What conifers cover for the winter. Shelter of conifers for the winter: how to shelter and protect conifers. Yew, shelter for the winter

It seems that conifers even in middle lane Russians feel absolutely calm in winter, because we are used to seeing spruce and pine trees in our forests. However, now on household plots more and more often other conifers appear that are not quite familiar in our region. These are arborvitae, Canadian spruces, cypresses, yews, junipers. When buying coniferous bushes and trees, it is important to pay attention to the frost resistance of the variety. But, even if you made the right choice, the plant must be prepared for winter, especially in the first two to three years after planting.

Preparation for winter for conifers must begin in advance. From the beginning of August, they stop fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers, in order to reduce the growth of young shoots that will not have time to ripen by winter and, of course, will freeze.

Podzimny watering

If winters in your area are frosty, late autumn and deciduous and coniferous trees and shrubs should be well watered. This will help them to endure frosts more easily. Winter watering is done after the trees shed their leaves. Shed the soil 50 - 60 cm deep around the entire circumference of the crown (this is where the thin absorbent roots are located), and not just near the trunk. The thing is that wet soil does not freeze and cool less than dry soil. This is especially important if the winter is expected to be snowless, but with frost. Of course, with a rainy autumn, there will be enough moisture even without watering.

If you properly water the trees in late autumn, the trunk and crown will be saturated with moisture. I repeat, this is also important for deciduous trees, for their spring
sap flow, but especially for evergreens. In early spring, when the sun begins to bake, the needles will actively evaporate moisture. And the earth is still frozen, the tree has nowhere to replenish its water supplies. And the needles just dry out from the wind and sun. We often see whitish, thinned, lifeless needles in spring, which then crumble.

Trunk circles must be mulched with organic matter, you can use sawdust, needles or spruce branches. This is especially important for young conifers planted this or last year. In early spring, the mulch should be removed so that the soil under the trees warms up more quickly.

Strengthening the crown from snow

Imagine how heavy the heavy snow that falls on them is for the thin branches of coniferous trees. Even if they do not break off, it will be difficult for them to recover in the spring, they will lose their decorative effect for a long time. Therefore, in the fall they must be tied with twine, preferably synthetic, it will not get wet and will not tear. Small coniferous trees and bushes can be wrapped with a net.

The trees planted this year have not yet had time to properly take root in the ground. Therefore, they must be fixed with stretch marks.

Shelter from frost

Ephedra are not sissies, they suffer more not from frost, but because they did not have time to take root at the landing site, did not grow a large number of new roots, and were not saturated with moisture. Often, it is enough to simply wrap conifers with twine or net so that the branches do not break off. You can cover only young ones planted this year or not frost-resistant, but it is better not to buy such.

Evergreen trees do not "fall asleep" for the winter, unlike deciduous ones. Their green needles or leaves continue to produce chlorophyll in winter, but only to a lesser extent. And for the production of chlorophyll, as you know, sunlight is required. Therefore, it is impossible to cover evergreen trees with dense, light-transmitting material. If you doubt the frost resistance of your conifer, loosely tie it for the winter with a rare burlap. In no case do not use polyethylene or thick non-woven material, this can lead to the plant dying out, especially if the winter is with thaws. Non-woven materials such as lutrasil, agrotex or spunbond, which are now so popular, are not used in winter. They let heat in and do not give it back, so in winter months plants under them easily rot. But these materials will not save from low temperatures.

Plants are covered only with the onset of stable cold weather, when night temperatures are already below zero. Even non-frost-resistant conifers can easily withstand temperatures down to -5 o C.

Lovers of coniferous plantations living in central Russia dream of an evergreen decoration of the adjacent plot. Despite the frost resistance of conifers, young seedlings need protection for the winter. How we cover the conifers for the winter, and other ways to protect against ice and snow, we will consider in this article.

Why cover winter-hardy crops?

Almost all coniferous plantations from trees to low-growing shrubs are characterized by unpretentiousness and resistance to frost. Both thuja and spruce attract the attention of gardeners not only with their beautiful appearance, but also resistant to diseases, pests, and also exude a wonderful coniferous aroma. In addition, they are excellent antiseptics.

Out of love for decorative look plants, it is planted along alleys, near administrative buildings, as well as in parks and gardens. But, despite such positive characteristics, coniferous plants need shelter for the winter. Namely, young seedlings that are not yet 3-4 years old are considered weak and need protection. Here are two aspects that adversely affect evergreen crops:

strong frosty wind;
spring Sun rays reflecting off the snow.

Why wind and sunlight? The fact is that the winter wind causes severe dryness of the branches, and from a lack of moisture they freeze, break off and die. If you watched a beautiful spruce with a withered shoot and yellowed needles, then you should know that this happened due to a cold and strong wind. If the needles of trees are able to withstand severe frost, then she does not like the wind.

Everyone knows that the thaw at the end of February and March is characterized by a bright sun, the rays of which are reflected on the white snow. At this time, sap flow has not yet begun, and shrubs are still weak and vulnerable. Then pine needles and green thuja legs under bright light can get sunburned. Therefore, there is a need to shelter the culture for the winter, not to mention the break of branches under the weight of adhering snow.

