Wall-mounted greenhouse with a pitched roof. Single-pitched wall greenhouse. Video "How to build a greenhouse with your own hands"

It is profitable to build greenhouses with a pitched roof for many reasons. Costs for building materials are reduced. If the frame of the greenhouse is attached to the south side of the house or other building, the occupied area will significantly decrease. In winter, less money is spent on heating, you do not need to go far when caring for plants. Some of the daylight is lost due to a blank wall, but this disadvantage can be eliminated by installing artificial lighting equipment.

One side of such buildings adjoins the wall of a brick house, garage or barn. Brick is not as susceptible to moisture damage as wood. It dries faster and does not rot if the joints and the entire surface are treated with special hydrophobic agents Siloxil or Funcosil. These preparations are environmentally friendly, water-repellent and not harmful to animals and plants.

The general view of a lean-to greenhouse resembles a one-piece construction of a free-standing greenhouse, but as if cut in two along its length. The material for the construction of the extension is selected by the gardener himself:

• wooden frames made of timber or boards:
• polyethylene pipes;
• metal corners or fittings;
• whole window frames with glazing and vents.

Covering materials are also varied:

• glass;
• cellular polycarbonate;
• PVC film;
• a combination of all named hideouts.

The type of construction depends on the selected material. The roof of wooden greenhouses from a bar and structures from old windows looks like a right-angled triangle. Its highest part adjoins the blank wall of the fence. The presence of opening vents is convenient for ventilating the greenhouse.

Polycarbonate is a relatively new modern material with positive characteristics, from which gardeners build greenhouses. The roof of a lean-to greenhouse, as the name implies, is a slope that forms a right-angled triangle in cross-section. A single-pitched greenhouse, if the owner of the site wishes, can be erected in the form of a free-standing structure, but in this case it will lose most of the advantages over a standard building.

Advantages of installing a lean-to greenhouse

A single-slope polycarbonate greenhouse, although not intended for growing a large number of plants, has proven itself well among gardeners and there are several reasons for this:

1. 1. Compactness - being an extension to a structure or a fence, it allows you to use the previously empty area of ​​the site;
2. 2. Small scale - such a greenhouse is perfect for growing seedlings, it is easier to create an optimal climate for plants in it than with a large size;
3. 3. Savings in construction and maintenance - a lean-to greenhouse adjacent to the building requires much less building materials, and in the case of an extension to the house, there is no need to carry out lighting and heating throughout the entire plot;
4. 4. Reliability - the wall of the structure protects the greenhouse from winds. Polycarbonate diffuses light well;
5. 5. Heating - the main wall will heat the greenhouse.

ABOUTa bottom-slope greenhouse for a novice summer resident is the best option for growing seedlings. For convenience and maximum use of its area, you can equip the interior space with racks for boxes and pots with plants. If you plan to grow a significant amount of vegetables, flowers, and so on, then you should give preference to the construction of another type of structure - a separate greenhouse of a larger area.

Structural planning - drawing creation, comparative analysis of materials

Planning and drawing is a necessary initial step in any construction work. It is important to choose a well-lit place on the south or east side of the site and think in detail about the following elements of the future structure:

1. 1. Foundation. The type of foundation depends on the purpose of creating the greenhouse and its future weight - it can be wood or concrete;
2. 2. Bottom frame strapping. Wooden beams laid along the perimeter of the foundation;
3. 3. Vertical and intermediate corner posts - load-bearing structural elements;
4. 4. Upper frame strapping - horizontal beams fixed on vertical posts - support for rafters;
5. 5. Rafters - load-bearing elements of the roof;
6. 6. Braces and jibs - frame elements for strengthening the structure, are installed under the rafters and between the vertical posts;
7. 7. Sheathing of the frame - for example, cellular polycarbonate for greenhouses;
8. 8. Doors and vents for ventilation.

1 and 2 - strapping, 3 - vertical posts, 4 - rafters, 5 and 6 - vents and a door.

