Most of the summer residents, growing tomatoes, are familiar with such a problem as late blight. It is tomatoes that more than other vegetables are exposed to the disease, which manifests itself in the blackening of fruits and leaves, which affects the amount of harvest.

Phytophtora always lives in the soil and appears in the second half of summer, when it is already cold enough and damp at night, which means there is a good environment for its development. Now gardeners use both chemicals and various folk methods to deal with the scourge. We will consider all methods in this article.

What is late blight?

If you are not familiar with such a disease, then you simply did not grow tomatoes. You need to know the enemy personally by sight, or rather the signs of the onset of late blight disease, in order to quickly begin to fight it.

Late blight (or late blight) is a disease caused by a fungus. There are about 50 species of these fungi. The word "late blight" is translated as "destroying the plant."

Fungi reproduce asexually through spores.

The mycelium of fungi lives in the remnants of diseased crops, in the soil, in garden tools and, after overwintering the winter, begins its cycle anew under favorable conditions for it (high humidity is the most important of them).

Depending on the type of the fungus itself, there are several types of late blight:

Phytophthora cactorum Schroet. Appears on trees of the beech family (oak, beech), pine (coniferous), rose hips;
Phytophthora cinnamomi Bonds. Trees of the beech and walnut families are affected by this fungus;
Phytophthora infestans. The well-known late blight of potatoes and other vegetables of the nightshade family;
Phytophthora fragariae. Raspberries, buckwheat and strawberries are affected. Recorded in North America, Europe. In Russia, cases of infection are rare.

Phytophthora on tomatoes appears most often at the end of summer. In other words, it is brown rot, which first affects the leaves, and then the fruits of tomatoes.

The leaves are covered with brown spots underneath.

In the rain, tomato leaves, affected by late blight, seem to be covered with a light-colored oil film. Tomato inflorescences turn yellow, darken and fall off.

The spots on the fruits of tomatoes of different sizes are gray-brown in color. The disease spreads throughout the tomato plantation quickly, in just a couple of days. The bush is quickly depressed and gradually dies off. Therefore, the beginning of the epidemic is easy to miss.

The first signs of late blight on tomatoes

Phytophthora is a fungal disease that more often affects tomatoes and potatoes, eggplant and peppers are a little less ill with it.

The main signs are:

The stem of the plant is covered with brown spots of irregular shape;
Inflorescences are yellow or dark, fall off quickly;
There are dark spots on the leaves. Then the leaves dry up and fall off;
The fruits are covered with gray-brown or black spots.

Photo of the disease on tomatoes

Below you can see what the disease looks like on plants in order to recognize it in time.

How does defeat begin?

High humidity is a trigger for the fungus that causes late blight... When moisture appears, the spores first attack the leaves, starting from the bottom of it.

They are covered with a white bloom, which gradually passes to the upper part in the form of brown spots.

Following the leaves, inflorescences are affected (they dry out and fall off), and then the fruits themselves. Gradually increasing spots of gray-brown color, almost black in places, cover the entire fruit.

The rind becomes thin, and the flesh begins to rot and smell unpleasant at the same time. In just a few days, the entire crop is affected by late blight, and without proper attention from the gardener, it will be lost.

Causes of the disease

Before starting an effective fight against late blight, you need to know what are the causes of the disease. Consider the main ones that cause late blight on tomatoes:

Close proximity to potatoes (more often the disease begins with it);
Dense plantings and lack of ventilation between the bushes;
A big difference between night and daytime temperatures and abundant dew in the morning (more often this occurs in August), as well as the absence of heat;
Frequent and heavy rains in the second half of summer;
Excessive watering in July-August during fruit ripening, as well as irrigation on the leaves;
Excess nitrogen;
Increased lime content in the soil;
Lack of potassium, copper, iodine, manganese in the soil.

Knowing the main reasons, you can avoid mistakes in care in advance and save your crop.

What to do if the disease appears in the greenhouse?

In a greenhouse, late blight on tomatoes with proper care may not appear. The main thing is to observe the wet and heat conditions, as well as to do preventive treatment.

It is not worth making close plantings, not planting other tomatoes, potatoes next to the greenhouse in order to reduce the risks of transferring the disease from them to the greenhouse.

Watering is necessary rarely, but in large quantities. Prevention in the greenhouse begins precisely with the disinfection of the premises and equipment. And if late blight got into a greenhouse with tomatoes, then it develops even faster than in the open field: the warm and humid climate inside it contributes to this.

Measures applicable outdoors

Tomatoes planted outdoors are most susceptible to the fungus that causes late blight.

If agricultural technology has not been followed, then with an increase in humidity, the appearance of frequent rains and a large amount of dew, late blight will necessarily manifest itself.

It is easier to prevent the disease here than to try to fight it when it has already manifested itself. When obvious signs are visible, it is already difficult to deal with it and a large loss of yield is ensured.

Methods and methods of struggle

As soon as late blight appeared on the bushes with tomatoes, the question of how to get rid of the misfortune arises before the gardeners. In total, there are 2 ways to treat late blight:

Chemical (using drugs containing chemically active substances in the composition);
Folk (food is more often used as the main active ingredient).

