DIY beer mug. DIY wooden beer mug - photo Dimensions of wooden mugs

Project: August 2004

This is one of the very first attempts to openly show on the web the manufacturing technology of one of its products. There was no such thing in practice before. Memories of the events of that time bring a smile today. Firstly, a carpenter with a camera is difficult to imagine then, but with a computer and Internet access is generally nonsense. Secondly, not everyone is capable of sharing their "secrets" and know-how, both then and today.

Since then, I have acquired many different things modern equipment, has developed many new technologies. AND oak mug today it would look somewhat different, and the manufacturing technology would most likely change. But in memory of the product of that time, I decided to save this master class and transfer it to the pages of the new site virtually unchanged, although on the Internet parts of the original text are found in the descriptions of many sites ...

Well, the story itself began with one order. Then still a young company "Arena" for its Arena Beer House decided to order tasting trays in which customers were served four different beers to sample. The variety you like should have been served in wooden beer mug... Then I developed the mug together with wooden tray... Small quantities of wooden mugs were made, and the tray remained in the sketches (although the manufacturing technology was also worked out).

Below, as promised, is the original description from the old site:

“It all started with talking about wine oak barrels and the like. This gave me the idea to do oak beer mug... Previously, I did not have to deal with the manufacture of mugs, so I decided to do it using my own technology. Having looked through a dozen sites about beer, I made a discovery for myself - for 50 ml of vodka, a glass of 50 ml is enough, but beer still has its own foam. therefore beer mug there must be room for foam as well. The beer fills about 3/4 of the mug. Accordingly, for 0.5 liters of beer, the mug should have a volume of about 0.8 liters.

So, to the point!

I don't know what Papa Carlo made his mug from, I decided to use a time-tested material - oak. For the manufacture of mugs it is necessary to prepare eight oak blanks measuring 150 × 60 × 15mm and one 135 × 70 × 25mm for the handle. It is necessary to trim the bars at an angle of 6 °, since the circle will have a conical shape. Yes, I almost forgot that the bottom of the beer is not poured out. The bottom of the mug is also two-layer oak. Two blanks 130 × 130 × 3mm. The direction of the texture of the first is located across the texture of the second blank. For the mug, you also need a copper strip of about 900 × 13 × 0.7mm.

If you have prepared everything and still have a desire to make an oak mug, then go ahead!

The body blank must be shaped like a trapezoid with a base of 59mm and a top of 48mm. The ends are beveled inward at an angle of 22.5 ° degrees. A special feature is that the ends are processed for a tenon-groove connection! After processing, the workpiece will look like this.

Having previously cut the bottom in the shape of an octagon (the size depends on the depth of the groove), you can start assembling the mug.In the assembled state, give the upper edge of the mug a thinner shape and round it. You also need to round off the corners at the bottom of the mug.

Now you need to make a handle for the mug. You can choose any shape. For convenience, the edges of the handle should be rounded as much as possible. Holes must be made at the ends of the handle for further attachment to the mug body.

The next step in making a mug is attaching the handle to the body. An unusual technology had to be applied here. We gird the mug with copper stripes with a printed pattern. We fix the ends of the strips on one of the planes of the mug with the help of screws threaded through oak dowels. This fastening allows you to securely attach copper and dowels to the body of the mug. Next, press the handle onto the dowels. This method makes the connection of the handle to the body of the mug secure and invisible.

I thought for a long time to make from the beautiful hardwood floorboards left over from my uncle's house, it was a pity to watch such excellent material disappear. After watching a lot of videos on the Internet on how to make a mug out of wood, I decided to make a large mug, but improved the idea a little. And I also had a piece of antler, and I figured it would make a good handle for a mug.

This mug is suitable for anything - you can cosplay a Viking to hang from your belt, you can use it for a Harry Potter butterbeer, or just to impress your friends.

