We make a tripod for a bowler hat with our own hands. Suspension of pots and cooking utensils. From A to Y. Features of using tripods

Hello. Today I want to tell you about how I made a tripod for a fire.

... As I have already mentioned many times, my friends and I occasionally go by car to the forest, where we live in tents for several days. This tradition has been going on for more than twenty years, and we are slowly "growing" with things necessary for a comfortable rest in the forest. Among them is a tripod for a fire, which freed us from such an occupation as searching the forest for suitable "slingshots" and a crossbar, with their subsequent installation near the fire. The tripod that we purchased was of the following plan (photo from the Internet. Now is not the season, and ours is hidden somewhere on the far shelf.)):

During operation, a number of shortcomings became clear, namely:

1. There is no way to quickly adjust the height of the cauldron's suspension. (On fires, as a rule, there is no "twist" to quickly make the fire smaller)))) With abundant boiling, one thing remains - to regulate the heating by raising or lowering the cauldron (boiler). To do this by hanging to another link in the chain is good only in theory! In practice, at least two people are needed - one lifts the cauldron (and it is heavy!), The other outweighs the chain. And even together to do it on outstretched arms over a flaming fire and a boiling cauldron is still a pleasure!)))). In addition, if you outweigh it high, then the rest of the chain strives to dip into the boiler))).

2. Insufficient width! We have a large company, and if, for example, a fifteen-liter boiler is hanging, then it should hang only below! It cannot be lifted, since the "legs" are tapering from above. In order for it to fit high too, the tripod must be more than two meters in height ...

3. Insufficient compactness. Even when folded, it is over a meter long! Not every trunk goes along, or across! And if you put it diagonally, it takes up a lot of useful space!

4. It cannot be set aside if it is temporarily not needed! That is, I would like the tripod in the assembled state to be a rigid structure that can be put on a glove (it can be hot!) Just temporarily set aside, and then just as easily put back into place. (And with it did not change its geometry, even if it was carried by one "leg") And ours, when we try to lift it, folds. (And she is hot!))). That is, you can still remove it and throw it aside, but now, putting it back over a blazing fire is problematic! You need to wait for the fire to go out a little.

Considering all these points, I decided to make a new one with my own hands. And here's what I got:

In this photo, it is not fully expanded. The lower sections of the "legs" are telescopic !! If you extend them, then the height from the ground to the hook (in its upper position) is 1m. 60 cm !! It's just that now is not the season for going "to nature" and I photographed her in a room whose dimensions did not allow such a massive structure to be completely taken into the frame.))))

Here's what I needed to make it:

1. Profile pipe with a section of 15 by 15 mm.
2. Profile pipe, section 20 by ... mm. (Needed for making a U-shaped guide, so any trimming will do shaped pipe with one wall 20 mm)
3. Sheet metal 5 mm thick. (I have - "corrugated", it is not necessary)
4. Cutting the M14 stud.
5.square (rolled) 10 by 10 mm.
6.square (rolled) 12 by 12 mm. (It is necessary to strengthen the bending points ("knees") of the pipe - "fifteen", so short cuts are suitable).
7. Suspended spring element from the system false ceilings Armstrong.
8. Wire with a diameter of 4 mm.
9.Cutting a 16 mm rolling tube. (Not necessary.)
10. Bolts M6 25 mm long. (3 pcs. For the manufacture of axles "legs")
11. M6 cap nuts. (For the same.)
12. M6 wing bolts. (3 pcs. For fixing telescopic parts.)
13. Nuts М6. (Normal)
14. Nuts М14.
15. Wing bolts М5 (3 pcs.)
16. Wing nuts M5 (3 pcs).
17. Heat-resistant enamel.

I wrote this list - and I myself am in shock !!! After all, he was making something simple, one might say, primitive product, and a lot of names of materials were required!
But nothing!! We're not looking for easy ways!!! The product has turned out, and it meets all the criteria laid down by me! And that means that time and effort were not wasted !!

So where did I start? .. Do you think with a drawing? If so, then you are only partly right!
The fact is that I never make drawings of my homemade products! This takes time, but it is always not enough! Besides, homemade products are my hobby! This means that each product is made in a single copy! Therefore, after its manufacture, the drawing will certainly not be needed! And since God did not offend me with spatial thinking, I prepare all the "drawings" of homemade products only in my head! As a rule, I do this while driving, where I spend a lot of time, spinning around the city every day. And I draw individual parts only on the blanks, before taking up the grinder!)))) And if I need the size I need to intuitively "translate into meters", then I imagine the future detail, holding a tape measure in my hands, looking at it, and mentally trying on a future detail for it))))

But now I still sketched a little ... That is, I just drew a sketch of a tripod as large as I would like, on a 1: 1 scale on a sheet of cardboard.))).