The optimal size of a lean-to greenhouse is considered to be 3x6, while it should not be overlooked that the length and height of the structure depends on the length and height of the wall to which the greenhouse will adjoin, and cannot exceed these dimensions. The height for the outer wall is also determined and taken into account when drawing up the drawing. The slope of the roof is important here: the more snow falls in a particular region in winter, the greater the slope of the roof should be, in order to avoid sagging of the sheathing material under the weight of precipitation.

The question of choosing a material for the frame also needs to be approached in advance and with responsibility.

What type of foundation to choose - strip or timber

The first criterion for choosing the type of foundation is that for light summer structures it is enough to create a base from a bar, but if a winter greenhouse is planned, then you will need a deep foundation that can protect the soil from freezing. A concrete base is safer and more durable than a wooden base, which tends to rot over time, but is more expensive. The second point to think about is capital. It is poured only if you are sure of the correct determination of the place for the greenhouse and its use is planned for many years. It must be understood that dismantling the concrete base, if there is a desire to move the building, will be very problematic and will require a significant waste of effort and money.

Whichever type of foundation is chosen as the basis, before starting work from the adjacent territory, you need to remove all stones and debris, clean the inner space of the planned greenhouse from weeds. It will be more convenient to immediately create a place for building materials sheltered from possible precipitation.

Lumber foundation

With the help of pegs and a stretched rope, a trench is marked for the future foundation. The trench is dug in accordance with the section of the timber, the walls are leveled, the bottom is tamped and filled with sand by 40% of the total volume. The cut timber is treated with an antiseptic to avoid the appearance of mold, and is connected with corners and self-tapping screws into a single box, which is placed in a trench and leveled horizontally by placing stones or planks of the required thickness.

To create a foundation for a greenhouse, larch timber is best suited - it is especially resistant to moisture.

It is very important to securely fix the foundation from a bar. You can drill holes in the wood for this and drive metal pins through them into the ground about half a meter long.

Strip foundation

According to the same principle, markings are applied to the surface of the earth and a trench is dug, the depth of which is 60 cm and a width of about 30 cm. The bottom is covered with sand for 30% of the trench volume and compacted. Formwork is created from the boards, its height above the ground should be 10-15 cm. After that, concrete is poured and leveled. Fasteners for anchor bolts are inserted at a distance of one meter from each other so that they are further located between the vertical posts of the frame. The fresh foundation is covered with a film and moistened with water for another 4 days. The concrete will then need to gain strength, which will take a couple of weeks. After that, you can dismantle the formwork and cover the finished foundation with roofing material.

Erection and sheathing of the frame

The whole process of building a frame for a lean-to greenhouse made of wooden beams is divided into separate stages, starting from the creation of the lower strapping and ending with the sheathing. First of all, you need to prepare four beams 10x10 cm along the length and width of the greenhouse and create a bed hole around the perimeter for attaching the lower trim to the foundation. The holes are located between the locations indicated for the post mountings. To form the walls of the greenhouse, a 5x10 cm beam is harvested.In the lower ends of the corner posts, holes are created for pins with a depth of 6 to 10 cm.The posts of the future greenhouse are installed using corners or fastening plates with self-tapping screws, after which the top straps with a section of 10x10 cm are laid on them. The connections are fixed with corners with self-tapping screws. At this stage, horizontal beams are installed between the corner posts of the greenhouse walls.

For the installation of rafters, a 5x10 cm bar is cut, taking into account the slope, at the edges of which cuts are made for installation on the upper strapping. The roof of the greenhouse must necessarily have a cornice about 8-10 cm long. The rafters are laid and fixed so that there are no gaps in the grooves. A frontal board is mounted on the cornice for the reliability of fastening the cladding. In conclusion: between the vertical posts you need to install jibs, hang doors and vents on the hinges. To cover the frame, polycarbonate sheets are cut into pieces of the required size, holes for thermal washers are made on them at a distance of 3-5 cm from the edge, after which the sheets are applied to the frame and screwed onto self-tapping screws.

