Types of drumsticks. How to choose drumsticks Drumsticks at home
Exclusive items always arouse the admiration of others and the pride of the owner. If you play a drum kit, custom-made drum kits sticks become your unique highlight.
Instruction
- Go to any music store and look at the models of drumsticks they sell. Pay attention to the labeling. The numerical designation indicates the thickness sticks, and the letter - about its purpose. If you are a beginner drummer, ask the seller for a stick marked 2B and remember its diameter and weight. Models with this marking are intended for playing in brass and symphony orchestras. They are very comfortable and popular with beginner drummers who are developing their technique and staging.
- Purchase a wooden block from the construction market. In principle, American walnut, maple or oak will do, but it’s better to buy a maple bar anyway. This wood is light and sticks from it are ideal for fast and quiet playing. When you become a superstar or a professional drumstick maker, make sticks from exotic woods such as bubinga or rosewood.
- Remember the 2B model you were looking at in the music store and cut out sticks about the same length and thickness. To do this, make the bottom sticks thickened - it will be a counterweight with an end sticks with head. Opposite thin end sticks, which is struck on the drum, is called "shoulder". The length and shape of this section affects the sound. Cut the stick so that it smoothly thins towards the head. Then her sound will be more refined.
- head sticks make pointed (Pointed or triangle-tipped). This is the most popular option and guarantees a mid-focus sound.
- Process the cut sticks sandpaper to remove roughness and protect hands from possible splinters.
- If you want to hold on tighter and tighter sticks, buy special anti-slip tapes and wrap them around the base of the sticks.
If you think that nothing but your headache will come from a children's drum, you are mistaken. You can get a lot of benefits from this craft. Even if you decided on it on the instructions of a teacher from kindergarten.
A do-it-yourself drum for a kindergarten is often offered to be done not in order to add worries to parents. Most likely, this is done for some kind of developmental activities or matinees, which in itself is a sacred thing.
Among other usefulness, there is one, not entirely serious advice, rather a joke. But as you know, in every joke there is some truth. See how else you can use a children's homemade drum, if you have already decided to do it yourself.
Look around and you'll find all sorts of used packages, tins and other things that can be turned into a beautifully beating drum. Even if you haven't stocked anything for crafts, everything can be found in the house.
Yes, and there are benefits for your family and at home in this activity (or you can find it, if you wish). There would be a desire, but there is always a reason ...
Why make a drum
For example:
- Joint creativity, as you know, brings together.
- It's a fun activity to make such a cool toy yourself.
- An excellent opportunity to develop a sense of rhythm and train coordination of movements. Try to march yourself, and beat the drum, maintaining the rhythm.
- An occasion to offer the child not just to beat with drumsticks, but to try to play a familiar song in rhythm.
- You can keep a child busy in the country with a homemade drum for a long time, which is also a plus.
- If you want to take revenge on noisy neighbors in a city apartment, a drum and a child are just what you need (just kidding, but ...).
Do not forget to buy earplugs or a pair of headphones for each family member who is not participating in the action of retribution.
The simplest do-it-yourself drums
Coffee tin
This do-it-yourself drum is the simplest craft of all that we will now offer you. Coffee tin with plastic lid that's all he needs. So that the lid does not come off every now and then, fix it on a film and, for fidelity, put it on glue.
Holes in the cover, which will be the impact surface, can not be perforated, that is, do not make holes in it. The sound will be muffled, but it will be. And our drum will not break through.
Do an experiment and see what kind of sound the sticks make. You can use Chinese chopsticks for sushi by wrapping (tightly) cotton balls around them. Well, you also have to take care of the rope with which your proud drummer will hang a new toy around his neck.
Although for the delicate neck of the child it is better to take a wide ribbon or a mother's gas scarf. Here you will have to show ingenuity: involve dad and tools or tie a cunning knot around the can.
But this must be done in such a way that the tape does not tear off the already not very firmly seated cover. Otherwise, you will not end up with tears.