Protection for medium height shrubs

To cover for the winter coniferous bushes that have not yet reached the age of 3, we first bend the branches to the trunk of the tree. To do this, we take a twine, preferably green or the same color as the trunk, and, without pressing hard, lightly wrap the cord so that the paws of the stems do not stick out. After that, we take a non-woven material or spunbond, and determine the size of the future bag. Then we fix the seam with a stapler.

To date, manufacturers offer ready-made bags made of agrotex various sizes. Spruce and pine need autumn shelter only in the first year of life.

How to cover shrubs and young trees of medium height so as not to damage the crown and preserve the integrity of the culture as much as possible? For this, a wooden frame is constructed from bars of medium thickness.

Advice! “You can make a frame out of a flexible plastic mesh, which is very convenient because of its flexibility.”

It is better not to install an iron or wire frame, as the metal conducts cold and can cause frostbite of branches.

After preparing the walls of the frame, we wrap it with a covering material. It is better not to use polyethylene for these purposes, as it collects moisture. The moisture accumulated under the film in the winter cold freezes and does not contribute to thermal insulation or leads to decay and mold. In addition, polyethylene may not withstand low temperatures and burst, allowing the penetration of snow and cold wind. To protect coniferous plantations for the winter, it is better to use:

burlap;
spunbond;
kraft paper;
agrofibre;
lutrasin;
agrospan.

Any of the listed materials, except kraft paper, can be stapled to wooden frame. You can wind the insulation around the mesh, connecting the ends into a single seam.

Any agrofibre should be of medium thickness for air to enter (sometimes they leave a small gap or do not fix the top), but not tear from strong gusts of wind. After winter, shelters should be removed in early April or late March, when it gets warmer and sap flow begins. When to open the insulation you will be prompted by moderate melting of snow and air temperature close to 0 ° C.

If your pets have reached the age of 4, and you did not cover them, but only pulled them with twine, then we perform the following frauds. At the end of February, on the south side of the garden, we install an awning from any available covering material. Our goal is to create a shadow curtain so that the conifers do not get sunburn from the blinding sun.

Protection for undersized shrubs

If your juniper or cedar is too young, or you are a fan of undersized crops, then the amount of insulation work is significantly reduced. It is enough to stock up on spruce branches in the forest and cover them with seedlings in the form of cone-shaped houses. Zealous owners prefer to install on top of spruce branches plastic containers for reliable fixation and temperature maintenance.

The industrial business satisfies any demand, and therefore the Moscow region is provided with covering material for planting in full. It is sold in the form of cone-shaped bags with a pulling rope at the bottom. So that the ends of the coniferous paws do not turn yellow, it is enough to use special bags.

Agronomist advice! “For young conifers with a weak root system, it is necessary to sprinkle the place at the roots with sawdust or mulch before sheltering for the winter.”

Extra care

Despite the winter hardiness and unpretentiousness of the culture, mineral dressing will not hurt. Especially for freshly planted crops in the fall, so that they can take root until spring. The plant must be strong and disease resistant. How to feed pets in anticipation of cold weather?

We will describe several steps leading to successful acclimatization and overwintering:

we water in autumn 50-60 cm deep, not only near the root, but also in the radius of the root system. With heavy autumn rains, the procedure is canceled;
near-stem mulching with organic matter (needles, pine bark, sawdust, spruce branches, hay, etc.) is poured in 1–2 layers, not thicker, so that rodents do not make a nest;
feeding with biohumus and compost will support vitality conifers, as well as the introduction of magnesium with dolomite flour;
nitrogen in large quantities and manure can harm plantings;
in the spring at a temperature of +10 ° C, it is recommended to carry out treatment with biostimulants: epin, HB 101, Zircon. Sometimes it is enough to spray the crown with warm water and hide from the sun.

It is much more expedient to take care of the conifers than to restore them as a result of a careless attitude.

Decorative coniferous trees look great in parks, gardens, on adjacent plots, as well as near administrative buildings. These ever-green spaces not only exude a delicate coniferous aroma, but are natural antiseptics. Sick people with diseases respiratory tract good to walk in coniferous forest. But, despite their unpretentiousness, young coniferous plants need protection from harmful influence environment during winter cold.

Young plantations that are not yet 3 years old become especially vulnerable to cold weather. Their main enemies are:

cold frosty wind;
winter thaws accompanied by snowfalls;
sun rays reflecting off the snow.

A strong winter wind dries up the branches, which, when frozen, become brittle and brittle. If possible, it is recommended to plant conifers along buildings that will serve as a screen for plantings from the cold wind.

Attention!

Pine and spruce need shelter only in the first year of planting.

Winter thaws lead to the accumulation of a large amount of snow on the branches and the formation of ice. The branches, weakened by the cold winter wind, often break under the weight of the ice.

A severe burn of the needles of young trees can occur at the end of winter, when a bright sun appears, the rays of which, reflected from the snow, damage coniferous plantations.