And then it's easier. Applying the blank to the sketch, I made one of three main elements. (I started with the upper legs).

According to my idea, this part will have at the ends two short "shoulders" bent at a certain angle. The upper "arms" will be clothed with ends on the axle, and by means of them are hinged to the upper plate. The upper and lower plates will be pulled together by the M14 hairpin, and the "shoulders", being clamped between them, will provide a rigid attachment of the "legs" and the desired angle of their placement ...
In short ... Here, look at the photo of the finished product, you will immediately understand everything))):

If the hairpin is loosened and the plates are spread apart, then "the legs can be folded to a position where their long parts become parallel:

That is, the folding mechanism of the main nodes is clear. Pulling the plates with a hairpin, we force the "legs" to move apart until their upper "shoulders" are firmly clamped between the plates. The structure will take on a rigid final shape.

Since it is impossible to bend the profile pipe at the required angle, I, having estimated the required length of the "shoulders" and the required angle using the template (sketch), made cuts?

Since the upper "shoulders" will have to withstand heavy loads, I decided to strengthen them. Cut out one wall:

I cut three segments from square rolled products 12 by 12 mm and made transverse cuts in them with a depth of about half:

Then, Bent to the desired angle using the "sledge hammer and impact method"
I "measured" the angle by applying the blanks to my sketch.

After that, I hammered the resulting amplifiers into the pipe:

Then he bent the "opened" parts to them and boiled them well, paying attention to the notch in the place of the fold.

After preliminary processing with a grinding wheel, I drilled holes under the axle:

That's it ... The upper "shoulder" is ready. I did the bottom one with similar amplifiers, only I had to cut off the "shoulders" completely, hammer in short amplifiers, and then boil it, because the design there will be slightly different:

Having found the center, I drilled holes for the hairpin in them:

From a cut of a pipe with one wall of 20 mm, I cut out three "landing" for the upper "shoulders" (I have them, as we remember, square section with a side of 15 mm, and the inner size of the landing turned out to be 16 mm.):

And welded them to the top platform.

Here I will describe my mistake. Initially, I planned to screw in the pin from the bottom, so I welded an M14 nut to the top plate, protecting its thread from metal splashes with wet paper:

But, already at the first "fitting" it became clear that it is very inconvenient to twist the hairpin from below - the "legs" interfere. So I drilled a thread into this nut and welded a similar nut to the bottom plate. The pin will now screw in from above.

In the corners of the bottom platform, I cut out the "legs". Now, when we clamp our structure, the lower platform into which the hairpin is screwed in will not be able to rotate.

The next thing I started was making a comfortable knob from a hairpin. First things first, I drilled a 6mm axial hole in it. I will need this in order to make a "tricky", smoothly height-adjustable cauldron suspension mechanism, which I will talk about later ...

The hole was difficult to drill. Drilled in a vice. To do this, I screwed three nuts and "locked" them well. For them and held in a vice so as not to spoil the thread:

He constantly lubricated the drill, drilled at low speed, monitored the parallelism of the drill in all planes ... And the drill was short. Then I had to aim from the other side ...
But it worked!

To make the knob, I screwed two nuts onto the end of the stud and welded them:

Then he drilled two blind holes in their edges (so that they could reach the hairpin), hammered bolts into them and welded:

.... And I realized that I was wrong again !!!
Since my tripod when folded in cross-section will have a triangular shape, it would be logical to make the case for it triangular! And such a crank will in any case protrude beyond the tripod ...

So I cut off one bolt:

And welded two:

Such a knob can be turned so that it does not stick out beyond the upper triangular plate, and it will be even more convenient to rotate it than a bolt with two knobs.

