Insulate the ceiling of the house from the outside with your hands. Warming the ceiling in a house with a cold roof - choose one of the methods. How to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof

The ceiling is the area in the room that is responsible for keeping warm. After all, heat rises up, and if the ceiling is deficient and there are no obstacles in its path, then it slips out. Insulation of the attic is possible, and now we will consider how to insulate the ceiling from the attic side in various ways.

The need for insulation

Insulation of the attic in the private sector will be required in the following cases:

1. The house is being prepared for construction and the ceiling consists only of beams.
2. A residential building, but the ceiling needs to be insulated, as it lets the cold into the premises.
3. In the attic, the temperature is much lower than in the living room, and so that the heat of the unheated room does not go outside, it is insulated.

Types of heaters

When insulating the ceiling, the following materials are used:

• Sawdust.
• Expanded clay.
• Clay.
• Reed.
• Seaweed.
• Ecowool.
• Penoplex.
• Minvata.
• Polyurethane foam (foam).

Let's consider each material separately.

Ceiling insulation methods

What are the principles of attic insulation? It's not a secret for anyone that the best insulation is air. Current thermal insulation materials contain air, which is differently enclosed in a form.

Since the experience of the last century, the air that was trapped in the attic has been an excellent insulating “material” as it changes with the seasons or weather conditions.

The floor of the attic was insulated with a natural loose substance. And all this helped to keep the temperature inside the heated room up to + 25 ° С. On the positive side, these materials do not get wet in the attic thanks to regular ventilation.

Sawdust

Coat the cracks in the wood floor with watery clay, pour sand on top, but if the clay cracks in some place, then sand gets into the depression and the integrity of the coating will not change. Further, the main layer is sawdust (the thickness can be either 15–20 cm or 25–30 cm). Sawdust is a combustible material, in order to protect it from fire, a layer of waste slag is poured on top. Boards are laid on top of the slag, for the convenience of walking on the floor.

To protect the sawdust from pests (mice), cover with a layer of slaked lime mixed with carbonite.

The floor must be protected from excess moisture. To do this, lay a waterproofing film on the wood floor with the possibility of passing steam from the edge of the living room or cover the floor with clay, mix sawdust and cement (10: 1, where 10 parts of sawdust, 1 part of cement) and then add 1.5 parts of water ... Pour the resulting mixture onto the attic floor or between the floor beams of the subfloor. It is better to implement this work in the spring, so that in the summer the cement and sawdust dry out thoroughly. After drying, the sawdust does not crumble, but crunches a little underfoot.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is a heavy substance, they insulate ceilings made of concrete floors, because there is a possibility that the wood ceiling may collapse under the weight of this insulation.

Insulation of the ceiling from the attic begins with a vapor barrier film. It is necessary to cover it with an overlap, and glue the joints with tape. The overlap on the walls will be up to 50 cm. Wooden rafters and chimney are pasted over with the same film.

The next stage is the mixed clay is placed. Further, on top - expanded clay.

In order for the thermal insulation material to be durable, you need to take small and large expanded clay (the fine fraction will perfectly fill the voids, then the backfill will become homogeneous). In cold climates, expanded clay should be laid in a layer of at least 500 mm.

On top of the expanded clay, a sand-cement screed is laid in a layer of 50 mm. The solution is quite thick. After drying, such an attic is used as a boiler room. It is fireproof and environmentally friendly.

Clay

Clay in its pure form is not used as a heater, because for the effective operation of thermal insulation, such a layer must be at least 50 cm. For this reason, clay is mixed with straw or sawdust.

Initially, a vapor barrier film is laid on the floor, impermeable to moisture (at that time, a sawdust-clay solution is being prepared). Then add 5 buckets of clay to a barrel with a large capacity (1 bucket about 10 liters).

Clay, being in water, should almost completely dissolve. Pour part of the mixture into the concrete mixer little by little and throw sawdust. When mixing all the consistency, add water little by little.

The solution should be neither thick nor liquid. It must be applied to the ceiling with a layer of 20 cm. The entire surface is leveled and left to dry completely (if cracks appear, they are again coated with clay).

Reed

Warming the attic in a wooden house with reed mats can be a good option. Such mats are tied together with wire or twine and are laid on top of the floors. It is better if they are laid in two layers, thus, the cold will not be passed into the premises of the house.

Seaweed

Algae is a natural insulation material. They can be purchased in the coastal regions at affordable prices by ordering home delivery. Rodents will not start in seaweed, they are anti-allergenic, do not burn or smoke.

Due to the fact that the alga is not afraid of moisture, it is not vaporized. Ladders are laid on the floor from it, in a layer of 20 cm, and boards are equipped on top.

Ecowool

Cellulose wool (ecowool) is a wonderful natural substance that provides heat retention. Fireproof due to boric acid treatment. It perfectly absorbs moisture, for this reason, you should not lay a vapor barrier film. Cellulose wool is laid on both wooden and concrete floors.

Ecowool is blown into the slots using a blow molding machine. The layer, in such insulation, comes out saturated and whole, with an airy "prisoner" inside.

A 25 cm layer of ecowool is enough, but in most cases the thermal insulation layer of the attic floor is 40–50 cm. When applying ecowool, at the end of the work, you can spray water to increase the process of forming a solid layer.

Penoplex

Penoplex is expanded polystyrene with excellent strength properties. It is used to insulate a concrete floor before the concrete floor is poured. Such material is not used for wooden floors, because it will not "breathe", as a result of which fungi and mold will appear on the tree.

Before laying, the attic floor is leveled, after which a vapor barrier material is laid. Next, the plates are laid out with a breakdown, and the surface is fixed with dowels with a cap. Fill the joints with polyurethane foam, and when it dries, fill it with a sand-cement screed in a layer of 5 cm.

Minvata

The most demanded insulation material is mineral wool. It is available in rolls and hard slabs.

A vapor barrier material is laid between the wooden beams (since the mineral wool is incompatible with moisture). The film is spread overlapping, gluing the joints with tape.

On the side of the walls, an allowance of 150–250 mm is made. After that, rolls of cotton wool 200–250 mm thick are placed. Rolls should enter the space with little effort, cut with 20 mm stocks (more than the distance of the beams). Then the mineral wool is covered with wooden boards (with a gap of 3 mm between the board and the wool).

If there is a concrete floor, then the concrete floors are leveled, followed by a vapor barrier film, and tiled mineral wool is laid on top of it. Then the flooring is equipped with wood, plywood or other materials.

You should not make a screed on mineral wool, since concrete has a weak vapor permeability, because of this, the main rules of thermal insulation will be violated.

Polyurethane foam (foam)

Polyurethane foam is a non-combustible insulation material, neutral for insects and microorganisms, has good soundproofing and waterproofing properties, perfectly tolerates temperature changes, with the absence of cold bridges.

The material is sprayed under high pressure. So, it gets into all the cracks, enveloping all the protruding elements. The layer of such material is 100–120 mm.

The process of insulating an attic in a private house is not complicated, the main thing is to figure out what kind of material for insulation is most acceptable in your case.

Video

You can learn more about how to insulate the ceiling from the attic side by watching the video:

Schemes

The schemes we offer will help you insulate the ceiling with high quality:

Www.stroitelstvosovety.ru

How and what is better to insulate the ceiling in a private house

To keep heat in the room, it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation measures. 15% of all heat loss occurs through the ceiling. Before you carry out the insulation of your ceiling in a private house with your own hands, you need to choose the material correctly and familiarize yourself with the technology for performing the work. Activities can be performed in several ways, it all depends on the type of insulated ceiling.

Work methods

Ceiling insulation technology assumes the existence of only two installation options:

• outside the room;
• from inside the room.

When choosing between them, several factors are taken into account. The article deals with holding events in a private house, it is worth remembering that the insulation in the apartment is carried out according to the same principle, but the work can only be done from below, since the insulation from above affects the upper apartment or attic - the common area of \u200b\u200bthe house.