Shelter from snow and ice

To protect a yew, cypress or thuja planted with love, it is necessary to cover coniferous trees before the winter cold, especially at a young age. They are wrapped with non-woven materials and fixed with a stapler or put on them with special caps that are commercially available and attached to rods stuck in the ground.

Sun protection

To protect the unsheltered for the winter young tree from spring rays, it is required to install sun protection on the south side before heavy snowmelt. An awning is made from any improvised material:

old sheets sewn together;
old curtains;
covering material.

If there is no desire to put up an awning, you can cover coniferous trees from above with a cloth and secure.

Caring for conifers before shelter

Before proceeding with the shelter of conifers for the winter, it is necessary to carry out a number of additional measures that will contribute to the preservation of young plantations. Produced in autumn:

watering to a depth of 50-60 cm within the radius of the root system (in case of heavy rains, the procedure is canceled);
the introduction of biohumus, compost, dolomite flour will give the plants strength to overwinter;
mulching with needles, spruce branches, sawdust, peat (hay is not recommended due to the possibility of the appearance of rodents) helps to preserve the root system;

Attention!

It is contraindicated in the fall to use manure and nitrogen fertilizers, which will lead the plantations to death in the winter.

Shelter of conifers for the winter

To cover a coniferous tree for the winter, you must first tie it loosely to the trunk of a branch with twine, preferably natural. Then wrap it around:

burlap;
spunbond;
agrofibre;
lutrasil;
kraft paper.

The edges are fixed with a stapler.

Coniferous shelter on the trunk

Plants on trunk require special protection before the onset of cold weather. First thing:

Protect the grafting site from frost and wind. Wrap this place with a covering material and fix it well.
They protect the crown, so it cannot hold a heavy mass of snow and breaks off at the grafting site.

Crown protection can be done in several ways:

iron bars are dug in around the perimeter, they are wound around metal mesh with small cells, put on top a bag of burlap or other covering material;
from wooden slats a frame is knocked together, on which the covering material is stretched in several layers and attached with a stapler;
for especially delicate conifers (fir on the stem "Icebreaker"), wooden boxes with lids are knocked together;
completely wrap the entire tree to the ground with covering material.

By spending a certain amount of time on these activities, you can protect your pets from the vagaries of the weather.

Conifer shelter

November and early December are suitable for sheltering conifers for the winter.

Winter protection of shrubs of medium height

In the Moscow region, the shelter of conifers for the winter is somewhat different due to their size. To cover medium-sized plants from the wind and sun, most often they make a wooden frame, which is wrapped with covering material and fixed with staples using a stapler.

Attention!

In order for the plant to breathe, it is necessary to leave a small gap in the covering material, which will not be torn apart by gusts of wind.

Winter protection for undersized shrubs

For creeping species of juniper and other young conifers, building a shelter for the winter is not difficult. One has only to stock up on spruce branches and cover young plantings in the form of a cone.

Shelter of pine and spruce

Pine and Christmas tree need shelter only in the first year of planting. In order to insulate a young tree, it is necessary to do the following manipulations:

strengthen the conifer by attaching it to a support;
mulch the ground around the trunk and cover with spruce branches;
cover crowns and branches with covering material.

If the tree does not get stronger in the second year of life, shelter should not be neglected.

larch shelter

Larch is not afraid of the cold, and the need for shelter disappears 2.3 years after planting. In places with heavy snowfalls, a tripod is installed above the plant. Wrapped up on top suitable material: lutrasil, burlap, old sheets, etc.

Attention!

Plastic bags are not suitable as covering material! Moisture collects inside them, which leads to mold and plant death.

juniper shelter

This type of conifers is suitable for planting in summer cottages by novice gardeners. The first 3-4 years juniper for the winter must be protected from burns, it also needs warming. Juniper branches are very sensitive to sunlight. First thing:

Tie branches to the trunk with twine.
Wrap the plant with a covering material or garden bandage.
Several metal pins are stuck around the tree, on which a metal mesh is put on.

cypress shelter

In order for conifers to become a worthy decoration of the garden, it is necessary to provide them with proper care throughout the year, and the winter period is one of the most difficult in the life of any plant. Let's figure out what problems conifers face at this time and how to help them painlessly survive possible difficulties.

The territory of our country is huge, it covers several zones of frost resistance, but most of it is located in the 2nd - 4th zones, that is, the extremely low winter temperatures are - 45 ... - 29 ° C, respectively. Therefore, the first thing plants experience in winter is damage from low temperatures. This is especially true for conifers, which can also be characterized by varying degrees of frost resistance.

Pledge successful wintering- selection of a plant with a frost resistance zone corresponding to the planting region or even more frost-resistant. However, we often want to decorate our garden with people from warmer zones.

It should also be taken into account that a plant can be frost-resistant, but not winter-hardy: a lot depends on the specific conditions - on the nursery, where the planting material comes from, the planting site, and the age of the plant.