Cool drum from a plastic bucket with a lid
A very simple and most successful drum made of a plastic bucket with a lid. (For revenge on the neighbors, it’s better not to come up with (again a joke ...). You can decorate or decorate it as your fantasy tells you. You need to take a bucket of the size or make several drums of different sizes to get a whole drum set. Their covers hold firmly and take care of that she will not have to fly off.
We make sticks from improvised materials, pencils, felt-tip pens, and a design like the one in the photo are suitable. Even mom's silicone brushes for greasing the pan will give an interesting sound. Let the child try the sound of whatever he wants. Don't nip the fantasies of a future celebrity in the bud.
Hanging such a drum-bucket around your neck is not just easy, but very simple. Therefore, this homemade drum is number one in a series of do-it-yourself drums in terms of ease of execution, sound volume and time costs.
Corrugated cardboard drum
You will have to sit over this drum and it is hardly suitable for an enthusiastic drummer. Something tells me it won't last long. Quicker decorative option(for show, so to speak), but has the right to life. The main thing is that it looks good and a do-it-yourself drum for kindergarten will be made. For check.
Do-it-yourself step-by-step photos of a drum from a can
Not the easiest way to make a drum with your own hands for kindergarten. But if you can find a tape that is thick enough for the hitting surface, or a tape that can withstand the tightest tension possible, your drum will be a drumming winner.
DIY souvenir drum
To decorate the premises of kindergarten groups to New Year's parties a paper drum fits perfectly. Often they are asked to do something New Year's with their own hands for New Year's decoration.
What do parents do the most? That's right, Christmas compositions with cones. Your decorative drum will stand out against the general background of New Year's crafts and educators will be sincerely grateful to you. original jewelry always in short supply.
Drum made of paper, cotton buds and gift paper with a printed or musical print
Such a paper drum will require rolls of scotch tape, or cardboard cartridges from paper towels. The size of the drum also depends on the size of the cardboard cartridge. Twine, and wire, and beads, and even the remnants of thread from knitting will come in handy.
You can make a very small paper drum and hand it to the paws of a teddy bear or doll. Put under the Christmas tree or hang on branches as Christmas decorations. It can be used in garlands or as an element of a winter composition to decorate a room.
A do-it-yourself drum for a kindergarten can be both real, performing its musical functions, and symbolic. Listen to the request of the educators and specify for what purpose they are asked to make a drum with their own hands.
Where will it be used and what quality should it be. We have provided you with options. Go ahead and be sure to involve children in the creativity. They remember such moments for the rest of their lives, in contrast to the joint viewing of regular cartoons.
Hi all. I bought nylon drumsticks out of pure curiosity about what they are and what they are eaten with. Briefly: they correspond to the size 5A, a little longer, while being heavier than oak sticks, they uncomfortably flex and spring when played. Compared to wooden sticks, drums sound much quieter and muffled, but cymbals sound even louder due to the greater weight of nylon sticks. After each hit on the cymbal, decent dents remain on the sticks. Hardly suitable for anything other than training hands on a drum pad
What are drumsticks made of? On sale there are both classic - wooden, and with nylon tips, and carbon, and hybrid, with interchangeable shoulders and heads (Ahead). But somehow I didn’t meet nylon ones, so I became curious what kind of sticks they were, how they behave.
I ordered the cheapest option that I found on aliexpress, since I didn’t notice a visual difference with the more expensive ones. For about a month, a package was traveling to me, without a track number, in a simple package, for which you don’t even need to sign at the post office. The packaging was simple, a bag and a couple of wraps of bubble wrap.
Here's what these sticks look like:
Comparison with 5A Vic Firth maple sticks. As you can see, the nylon sticks are slightly longer, although the shape of the shoulder is very close.
The head of the sticks is pointed, I would say, too pointed:
The handles of the sticks are corrugated, apparently so that they do not slip out of the hands. But for me it would be better if they were smooth, such a surface can tear the skin off your hands. If the wooden sticks are too smooth, I usually lightly sand them in the grip area with fine sandpaper, and they no longer slip. With corrugation, they obviously overdid it.