Ceiling insulation scheme outside

Most often, in apartment buildings, insulation is required to increase the sound insulation of interfloor ceilings or the thermal insulation of the ceiling of the last floor.

In a private house, the choice of method is limited only by the decision of the owner of the house. Carrying out measures for interfloor ceilings (as sound insulation) is not required; thermal protection of the ceiling of the last floor is carried out in the presence of an unheated attic. It should be noted that thermal insulation of the ceiling from the outside, from the cold air side, is a smart option. This has the following advantages:

Step-by-step process of ceiling insulation with mineral wool

• in addition to the room, the ceiling structure is insulated, which increases its service life;
• insulation of the ceiling from the attic side does not reduce the height of the upper floor room;
• carrying out work does not require serious efforts (when fixing the insulation from below, you must constantly keep your head up and use a ladder or other means of providing access);
• with different methods of thermal insulation measures, the location of the dew point (the point of condensation) changes, when warming from the side of warm air, it falls into the thickness of the overlap pie, which can cause problems in the future;
• the method does not affect the interior decoration of the premises, if in the future it is necessary to replace the insulation, the work can be carried out quickly and without additional financial costs.

If necessary, the ceiling can be insulated from the inside.

Insulation from the attic side

Heat protection from the cold air side is best done with materials that have high density and rigidity. The attic is a space in which it is necessary to provide access to the passage of a person. If a compressible fragile material is placed over an attic floor, it can crumple, deform or collapse and cease to function. When choosing a heater for this method, strength is as important as thermal conductivity.

Ceiling insulation scheme in the attic

Before insulating the ceiling in a private house, you need to familiarize yourself with the work procedure:

1. The attic space is cleaned of debris and dirt. The insulation should be placed on a clean and level surface.
2. The space is measured, the required amount of heat-insulating material is calculated.
3. Depending on the selected material, a vapor barrier layer is provided. It must be laid on the warm air side relative to the heat insulator. Not all materials need vapor barrier, if the insulation is moisture resistant and has a low moisture absorption coefficient, additional measures are not required.
4. Laying is done in two ways, the choice between which depends on the strength of the purchased material. If heat protection is carried out with a high-strength insulation, you can lay it under a cement-sand screed. To increase the reliability of the structure, the screed is taken with a thickness of at least 2 cm and is additionally reinforced with wire reinforcement with a diameter of 3-4 mm. If the strength of the heat insulator is not high enough, installation is performed between the joists. The presence of a wooden frame allows you to relieve the load on the floor of the room from the insulation and transfer it through the bars to the ceiling.
5. After installing the insulating layer, waterproofing is provided. It will prevent the outside of the insulation from getting wet. Water in the attic can appear when the roof leaks or spills; waterproofing in case of unforeseen situations protects the thermal insulation layer from loss of performance. The simplest material for waterproofing is plastic wrap.
6. The next stage is the installation of the floor pie.

Insulation from the inside

Before insulating the ceiling, choose a fairly light material. In contrast to the installation of thermal protection from the outside, the insulation of the ceiling from the inside does not require the use of durable heat insulators. In this case, they try to choose the insulation that will securely hold on a horizontal surface. The smaller all the layers, the easier it is to mount.

An example of correct and incorrect laying of insulation

To understand how to properly insulate the ceiling in this case, you need to familiarize yourself with the work procedure:

1. As with the previous method, first, the surface is cleaned of dirt and dust. The required amount of material is calculated.
2. Further, the installation of a wooden or metal frame is required. If, when installing from the outside, it can be laid without additional bars or boards, then when installing from below, it is better to ensure reliable fastening. The ceiling structure is further attached to the frame. As elements of the frame, wooden boards or bars or an aluminum ceiling profile are used.
3. Insulation is laid between the guides. Fastening can be glued to the ceiling or by means of fasteners to the frame. Both of these options are often used together.
4. The final stage is the installation of the ceiling.

Insulation materials

The choice of a thermal insulation layer depends on the method of insulation and the financial capabilities of the owner of the house. To answer the question, the better to insulate the ceiling, you need to distribute the materials that can be used for each case.

For the method from above, use:

• hard mineral wool slabs (for more details see the article "Insulating your ceiling in a private house with mineral wool");
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• polystyrene of high strength grades, laid between logs or under a reinforced screed;
• polyurethane foam (only between lags);
• sawdust;
• expanded clay.

The last two options are suitable for those who care about the environmental component of construction. Expanded clay and sawdust are an inexpensive and natural option for thermal insulation.

When insulating the ceiling from the side of the room, you can use:

• styrofoam;
• mineral wool in mats;
• polyurethane foam.

These materials are lightweight and can be fixed without problems. Before properly insulating the ceiling, you need to prepare.

Study the advantages and disadvantages of each material and make the right choice. A careful approach will allow you to carry out insulation for many years.

domzastroika.ru

We insulate the ceiling in a house with a cold roof

Ceiling insulation in a house with a cold roof

Builders often ask for a lot of money for roof insulation work. This is motivated by the fact that these are labor-intensive works that are carried out on weight. To save money, you can do the insulation of the mansard roof of a wooden house yourself. No special qualifications are needed here, no special equipment is required. And it doesn't matter that your roof is made of ondulin, metal tiles or slate, gable or broken structure. However, modern insulating materials and proven technology of cold roof insulation have many nuances that you need to know.

It is not difficult to make the roof warm, and the premises of a private wooden house suitable for year-round living. The main thing is to create good conditions for keeping warm inside the attic. How to insulate the roof, what materials to use, we will consider in this article. Warming issues can be solved both during the construction of the house and after, by reconstructing the upper floor.

Cold roof features

In accordance with the laws of physics and convection processes, warm air masses rise upward. If there is a cold roof of a wooden house, all the heat will go outside. Such heat loss is forced to additionally heat the premises in the house, consuming electricity or fuel. Therefore, high-quality insulation of ceiling ceilings is the most important task for preserving heat, rational use of heat carriers and creating a microclimate in the house.

Insulation of the attic roof

Cold is called a gable or sloped roof structure that does not have a multi-layer structure. In such inexpensive and simple roofs, there is no waterproofing, vapor barrier and thermal insulation.

Cold roof insulation

The design scheme of a gable cold roof is very simple - as a rule, a floor of planks is laid on the beams of a wooden floor, and the roof is made of slate or metal, without any insulators. To properly insulate a cold roof, you need to know what requirements are imposed on the structure of the ceiling of the upper floor and attic floors. And also you should choose the right insulation material.

Diagram of rafters of a gable roof

Requirements for roof slabs

When starting to insulate a roof made of ondulin, slate or metal, broken or hip, you should know what building codes and rules exist for the floors of a private wooden house. In order not to violate the basic parameters that the attic design must meet, the thermal insulation of the ceiling and the insulation of the attic roof from the inside should be carried out taking into account the basic requirements. For attic floors and ceilings, this is strength and compliance with fire regulations.

Roofing cake

The strength of the attic floors must match the nature of the roof space. If an attic is arranged in the attic, then the floors must withstand the weight of the floors, furniture and people in it. Floor beams must not bend, and the permissible load cannot exceed 100 kg per square meter.

Load on the gable roof truss system

The second main requirement is that fire safety is especially important for a wooden house. All structural elements must be treated with special fire retardants.

Gable roof rafter system

Types of heat-insulating materials

In order to qualitatively insulate the structure of the wooden ceiling and the entire roof made of metal tiles, a variety of heat insulators are used.

Types of heaters

Main types:

• foam and foam;
• mineral wool;
• ecowool;
• glass wool;
• foamed polyurethane;

Each of the listed heaters have their own pros and cons. The choice of insulation for the ceiling and for metal tiles depends on a variety of factors. Therefore, you should familiarize yourself in more detail with each type of heat insulators in order to understand the best way to insulate the ceiling ceilings and the entire upper floor.