For example, yellow pine seedlings (Pinus ponderosa) from local nurseries grow and develop successfully, which cannot be said about those brought from abroad. Whole-leaved fir (Abies holophylla) at a young age is characterized by an average winter hardiness, but over the years it increases significantly. Western thuja (Thuja occidentalis) in the conditions of central Russia successfully winters without shelter. Varieties of Japanese larch (Larix kaempferi) BIue Rabbit, Diana and common spruce (Picea abies) Acrocona, Will’s Zwerg can be damaged by late spring frosts- they are recommended to be placed in warm corners of southern and southwestern exposure.

young green

It is recommended to cover all young plantings of conifers for the first couple of winters. Cover as follows: in late autumn (November), sprinkle the root system with peat, dry leaves, sawdust, or cover with spruce branches 6–8 cm thick. Crowns of spherical dwarfs, as a rule, are under snow, which means they are well protected. Plants with a low spreading crown can be bent to the ground and covered with spruce branches. Wrap taller young conifers with kraft paper.

The next problem of the winter period is mechanical damage to plants. These can be frost cracks on the trunks, and the breakage of branches that occurred under the weight of snow, and the consequences of freezing rain. It is possible to prevent the appearance of frost holes on the trunks of large coniferous plants different ways- wrapping the trunk with burlap or a special mat (the latter option is optimal, since pests can find shelter in burlap and air circulates worse under it), after whitewashing the trunks, due to which the sun's rays will be reflected from the surface of the trunk. If frost cracks still appear, then it is necessary to disinfect the wound with a solution blue vitriol and cover it with garden pitch or RanNet.

To avoid breakage of branches, it is recommended to periodically shake off the snow from the plant by lightly tapping frequently. If you do not visit your suburban area, then in late autumn it should be slightly tied with twine branches of spherical and columnar conifers. Narrow-column cultivars (for example, varieties of thuja western Degroot’s Spire, Malonyana) should preferably be tied to strong supports in the fall, otherwise after winter they may look literally like “arches”, leaning to the ground. Plantings of the current year must be secured with stretch marks, which will not allow the plant to be twisted out of the soil with roots.

In no case should you try to warm the needles covered with an ice crust (the consequences of freezing rain) - the ice will melt on its own, and artificial heat can lead to an early awakening of the kidneys. What should be done is to place supports under the branches, as the shoots encased in ice are quite heavy and can break off.

The nature of winter is changeable - thaws come after frosts. Here our coniferous plants face a new danger - warming up. Above all, mountain species of junipers (lying juniper (Juniperus procumbens) Nana), as well as hard-covered or tightly bound plants, are susceptible to this. Therefore, it is highly undesirable to cover them with a dense non-woven material, especially in several layers. It is important to leave gaps, small holes for free air circulation.

With regard to resistance to the problems of late winter and early spring (sunburn, dehydration), conifers can be divided into those that burn (that is, become brown to one degree or another) and those that do not burn (retain the color of the needles with which they left in winter).

The former include Canadian spruce (Picea glauca), western thuja, common juniper (Juniperus communis) and horizontal m. The latter include Norway spruce, e. Serbian (Picea omorika), Scotch pine (Pinus sylvestris), p. Banks (P. banksiana), p. dwarf (P. pumila), Daurian juniper (Juniperus davurica), M. Cossack (Ju. sabina), white fir (Abies alba), single color (A. concolor).

It should be noted that varieties are sometimes more resistant to sunburn than the species. For example, the yew (Taxus baccata) burns, and its variegated cultivars Dovastonii Aurea and Elegantissima are quite resistant. There is also evidence that junipers, which change the color of their needles in the pre-winter period (m. Cossack Femina, m. horizontal Andorra Compact), and varieties of western arborvitae (Yellow Ribbon, Sunkist) burn less or almost do not burn. Burning is not characteristic of larch, which annually sheds its needles. Yet the division is highly arbitrary. Here, as in the issue of winter hardiness, great importance have specific site conditions, plant age, weather conditions of the current winter, as well as some agricultural practices.

Time for shelter?

There are different points of view on the issue of sheltering conifers from spring burns. On the one hand, in winter, the role of conifers in the garden becomes leading, which means that they should appear in all their glory, with their luxurious needles of dark green, bluish, bluish, golden, bronze colors, and not in unsightly burlap zipuns. On the other hand, coniferous plants should be pleasing to the eye in the summer, and not stand as a browned “broom”. Trees and shrubs shaded by shields look more aesthetically pleasing than those wrapped in covering material. In my opinion, this question should be based on whether you spend time in the garden in winter or not. If not, then you can hide, because no one will see the plants anyway. Moreover, shelter from burns is best done at a specific time. This procedure is especially relevant from the second half of winter to mid-April.

If you like to enjoy winter in nature, then it is probably better to refuse shelter. In this case, species resistant to sunburn and low temperatures should be acquired, planted in the most suitable place, taking into account their predilection for light, moisture, and soil type.

A number of agrotechnical measures will also be required. Timely planting (before September), organization of drainage on heavy soils and creation of optimal soil texture for sandy soils(by adding clay, peat), timely fertilization, watering at the end of October (5 - 8 buckets per plant) and covering the root system with a layer of peat, dry leaf or sawdust - these requirements are always desirable to fulfill. Only then will the plants answer you good growth and development.

It is best to use a screen for shelter, installed on the south side of the plants (where the sunlight is most intense). If you need to cover the entire plant, use a special shading net (with 50% or 75% shading) or at least burlap - these materials do not impede the movement of air and do not accumulate solar heat.

