A do-it-yourself wooden pistol that shoots rubber bands. A simple gun that shoots rubber bands. Scheme for the manufacture and assembly of the rubber gun

Have a nice day, Lord! In this article I will tell you and show you how I made such a wonderful weapon made of wood. I have not decided on the name, whether it is a machine gun, or a miniga, but this is not the point. His main task is to shoot rubber bands, which he copes with with a bang. This homemade product does not pose any danger to people and animals, because it is a rubber gun. I spent almost a month on its creation, sawing, assembling, and gluing this unit in the evenings. I practically did not make drawings, there were only small pencil sketches on A4 sheet. Everything was in my head and done "by eye" (may the engineers forgive me). I loaded 130 rubber bands on this machine gun, but you can charge 3 times more if you load not in one row, but in 3. Well, it's time to start showing and telling, because the article will turn out to be not small.

I will tell you the necessary materials and tools along the way.

Testing and making a rubber gun can be seen in my video:

Step 1: I decided to make a rubber gun from the butt. All parts will be made from a board 20 mm thick. I repeat, there are no drawings, everything is "by eye". After cutting out all the necessary parts, proceed to the assembly. I connected the parts with joiner's glue and self-tapping screws.

Here's what I got, it looks pretty nice :)

Step 2: Next, cut out 2 of these overlays from the board. This will be the handle. We make grooves with a chisel, as in the photo, they are needed so that the trigger is pressed and has a "move". We glue them with carpenter's glue to each other, and tighten them with a clamp.

Step 3: From the same board we cut out such a detail as in the photo. It will be the "base", since all the details will be attached to it. Next, we make a small groove for the trigger. I cut the trigger from a piece of laminate. And then we glue the previously made handle and screw in 4 screws for reliability.

Step 4: Then cut out two of these details. And glue them to the base, and also glue the butt.

Step 5: Making this bipod holder. Nuts are glued inside, and the bipods themselves will be connected with bolts.

Step 6: To make it convenient to hold our machine gun, we cut out 5 of these p-shaped parts, and glue them in place.

Step 7: Next I made 11 of these sticks. They are slightly longer than the length of the elastic band. Then from the laminate I cut out two stars like this. I glued all the sticks to the star with carpenter's glue, and it turned out such a drum. The sticks need to be made as even and "round" as possible so that they take root tightly to the asterisk. Then, having made the markup, I drilled holes for the studs, then glued them in and shortened them to the desired length - 8-10 mm.

Step 8: Cold welded one bearing on each side. Then he installed the drum in its place. The drum is mounted on two axes, the axes are two bolts that are tightly inserted into the bearings.

Step 9: Then we make just such a stand for the motor. I took the motor 12 V and installed it in its place. To hide the motor, I made such a decorative protection.

Step 10: We glue a small bearing into a cylindrical bar at one end, and on the other side we glue the cartridge that came with the motor. Then we install the cartridge on the motor shaft, and a bolt is inserted into the bearing.

Step 11: Glue on decorative items: scope, various small parts, trigger protection, etc.

Step 12: Let's start assembling the electrics. I took just such a button, and glued it with hot glue in its place, so that when pressed with a finger, the trigger would press this button. Several rubber bands return the trigger to its original position. A bar glued on top does not allow the trigger to rise up. Then we assemble a simple circuit that includes a motor, a button, a box for 18650 batteries and a step-down module. I ordered all the components from a well-known Chinese store. Since the motor is 12v, and four batteries are almost 15V, a step-down module is definitely needed, especially since they can adjust the speed of the motor, and therefore the speed of the rubber bands.

Choose a piece of wood suitable for the body of the gun (barrel and stock). It should be soft enough wood that you can cut grooves in the gun barrel. Ordinary wood is the cheapest and available material, although bamboo or other materials can also be used for the body of the gun.