Insulation of a mansard roof made of metal tiles

Budget insulation options

In addition to the listed thermal insulation materials, there are inexpensive bulk insulation materials. Such materials are also used to insulate the attic roof. Bulk heat insulators include:

• sawdust and shavings;
• expanded clay;
• slag;
• ecowool.

To prevent a crumb of insulation from spilling through the cracks in the wooden floor, you can lay a plastic wrap.

Thermal insulation with ecowool

But remember that there will be no vapor barrier, since polyethylene does not allow moisture to pass through, which can condense in the upper floor room. Backfill insulation requires calculations of the strength of the floors. It is necessary to make sure that the beams can withstand the considerable weight of the bulk insulator, as well as slate or metal tiles.

Insulation of the ceiling outside with expanded clay

Another economical option for ceiling insulation is the installation of corrugated cardboard. Sheets of material are attached with self-tapping screws or construction brackets to the attic floor. Joints and seams are sealed with polyurethane foam. The electrical wiring is retracted into corrugated channels, protecting the wooden structures from fire.

Roof insulation with corrugated cardboard

General scheme of ceiling insulation

Roof and ceiling structures are the most vulnerable to heat loss in a home. They account for 15 to 40 percent of the total heat transfer at home, regardless of the roofing material - metal or slate. In addition, to create a comfortable climate in the house, a vapor barrier must be made to protect the insulation from fumes, and the ceiling and attic floor must be waterproofed.

Scheme of vapor barrier, waterproofing and roof insulation

It is recommended to carry out thermal insulation of a wooden house in a comprehensive manner, arranging thermal insulation of the roof from the inside and the ceiling at the same time. This will save the insulation material, since two ten-centimeter layers of heat insulator with an air gap in the attic space replace a layer of the same insulation 25-30 cm thick. Thus, about forty percent of thermal insulation is saved. External insulation of the ceiling with simultaneous thermal insulation of the roof from the attic side will give a good effect and will avoid dampness of the lower rooms. Such thermal insulation can be carried out without disassembling the metal roof and the ceiling of the upper floor.

Reflective roof insulation

Features of ceiling insulation

They consist in the fact that when installing thermal insulation, it is not possible to organize the drainage of condensate, which is formed due to the temperature difference between the attic and lower rooms. In addition, depending on the season, the warm and cold sides change. Therefore, when installing thermal insulation for a wooden ceiling, it is necessary to provide for the complete absence of condensation on the insulation.

Ceiling insulation scheme in a wooden house

Condensation can be prevented by laying a special vapor barrier - a film material that allows moisture to pass through to one side.

It should be laid in such a way that there is a gap between the insulating material and the film.

It should be noted that when insulating a ceiling, the correct use of the release film is of great importance. Below we will consider their varieties.

Ceiling insulation

Membranes and release films

Modern technologies allow the use of more and more diverse materials that allow the passage or repulsion of water, steam and other substances. Over the years, the proven glassine, roofing felt and tar used on slate or metal roofs fade into the background and are rarely used. Technological insulating films of the membrane type are much lighter, more convenient to use and, what is important, more purposefully and efficiently perform their function. In addition, they are reliable, strong and durable, and their thickness is much thinner. The correct scheme of their application is important.

Super diffusion membrane for pitched roofs

Enlarged insulating materials can be divided into two groups.

1) Vapor barrier. For this purpose, so-called vapor barriers are used - thin-layer materials that do not allow evaporation. In turn, they can be:

• film;
• foil;
• foiled with a capillary substrate (foil-insol).

The vapor barrier protects the roofing insulation

2) Waterproofing. It is carried out with materials that are impervious to moisture and any liquids, called membranes. Are divided into:

• simple film with one layer;
• micro-perforated with steam penetration in both directions;
• super diffusion, with vapor permeability in one direction.

Roof waterproofing

Vapor barrier is best arranged using polypropylene film materials, the thickness of which is from 55 microns. Polyethylene films are poorly suited for protection from fumes, since they allow air to pass through regardless of thickness, due to their structural features.

The PVC film is sensitive to temperature extremes and changes in humidity, it can play its role poorly over time, and even crack.

For a foil-clad vapor barrier, polyethylene can be the base as the foil prevents vapor penetration.

Fastening a foil vapor barrier

Waterproofing can be done with the simplest plastic wrap.

But polyethylene is suitable only in heated houses with slate or metal roofing.

When insulating the ceiling of a cold roof, a film with microperforation and a three-layer reinforced coating is needed. The reinforcement layer will prevent sagging of the film and will provide a ventilation gap.

Cold roof ceiling insulation

Thus, having studied the properties of insulating materials and the features of their use, we can come to the conclusion that waterproofing and thermal insulation of the cold ceiling of a house on our own is a completely feasible task.

Correct insulation of the attic and attic ceiling

lestnitsygid.ru

How to insulate the ceiling and attic floor

• The better to insulate the ceiling
• Insulation of concrete floors
• Conclusion

In a heated private house, a large amount of heat will escape through the roof, if no measures are taken and the ceiling of the upper floor is not properly insulated. The physics of the process is known: heated and lighter air is forced out into the upper zone of the room, bordering the cold attic, where it gives off heat to the non-insulated ceiling. To prevent this from happening, an obstacle in the form of a layer of thermal insulation must be arranged in the path of the heat flow. In this material, we will just talk about how to properly insulate the ceiling or attic floor with your own hands and the best way to insulate this horizontal structure.

The better to insulate the ceiling

When choosing insulation for a ceiling located under a cold roof, regulatory fire requirements should be taken into account. The fact is that for all types of floors, these requirements are quite stringent, which makes it impossible to use combustible materials for thermal insulation. In short and in simple words, the insulation layer should not reduce the standard fire resistance of the structure. That is, the ceilings under the cold attic, hemmed to wooden beams, as well as interfloor wooden floors and the same ceilings above the basement, cannot be insulated with flammable materials.

For reference. Wooden floor beams and other supporting structures, in accordance with the requirements of regulatory documents, must be impregnated with a special fire-fighting compound, and the gaps between them must be filled with non-combustible materials.

Accordingly, the answer to the frequently asked question, whether it is possible to insulate the ceiling with foam from the inside along wooden beams, is quite clear - it is impossible. This also applies to the use of extruded polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene. It turns out that the list of heaters suitable for thermal insulation of wooden structures is rather limited:

• non-combustible basalt (stone) wool, sold in slabs and rolls;
• bulk fire-resistant insulation - expanded clay, perlite;
• the traditional folk material is sawdust mixed with clay.

Note. The sprayed polyurethane foam coating also resists fire well. But the resistance time is limited, with prolonged exposure, the insulation changes its structure and collapses.

Mineral wool made on the basis of fiberglass is not suitable, as it can withstand temperatures no higher than 200 ° C. The same applies to actively advertised ecowool. Although it does not burn, ecowool cannot serve as both ceiling insulation and a fire barrier. Judging by the degree of popularity among homeowners, the best insulation option in this case is basalt mineral wool. The other listed materials have too high thermal conductivity in comparison with it.

Of course, you can violate fire safety requirements and insulate your private house with anything you want, there are no penalties for this. But it should be remembered that as a result of such actions, the danger of a rapid collapse of floors in a fire increases, which leads to very negative consequences.

Another thing is the insulation of concrete floors, which in themselves have a high degree of fire resistance. It is possible to use any polymer insulation materials - polystyrene, expanded polystyrene and polystyrene foam. At the same time, it is strongly recommended to insulate the ceiling not from the inside, but from the outside, such a solution will be the most correct in all respects.

Thermal insulation of wooden floors

As a rule, the ceiling under a cold roof is insulated from the attic side. To do this, the first step is to hem the ceilings from below, so that the mineral wool or expanded clay can be easily laid between the beams. The filing will serve as a support for him, which means that it must be designed for the appropriate load. This is especially true of expanded clay or clay with sawdust, whose weight is quite significant.

