Knives from a circular saw drawings. Do-it-yourself circular saw blade. Creation of semi-finished products under the blade for the cutter

: manufacturing features

Want to create a unique knife? Do you need a wood chisel or a sharp blade for hunting? Making a good product with your own hands is more than real. Main. be skilled in metalworking and know what you want.

Making a knife: where to start?

Prepare everything first necessary details and tools, put them in one place. Do-it-yourself mechsaw knife. Do-it-yourself fultang knife. How to drill a fur saw. Decide which material you will be using. If you need a sharp and durable product - make a knife from a saw.

Take the workpiece. A saw blade for wood or metal is best suited for this purpose. As a material for the manufacture of the handle for the blade, use wood (any, according to your desire), textolite, plexiglass.

What tools will be needed in the process of making a knife?

To get started and make a knife from saws for metal, you will need:

file;
electric sharpener;
electric drill;
marker;
ruler;
sandpaper;
paste for polishing surfaces;
copper or aluminum for rivets.

How to make a preparation?

Let's figure out how to make a knife from a saw. Prepare the metal sheet for making the blade. Draw on it the blank of the future tool, using a marker for this purpose.

Remember that a knife is considered a melee weapon if the length of the blade exceeds 2/3 of the total length of the product. If you design a knife incorrectly from saws and it will be regarded as a cold weapon - expect punishment.

Having outlined the contour of the future product, take on the undercut form. It is important to draw the shape so that the cutting part of the future product is located in the area of the saw teeth. Due to the saw setting, if you make a butt in this place, you will have to do additional work to grind the bulge.

Things to Consider Before Getting Started

Do not start grinding a knife without practicing. Take an ordinary piece of metal and try to process it. Spoiling a piece of iron is not as scary as losing a good workpiece. You must not only regulate the pressing force when turning, but also monitor the temperature so as not to overheat the iron. Heat not only spoils the appearance of the metal. Even if outwardly it does not change, then its structure can be seriously affected: the metal will become much softer and more brittle. Knife from circular saw made of low-quality metal, you will have to sharpen more often.

To check if the iron has begun to overheat, put a couple of drops of water on the workpiece. If it immediately evaporates, rather cool the workpiece for the future blade. To avoid possible troubles associated with overheating of the metal, place a container of water near the machine and periodically cool the future knife from the saw.

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Work with a workpiece

Having formed the basis of the future knife, proceed to the most important and difficult stage works - removal of descents. The descent is the surface on the knife, gradually tapering towards the blade. The purpose of the knife directly determines the angle and width of the slopes. Therefore, choose the average value if you want to get a utility knife from saws.

Before starting work on the machine, draw the intended slopes on the metal sheet using a marker. Grind carefully, slowly, so as not to spoil the future knife. It is recommended, as in the previous step, to practice on a spare part. The slopes must be symmetrical and lie at the same angle on both sides. In this case, the blade should be undersharpened: leave an indent of about 0.25 mm.

Use sandpaper to sharpen the blade. For such purposes, sandpaper of 8-10 hardness numbers is best suited. It is better to sharpen a knife from a saw for metal on a wooden block. To prepare a makeshift sharpener, take a bar and glue sandpaper to it.

Using a large sandpaper, you will give the blade the necessary sharpness, and taking a finer one, you will sand the metal blade completely.

At the final stage of processing, polish the blade. Cover the same wooden block with felt or leather, rub with GOI paste and polish until you reach the desired effect.

How to make a knife handle

The easiest way is to glue the handle from two cut and prepared pieces of wood or plexiglass. It is much easier to make it than to fix it on the tail of a knife. How to make a knife from a saw with your own hands? Features of the manufacture of tourist knives from a circular saw blade and a saw for metal. Naturally, you can choose a simple option and tape the handle with electrical tape, but why try so hard to end up spoiling the aesthetic appearance of the knife?

And here comes the most important stage of work. Since you will have to drill in the shank of the knife, the blade can easily burst. Therefore, be vigilant and careful.

