Wooden vase from a flat shield. Detailed photo report. Decorative vases for the interior - crafts from wood cuts How to make a hole in a wooden vase

Vases can be a wonderful interior decoration. Some of them can even be made by hand. Vases can be decorated and transformed very quickly, even with your own hands. This will allow you to create more and more distinctive features in the interior.

1. Original vase filling

Great option filling the vase with wine corks, with the help of which the vase is immediately transformed.

2. Lemon vase

A simple, but at the same time very bright option for decorating a vase with a lemon decor, which will be just a godsend.

3. Small bottle vases

A beautiful option to create many mini-vases with your own hands from ordinary bottles.

4. The vase is decorated with beads

It is possible to transform and decorate a vase with the help of beads, which will create a truly beautiful vase in a minimum of time and money.

5. Wooden vase decor

Nice design of the vase with the help of branches, which will give lightness and unobtrusiveness in the interior of any of the rooms.

6. Stylish and simple vases

Beautiful design of small vases that will decorate any home.

7. Vases decorated with cord

With the help of a thread or a cord, it is possible to create unforgettable vases that will become just an excellent solution for decoration.

8. Making a regular bottle

An excellent option to decorate an ordinary bottle in the form of a beautiful vase, which you will definitely like.
9. Bottle makeover

A cute solution to create from ordinary bottles beautiful vases that will be a godsend.

10. Decoration of vases with sparkles

An original solution for decorating vases with gold sequins.

11. Pretty sparkly vase

A great option to create an original and cute shiny vase that will decorate any interior.

12. Vase decorated as a candlestick

One of the fastest and simple options, so this is the creation of a candlestick from a vase.

13. The perfect combination

If you combine several bottles the same shape, then it is possible to get such a non-standard vase with cells.

14. Vase of tree branches

Cute and very interesting option create a vase from tree branches that will transform the interior of any room.

15. Bright painting of a bottle decorated as a vase

An excellent and very interesting option for painting a bottle, which became a vase very quickly and simply.

16. Original tied bottles

Decorating bottles is a very interesting and difficult moment that should be taken into account and used to the maximum in practice.

17. Vase decor with pencils

The original option to decorate a vase with ordinary colored pencils, which will be a godsend for any interior.

18. Making bottles with thread

A nice idea to decorate ordinary bottles with a thread, which will be a real discovery and will allow you to create original vases.

19. Decoration of an ordinary transparent vase

Quick and easy decoration of an ordinary vase, which will transform the interior in the shortest possible time.

20. Painting wine bottles

Decorating wine bottles with hand painting, which can be even more attractive than this.

21. Vase decor with wood

The original decoration of the flower vase with the help of wood, which looks charming and delicate.

22. Custom wire vases

Excellent and perhaps very original version create a wire vase that looks very interesting.

23. Excellent table decor

One of the best and easiest table decoration options is with a pretty vase that you will love.

24. Cute DIY vases

With your own hands, it is possible to decorate any of the vases in the most diverse way, which will definitely please and inspire.

25. Successful vase decor

A cute solution to ennoble an ordinary transparent vase with burlap and accessories.

26. Christmas vases

An interesting decoration of vases in the New Year's style, which will be just a highlight of any interior.

27. Original vase with transparent bottom

A nice and very interesting example of designing a vase with a transparent bottom, which will become a feature of the interior.

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How to make a vase out of wood. Wood vases are usually round and made from a solid piece, with turning turning 75 percent of the wood into shavings. As a result, we get one vase and a huge pile of shavings, but vases are not made from poplar - from precious woods, although poplar has been growing for more than one year. Our way of making a vase out of wood will be different. It will soon become clear to you how to make a vase out of wood, with great savings in wood.

We will need:

1. A glued board made of three types of wood (17*20*3 cm), or bars of three types of wood, in different shades.
2. Drill.
3. Drill for wood.
4. Sanding attachments.
5. Clamps..
6. Wood glue.
7. Shellac (a substance widely used in woodworking).
8. Muslin (cotton), tassel.

Tape machine for cutting wood.

The whole vase made of wood can be formed from one glued blank-board. This allows us to make an angle at which the rings of our future vase are cut. And the effect is as if the vase is made from a single piece.