Then I started making the lower parts of the "legs". As planned, they will be telescopic. A 10 by 10 square will come out of the 15 by 15 pipe.
(The profile pipe has a wall thickness of 1.5 mm. Theoretically, there should be a 12 by 12 square bar from which I made amplifiers. But in practice, it is only hammered there with a sledgehammer, since the pipe is welded and has a weld inside. Therefore, I chose a smaller section).
The telescopic extensions will be clamped in the desired position with wing bolts. Therefore, having cut out three pieces of pipe of the required length, I drilled in them closer to the edge of the hole with a diameter of 8 mm, and welded over them with an M6 nut:

This was difficult enough to do with arc welding. To fix it in the desired position and to protect the thread from metal splashes, I used a bolt, which I do not mind))))

Cut off the "excess" from all pipes behind the welded nut:

I put it on rods:

Welded and sharpened:

Such a structure will protect the inside of the pipe from clogging with earth if we stick it into the ground without expanding the telescopic part, and, at the same time, will serve as limiters - it will not allow the rods to go inside when folding more than necessary ... And it looks somehow "more organic".)))))
... Initially, I thought about how to limit the departure of these elements. And, even, he came up with ... but abandoned this idea because then the telescopic structure would not be collapsible! And if sand gets inside, it will be problematic to clean it! Therefore, I decided to exclude this moment, and in order not to accidentally stick out the "legs" more than expected, just paint their upper part with red enamel. As soon as red appeared - stop! You cannot push further!

Now we will make the top mount. As planned, it should take shape. But you can't make it telescopic - the "knee" on the upper part interferes. And if you just do the folding to the side on the axis, then there will not be enough rigidity. So I came up with a compromise solution like this:

The "legs" will fold on the axis, but by expanding them 180 degrees, you can move a little back so that their ends enter the pipe of the upper part, and clamp them in this position with a wing bolt with a wing nut. The result is a rigid fastening at two points - the hinge "will be immobilized by a telescopic moment!"

I implemented it as follows:
I cut off three pieces of a square with a side of 12 mm and drilled holes with a diameter of 6 mm in them:

Then, with a grinder, I cut one side along.

Everyone who went on hikes knows how important it is to be able to quickly and efficiently cook hot food at a halt. Experienced tourists can make a fire in any weather, reliably hang a pot over a fire, cook soup or porridge with a smell of haze. For those who are just starting to walk on the ground with a backpack on their shoulders, the experience of seasoned hikers will help.

A bowler hat tripod is the most transparent and obvious way to hang it over a fire.

In a stationary tourist camp or when traveling by car, it is convenient to use the grill for cooking. However, for walking or traveling by boat, this thing is too cumbersome. A barbecue frame is often used. This allows several vessels to be placed in a row over the fire. However, carrying this design is still difficult.

A bowler hat tripod is the most transparent and obvious way to hang it over a fire. There are, of course, numerous ways to strengthen cookware over a fire:

• On the stand - a leg with horizontal rods, on each of which there is a separate pot, the structure is usually made of metal;
• On two spears with a transverse stick that can hold several vessels;
• On a rope stretched between two sticks - racks;
• On an inclined pole fixed with stones;
• On a tripod;
• On 2 tripods with a pole or rope fixed between them.

The slingshot or rack must be stuck or driven into the ground. Tripods differ in that they are suitable for all types of soil, even rocky ones.

Tripods differ in that they are suitable for all types of soil, even stony ones.

A tripod is easy to make from scrap materials on the spot. This requires only 3 sticks and a rope to secure them. The support woods may be crooked, this will not degrade the quality of the structure. Any rope is also suitable, even a synthetic cord, but it is preferable to take a cotton cord with you.

Moving the rope fastening the poles, as well as shifting and expanding the supports, change the height of the suspension of the pot above the fire. This allows you to adjust the degree of heating.

You need a hook to hang the bowler hat. A bowler hanger is also good to take with you outdoors, carving it out of wood is a difficult and time-consuming task. It is convenient to hang the dishes on the S-shaped steel hook.

It is convenient to hang the dishes on the S-shaped steel hook.

What is required for construction. Required materials and tools

The tripod can be easily purchased in the store, the price of a cheap model for March 2019 is a little more than 200 rubles. Such a tripod consists of three pieces of a hollow profile of a rectangular or circular cross-section, fastened together with a screw and a nut. A steel chain with a hook is put on the screw. Profile thickness about 1 mm. The tripod weighs a little and can be stored in a case.

A more robust design consists of three legs passed through a triangular notched plate. The armature is fastened with screws. There is a hole in the center of the plate, through which the chain for the kettle is passed and fixed at the top.

Robust design consists of three legs passed through a triangular plate with cutouts.

The disadvantages of this product include the difficulty of adjusting the height of the suspension of the pot. In theory, this is done by hanging the bowler hook onto another link in the chain. In practice, doing this is hot and hard. We have to work together: one lifts the bowler, the other hooks on the hook at the desired height.