• The length of the butt should be about 60 centimeters.
• Suitable wood for the body can be cut from some fairly hard branch, plank or plank.
• Perfect fit also wooden handles for tools sold in hardware stores.

Assemble the rest of the parts needed for the gun. In addition to the barrel and stock, you will need a trigger and something to attach it to the body of the gun. Thus, you will need:

• Clothespin (as a trigger)
• Pencil
• Glue (for wood, superglue, etc.)
• Rubber

Attach the clothespin to the body - this will be the trigger. The best place for clothespin is determined by the type of gun you want to make. To make the gun more powerful, you should fix the clothespin closer to the rear edge of the body. In the case of a conventional shotgun, attach a clothespin ⅔ from the front edge of the barrel. Do it like this:

• Mark the location of the future location of the clothespin with a pencil or knife.
• Glue the clothespin to the body using wood glue, super glue, or hot glue.
• Wait until the glue is completely dry.
• Note: The farther from the front edge of the barrel you place the clothespin, the tighter the elastic will stretch. If you stick the clothespin too far, it may not be able to hold the elastic and it will slip out of it.

Make a cut on the front of the trunk. Using a knife or other cutting tool (such as a small woodcarving file), cut a groove into the front end of the trunk. You will insert the rubber band into this groove.

Load your gun. Take a rubber ring and insert one end of it into the groove you cut in the front of the barrel. After that, pull the free end of the elastic back to the clothespin. Open the clothespin and:

• Pull the elastic a little more so that its end is behind the front teeth of the clothespin.
• Snap the clothespin by holding the elastic in it.

Check if the elastic band is well stretched and firmly fixed. Lightly pull the band back with your fingers to make sure the notch in the barrel is deep enough so that the band doesn't slip out of it. Then check the clothespin, making sure it is securely held in place.

• If the rubber band slips out of the groove in the barrel easily, deepen it a little.
• If the clothespin moves under the action of a stretched elastic band, secure it more securely with glue or tape.

As a child, did you like to shoot rubber bands? Well, who didn't love it? Yes, we had a difficult childhood. Because we did not have such a wonderful gun that shoots rubber bands.

Do you want to remember your youth, or maybe you want to make a cool gift for your son, brother, nephew or offspring of your friends? Then buy a Wooden gun that shoots rubber bands.

This marvel of engineering will allow you to accurately and very effectively shoot pets, friends or even colleagues in the office. In this case, the shooting will be completely safe, wherever you go. The exception is if you get into the boss, although there are options here.

The gun that shoots rubber bands will appeal to both children and adults. It is positioned as a toy for boys and men, but you know, many ladies will not refuse such a gift either. Think about it and in no case do not buy them this gun - you will be constantly under fire. Although ... it's better to buy two pistols and arrange a real war. Moreover, the cost of ammunition is simply penny. And the ammunition itself is reusable.

Characteristics

• body material: wood;
• shells: ordinary "rubber bands for money";
• size: 22.5*10.9*2.1cm;
• weight: 85 g;
• age limit: for children from 5 years.

About half a year ago, a chip flashed here, where the manufacture of a Nagant revolver from plywood was described. At my request, the author shared the drawings with me and since then I have had another hobby, designing and manufacturing weapons that shoot rubber rings - rubber guns.

View all photos in the gallery

Among my crafts there are Nagant revolver, Colt 1911, Lugger P1908, UZI, TT and Glock17.
The German Walter P.38 is my first work, which I tried to somehow document. It turns out not so good yet: at work you often forget to take photos and shoot videos on time.

And so the rubber gun P.38. The target will receive a multiply charged, semi-automatic mechanism, the shutter must move (blowback) when fired. The clip must be pulled out. Incomplete disassembly without tools into the same parts as an eccentric. Shutter lag.

We are looking for photographs and drawings of the original and start working in CAD. In my case, this is already an old Autodesk Inventor. We scale the pictures, make a 2D sketch and outline the first detail.