Steel. hard, but at the same time brittle material. With a uniform distribution of pressure, when the saw is in operation, it is almost impossible to break it. But with spot drilling, the pressure builds up and the metal can easily crack. Therefore, it is better to drill a hole at low machine speeds and do not forget to add oil to the drilling site. Circular table from a manual circular saw with your own hands. In this case, a screwdriver. an ideal tool for fulfilling the goal, since it has less revolutions, then the possibility of part breakage is not so high.

Having completed the previous step and having made holes in the handle, drill the same holes in the halves of the handle. Make a copper or aluminum rivet. For insurance, you can glue the area where the rivet will be with glue, but it is better if you have epoxy.

Can the process be simplified?

Masters say that the hole can be made without the use of drilling tools. The blade together with the shank is covered with a layer of varnish. Where there should be a hole, you need to clean the surface of the varnish. It is necessary to place a knife from a saw on a tree into an electrolyte solution and lower a wire with a negative charge into a container with a workpiece, and connect the positive wire to a power source, which can be used as an ordinary battery.

As a result of such an impact, a hole will be obtained in the metal, however, it will not be perfectly round, but it will definitely not work to damage the blade in this way.

Other Part Processing Methods

If for some reason you can’t make a knife out of a saw for metal, no required material. replace it. For the manufacture of the blade, an automobile spring is well suited, the metal of which is softer than that of a saw. To process such a workpiece, you do not have to use a sharpener, but you will need a metal saw to cut the shape of the blade. Since metal is easier to process, the edges of the workpiece can be adjusted with a file. It will take longer to work on making a knife in this way, because each stage of processing includes manual work.

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There are a large number of knives in stores. They have a different design, purpose, are performed using modern technologies. In addition, the materials for production can be not only metal, but also ceramics of special rigidity. Such knives are very sharp, do not need sharpening for a long time, but at the same time they are quite fragile. When a chip is formed, it is not possible to restore the previous appearance of the knife, especially at home.

The blades of the knife should be made of hardened steel so that it is comfortable to use.

In order for the knife to be pleasant to work with and at the same time convenient to cut, it must sit securely and comfortably in the hand. With a comfortable handle, you can use it for a long time. But it is not always possible to find such a knife in finished form. Then you can do it yourself. This takes into account the features of the palm, the length and shape of the cutting blade. Knives must be made of hardened steel. Therefore, homemade saw blades will fully meet the requirements.

Knife options

Homemade knives can be made from a variety of metal parts that cannot be used for their intended purpose, as they have become unusable.

Among the details of which you can select a few:

worn motorcycle connecting rods, from which you can make a set of knives of various lengths;
balloon wrenches with 1 broken end;
crutches that are used when laying rails;
circular saw blades of various diameters and thicknesses;
damaged saw blade pendulum saw.

With certain skills in forging, you can make a knife from a thick metal cable, a chain from a home assembly. A chainsaw is ideal for this. Her chain is strong enough, and a homemade knife will turn out like Damascus knives.

If the circular saw has a large disk diameter, and its damage is minimal, then two homemade knives can be obtained from it. The discs have a significant strength of the metal of manufacture, as the saw is used for various purposes for a long time.

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Materials and tools

To make a homemade knife, you will need the following equipment:

Woodworking Machine. If it is not there, then an electric jigsaw can be used to pre-cut the handle. For final polishing, sandpaper of different grain sizes is used.
Nails or better copper wire for rivets.
Wood.
Machine for grinding and sharpening. In his absence, you can use a grinder, a puncher, a high-power drill. In addition, you need nozzles or circles with which you can do these operations. One of these tools should be firmly fixed, and then work should be done.
Files with various types notches.
Marker.
Brass plate and rod, if the handle is not attached to rivets.
Epoxy adhesive.

