Your own carpenter: how to make an ax and sharpen it. Do-it-yourself taiga ax, features and varieties Do-it-yourself wooden ax

The ax is actually a very important tool. Of course, if you are a real carpenter, then you must definitely know how to make an ax that is perfect for certain jobs. Professional master carpenters usually use several axes at once. Nevertheless, this species the tool is also necessary for people living outside the city, or just city residents who occasionally travel to their summer cottages. After all, you need to heat the bath with firewood, and you can chop them only with the help of an ax. And so that no misunderstandings arise in the process, and the tool does not let you down, you should know about all the subtleties of how to make an ax with your own hands, as well as how to prepare it for work. The ax itself can be completely different in shape. But you should properly mount the ax, wedged, and it is also necessary to sharpen at a certain angle.

The choice of the piercing part of the ax

When you are faced with a choice, in the process of acquiring a stabbing part, be sure to pay attention to the metal from which it is made. There must be an inscription GOST, confirming the implementation in accordance with the norms and requirements. You should be alert if you see a sign like: OST, MRTU, TU. In this case, the metal production technology could be changed by the manufacturer. If we talk about choosing a good Soviet ax, then it is better to buy it on the regular market.

You can check the quality of the ax the old fashioned way by striking the blade of one against the blade of the other. If one of the products is made of poor quality, then it is on it that the impact marks will remain. Also, if you hang the ax, you can knock on it and listen to the sound. It will be characteristic.

Pay attention to the fact that if the blade is good, there should be no dents or flaws; the eye must be cone-shaped; also, the eye and the blade must be coaxial; and also there must be at least a small thickness of the butt, and its ends must be perpendicular to the blade.

If you could not find a product that would meet all standards. You can make a good ax yourself. Even if some misunderstandings are found in the purchased product over time, they can be eliminated by sharpening the burrs, boring the eyes, and giving the butt a symmetrical shape.

Select a workpiece. Make an ax handle

Based on your height and strength, you should choose the length of the ax handle. The quality of the wood is also very important. For example, for lightweight products, up to one kg in weight, the length of the handles is 40-60 cm. If we talk about a heavy ax - up to one and a half kilograms in weight, the length of the handle will be 55-65 cm.

Approaching the question of how to make a wooden ax should be done correctly. For example, not every tree is suitable for its handle. Most suitable options- the root part of the birch, as well as its outgrowths; maple or oak, ash and other types of wood. It is very important to dry the preparations well, and always in natural conditions and for a considerable time.

You select the tool template in advance, and your template should be outlined on the workpiece. The end part of the handle should be thickened so that the master can slow down with his hand if the ax slips out. Excess wood (outside the outline) should be removed with a knife, an ax with a perfectly sharpened blade, or other similar tools. After that, you need to make sure that the actions are correct. Put the ax on the ax handle for fitting, using a mallet. Make sure these parts fit very snugly together. After that, you can proceed to further cleaning. To scrape, you should use glass, and to grind - fine-grained sandpaper. Knowing how to make an ax out of wood is half the battle. But that's not all.

"Landing" an ax on the handle

This process can be done, for example, in this way:

• The top of the ax handle is adjusted in accordance with the eyelet. Unnecessary wood should be removed with a knife.

• The hatchet should be placed horizontally on a flat hard surface, and the ax should be placed on top. On the handle, you need to mark with a pencil the place to which it needs to be planted. Dividing the segment in two, you should put a second mark.

• Use a vise to clamp the ax so that the wider end is up. A hacksaw for metal should be cut to the 2nd mark directly under the wedge.

• The wedge can be from the store, and also made from wood by hand. Its thickness can be 5-10 mm, the length is the same as the depth of cut, the width is equal to the eye of an ax.

• You need to put a board on the table, and put an ax on it, upside down. The ax should be put on the handle, tapping it on the board. Next, turn over and knock with the handle, in the process of planting. So turn over and tap should be several times in a row. As a result, the ax should go into the eye.

• After that, the ax handle must be placed vertically, and a wedge should be inserted into the cut and hammered with a mallet.

• Oil should be applied to the ax handle, the excess will drain, and the tool will remain to dry. After all, with the help of a rag, it is necessary to wipe the ax and the handle.

In addition, you can watch a video on how to make an ax, with which you will be more clear about the essence of making a tool.

Ax blade sharpening

This issue is very important so that the work of the tool does not cause inconvenience and trouble. In accordance with GOST, the sharpening angle should be from twenty to thirty degrees. If you are a professional carpenter, then sharpening should be done at an angle of thirty-five degrees.