Step 1: Tools and Materials

Tools:

• Circular machine
• Fraser
• Grinding machine
• Hammer

Materials:

• Solid wood flooring
• Wood glue
• Small nails without a cap
• Polyurethane
• Lots of rubber bands

Step 2: cut the floorboard

Show 3 more images

The floorboard is covered with recesses, so you first need to make a regular rectangular from the floorboard. The easiest way is to cut the tenon and groove into circular lathe, and then sanded so that no burrs remain.

After that, you must decide how many faces you want to make. Let's say there will be eight faces, we calculate the angle at which we will cut the board.

If you also decided to make an octagonal wooden beer mug, skip this paragraph. If you want to make more or fewer edges, check out my calculation. Since there are eight sides, you need to divide 360 \u200b\u200b° (the number of degrees in a circle) by 8, which gives us 45 °, then subtract 45 ° from 180 ° (the total number of degrees of all angles of the triangle) and divide the difference by 2 and get 67.5 ° (or 22.5 ° - depending on which side of the board you will measure from).

After that, we install the board on a circular table at an angle of 22.5 ° (because it will be very inconvenient to saw the board at an angle of 67.5 ° on the machine).

Now you need to decide how high the cup will be. I think 19 cm is the optimal height. Cut off eight pieces of the board at the desired angle.

Step 3: making the bottom

My mug has a deepened bottom, I really like it when you can see this notch if you lift the mug. I raised the bottom 19 mm from the base, you need to choose which height you like best. Then, on a circular machine, make a slot on each of the eight parts the same width as the thickness of the bottom you will be making. Slot depth - 6.4 mm.

Place all eight pieces together face up and glue two strips of tape and join the sides into a ring, making sure the sides fit tightly together. Place the ring on paper and trace from the inside with a pencil. Then circle another octagon around the octagon so that there is a distance of 6.4 mm between the sides of the two figures (the depth of the slot in the walls). Trace the outside perimeter of the piece of wood and cut out the bottom of the mug. Make sure the edges of the bottom fit snugly into the slots on the sides of the mug, the rubber bands will help you keep all the pieces of the mug together.

Step 4: glue the mug

You might get a little dirty at this stage. The best way gluing a mug made of wood with your own hands is to put the sides on tape, apply glue between them and on the edge of the bottom. Then slowly twist the sides into a ring, gently tapping the bottom with a hammer so that it goes into the slots. When all sides are closed in a ring, you need to wind the elastic bands outside, the more, the better. Gently remove excess glue that has come out inside and outside with a clean cloth.

Step 5: making the edge

After the glue has dried, we grind the edges, walls and the bottom edge a little on a grinding machine, at the same time getting rid of possible glue residues. After that, with a milling cone, make a bevel from the outer edge of the walls to the inner ones. Some part of the surface of the walls should remain flat so that the edge of the circle is not sharp. Sand the edges of the bevel so that there is a smooth transition from the edges of the beer mug to the inner walls.

In the photo there is a mug before sanding the bevel. Also sand the outside edge of the mug for easy drinking.

Step 6: making the handle

First, cut off a piece of the desired height for the handle of the mug from the deer antler, align the cuts grinding machine... Choose a place where you will attach the handle. To mount the handle, use the remaining trapezoidal pieces of the board from which the edges of the circle have been sawn off.

Drill a hole on the wrong side of the trapezoidal blocks to screw the handle to them, countersink these holes. Screw the horn to the blocks, adding some wood glue between them. Drill small nail holes on the beveled sides of the blocks to fit into the wood of the mug.

Glue the handle on the blocks to the mug and drive nails into the holes. Use the clamps to press the handle against the sides of the mug and wait for the glue to dry.

Step 7: finishing coat

To complete the mug, I suggest covering it with a good coat of epoxy to seal the wood. I didn't have epoxy, so I used polyurethane. I covered first inner surface with a layer of polyurethane, then impregnated a rag with it and applied an additional layer to each inner corner... The polyurethane layer on the bottom is thicker than on the walls, so the bottom is better sealed.

Then I added a few more thin layers. On the outside, I covered the mug with two layers of polyurethane. I hope you enjoyed the process as much as I did. If you have any questions, write in the comments or by e-mail. Good night everybody.