The second important stage is the laying of a vapor barrier layer. It is well known that mineral wool absorbs moisture well, therefore, self-made insulation of the attic floor should include a protective film layer and an air gap for ventilation. Due to this, water vapor from the living quarters will not get inside the insulation, and those that condense on the vapor barrier will erode through the air gap. The general layout of the thermal insulation layer on the ceiling under the roof is shown in the figure:

The canvases of the film should be laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm, after which the joint is carefully glued with construction tape. The organization of the airway is carried out by means of an internal lathing made of bars up to 50 mm wide, to which the ceiling finish is nailed. From the side of the roof, the insulation is covered with a diffusion membrane, which protects from wind and water drops, but allows steam to pass through.

Council. The vapor barrier can be equipped with thin foil-clad insulation - isolon or penofol. Then the canvases are laid end-to-end, and the seams are sealed with special aluminum tape.

The moisture that forms in the thickness of the material due to the appearance of the dew point will be removed by ventilation from the attic side, due to which the thermal insulation will work correctly and durably. It should be noted that often the height of the beams is not enough to lay the insulation between them of the calculated thickness. That is why below in the diagram with false ceilings the laying of mineral wool is shown in 2 layers: one between the beams, the other on top of them. Expanded clay is simply poured into the openings on top of the vapor barrier.

Note. In the same way, the attic ceiling is insulated, that is, its horizontal part. The composition of the insulating "pie" is the same as for the overlap, the thickness of the insulation is the same as on the walls of the attic.

Installation of ceiling insulation can be done in the reverse order - from below, from the side of the room. There is not much difference, only the work is not so convenient to perform, and even the vapor barrier must be done with the release of 15-20 cm on the walls, otherwise moisture can penetrate along the edges of the "pie". This is especially true for wet rooms such as a bathroom. More on this topic is described in the video:

As for the insulation of interfloor wooden floors, it often does not make sense to perform it. It appears only when you plan to isolate the second floor from the first and heat them separately in order to save money.

In such a situation, the insulation between the floors will have to be protected from vapors on both sides, as shown in the diagram:

Insulation of concrete floors

It is best to insulate the concrete ceiling of the upper floor from the outside, but it is convenient to do this during construction. After all, a roof covering must be laid over the insulation to protect the house from precipitation. The sequence of work is as follows:

• cleaning and leveling the concrete surface;
• organization of inclined surfaces for water drainage using a monolithic screed;
• waterproofing lining with a release along the edges;
• laying insulation in 1 or 2 layers;
• device of a cement-sand screed up to 5 cm thick;
• spreading and sealing of roofing.

The "cake" of correct insulation of the concrete ceiling from the outside is shown in the diagram:

If the roof covering is already available, then it is impractical to open it to organize thermal insulation; instead, you can insulate the floor from the inside. The easiest way for this purpose is to take expanded polystyrene or expanded polystyrene, which does not have to be protected from moisture. Material slabs are attached to the concrete surface in 2 ways:

• first, wooden logs are installed, insulation is inserted between them, and the gaps are sealed with foam;
• penoplex plates are attached directly to the floor by means of umbrella-shaped dowels.

Council. When installing a lag or fixing polystyrene foam, be careful while drilling holes so that the dowel does not then fall into the void.

When there are lags, it is convenient to mount any topcoat. At the same time, the installation of insulation on dowels is practiced when installing stretch ceilings. When mineral wool is used as an insulator, the organization of a vapor barrier and an air gap is required, therefore, here you cannot do without a lag and counter-lattice.

The concrete ceiling above the unheated basement also needs insulation, since in this situation a lot of heat will go through the floors of the first floor. There are 2 options here: insulate the basement ceiling or the floors on the first floor.

The choice often falls on the second option, since it is more convenient to insulate the floors of the first floor. There are also two methods of thermal insulation: on the logs and under the screed, both of them are reflected in the diagrams:

Conclusion

The issue of insulation of ceilings and attic floors is not easy and requires a thorough approach. Particular attention should be paid to the installation of waterproofing and vapor barrier, since the service life of the insulation depends on the tightness of these layers. Also, do not save on its thickness, otherwise you will spend a lot of time and effort, and the result will remain far from what was expected.

Compared to city apartments in multi-storey buildings, private houses have a large area of \u200b\u200bcontact with the external environment, so the issue of high-quality thermal insulation is much more relevant here. About 35% of the heat is released into the ambient air through an uninsulated ceiling, unless the roof and attic are insulated with a thermal barrier. To waste so much thermal energy is an unaffordable luxury, so we will consider the best options for thermal insulation of ceiling ceilings.

Insulation from the inside or from the attic - which is preferable?

Modern building technologies provide for the device of thermal insulation layers simultaneously with the construction of the building. In this case, the most convenient and effective schemes for installing insulation are selected at the design stage, taking into account the type of overlap, the total load on building structures, the need for heat conservation in a given climatic zone. Ideally, this happens if a new house is being built in compliance with building requirements and rules.

If a private building was erected a long time ago, or recently, but on our own, it is quite possible that there may not be high-quality thermal insulation, including ceiling ceilings, in the house. In such a situation, homeowners have to independently solve the problem of insulation, choosing methods that correspond to the needs for saving heat, the peculiarities of the building in general and the type of floors in particular. The first question that arises on the way to solving the indicated problem is the side of the ceiling slabs, with which it is more convenient and expedient to arrange a thermal insulation barrier.

You can insulate the floors on each side, and in any case it will be correct. But when choosing a method of insulation, some nuances must be taken into account. The first is the height of the ceiling slabs. If the ceilings are low, and there is no desire to further conceal the useful space, insulation from the attic side definitely suggests itself, because a layer of insulation (at least 5-6 cm) plus finishing (2-3 cm) will make the ceilings even lower. Another situation is that the rooms have already been finished, the interior has been decorated, and it suits the households quite well. Insulating the ceiling from the inside will lead to the need to make repairs again, which is impractical in all respects. Here, it is also preferable to lay the thermal insulation barrier from above along the ceilings.

It makes sense to insulate the ceilings from the inside only in a situation when major repairs are being carried out in the house. In this case, the implementation of one of the methods of internal thermal insulation of ceiling slabs is provided, which is carried out during the repair and finishing work. Although recently, homeowners increasingly prefer to insulate the ceiling from the attic side. It is much more convenient, less expensive and, moreover, not difficult. And this is a strong factor if it is supposed to build a thermal insulation barrier with your own hands.

There is an option for insulating floors on both sides. This is done by those who want to turn housing into an impregnable fortress for the winter cold and summer heat, in order to then constantly save on payments for energy resources.

Looking for a suitable material - polymers or fiber?

There are now enough choices that can be applied for our purposes. Along with the use of modern thermal insulation materials, traditional insulation materials are often used, which have served for this for more than one century. These include wood chips and sawdust, as well as materials based on them (sawdust concrete, a mixture of woodworking waste with clay). Some cover the floor of the attic with a layer of dry leaves or the paws of coniferous trees. Our ancestors used such methods of insulating floors, but nothing prevents us from using such completely natural and often free materials in our time. Although modern technologies and materials are preferred by consumers, therefore, we will briefly consider their variety and main characteristics.

By classifying the materials applicable for the insulation of ceiling ceilings, they can be classified into several groups:

• polymer heat insulators;
• fibrous insulation;
• sprayed materials;
• loose substances.

The well-known polystyrene and the rapidly gaining popularity extruded polystyrene, known to many under the commercial name "penoplex", belong to polymers. Polyfoam is used very widely for thermal insulation purposes in construction. The popularity of the material is ensured by two factors - a very affordable cost and good thermal insulation properties. A high-quality material with a density of at least 35 kg / m 3 also has sufficient hydrophobicity to eliminate the need for hydro and vapor barrier barriers when installing an insulating layer. Everything is good, but there is a, the main of which is flammability, accompanied by extreme toxicity. The smoke released during the combustion of this polymer is able to send to the forefathers anyone who inhales it 2-3 times. For this reason, in many developed countries, this insulation is prohibited for carrying out thermal insulation work in residential buildings.