Now about the sensations when playing with these sticks, and about the sound. Sticks by weight are noticeably heavier than wooden ones, even oak ones of the same dimension 5A. The effect of “heaviness” when playing is also enhanced, since the sticks are more elastic than wooden sticks, noticeably bend when swinging and spring when struck, even perhaps stronger than bamboo ruts, such as in the review, and these are the most flexible rutes that I have met.
The sound of drum beats, compared to wooden sticks, is much quieter and muffled, apparently just because of their elasticity. But the sound of hitting the cymbals is even louder than that of wooden sticks, as I understand it, due to the greater weight of nylon ones. Therefore, when playing them, a discrepancy between the volume of drums and cymbals catches your eye, or rather, your ears, the drums are too quiet, the cymbals are too loud. That is, you can’t play quietly, like ruts, or you need to additionally jam the cymbals. Maybe these sticks are indispensable in some exotic style, where the cymbals must be much louder than the drums, but I do not know of such.
Here is a short video showing the difference in sound between wooden and nylon sticks. Unfortunately, it was done very spontaneously, without preparation, I didn't think in advance what exactly to play, so that the difference in the sound of the sticks would be the most noticeable. Therefore, the demo video turned out to be shorter than planned, but I have no opportunity to shoot a second take in the near future.
On the video, I didn’t knock, to put it mildly, not powerfully, since the installation is in a residential building, and I generally try not to play with sticks at home. If played more dynamically, the sound of the drums would be deeper and fuller, the snare drum would have less string cracking and more tom sound. But I think that the difference between the sound of wooden and nylon sticks can be understood, although the difference is less pronounced in the recording. The sound was recorded on a Zoom H4n recorder, located on a tripod near the drummer's head.
As I said, I do not see the use of these sticks in drumming, primarily because of the discrepancy between the volume of cymbals and drums. It is quite possible to get used to the elasticity of these sticks, but artificially forcing the pitch in the drums and holding back when playing the cymbals is too much. It is certainly possible, but why?
The following pictures show the dents that formed on the shoulders of the sticks after, one might say, ten seconds of playing during video recording.
Even the most low-quality wooden sticks are covered with similar dents with much more dynamic playing. And with nylon, I just gently stroked the plates, and as a result, such dents. What would happen to them after an hour of playing in a heavy style, I’m even afraid to imagine, most likely they simply won’t survive this hour. I don't want to set up such an experience, because I think to try using these sticks for training hands on the pad, they seem to me suitable for this.
To be honest, I'm a little sorry for the money spent on these sticks, since I most likely will not find any use for them. I also regret that I did not buy sticks, for example, yellow or Green colour, it would be funny. It would not change the essence, but they would be a little more beautiful.
Thank you for your attention.
I plan to buy +2 Add to favorites Liked the review +24 +36In today's post, we will go back a little to the basics of drumming and talk about, their structure, features and recommendations for choosing.
It would seem that the sticks are essentially just an insensitive extension of your hand, which transfers the energy of the swing to the plastic of the drum, but not so little depends on this wooden twig, because your overall sound, and speed, and comfort when playing.
So, let's start our educational program:
STRUCTURE OF STICKS
Komel- the balance area of the wand.
Body- the largest part of the stick, which serves as a grip and shock part when hitting a rim shot.
Shoulder- the area of the stick often used for crash cymbal strikes and "return" strikes. The alternation of strikes with the end of the stick and the shoulder on the hi-hat creates the basis for leading the rhythm.
Thinning is the shape of the shoulder. The length and thickness of the taper affects the flexibility, feel and sound of the stick. Sticks with a short, thick taper feel more rigid, provide more durability, and produce a stronger sound than sticks with a long, narrow taper, which tend to be more brittle and flexible but sound more delicate.
Neck plays the role of the transition of the stick from the shoulder to the tip and allows you to identify the point of the beginning of the tip and the end of the shoulder of the stick. Thus she serves link tip and shoulder. The shape of the neck is predetermined by the shape of the shoulder and tip.
Tips drumsticks are various shapes and sizes. The size of the head determines the intensity, volume and duration of the resulting sound.
There are so many forms of tips that sometimes it is far from an easy task to accurately group the sticks according to the type of tips. In addition to variations in shape, tips can vary in length, size, processing, and material. There are 8 main types of tips.