From 2D we "squeeze out" 3D of the required thickness. I will repeat many, many times, connect creativity, figure out the lineup, start assembling the 3D model. This is if it is very short.
My profession is not related to 3D modeling and CNC. All this is based on a hobby and came to everything by trial and error, maybe something not according to generally accepted rules.

The 3D model is specially "painted" in bright colors, so it's easier to distinguish design errors: intersections, contacts, etc.

Now we export DXF files of any part, group them into A4 size sheets, so that later we can share the drawings with those who do not have a CNC, but have a printer and a jigsaw. And patience.

We prepare a program for the CNC machine in the CAM postprocessor. We will mill with a cutter with a diameter of 1.5 mm to a depth of 4.3 mm in 2 passes.

And yes I have homemade machine CNC with a working field of 60x50cm, but that's a different story. We go to the machine, start the program, and after about an hour we hold the workpieces in our hands. A bit like a 3D puzzle.

You can start assembling. It's no more difficult than assembling Lego or plastic sets. We skin every detail without fanaticism and cut off the excess. Glue with PVA glue.

Some parts have holes for centering in place - we use them during assembly.

And here you can see the magazine latch and descent device. As long as we do not skin much so as not to lose the thickness of the details.

We collect the store, check the "compatibility" with the frame. Should not slip. We glue guides for the shutter onto the frame.

We collect the "shutter" and holders for the barrel. Let's try everything together.

Here you can see the automatic device of the rubber gun - a pair of rotor and separator assembly. The rotor is a square trifle, on the verge of which, when "loading", elastic bands are stretched, up to eight pieces. When fired, the separator deviates upward and allows the rotor to turn 45 degrees, the rubber band breaks off the rotor. When the trigger is released, the separator allows the rotor to rotate to its original state. You can shoot again.

We make a pistol barrel from a round piece of wood. This is the hardest little thing. Lathe so far only in the plans.

We collect the rest of the little things: the front sight, pads on the handles, etc. Ready for sanding.

After grinding.

We bring to mind: We finish the little things. We cover the lining on the handle with stain, and the gun itself with a special oil for furniture. So it doesn't shine much.

And here is an incomplete disassembly without tools. Those who know can compare with the original.

Assembly work - two evenings of the weekend. Designing and preparing about a week of work in the evenings.

Here's one for the weekend. Children of both sexes are satisfied with the result.
Bonus Glock and Lugger:

Links to videos on youtube:
Part 1:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VqPxWJBsGX0&t=24s
Part 2:

In the laboratory of the Secret of the Master, another sample of weapons has been built - a rubber gun. The toy compares favorably with other previously built models with its multiple charges and the presence of a shot sound.

How to make a do-it-yourself rubber gun

The finished development of the Parabellum pistol model was taken as a basis. The repetition of the pistol compared to before (see everyone who makes the rubber gun for the first time) was not very difficult, although one detail had to be redone, clarifying the drawing. The construction material is simple - trimming planed boards 15-20 mm thick, pieces of five-layer and three-layer plywood. You will also need: a piece of metal rod or nails with a diameter of 3-3.5 mm, six small screws or self-tapping screws with a countersunk head, PVA glue and a fountain pen spring. Tools for work - a jigsaw, a drill with a set of drills, a clamp, medium-grain sandpaper, a screwdriver, a metal saw or wire cutters.

Scheme for the manufacture and assembly of the rubber gun

1. Download and print the template. Link at the end of the manual. We cut out the templates of parts not along the contour and glue, focusing on the fibers of the wood (see photo), the patterns of the parts F1 (handle), F2 (barrel), F3 (emphasis), M2 (trigger) on a piece of board. We paste templates P1 (box wall), M1 (shutter) on a piece of five-layer plywood. Template P2 (overlay) is glued onto a piece of three-layer plywood. The number of sawn parts P1 and P2, two each.

