How to make a small electric motor at home. How to assemble the simplest electric motor at home. Features of the operation of collector motors
This video is for all novice radio amateurs experimenters who would like to make a simple mini motor from available radio parts. Highly good wayto keep your child busy and to teach him technical knowledge. Be sure that your child will demonstrate their knowledge in physics lessons at school.
Let's assemble the simplest electric motor
Let's repeat the old school experiment. What needs to be prepared for homemade products:
Battery 2a. Enameled wire with a cross section of 0.5 mm. Magnet. Two pins, stationery tape, plasticine. Tool. First, let's make a coil. We wind it from enameled wire. We make 6-7 turns around the battery. We fix the ends of the wire with knots. Now you need to properly clean the varnish on the spool. This is an important point - the performance of the engine depends on the correct execution. We completely clean one end of insulation. The other is on the one hand. This side should line up with the bottom of the coil.
We fix the pins on the battery with tape. We check the contacts with a tester. Installing the magnet. In this case, weak. Therefore, you have to raise it closer to the coil. We fix the structure on the table with plasticine. You need to position the coil correctly. When it is installed, the scraped end should touch the pin.
The principle of operation of the simplest micro motor
A magnetic field is generated in the coil. It turns out an electromagnet. The poles of the permanent magnet and the coil must be the same. That is, they have to push off. The repulsion force turns the coil. One end loses contact and the magnetic field disappears. The coil turns by inertia. Contact reappears and the cycle repeats.
If the magnets are attracted, the engine will not spin. Therefore, one of the magnets will need to be turned over.
We start the motor. We can add some practicality to this product. Attach a hypnotic coil to one end of the coil. Fascinating! You can make the famous thaumatrope with a bird in a cage.
Channel "OlO"
A more advanced homemade engine for studying electromagnetic phenomena
Video “99% DIY”. 
We need a wine stopper. First of all, make a hole in the center. We cut out small planes on both sides. Place the knitting needle in the hole. We fix it with super glue. We wind electrical tape on the knitting needle. Place two pieces of copper wire inside the plug.
Insulated thin copper wire will be needed to create a mini motor. The master used a length of 5 m and a diameter of 0.4 mm. We wind in the 1st direction on the engine rotor. Remove the insulation from the terminals of the winding. We connect the wires to the contacts. We fix the winding with super glue. We give the contacts the following form. The motor rotor is ready.
Now we will make the case. This will require a wooden base and two small bars in which we make holes. Bars and glue them to the base. Install the engine rotor.
We will make mini motor brushes from two pieces of copper wire.
Why do I need two magnets. We glue on small wooden blocks. We glue the blanks on the base, leaving a minimum gap between the magnets and the winding. The electric motor is ready. Now let's move on to testing.
As you can see in the video shot, this miniature engine has a lot of backlash and does not have much power. But this is not important for such a homemade product, it is designed to study electromagnetic phenomena that are often superficial at school, without the use of special experiments. It is impossible to study a subject without visual and practical actions, especially when the question concerns electricity. Imagination is a weak helper here.
However, as you may have noticed, you can also attach some kind of drive to the motor shaft. For example, the fan will run. When you have mastered this video tutorial, you can proceed to a more advanced motor. Use bearings to reduce friction. Then the efficiency of a self-made device will be able to compete with industrial products of this kind.
It is always interesting to observe changing phenomena, especially if you yourself participate in the creation of these phenomena. Now we will assemble the simplest (but really working) electric motor, consisting of a power source, a magnet and a small coil of wire, which we ourselves will make.
There is a secret that will cause this set of objects to become an electric motor; a secret that is both clever and amazingly simple. Here's what we need:
1.5V battery or accumulator.
Holder with contacts for the battery.
Magnet.
1 meter of wire with enamel insulation (diameter 0.8-1 mm).
0.3 meters of bare wire (diameter 0.8-1 mm).
We'll start by winding the coil, the part of the motor that will rotate. To make the coil sufficiently flat and round, we wind it on a suitable cylindrical frame, for example, on an AA size battery.
Leaving 5 cm of wires free from each end, we wind 15-20 turns on a cylindrical frame.
Do not try to wind the coil very tightly and evenly, a small degree of freedom will help the coil to better maintain its shape.
Now carefully remove the coil from the frame, trying to maintain the resulting shape.