After the greenhouse is ready, it remains to bring communications, heating, lighting and, if necessary, automatic watering. Inside, it is most convenient to make shelves to put boxes with plants or seedlings. Having the skills to work with wood and following the instructions for building a lean-to greenhouse, you can create an excellent functional structure for growing plants in comfortable conditions with your own hands.

The greenhouse attached to the house was conceived at a very early stage of the design. The main purpose is to grow seedlings for your backyard and for the sale of surplus. This greenhouse was originally planned as a "cold" greenhouse, in winter it was planned to maintain the temperature at the level of 2-4 degrees Celsius, the main thing is that it did not fall below 0. At this time, some outdoor plants were supposed to be preserved in it, which can in severe frosts perish (boxwoods, lilac seedlings) and plants that do not need high temperature in winter (laurels, roses, tangerines grafted on a trifolium, etc.), of course, the greenhouse can be used to race tulips. Well, in spring (from the end of February) when the temperature rises, it can be used for the production of seedlings of flowers and vegetables.
To improve the lighting conditions, a stepped design was chosen, similar to the so-called Klin greenhouses of the 19th century, in which the racks from the northern part are located higher than from the southern (in the diagram on the left). Because of this, glazing was not done on the northern side of the greenhouse, since there is still no light from there in winter, and heat losses increase significantly.
To reduce heat consumption, the floor of the greenhouse is lowered below ground level by 60 cm, the walls are made of brick ¼ (from the inside) and reinforced concrete outside.
Since the well water in our area is hard and many plants cannot grow when irrigated for more than 6-10 months (myrtles, lemons), then in the greenhouse containers with a total volume of about 15 m3 are made of brick for collecting rainwater. For waterproofing, an appropriate additive has been added to the masonry mortar and the plastering mortar. In addition, the containers are treated with bitumen or acrylic mastic from the inside. Water is collected both from the greenhouse itself and from the house. In 2010, this volume was enough for the entire period without precipitation.
To prevent warm air from leaving the upper part of the greenhouse in winter, the glazing is made in two ridge, in this case, warm air does not collect in vain at the highest point of the structure and temperature drops near the floor and at the highest point do not exceed 2 degrees. For ventilation and cooling in summer, transoms are made from 6 mm cellular polycarbonate and vents on the side surface. The possibility of forced ventilation is provided - holes for fans are left in the north wall.
The right side is used as a utility room, and under the floor are stored stocks of soil, tubers, pots. The utility room itself is used for storing motor vehicles, as well as a small workshop, a backup generator is also installed there.
During the construction of the house, the boiler was installed with a power reserve sufficient to maintain, in addition to normal conditions in the house, a positive temperature in this greenhouse at -15o -18o outside. Based on this, the registers were calculated and set. The lack of heat was planned to be replenished with electricity. The number of days per year when the temperature drops below these indicators usually does not exceed 15-20. But power outages forced us to first install a cast-iron collapsible potbelly stove, instead of which this year he folded a bell-type heating stove designed for both firewood and coal. To increase the removal of heat from it, I used a household fan blowing, and for a more even heat distribution, a duct fan was installed in a horizontal plastic pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. The first frosts of this year at 26-28 degrees, the greenhouse with the addition of a new oven, the greenhouse withstood brilliantly. The presence of a large volume of water can significantly reduce daily temperature fluctuations in both summer and winter. For example, in winter, even with the onset of frosts below the calculated ones, the sufficient heat capacity of a buried greenhouse allows for 1-2 days not to start additional heating of the greenhouse, despite the high heat loss through the glass.

A lightweight yet durable single-slope greenhouse is suitable for areas where it is impossible to allocate a lot of space for building a greenhouse. Installation is carried out at the southern wall of the building, due to which the seedlings will receive the necessary amount of sunlight. From a practical point of view, the operation of a 1-pitched structure does not require a significant investment of time and effort. In order to fully enjoy the benefits of a greenhouse, you need to choose the right one.