Therefore, for those who use a tripod constantly, it makes sense to make the device yourself. Conscientiously, the thing done will serve for a long time and will not fail in difficult times.

A self-made metal product will eliminate the need to look for suitable tree at the place of the halt. There is no need to chop down young trees. For this alone, it is worth making a tripod in advance.

No drawing is required to make a secure support. To make a simple but high-quality tripod, you need 3 pieces of aluminum or steel pipe. If steel billets are used, the walls should be thin to reduce the weight of the finished product.

To make a simple but high-quality tripod, you need 3 pieces of aluminum or steel pipe.

To fasten the tubes together and form a suspension point, 3 steel bolts with nuts and lugs are required. 2 steel S hooks and a chain to hang the pot.

From the tools, you need to prepare a hammer, a metal saw - a hand or grinder and pliers. The manufacturing process is simple and does not take much time.

Material preparation

Preparatory work and assembly are carried out in the sequence given below:

1. The pipe sections must have the same size and be from 150 to 200 cm. Using a saw, give them equal length;
2. The hinge of one of the bolts is slightly unclasped with pliers. The hinges of the remaining 2 bolts and the upper link of the chain are threaded into it. Then the loop is again clamped with a hammer to ensure the reliability of the structure;
3. The ends of the bolts with threaded nuts are inserted into separate pipe sections. If the bolt enters the cavity freely and dangles, flatten the pipe with a hammer above and below the nut;
4. To hang the pot, one of the steel hooks is put on the lower link of the chain, its upper loop is clamped with a hammer. This ensures that the hook does not jump off at the most crucial moment;
5. A second hook is threaded into the chain link, 3 - 4 - 5 links from the top, and the loop is also fixed with a hammer. The design will allow you to raise the pot by engaging several chain links on the lower loop.

The resulting tripod folds easily. Suspension height adjustment is possible not only by means of a chain, but also by sliding and extending the support reinforcement.

Suspension height adjustment is possible not only due to the chain, but also due to the sliding and expansion of the support reinforcement.

Another option for a homemade tripod is made from pieces of din-rail. In this case, it is useful to make the legs consist of 2 parts, which will allow you to get a more compact product. The halves of the supports are fastened with bolts - thumbs, and at the top of the legs are connected with metal wire.

A stronger structure will be obtained from a steel profile pipe. The upper parts of the supports are folded over to form a shoulder and fixed between two steel plates fastened with a hairpin. It is impossible to simply bend the profiled steel, so you have to cut out the corners, bend at the cut, and then weld it together. The severity of the product obtained, the need to think over the reliable fastening of the shoulders between the plates, limit its use. It is better to settle for a simpler and more easily implementable model.

A stronger structure will be obtained from a steel profile pipe.

How to hang a pot on a tripod over a fire

If the tripod for the pot is made by hand, then hanging the vessel over the fire will not be difficult. Everything has already been calculated and foreseen.

If the tripod for the pot is made by hand, then hanging the vessel over the fire will not be difficult.

However, sometimes you have to improvise. If the need to cook food arises in winter, against the background of cold snowy spaces, and special devices no, how then to hang the pot over the fire? It is convenient to use ski poles as tripod legs. By tying the loops together, it is easy to get a reliable connection. And the hook to hang the bowler hat can be replaced with a piece of any rope.

Video: Tripod for a cauldron with your own hands

We all love to go to nature, relax, grill kebabs and cook porridge. To cook porridge in nature, you must definitely hang the cauldron over the fire, and how to do it? Of course, with the help of a tripod, which will confidently hold the bowler hat. Today we will learn how to make a tripod with our own hands, so as not to spend a lot of money on a new one in stores.

How to make a tripod with your own hands?

The main thing that is required of a tripod is strength and compactness, and for us, of course, cheapness. It is from these considerations that we will make a tripod from DIN rails. Let's prepare the materials for the tripod, we need:

DIN rails, length 50-70 cm, 6 pcs.
... Screws and nuts suitable for the cell size in the rails, 6 pcs.
... Chain, 1mm thick, 60cm.
... Wire, diameter 2-3mm., 20-30cm.

Having prepared the materials, we can proceed.

1. In DIN rails, 3 pieces, holes should be made with a drill, 3-4 mm in diameter. See the photo for the hole locations. Then insert a piece of wire into the holes made and bend it into a triangle shape.