Important! When processing tomatoes, potatoes should also be processed, especially if they are planted nearby. Often it is from potatoes to tomatoes that late blight passes.

Fighting with chemicals

Let us analyze the main drugs that are most popular among summer residents and gardeners, which are used to treat tomatoes.

Spraying Hom

Hom Is a fungicide characterized by contact action. The active ingredient is copper oxychloride, which acts on the surface and does not penetrate into the leaf and fruit.

It is suitable for prophylaxis, protects the plant well, but absolutely does not heal an already ailing bush.

It is not able to accumulate, which means that the fungi do not get used to the drug and each application will be effective.

Can be processed up to 5 times per season. Lasts up to 2 weeks, but is easily washed off by rain. Last treatment at least 20 days before harvest. Prepare a solution according to the instructions, dissolving 40 gr. preparation for 10 liters of water. You cannot store it. Use in the evening or morning in clear weather. Hazard class - the third, requires protective clothing and safety precautions.

Furacilin treatment

Furacilin is an antibacterial drug for humans. But many summer residents use it to treat a tomato from late blight.

The solution can be prepared for the whole summer at once, because due to its bactericidal properties, it does not deteriorate. You need to grind 10 tablets and dilute in 10 liters of water.

You need to spray it 3 times a season: before flowering, when the first fruit ovaries appear, when the first tomatoes ripen. The drug is harmless to humans.

How to treat with Fitosporin?

Fitosporin – It is a biological pesticide that contains bacteria.

"Medicine" penetrates into plant tissues and kills all pathogenic bacteria with the help of beneficial microorganisms.

This drug is biologically safe, the fruits of tomatoes can be eaten immediately, after thoroughly washing out.

It combines well with other chemicals. Suitable for prophylaxis as well as treatment. Features of the solution preparation (2 tsp for 10 liters of water):

Use warm water no higher than 35 ℃;
Do not use metal containers;
Keep the solution in the sun for several hours to activate beneficial bacteria.

You need to process the whole plant. Frequency - every 10 days during the season (if it rains, then immediately after the rain). A similar bacteriological composition and method of application for the preparations Baktofit, Baikal-EM, Fitoftorin, Planriz.

Use of Trichopolum or Metronidazole

Trichopolus – This drug (antimicrobial and antifungal action) for people with the active ingredient metronidazole (to reduce waste, you can buy a drug with the same name).

Used by gardeners not so long ago.

The solution is made as follows: 2 tablets per liter of water. Processing - every 10 days or after rain (if tomatoes grow in open ground), since it does not linger on the leaves.

How to defeat Ordan's disease?

Ordan – it is a fungicide with 2 active ingredients: copper chloride and cymoxanil.

Penetrates into the plant, remains a little on the surface.

The therapeutic effect is 2-4 days, and the preventive one is up to 14 days.

From here comes the frequency of use. Prepare a solution for tomatoes as follows: 25 gr. half a bucket of water (bucket - 10 liters). Do not eat the fruit within 5 days.

Attention! The drug Ordan has a third hazard class for humans: it requires protective equipment and measures.

Countermeasures with folk remedies

Adherents of natural agriculture, as well as people who use traditional methods of cultivating the land, but reject the use of chemistry in growing tomatoes, use only folk methods to combat late blight in tomatoes. Let's analyze the most popular ones.

Using milk whey or kefir

Lactic acid bacteria contained in dairy products suppress the pathogenic flora of phytophthora.

It is used for prophylactic purposes and for treatment. The effect is the same for different milk products, although it is whey that gives the maximum effect.

Different ratio to water: whey is diluted 1: 1 (or 1: 2) with water, a liter of kefir is diluted in 10 liters of water. Instead of kefir, you can take milk and add about 20 drops of iodine. Let the solution stand, then spray. The procedure can be carried out at least every day.

Soda treatment

Soda, a product in which the usual place is a kitchen cabinet, can be used for late blight of tomatoes.

In half a bucket of water you need a tablespoon of baking soda and a little liquid soap for the "sticky" effect.

Repeat every week or after rain.

Using salt to fight

Salt is able to fight such a scourge as late blight. After getting on the leaves and fruits and drying, it will cover everything with a thin white layer, which will prevent fungi from entering the plant.

This is only a preventive measure, because struggling on the surface. For a saline solution, you need 250 g. Dissolve the salts in a 10-liter bucket of water. Spray the entire plant. After the rain it is worth repeating.

Vinegar

This product is often used as a remedy against late blight.

Half a glass of table vinegar (9%) should be diluted in a bucket of water and sprayed over the whole plant.

It is good to alternate this procedure with other folk and chemical methods.

Toothpaste

This unusual method is also used by many summer residents. There are many substances in toothpaste that have a bactericidal effect.

To combat the disease, you need to take a tube of toothpaste and dilute it in a bucket of water.

For convenience, first stir the paste in a small amount, and then combine with the rest of the water. Toothpaste is better suited as a prophylaxis. Repeat every time after rain, can be combined with other methods.

Spraying with garlic tincture

Garlic has a strong odor and good antibacterial properties. Garlic can be planted with tomatoes.