First, we need a glued board made of various types of wood (walnut, mahogany, maple).

The gluing, along the long side, goes in this order walnut, mahogany, maple, then mahogany, walnut. We fit the template to the center line of the adhesive strip and apply the markup. It is precisely the exact alignment of the central strip that will achieve the effect of a solid workpiece.

We cut out the workpiece along the outer contour of the first ring, for this (unfortunately) you will need tape machine for cutting wood.

After that. At the intersection of the center lines of the workpiece and the inner marking oval, you need to drill a hole at an angle of 25 degrees in order to refuel the saw.

To drill at an angle, it is necessary to cut an auxiliary template - cut off one edge of a hardwood block of wood, at this angle. Write the angle values ​​on the bar (we will need several with different angles).

Then we cut out the core of the workpiece along the contour, set the table angle to 25 degrees. We fit the ring to the rest of the board, aligning the central stripes, circle along the inner edge, create a cutting line for the second ring. Next, we repeat the cutting procedure only, we take the hole angle of 28 degrees. With the help of the second ring, we make the third, adhering to the above instructions. As a result, we get three rings and the bottom of our vase made of wood.

Glue the three rings together. We first check whether they fit snugly against each other (you can combine the rings and shine a flashlight inside). Adjusting irregularities, if any, is done with sandpaper, and again we check.

We smear the rings with glue, combine them so that the center line appears solid. We clamp in clamps with the help of two boards.

Our glue is dry, time to sand.

We grind with various nozzles, gradually reducing the grain size, to obtain a smooth surface. After grinding, we glue the bottom, we try so that the glue does not protrude, if it protrudes, after five minutes, gently unclench the clamps, wipe the glue with a damp cloth, and clamp it back until it dries completely. Next, we grind the vase along with the bottom.

The final operation - we apply several layers of shellac, shine with a piece of muslin.

How to make a vase out of wood is now clear - but it is not very easy to realize what was conceived, as it turned out.

Wooden vases look very beautiful. Usually done on lathe. But 90% of the wood turns into shavings.
There is a technology that allows you to make a vase from a flat shield.

Here's what happens:

It took a long time to choose the material for the sample. On the one hand, I want something interesting, on the other hand, so that it would not be a pity to spoil it.
As a result, I settled on walnut, with oak and wenge inserts.

A walnut board 75mm wide and 15mm thick is cut into 3 parts.
Oak 4mm veneer must be cut into 15mm slabs.

How to do it if not circular saw, but have a pair of clamps and a scoring saw?
So - the pist is clamped between the nut dies ...

And drinking.

The result is an even die of the desired thickness:

I glue the walnut into a shield with spacers - two oak dies, between them a thin wenge veneer. (which was sawn using the same technology)
Scratches from the saw are visible. A little sloppiness, plus solid oak that sawn along the grain.
It's not scary, anyway, the shield will have to be sanded to even out the gluing errors.

And again I glue it with spacers, leave it overnight:

I level the shield with a belt grinder, remove the remaining glue. Probably it was worth making the wenge continuous:

The result was a shield with a thickness of 14 mm. On each side it took 0.5 mm.
Based on the shield and the desired dimensions of the vase, the angle and step are selected:

I print the drawing, with the help of an awl I combine the centers of the shield and the drawing, I glue the drawing:

I saw a small rail at an angle of 38 degrees:

I fix the shield with clamps on the jigsaw table and using the rail as a guide, I drill 2mm holes at an angle of 38 degrees with a drill:

I pass a file into the hole:

And let's go!
Cut through the first ring:

And here it is - the bottom!

The wood is very hard, it is sawn slowly, if you squeeze it a little, the file bursts. To replace the file, you need to return the table to a horizontal position, unwind the file fasteners, thread the shield, adjust it again to 38 degrees, adjust the tension ... Moreover, the file almost always breaks when 3 cm remains before the end of the ring.

The second ring, the picture is beginning to emerge.

Bottom view:

And after the fourth ring, the saws ran out. Used half a pack. No more, I'm saving it for tomorrow.

I drove to the store, bought 8 packs of files (to be sure to have enough), sawed:

I'll move the rings:

Sleight of hand and no cheating, the rings stack in a vase:

Can be combined with shift. You can insert between layers. Lots of options.