Thus, we have already obtained a base for a tripod with a height of 60 cm.

Now our tripod has grown and the camp is over 1 meter.

3. Now we turn to the chain, at one end we attach a hook so that it is convenient to hang the cauldron, and the other end is pulled from bottom to top through the upper hole in the tripod. And near the hole itself, we push a pin through the chain to fix it.

Now the tripod is ready, you can test it in the field!

I think many, if not all, faced such a problem as Hanging Cooking Utensils over Fire in the Forest... To be honest, this topic is more voluminous and extensive than many think, and even two publications will not be enough to fully disclose it, because each type contains many subtleties. Even fast to boil boiling water for tea - Science.
In this article, I want to cite not everything, but at least in my opinion more successful designs systems for suspension without delving into their subtleties.
I will dwell in more detail on only the 3 best options.

ZY I warn in advance about the large volume of the article. (For owners of slow Internet)

All the names of the options were invented by me personally, so please treat them with humor and in no case include common sense.

So, let's begin.
Let's go from the end ...

From the so-called classics, which is hard not to mention, and which one way or another has to deal with periodically, sometimes not on their own. We will talk about serious options from the middle of the article, where everyone can rewind if he is not interested.
Although to be honest, when I wrote all this it was interesting even for me, although I did these options more than once in real life and thought through the text of this article before writing.

1) The method with the Horns

The first method that I will consider will be the oldest and probably the simplest. These are the well-known 2 spears stuck into the ground and a pole placed on them on which the kettle (s) is hung.

I want to propose a slightly modernized design, which in my opinion is much more convenient than the standard one.
If possible, you can find a spear similar to this (with as many knots as possible) and provide yourself, although rather inaccurate, but still adjust the height of the suspension of the pot over the fire.

Advantages and disadvantages

(-) Minuses

• It takes an ax, or a set of funds, to cut and then hammer in the pegs.
• It will take some time to find the right spears and poles.
• The need for periodic replacement of components due to their burnout
• Rather low suspension comfort.
  (Poor height adjustment and absolute inconvenience when hanging / removing the pot. And when using\u003e 1 pot, this task becomes almost impossible.)

(+) Pros

• The ability to build this suspension with a minimum of things
• No need to carry with you

2) Physical way

Advantages and disadvantages

I will not repeat myself, because this method and the next one are quite similar, therefore, all the advantages and disadvantages here are the same as in Point # 1, although there is one very good delicacy here.
Unlike these 3, in this way no need to have tools for chopping pegs... For him, you just need to find 2 suitable logs, stone or any other suitable object, therefore he has tremendous versatility. This suspension can be built without even having a single tree around; you just need to find a piece of a stick and a couple of stones.

• Improved convenience of height adjustment, although we pay for this by the impossibility of hanging 2 or more pots.

3) Tourist-Physical way

See option 2, all the advantages and disadvantages are identical.

4) Other variations of the method with the Horns

This class directly related to method number 1, only it has undergone some changes in connection with the visual (-) thereof. Namely, in most cases, it is impossible to stick 2 stakes into the ground, or for example there are simply no trees, so we put our crossbar either on 2 large stones, or simply on the snow (in winter), under a layer of which a fire burns in a trench dug earlier, or else on anything, depending on the situation.




See Option # 1

So let's move on to Vkusnyashki, namely to my favorites.

As I said, let's go from the end. Here I will give 3 of the best, in my opinion, hangers for bowlers.
3 a place:

5) Campfire Cable

Everyone's favorite and I think almost everyone is a well-known campfire rope.
Here I want to give not a purchased one, but my homemade and invented version. I want to warn you that the technology is patented by me personally, therefore everything is "Patented" ©.

Suspension option in general plan

Construction device:
The structure consists of a Rope (2m and 1.5mm thick) at the ends of which a re-cord is attached
(the length of the re-cord is selected individually, but I want to warn you that too long re-cord begins to interfere a lot when knitting and reeling
(I have it 3 and 5 m. At one end, I advise you to make it longer, simply because it is more convenient. Why - you will understand on the spot))
the thickness of which is not less than 3mm.
(mine is 4mm, but again, it all depends on your requirements. If you plan to hang canals of 10 liters on it, then both the cord and the cable should be taken much thicker. I have an option of no more than 10 liters in total.)
The cable is tied to the cords using special fasteners.
(The "cable connector", which includes the cable itself, can be purchased at any hardware store. You should also purchase cable lugs there - extremely useful thing, which prevents the cable from branching and the possibility of pricking at the end)
Knot - any loose loop, preferably not loosening the rope too much
(In this case, the figure eight).