To fight the disease, pour 1.5 cups of chopped arrows and heads of garlic with 10 liters of water and leave for a day.

After you need to spray all the bushes with a solution. You need to repeat it every 2 weeks.

Boiling water (hot water)

The cheapest way. To do this, clean water must be brought to a boil and poured into a watering can with a special nozzle in the form of a shower head.

Water the tomato bushes with hot water carefully, raising the watering can higher so as not to damage the plant.

Repeat the procedure once a week.

Interesting! It was found that spores of a harmful fungus die at temperatures above + 30 ° C

Ash

Ash solution effectively fights late blight on tomatoes.

You need 5 kg. dissolve ash in 10 liters of water and leave for 3 days, stirring regularly.

After the volume of the solution is brought to 30 liters, add any liquid soap as an "adhesive".

Spray 3 times throughout the season: a week after planting in the ground, before flowering and after the first ovaries appear. Another way: add a glass of tobacco dust to a bucket of ash. Wear a respirator and goggles before use.

Yeast

An almost constant ingredient in baked goods also works well with late blight.

It can be used at the first signs of tomato disease and in advance during the period of ovary emergence.

For this, 100 gr. yeast must be dissolved in a bucket of warm water, let it brew a little and then spray the whole plant.

Hay protection

And you need to take the already rotten, rotted hay.

Pour about a kilogram of hay with 10 liters of warm water and add about 100 grams. urea.

Leave to infuse for 3 days and then process the tomato bushes with the prepared mixture. Hay stick perfectly prevents the development of late blight.

Other ways to combat late blight tomato

There are still ways to treat tomatoes for this scourge. We list the basic recipes that gardeners use.

Iodine treatment

The well-known antiseptic agent can be used in combination with other folk remedies (with milk, kefir, ash solution) for a more effective fight.

Dosage: for 10 liters of water - 20 drops of iodine.

To strengthen the immunity of plants in greenhouses, you can hang open jars of iodine.

How to treat with hydrogen peroxide?

It is an additional source of oxygen for plants.

It has oxidizing properties and destroys the pathogenic flora of phytophthora.

For a liter of water, add 2 tablespoons. hydrogen peroxide and spray the entire plant, especially the lower part of the leaves. Repeat no more than once a week.

How to protect tomatoes with bibs?

Such a device with a "childish" name is a covering of the soil around a tomato bush with several layers of newspaper, cardboard (or mulching with pre-shredded paper).

Bibs allow less watering, because retain moisture in the soil in sufficient quantity, which means it does not create excessive moisture. In addition, it prevents the transfer of spores from the soil to the plant itself.

Copper wire against adversity

Copper is harmful to the spores of the phytophthora fungus. A simple and effective way to combat the disease is to wrap the plant around the root collar with copper wire.

For a better result, you need to pierce the stem at the base with a small piece of wire (about 4 cm).

The ends must be bent to the ground. Copper from the wire will help strengthen the plant's immunity and prevent late blight from spreading.

Important! The plant itself must already be well developed, otherwise the bush can be ruined.

Potassium permanganate

This product has antiseptic properties.

It is good to use together with other folk methods (garlic, ash, milk).

Calcium chloride

Another drug from the pharmacy perfectly fights late blight fungi. It is the fruit that saves well when the leaves are already affected. To do this, dilute calcium chloride with water in a ratio of 1: 3 and process the fruits of the tomatoes.

How to stop copper sulfate infection?

One of the most popular remedies for treating late blight tomatoes.

The main active ingredient is copper, which copes well with the misfortune.

To prepare a solution of 1 tbsp. add the drug and a little liquid soap to 10 liters. water so that the drug stays on the leaves longer.

Zelenka

Antiseptic agent in the amount of 40 drops per bucket of water is a good remedy for late blight of tomatoes.

It can be used for prophylaxis and also as a treatment.

Boric acid

Attention! The most effective way is to alternate the use of iodine, boric acid, brilliant green, manganese. Frequency - once a week.

Bordeaux mixture

Another preparation with copper content (consists of copper sulfate and quicklime).

To prepare the solution, you need to take 100 gr. copper sulfate and 150 gr. quicklime per 10 liters of water, and mix in strict sequence: first copper sulfate in water, and then lime.

The liquid is quite toxic, so you need to use protective equipment.

How to handle correctly?

The basic processing rules are as follows:

The weather should be clear and calm;
The best time is early morning or evening;
If the drugs are toxic, then you need to use protective equipment and observe safety precautions;
Do not use metal utensils for preparing solutions, especially chemical ones, and mixing devices (preferably plastic, glass, wood).

Late blight resistant varieties

There are no such varieties that, in principle, do not get sick with late blight. There are varieties that can withstand it more than others. Most often these are hybrid varieties. For a good harvest, it is worth planting early ripe tomatoes, the harvest of which can be removed before mass destruction by late blight. Late blight-resistant varieties:

Blizzard;
Budenovka;
Kostroma;
Pink dwarf;
Parterre;
Profitable;
Gratifying;
Dubrava;
Lark F1;
De Barao;
Berry;
Solar;
Grotto;
Snezhana;
Cameo, etc.