Upon completion of the work done with an ax, it is recommended to put a cover on the blade. Be careful!

Recently there has been a real boom in blacksmithing. Youth becomes blacksmiths. Knives and axes made by them are real works of art.

Nothing is impossible

Looking at the work of blacksmiths, the thought comes to mind that there is nothing difficult in making an ax. But in practice, it turns out to be much more difficult.

In addition to a piece of metal for forging an ax, you need: a forge, an anvil, breakdowns for an eye. This set of tools is not for everyone. Of course, you can make a bugle and breakouts, but you can also try to make an ax in a different way.

Making an ax by the locksmith method

Ideas on how to make an ax outside the forge lead to the locksmith method. The ax consists of three parts:

• ax blade
• ax handle

If everything is clear with the materials for the manufacture of an ax handle and a wedge, then the question of what, most importantly how, to make a canvas is puzzling. Knowing that the canvas consists of a blade and a butt, you understand what is needed to make an ax:

• blade metal strip
• piece of pipe for the butt

Blade

A full size drawing will show the quantity required material. The blade needs a hard metal, such as a car spring.

We transfer the contour of the drawing to the spring and saw off everything superfluous. We also do descents with the help of a grinder. It is important here not to overheat the metal, so that the edge remains solid and keeps sharpening well.

Butt

For the butt of a medium ax, you will need a pipe with an inner diameter of 38-40 mm. Better if it is thick-walled. We cut the pipe to size from the drawing. Then we heat it, for example, with a gas burner, and squeeze it in a yew to give it a more rectangular shape.

Canvas assembly

We connect the blade and butt by welding. It is important to boil the metal with high quality so that the ax does not crack during operation.

Then we grind the seam with a grinder, if necessary, boil the shells, grind again. For extra strength, you can rivet the butt and blade with strips of metal.

ax

A good ax implies the presence of a properly made ax handle. To the question - what can an ax handle be made of, there is a simple answer - from hardwood.

The most common tree for making an ax handle is birch. But, if you make an ax not only for chopping firewood, but for the soul, then you should look for a wood species with a more expressive texture.

Wood for the hatchet

An ax handle made of ash, elm, hornbeam will look very nice. It is problematic only to buy boards from such types of wood in some regions, especially in the outback. Of course, you can use the Internet trading.

The tree for the ax handle should be well dried, be free of knots. At home wooden plank dried at room temperature for six months

The longer the wood dries, the stronger the ax handle will be. According to customs, wooden blanks were dried for years in the attics of houses.

Action plan

Drawing up instructions on how to make an ax handle with your own hands allows you to break the process into elementary steps. A list of actions will help to avoid mistakes and improve the quality of the result. This is especially important if you are doing something for the first time.

Note!

The step-by-step process of how to make a pen at home will look like this:

• drawing up a sketch of an ax handle and a template
• wood processing
• ax attachment
• finish coating.

Sketch and template of an ax handle

For comfortable work, the ax is made about 50-70 cm. By drawing a sketch in full size, it is easier to imagine the proportions of the future ax. Next, we transfer the drawing to plywood or thick cardboard and make a template.

Roughing

According to the template, we outline the contour of the handle on the tree and cut out the workpiece. We give a more rounded shape to the handle. For these purposes, you can use a planer, chisels or a small hatchet.

Fit

The next step in the manufacture of an ax handle is to fit the shape and ergonomics. We grind the tree to give the correct shape and comfortable grip.

For these purposes, a large rasp is perfect, as well as a grinding power tool. The main thing here is not to weaken the place where the ax is mounted on the ax handle.

Note!

Sanding and assembly

After rough processing, we sand the handle with sandpaper and make a slot under the wedge. We upset the ax on the handle and drive in a wedge. Many people advise to put the wedge on glue or epoxy. The choice is yours.

Finishing

The assembled ax is carefully polished with fine sandpaper. The tree can be stained or left as is. The protective layer is applied with oil or varnish.

For greater exclusivity, the handle can be decorated with carvings, inlays or wire incisions. On the canvas of the ax, the pattern etched in saline will look beautiful.

Conclusion

Buying an ax for chopping wood is very simple, and there is no need to make it yourself for this purpose. Homemade axes are more used as a subject of creativity, but he is able to fulfill his direct duties.

Some independent copies will give odds to industrial designs, give owners a reason for pride and pleasure from the work done.

Photo of a homemade ax

Note!

It's no secret that an ax is an indispensable carpentry tool. In addition, an ax is especially useful in the household: from chopping firewood to repairing a home.