Then wrap the loose ends of the wire around the loops several times to maintain shape, making sure that the new bonding loops are exactly opposite each other.
The coil should look like this: 
Now is the time for the secret, the feature that will make the motor work. This is a secret because it is a sophisticated and non-obvious technique and is very difficult to detect when the motor is running. Even people who know a lot about the operation of motors may be surprised at the ability of a motor to work until they discover this subtlety.
Keeping the spool upright, place one of the free ends of the spool on the edge of the table. Use a sharp knife to remove the top half of the insulation, leaving the bottom half in the enamel insulation.
Do the same for the other end of the coil, making sure that the bare ends of the wire point up at the two free ends of the coil.
What is the meaning of this technique? The coil will rest on two holders made of bare wire. These holders will be attached to different ends of the battery, so that electricity could pass from one holder through the spool to another holder. But this will only happen when the bare halves of the wire are lowered down, touching the holders.
Now you need to make a support for the coil. They are simply loops of wire that support the coil and allow it to spin. They are made from bare wire, since in addition to supporting the coil, they must deliver electric current to it.
Just wrap each piece of bare wire around a small nail and you have the part of our motor you want.
The base of our first electric motor will be the battery holder. This will be a suitable base, because for installed battery it will be heavy enough not to shake the motor.
Assemble the five pieces together as shown in the picture (without the magnet at first). Place a magnet on top of the battery and gently push the coil ... 
If done correctly, the REEL WILL START ROTATING FAST! We hope that, as in our experiment, everything will work for you the first time.
If the motor still does not start, check all electrical connections carefully. Does the reel spin freely? Is the magnet close enough (if not enough, install additional magnets or trim the wire holders)?
When the motor starts up, the only thing you need to pay attention to is not to overheat the battery, since the current is large enough. Just remove the coil and the chain will be broken.
Let's find out exactly how our simplest electric motor... When an electric current flows through the wire of any coil, the coil becomes an electromagnet. An electromagnet acts like a normal magnet. It has a north and south pole and can attract and repel other magnets.
Our coil becomes an electromagnet when the bare half of the protruding wire from the coil touches the bare holder. At this moment, a current begins to flow through the coil, a north pole appears at the coil, which is attracted to the south pole of the permanent magnet, and a south pole, which is repelled from the south pole of the permanent magnet.
We stripped the insulation off the top of the wire when the coil was vertical, so the poles of the electromagnet will point right and left. This means that the poles will move in order to be located in the same plane with the poles of the lying magnet, directed up and down. Therefore, the coil will turn towards the magnet. But at the same time, the insulated part of the coil wire will touch the holder, the current will be interrupted, and the coil will no longer be an electromagnet. It will turn further by inertia, again touches the non-insulated part of the holder and the process will be repeated again and again until the batteries run out of current.
How can you make an electric motor spin faster?
One way is to add another magnet on top.
Bring a magnet while the coil is spinning, and one of two things happens: either the motor stops, or it starts spinning faster. The choice of one of the two options will depend on which pole of the new magnet will be directed towards the coil. Just do not forget to hold the bottom magnet, otherwise the magnets will jump towards each other and destroy the fragile structure!
Another way is to plant small glass beads on the spool axis, which will reduce the friction of the coil against the holders and also better balance the motor.
There are many more ways to improve this simple design, but we have achieved the main goal - you have assembled and fully understood how the simplest electric motor works.
Let's consider some aspects of design. We will not promise to make a perpetual motion machine, similar to the creation attributed to Tesla, but the story is foreseen to be interesting. We will not bother readers with paper clips and batteries, we suggest talking about how to adapt an already finished motor for your own purposes. It is known that there are a lot of constructions, all are used, but modern literature leaves the basic foundations behind. The authors have studied the textbook of the last century, studying how to make an electric motor with their own hands. Now we offer to plunge into the knowledge that constitutes the basis of a specialist.
Why collector motors are often used in everyday life
If we take a 220V phase, the principle of operation of an electric motor on a collector allows us to manufacture devices 2-3 times less massive than when using an asynchronous design. This is important in the manufacture of appliances: hand blenders, mixers, meat grinders. Among other things, it is difficult to accelerate an asynchronous motor above 3000 rpm; there is no specified limitation for collector motors. This makes the devices the only one suitable for the implementation of designs of centrifugal juicers, not to mention vacuum cleaners, where the speed is often not lower.