Prevention of late blight on tomatoes

To reduce the risks of late blight contamination of tomatoes and save the harvest, you need to carry out competent agricultural technology. Basic Rules:

Compliance with the crop rotation of tomatoes. Do not plant tomatoes after potatoes, peppers, eggplants, avoid their close proximity. Good precursors for tomatoes are onions, cucumbers, beets, turnips, cauliflower, and carrots. Do not return tomatoes to the same garden before 4 years;
The place for tomato planting should be sunny;
Choose varieties that are either early maturing or the most resistant to late blight hybrid varieties;
If there is a lot of lime in the soil, then add peat to the hole when planting, and then sprinkle it around the bush with sand. Put onion peels in the holes;
Don't plant tomatoes too often;
Water the tomatoes at the root, trying not to hurt the leaves and fruits. In the second half of summer, you can not do this procedure at all (the exception is intense heat without rain), but only regularly loosen the soil around the bush. It is better to water the plants in the morning so that the excess moisture is gone during the day. Drip irrigation is ideal;
Mulching bushes;
Planting white mustard, calendula, marigolds, as well as onions, garlic next to tomato bushes;
Remove stepchildren and unnecessary leaves in time;
Improve the immunity of tomatoes: feeding with potassium and phosphorus, spraying with immunomodulators;
Ventilate the greenhouse regularly;
Nitrogen fertilizers are appropriate only in the first half of the growing season, the rest of the time, frequent fertilizing with nitrogen will provoke the growth of phytophthora.

The rules are pretty simple. Observing them, you can avoid massive destruction of tomatoes and even not even encounter late blight. Any disease is easier to prevent. Then your tomato garden will surely yield a great harvest.

Important! Prevention is the best way to deal with this scourge. Proper care will help preserve the harvest.

Frequent mistakes

Most often, the main mistakes are the lack of preventive measures to prevent the disease.

During the rampage of the disease, you should not water the bushes at all, so as not to increase the humidity.
Another mistake is the use of many methods at the same time, especially chemical ones. Surely you will cope and save part of the harvest, but the plants themselves may die, and the fruits become poisonous due to the large number of chemicals used.

Frequently asked Questions

Questions about this disease arise frequently. We will answer the most common:

Is it possible to water tomatoes infected with late blight?

If the weather is cloudy, the air temperature is low, it is even recommended not to water the infected bushes. You just need to loosen the soil.

Is it possible to eat tomatoes with late blight?

Tomatoes with black spots, damaged by disease, few people want to eat. Eating, even removing damaged areas, is not worth it, because the spores of the fungus have already completely penetrated the fruit pulp. Those tomatoes that are touched by the fungus only on top can be eaten after heat treatment.

How to save fruits damaged by late blight?

Good fruits from an infected bush can be eaten with proper processing: the fruits should be held for 10-15 seconds in water with a temperature of 60 ℃. After they need to be dried and left to ripen.

How to save plucked tomatoes?

Green tomatoes can be preserved for the winter, having previously processed them well. Red fruits are best eaten right away or canned as well.

Useful video

Learn more about the fight against late blight from the video below:

Conclusion

In conclusion, it should be said that the most important thing in the treatment of tomatoes from late blight is prevention. If you take all preventive measures, then problems with this scourge can be avoided.

Which method to choose for the treatment of tomatoes from late blight is a personal matter for each gardener. Complete elimination of the disease does not guarantee any of the listed methods. To effectively combat the onset of tomato disease, it is better to alternate methods and methods so that the fungus does not get used to it and does not develop immunity to drugs.

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Every summer, all gardeners begin to grow their favorite vegetables and fruits on their plots, and in addition to everyday and usual concerns, they have additional efforts to protect their crops from various types of diseases. Moreover, even the hottest summer is quite often replaced by temperature changes and, as a result, is marked by abundant torrential rains, which have an extremely negative effect on the health of some plants.

One of the most annoying and common disease in summer cottages that attacks mainly tomatoes is (late blight). And today we will tell you in detail how to treat phytophthora in the open field or and what folk remedies are better to use.

What is this disease?

Phytophthora is a serious disease of garden plants caused by the fungus Phytophthora infestans. Most often, it is precisely this fungus that suffers from this, but there have been cases of infection and such crops, as well as even. It is not difficult to trace the alarming symptoms on your vegetables: it is enough to identify gradually growing spots of an ugly dirty brown shade on the tomato tops, which increase many times faster during wet weather.

Such "blots" begin to appear on tomato leaves as early as 3 days after infection, and then, depending on weather conditions, contribute to the complete death of the shoots. Further, on the stems, you will notice a gradually emerging grayish bloom, and on the fruits - wet and depressed black spots, which will also gradually spread over the rest of the plant surface.

No one is insured against the defeat of late blight of the garden plot, however, the appearance of this disease is still facilitated by some reasons and conditions:

cold weather and frequent rains;
non-observance of the required temperature regime (in greenhouses) for;
covering tomatoes with a film from the cold during temperature fluctuations (day and night) contributes to the formation of condensation, which, in turn, provokes the development of phytophthora.

Did you know? There is not a single continent in the world free of the phytophthora genus– 70 its species can calmly and coolly destroy all cultivated plants known to us.