For spherical and pyramidal shapes, it can be recommended to build a frame, and then lay a mesh or burlap on top of it - this will help to avoid breaking branches with snow. Non-woven covering materials - spunbond, lutrasil and others - although they are white, do not heat up from sunlight and partially reflect them, they are still able to accumulate heat and do it very well (worse than plastic film, but much better than cut and burlap). There is a slight "greenhouse" effect - plants under spunbond hoods can wake up earlier than without it, and since the roots are still not able to extract moisture from the soil, the problem of sunburn and dehydration will worsen.

Tags: Garden care, Conifers 459

po-sovetu.com

The winter is coming. We warm conifers in our area

Why cover winter-hardy crops?

Almost all coniferous plantations from trees to low-growing shrubs are characterized by unpretentiousness and resistance to frost. Both thuja and spruce attract the attention of gardeners not only with their beautiful appearance, but also with their resistance to diseases, pests, and also exude a wonderful coniferous aroma. In addition, they are excellent antiseptics.

Out of love for the decorative look of the plant, it is planted along the alleys, near administrative buildings, as well as in parks and gardens. But, despite such positive characteristics, coniferous plants need shelter for the winter. Namely, young seedlings that are not yet 3-4 years old are considered weak and need protection. Here are two aspects that adversely affect evergreen crops:

strong frosty wind;
spring sun rays reflecting off the snow.

Protection for medium height shrubs

To date, manufacturers offer ready-made bags of agrotex in various sizes. Spruce and pine need autumn shelter only in the first year of life.

Advice! “You can make a frame out of a flexible plastic mesh, which is very convenient because of its flexibility.”

It is better not to install an iron or wire frame, as the metal conducts cold and can cause frostbite of branches.

burlap;
spunbond;
kraft paper;
agrofibre;
lutrasin;
agrospan.

Any of the listed materials, except for kraft paper, can be stapled to a wooden frame. You can wind the insulation around the mesh, connecting the ends into a single seam.

Protection for undersized shrubs

If your juniper or cedar is too young, or you are a fan of undersized crops, then the amount of insulation work is significantly reduced. It is enough to stock up on spruce branches in the forest and cover them with seedlings in the form of cone-shaped houses. Zealous owners prefer to install plastic containers on top of the spruce branches for reliable fixation and maintaining the temperature regime.

Agronomist advice! “For young conifers with a weak root system, it is necessary to sprinkle the place at the roots with sawdust or mulch before sheltering for the winter.”

Extra care

We will describe several steps leading to successful acclimatization and overwintering:

we water in autumn 50-60 cm deep, not only near the root, but also in the radius of the root system. With heavy autumn rains, the procedure is canceled;
near-stem mulching with organic matter (needles, pine bark, sawdust, spruce branches, hay, etc.) is poured in 1–2 layers, not thicker, so that rodents do not make a nest;
feeding with biohumus and compost will support the vitality of conifers, as well as the introduction of magnesium with dolomite flour;
nitrogen in large quantities and manure can harm plantings;
in the spring at a temperature of +10 ° C, it is recommended to carry out treatment with biostimulants: epin, HB 101, Zircon. Sometimes it is enough to spray the crown with warm water and hide from the sun.

It is much more expedient to take care of the conifers than to restore them as a result of a careless attitude.

vosaduly.ru

Preparing conifers for winter at Sadogolik.ru

Beautiful majestic and persistent coniferous plants remain the only decoration of the garden in the cold winter season. It is traditionally believed that they absolutely do not need any special preparation for the winter. And in most cases this is true. Mature plants - pines, spruces, larches, thujas and junipers, growing on the site for more than one year, can easily endure any harsh Russian winter. But even for them experienced gardeners recommend to carry out some preparatory activities that will allow the trees to feel comfortable even in the most severe frost. Not to mention tender young seedlings, which, without special preparation, can easily die in a harsh winter in a new place.

No matter how surprising it may sound, the main enemy of conifers in winter is not cold, but drought and sunburn.

During periodic winter thaws, the needles begin to work actively, evaporating moisture in the process, and the roots of plants located in heavily frozen ground do not have time to replenish the rapidly wasted moisture reserve. As a result, the plant begins to dry out.

In order to avoid drying of the plant, in October-November, before the onset of persistent cold weather and freezing of the ground, coniferous plants carry out abundant moisture-charging watering. For each mature plant depending on age and weather conditions, at least two to three buckets of water will be required.

It is advisable to wrap young seedlings on the sunny side with any covering material, or protect them with a screen. In no case do not cover the plant with plastic wrap, under it the plants may be exposed to fungal diseases during winter thaws.

Of all coniferous plants, small dwarf crops are the least resistant to cold. As a rule, they endure the winter quite well under a snow cap. In the case when a little snowy winter falls, it is advisable to additionally sprinkle such plants with snow, for example, with garden paths.

Western thuja, Canadian hemlock, some varieties of junipers, black pine and Serbian spruce, as well as any conifers subjected to regular shearing, do not tolerate severe frosts very well, especially at a young age. It is advisable to completely wrap such plants for the winter with covering material.