Penoplex is devoid of many of the disadvantages of foam. It belongs to the class of materials that do not support combustion or self-extinguishing, therefore its use in residential construction is not limited. In addition, polystyrene is completely insensitive to moisture and is not affected by bacterial and fungal microflora. The strength of penoplex is one of the highest when compared with other heat insulators, therefore polystyrene is often used where strength characteristics play an important role (under the screed, thermal insulation of the basements of buildings, basements). In terms of thermal insulation properties, polystyrene is approximately the same as foam plastic - to create a reliable thermal barrier, a layer of insulation of 5-10 cm is enough (depending on the geography of the region).

Fibrous materials for thermal insulation work in construction include varieties of mineral wool. The material differs in the nature of the raw material that is used to make the material. All types of mineral wool are produced by melting minerals and forming fibers held together with organic adhesives. If fibers are formed from molten glass, the result is glass wool. Slag wool is made in the same way from blast furnace slag and other mineral waste of metallurgical production. Basalt wool, considered to be the highest quality material from this category, is formed by thermal action on some types of rocks.

All fiber insulation materials are available in different densities. The highest specific gravity is found in mats, which are mainly used for facade thermal insulation for plastering. Such a heat insulator is durable and tough, therefore it forms a solid surface for finishing work on it. Medium density mineral wool is also produced in the form of mats, but the material is looser and does not have high strength. Mineral wool with the lowest specific gravity on sale comes rolled up in rolls. To insulate the ceiling in the house, you can use mineral wool of medium and low density, and the first will be more appropriate for thermal insulation from the side of the attic with a cold roof, the second - for installing a thermal barrier from the inside.

Sprayable and free-flowing options - there is plenty to choose from

The last word in the technology of thermal insulation of building surfaces is sprayed heat insulators. These include polyurethane foam and ecowool. The first material is a polymer, the second is made from natural raw materials (cellulose). Both heat insulators are applied to the surfaces to be insulated by spraying, although in some cases the ecowool is poured dry into the existing gaps, followed by ramming.

Polyurethane foam in terms of chemical nature, method of application and structure of the finished thermal insulation is very close to conventional polyurethane foam. To prepare a foam with excellent adhesive properties, two components are used, which are dismounted and then applied using special equipment. The advantage of sprayed insulation is its seamlessness, which prevents the formation of cold bridges. Polyurethane foam in the polymerized (cured) state is not flammable and has 1.3 times better thermal insulation characteristics than foam. The disadvantage of a heat insulator is in the gradual destruction under the influence of ultraviolet radiation (you need to protect it) and the impossibility of working with it yourself (the equipment is expensive and it is not advisable to purchase it for a single use).

The most commonly used bulk heat insulator is expanded clay - porous granules of various fractions. The raw material for the production of expanded clay is ordinary clay, so this insulation belongs to environmentally friendly and natural. This insulation does not burn, has moderate hygroscopicity and good thermal insulation properties. The ability to resist heat loss depends on the size of the granules - the smaller the fraction, the higher the thermal conductivity.

For insulation of the attic floor, it is advisable to use expanded clay of 5-10 mm fraction.

Ceiling insulation from the living room side

There are two ways to insulate the floors from the inside. The first involves the installation of thermal insulation boards or mats directly on the floor surface using glue and additional fixation with special dowels. This method is best used if a reinforced concrete slab is used as a floor. The second technology provides for the device of the lathing for the subsequent sheathing with drywall sheets, plastic panels or clapboard. In this case, the insulation is laid between the supporting elements of the frame. This method is feasible for any type of ceiling. Both methods give a good thermal insulation effect, although the thickness of the layer is often limited, due to the desire to preserve the maximum usable space.

To implement the technology of direct installation of insulation on plates, extruded polystyrene is often used, although mineral wool mats with a high specific gravity can also be used. Polystyrene is preferred for several reasons:

• the material is lighter, more convenient to work with during its installation;
• the thermal conductivity of polystyrene of the same thickness is about one and a half times lower than the same indicator of high-density mineral wool;
• to form finishing layers on the surface of mineral wool, you need to have the skills of such an activity, while plastering on polystyrene is no more difficult than on drywall.

In general, the installation of these heaters differs little. The only difference is in the used polymer-cement mixtures for gluing heat-insulating sheets. The sequence of actions with this method of insulation is as follows:

• we treat the floor slab with a primer mixture;
• we prepare polymer cement glue (according to the instructions on the package);
• the adhesive mixture is applied to a sheet of insulation (along the perimeter and in the center), after which we press the polystyrene plate to the concrete surface and set it in a horizontal plane;
• after the glue has set (after about a day), we additionally fix the sheets of insulation with "umbrellas" - special dowels with a wide round head.

It remains to plaster the insulation using a reinforcing mesh and apply finishing layers. If the second method is used, which involves laying insulation in the gaps between the slats or profiles, we take medium or low density mineral wool as a heat-insulating material. Thermal insulation is placed between the frame elements and is slightly fixed by bent straight hanger bars, with which the profiles are attached to the ceiling, after which the lathing is closed with sheathing.

Thermal barrier device on the floor of the attic - available methods

All of the above materials are applicable for the thermal barrier on the attic side. If you need to hire specialized teams for insulation with ecowool or polyurethane foam, it will not be difficult for any home craftsman to form heat-insulating layers with expanded clay, mineral wool or polymer sheet insulation.

If the overlap is made with a reinforced concrete slab, it is more expedient to use expanded clay, filling it with a layer of up to 15 cm, or lay penoplex, filling the seams between the sheets of polymer insulation with polyurethane foam. When it is better to use mineral wool, since it is similar to wood in terms of its ability to pass water vapor. Fiber insulation is laid in the gaps between the supporting wooden beams, after which a vapor barrier is made from the corresponding film. Then counter-rails are sewn along the beams, which will be the basis for the flooring of the attic floor board.

If there is free access to sawn timber waste, you can reduce the cost of the event as much as possible by filling the spaces between the beams with a mixture of fine shavings and sawdust. This method of thermal insulation will be the most environmentally friendly and natural for a floor made of wood materials.

The air heated in the room always rises and, in the absence of a high-quality insulation layer, can escape through the roof cracks to the outside. The loss of heat energy in this case reaches more than 30%, so the owner should take time and prepare for the cold in advance. Consider how and how the ceiling insulation is performed in a house with a cold roof, and also evaluate the possibility of doing it yourself.

Insulation materials perform several functions at once:

1. Reduced noise effects. No sounds from the street will be heard in the rooms.
2. Significant reduction in heat loss. This allows you to save a lot on energy, spending less money on heating your home.
3. During the cold season, cold bridges do not form; in the heat, the insulation does not let excessively heated air into the house, which means that a comfortable temperature is maintained.

Features of choice and types of insulation materials

High-quality insulation of the ceiling in a private house begins with the selection of products. What you need to pay attention to:

• the lower the thermal conductivity, the better;
• resistance to moisture, temperature fluctuations;
• minimum flammability;
• long term of use;
• safety of use.

Mineral wool

One of the most popular products for ceiling insulation work in the attic. It is used for both outdoor and indoor work. It is produced from slag, molten rocks, broken glass, sand and differs in the type of raw material.

Slag

Raw material - blast-furnace slags. It is not recommended to use in attic rooms with a cold roof because of the hygroscopicity of the product - the slag wool will pick up water and quickly become unusable. The second minus is fragility, brittleness of the fiber, which crumbles, remains in the air and can cause diseases.

Glass wool

Raw material - molten glass mass, from which long fibers are drawn, then formed into rolls, plates. The product has low thermal conductivity, water absorption is 0.55-0.8 kg / m2. The materials are widely used to insulate ceilings in attics, both independently and in combination with other insulators. It is recommended to use it from the side of the attic, as the fibers are brittle, sharp and can irritate the mucous membranes of the nose and eyes.