This article discusses issues related to the manufacture of a taiga-type ax, because it is quite difficult to find such a useful tool on the market, and it will cost a lot. The article provides additional helpful information, which will tell you which ax is better to choose for certain needs.

What should be the taiga ax?

Such an ax, due to its special parameters, which are radically different from the characteristics and sizes of “classic” axes, is an indispensable assistant when performing many tasks, such as:

• Tree felling. Either carpentry or a simple preparation of firewood for the winter - a taiga ax will help you complete the task quickly and efficiently;
• Rough processing of logs - cleaning of branches, other similar works;
• Tool as a way of "survival" - any catalog of axes will confirm the statement that the taiga ax is ideal for hunting, preparing bags and traps;
• Creation of a hut and flooring, construction wooden house as soon as possible;
• Wood preparation.

In cases where the performance of work requires special accuracy, most the best option there will be a forged ax with a long blade. Cutting trees with such an ax is not very effective, but accuracy plays an important role.

Distinctive features of the taiga type ax

Most people do not see the difference between a taiga and an ordinary ax at all. So what are the differences between these two types of axes?

• The length of the roundness of the blade - the taiga ax is lighter in weight;
• Long beard - additional protection against deformation and breaking. Typically absorbs up to 60% of impact force;
• Special sharpening - allows you to use the ax as a standard cleaver, when choosing the right blow. In this case, the front edge of the blade is twice as wide as the back. The edge of a conventional ax has the same thickness index;
• The special angle of inclination of the ax handle reduces hand fatigue, increases the overall efficiency during work.

Making a taiga ax head

It is worth buying an ordinary carpentry ax, the head of which will weigh 1400-1500 grams.

In front, we cut off the protrusion of the blade flush with the butt. We form the roundness of the back of the blade - a grinder will help us with this. It is necessary to cut off all the metal so that there are no corners left.

We turn to the inside of the blade - carefully cut out a semicircle, which is necessary for a more comfortable grip. In addition, this manipulation can significantly reduce the weight of the head. To further reduce the weight and increase the maneuverability of the ax, it is necessary to cut off the upper corners of the butt.

Sharpening is done using an emery machine. For the best result, a large circle with a medium grain is installed. In addition, sharpening should be done on both sides.

Making an ax handle for a taiga ax

It is worth noting that the choice of the right wood is the key to success in the manufacture of a high-quality taiga ax. Ideal Options become maple and ash. Simpler options are birch and pine. The latter is perfectly polished and honed, but extremely unreliable due to its fragility.

Below is the instruction:

Selection of chocks - without the presence of knots, defects. Processing and drying - the tree is cleaned of bark and splits in the middle. Drying of wood should be carried out at + 25 °, while the moisture content should be 15%. The retention period is two months.

Creating the shape - we will need a hatchet or a large knife to remove the main wood. In addition, do not forget about a chisel and a small hammer - these tools will be needed for smaller jobs.

How to plant an ax? You should use gauze, as well as epoxy resin. After three days, the taiga ax will be ready for work.

The last step is sanding and varnishing. The ax will become not only useful, but also beautiful, such as in the photo from the advertising catalog!

DIY photo of axes

The result of activity - whether it is economic or industrial - depends not only on the perfection and quality of the tool used, but last but not least, on how convenient it is for a particular person. As for the handle of the purchased ax, it is often it that becomes the source of a number of problems - intense blunting of the cutting edge, regularly flying piercing part, rapid fatigue, and so on.

Choice of wood

The fact that not every breed is suitable for making an ax handle is understandable. It is advisable to focus on ash, oak, maple, hornbeam, acacia, mountain ash (necessarily old), beech and even apple trees. But the best option is still considered a birch, namely, the root part of a tree or growths on its trunk. Such wood is characterized by maximum density. Consequently, the durability of the ax handle is guaranteed.

It is better to harvest lumber in late autumn. At this time, the movement of juices practically stops, which means that the wood is relatively “dehydrated”.

Extract of samples

Even experienced master the first time you may not make a quality ax handle. Therefore, it is necessary to stock up on several blanks for the ax handle. Opinions on the timing of their storage before processing differ, but everyone agrees on one thing - drying should be done for at least 3-4 years. Moreover, it cannot be accelerated artificially. The process should proceed naturally, and it is advisable to choose a dark and dry place for storing raw materials.

It is pointless to use “fresh” wood on the ax handle. As a result of the shrinkage of the material, it will begin to deform, which means that the handle will have to be constantly wedged, otherwise the metal will fly off. An undried tree is used only as a last resort, as an exception to the rule, in case of an urgent need to make an ax handle, at least for a while.