Style, scope - jazz, funk, fusion, blues, groove, swing, etc.
Peculiarities: It has a larger area of contact with the plastic than the round one, which spares the plastic and, as it were, “blunts” sound production errors. Produces a medium fill sound with a wider focus. Produces a less bright and accentuated cymbal sound than a round tip. Recommended for beginner drummers.
Style, scope - Perfect for studio work, playing in a symphony orchestra, as well as for playing light jazz, both with symmetrical stick grip and traditional.
Peculiarities: Focuses the sound (which is clearly visible when playing cymbals) and significantly reduces the change in sound when struck at different angles of the stick.
Suitable for bright playing and clear sound production.
The small round tip produces a highly focused sound and is especially delicate with cymbals. Sticks with a large rounded part of such a tip produce a fuller sound.
Such a tip "does not tolerate" errors in sound production and is suitable for use by drummers with a correctly set beat.
Style, scope - light rock, jazz, funk, fusion, blues, groove, etc.
Peculiarities: It has a larger area of contact with the plastic than the round one, which spares the plastic and, as it were, “blunts” sound production errors.
Produces a medium fill sound with a wider focus.
Produces a less bright and accentuated cymbal sound than a round tip.
Recommended for beginner drummers.
Style, scope - An excellent choice for drummers playing different styles– from rock and metal to jazz and pop music. Often used for styles such as: rock, rock'n'roll, hard rock smooth jazz, swing, ambient, easy listening, etc.
Peculiarities: First of all, it is designed for powerful, rhythmic and loud playing.
Due to the large area of contact with plastic, they emit a dull, muffled, open, diffused, not sharp sound.
Also suitable for soft quiet play. Produces a dull medium attack sound.
Style, scope - trash metal, gothik metal, hard metal, rock, jazz, fusion, swing, etc. with lots of down beats on the cymbals.
Peculiarities: Thanks to its rounded shape, it performs well when playing fast in the style of speed metal. This tip is recommended for teaching primary hand placement.
Great for alternating quick play up-down and slowed down using concentrated (directed) strikes on both cymbals and drums for soft, focused sound production.
Due to the “bulge” it allows you to control the sound and the area of contact with the surface of the instruments in a very wide range, depending on the angle of the stick to the surface of the instrument.
Such a tip produces a full low sound, spreads energy over a wider area (compared to a round or triangular tip), thus increasing the life of the heads. A good choice for those who play hard. Gives a rich sound when played on cymbals.
Style, scope - rock, metal, pops, marsh, etc.
Peculiarities: Suitable for loud, heavily accented playing with a powerful sound attack. Recommended for marching drums, for performances on large stages, in stadiums.
Style, scope - swing, jazz, blues, fusion, etc. Often the choice of jazz drummers. Light and fast sticks with this tip are an ideal choice for playing in an orchestra and jazz ensemble.
Peculiarities: Produces a full high-pitched sound, spreads energy over a narrower area; Produces a rich cymbal sound with a focused sound attack.
Recommended for dull-sounding accents when playing at slow and medium tempos.
It has a good rebound, designed for clear and sharp blows.
Perfect for soft, accented sound production, especially with non-traditional grip.
When gripped straight, it's ideal for dull accents on a ride cymbal with up-down strikes, such as when leading a swing rhythm with a stick head.
Also recommended for heavy speed-metal and especially for training exercises.
Style, scope - rock, metal, pops, funk, swing, jungle, blues, etc.
Peculiarities: Produces a fairly bright, powerful sound with a low attack. Shows a good degree of clarity and articulation when hitting the ride cymbal.
Good for abrupt transitions from powerful loud playing to quiet rhythmic dull pulsation.
Great for both traditional and parallel grips.
SELECTION OF STICKS
The choice of sticks depends on what kind of music (rock, jazz, metal, pops or classical) you will play. The choice of material, size, shape and tip is mostly a matter of personal preference.
- The stick should feel comfortable in your hand and be suitable for producing the sound you want to achieve. For example, 7A sticks may be good for a small venue but not at all suitable for a street drum band.