I start gluing, while without a bottom, so that it would be more convenient to grind the inner surface:

Checking layer alignment:

I leave it overnight under load:

Result. The surface is rough, but the alignment of the lines without serious violations.
Darkening - traces of sawing with an ultra-thin file (41 teeth per inch), which sank in sawdust and the wood burned.

It is necessary to level the inner surface.
Attempt number one - a steel rod with sandpaper glued to double-sided tape.
Not an option, too flexible.

Attempt number two, sanding drum on the same spindle.
It doesn’t fit either, the machine is light (as I intended it to be). It does not hold, plus it is inconvenient to work.

Attempt number three. Grinding drum on a flexible sleeve.

The drum is small, sawdust fly to where it is least needed, but you can work:

For fine grinding, I collect petals of 400 sandpaper:

But it doesn't grind. I continue with my hands.
It takes a lot of time, the surface is far from ideal.
I find an error - the penultimate ring is glued with an offset of 180 degrees.
Well, as a reminder... After all, it could have been a lot worse. Let it give charm - it will be a border. The main thing is that the spacers are normally combined.



Most of all, the sweat flooding the eyes and falling on the vase interferes.

The respirator was once snow white:

I glue the bottom. To speed up the process, I use my weight with dumbbells in my hands as a press ... The vase can withstand more than 100 kg without squeaking, despite its lightness and thin walls. Now I think, what would happen if the vase shattered?

The second important condition for the safe operation of a finely grooved chisel is the requirement to always direct it down the slope, i.e. to a smaller diameter. The sharpening of this tool is usually done at 30°. this operation is very convenient to carry out

using a special device that I made for sharpening deep-grooved chisels, slightly changing its setting. The chamfer is perfectly smooth without edges. This device will be described later in another article, but now it should be clarified that instead of a finely grooved chisel to form a vase profile, you can also use a deeply grooved one with a less burrowing character, which I often do.

Photo 6 shows a fine scraping of the turned outer surface of the vase with the wings of a finely grooved chisel, which is led at 45 ° to the surface of the part. Final alignment of the workpiece with a longitudinal arrangement wood fibers it can also be done with the help of a kosyachkovy chisel, as shown in photo 7. True, it has a very burrowing character and even poses a danger, since when burrowing it can fly out of the hands and injure the turner. At the same time, in the hands of an experienced specialist, such a tool is universal, allowing you to grind almost everything, but only with a fractional arrangement of wood fibers, i.e., with transverse turning, a chisel chisel is absolutely inapplicable. By the way, its blade is sharpened at 25 ° necessarily on the platform of the handpiece of the electric grinder.

Having completed the formation of the external profile of the vase and leveled its surface, as well as applying small decorative beads and grooves with a finely grooved chisel (photo #), I wet polish the product with P220 sandpaper. for which I dip the “skin” into a plate of water, and spray the surface with a sprayer. This polishing is preliminary. and in the future, after drying, the product will require final finishing. Next, I cut off the supporting ledge on the bottom of the vase with a thin cutting chisel (photo 9) and clamp the bottom in the cartridge with the support of the product by the tailstock (photo 10) for a snug fit of the front plane of the sponges to the bottom of the vase. The next step will be drilling a deep hole in the neck of the vase, but since it is long, for reliability, I decided to additionally fix the neck in the lunette (photo 11), the use of which is a common practice when turning vases.

Lunettes for small lathes are not for sale, you have to make them yourself. My three-wheeled steady rest (there are also two- and four-wheeled ones) is made of plywood 40 mm thick. The workpiece hole diameter is 220mm, and the inline skate wheels with precision bearings ensure relatively quiet operation. As soon as I installed the lunette, I had to interrupt the work: I had to take a roll of cling film and wrap a vase with it (photo 12), otherwise the item made of wet apple wood (an extremely “crackling” breed) would certainly crack during my absence. By the way, I also wrap semi-finished bowls of weak, heavily rotted wood with this film to prevent them from flying into pieces when boring the inner cavity. The vase I conceived was to become universal, that is, suitable for both artificial and natural flowers. In the latter case, water should be poured into some suitable small vessel, such as a glass test tube 200 mm long and 20 mm in diameter, placed inside the vase (photo 13).