The question of how to make an electric motor speed controller disappears. The problem was solved long ago by cutting off part of the cycle of the supply voltage sine wave. This is possible, because the commutator motor does not make a difference whether it is powered by a variable or direct current... In the first case, the characteristics fall, but the phenomenon is reconciled due to obvious benefits. The electric motor is of the collector type and in washing machine, and in the dishwasher. Although the speeds are very different.
Easy to do and reverse. To do this, the polarity of the voltage on one winding is changed (if you touch both, the direction of rotation will remain the same). Another problem is how to make an engine with a similar amount component parts... It is unlikely that it will be possible to make the collector yourself, but it is quite possible to rewind and select the stator. Note that the rotation speed depends on the number of rotor sections (similar to the amplitude of the supply voltage). And the stator has only a pair of poles.
Finally, using the above design, it is possible to create a universal device. The motor runs without difficulty from both AC and DC. It's just that a tap is made on the winding, when turned on from the rectified voltage, the turns are fully involved, and with a sinusoidal only part. This allows the nominal parameters to be maintained. Making a primitive electric motor of the collector type does not look like an easy task, but it will be possible to completely adapt the parameters to your own needs.
Features of the operation of collector motors
In a collector motor, there are not too many poles on the stator. More precisely, there are only two - north and south. The magnetic field, as opposed to induction motors, does not rotate here. Instead, the position of the poles on the rotor changes. This state of affairs is ensured by the fact that the brushes gradually move along the sections of the copper drum. The special winding of the coils ensures proper distribution. The poles seem to slide around the rotor, pushing it in the right direction.
To ensure the reverse mode, it is enough to change the polarity of the power supply of any winding. The rotor in this case is called the armature, and the stator is called the exciter. It is permissible to connect these circuits in parallel to each other or in series. And then the characteristics of the device will begin to change significantly. This is described by mechanical characteristics, take a look at the attached drawing to represent the approved. Graphs for two cases are conventionally shown here:
- When the exciter (stator) and the armature (rotor) of the collector motor are fed in parallel with direct current, its mechanical characteristic is almost horizontal. This means that when the load on the shaft changes, the nominal shaft speed is maintained. This is used on machine tools, where the change in speed does not have the best effect on quality. As a result, the part rotates when the cutter touches it briskly, as at the start. If the obstructing torque increases too much, a stall occurs. The engine stops. Summary: if you want to use the motor from a vacuum cleaner to create a metalworking (lathe) machine, it is proposed to connect the windings in parallel, because in household appliances another type of inclusion dominates. Moreover, the situation is understandable. If the windings are supplied in parallel with alternating current, too much inductive reactance is generated. This technique should be used with caution.
- With the sequential power supply of the rotor and stator, the collector motor has a lovely property - a large torque at the start. This quality is actively used for starting trams, trolleybuses and, probably, electric trains. The main thing is that when the load increases, the revolutions do not break down. If you run the collector motor at idle in this mode, the shaft rotation speed will increase immensely. If the power is low - tens of watts - there is no need to worry: the frictional force of bearings and brushes, an increase in induction currents and the phenomenon of magnetization reversal of the core, together, will slow down the growth at a specific value. In the case of industrial units or the aforementioned vacuum cleaner, when its engine is removed from the housing, the speed increase goes like an avalanche. The centrifugal force is so great that the loads are capable of breaking the anchor. Be careful when starting brushed motors with series excitation.
Collector motors with parallel connection of the stator and rotor windings are perfectly adjustable. By introducing a rheostat into the exciter circuit, it is possible to significantly increase the speed. And if such an anchor is attached to the branch, the rotation, on the contrary, will slow down. It is massively used in technology to achieve the desired characteristics.
The design of the collector motor and its relationship with losses
When designing brushed motors, loss information is taken into account. There are three types:
Usually, when supplying a collector motor with alternating current, a series connection of the windings is used. Otherwise, too much inductive reactance comes out.
To the above, we add that when the collector motor is supplied with alternating current, the inductive resistance of the windings comes into play. Therefore, at the same effective voltage, the speed will decrease. The stator poles and housing are protected from magnetic losses. The need for this is easy to verify by simple experience: power a low-power brushed motor from a battery. His body will remain cold. But if we now apply alternating current with the previous effective value (according to the testimony of the tester), the picture will change. The brushed motor housing will now begin to warm up.