Knives should have a comfortable handle. For her the most suitable material is wood. Most often used birch, oak bars. These rocks are the hardest, less susceptible to moisture with prolonged use. They are pleasant to the touch and beautiful texture. Since the manufacture of a knife handle does not require a large amount of source material, then for these purposes you can use 1 parquet board, a piece of board or bar. It is important that the wooden blank is not damaged, cracked and does not contain chips and other defects.

After the blade is sufficiently calcined, you need to cool it.

In order to make a knife, it is necessary to use certain grades of steel. It should be remembered that its characteristics depend on how the metal was technologically hardened. For example, with increasing hardness, the brittleness of metal products increases. Steel grades R6M5 or R3M3F2 are suitable for the knife. At the same time, a metal thickness of 2 mm will be enough.

Strength homemade knife does not depend on the thickness of the metal. It is influenced by its geometric dimensions: length, width, shape of the blade and descent. At right choice these components and accurate metal processing, obtaining an excellent knife is guaranteed. Such steel grades are used in the manufacture of discs, blades, tools such as, for example, a circular saw.

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Hacksaw blade knife

If it is decided to use a hacksaw blade as a metal blank, then it is necessary to take a blade from a pendulum saw. This saw performs work on thick metal (such as rails) and meets the requirements for rigidity and strength. The size of such paintings varies within the length / width / thickness, 400-500:30-40:2 mm. The color is determined by the type of manufacturing treatment the saw has undergone and can be black or grey.

Before starting the manufacture of a knife blade, it is necessary to check the integrity of the metal. This can be done by ear, but this requires some experience and skill. A whole canvas makes a sonorous sound, a damaged one - deaf. If it is difficult to do this by ear, then it is necessary to carefully examine the metal blank.

On a whole piece of canvas, the contour of the future knife is applied with a marker.

The blade angle should be 20 degrees.

At the same time, it should be not only a blade, but also an allowance, which will then be hidden in the handle. After that, on a metalworking machine (or a carefully fixed grinder with a circle), it is necessary to gradually and carefully remove the excess.

This should be done slowly, as the metal can heat up. To cool it down and continue working, take a bucket of water. This capacity should be enough for the workpiece to be placed completely in the water. The same machine performs the contours of the blade. It should be borne in mind that a feature of this steel is that with a sharp change in the temperature of the metal, tiny cracks can form in it. This can lead to the fact that even with a small effort, the knife breaks. Therefore, overheating of the metal during its processing should not be allowed. Particular attention should be paid to the point, because with a decrease in thickness, the metal heats up faster.

My friend and I decided to make knives from the same steel and the same shape, but I do it by hand, and he does it with power tools.

I was wondering how long it would take me to make a knife for concrete or metal using only needle files and a drill and my hands. The result made me very happy.

Step 1: Template

I tried to make the knife out of the circular saw blade as big as possible. First, cut out a template from thin cardboard, then circle it with a thin marker on the disk. If you trace the template with a regular marker, the thickness of the line when cutting out the blade of the knife can cause the contour to curve.

Step 2: Rough workpiece

Now cut out the knife diamond disc, fixed on the desktop, part with the outline of the knife. If you have not used a hacksaw before, remember that it must be positioned with teeth away from you and the blade must be well fixed. The hacksaw cuts in a straight line, so make sure that the blade is fixed correctly.

Step 3: Making auxiliary cuts

To make it easier to cut a curved outline, make several auxiliary perpendicular cuts along the entire length of the bend, up to the handle. Then cut the resulting comb with a hacksaw, you need to hold it at a slight angle.

Step 4: Finishing the workpiece with a needle file

To bring the workpiece to the desired shape, I took a piece of board 5x10 cm and pressed the workpiece against it with a clamp. This allows you to safely process the workpiece with a needle file, as it is securely fastened. It is convenient to process places with a needle file that require precise and careful movements. The butt has a slight bend, it can be checked with the flat side of the needle file. If the butt is straight, you will immediately see it.

Step 5: Fine-Tuning the Shape

To bring the shape of the knife to the drawn one, I used several different needle files. The blank looks like an almost finished knife, the burrs are almost invisible. If you notice gaps somewhere, update the drawn outline with a marker and continue grinding until the knife outline matches the drawing. There are no photos of grinding, but I did it: I started with an abrasive of 150 grit, gradually changing to 220 grit.