I did not find a suitable long drill (such as a Lewis spiral or a feather drill with grooves for chip removal) to make a hole in the neck of a vase. I had to put a simple flat "perk" 22 mm wide from a Soviet-era production set onto a long (300 mm) steel rod with a diameter of 10 mm and clamp it in a powerful drilling chuck with a Morse taper (photo 14). The very short base of my machine did not allow the cartridge to be inserted into the pi-zero of the tailstock, and the thickness of the rod of the device created did not make it possible to fix it in a 10 mm chuck of a conventional drill (9 mm). As a result, when drilling a deep hole in the neck of a rotating vase, I simply had to hold the cartridge in my hand with great effort, resting the rod on the handpiece. Photos 15 and 16 show the initial and final stages of this process. By the way, for convenience further use the test tube inserted into the neck of the vase should protrude from there by approximately 5 mm.

At the stage of finishing the bottom, i.e. removing dents from the cams of the cartridge and leveling the end, it was necessary to unfold the almost finished vase on the machine. Previously, I carved a support faceplate with a recess for the diameter of the neck (photo 17). I placed it there and backed the bottom with a crowned center, into which I inserted an additional home-made narrow nozzle. When later I turned other vases of approximately the same shape, I simply carefully clamped the neck in the cartridge using small F-type cams, placing a strip of plastic more than 1 mm thick under them. A piece of coaxial (antenna) cable will also work as a softening pad.

Photo 18 shows the search for the center on the bottom, when for some reason it was not marked or disappeared. The beating is marked with a black felt-tip pen, then it is necessary, tapping on the mark with a mallet, to shift the workpiece so that the desired center is in its place. After that, the bottom is processed using a deep grooved or finely grooved chisel (photo 19)

After turning, the vase must be dried without cracking. Cracking in the air is almost inevitable, which is exacerbated by the large thickness of the vase in the lower part (the thinner the walls of the product, the higher the chance of avoiding cracks, as well as some warping). I dry my raw wood products in one of two ways: either I put them in a kraft paper bag filled with wet shavings from the same wood (photo 20), or I fill the product itself with these shavings, which I then wrap in two layers of newspaper and put on a shelf in shed. The latter method is especially convenient and effective for bowls and plates with walls 4-8 mm thick, which dry out in about two weeks in summer without cracking or warping.

Unfortunately, the formation of cracks in the lower thick part of the vase from the apple tree could not be avoided even after two months of drying in a kraft bag, and circumstances did not allow drying longer. I had to close up the cracks by gluing thin plates of the same material, sawn into band saw and then finished with a Proxhop carbide-tipped grinder and a Black&Decker electric file. The stickers were almost invisible, but this extra work forced me to reconsider the technique of turning vases in order to make their lower parts hollow to reduce the likelihood of cracking.

I must say that from the very beginning I had doubts about the legitimacy of a simplified approach, limited to simply drilling a narrow channel in the neck, which can be seen in a number of videos on the Internet. I used to bore the cavities in the bottom of the vases, but there were always various difficulties. True, I rarely made vases. Last summer, I made a series of vases of a similar shape, and the problem had to be solved radically. From the very beginning, at both ends of the cylindrical workpiece, it is machined along the ledge. Having formed the outer profile of the lower part of the vase, you should immediately start boring its cavity using a steady rest, holding the workpiece in the cartridge by the protrusion in place of the neck. Using a deep or finely grooved chisel, a hole with a diameter of about 50 mm is bored. through which it will then be possible to introduce one of the curved chisels - articulated, with a carbide nozzle or a nozzle cutter (photo 21), and the residual wall thickness is constantly controlled by a caliper.

Upon completion of the boring process, it is necessary to separately turn a plug of suitable diameter from the same wood material and glue it into the hole of the protrusion (bottom). Here it is necessary to estimate the depth of protrusion of the plug into the cavity in such a way that the test tube, which will later rest on it, goes out by the above-mentioned 5 mm. If the test tube falls into the neck, there will be an additional hassle with gluing a piece of wood to the bottom of the vase through a narrow channel.