Therefore, they even try to assemble the casing from sheets of electrical steel, riveting or gluing with the help of BF-2 and analogues. Finally, we supplement the above with the statement: sheets are typed along a cross-section. Often the stator is assembled according to the sketch shown in the figure. In this case, the coil is wound separately according to the template, then insulated and put back on, simplifying assembly. As for the techniques, it is easier to cut steel on a plasma machine and not think about the price of the event.
Easier to find (in a junkyard, in a garage) already finished form for assembly. Then wind coils of copper wire with lacquer insulation under it. The diameter is obviously larger. First, the finished coil is pulled over the first protrusion of the core, then onto the second. Press the wire so that a small air gap remains at the ends. It is believed that this is not critical. To keep it, sharp corners are cut off at the two extreme plates, the remaining heart is bent outward, squeezing the ends of the coil. This will help you assemble the engine to factory standards.
Often (especially in blenders) there is an open stator core. This does not distort the shape of the magnetic field. Since there is only one pole, you should not expect much power. The shape of the core resembles the letter P, between the legs of the letter in a magnetic field a rotor turns. Circular cuts are made under the device in the right places. Such a stator is easy to assemble yourself from an old transformer. It's easier than making an electric motor from scratch.
The core at the winding point is insulated with a steel sleeve, on the sides - with dielectric flanges cut from any suitable plastic.
Many radio amateurs are always not averse to making some kind of decorative device solely for demonstrative purposes. For this, the simplest schemes and improvised means are used, mobile mechanisms that can clearly show the effect of electric current are in great demand. As an example, we'll look at how to make a simple electric motor at home.
What is needed for the simplest electric motor?
Please note that to make a working electric machine designed to perform any useful work from shaft rotation at home is quite difficult. Therefore, we will consider simple modelshowing how an electric motor works. With it, you can demonstrate the interaction of magnetic fields in the armature winding and stator. Such a model will be useful as a visual aid for school or a pleasant and informative pastime with children.
To make the simplest home-made electric motor, you will need an ordinary finger battery, a piece of copper wire with lacquer insulation, a piece of a permanent magnet, not in size more battery, a pair of paper clips. From the tool, enough nippers or pliers, a piece of sandpaper or other abrasive tool, tape are enough.
The process of manufacturing an electric motor consists of the following stages:
A simple electric motor is ready - just push the coil with your finger and it will start a rotational movement, which will continue until you stop the motor shaft or the battery runs out.
Figure: 4: run the coil If the rotation does not occur, check the quality of the current collection and the condition of the contacts, how freely the shaft moves in the guides and the distance from the coil to the magnet. The smaller the distance from the magnet to the coil, the better the magnetic interaction, therefore, it is possible to improve the operation of the electric motor by reducing the length of the posts.
Single cylinder electric motor
If the previous version did not perform any useful work due to its design features, then this model will be a little more complicated, but it will find practical use in your home. For manufacturing, you will need a 20ml disposable syringe, copper wire for winding the coil (in this example, a diameter of 0.45mm is used), a larger diameter copper wire for the crankshaft and connecting rod (2.5 mm), permanent magnets, wooden strips for the frame and structural elements, DC power supply.
From additional tools, you will need a glue gun, a hacksaw, a stationery knife, and pliers.
The process of making an electric motor is as follows:
- Use a hacksaw or utility knife to cut the syringe to create a plastic tube.
- Wrap a thin copper wire around the plastic tube and fix its ends with glue, this will be the stator winding.
Figure: 5: wind the wire around the syringe - Remove the insulation from the thick wire with a utility knife. Cut off two pieces of wire.
- Bend these pieces of wire into the crankshaft and connecting rod for the electric motor as shown in the illustration below.
Figure: 6: bend the crankshaft and connecting rod - Slide the connecting rod ring onto the crankshaft to ensure it is firmly seated, you can put a piece of insulation under the ring.
Figure: 7: put the connecting rod on the crankshaft - From wooden dies, make two stands for the shaft, a wooden base and an eyelet for neodymium magnets.
- Glue the neodymium magnets together and glue the tab to them with a glue gun.
- Secure the second connecting rod ring in the eyelet with a copper wire cotter pin.