- Choose sticks that are comfortable for your hands and suit your playing style. Feel the sticks. Hold them in your hands.
- The size of the wand should match your hand, both in diameter and length (often the length of a suitable wand is determined by the distance from the inner bend of the elbow to the tip of the ring finger). If the sticks sit comfortably in the palm of your hand, then you can get exactly the sound you want from the drum.
- Try a few various models chopsticks to compare before you decide to buy something specific. Once you've gained enough drumming experience, you'll probably find a particular brand and ideal model that best suits you.
Factors to consider when choosing sticks:
Type of wood. From right choice wood will affect the sound and durability of the sticks. The texture of the tree should not be pronounced, otherwise such sticks will quickly break.
Wood structure(dense, soft); it depends on the wear of the sticks.
wood hardness- resistance of wood to change in shape (deformation), or destruction in the surface layer under force impacts. Hardwood gives a brighter tone, more attack and spread, which many people like.
Density- the ratio of the mass of wood (the amount of wood substance) to its volume. Density is the most important indicator of strength: the heavier the wood, the greater the density and strength it has.
No two trees are the same, hence the density of a tree differs from log to log and even within the log itself. This explains why some sticks feel solid and powerful while others feel hollow despite being the same brand and model.
The density of wood also depends on its moisture content.
Treatment. For finishing, there are sticks:
polished without any coverage. During the grinding process, significant irregularities are removed from the surface of the sticks with abrasive materials, usually emery. At the same time, the natural roughness of the wood texture is preserved, which contributes to a better grip between the hand and the stick, as well as the absorption of excess moisture. But at the same time, such sticks are more susceptible to destruction, unlike varnished ones.
Lacquered. Lacquer transparent coatings protect the wood from moisture and dust, give the surface a beautiful intense even sheen, and texture - contrast. Coating the sticks with varnish makes their surface more durable. Lacquered sticks look a little worse than polished ones.
Polished. The highest class of stick finishing is polishing - leveling layers of varnish previously applied to the surface and giving the wood a distinctly visible texture. When polished, the surface of the sticks becomes durable, mirror-smooth and shiny by applying the thinnest layers of polish to it - an alcohol solution of vegetable resin.
Some drummers do not like varnished and polished sticks, as they can slip out of sweaty hands when playing.
Wood moisture is the percentage of moisture in the wood.
As a rule, a freshly felled tree contains up to 50% - 60% moisture, then it dries by itself by 12 - 16%, after which the moisture content of the wood stabilizes once and for all. That is why it is extremely important, before the wood is put into processing, to subject it to artificial drying to an optimal moisture level. Usually, wood for the production of sticks is dried in the range of up to 6 - 14% moisture. On average, the entire drying process takes two weeks. But exact time aging and drying is not prescribed anywhere, and this is the secret of each manufacturer, who himself determines what degree of wood moisture he needs in order to process it on machines and get right quality sticks.
At the end of production, sticks require low humidity, as the wood “breathes”, and the amount of moisture in it will constantly change depending on the humidity of the ambient air. Thus, the sticks will shrink and swell with changes in climate and humidity, but to what extent depends on how the wood was dried before they were produced.
Poorly dried wood before processing will subsequently peel off, warp, shrink, dry out, crack, warp and deform.
Stick length. Longer sticks have more leverage and the advantage of better drum reach, but are more difficult to control. If you want more power for the same diameter, choosing a longer stick is a good choice.
Diameter. The larger diameter has more mass, which develops more sound projection and loudness.
Wand weight. Weight affects the sound, strength, and your ability to control sticks. In general, heavy sticks sound more "thick" and louder. If the sticks are lighter, then they make a "thin" and soft sound.
Heavy poles have more momentum, so their trajectories are more consistent and more forgiving, making them easier to handle for beginners. In addition, playing with heavier sticks develops the endurance of the drummer, regardless of his natural ability. So it's not a bad idea to have additional heavier sticks in your arsenal to expand your sonic capabilities. You will notice that when you switch to lighter poles, they are more difficult to control.