Small conifers grown in containers can be moved to a bright, cool room with a temperature of about 5 C.

Another danger for coniferous winter is the threat of branch breaks. This can happen, for example, in the event of heavy wet snow. If possible, snow should be swept away in time, and it is advisable to tie vertically growing coniferous trees for the winter with twine. To avoid the needles getting warm inside the crown, the branches should not be squeezed too tightly.

It is important to treat young seedlings in late summer or early autumn with special preparations to combat diseases and pests. Periodically, they need to be inspected and in a timely manner to deal with often occurring problems.

And of course, do not neglect the fertilizer of conifers in the autumn. Phosphorus-potassium top dressing will help the shoots ripen and prepare for winter. At the same time, avoid applying nitrogen-containing fertilizers that stimulate the growth of young shoots.

Do not be alarmed if you suddenly find that the branches of some coniferous plants turn yellow by winter. Microbiota, Pseudotsuga green and some varieties of juniper really turn yellow for the winter, returning to their original appearance in the spring.

sadogolik.ru

Shelter of conifers for the winter - how to protect trees from frost in winter? + Video

Foreword

Coniferous plants in the garden are stylish, beautiful, and prestigious. However, you will have to pay for such beauty - no, not with money, but with the time spent on care. The conifers need your attention especially in winter. In this article we will tell you why you need shelter for conifers for the winter and how to carry it out.

How to cover conifers for the winter

Sheltering conifers for the winter is a very responsible plant protection process, so we recommend that you study the video and other information provided in this article. Already in the fall, when the days are either sunny or rainy, you need to take care of young seedlings. The conifers during this period are not yet strong enough, which means that they can suffer greatly from strong winds or the first frosts. It is the first wintering that is quite dangerous for these plants. There are several ways to hide.

So, if your coniferous tree grows in a tub, then you should definitely bring it into a house or room where a constant temperature is maintained. However, the size of the plants can change your plans - if the trees simply do not enter the door, you will have to think about sheltering coniferous beauties right on the street.

As an effective and inexpensive covering material, you can use spruce branches, which are laid in the form of a hut, covering the plant from top to bottom. By the way, this affordable heat-insulating material can be used to protect other plants from winter frosts.

What to do if you can’t get the spruce branches? Then you can make a covering material in the form of homemade pillows stuffed with sawdust, straw or various rags. If the frosts in your area are very strong, we advise you to use everything in the complex to protect plants - both spruce branches and bags. All your multi-layered protection should be well reinforced so that when strong wind nothing broke. To do this, spruce branches are fixed with staples or simply sprinkled with earth below, and the pillows are tied with twine.

If one-year-old seedlings by autumn have already been planted in open ground, then here it is necessary to approach the shelter of plants for the winter in a somewhat different way. First, the root system should be insulated. To do this, you can pour a large layer of sawdust or peat over the soil in the region of the near-stem circle. Also for these purposes, the spruce spruce branches indicated by us above, laid directly on the ground, or simply coniferous needles, are also suitable.

Branches should be tied with twine so that they are pressed against the trunk. Firstly, then it will be much easier to wrap the plant with heat-insulating material, and secondly, it will protect the branches from wind and heavy snow.

To shelter coniferous plants, you can use a material known as spunbond or agrofibre. It is a special non-woven material with a high degree of resistance to both low and high temperatures air. He is not afraid of precipitation - rain, wind, snow and even hail. A definite plus is that it passes air and steam, so sheltered plants will not suffer from rotting.

Options for protecting conifers for the winter

Polyethylene can also be used to protect trees from frost. Only in this case it is recommended to create a frame from stakes or metal rods and fix the film on top of the frame. If you wrap polyethylene around plants, this is fraught with rotting needles, because the film does not let air through. When creating a frame, make sure that it holds well - it will have to withstand all the gusts of wind and the weight of the snow that has fallen. Watch the video, which details the shelter of conifers and options for protecting plants for the winter - you will get answers to many questions.

Closer to spring, try to close your conifers from sunburn. In spring, the soil has not completely frozen, the circulation of juice has not been restored - in these conditions, direct sunlight dries the needles.

Signs of burns - brown or yellow. So that the trees do not suffer, you should gradually open them to sunlight, increasing the duration every day. However, you can’t keep them closed either - needles can forbid.

In the end, it would not be superfluous to add that in some regions adult conifers may not be covered - for example, in central Russia, spruce trees that are 4 years old or more, adult larches and junipers may not be protected from frost. Winter-hardy in adulthood can also be pines, yews, cedars, arborvitae and fir. But young seedlings of these plants must be covered.

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Preparing conifers for winter

Many of us are trying to ennoble our plots, for which various plants are planted, including conifers. Just about them, or rather about preparing conifers for winter, I will tell in this article. According to tradition, it is believed that conifers in winter time and so they feel good and they do not need to be prepared in any way for the cold. Yes, this is true when it comes to larches, spruces, thujas, pines and other conifers that have been growing in the garden for more than a year. These plants withstand even Russian winters. But still it is believed that for them, and even more so for young seedlings, it is necessary to perform a number of preparatory activities.