Figure: 8: fix the second connecting rod ring - Insert the shaft into wooden posts and put on bushings to limit movement, make them from pieces of native wire insulation.
- Glue the stator with a winding, posts with a connecting rod on a wooden base, besides wood, you can use other dielectric material.
Figure: 9: glue the struts and stator - Using self-tapping screws with a flat head, fix the terminals to wooden base... The two contacts must be long enough to touch the motor shaft, one on the curved part and the other on the straight.
Figure: 10: points of contact of the shaft - Slide the flywheel onto the shaft on one side to stabilize rotation, and on the other the impeller for the fan.
- Solder one lead of the motor winding to the knee pin and the other to a separate lead.
Figure: 11: solder the winding leads - Connect the electric motor to the battery using crocodiles.
The single-cylinder electric motor is ready for operation - just connect the power to its terminals for operation and turn the flywheel if it is in the position from which it cannot start itself.
Figure: 12: connect the power To stop the fan rotation, turn off the electric motor by removing the crocodile from at least one of the contacts.
Cork and spoke electric motor
It is also a relatively simple home-made option, for its manufacture you will need a champagne cork, copper wire insulated for winding an anchor, a knitting needle, copper wire for making contacts, electrical tape, wooden blanks, magnets, a power source. From tools you will need pliers, glue gun, small natfil, drill, stationery knife.
The process of manufacturing an electric motor will consist of the following stages:
Figure: 14: connect winding ends and leads For better contact, you can solder. The pins should be bent so that they literally lie on the spoke.
It is always interesting to observe changing phenomena, especially if you yourself participate in the creation of these phenomena. Now we will assemble the simplest (but really working) electric motor, consisting of a power source, a magnet and a small coil of wire, which we ourselves will make.
There is a secret that will make this set of items become an electric motor. A secret that's both clever and amazingly simple. Here's what we need:
1 meter of wire with enamel insulation (diameter 0.8-1 mm).
0.3 meters of bare wire (diameter 0.8-1 mm).
1.5V battery or accumulator.
Holder with contacts for the battery.
We'll start by winding the coil, the part of the motor that will rotate. To make the coil sufficiently flat and round, we wind it on a suitable cylindrical frame, for example, on an AA size battery.
Leaving 5 cm of wires free from each end, we wind 15-20 turns on a cylindrical frame.
Do not try to wind the coil very tightly and evenly, a small degree of freedom will help the coil better maintain its shape.
Now carefully remove the coil from the frame, trying to maintain the resulting shape.
Then wrap the loose ends of the wire several times around the loops to maintain shape, making sure that the new bonding loops are exactly opposite each other.
The coil should look like this:
Now is the time for the secret, the feature that will make the motor work. This is a secret because it is a sophisticated and non-obvious technique and is very difficult to detect when the motor is running. Even people who know a lot about the operation of motors may be surprised at the ability of a motor to work until they discover this subtlety.
Keeping the spool upright, place one of the free ends of the spool on the edge of the table. Use a sharp knife to remove the top half of the insulation, leaving the bottom half in the enamel insulation.
Do the same for the other end of the coil, making sure that the bare ends of the wire are pointing up at the two free ends of the coil.
What is the meaning of this technique? The coil will rest on two holders made of bare wire. These holders will be attached to different ends of the battery so that electrical current can flow from one holder through the coil to the other holder. But this will only happen when the bare halves of the wire are lowered down, touching the holders.
Now you need to make a support for the coil. They are simply loops of wire that support the coil and allow it to spin. They are made from bare wire, since in addition to supporting the coil, they must deliver electric current to it.
Just wrap each piece of bare wire around a small nail and you have the part of our motor you want.
The foundation of our first the electric motor will be a battery holder. This will be a suitable base because with the battery installed it will be heavy enough to the electric motor did not shake.
Assemble the five pieces together as shown in the picture (without the magnet at first). Place a magnet on top of the battery and gently push the coil ...
If done correctly, the REEL WILL START SPINNING FAST! We hope that, as in our experiment, everything will work for you the first time.
If the motor still does not start, check all electrical connections carefully. Does the reel spin freely? Is the magnet close enough (if not enough, install additional magnets or trim the wire holders)?
When the motor starts up, the only thing you need to pay attention to is not to overheat the battery, since the current is large enough. Just remove the coil and the chain will be broken.
