable for use only for 3 days at an air temperature of 18-25 o C.

Before soaking the seeds, shake the container with the Zircon solution.

Possible problems during germination

Often, when growing plants from seeds, a number of questions arise from the category of "what to do if":

• seeds do not sprout;
• excessive condensation has caused mold;
• sprouts wither, etc.

For example, seeds may not germinate for several reasons: unviable old seed, excessively deep sowing, cold, oversaturated soil, etc. remember to drain and ventilate the greenhouse.

If mold has formed under the glass, take action immediately:

1. Reduce watering by about 30%.
2. Mulch the soil with minerals.
3. Treat seedlings, soil and glass with fungicidal substances.

Possibly, acidified soil aggravates the situation. Then chalk is added to the soil at the rate of about 50 g per 1 kg of land (it can also be replaced with wood ash in the same proportions).

In any case, try to adhere to the care recommendations to avoid problematic "what to do" later.

Exported to Europe several centuries ago, myrtle has taken root well in homes and feels great. Today there are about a hundred species of myrtle tree, of which common myrtle and all its varieties are suitable for growing at home. In order for beautiful plants with such an amazing and rich history to please the eye, a little attention should be paid to them: simple care with abundant watering.