That part of the glued plug that protrudes outward, I cut off on a band saw. Next, the bottom will be finally processed in the manner already described above.

If the vase has a different shape with a much wider mouth, then

a tag as a vessel with water will not work here. What to do? The decision came pretty quickly when I took a half-rotten birch suvel with a bright texture, harvested a couple of years ago in the forest, and carved a vase from it with a neck with a diameter of 35 mm. Further, in my stocks, I found a two-meter plastic tube of bright green color with a diameter of 32 mm and cut off a piece about 160 mm long from it on a band saw, deciding to turn it into the required vessel. First, using a gas microtorch, I made sure that this plastic is not thermoplastic, i.e., it will not be possible to weld the desired container from it. I had to turn to gluing, first sawing off another small piece from the original tube and making an additional fractional cut on it. With the help of an industrial hair dryer, I heated the cut to a soft state. unfolded it flat, put it under a press, and after cooling the leveled piece of plastic with a compass, I applied a contour of a circle on it, which will play the role of a bottom in a vessel from a tube. Further, I quite accurately, albeit by eye, brought him

size according to the internal diameter of the tube (28 mm) using a Black & Decker electric file (photo 22). I drove the circle into the tube to a depth of approximately 3-5 mm and filled the outside with a thick layer of a fairly universal waterproof superglue "Master" based on vinyl acetate copolymers, which I had been keeping for ten years (photo 23). The bright color of the vessel seemed vulgar to me, and I painted it with a brown quick-drying nitrocellulose enamel. Subsequent exposure to water for a month showed the tightness of the made vessel, and the general aesthetic properties of a chiseled vase with a live goldenrod branch can be seen in photo 24.

Finally, I would like to note that a wide variety of plastic water pipes are sold in stores, from which you can easily make any vessels for fresh flowers and place them inside chiseled wooden vases. Photo 25 shows a number of such products that I created last summer from various types of wood according to the method described above.

DIY wooden vase - photo

Photo 1. Cross-cutting a log on a goat. Photo 2. Sharpening a peeling chisel on an electric grinder. Photo 3. Rough processing of the workpiece with a peeling chisel. Photo 4. Forming a protrusion at the end of the cylinder for the cartridge using a cutting chisel. Photo 5. Forming the outer profile of a vase using a finely grooved chisel. Photo 6. Fine scraping of the surface with a finely grooved chisel. Photo 7. Finishing the surface with a jamb. Photo 8. Application of decorative beads and grooves with a finely grooved chisel. Photo 9. Cutting the support ledge with a thin cutting chisel.

Photo 10 Photo 11. Fixing the neck of the vase in a homemade lunette. Photo 12. Sealing the vase cling film. Photo 13. Glass tube. Photo 14. Homemade perk
Photo 15. Start drilling a blind hole for a glass test tube.

Photo 16. Cork in the hole of the vase. Photo 17. Turning the support faceplate with a hole for the neck of the vase. Photo 18. Reverse fixation of the vase and search for the center on the bottom. Photo 19

If you have on hand professional tool, you can explore its possibilities endlessly. So, for example, an ordinary construction lathe is often used as a basis for making souvenirs and various decorative items. A beautifully crafted wooden candlestick on a lathe looks great in classic interior Houses. A large vase made of wood is able to amaze the imagination. Sometimes in the hands experienced craftsman a seemingly ordinary chock turns into a real artistic masterpiece. How do they do it? What else can you make yourself?

A wood lathe allows you to make not only construction blanks, but also various decorative products that are designed to please the eye and demonstrate the capabilities of the equipment. Any wood crafts are very practical, they always have a place in the house, so you can safely experiment and try to do something with your own hands. The easiest way is to turn a vase made of wood; you can easily get a jug, a salt shaker and a box for storing any little things. You can offer to make chess.

Vase

How can you make a vase on a lathe? For its manufacture, you may need a certain tool. In addition to the lathe, you need to take cutters, a planer, a hacksaw, a ruler, compasses, an ax and a saw, grinding skins and a chisel.

The process of turning a vase is extremely simple. True, it should be noted that vases are complex in configuration and simple. Consider how you can carve out a simple option.