Folk remedies

Today, a rich assortment of various chemicals is presented on the domestic market that are able to cope with annoying late blight for the first time and delay the inevitable death of the plant for a long time, since it is no longer possible to completely defeat the disease that has appeared.

But as practice has shown, late blight can be completely avoided - for this you just need to take effective preventive measures in time, consisting in old, proven over the years, folk methods.
And in order to find out what exactly means will help in the fight against late blight on tomatoes in open areas, or, we turn to the following points.

Garlic and manganese

The well-known universal solution of potassium permanganate with. Its preparation technology is very simple, and its effective disinfecting properties are striking in their effectiveness. To prepare the solution, you need to act in stages:

In a meat grinder, 100 grams of garlic is crushed, and all its parts at once: leaves, bulbs and arrows.
The garlic mixture is poured into a glass of clean water and left for 24 hours at room temperature, in a dry and cool place.
Before use, the present concentrate is diluted with water (10 liters).
Tomatoes should be sprayed every 2 weeks in calm and dry weather.

Fruits and leaves on a bush are processed separately with a solution of manganese prepared in the following proportions: 3 grams of powder per 10 liters of water.

Important!If there are risks of fruit rotting from late blight before full ripening, then it is better to pick them off, keep them in water (temperature– 35 ° C ) with potassium permanganate for about half an hour, then dry and let them ripen in a dry open place, for example.

If you have chosen straw infusion as a preventive weapon against late blight, then it is important to remember that the main ingredient must be rotten (hay or straw). The straw is poured with ten liters of water, a handful of urea is added to the resulting mixture, and then all this is infused for three days.
Then the finished tincture is thoroughly filtered and then the tomatoes are sprayed every two weeks.

Milk serum

Milk whey has long been known to experienced summer residents for its undeniable effectiveness in the war against late blight fungus: it forms a thin, almost invisible film on tomato leaves, which prevents harmful microorganisms from seeping into vegetable tissues and taking root there.

Fungal infections of various types always try to "bypass" plants treated with serum, since the lactic bacteria and microflora contained in it have a detrimental effect on them. But the irrigation procedure must be repeated without forgetting, since the serum itself is short-lived and very quickly loses its antimicrobial power. Some sources say that it is the spraying scheme once every 10 days that is the most effective, but based on the experience of many agronomists and gardeners, we concluded that the manipulation should be carried out as often as possible, even every day. But in order to use the serum for its intended purpose, it must initially be turned into a working solution - for this it is diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio. In this way, you can safely process tomatoes from the ill-fated phytophthora both in a greenhouse and in an open area.

Milk and iodine

No wonder many people professionally cultivatingtomato are considered the best preventionfrom late blight treatment plants with a solution of milk andiodine, because its disinfecting properties not only kill pathogenic bacteria, but also contribute to the rapid and high-quality process of ripening tomato fruits.
To prepare such a solution, you only need half a glass of low-fat milk, clean water and a couple of drops of iodine (you should not add more, this can burn the leaves). Milk and iodine are added to 1 liter of water, then all unprotected areas must be thoroughly sprayed with the prepared mixture.

If you find signs of late blight on ripening tomatoes, then the best option would be to let the still unhealthy tomato fruits ripen and be harvested faster.

For such a purpose, without using any chemicals, a regular saline solution is well suited: it allows the stems to get rid of the affected leaves as quickly as possible, thereby giving the bush additional time and energy to accelerate fruit ripening, and also completely covers the entire plant with a salt film, which significantly slows down the development of a fungal disease. For its preparation, only 100 g of salt per 1 liter of water is used.
It is also important to remember that only diseased areas with plants can be irrigated with saline, because it can harm other garden crops.

Kefir

For a long enough time, obsessive fungi will help keep regular kefir. For thorough processing, you first need to prepare a working solution, which consists of 1 liter of kefir and 5 liters of water. Tomatoes must be sprayed with this remedy only 14 days after planting on a permanent territory, and then the manipulation is carried out every week.

Ash solution

To destroy late blight spores, which are just beginning to germinate on tomato soil, a solution containing ash is very often used, which has strong disinfecting properties and destroys, in addition to fungi, other infections that infect plants. Such a tincture is prepared quickly and simply: 250 ml of ash is poured with a liter of water, boiled over a fire for 15 minutes. The resulting mixture is thoroughly filtered, and then another 10 liters of water are added to it.

Now you should take care of the solution for spraying the bushes in order to consolidate the result of disinfection: 6 liters of ash are thoroughly mixed with ten liters of water, and then the resulting mixture is allowed to stand in a dark place for at least three days.
Spraying tomato seedlings must be carried out 3 times, the first - when it takes root in, the second - before flowering, and the third - when the first ovaries appear.

Tinder spraying

Tinder sprays will be very useful for tomato bushes that have not yet had time to suffer from late blight. Paradoxically, it just so happened that the tinder fungus can act as a serious obstacle to the development of other harmful fungi, especially for phytophthora.

Planting should be irrigated at the time of fruit setting, every 10 days early in the morning, preferably in calm and calm weather. The recipe for preparing a tinder solution is as follows: a dried tinder mushroom (100 g) is crushed in a meat grinder and poured with boiling water, after complete cooling, the mixture is filtered, and the solution immediately becomes usable.