Step 6: Drill holes

Mark and drill holes for the studs.

Step 7: Mark the Middle of the Blade

With a marker we mark the length of the knife blade from the circular saw. Then take a drill of the same number as the thickness of the blade and put it on the blade - this is how you determine the middle line. Leave a scratch with a drill along the entire length (not very visible in the photo). This line will help you a lot when sanding your trigger so that the blade doesn't wave or skew to one side.

Step 8: Run the Blade Down

To mark the descent, I used a rasp - and I realized that by hand I couldn’t do it evenly. I decided to make a smoother angle of descent and began to remove metal from the edge to the edge. Since I have no experience at all, I proceeded very carefully. When you have descended at the right angle, sand the entire workpiece with 220 grit sandpaper.

Step 9: Finished Blade

The photo shows a blank with a finished shape and sanded, ready for hardening.

Step 10: Tempering the blade

First I want to say that I do not recommend flame hardening, although many people say that they did it and everything is fine. I consider this method dangerous, so I tempered the knife in my mini-forge. If you do not have one, then you can harden the workpiece to order. My actions with the mini-forge: first I made a fire, then, using a hair dryer with a pipe put on it, I heated the coals to red, and placed the workpiece in the flame. When it got hot enough to no longer magnetize, I cooled it in peanut butter. The last photo shows the knife after hardening.

Step 11: Release the Metal

Now you need to release the metal. To do this, first clean the knife blank from the layer of scale formed during hardening. We heat the oven to 190 ° C, and place the knife blank there for one hour. After an hour, turn off the oven and leave to cool without opening the door.

As soon as the workpiece has cooled to such a temperature that it can be picked up, remove the knife workpiece. After tempering, the metal acquired a light or light bronze hue. Now sand the workpiece, starting with 220 grit sandpaper and gradually changing the grit to 400 grit. I grinded the workpiece in one direction - from the handle to the point, this gave the metal surface a uniform look.

Step 12: Start Making the Pen

Circle the outline of the workpiece with a felt-tip pen on the rail. Compressing the rail and a piece of board 5x10 cm with clamps, I sawed off two pieces, 6 mm thick each (although it was possible not to do this, but to cut the blanks directly from the whole rail). Then I sawed out the two halves of the handle.

Step 13: Finishing the Handle

We carefully sand those sides of the wooden parts of the handle that will be glued to the metal. In order for the halves of the handle to stick close to the metal, they must be as even as possible, there should be no gaps or pockets between the metal and the wood. At the same stage, I finally chose the shape of the handle.

On one part of the rail, we circle the shank of the knife blank, then cut out the handle blank with a jigsaw. We circle this blank with a marker on another rail and also cut it out. So you get two almost identical halves of the handle. In the last photo, fitting blanks to the knife shank to make sure that the entire shank will be covered with wood.

Step 14: Forming the Guard

Now we grind again and bring the shape. It is very important to remove the guard (bolster) at this stage, because later, after gluing the halves of the handle, it will be very difficult to approach it, damage will definitely remain on the metal. Grind the guard, changing the number of sandpaper to 800 grit, it must be brought to the final finished form before attaching the handle.

Step 15: Drill Holes

Now start drilling holes for the studs. To do this, drill one hole, and insert a drill of the same number as the one you drilled into it. This is necessary so that the shank does not accidentally move relative to the wooden workpiece when drilling the second hole. We also drill holes in the second wooden handle blank.

Step 16: Making the Hairpins

We saw off two pieces from a 5 mm stainless steel bar, we will make studs from them. Before applying glue, cover the blade with a protective coating (I used electrical tape). Wipe the surfaces of all parts to be bonded with acetone or alcohol to remove dust and debris, and to degrease them.