Template preparation

A good ax handle should have a strictly defined shape. Trying to stand it "by eye" is a hopeless business. The same applies to linear dimensions- they should be as close as possible to the recommended values.

Axes have different purposes. As a rule, a good owner has at least two of them. Cleaver and carpenter - a must. The dimensions and shape of the ax handle for each are clearly visible in the figure.

What to consider:

• The "tail" is made somewhat larger in cross section than the gripping part. This ensures that the ax will not break out of the hands of the master during the work.
• Since we all have different heights, arm lengths, the linear parameters of the ax handle are not a standard. They vary within certain limits. First of all, this refers to its length (in cm). For a cleaver - from 750 to 950, for carpentry tools - about 500 (± 50). But it is necessary to leave the so-called allowance, first of all, from the side of the butt attachment (8-10 cm is enough). After it is tightly planted on the ax handle, without splitting the tree, it is easy to cut off the excess.

If the household has an ax that is convenient in all respects, then it is enough to transfer the contours of its handle to a sheet of cardboard and cut out a template using them.

Making an ax handle

With a sample, this is easy to do. The main stages of work are as follows:

• workpiece marking;
• sampling of excess wood (electronic / jigsaw, carpenter's knife, etc.);
• finishing, polishing of the ax handle.

• You should not rush to fine-tune the "to size" of the fixing part. In the process of processing the ax handle, you need to constantly monitor how tightly it is fitted to the eye of the butt. Even a small “shat” is undesirable, since such a handle will have to be wedged immediately. Given the specifics of the use of the tool, it will not last long. Therefore, grinding the ax handle should alternate with its regular fitting in place and fitting within the required limits, with a small margin (about 2 mm). The work is painstaking, requiring time and accuracy, but the result is worth it.
• When processing a workpiece for an ax handle, it is undesirable to use files. Such a tool loosens the tree, so it is unlikely that it will be possible to accurately maintain the dimensions - you will have to constantly remove burrs, which means choosing wood. For fine finish it is more correct to use a sharp knife, glass fragments, sandpaper with different sizes grains. The recommended direction of stripping and grinding is along the grain.
• It is necessary to choose the right angle of the butt nozzle. For a universal tool used for household purposes, 75º is enough, a cleaver - about 85 ± 50. This is also taken into account in the final design of the fixing part of the ax handle.

Ax wood protection

Every tree is prone to rotting to some extent. For the ax handle linen and drying oil. It is impossible to use varnishes and paints to protect the material from moisture. Otherwise, it is not a fact that the pen will not systematically slip out of your hands. The consequences are known.

The application of the compositions on the handle is carried out in several steps, while each layer should dry well.

Experienced craftsmen mix bright color dyes into drying oil or oil. It is very useful if you have to work with an ax in dense bushes, in areas with tall grass. A tool with a handle that is clearly visible will definitely not be lost.

Ready-made ax handles are available for sale. If a decision is made to purchase a pen, and not waste time preparing wood and independent production, then it is advisable to have its approximate dimensions with you (shown in the figure above). And choose the workpiece, focusing on them. At home, it remains only to slightly adjust the ax handle “for yourself”.

If you live or work in the taiga, then you must be equipped the right tools. The mandatory equipment includes not only a saw, but also an ax. Many people make the mistake of choosing this tool and think that carpentry can be mastered. Today we analyze what the perfect taiga ax looks like and whether it is possible to make it yourself.

Peculiarities

Not only in the taiga, a high-quality ax is needed. All lovers of constant and long hikes will like this attribute. This tool is needed not only for cooking barbecue. There is a to-do list that cannot do without this attribute. Namely:

• felling trees;
• processing of fallen logs;
• production of bags and self-catchers;
• building a hut;
• splitting the log along the fibers.

Looking at this entire list, we can safely say that the work is mostly rough and requires strong and durable equipment. Basically, the taiga ax is used:

• hunters-hunters;
• huntsmen;
• foresters;
• tourists;
• geologists and any other person who is going to the taiga.

Components

It is necessary to consider what basic elements an ax consists of:

1. Ax - different from a carpentry tool. In the taiga ax it is much longer. With it, it is easy to swing and hit the tree. The optimal length of the ax handle is approximately 50 cm, and in some cases more. It should not be heavy, otherwise it is impossible to succeed in the taiga.
2. Head. This part is also different from the carpentry tool. The head is missing the upper part of the blade. If needed urgently regular ax turn into a taiga, you can independently correct.
3. Blade. For efficient operation, it is specially rounded. This blade is widely used in the taiga.
4. Beard. This part fixes the ax handle and the head together.
5. Butt. In the taiga, it happens that you need not only an ax, but also a hammer. This part will easily replace it. Convenient, no need to carry a hammer with you, which is especially preferred by tourists.
6. Eye. This part allows you to put the head on the handle. For the reliability of the whole structure, a wooden wedge or an ordinary thick nail must be driven inside the eyelet. This will keep the head from popping off.
7. Fungus. This part is for safe use only. Hands are fixed on it in a comfortable position and do not slip off.