Basalt wool

Raw materials - gabboro-basalt rocks. Insulation is versatile and is widely used for insulation of premises. Low thermal conductivity, resistance to temperature fluctuations, chemical components, rodents, light weight, elasticity are the main positive qualities of the product.

Important! Basalt wool is often supplemented with a foil layer, which increases the reflectivity of the material, thereby reducing heat loss.

Expanded clay

Insulation in the form of dry granules of various sizes, made on the basis of natural clay.

On a note! The smaller the size of the fractions, the higher the density of the bulk layer and the lower the insulation properties. The optimum granule size is 4-10 mm.

Additional advantages: does not burn, has a long service life, retains shape stability, quality indicators throughout the entire period of use. Light weight allows the use of expanded clay in houses with dilapidated ceilings, to isolate areas around chimneys.

Ecowool

Raw materials - waste paper, waste paper production. It is applied wet or dry. Wet - blowing out the composition mixed with water, and dry - scattering of ecowool over the ceiling area, followed by moistening and compaction. The advantages include environmental friendliness and lightness of the material, disadvantages - a lot of dust during work, the need for high-quality protection.

It is important to follow the technology of product display. Plus in favor of ecowool - fine particles penetrate even the thinnest cracks, cracks and clog the surface, increasing the energy efficiency of the structure, and the material does not interfere with air circulation, maintaining a comfortable temperature in the room.

Expanded polystyrene

The reduced coefficient of thermal conductivity is a plus, but the parameter depends on the density and thickness of the sheet. The downside is the flammability of the foam, so it is not recommended to use it for warming baths and saunas. When the temperature rises, the sheets release toxic substances. You can replace the foam with extruded polystyrene foam. It is a self-extinguishing and non-flammable product, but it also emits harmful substances in case of fire.

Polyurethane foam

It is a sprayed material that requires the use of special equipment. The composition can be sprayed in several layers, has a low thermal conductivity and is used on any grounds for insulation outside and inside the house. An additional plus is low moisture absorption, the material retains its quality indicators at any level of humidity, temperature fluctuations.

When spraying, polyurethane foam fills fine cracks and crevices well, creating a dense and elastic protective layer. After hardening, the excess foam is cut off with a knife, which is convenient for adjusting the layer thickness to the level of the general plane of the attic floor.

On a note! When using polyurethane foam, there is no need for additional hydro and vapor barrier - the material initially has all the necessary properties.

Sawdust

Inexpensive and high-quality insulation, which is most often used in combination with other materials, for example, with shavings. Sawdust creates a dense layer, and the shavings are loose, such insulation has the best indicators of energy efficiency.

In order for the insulation to be of high quality, it is necessary to accurately calculate the layer thickness. In addition to loose material, manufacturers offer molded pellets from sawdust compressed into granules. The product has one drawback - flammability. Therefore, you need protection from fire, combining sawdust with clay, lime - these components reduce the risk of fire.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation layer

The indicator depends on temperature fluctuations in the region, roof material and other factors. For calculations, the parameters of the thickness of all layers of material that are already available or that are supposed to be laid out on the ceiling, the dimensions of the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and temperature indicators are useful. The maximum load on the floors, the type of insulation are also determined. All data is entered into the calculation calculator, this program is on the Internet, as a result, the desired thickness is obtained.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside - from the side of the premises

The ceiling is insulated in a wooden house from the inside in two ways:

• Bonding sheets of material to the surface. Additional fixation for dowels.
• Installation on a pre-formed lathing from a bar or metal profile. Longitudinal elements of the lathing are mounted with a step equal to the dimensions of the insulation materials.

Before carrying out work, preparation of the base is required. Consider how to properly insulate the ceiling in a private house in stages.

Preparing a wooden ceiling

Preparatory work includes cleaning the base from dust, old coating. Then you need to treat the surface with antiseptics, antiprenes and let the base dry well. Eliminate cracks, chips and other defects by filling them with wood putty. If the gaps are large, then it is permissible to use polyurethane foam, the excess of which, after drying, is cut off with a knife.

Insulation mounting technology on glue

The technique is used for panel materials. Adhesives are selected depending on the type of product. For example, it is not recommended to use compounds with solvents for foam sheets, they deform and melt the sheets. The best yield is cement-based adhesives or liquid nails.

The cement adhesive is applied to the surface of the base with a notched trowel, the element is pressed, adhered and the next sheet can be mounted. If these are liquid nails or polyurethane foam, then the mixture is applied to the insulation. Then the sheet is also pressed against the ceiling and fixed.

Additionally, the sheets are fixed with dowels with a small cap. 5-6 dowels are enough for one sheet: in the corners and in the center. The gaps are filled with polyurethane foam, which is then cut at the level of the plane. In the same way, sheet basalt mineral wool is mounted. After completing the insulation work, the plates are reinforced with a mesh and can be putty, revetted with finishing material.

Insulation installation technology on the crate

This technology of ceiling insulation in a private house requires the formation of a frame and is used for the subsequent sheathing of the ceiling with clapboard, gypsum board.

Algorithm of work:

• Apply the markings of the future frame to the ceiling. The step of the profiles is equal to the size of the insulation, but not more than 50 cm.
• The wood frame is mounted on dowels, the metal profile can be attached to the ceiling with suspensions.
• Lay the sheets of insulation, placing them in the crate cells. The material should fit snugly against the guide bars.
• Fill the gaps with foam. Then lay a sheet of vapor barrier on top, secure with a stapler or tape. The material is laid out with an overlap of 15-20 cm.

It remains to sew up the ceiling with finishing material.

Insulation from the attic side

The same materials are suitable for performing the work, the differences concern only the layout technology:

1. Roll, sheet materials or mats are laid out between the floor beams. After that, they are sewn up with a board.
2. Ecowool, polyurethane foam are applied by spraying. A special unit is used.
3. Sawdust, expanded clay are scattered on the floor, pre-lined with vapor barrier material.

Board laying technology

Insulation in the form of mats, slabs is laid out in one or more layers. The suspended ceiling is insulated along the floor beams, and the rolling ceiling is insulated on the cranial bars fixed on the same floor beams.

Vapor barrier

The membrane is laid on the false ceiling from the inside of the room and fixed to the base with brackets. The rolled ceiling is insulated with a membrane that is attached to a sheet of plywood or planks fixed to the cranial block.

When using roll materials, the following points are taken into account:

• installation without gaps between the material and the floor beams;
• the width of the sheets is slightly larger than the dimensions of the cells or interbeam space;
• the adhesion of the sheets to the vapor barrier is tight;
• if necessary, two or more layers of insulation, increase the height of the beams;
• when insulating a "cold roof", it is imperative to use waterproofing, it is also overlapped, the joints must be glued with tape;
• on top of the waterproofing, a frame is formed from a counter batten up to 4 cm high so that a gap remains between the insulation and the plank floor.

Polyfoam, regardless of the type, is mounted in the same way. After the completion of the work, a board or plywood is laid, fastened to counter-rails.

Insulation by means of spraying

You will need equipment that blows air and sprays material onto the plane. Two types of material are sprayed: polyurethane foam and ecowool. When using polyurethane foam, steam and waterproofing membranes are not needed, but if ecowool is sprayed, you will first have to cover the base with a vapor barrier so that small particles do not enter the room.

Another installation option is to fill the space between the hemmed or rolling attic flooring with ecowool. To complete the process, you need to dismantle the floorboard, run the hose and fill the entire area with material. With such insulation, ecowool does not mix with water; the spraying method is called dry. The same method is used to insulate the area under the waterproofing film: make a cut in the canvas, blow out ecowool along the plane, then fasten the cut with tape.

The option with manual filling of ecowool is also not difficult: fluff the material, pour it on a plane, tamp and so pour layers with a total thickness of up to 10 cm. Waterproofing is laid on top of the material to protect paper dust from water.