This structure is stretched between 2 trees with a thickness of 10 cm
(So \u200b\u200bthere will be no problems with the wind, although you can tie at least for seedlings)
at a height of about a belt. The pulling force can be made more, but within reasonable limits, do not break the cable.


We have dealt with static elements, now about dynamic ones. And this is the 2nd part of this design, namely the chain.
(Or chains, depending on how many kotecs you need to hang)
(The chain is also taken from a hardware store, you can have one like mine, you can use a regular one, it doesn't matter at all. The diameter depends on your requirements, respectively)
A hook is attached to the top and bottom of the chain, which can be bent out of the same chain, but it is better to make it from a stronger wire. (I made from unnecessary bicycles)
Why 2 hook more ...

The point is that the chain-hooks are one whole, thereby eliminating the eternal problem of this option - the rapid loss of hooks-Integrals.

Another "scourge" of this method is the impossibility of hanging the bowler hat at any particular point, it always strives to slide to the center. In my version, I solved this problem by using the chain itself on which the bowler is hanging as brakes while not using additional bells and whistles in order to save weight.
The chain is: The chain itself has hooks on its 2 sides, while a bowler is hanging at one end of it, while the other end is bent over the cable and fixed to itself with a hook.
At the same time, we also get the ability to adjust its length if we need to raise or lower the boiler and this can be done both with the lower hook and with the upper one.


The cost of all components in total should turn out to be no more than 180 rubles, in contrast to the purchased ones for more than 200 wooden ones.
(Mine cost me a little less than 110, taking into account the purchase of 3 sets of chains (for 3 boilers))

I'll run ahead into the pros and write here first, so as not to clog the text with DiN.
About the Pros, Its most probably its main plus, because of which I often take it instead of those that occupy the 1st and 2nd places - let's call it so, "Soul". None of the options, well, with the exception of probably only 1 method (which is with spears) does not have something that attracts, so to speak, complements the situation. What else can be compared to a cable hanging over a fire, to which a kettle is suspended, and some gloves, mugs and other households are stuck on the sides. accessories ... In my opinion, nothing!

Advantages and disadvantages

(-) Minuses

• The need to carry with you, with all that it implies ...
• Unlike "Classic", you need to buy and then make
• Possibility to pull only where there are 2 closely spaced trees
• Inability to adjust the position of the pot along the OX axis (Perpendicular to the cable)

(+) Pros

• "Soul"
• Durability
• Quite good control over the position of the pot over the fire. (From height to location (Along the cable along the OY axis))

6) Tripod

Probably the simplest and cheapest suspension option, while having quite a few drawbacks. So to speak, almost perfect price / quality ratio for a small group.

In order not to repeat, tk. I have already described this option, I will give only a link to the article.
Here I will only describe the most important features in my opinion.

This tripod is made of 3 legs made of poles of almost any shape
(Mine in the photo is made precisely of curves, due to the absence of straight poles)
Legs are tied with a rope.

The position of the pot is adjusted by moving the support legs.
We move them closer to the center - the boiler rises; We push it apart - it goes down.
Moving is the same, depending on the desired position, we move one or more legs.

If desired, a regular rope with a wooden hook can be replaced with a Repschnur with a chain attached to the end with a hook at the end. (as in the previous method)
In this case, the functionality of the option increases even more, while the cost will not exceed 20 rubles.

Legs, if desired, can also be made of aluminum, but I already consider this a step towards decreasing functionality and unnecessary.

Advantages and disadvantages

(-) Minuses

• Impossibility of hanging\u003e 1 bowler hat (It is necessary to tie an additional rope, or think of something for hanging on 1 hook)

(+) Pros

• Absolute control over the position of the pot over the fire (All XYZ axes)
• Durability
• Cheap manufacturing
• Doesn't interfere with walking around the fire
• Versatility (The structure is possible even in the absence of trees (Racks can be of any shape)
• Lightweight and compact to carry

7) Taganok

So 1st place - Taganok, made either in advance from metal, or already directly on the spot from stones, poles, and other materials at hand.

Unfortunately, I did not find a photo of the taganka in my archives, so in this version I had to turn to third-party pictures from the Internet and Photoshop.