Step 17: Glue the Handle

When all the parts were dry from cleaning, I mixed the epoxy and applied it generously to the wooden parts of the handle and to the studs. Then we clamp the handle with clamps and leave it for a day.

Very useful project With detailed video the process of making a knife from a web of old circular discs. All stages of manufacturing are present here, including hardening and sharpening. I especially liked the horn from an ordinary hair dryer. The persistence of the author is surprising - the entire manufacturing process was carried out without the use of electrical tools. Well, he had this fantasy. On the other hand, a good experience. With a certain amount of perseverance, such a knife can be made practically “on the knee”.

My friend and fellow YouTuber wanted to make a joint video. We bounced around some ideas and eventually decided to shoot ourselves in knife making. The catch was that I would do it by hand (except for the drill and oven) and he would do it with power tools. We both started out with the same blade, the same steel, but the rest of the design aesthetic was left up to us. I also wanted to do this because I read many times all you have to do with a knife a few files and a drill or something like that. I was wondering how long it would take me to make a knife with my hands and to see if I could do it without cheating and using my tools. So I realized that this is a great opportunity to try it. It was fun to build, took much longer than I expected, and gave me a whole new appreciation for people who make knives entirely by hand. Overall I'm very happy with how the knife turned out and I hope it helps someone out there that wants to give it a try.

Step 1:

I tried to increase the size of the knife with the designs that are used for the saw as much as possible. I made a paper template using card stock, which is just a heavier weight paper so I could easily trace the paper template onto the saw blade. I used a thin tip marker, although this is a small thing in my opinion, it is very important. Fine marker tip leaves fine lines to cut or file too unlike conventional marker tip. The cut line can become ambiguous if it's too wide, which can affect the overall shape and lead to breaks in shape and more problems down the road.

Step 2:

With the saw blade clamped onto the worktable I started by cutting out the rough shape of the blade using straight line segments. If you have never used a hacksaw, first make sure the blade is correct, the direction of the teeth should be forward or away from your body. The cuts are on the cut so make sure to set the blade correctly.

Step 3:

In order to cut out the curved parts of the handle, I made several perpendicular cuts in the relief along the entire length of the curved part of the handle. Then, using a hacksaw at a slight angle, I would cut out a small section from each. Reset reduction make it easier to follow the curve as you cut.

Step 4:

I needed to refine the shape of the blade, so I attached a 2x4 piece of crowbar to my workbench and clamped the blade into a 2x4. This allowed me to work forms from my file, and the blade was nice and safe. I also used the file to evaluate what areas are required extra work. The spine design was slightly tilted and I could use the flat part of the file to check progress on the curve. If the spine has a flat spot it will be visible.

Step 5:

I used multiple files to get the shape or as close to the line as possible. At this point, it starts to look more like a knife and the flaws are harder to spot by eye. If I notice that a zone needs work, I would use the marker to re-draw the shape and then file with that new line. It served as a guide, so I'm not in favor of correct and mess up the design. The last picture of the blade after it has been filed and sanded down. I don't have any photos of me sanding the blade, this is the last step to shaping that removes any file marks. I would start with 150 grit and work my way up to 220.

Step 6:

I originally planned to dip with a nice high bevel, but my modest skills weren't up to the challenge. The saw blade is pretty thin material and I don't think I can extend the blade to reach the takedown line and the slope I was after. More on this subject later. At this point I also measured the placement of the pin center and punched and then drilled the holes with my drill.

Step 7:

Using a marker, I marked the entire length of the blade. Then, using a drill with the same thickness as the blade I scored a line down the center of the blade. The last picture shows, on the line it is not visible well in the picture, but it is there. This line will come in handy when filing a blade tilt, it will keep me from crooked and lopsided edges.

Step 8:

I used the bastard file to define the bevel just then I realized that I didn't have the skills to make a nice dip line by hand. So I chose a smoother angle and filed the working blade my way from edge to spine. I'm new to this and inexperienced, so I took the more conservative route in terms of pickup. Once I was happy with the bevel, I sanded the entire blade to 220 grit.