Below is a taiga ax. The drawing will show where and how each part is located.

Characteristics

The taiga ax is a tool that will help you in everything. There are conditions that must be met:

• lightness (frequency of use can affect fatigue);
• the handle should be ergonomic (an ax for each man should be like an individual suit - only in size);
• the main weight should be in the metal head.

For those who like to make everything with their own hands, we suggest using our next master class.

Self-production

We offer to supplement your hiking set with such a tool as a taiga ax. We will make a real masterpiece from the workpiece with our own hands. Before starting work, we will prepare everything you need. This includes:

• head from a carpenter's ax;
• wooden butt;
• Bulgarian;
• wedges are metal.

Here is a step by step tutorial:

1. With the help of a grinder, you need to shape the ax. It should look like a taiga specimen. If there is rust, it must be removed. To do this, we use a petal disc.
2. If corrosion has damaged the metal from the inside, then soak the head in vinegar for a day. The rest is brushed off.
3. We are preparing an axe. In our case, we suggest taking it is considered strong and solid.
4. Fasten the head and butt together with epoxy. Having additionally reinforced with a bandage, drive in beech wedges.
5. Cut off all excess and be sure to sand.
6. Sharpen your axe.

Since the butt is primarily a tree that is prone to dampness, it is worth processing it. Impregnate with special oil in several layers. Additionally, the product will receive a fortress and water resistance.

You can also make your own protective cover for the ax. It will protect you from unwanted injuries.

Sharpening rules

To avoid injury, the ax must be sharp. Sharpening can be done manually and mechanically. Let's consider each of the methods separately and analyze the basic rules for sharpening a tool.

manual method

This method will require a lot of free time, as it is quite troublesome. If you approach with special trepidation, then before sharpening you need to make a special template. For this you need:

• find a piece of tin;
• choose the optimal and correct sharpening angle;
• make a cut.

When the template is ready, go to the main action:

• we apply the template to the blade of the ax;
• see if there is a deviation angle;
• mark with a marker;
• processing.

If chosen manual way sharpening, it is better to do it with a bar with medium grit. The final touch can be done with the smallest view. The beam also has its own nuances:

• round shape is preferred;
• material - fine sandstone.

Professionals advise sharpening with the blade away from you. It is also noted that if amateurs get down to business, then the blade becomes dull, and in some cases the “sharpeners” break.

mechanical method

If you have it on hand, you can use it. To carry out the procedure, you will need the following:

• the apparatus itself;
• an ax with a blade;
• grindstone with two working surfaces;
• finishing paste;
• marker;
• goniometer;
• personal protective equipment for eyes and hands.

The procedure is carried out as follows:

1. The machine must be placed on a level and firm surface.
2. The work surface must be free of defects.
3. If you need to update the sharpening at the existing angle, mark the desired area with a marker.
4. Sharpen with the blade away from you.
5. If the angle is suitable, then fix the result with finishing paste. Lubricate the grinding wheel with it and polish the ax.
6. Be sure to apply a product that protects against corrosion.

Sharpening tips from professionals

1. If you sharpen the ax mechanically, then you need to do this at low speeds.
2. Do not sharpen the grinder.
3. There is no need to rush into sharpening.
4. To keep the ax from dulling for a long time, store it in a protective case.
5. Never sharpen an ax without personal protective equipment.
6. If you doubt your abilities, it is better to turn to professionals.

Work safety

An ax is a rather dangerous thing. So that the trip does not turn into a sad journey, remember the tips on the rules of operation:

1. The head should not hang on the ax handle.
2. When chopping, put timber under the wood.
3. Do not throw the taiga ax on the ground.
4. Do not attempt to cut stone or metal with this tool.
5. When working, you need to take a comfortable position for yourself. There should be plenty of free space around.

Purchase

If you like constant hiking or hunting, then you need equipment such as a taiga ax. Wacha is the most common model among this family of instruments. With it, you can quickly and easily chop and process wood.

If you want to purchase a forged taiga ax, then make sure that a protective cover is included. hallmark this brand of tools is considered a handle. It is made of strong varieties of birch. Wood impregnated and processed.

We have considered how to make a taiga. If you can’t make it yourself, you can always find a product in a store.