PS. You can burn something on the sides or on the bottom, waiting for your suggestions.

Do you want to make an original gift for a wedding or birthday? Or a thing that would be nice to use and take in hand, then we suggest making a wooden mug with your own hands, which will really look unusual, it will definitely be pleasant to drink any drink from such a mug.

What you need to make a wooden mug:

• Thick branch of a tree;
• Saw (electric or hand-held);
• Hammer and chisel;
• Drill;
• Joiner's glue (PVA);
• Sandpaper;
• Polyurethane varnish.

How to make a wooden mug, step by step instructions:

The first step is to find a branch suitable for the mug, the kind I often see when trees are cut on the street, there I chose a piece of a branch of the desired thickness. You will also need even thinner branches for the handle.

Cut the branch to the desired height of the mug. Remove the bark from this branch, I used a flat head screwdriver to remove most of the bark.

Now we need to divide the log into four sections, for this I used a chisel and a hammer, with the help of them I carefully split the log.

For each of the 4 parts of the circle, measure 19 mm from the bottom, make an incision in this part but so that the wall thickness remains about 9 mm on the sides. The saw makes a straight cut on a rounded object, so you need to be careful not to cut too far on the sides. Using a chisel, knock out the inner piece of wood from the top, it should break off to the notch, then continue to cut and knock out the excess from the inside of the parts of the mug until you reach the desired thickness of the mug's walls and so that they are rounded.

Using sandpaper, clean the inner parts of the mug without touching the side splits where they should stick together.

Now with the help of wood glue, glue the two parts together by pulling together with masking tape and leave to dry for a day. Then grease the side and bottom walls with glue and now glue everything together, pulling it off with masking tape, electrical tape or elastic band.

When gluing, gaps may remain in some places, they can be covered with tyrsa (small shavings from wood) stirred in glue. Leave the glue to dry for a day.

After the glue has dried, sand everything thoroughly on all sides, the bottom and top of the wooden mug must be rounded off with sandpaper so that there are no sharp edges.

I sanded the bottom inside the mug using a homemade disc made of wood, mounted on a metal rod, and on this disc I glued sandpaper.

Now let's take up the creation of a handle for our wooden mug, for this take one sticks thicker, the other thinner, remove the bark from them, cut them to the desired length, you should get two thin sticks and one thicker longer.

Drill through holes with a drill with a diameter of the thinnest sticks in the wall of the mug (in the upper and lower parts of it, one above the other) and in the thick handle also through holes and at the same distance and insert thin sticks into the holes, applying abundantly wood glue to the tips so as not there were cracks in the circle.

Finishing treatment of our wooden mug remained, for this I used polyurethane (this is a type of synthetic varnish that is used to cover and process wooden products). It took several coats to be completely waterproof.

Since the wooden mug was a wedding gift, I printed a heart template with the initials and the wedding date, and using a dremel with an engraving attachment, I carved an engraving along the outline of the template, similar to what lovers do on tree trunks with a knife. Then I painted these engraving outlines with black paint and varnished.

This is how a finished handmade wooden mug looks like, I hope you like it as much as I do.

The master's stainless mug was taken as a basis here, so he decided to stylize it like a tree. For this I took a pre-dried wood blank (it is desirable that the texture be beautiful) and turned a wooden glass on a lathe, into which I inserted my favorite metal mug.

Let's look at how the master made his mug? What exactly did he need for this?

Materials
1. wooden bar 10 inches (25.4 cm)
2.mug travel (stainless steel)
3. linseed oil
4.cotton fabric
5.carpentry glue or epoxy

Tools
1.wood lathe
2.set of chisels
3.brush
4.drill and 3 circular drills (to create a cavity in the workpiece)
5.sandpaper
6.hacksaw
7.ruler

The process of creating a wooden mug with your own hands
And so, the first thing of course is to find suitable material, it is better if the pattern and texture of the wood is not uniform. For this, breeds are suitable fruit trees (apple, cherry, bird cherry) their drawing is very beautiful and unique. You can also use "Cap" whose pattern is very similar to marble, but its wood is quite hard and difficult to process.