Evenness- an important indicator that contributes to a uniform feeling of balance of the sticks. In the initial stages of the production of sticks, the most important is the control of the drying process of the blanks. But since wood is a living “breathing” material that absorbs moisture, the shape and size of the sticks will always depend on external conditions. Therefore, two sticks will never be perfectly even.
Recoil Absorption depends on the shape of the stick and the type of wood. The more the drumstick absorbs recoil, the less stress in the hand and joints, which means it's easier to play.
The feeling of "balance" (center of gravity) and comfortable grip depends on the type of wood, its drying, the shape of the stick and the structure of the drummer's hand.
MARKING
Traditional model numbering such as 3S, 2B, 5B, 5A, and 7A was the earliest accepted drumstick numbering, with a number and a letter representing the stick's size and function. The exact specifications of each model varied slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer, especially in the points of constriction of the wand and its tip.
Digital position figuratively denotes the diameter (more precisely, the thickness) of the stick. Basically, a smaller number means a larger diameter, and a larger number means a smaller diameter. For example, stick 7A is smaller in diameter than 5A, which in turn is thinner than 2B. The only exception is 3S, which is larger in diameter than 2B, despite the number.
Letter designations"S", "B" and "A" used to indicate the scope of a particular model, but today they have almost completely lost their meaning.
"S" meant "Street". Initially, this model of sticks was intended for use on the street: for playing in marching bands or drum bands, where high power of impacts and loudness of performance are expected; accordingly, the sticks of this group have the largest size.
"B"- meant Band. Originally intended for use in brass and symphony orchestras.
Have larger size shoulders and head (for louder playing) than the "A" model. Usually used in heavy, noisy music.
They are easier to control and are recommended for beginner drummers. The Model 2B is highly recommended by drum teachers as the ideal starting stick.
"A" comes from the word "Orchestra". For reasons of the legendary drummer and creator of percussion instruments William Ludwig, instead of the letter “O”, the letter “A” was used, which, in his opinion, looked better than “O” when printed.
The "A" models were originally intended for big bands; bands playing dance music.
Typically, these sticks are thinner than the "B" models, with thinner necks and small heads, which makes it possible to produce a quiet and soft sound. Typically, sticks of this model are used in light music, such as jazz, blues, pops, etc.
The "A" models are the most popular among drummers.
"N" means Nylon and is a relatively new designation. It is added at the end of the marking (for example, "5A N") and indicates that the stick has a nylon tip.
STICKS MATERIAL
All indicators of the physical and mechanical properties of wood are determined at a moisture content of 12%.
American Walnut (Hickory)- the perfect tree for drumsticks. Durable, hard, well absorbs recoil upon impact, effectively dampens vibrations transmitted from blows to hands. It has an average weight, little prone to bending.
Density 815 kg/cu.m.,
Jank hardness - 1820
Beech European (European Beech) has a straight grained wood structure, flexible.
The hardness and density of wood is different, depending on the place where the trees grow. Beech wood is similar to oak wood in terms of its basic mechanical properties.
After drying, most wood characteristics improve, and beech becomes stronger than oak in bending, surpassing it in stiffness and shear resistance by about a quarter and even more in impact strength.
Beech quickly and strongly reacts to changes in humidity, which is why it can be called "capricious" or "sensitive".
Density from 660 to 700 kg/cu.m.
Jank hardness - 1300
Maple- the lightest and most flexible tree with a soft structure. Although maple is not as hard and durable as American walnut or oak, maple sticks are an ideal choice if you prefer a light feel and quick response. Maple sticks are considered "docile sticks" with excellent recoil absorption, are flexible and rebound, and are used primarily for quiet or fast playing to produce a light "airy" sound - especially when playing cymbals.
Maple density 620 - 675 kg/cu.m.
Jank hardness - 1450
Oak(Oak) is a very strong wood, weighs more than maple and walnut, and is much more durable. Oak sticks are the heaviest, densest, strongest and have a noticeable impact. Oak is rarely used to make sticks. Very moisture resistant tree.
Density from 675 to 970 kg/cu.m.