Copper

An interesting method of dealing with late blight was invented by German scientists: it consists in wrapping the root system of seedlings with thin copper wire. Our agronomists have adapted this method in their own way - they came up with the idea of \u200b\u200bpiercing the stem of the bush with such a wire. The method looks strange, but it is amazingly effective: thanks to micro doses of copper, chlorophyll is stabilized in the plant, and the correct oxidative processes are restored.
But it is important to remember that such manipulation can only be carried out on strengthened tomato stems.

The process of introducing copper is carried out in stages:

A thin copper wire is sanded or calcined, then cut into small pieces of 3 cm.
The stem puncture is done not necessarily near the soil itself, but at a distance of about 10 cm.
The wire is carefully inserted into the stem, its ends are bent downward.
It is categorically impossible to wrap the stem.

The method will definitely work if you do everything correctly and slowly.

Did you know?The first person who discovered that late blight was afraid of copper was an unknown meticulous journalist (unfortunately, his name was not even preserved in history). But it was thanks to his observation that people saw that the nasty mushroom did not appear near copper smelters, and then the Germans patentednowthe saving method known to us with a wire.

To combat late blight at the very initial stage, the most common baker's yeast is perfect. For effective spraying, only 100 grams of product is enough, which should be dissolved in 10 liters of water. Then the solution must be applied for its intended purpose.

Prevention

Of considerable importance in the fight against late blight on tomatoes, in the greenhouse and in the open field is also other preliminary prevention, which is carried out with similar folk remedies. If you try to follow all these methods, you can forget about late blight at least for a while. For a good result, you must perform the following actions:

It is advisable to start prophylaxis already at the first stages of planting: for this you need to process the seeds of vegetables with high quality. Usually, the seeds are soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate for 20 or 30 minutes.
Pick up early varieties that are less sensitive to the fungus.
In the process of planting seedlings, the holes prepared for tomatoes must be abundantly treated with copper sulfate (1 tbsp. Spoon per 10 liters of water).
Provide a good distance between plantings (at least 30 cm).
When the fruits of the first cluster appear on the bushes, it is necessary to remove the lower leaves.
Watch for the appearance of flowers and brushes on the tops of the bushes - it is advisable to pluck them in time.

Based on the above information, we can draw the following conclusion: if timely prevention is carried out using iodine, garlic, potassium permanganate and other recommended remedies for phytophthora, it will become an almost one hundred percent guarantee of protecting the future harvest from complete elimination, and your summer cottage tomatoes will fully mature in properly treated greenhouses and on open soils.

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Late blight is a fungal disease that mainly affects various varieties of tomatoes. Brown spots appear on the stems and leaves, a faint white bloom forms on the underside of the leaf, and the green fruits turn black. This is a disease that can destroy your entire tomato crop in a few days. And this disease, especially recently, is found everywhere. Therefore, let's first consider the conditions and causes of late blight, and then the methods and methods of dealing with this disease.

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It is worth noting that blackening of tomatoes is not a sign of a specific disease, but a plant's reaction to many types of diseases and unfavorable conditions for growth and ripening. Blackening of tomatoes at the ripening stage can also cause ordinary rot, dry soil or excess moisture, excess or lack of fertilizers, various plant pests and other causes. But still the most common cause is late blight disease.

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The name of late blight comes from the name of the causative agent of this disease of the same name - the fungus Phytophthora infestans. It translates as "destroying plant", and fully corresponds to emu, destroying the organism of the plant into which it falls. And late blight infects not only tomatoes, but also other plants of the Solanaceae family, although it also does not spare strawberries, castor oil plants, and buckwheat. Tomatoes are close relatives of eggplants and potatoes, which, after tomatoes, are most susceptible to the destructive effect of late blight. Therefore, it is not advisable to plant these vegetables in close proximity to each other.

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How to treat tomatoes from late blight?

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Both prophylactic and therapeutic treatments should be carried out in dry and calm weather, and the number of chemical treatments directly depends on the weather conditions of the season. If the summer period is full of rain, spraying should be done as often as possible (about five times per summer). Constant feeding of tomatoes with means that strengthen the plant's immunity will be very effective in the fight against late blight.

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There are both folk remedies and biologically active drugs for phytophthora.

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Infusion of garlic with potassium permanganate from late blight

100 grams of garlic (you can take onions, and arrows, and leaves) are crushed in a meat grinder, poured into a glass of water and infused for 24 hours. Then it is filtered, diluted with 10 liters of water and 1 gram of potassium permanganate is added.

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The spores of the fungus are killed by garlic. The first spraying should be carried out before the formation of the ovary, the second - 10 days after the first. Then, if you spray the tomato bushes with garlic infusion every 12-15 days, the result will be

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Milk serum from late blight

Serum from sour milk is diluted with water in equal parts. Starting from the first days of July, you can spray tomatoes with milk whey every day. Preventive agent.

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Milk with iodine

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In 10 liters of water, dissolve 1 liter of skim milk and add 15-20 drops of iodine. Tomatoes must be sprayed with this remedy every two weeks.