First you need to remember that the classic lean-to greenhouse is presented in two varieties. For seasonal use, an option covered with a polycarbonate film is suitable.

If you plan to use the greenhouse all year round, then in this case the choice is made in favor of the glazed version. An important role in choosing the type of the main support is played by the dimensions of the structure.

For example, the minimalist version allows the use of the wall of a country house. In the case when the frame is more overall, an additional support stand is used. We can talk about a detached hill or an outbuilding.

In order to simplify the process of building 1-pitched greenhouses, experienced gardeners have developed some recommendations:

• The supporting wall should be as vertical as possible;
• It is necessary to cover the soil located near the supporting wall with moisture-resistant brick;
• If it was not possible to find a brick, then it is allowed to use wood;
• The supporting wall made of brick or reinforced concrete has great strength;
• If the structure is planned to be used year-round, then it is necessary to supply pipes from the country house, through which heating will flow.

The degree of efficiency of using 1-pitched greenhouses largely depends on the technically correct drawing. No serious knowledge of civil engineering is required here. The task of the summer resident is to think over where and how the lighting and heating system will be located. It will not be superfluous to pay attention to the characteristics of the retaining wall.

We mount lighting in a two-slope and one-slope greenhouse

As mentioned earlier, it is correct to place the greenhouse installation only along the southern wall. Unfortunately, but not every household plot has the sunniest place there.

As a result, it is necessary to look for a way to provide the seedlings with the minimum required amount of sunlight. All kinds of fluorescent lamps will help to get out of this situation.

Before installing them, you should carefully study the characteristics of arched and transverse mountings. It is desirable that all attachment points are supplied with at least 2-3 fasteners.

If this requirement is met, you can proceed to the installation of an artificial lighting system:

• If the sun hides behind the horizon late enough, then a directional light source can be built near the greenhouse;
• In winter, when the duration of daylight hours is insignificant, a lighting system is mounted in a small greenhouse in the northern part of the building;
• In the event that the dimensions of the building are significant, it is necessary to install an artificial lighting system at at least 4-5 points.

Regardless of the degree of deficiency of sunlight, the gardener needs to install additional luxury sources. They need from 1 to 5. For example, if the luminary is in the sky for most of the day, you can get by with a portable light source. The situation is more complicated when the lack of sunlight is noted throughout the day. A stationary light source installed with your own hands will help to solve the problem.

Varieties of gable greenhouses

An important role in the construction of a greenhouse is played by its physical parameters. Depending on the installation option, they are divided into in-depth and ground. The first option is suitable for areas where there is no groundwater close to the surface. In the event that the opposite is observed, it is necessary to make a choice in favor of the profile ground greenhouses "Mitlider".

For its construction, it will be necessary to dig a pit, the dimensions of which are directly proportional to the dimensions of the greenhouse.

The following recommendations will help you to avoid common mistakes:

• After the completion of the excavation, the installation of ground structures must be carried out;
• Due to the fact that in-depth structures are used year-round, one hundred in advance think over the technology of the heating system;
• If the winter greenhouse will have many racks for seedlings, then several supporting walls are mounted in the pit with their own hands.

At the design stage, the gardener takes into account the nature of the future building. In the case when the greenhouse is planned to be used year-round, a foundation pit must be created. Its depth and width depends on the area of ​​the building frame. It is possible to do only with a foundation when it comes to a seasonal greenhouse installed in an area with a low groundwater level.

We put windows and doors in a gable polycarbonate greenhouse

Beginners should remember that the most difficulties arise at the stage of forming the entrance group and vents. If in the case of a rectangular single-slope polycarbonate greenhouse everything is simple, then the 2-slope version requires much more time.

To begin with, a preliminary drawing is made, taking into account the need for windows. They need to be placed in such a way that the incoming light spreads evenly inside the building.

In this case, you need to remember about one, but very significant "but". The windows to be installed must not compromise the strength of the roof.