Jank hardness - 1360
Hornbeam(Hornbeam) has a medium density structure, good recoil absorption (average between walnut and maple), fairly high wear resistance. The weight of the wood ranges from very light to medium heavy. The flexibility of the hornbeam is somewhat worse than that of beech and oak. Sticks from it are resistant to shock loads. Like beech, it is afraid of moisture.
Density - 750 kg/cu.m.
Jank hardness - 1860
Pao Rosa(Rosewood) (Rosewood) - a very strong, hard, but rather fragile tree. Sticks made from it are preferred because of their wonderful tonal tint and feel, but they are not suitable for playing on the iron.
Density from 709 to 780 kg/cu.m.
Jank hardness - 2720
Other materials. In addition to wood, sticks are made of polyurethane, carbon fiber (Carbon) or aluminum. All these sticks are extremely durable.
Recently, steel sticks for training are also gaining popularity. In view of the large weight, they cannot be played on a drum kit, and they are only suitable for training and practicing technique. But not everyone agrees with him, adhering to the opinion: the brushes will become stronger, but will lose their flexibility. In moderation and with the right approach, they can be useful, otherwise they can only harm, so they should be dealt with with caution.
This article is devoted to a story about what they are, as well as what the marking of sticks means, and how to choose the right sticks for a particular installation. The type of drum stick you use will affect the sound, speed, and overall playing comfort.
Types of drumsticks differ in the types of heads (which, in turn, also differ in several ways), material, application and thickness. Next, we will consider each of these classifications.
Types of drumsticks by head type: shape and material of manufacture
It is customary to distinguish four main types: cylindrical, round, pointed and teardrop-shaped. The size and shape of the head determine the duration of the sound, its volume and intensity.
1) Heads in the form of a cylinder (English Barreltip) give a diffused and open sound due to the large area of contact with the surface of the drum.
2) Round heads (Balltip) level out differences in sound when struck at different angles and focus the sound, which is especially useful when playing cymbals.
3) Pointedortriangletip heads produce a medium focused sound and are probably the most popular for this reason.
4) Drop-shaped heads (Teardroptip) outwardly similar to pointed ones. Due to the convex shape, they allow you to control the sound and the area of contact with the plastic by changing the angle of the stick.
Heads can be made of wood or nylon. Nylon gives a clean and distinct sound and hardly wears. Of the minuses can be noted in their relatively high price. The wood gives a soft and warm sound; the disadvantage of wooden heads is grinding.
Types of drumsticks by material: which sticks are better - wooden or made of artificial materials?
The most popular types of wood in the manufacture of sticks are maple, oak and hickory (light walnut).
1) Maple sticks are lightweight and are good for quiet and fast playing. They break and wear out quite quickly.
2) Hickory has a higher density than maple; hickory sticks are harder and stronger. They have the ability to dampen the vibrations that are transmitted to the hands upon impact.
3) Oak sticks - the most durable of the wooden ones; they are the heaviest and densest. For the manufacture of sticks, oak is used relatively rarely.
Artificial materials for chopsticks are mainly aluminum and polyurethane. They are the most durable and often have the ability to replace individual parts.
Drumstick markings.
The sticks are marked with letters and numbers (2B, 5A, etc.), where the number indicates the thickness (moreover, the smaller the number is indicated, the thicker the stick), and the letter indicates the area of application. The most common marking scheme is given below.
- The "A" models were intended for musicians who performed big band dance music. They have relatively small heads and thin necks and allow you to extract a soft sound (suitable for blues and jazz). The "A" model is the most popular among modern drummers.
- Model "B" was originally intended for symphony and brass bands. They "sound" louder than "A", and are used in heavy music. They are also recommended for beginner drummers.
- Model "S" was intended for urban marching bands, where high impact force and loudness of performance are required. Model "S" sticks are the largest and are almost never used when playing drum kits.
- The letter "N" indicates that the stick has a nylon head. It is added at the end of the marking (eg "3B N").
As you can see, when choosing drumsticks, it is worth considering a large number of nuances. Now you know everything about the main types of drumsticks and can be guided by this knowledge. If you successfully select the sticks, then your