• First, a block of wood is cut with a saw, 10-20 cm long.
• It must be worked out with a planer, both from the ends and along the length.
• The workpiece is installed in the chuck of the machine.
• The machine is turned on and checked for runout of the part.
• If it is present, it is necessary to carry out alignment.
• The top layer of wood is removed to a depth of 1 cm.
• The chamfer is removed at an angle of 45 ° from the outer end.
• A drill is inserted into the tailstock.
• A hole is drilled with a depth less than the length of the workpiece by 3-5 cm. That is, the bottom of the vase is determined.
• Now, with the help of a cutting, which is called a joint, the cavity of the product is cut out.

Since the vase can have a different shape: straight, oval, and so on, then, accordingly, the boring of the upper surface is maintained exact shape. After that, the product is polished from the outside and from the inside. What is sandpaper used for? The wooden product is removed from the machine, the bottom is finished manually using a planer and sandpaper. After that, the souvenir is varnished.

Chess

Chess is a small figurine, so their manufacture requires a certain experience and hardness of the hand of the turner, as well as his eye. To make a figure, you will need a small log with a section of 50x50 or 60x60 mm. On the one hand, it is formed under a smaller section, for example, 40x40 or 30x30 mm, as shown in the video.

With this smaller end, the workpiece is inserted and clamped into the chuck. Now you need to cut the free end of the blank with a cutter and press it with the center of the tailstock. A layer of wood is removed with a cutter so that the workpiece becomes round. After that, you can proceed to the manufacture of the chess piece itself. You can use traditional forms, you can dream up.

As soon as the figure is completely ready, it must be sanded, and at the end cut off from the pressed part of the workpiece. It remains only to manually varnish it or paint it black or White color. By the way, a wooden candlestick is made on a lathe in the same way. Its length is longer, which means that a longer workpiece will be needed.

Making a box

The box is not the most difficult element that can be turned on a lathe. But if it is a product with a lid, then the drawings will be required here. After all, the lid should enter the box and sit on the groove, that is, the lid should be flush with the edge of the product itself.

To make the box, you will need a cylindrical blank, which is installed in a lathe. The main thing is that the workpiece does not reach the bed.

• First, a layer of wood is removed with a semicircular cutter to give the workpiece rounded shapes.
• Then with a joint you need to earn money on the surface, that is, make it smooth.
• After that, it is necessary to form the internal cavity of the wooden product. For this, a narrow straight cutter is used. This operation cannot be completed in one pass, so you will have to carry it out in steps.
• Using a triangular cutter, it is possible to expand the internal cavity to the thickness of the walls.
• The bottom of the box is leveled with a straight but wide cutter. They also make a groove for the lid.
• Grinding of internal and external planes is carried out.
• Lacquer is applied on top, wax on the inside.

The lid is made from the same material as the box itself. It just requires a thin workpiece, which is fixed in the chuck of a woodworking lathe. First, the processing is carried out with a wide straight cutter, that is, the inner part is formed, it can be flat or concave inward. Grinding required.

Then the outer part is formed, for which the workpiece will have to be turned over. That is, the semi-finished part of the lid is cut off and the almost finished inner side is installed in the cartridge. Then the same cutter is used to form the outer side of the lid. It can also be flat or convex. At the end, grinding is carried out. After that, the finished product is varnished.

In principle, the order of manufacturing the sides can be changed if there is a handle-holder on the lid. To do this, you will have to take a thicker workpiece to sharpen the handle. It can be round, oval or curly. You can make a handle as a separately turned element, and attach it to the lid of the box with an adhesive.

The diameter of the lid should correspond to the diameter of the inner groove of the box. That is, the cover must freely enter the groove.

These are the products you can do with your own hands on a wood lathe. The most difficult of the above decorative items is the box. Here it is necessary to strictly adhere to the dimensions, especially the wall thickness. They made it a little thinner, and there will be a high probability that it will burst over time. In addition, you will have to strictly adhere to the diameters of the lid and the groove on the box itself. If one of the sizes does not match, then either the lid will fall inside the box, or it will end up on the edge of the product.

Therefore, when turning on a lathe homemade crafts wood requires attention and accuracy (the work is not rough). Of course, it is necessary to take measurements with a caliper during the work process.