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Ash from late blight

A week after planting the seedlings, all the aisles are powdered with ash before watering. The procedure is repeated when fruits begin to set.

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Infusion of rotten straw or hay

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One kilogram of rotten hay is poured with 10 liters of water, a handful of urea is added and left to infuse for 3-4 days. The strained infusion is sprayed with tomatoes in 1.5-2 weeks.

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Yeast from late blight

In 10 liters of water, 100 grams of yeast are diluted and tomatoes are watered at the first sign of late blight.

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Table salt from phytophthora

1 glass of salt is dissolved in 10 liters of water and large, but still green fruits are sprayed with this solution once a month.
Such treatment creates a protective film on the leaves, which will keep the infection from entering through the stomata. But! it must be remembered that this is a preventive measure, not a treatment, so first carefully examine the bush and remove the already damaged leaves!

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A solution of copper sulfate from late blight

For 10 liters of water, take 2 tablespoons of copper sulfate and process the plants once before flowering.

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Calcium nitrate solution from phytophthora

Calcium nitrate 1 tablespoon in 10 liters of water. The same solution can be sprayed over the leaves.

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"Fitosporin" from phytophthora

Divorced according to the instructions. Before planting, dip the seedlings in a phytosporin solution. The first spraying should be done when the first ovaries appear and then spray the plants every 10 days. In addition, you can spill the soil in the greenhouse with a solution of "Fitosporin" before planting or add the drug to irrigation water every time.

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Calcium chloride from late blight

In case of severe damage to late blight, diseased leaves must be removed and burned, and the fruits should be sprayed with a 1% solution of calcium chloride (a pharmacy sells a 10% solution of calcium chloride in bottles of 200 ml. The bottle should be dissolved in 2 liters of water). Especially carefully you need to spray the stalk, since late blight penetrates the fetus through it.

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Finally, the plants are prophylactically treated before flowering, as well as when the first signs of the disease appear. All the same, it is better to prevent the disease than to fight it later.

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Kefir spraying from late blight

Also a prophylactic agent. The first such spraying is recommended no later than 10-14 days after planting the seedlings in the ground. Then it is advisable to do this weekly. Recipe: For 10 liters of water - 1 liter of kefir, which must "ferment" within two days. Stir well. Iodine will save phytophthora

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Milk-iodine spraying from late blight

Well proven method. Moreover, everyone knows the antimicrobial properties of iodine since childhood. He will put things in order on the leaves of tomatoes and accelerate the ripening of our tomatoes. Recipe: For 10 liters of water - 1 liter of low-fat milk + 20 drops of iodine

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Polypore spraying from late blight

Such spraying can hold back the infestation of tomatoes with late blight for a long time. It is recommended to spray every 10 days in the morning in calm and preferably calm weather. Handle well at the time of fruit setting. At the first manifestations of late blight, immediately carry out additional processing. Recipe: For 1 liter of water, 100 g of mushroom. Pass the dried mushroom through a meat grinder or chop with a knife. Pour boiling water over (brew), strain after cooling.

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"Copper" piercing from late blight

A well-proven method patented by German scientists: wrapping the roots of seedlings before planting in the ground with copper wire. Our summer residents use copper wire in a different way: they pierce the tomato stem. Microdoses of copper stabilize chlorophyll, stimulate plant respiration and enhance oxidative processes. This strengthens the plant and makes it more resistant to infection. Attention! This procedure is done only when the tomato stem becomes strong! Recipe: Anneal a thin copper wire (you can clean it with sandpaper), cut into pieces of 3-4 cm. At a distance of 10 cm from the soil, make a puncture of the stem, insert a piece of wire, bend the ends down. Do not wrap around the stem !.

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Want a tomato - buy ... trichopol! from phytophthora

Or metranidazole 500 ml - process 3 times and 1 time with Bordeaux. Everyone knows what a scourge for tomato beds is late blight. According to many amateur vegetable growers, the processing of tomatoes with pharmacy trichopolum several times a season completely relieves your plantations of late blight and frees you from numerous treatments of the crop with pesticides. With a solution of 20 tablets of metranidazole, 25 mg each (or 10 tablets of 50 mg) per 10 liters of water (grind the tablets thoroughly in a small amount of water, and then dilute in 10 liters of water), spray about once every 10 days. If it rains, be sure to spray the plants again the next day. I know it’s tiring, but the tomatoes are also worth it.

Late blight is a dangerous disease of nightshade crops. The fungus that causes the disease is transferred to plants from soil, weeds, and processing tools. Tomatoes and potatoes are especially common in cool, damp weather. Do not save from phytophthora and shelter for plants. Not only the leaves of the nightshade suffer, but also the fruits and roots.

Article outline

Phytophthora and its signs

Scientists know about 100 species of fungus that causes late blight on plants. The average gardener does not need to know which pathogen caused the disease. The signs of late blight do not differ depending on the type of fungus. And the measures to combat it are the same.

It is only important to remember that the fungus is very tenacious. Therefore, you should not get carried away with some proven remedy. It is advisable to alternate between chemicals and folk methods of protecting your crop.