Preparing conifers for winter

No matter how strange it may be, but in winter coniferous plants die mostly from drought and sunburn, and not from sub-zero temperatures. When the heat comes quickly in the spring, or if it is a winter thaw, the evaporation of moisture from the needles begins. At the same time, the root system, being in the frozen ground, does not replenish the moisture supply. As a result, the plant begins to dry out. To prevent this in the fall (October-November), you need to carry out abundant watering of coniferous plants in your area. Depending on the size of the plant and the weather, the water consumption should be at least two buckets per plant. With regards to young plants, a covering material or screen is used to protect from the sun. It is worth noting that polyethylene cannot be used for the purposes in question. It contributes to the development of fungal diseases during the thaw period. Among conifers that do not tolerate frost well, it is worth highlighting thuja western, black pine, Serbian spruce, Canadian hemlock, juniper varieties. Those conifers that are regularly sheared endure winter worse, unlike free-growing plants. In regions that are characterized by harsh winters, such plants need to be completely covered for the winter. If the plants are in pots or containers, then they can simply be moved to a bright room, where a temperature of about +5 ° C will be maintained.

In addition to the above, in winter, coniferous plants may break branches. In most cases, this is due to snow. To prevent faults, snow must be shaken off in a timely manner. Conifers that grow vertically, and they include Canadian hemlock, vertical varieties of junipers, as well as western thuja, are tied with twine. But at the same time, it is not necessary to tie the branches too tightly. Otherwise, the inner part of the crown will sag. What else can be added to prepare conifers for winter? If your site has young plants that have recently been planted, before the onset of winter, they can be weakened by fungal diseases, as well as various pests. To avoid this, it is necessary to treat plants at the end of summer or in autumn with the help of special tools. Young plants should be periodically inspected and, if necessary, measures taken to combat emerging problems.

Top dressing of coniferous plants with a nitrogen content is stopped in early August. Thus, the growth of young shoots stops, and they begin to ripen. You can feed the plants with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. There is a possibility of such a situation when the branches of the conifers begin to turn yellow. There is nothing to worry about, because in the spring they will get their normal view. Here is such a small, but I hope useful article on preparing conifers for winter.