Then the workpiece must be dried in natural conditions. or in a special drying chamber (who has it) Attention!The wood should be absolutely dry before processing, but if it is not dry and wet, then it will simply crack and all your work is "down the drain"

Many of you at school in the class of "Labor", studying in high school, studied a lathe on wood and turned on it (rolling pins, balusters, candlesticks, door handles and so on.) That is, they are familiar with the device and principle. But not everyone was allowed to grind on this machine (glasses and nesting dolls), but especially neat and attentive ones! Because with careless work on grinding the inner cavity, the workpiece often flew out, where the matryoshka, where the chisel)))

Next, the resulting bar must be marked with a ruler and a pencil in order to find the center by drawing 2 lines from corner to corner, the crosshair will be the center. Alignment must be strictly observed !!! Curved markings are a potential blow to the forehead, flying out a workpiece))) By the way, here on the site there are articles on making wood with your own hands

It is inserted into the guides and clamped.

The machine turns on and the master begins to grind off the excess, giving the workpiece a cylindrical look.

An important point! On the left side it grinds a "thorn" which will then be inserted into the chuck and will hold the workpiece without 2 points of support.

Next, the internal cavity is drilled with drills, the author uses 3 drills of different diameters for this, starting with the smallest. After that, the inside must be sanded with sandpaper put on a stick - this is necessary for subsequent turning in order to ensure a flat surface.

With the help of a chisel, the inner part is machined.

Periodically, the master applies the bottom of the metal mug so as not to grind off the excess. Once again, he stopped the machine in order to evaluate the work done.

The surface of the wooden glass is sanded with sandpaper.

And so, the inner part is machined and now the master cuts the thorn with a hacksaw.

Next, the craftsman takes his stainless steel marching glass and covers it epoxy resin, you can also use glue that is not afraid of temperature exposure. Attention!Do not use toxic types of glue like "Moment" because when you pour boiling water into a mug, the metal will heat up and this glue will begin to evaporate its chemical elements. Be more attentive!

The epoxy coated surface is placed in a wooden glass.

Then you should wait until the adhesive dries, and then the master puts the glass back into the chuck lathe, you need this in order to align the bottom of the mug to the maximum.

And one more strict instruction from the author !!! Do not cover wooden surface wood stain and all kinds of varnishes (because they contain chemistry) The only thing that can be used to give a more noble look to the wood is only "linseed oil", which the master successfully did without removing the mug from the machine. He took a natural cotton fabric (cotton), moistened it with oil and saturated the wood at low speed of the machine. Why does the master do this on the machine? Because you need to rub the product with oil for a long time and painfully (by hand) and everything is operational on the machine)

Choose any round container the same size as you want your mug to be. Place the planks around it and tape them together. Leave the last section open, that is, do not complete the circle.

Now spread the resulting workpiece on a flat surface and apply a little glue in the space between the beams. Roll the piece again, forming a circle. To keep the planks tighter, use thick rope and a few hard objects close at hand, such as screwdrivers. Wrap the product tightly with rope, tie hard objects to several ends to make it heavier. The main thing is to create pressure between the parts so that they are in tight contact. Leave the product in this position to allow the glue to dry.

Now we need to make a handle for our mug. Approximate size 20 cm x 8 cm. It is best to make a preliminary sketch. Transfer it to the pen blank, carefully cut. Grind the part with any grinder. When the glue dries, you can polish the surface of the mug itself. For a more natural and original look, decorate the mug with thin sheet metal strips. It is best to screw the piece to the block at the base of the handle. You can also use decorative laces, rings, cut a pattern along the surface. In general, the individuality of the mug will depend on the imagination of the master.

Attach the handle to the main body of the mug. Do this with glue, liquid bunches, self-tapping screws, etc. Then cut the bottom out of plywood or harder material. It should be suitable in size, but you should not be too scrupulous in processing it: no one is going to drink from the mug, which means that it is not necessary to ensure reliable docking with the frame. Polish the finished work.