Rubber gun

1. We cut out the details of the rubber gun according to the templates with a jigsaw. You have to show patience. The pistol requires precision, especially in the manufacture of moving parts of the bolt and trigger (M1 and M2). Assembly experience has shown that it is better to lengthen the trigger in the upper part by 2-3 mm. Make this mark immediately after sticking the template (see photo). When assembling and tuning, it is better to undermine the part than to redo it again. Be careful not to damage the template paper with hole marks.

We prepare two metal axles, with a board thickness of 18 mm, the axles will be 32 mm long. Axes should be straight, and the ends without burrs and irregularities.

Drilling holes should also be taken with all care. The centers of the holes must be punched with your own hands before drilling - with a core, an awl, a nail. Holes for mounting screws in the box walls (detail P1) can be drilled with a 3 mm drill and the edges for the conical head can be selected with a drill bigger size. Holes for metal axles (see drawing and photo) should be 0.1-0.2 mm larger than the diameter of the axle. That is, the axis should move in the hole, but not hang out.

Finishing the trigger Part for the axle

1. We drill a hole in the shutter of the rubber gun (M1), the diameter of the hole should be 0.1-0.2 mm less than the diameter of the axis. Drilling must be strictly vertical!

We drill a hole in the trigger (M2) along the diameter of the axis. Drilling must also be strictly vertical! If there drilling machine, that will help a lot.

We clean all the details with sandpaper, the pistol grip and the trigger hook can be given an anatomical shape, all protruding edges of the parts can also be rounded. carefully clean the places where the rubber bands of the barrel and bolt touch. Attention! The tops of the gate (M1) must not be rounded off! Do not round the top edges of the trigger! If you are going to make a masterpiece, then you should sequentially process the outer parts with sandpaper with a decrease in the grain number.

The trigger part (M2) should rotate freely in the future box, so it is necessary to reduce its thickness by 1-1.5 mm. This is done by grinding the side surface on sandpaper.

We insert the axis into the trigger of the crossbow and with light blows of the hammer we insert the axis into the bolt (M1)

We put one overlay on a flat surface and place the details of the handle and the barrel and the stop of the gun and check the operation of the mechanism (watch the video). The handle should take its position and not interfere with the operation of the shutter and be a stop for the trigger in the extreme position of the shutter release. The barrel should also be a limiter for the movement of the trigger when the shutter is released. The bolt in the cocked state should rest on the trigger pad. Understand and understand the operation of the mechanism so that the actions for further work are conscious. If necessary, sharpen the pad of the bolt support on the trigger.

With a pencil, mark the position of the handle, barrel and stop on the wall of the box. We cover the parts to be glued with PVA glue and, with the help of overlays, glue the handle of the rubber gun, the wall of the box, the barrel and the stop together at the intended places. Details are pulled together with a clamp until the glue dries completely. Make no mistake about correct location details!

Markings on the wall Bonding parts
1. After gluing, we reinsert the moving parts and check the operation of the mechanism. To return the trigger, you must install a spring. To do this, a hole is drilled in the trigger with a depth of 4-5 mm. We put the trigger with the spring in place))). If necessary, slightly shorten the spring. Tests showed that the spring from the handle constantly wants to pop out, for this a small recess was made manually on the barrel stop (see photo), which solved the problem.

We install the second wall of the crossbow cover. The shutter after installation should be located without distortions and rotate without much effort, and the trigger should freely return to its original position after being pressed. If this does not happen, eliminate the cause, it may be necessary to cut out a new wall if the holes are not made accurately. While holding the wall with your hands, check the operation of the mechanism for all four positions of the shutter. Note the position of the wall.

Fasten the second wall with screws. To avoid cracking of parts, you can drill parts with a thin drill bit 1.5-2 mm. Fire four control shots. Does the rubber gun shoot? Hooray. We install the screws on the first wall.

Stick pads to close the axes of the shutter and trigger.

Parts glued Check operation Spring hole Spring installed