Step 9:

Here is the blade after all shaping, filing and sanding ready for heat treatment.

Step 10:

Before I leave I would like to say that while you can heat treat a blade with an open wood burning fireplace I personally don't recommend it. This is one of those cases where I really don't feel safe doing the operation. And I wasn't sure about the heat it took so I ended up using my mini forge (here's my Instructable on how I made my mini forge http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to- Make-a-Mini-Forge/) to heat instead of healing the blade. If you don't have a mini forge you can actually send your blades from their heat treatment. There are several companies that offer this service for a fee, of course. With that said, I'll explain my setup. I built a fire. Then, using a hair dryer with a tube attached to it to act like bellows, I turn on the hair dryer and eat the coals red hot. It does not take a lot of time. I put the blade on the fire and warm it up until it was magnetic and then quenched it in a container of peanut butter. The last peak shows what the blade looks like after hardening. While it is possible, open flame heat treatment is not recommended.

Step 11:

Now it's time to harden the blade, but first I sanded all the scales from quenching. Then in my oven I set the temperature to 375 degrees Fahrenheit (in my oven, setting it to 375 degrees Fahrenheit will reach 400 degrees Fahrenheit). degrees Fahrenheit) and placed the blade in the oven for 1 hour. At the end of 1 hour I turned off the oven and let the blade spin inside the closed oven door until it was cool enough to process. You can see the blonde-ish or light bronze-ish color that the blade is obtained after hardening. After tempering I sand the blade to clean it using 220 grit and work up to 400 grit. For the last rice I use a block of wood with 400 grit sandpaper wrapped around it and sand from the handle to the tip of the spatula in one direction only. This leaves a uniform sanding line on the blade.

Step 12:

Using the blade as a template, I trace the shape's handles onto the wood. This piece of walnut was given to me by one of my neighbors, a piece was cut off which he ground down. Here again using my 2x4 piece of crowbar and clamps I sawed two 1/4 thick pieces. In my excitement, I threw myself into wood cutting, if I took some time to think about my operation I could do it easily and with the best possible results. My first mistake was to cut off the waste material. I could use this material to pinch a piece down and then cut out two handles. Here again is my inexperience, in this case with hand tools, raises its ugly head. I managed to make two useful pen pieces, but I'm sure I worked a lot harder than smarter to make them.

Step 13:

In order for the handles to attach to the blade with a snug fit I made sure to sand one side of each handle on as flat a level surface as possible and sandpaper. This will ensure that there are no gaps after gluing. At this point I decided what the handle shape would be and drew a reference line on the blade to make sure I liked it. appearance. I then traced the blade handle back into the woods. Using a jigsaw I rough shape on one handle and then take the handle and track it on the other handle. This will ensure that they are roughly the same shape that will come in handy when gluing on the handles. The last peak is a test fit to make sure they cover all the tang.

Step 14:

Time for more polishing and refining the shape. It is important at this point to finalize the shape to support the section, or rather the top of the handle, because once it is glued to the knife, it will not be easily accessible. And any further work on this area after gluing can lead to scratches on the blade. So I sanded down to 800 with sandpaper and made sure the special section was finished in terms of sanding and finishing.

Step 15:

When drilling dowel holes through wood, I made sure after the first hole was drilled that I used a bit the same diameter as the hole to index that hole. In other words, this keeps the blade from moving or getting mixed up when drilling another hole. I used the same indexing process for the opposite side to make sure all the holes would line up when inserting the pins.

Step 16:

I used a 3/16 inch stainless steel pin that I cut from a stainless steel rod. Before sealing the mask blade and clean everything with acetone or alcohol to remove any dirt, dust or oil.

Step 17:

After everything is dry from cleaning. I mixed it up epoxy resin and slathered by a generous amount on pens and pins. Then I clamped everything together and let it cure for 24 hours.

Step 18:

Once the resin has cured I cut off the pins with a hacksaw. Then, with the help of a rasp, I began the shape and contour of the handle.