The first sign of late blight on tomatoes is brown spots on the leaves of plants on the back. Gradually, the leaf plate may turn yellow and dry under the influence of the vital activity of the pathogen.

Black spots appear on the stems and fruits. Gradually growing, they completely bring the fruits, or even the whole plant into disrepair.

When picking tomatoes for ripening, it is impossible to notice infected tomatoes if the signs on them have not already appeared with sufficient evidence.

But in a closed box, these fruits will go bad anyway. If you do not process the crop in time, the disease will affect the rest of the tomatoes.

To protect the harvested fruits, you can use heating in a solution of water and iodine at a temperature of 50-60 degrees:

The product is prepared from 10 liters of heated water and 10 drops of a pharmacy iodine tincture;
Tomatoes are placed in a wide container and filled with liquid for 5 minutes;
After that, you need to dry the green tomatoes and put them in boxes for ripening.

Iodine against late blight on tomatoes

Iodine, an irreplaceable chemical element for humans and plants. It affects the metabolism and contributes to the development of resistance to various infections.

Alcohol tincture of iodine is used for disinfection and prevention of diseases not only in humans, but also in various cultures.

To protect tomatoes from late blight, a kind of iodine therapy is sometimes used in the greenhouse.

Open bottles with a wide neck, or plates with the preparation, are displayed in different corners.

The alcohol solution is volatile, and together with the evaporating alcohol, iodine vapors are also present in the air. This protection is suitable for all types of greenhouses and does not affect the environment.

Minimal contact with the fruits allows them to be used for food, without the risk of poisoning. In addition, iodine contributes to the accelerated ripening of tomatoes. This means that the risk of late blight is reduced when the time for fogs and cool night weather arrives at the end of summer.

Dairy products from phytophthora

Interestingly, ordinary unpasteurized milk creates a film impermeable to the fungus on the fruits and leaves of plants. This tool is good for the prevention of late blight.

Milk contains a whole range of microelements that have a positive effect on plant development and fruit formation.

Lactic acid bacteria contained in any dairy product and affecting its sourness are quite powerful against various fungal spores.

Experts note that the acidic environment is not tolerated by the pathogen. This justifies the folk method using milk and products from it.

To spray tomato seedlings from late blight in a bucket of water (10 l), you need to dilute a glass of milk. It is advisable to use rustic cow's milk that has not been heat-treated.

To increase the antifungal qualities of a milk-based home remedy for phytophthora, it is recommended to add a teaspoon of an alcohol solution of iodine. The finished drug is sold in a pharmacy and is very inexpensive.

Tomatoes should be sprayed early in the morning or in the evening to exclude direct exposure to sunlight;
Treatments should be carried out at intervals of 2 weeks, starting from the moment of flowering.

An even more effective remedy is a solution of whey and iodine. Fermented milk product, rich in amino acids and minerals, increases the resistance of plants to the effects of a variety of infections.

The homemade preparation is suitable for the protection of tomatoes in open ground and greenhouses. The high acidity and antiseptic properties of the healing solution resist the pathogen for a long period. Treatments are carried out once every 3-4 weeks.

You can buy whey or make your own. Pasteurized milk is also suitable for this. But the shelf life of the product indicated on the package should not be long.

If milk is used, then to obtain whey it must be fermented:

You can also use the solution for watering. But to do this, change the proportions. A bucket of water will require half a liter of whey. Water at the root of 1 liter per plant, after spilling the soil with plain water.

Iodine and boric acid

Boric acid for plants can become a real immunomodulator, due to which, the susceptibility to the action of pathogens of various etiologies will decrease.

The acidic environment of the solution will help create unfavorable conditions for the growth and development of fungi and pathogenic bacteria.

In combination with iodine, boric acid becomes a very effective remedy against late blight in tomatoes.

A home remedy for protecting seedlings is already used when growing seedlings. It can also cultivate the soil before picking. The tool is effective throughout the entire period of tomato development, and can be used in open and closed ground.

To prepare a therapeutic and prophylactic solution:

Dilute boric acid in hot water at the rate of 1 teaspoon per 2 liters;
After complete dissolution of the drug, dilute the mixture with cool water, bringing the volume to 10 liters;
Add 20 drops of a pharmacy alcoholic tincture of iodine.

Use the resulting preparation immediately after preparation. Process the plants through a fine spray.

The first spraying can be done one week after the pick. Young seedlings will have time to adapt to new growing conditions and will be more susceptible to the protective agent.

Boron in the acid not only protects plants, but also provides an essential nutrient for development.

A week after planting tomatoes in the ground, you can carry out a second treatment. Further spraying is carried out once a month. And with the development of phytophthora, the periods between treatments can be reduced to 3 weeks.

Benefits of home remedies for phytophthora

The natural composition of iodine-based home remedies is safe for humans and the environment while meeting minimum protection requirements. The drugs are available and inexpensive.

For people with hypersensitivity to the components used for the preparation of protective mixtures, it is enough to use gauze bandages and rubber gloves.

Care is required when working with iodine tincture, which, if spilled on the skin, can cause minor burns.

The fruit can be eaten immediately after processing.

Kefir for tomatoes from late blight. So that the mushroom does not eat the appetizer. The process of introducing copper is carried out in stages