Some of the recommendations below will help you avoid problems:

• In order for the gable structure to last longer, it is necessary to think about a forced ventilation system for large areas;
• An important role in determining the location of the future window is played by the angle of inclination of each roof slope;
• In the standard configuration, the installation is carried out exactly in the middle, and if the angle is greater or less, in one of the corners;
• Gable greenhouses with identical geometry of the upper part allow the installation of no more than 2 window openings located opposite each other.

Do-it-yourself gable polycarbonate greenhouse (video)

Single-slope and 2-slope structures for a personal plot allow you to comfortably place agricultural and ornamental crops even in a limited area. Regardless of the amount of free space, installation is carried out along the retaining wall from the south side. If there is a lack of sunlight during the day, then it is better to install an artificial light source.

Examples of lean-to greenhouses (photo)

In most cases, gardeners install greenhouse structures on their personal plot as a separate building, only if there is free space. With an acute shortage of excess space, a single-slope wall greenhouse helps gardeners. The construction makes good use of the area of ​​the site.

Automatic single-pitched winter greenhouse made of polycarbonate, vegetarian type:

Description of the greenhouse with a pitched roof

There are no fundamental differences between a lean-to greenhouse and a conventional one. It is also used to grow a variety of crops. The greenhouse differs in design and location. This is a kind of extension to a living quarters, a fence, a garage, or adjoins a hill with one wall. The section of the roof resembles a right-angled triangle.

How to place a back-to-wall greenhouse?

It is optimal to install a wall structure against the southern wall of the house. Otherwise, crops will not receive the required amount of solar energy throughout the day. A greenhouse in the shade will not have time to warm up to the required temperature.

ATTENTION: It is not recommended to install a wall shelter to insufficiently strong structures. Since the creation of a certain load on the wall (non-stone and not brick) can destroy the entire building. Do not place your greenhouse next to trees and tall shrubs. Their foliage will shade the building.

Preparatory work

Before starting the construction of an extension to the premises, preparatory work should be carried out. The first step is to develop drawings of the future lean-to greenhouse. In the drawing, indicate the dimensions of the building - length and height. These two values ​​should not exceed the dimensions of the room to which the greenhouse will be attached.

REFERENCE: When calculating the height of the building, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the future cultivated plants grown in it. Tall and climbing plants need more space.

You also need to prepare the foundation. Foundation construction technology:

• Dig a trench over the entire area of ​​the future extension - depth 40-50 cm, width 25-30 cm;
• Using boards, sheets of fiberboard or chipboard, assemble the formwork;
• Place a reinforcing mesh in the trench to strengthen the structure;
• Install support pillars;
• Pour concrete mortar;
• After 5-7 days, the solution will become solid and the construction of the greenhouse can be started.

DIY wall greenhouse: assembly instructions

Installation of a back-to-wall greenhouse includes several stages:

Greenhouse example:

If not, you can make it yourself. Install two pillars, when pouring the foundation, and a crossbar. The door is equipped using leftover polycarbonate. For this purpose, pieces of polycarbonate of suitable sizes are hung on a rectangular frame, and door hinges are attached to the support posts. In a cheaper version, a canvas of dense polycarbonate is hung, the dimensions of which are 40-50 cm wider and higher than the entrance. The stock is necessary to tightly close the opening. At the end of construction work, the resulting structure is completely sealed. The presence of even small cracks will not allow the greenhouse to remain warm and during frost crops may die. A silicone-based sealant is used to seal the cracks.

ATTENTION: When planning the installation of a wall structure, you need to know that high humidity prevails inside it. This fact can have a negative impact on the condition of the wall to which the greenhouse is attached. It is recommended during the hot summer months to disassemble it to dry the walls. It is not worth disassembling the frame, you only need to remove the walls.

The wall-mounted greenhouse is easy to install. The main load is borne by a solid wall of the house, so a less durable frame is allowed. Also, the greenhouse is additionally protected from the wind, which helps to avoid cooling in windy weather.