So what is the main advantage of this seemingly non-compact, heavy version?
And the whole class of this method is that it is the only one that can not only cook, but also fry, bake bread, etc.
This means that it is better than all other options most suitable for cooking. Moreover, this the only option
(he probably can only compete with a fire rope, but again, not in everything) which the best way fits for cooking for a large group.

Below I want to give a quick-and-dirty diagram of my own portable taganka, which I periodically use if I go on a hike not alone, but in 3 or more.


In the diagram:
Red - marked hollow tube bent by letter "P". (It is desirable if it is thick-walled)
Blue - thin fittings, for legs
Brown - Earth and
Black - Bowler hat

Also, if desired, taganoks can be made on-site from scrap materials, for example:

Advantages and disadvantages

(-) Minuses

• In most cases, insufficient adjustment of the position of the pot along the OX axis (Perpendicular to the taganka)
• Pre-fabrication required (Although it is possible to fabricate on site)
• The metal version cannot always be stuck in the ground

(+) Pros

• Unlike other options, there is the possibility of cooking for a large group
• Adjustment of the position of the pot in height, axis OY (along the tag) and partially OX (perpendicular to it)
• Durability
• The ability to make from scrap materials
• The ability to fry something, bake, etc.

ZY:

I would be glad if this article is useful to someone.
If anyone knows more ways, write below, I think not only I will be interested in learning something new ...

Thanks for watching!
All photos were taken from my archive, so I am ready to answer any questions.

One of the benefits of outdoor recreation is cooking over an open fire, which makes fish soup, kulesh, and even simple tea incredibly delicious. But it is not always possible to find suitable stones to build a kind of hearth. Therefore, take with you a light tripod from aluminum tubes – perfect solution, since it does not take up much space, it is quickly assembled and convenient to use. Of course, you can buy a finished factory-assembled product, but for a craftsman who loves to do everything with his own hands, this is not interesting.

Required materials and tools

To build a trekking tripod, you will need the following materials:

• 3 pieces of aluminum or thin-walled steel pipe, 150-200 mm long. The longer the pipes are, the higher the tripod will turn out.
• 3 steel eye bolts.
• 3 S-hooks.
• Metal chain to hang the pot.

Of the tools you will need:

• Hammer.
• A grinder or a hacksaw for metal.
• Pliers.

Making a hiking tripod

Now you can proceed directly to the assembly of the tripod. If pipes of greater length were prepared, they must be cut to a convenient length, which can be any.
To connect the bolts together, you need to unclench one of the hinges a little so that you can put on the other bolts.

The most convenient way to do this is by holding the bolt in a vise, and the ring is opened with pliers or a gas wrench. This is the hardest part of assembling the tripod, so it takes a little tinkering.
When the lug is sufficiently depressed, the rings of the other two bolts and one end of the chain are put on it.

After that, with the help of a hammer, the unclenched ring is compressed so that the worn elements do not fall out and the structure remains intact.
The tripod legs are connected in this order.
The end of a bolt with a nut screwed onto it is inserted into one of the ends of the pipes. If the nut in the pipe loosely dangles, then you need to knock on the pipe on a hard base just above and below the nut and flatten it a little. This will allow you to securely fix the nut in the pipe so that the tripod does not fall apart at the most inopportune moment.

When this is done, an S-shaped hook is put on the chain 3-5 links from the top of the tripod, which will allow you to adjust the height of the dishes above the fire.
Advice! The end of the hook, which is put on the chain, must be clamped with a hammer or pliers so that it does not fall out and is not lost during transportation.
If the chain is too long, then it must be shortened so that the dishes are positioned several centimeters above the ground with the tripod unfolded.

Another S-shaped hook is put on the last link of the chain, the end is clamped. The crockery will be hung on this hook: a cauldron, a kettle, a kettle or other suitable utensils.

You can adjust the height of the dishes above the fire by moving the tripod legs or by hooking the chain with several links on the upper hook.

Of the advantages of this design, it should be noted its compactness and ease of folding / unfolding.

If desired, you can slightly expand the functionality of the tripod. For example, you can drill holes in the legs and attach additional hooks on which you can dry your shoes or hang dishes away from the fire so that the food does not cool.
Note! When lighting an open fire in nature, you must follow the rules fire safety! You also need to watch out for clothes or shoes that are dried over a fire so that they do not burn. To do this, the tripod legs must be long enough so that the bottom of them can be located at a sufficient distance from the fire and remain cold.