Backfill insulation

Such materials include expanded clay, sawdust, pellets, and other free-flowing granules. The only difference is the sawdust filling technique.

Expanded clay

The granules are laid out in a layer on a prepared surface, which is previously protected with a vapor barrier. A layer of insulation does not require protection from water, but it is recommended to stretch a windproof membrane over expanded clay to eliminate heat leakage. Then the floor is sewn up with boards, fasteners to floor beams or counter-battens. If the supporting structures of the building are already weak, then expanded clay is the best insulation for the ceiling in a wooden house.

Shavings, sawdust

Several options for preparing the base are used: lay glassine, fill up cracks, cover the floors with thick cardboard. There is only one requirement - to close up all the cracks as much as possible, otherwise the insulation will start to spill out through the gaps.

There are two insulation techniques:

1. Lay the sawdust in a clean state, having previously treated the materials with an antiseptic, antiprene. It is better to use a spray gun for better processing. Sawdust and shavings should be laid as follows: first the shavings with a layer of up to 10 cm, then tamp the layer, and then the sawdust. The layer is also compacted. The option has a significant disadvantage - rodents may appear in the insulation. You can avoid this by mixing materials with dry lime: for 5 parts of insulation, 1 part of lime. Stir and spread. A waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation (fastened to the bracket), then the structure is sewn up with boards.
2. Mix sawdust with clay, lime, cement. Proportions: 10 parts sawdust 1 part other material. Mix the components dry, add water, achieving a consistency when the mixture in the fist forms into a lump and does not release water. After that, the solution is laid out on a base covered with waterproofing. Layer thickness - the height of the floor beams. The mixture is compacted, dried and a sub-floor can be laid.

Advice! If gypsum is added instead of cement, you will have to work very quickly - the composition does not differ in vitality. Proportions: 9 parts sawdust 1 part gypsum.

Knowing how and how to insulate the ceiling in a private house, you can choose the right material and easily do the work yourself. Do not forget about roof insulation in order to completely exclude heat leakage from the premises.

The need to independently insulate the ceiling of a private house often arises both for those who have already erected a structure and for those who are still planning construction. Contrary to the opinion that it is difficult to do such work on your own, it is not difficult to insulate the ceiling without the involvement of third-party workers - the owner himself can do this, having some skills and choosing a heater for the ceiling (which one is better for this structure).

The need to insulate the ceiling is by no means due to the low temperature in the building in question. Sometimes humidity becomes more important as a result of temperature differences between floors. The amount that has to be spent on additional heating in order to compensate for the loss of heat is also important.

How to insulate the ceiling in a house with your own hands will be described in detail below.

Before you write off the problem of low temperature in the house on the ceiling, you should decide whether insulation is really necessary.

It is necessary to insulate the ceiling in several cases:

1. You are just starting to build a house, and the ceiling separating the living area and the unheated attic will be represented only by ceiling beams. Then it is reasonable to lay insulating material between them, and then "sew up" them.
2. The house has already begun to settle down, that is, the floor has been ready for a long time, but in winter it turned out that it was necessary to insulate it, since it is cold inside the house in cold weather.
3. They do not live in the upper floor, so the temperature there is significantly lower than the temperature in the lower occupied rooms. So the heated room loses heat in favor of the unheated one.

Thinking about how to insulate the ceiling in a private house, it is worth evaluating all these factors.

It is not necessary to insulate the ceiling when:

1. Slabs with holes were used that were not sufficiently insulated. With this option, it is worth insulating the walls.
2. Both the upper and lower floors are inhabited. Such ceilings can only be soundproofed (that is, make a ceiling cladding and lay the floor).

General requirements for ceiling insulation

When deciding how to insulate the ceiling, you need to consider several rules:

1. It is worth choosing the most environmentally friendly material.
2. Insulation must be fireproof
3. Due to the insulation material, heat loss should be reduced, and not steam circulation that occurs in the house.
4. Moisture should not get on the insulation.

How to insulate the ceiling?

When choosing insulation for the ceiling (which one is best), pay attention to the variety of materials, usually divided into 4 types: bulk, sheet, fibrous and liquid.

Among them are:

• Expanded clay is a loose lightweight clay-based insulation. Does not burn, is environmentally friendly, is not afraid of moisture and insulates well. Rodents and pests are not interested in it, and they do not start in this material.
• Sawdust is a natural material, cheap, easy to use, but very attractive to rodents and fire hazard. You can use it only after thinking over the processing methods.
• Mineral wool is a very often used version of insulation, with excellent thermal insulation characteristics, but rather high hygroscopicity, therefore, this insulation must be protected from moisture.
• Ecowool based on cellulose. Environmentally friendly and well insulating material.
• Styrofoam is easy to use and ideal for DIY installation. It is not hygroscopic and highly fireproof.
• Penoizol is a polymer material that is an innovation in the range of insulation materials. Cavities are filled with Penoizol, where it then solidifies. The material is reliable, does not retain moisture and is safe against possible fires.

Penoizol - an innovative insulation for the ceiling

Types of buildings for ceiling insulation

You can decide how to properly insulate the ceiling, taking into account the type of building to be worked. You can highlight several of them:

• brick buildings;
• wooden buildings;
• houses from foam blocks.

The design and material of the floors will be of great importance when planning the insulation of both the ceiling and walls. Therefore, only by finding the optimal way of insulation, it is possible to safely and as simply reduce heat loss.

Insulation installation options

You can make a decision on how to insulate the ceiling in the house by evaluating all the methods of installing materials.

There are 2 ways:

1. From the inside - a costly option in terms of time, effort, and material;
2. Above - that is, insulation of the attic. Less complicated, less expensive.

It is worth insulating the ceiling from the inside at the stage of building a house, since you hardly want to violate the integrity of the already created finish. Sometimes such serious work is not required - it will be good enough to sound and heat insulate the floor on the upper attic floor. It will be easy if you are not going to make this floor residential and generally use it significantly (which means that you will not trample the insulation for the ceiling). In order to occasionally visit the attic without harm to the material, lay several ladders from the boards.

Insulation works with different types of materials

Warming with sawdust

Sawdust is an inexpensive way to strengthen your home's insulation. Having chosen this material, deciding what is the best way to insulate the ceiling, you need to focus as much as possible on its negative properties - the success of all work depends on how much you can level them. The method of insulating attics with this method is quite well developed - even 20 years ago sawdust or other porous available material was simply poured onto the floor of the attic, since it was not easy to find a worthy replacement.

Sawdust - a proven material for insulation

There are only 2 cons of sawdust, but they are significant and obvious:

• availability and attractiveness to rodents;
• fire hazard.

In addition, such heaters for the ceiling of a wooden house or other structure will make the attic inaccessible for use, because they are very fragile and prone to destruction when trampled.

To overcome the negative characteristics of this otherwise attractive material, you need to take care of its correct processing with agents that prevent fire and animal reproduction. The simplest of these substances are lime and gypsum, with which sawdust is mixed before adding the binders to coat the elements - cement and clay.

The general technology of house insulation is as follows:

1. the ceiling should be covered with parchment (special);
2. floors and boards must be treated with fire retardants;
3. it is necessary to prepare a mixture of water, cement and sawdust, pour the formed liquid insulation.

Insulation - foam

Liquid foam is a very convenient way to insulate the ceiling

Analyzing insulation for the ceiling of the house, you understand that foam is one of the best options from inexpensive and available for independent use. Its advantages are very significant, although some details of its installation require strict adherence. Modern materials (polyurethane foam, for example) make it much easier to work with this insulation - they allow you to maintain the tightness of the joints.

In combination with mineral wool, the foam becomes an even more effective insulation material, allowing you to create an ideal "barrier" for warm air.