Detailed video about preparing conifers for winter

How to cover conifers for the winter Each of us wants to decorate our country cottage area, somehow distinguish it from the rest, and one of the most popular ways is planting coniferous trees. This is due to their beauty, durability and relative unpretentiousness. If the tree takes root, then, in most cases, it will delight for several decades. The most dangerous period after planting is the first winter. This happens due to the fact that it is necessary to plant conifers in the fall, after the end of the growth season, and an immature tree can completely “freeze out” during severe cold weather. Therefore, the question of whether it is necessary to cover conifers for the winter should not sound. Naturally, you can do the old proven method: chop spruce branches, wide spruce branches in the nearest forest and overlay your plantings with them. This method is good for its versatility, and this is also its minus, because it does not take into account individual requirements every tree. And, therefore, in order to achieve the most favorable effect, it is necessary to consider each breed separately. The article will consider ways to "warm" such popular trees as: spruce; pine; larch. juniper; thuja; cypress; yew; fir. We cover the conifers for the winter How to cover the spruce for the winter When we talk about this tree species, we usually mean European or common spruce. It is more unpretentious than most other conifers for the winter cold. The danger lies in two things: - wind and sleet that can break a tree; - spring burns, which can lead to the death of branches. To prevent this, it is necessary, firstly, to strengthen the tree by tying it to a peg driven into the ground or by setting up a tripod. Secondly, to close from the spring sun. For these purposes, both the covering material and the spruce branches indicated above are perfect. It is better to repeat this procedure for the first two or three years. After that, the tree will finally get stronger and will feel great in the winter season. How to cover a pine for the winter Pine is the second most popular tree in the middle forest belt. This is due to both good survival and the attractive appearance of the tree. It would seem that the pine belongs to the same family as the Christmas tree, but because of the structure of the trunk, it is somewhat more demanding than its relative. In the first winter, the branches of a tree can break the adhering snow, which means that it must be covered more thoroughly. The following scheme is best suited: - the branches and crown of the seedling must be covered with covering material - this will protect the tree itself; - line the bottom with spruce branches or cover it with sawdust to protect the root system from freezing. Like spruce, in the fourth year of life, the risk of causing irreparable harm to the tree in the winter season is sharply reduced and there is no need to cover the pine tree. How to cover a larch for the winter Larches are also hardy trees and preparation for winter is obligatory only in the first two or three years. This is done by the same methods as in cases with pine or spruce: - covering the trunk with a tripod or non-woven material; - protection of the rhizome with the help of insulation with sawdust or spruce branches. However, with the last point, things are somewhat better for larch: already in the second year, the fallen needles provide sufficient protection from frost so that the tree survives. How to shelter juniper for the winter Juniper is one of the most optimal choices, for beginner summer residents who want to have something decorative on the site, but from the usual coniferous trees they rubbed calluses before their eyes. Those who planted it on the site have a question: is it necessary to cover the juniper for the winter? Most varieties are extremely hardy, with the exception of a few southern species. In winter for this evergreen shrub, besides already known problems, are also dangerous: - scrapping of branches; - spring and winter sun, which can lead to burns. In the first years of life the best option there will be a careful wrapping of the trunk with ropes, pulling them together a little. This will save the crown of the seedling. After, the best option there will be the creation of a shelter by means of poles stuck into the ground, which create a pyramid and the closure of this structure with a covering material. The top must be left so that the juniper can breathe in its shelter. When the tree grows up, the creation of such structures becomes difficult and the crown of the tree is usually wrapped in covering material, pulled together with twine or twine. Usually, in the fifth or sixth year, the juniper already calmly endures the winter without any additional tricks. Thuja, how to cover for the winter Thuja is one of the most popular trees used in landscape design. But all the work of planting and caring for it can go to waste if you do not prepare it for winter period. Thuja is another representative of the cypress family, which has sufficient frost resistance to survive the winter in the middle lane. But, like for other relatives, it is extremely undesirable when the tree remains uncovered in the cold. What needs to be done first is to cover the thuja for the winter from snow, which can deform the trunk and bend the top, this will lead to a loss of aesthetic appearance, which is extremely difficult to return. See also: Summer varieties of apple trees - which one to plant depending on the region. Usually, any covering material is used for these purposes. white color , spunbond, burlap, a tree cover is sewn from it, which is then “put on” from above. Or the tree is simply neatly wrapped and tied with a rope over the material to form a trunk and secure the entire structure. In this form, the thuja survives the winter. It is better to free the tree from the cover at the moment when the average temperature on the street is several degrees above zero, and the earth moves away from the cold. This will protect the thuja from sunburn and night frosts, which are typical for the spring of the middle lane. The root system of this tree is no less demanding in preparation for the winter season, since in some regions the plant may die due to freezing of the soil, due to a lack of moisture received. The best solution is a layer of grass and leaves, which is abundantly sprinkled on the area under the crown of the tree, this will provide both a temperature cushion and additional feeding of the tree in the future. How to cover a cypress for the winter Cypress is a bushy evergreen plant from the genus cypress. Usually, in the middle forest belt, it is grown in tubs or pots and removed for the winter in a room where the plant lives quietly until autumn. In the first years of life, in order to instill frost resistance in a tree and weed out cypress plants unsuitable for growing, it is necessary to plant the cypress in the ground, and fill it with spruce branches, large sawdust or loose snow for the winter. After two years of such selection, the surviving seedlings will have excellent frost resistance. If the adult cypress on the site is still planted in the ground, then in order for the tree to please in subsequent years, it is necessary to take seriously its protection and know how to properly cover the cypress for the winter. At first, it is necessary to carefully wrap the shrub, pulling it slightly with twine or twine, this must be done carefully so as not to damage the fairly tender branches of the tree. After that, it is necessary to cover the cypress for the winter with a piece of burlap or any other light-colored material, leaving ventilation holes. The root system must be insulated with sawdust, last year's foliage, mixed with grass or spruce branches. This will also protect the tree in the spring from sunburn. It is best to open the cypress tree after the snow has completely melted. Yew, shelter for the winter Yew is one of the most ancient coniferous plants that have come down to our time in its almost original form. Its habitat is basically exclusively warm countries, which means that it is extremely sensitive to temperature changes and can die from such a phenomenon as snow. If the tree is small, then it is best to sew a cover for it for the winter, after carefully forming the crown with the help of twine, close it, leaving holes for ventilation. It is extremely important that the material is light, and preferably white, because a tree in a dark wrapper can die due to the greenhouse effect and condensation. It is also better to insulate the roots of the plant by covering them with a layer of cut grass, spruce branches or sawdust. Fir, shelter for the winter Fir is a relative of pine and spruce, and some of its species, especially those who come from Siberia, are able to survive in frosts down to minus fifty degrees. Therefore, only young seedlings need protection. For protection, spruce branches are used, which cover both the rhizome of the young shoot and the crown. Then, when the first snow falls, the structure falls asleep and waits for a thaw in this state. Summing up, we can say that no matter what coniferous plant is chosen for planting on your site, you need to take care of preparing it for the upcoming winter. Especially if the seedling is one or two years old or not known at all. It is in the first three years of his life that he forms his frost-resistant qualities and adapts to the conditions in a new place. A few useful facts in conclusion Before preparing for winter, it is necessary to water your tree abundantly. This will allow him to feed for the next few months, when there will be no moisture from the outside. Do not forget that the shelter of the root system - mulching, is mandatory if we want to save our plant. Coniferous plants are evergreen, with the exception of larch, and photosynthesis in their cells does not stop. Therefore, it is necessary that sunlight penetrate to the crown even during shelter. If, despite the protective measures taken against sunburn, by the spring the needles on the plants have lost their usual color, then the branches begin to regularly sprinkle with water, and in sunny days shade the plant. Trees need to be watered warm water in small portions. When the air temperature becomes about +10 C, the crowns of the affected conifers must be treated with growth biostimulants, for example, HB 101 or Epin.

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