Polyfoam has many positive qualities. Among them:

• high sound and thermal insulation;
• impermeability of moisture and resistance to negative external conditions and mechanical pressure (this insulation will not cake);
• ease;
• simplicity of the installation process;
• versatility and strength (although remember that pressing the sheets is not worth it - this will lead to a loss of heat-retaining properties).

All the advantages of polystyrene cannot cover several of its disadvantages, namely:

• fire hazard;
• susceptibility to rodents;
• difficulties in fitting to the specific dimensions of the surface of the foam sheets;
• thorough preparation of the floor, ceiling when using this material.

Sheet foam - an affordable and convenient material for thermal insulation

The technology of insulating the ceiling with foam is relatively simple, such work is performed in two ways:

1. from the side of the attic - the sheets are laid in the space between the beams, and the joints are foamed. Then floor boards are laid on top of the beams.
2. from the side of the ceiling - the foam is glued directly to the plates and the joints are sealed. From above, the ceiling is sewn into plasterboard or a stretch ceiling is installed.

Mineral wool insulation

When evaluating insulation for the ceiling in the house (which is better or worse), we focus on accessibility and ease of use. Minvata is an ideal material for these indicators, but, as already mentioned, the combination with foam sheets is even more effective.

High-quality insulation of the ceiling in the house allows you to keep warm in cool weather and prevent the room from heating up during frying. To insulate the ceiling in a private house means to gain economically and increase the level of comfort. But how to insulate the ceiling for less money? The market offers a wide range of solutions for this.

First steps in ceiling insulation: general rules

Ceiling insulation is a necessary measure, despite the high labor costs. As a result, the owner will receive comfortable living conditions with low fuel consumption for heating in winter.

How to insulate the ceiling in the house? Main rules:

1. The choice of environmentally friendly and safe material.
2. Insulation should be made of non-combustible material.
3. The material should not only have high thermal insulation properties, but also not disturb the natural humidity. That is, he must breathe.
4. The material should not be exposed to moisture.

Note! Only compliance with all parameters guarantees high quality thermal insulation after work.

Preparatory work: material selection

5 materials meet the above criteria. They are recommended for use when installing an insulating layer on the ceiling of a private house with your own hands:

1. Styrofoam. A polymer characterized by fire safety and lack of susceptibility to moisture.
2. Penoizol. Polymer with a porous structure, which has an unlimited life.
3. Mineral wool. Feature - it absorbs moisture, so water in one form or another should not get on it. Most popular material.
4. Ecowool. Conserves heat no worse than a mineral analogue. Produced on the basis of cellulose.
5. Expanded clay. Made on the basis of clay - a natural component. Dignity - rodents never get into it. In addition, expanded clay is not afraid of moisture. Loose.

Only the last 2 materials are natural. But the rest also do not have a negative impact on human health.

You can create a warm ceiling with budgetary funds, which are always available in abundance:

1. Slag. Negatively affects the service life of the floors. It emits a small fraction of radiation.
2. Sawdust. Over time, they deteriorate by insects, losing some of their properties.
3. Dry grass. Promotes the establishment of insects and rodents.

Economical solutions have drawbacks, but they have the right to be used in non-permanent housing and outbuildings of the old type, where it is a pity to invest large funds - summer cottages, old houses or in a bathhouse.

Insulation installation: location options

The main heat loss in the house occurs through the ceiling of the last floor, above which there is an attic with a roof. Accordingly, the method of installing insulation 2:

1. Outer.
2. Interior.

Both methods give the desired result. But there are differences. They consist not only in the installation features, but also on what materials are used. Namely:

• Vapor permeable.
• Waterproofing.

That is, this is how a material can work with moisture - to absorb and let it through or repel it. For interior decoration, a vapor-permeable material is used, and outside, a water-repellent material.

It is used if there is no attic above the residential floor. Required:

1. Install the frame. Usually made of wood, on the floor of the attic. The final design depends on the insulation material.
2. Fill the frame with heat-insulating material.

On this, the layer of insulation can not be touched. However, if the attic is periodically used for domestic needs and you have to walk on its floor, then the insulating layer must be covered:

• With concrete.
• Plywood or clapboard.

Internal insulation

If there is a regularly used room above the living quarters, in the form of an attic or warehouse, it is advisable to use an internal insulating structure. Disadvantages of the method:

1. Labor intensity.
2. Decreased wall heights.

Note! With the internal method of laying the insulation, waterproofing is required, between the insulation and the ceiling. It is needed if a vapor-permeable material is used.

When building a new house, if the project did not provide for internal insulation, it is enough to make changes to the project. But for an already commissioned house, this can become a problem, especially with a low ceiling height. And if the structure of the wooden ceiling can be changed, then the concrete ceiling cannot be changed.

For work, a frame is also formed, which is filled with insulation. Then the structure is covered with plasterboard.

Note! The peculiarity of using wool (mineral and eco) is that it cannot be pressed to reduce the thickness. It contains pores that reduce its thermal conductivity. Therefore, it should be used with caution in interior decoration.

Examples of work execution

Each material is unique and it must be laid on the ceiling according to its own, separate technology. Required materials and tools:

• Boards or metal profiles to form the frame.
• Insulation.
• Cutting tools.
• Fasteners.
• Protection - glasses, respirator, gloves.

The nuances of the work carried out:

1. There should be no breaks on the vapor barrier film. Including between the seams. Runs should be overlapped.
2. In the frame, the distance between the slats should be 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation sheet. The height of the frame is 1-2 cm higher than the thickness of the insulation to ensure air circulation to the waterproofing layer on top.

The following are ways to insulate the ceiling with popular heaters.

A loose material that has gained popularity as a thermal insulating layer for floors. Recently, it has been used as an inexpensive insulation for the ceiling. Specifications:

• Not subject to oxidation, including combustion.
• Does not emit harmful substances.
• Does not attract rodents and is not covered with fungus.
• It is inferior to cotton wool and foam in thermal insulation properties.
• Heavy. Applied only on strong ceilings with support beams.

Installation technology:

1. A vapor barrier is laid on the floor of the attic. You can use regular film.
2. The niches between the beams are covered with expanded clay. It is advisable to use fractions of different sizes to form multiple layers. Thickness - at least 20 cm. In cold climates - from 40 cm.
3. The material is leveled.
4. A vapor barrier is mounted on top.
5. Floor laying.

An alternative material is foam glass. It retains heat better.

This material is called liquid foam. Special additives make it non-flammable and deter rodents. Lack of installation - you need skilled workers with equipment who can properly insulate.

The technology is simple. Foam insulation with a layer thickness of 20-30 cm is poured onto the vapor barrier, previously covered with a layer of foam. If necessary, you can mount the floor on top.

thermal insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool is the most popular method. Easy to do with your own hands. Types of mineral wool:

1. Slagged. Made from blast furnace slag. Unsuitable material for insulation due to increased hygroscopicity and high thermal conductivity.
2. Stone. Produced from rock with the addition of clay. Has a low thermal conductivity.
3. Glass wool. Has the lowest thermal conductivity. Differs in low cost. When it gets on the mucous membranes of a person, it causes irritation.

Installation procedure:

1. Install a vapor barrier.
2. Mount the frame.
3. Lay cotton wool.
4. Attach waterproofing to the cotton wool.

Polymer cellular material. In terms of thermal insulation properties, it is similar to glass wool. Material properties:

1. Low cost.
2. Light weight.
3. Flammable, with the release of a toxic substance. When heated, they can also be released.
4. Rodents can make a nest in it.
5. Contributes to the greenhouse effect.

Installation options:

• With a frame.
• On the glue.

On the frame, the foam lays down like the method with cotton wool. However, you should first apply liquid nails to the frame slats and the upper part of the foam. Installation with glue:

1. Cleaning and washing of the installation surface. You will need a primer.
2. Apply glue to the top of the foam and press the sheet against the ceiling surface.
3. The glued sheets are covered with a layer of plaster and then reinforced with reinforcing fiber. On top of it, plaster also lay down.